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Velocitek Prism Compass

$ 600.00

The Prism is lightweight pro racing compass. Class legal anywhere an electronic compass is legal, officially legal in the Laser Class in 2018, the Prism provides superior accuracy, and a massive display all in an ultralight, compact package.

Description

The Prism is a simple pro racing compass made in the USA. Class legal anywhere an electronic compass is legal, officially legal in the Laser Class since 2018, the Prism provides superior accuracy, and a massive display all in an ultralight, compact package.

What’s Included:

• Velocitek Prism
• Quick Start Guide
• EVA storage case

Tech Specs:

• 4.8oz / 137 g
• Heading Repeatability: ±0.5°
• Display Update Rate: 4Hz (four times a second)
• Water Resistance: Complete immersion for 30 min. at 3m / 10ft (IPX8)
• Display: 29.8mm / 1.1” digit height 250° viewing cone
• Battery: 600mA
• Warranty:  Two years

Is the Prism GPS based?

No. The Prism is strictly a magnetic compass.

Does the Prism have a timer?

No. The Prism does not have a timer. We wanted to make the easiest electronic compass to use and the input we received from pros and Olympians in developing the Prism was that a timer was OK to leave out for two reasons. 1) Most sailors wear a watch or mount one on the mast or boom. 2) Having to switch from timer to compass and back to timer in pre-start to take a wind shot is really inconvenient on a boat with 1 – 3 crew.

Does the Prism have a backlight?

No. The Prism does not have a backlight.

You may also like…

Velocitek Prism Deck Bracket

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Laser Sailing Class Rules Update Compasses

Following a class vote, it was recently announced that all four proposed rule changes had been approved.  The new laser sailing class rules allow for:

Electronic digital compass

A digital compass may be mounted on the boat, and an additional one may be wrist-mounted. It may be integrated with a timing device. The compass must use only magnetic input and cannot be able to display or calculate speed, weather or position information. This means no GPS or weather input functionality is permitted.

There are a few options on the market such as :

Nautalytics

Raymarine Tacktick

Boat or Body Mounted Camera

A sailor may now mount a camera on the bot or their person. While this has been done in training very often it is now permitted in racing. This could be useful in protest situations, however, remember that the rules specify that a jury should take video and images with a grain of salt as depth perception and angles may not be portrayed correctly.

Shock Chord Inhaul

There are no longer restrictions on the attachment points of the shock cord inhaul system for your outhaul.

Adjustable Hiking Strap

It is now possible to add a floating cleat and a turning point to the hiking strap support line. This could make for more reliable adjustments to the hiking strap system. It remains to be seen what the most popular rigging method will be! Share with us your thoughts in the comments.

Will you be changing any of your systems?

Full laser sailing class rules-language:   http://www.laser.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1183:vote-on-2017-ilca-rules-changes&catid=21:official&Itemid=250

• laser rigging
• laser rules
• laser sailing class rules

Colin Gowland

Colin has been a coach and instructional designer since 2002. He co-owns the International Sailing Academy and coaches both on the water, and online, specializing in the Laser / ILCA dinghy.

One Response to “Laser Sailing Class Rules Update Compasses”

October 25, 2019 at 2:31 pm , Laser Sailing: Avoid Capsizing/Deathrolling Downwind said:

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Electronic Compasses – which one is right for you?

• by Max Hunt
• September 28, 2018

Updated November 2023.

When the ILCA Rule 22 change came into effect in 2018 allowing the use of electronic compasses, the Raymarine MicroCompass (more commonly known as the ‘TackTick’) quickly became the default choice amongst most of the top sailors – driven in part by the fact that when the rule change came into effect it was, alongside the Nautalytics simple compass, the only choice. Around a year later the Velocitek PRISM was released – a state of the art compass .  All three of these compasses are ILCA Rule 22 approved.

How do you decide between these compasses? This article looks at the factors involved, but first why choose an electronic compass? You only have to look at Laser medal race videos to see that the vast majority of the top sailors have moved from analogue to electronic. Electronic compasses are smaller, lighter, but it is the ease of reading that is the main reason – the digital display is much clearer than the graduations on an analogue compass, isn’t subject to the variation dependent upon viewing angle, and is faster to respond to heading change. All these lead to electronic compasses having greater useable accuracy which make it far easier to see heading changes.

So, what are the factors that need to be considered in deciding which electronic compass is right for you?

MODE   – The first and maybe the most important factor is whether you want to use your compass in tactical or heading mode. The vast majority of analogue compasses used on the Laser had a tactical scale (normally with a secondary 0-360 scale), which divided up the 360 deg scale into 20 or 24 segments. This in theory, gives you the same or similar number on either upwind tack meaning that it easier to remember – for example 2 on starboard/2 on port (for the Plastimo), or 2/12 (for the Silva/Nexus). The secondary 0-360 scale helped with head to wind and line bias. These analogue compasses assumed an 90 degree angle between tacks. In theory fine, but the tacking angle on the Laser is dependent on the wind strength, is affected by wave skew and any ‘tide wind’ generated by current flow. So your tacking angle may not be 90 degrees and may be also skewed relative to the true wind direction from one tack to the other.

The TackTick is the only one of the three ILCA approved electronic compasses to offer a tactical mode, and the tacking angle can be adjusted on the water to get the same numbers on each tack. However, it still assumes a constant angle from one tack to the other, so if there is skew from one tack to the other the numbers displayed won’t reflect the true wind direction. In tactical mode the sensitivity can be adjusted to 1, 2, 5 or 10 degrees, with most sailors choosing 5 degrees to avoid being distracted by minor shifts.

Some top sailors use the TackTick in tactical mode and others in heading mode. However, I believe that the complexity of using tactical mode simply and effectively, especially when electronic compasses offer greater useable accuracy, has resulted in more sailors moving from tactical mode to heading mode.

Heading mode displays the bearing that the boat is travelling on, so the numbers on one tack are very different from the other and as a result there are two ranges of numbers to remember (or write on the boom)! All three compasses offer heading mode. One potential downside of heading mode on all three compasses is that they display 1 degree heading changes which means that in reality the display is changing a lot. You need to make sure that you are not looking at the compass too much! The PRISM compass does have an adjustable damping rate to help this aspect – the greater the damping value the smoother the heading change will be, as it slows down the response to a change in heading.

TIMER   – The rule change also allowed the use of a countdown timer to be integrated with the compass. This is a feature that is included in the TackTick and Nautalytics compass. The timer on the Nautalytics is simple to use, with a sync function that syncs down to the next minute like most sailing watches. However you may find using the timer mode on the TackTick confusing as the sync function works differently (it syncs to the nearest minute, so it may sync up rather than down). Some people use the timer functions on these two compasses but when the timer is running you can’t see heading information unless you manually change modes. When the timer reaches zero the TackTick compass reverts to the tactical or heading mode that you were in. The Nautalytics reverts to its heading mode.

DISPLAY   – The size and readability of the display is another important factor. The relatively small display on the TackTick probably reflects the age of the design. The viewing angle is also quite small meaning that if you are either sitting in the cockpit in very light airs and looking down, or doing a head to wind and looking straight at the compass from the middle of the cockpit, you will find it difficult to read. The display on the PRISM is both larger and has a far better viewing angle and a non-reflective coating. The single very large display on the Nautalytics is probably the clearest, but it is a large compass in comparison with the lower profile, sleeker TackTick and PRISM.

If you sail using polarised sunglasses the display on the TackTick is like a lot of LCD’s, unreadable. Only the PRISM and Nautalytics are compatible with polarised glasses.

BATTERIES   – All three compasses have inbuilt batteries recharged via solar cells. The Nautalytics batteries are cost effectively replaceable. The earlier PRISM compasses had replaceable batteries.  From early 2021 to mid 2023 PRISM compasses were totally sealed and batteries are not replaceable.  The latest generation of PRISM compasses have a USB charging port as a backup in case solar charging hasn't been sufficient to keep the battery charged or you have had it stored away for months.

MOUNTING   – From a mounting perspective, for the popular TackTick there are a number of mountings available from third party manufacturers such as CarbonParts. For the PRISM mountings are available from CarbonParts and Velocitek. For the Nautalytics the manufacturer offers a mounting. Most sailors choose to mount the compass as far forward as possible without fouling the vang fitting or deck blocks, with the control lines running through the mounting so that if it does become dislodged during sailing the compass stays on the boat! If you want to mount it in front of the mast, attach a security line or, if you run your centreboard elastic to the bow eye, pass that through the mount. Most mounts attach using 3M DualLock – best described as a sort of industrial strength Velcro – it really works.

So how do you choose between these three electronic compasses?

• If you want tactical mode the answer is the TackTick as it is the only one to offer that mode of operation.
• If you want to use an inbuilt countdown timer, the choice is between the TackTick and the Nautalytics.
• If you want pure simplicity, with only heading mode, the PRISM is the compass to go for. There are no buttons other than on/off, so no worry about what mode you have set it in or what tacking angle you should have set it at.  Having used both TackTick and Nautalytics, I quickly moved to the PRISM compass and love it.

About Southeast Sailboats… Southeast Sailboats is a leading supplier of world class control line systems and electronic compass / mountings for the ILCA/Laser. We supply the PRISM and TackTick ILCA Rule 22 compasses and associated mountings and we deliver worldwide.

[email protected]

(+44) 07880 500233

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International Laser Class Association

One Boat, One Sailor, One Design.

Class Rules

In this section you will find the ILCA Class Rules, covered in By-Law 1 of the ILCA Constitution.

You can either download the ILCA Class Rules as a pdf or browse the rules through this website, using the tabs below to navigate between sections of the guide.

• History contains information about changes to class rules.
• Part One explains the Fundamental Class Rule which covers the philosophy and any item not specifically written into the rules.
• Part Two tells you what you must do to have a Class legal boat. This includes the Measurement Diagrams .
• Part Three details a few optional changes and additions you can make.
• Part Four details options for the ILCA 6 (Radial) and the ILCA 4 (4.7) rigs
• Part Five explains what kind of approval is required to make changes to the Class Rules
• Interpretations list official interpretations of certain Class Rules

The principle of the ILCA Class Rules is that no changes to the boat are allowed unless they are specifically permitted by the class rules. The English text of the Class Rules shall govern.

The Class Rules below are valid from 21st August 2023. Cancels all previous rules and interpretations.

Note: The class rules published on this website are for convenient access. If there are any discrepancies between the rules shown here and the rules as published in the most recent Handbook of the International Laser Class Association, the text of the Handbook applies.

• Interpretations

HISTORY of Rule Changes:

21st August 2023:

Rule 3(d)x modified to remove photographs and 3(d)x.d) was added to allow replacement of certain specified parts.

13th February 2023:

Rule 24 modified to allow heat shrink tubing.

01 January 2020:

Definition of Builder modified to read: “A Builder is a manufacturer that is manufacturing the hull, equipment, fittings, spars, sails and battens in strict adherence to the Construction Manual, and has been approved as a Builder by each of World Sailing and the International Laser Class Association.”

Other class rules affected by this rule change were modified to be consistent with the amended definition of Builder.

01 January 2019:

Part One modified to clarify that all sails used in competition shall have an ILCA supplied sail button to be class legal. (previous interpretation.)

Rule 3(b)i modified to remove the restriction on the use of aramid fibre rope for control lines. (previous interpretation)

Rule 3(b)ii modified to allow for local variation in thickness of control lines that is not specifically restricted to tapering. (previous interpretation)

Rule 3(b)vi modified to enable clam cleats to include a through hole attachment point. (previous interpretation)

Rule 19(a) modified to clarify that mast step abrasion tubes or collars may be in separate pieces. (previous interpretation)

Rule 31 modified to shorten the rule voting process from six months to one month and removing “votes to be sent by post”.

01 January 2018:

Rule 22 Compasses, Electronic Equipment and Timing Devices modified to allow use of digital compasses that are not GPS enabled.

New Rule 28 Added to allow boat or body mounted cameras.

Rule 3(f)vi modifed to remove restriction on the attachment points of the shock cord inhaul.

Rule 17(c) modified to allow for the addition of one cleat and one turning point in the hiking strap support line that are not attached to the hull or hiking strap.

01 January 2016: 

Rule 4(f) National Letters: updated wording with instructions for positioning of letters on new MKII sail.

01 February 2015: 

Rule 3(h)i sentence added: A splice that does not extend through the nearest traveller eye may be used at the non-free end.

Rule 4 new rule added. 4(h) NATIONAL FLAG .  If required by the Notice of Race and the Sailing Instructions, a national flag with a nominal size of 567 x 337 mm shall be applied to both sides of the mainsail. For the Standard and Radial sails, flags shall be positioned such that the aft edge of the flag is within 100 and 150 mm of the leech and between the sail numbers and the batten pocket below the sail numbers. The flag shall be approximately parallel with the sail numbers and letters and shall not touch the numbers. For the 4.7 sail, the flag shall be positioned within 100 and 150 mm of the leech but below and within 50 mm of the bottom batten pocket. The flag shall be printed on separate material applied to the sail. The use of permanent ink pens or similar to make a national flag is forbidden. The national flag shall correspond to the national letters.

Rule 10 modified: Advertising, including competitor advertising, is permitted in accordance with World Sailing Regulation 20 – Advertising code; except that the sail window shall be kept free of advertising or other graphic material.

Rule 14(d) sentence added: Vertical cuts are allowed in the material to allow the material to conform to the shape of the centreboard case.

Rule 15 new rule added. 15(k): Padding of uniform thickness may be used in the gap between the rudder blade and rudder head. This padding must cover completely the part of the rudder blade that comes in contact with the rudder head. The thickness of the rudder blade plus the padding must not exceed 20.3mm.

Rule 18 new rule added. 18(c): Traveller and Boom mounted mainsheet blocks may be replaced with the “Builder Supplied” blocks shown in the photo.

Rule 26(c) modified: Preventative maintenance includes the replacement of fasteners (screws, bolts, nuts, washers and rivets) provided the replacement does not alter the function of the fitting. The tolerances of the Measurement Diagrams shall not be used to alter the position of fittings. In addition the reversing of spars is permitted if the fittings are replaced in accordance with the Measurement Diagrams. Any holes in the top section of the mast shall be permanently sealed with a rivet or similar to maintain the buoyancy of the mast.

23 April 2013: 

Fundamental Rule modified: Clarification that Lasers shall be built by World Sailing and ILCA approved manufacturers in adherence to the Construction Manual.

Definition of Builder modified: Modified to conform to current agreements with World Sailing.

1 January 2012:

Rule 3(c)i modified: The mainsheet shall be a single line, and be attached to the becket of the aft boom block, and then passed through the traveller block, the aft boom block, boom eye strap, forward boom block and the mainsheet block. After the mainsheet block it shall be knotted, or tied, so that the end of the mainsheet cannot pull through the mainsheet block. The mainsheet shall not be controlled aft of the forward boom block except to facilitate a tack or gybe.

Rule 3(c)ii modified: The tail of the mainsheet may also be knotted or tied to either the base of the mainsheet block, the hiking strap, the hiking strap support line, or the hiking strap shock cord. This option, if used, satisfies the knotting requirement in 3(c)i.

Rule 22 modified: Compass, Electronic Equipment and Timing Devices

• One compass is permitted mounted on any part of the deck or the cockpit, provided that the hull cavity is not pierced by anything other than the fasteners. Compasses shall not be fitted to inspection ports. Electronic and digital compasses are prohibited (see exception in part d).
• Any use of electronic equipment not specifically allowed in the rules is prohibited unless modified in the sailing instructions.
• Timing devices are permitted.
• A timing device that includes an electronic compass is permitted as long as it is worn on the wrist.

Rule 14(f) modified: A tie line or shock cord shall be attached to the small hole in the upper forward corner of the centreboard, and any of the bow eye, the cunningham fairlead, the “Builder Supplied” deck block fitting and the mast to prevent loss of the centreboard in event of a capsize. The tie line or shock cord may be looped around the bow, but shall not be attached to the gunwale. Attachment can be by knots or loops in the shock cord, and/or tie lines, shackles, clips, hooks or eyes. When the shock cord is attached to the bow eye it may also pass through an attachment to the “Builder Supplied” deck block fitting or the cunningham fairlead.

Rule 28 and Rule 29 modified: For the purposes of RRS 43.1(b) the maximum total weight of competitors clothing and equipment shall be 9Kg for Radial and 8Kg for 4.7

1 January 2011:

Rule 3(e)ii modified: The cunningham control line shall be securely attached to any of the mast, gooseneck, mast tang, swivel or shackle that may be used to attach the vang cleat block to the mast tang, the cunningham attachment point on the “Builder Supplied” vang cleating fitting or the becket of an optional becket block fixed on the cunningham attachment point on the “Builder Supplied” vang. Rule 3(f)vi modified: A shock cord for use as an inhaul may be attached between the outhaul cleat and clew of the sail, the clew tie down, the optional block at the clew, the quick release system or through the clew of the sail and to an optional block in the primary control line.

Sentence added to Rule 3(g)i: An additional outhaul extension tie line may be added between the clew of the sail and the outhaul or the quick release system.

Rule 21 modified: Clips, ties or bags to stow or secure safety or other equipment may be used on the deck, in the cockpit, around the mast or boom.

Rule 24 modified: Tape and Line. The use of flexible adhesive tape or similar or line is permitted to secure shackle pins and clips, and to bind sheets, control lines and rigging, except that tape or line shall not be used to construct new fittings or modify the function of existing fittings.

New Rule 27: The sail may be reefed by rolling the sail around the mast 1 or 2 times.

The boat is a strict one-design dinghy where the true test, when raced, is between helmspersons and not boats and equipment.

Fundamental Rule

The boat shall be raced in accordance with these Rules, with only the hull, equipment, fittings, spars, sail and battens manufactured by a World Sailing and International Laser Class Association (ILCA) approved builder in strict adherence to the design specification (known as the Construction Manual) which is registered with World Sailing.

No addition or alteration may be made to the hull form, construction, equipment, type of equipment, placing of equipment, fittings, type of fittings, placing of fittings, spars, sail and battens as supplied by the builder except when such an alteration or change is specifically authorised by Parts 2 or 3 of these Rules.

Hull Identification

All boats shall have an identification number moulded into the deck under the bow eye or into the transom, which shall be either the sail number or a unique production number.

Boats with sail numbers from 148200 shall display a unique World Sailing Building Plaque that has been purchased by the builder from the International Laser Class Association. The plaque shall display the sail number of the boat issued by the International Laser Class Association and shall be permanently fixed in the rear of the cockpit by the builder.

Sail Identification

Sails manufactured after 1 January 2001 shall have attached near the tack of the sail an ILCA authorized sailmaker button purchased from the International Laser Class Association. Standard MKII sails shall have orange buttons and Radial, 4.7 and Standard MKI (cross-cut) sails shall have red buttons.

Definition of Builder

A Builder is a manufacturer that is manufacturing the hull, equipment, fittings, spars, sails and battens in strict adherence to the Construction Manual, and has been approved as a Builder by each of World Sailing and the International Laser Class Association.

1. Measurement Diagrams The Measurement Diagrams are part of these Rules.

The spars, sails, battens, centreboard, rudder, and the placing of fittings and equipment shall conform to the Measurement Diagrams . The measurement tolerances are intended to allow for necessary manufacturing tolerances and shall not be used to alter the design.

2. Measurement In the case of a dispute alleging non-compliance with the Construction Manual, the matter, together with any relevant information, shall be referred to the Chief Measurer of the International Laser Class Association at the International Office who shall give a final ruling in consultation with a World Sailing Technical Officer.

In the case of a measurement dispute on the hull, spars, sail, battens, centreboard and rudder, rigging, type of fittings and equipment and the placing of same not explicitly covered by these Rules, Measurement Diagrams and Measurement By-Laws the following procedure shall be adopted:

A sample of 10 other boats shall be taken and measured using identical techniques. The dimensions of the disputed boat shall be equal to, or between the maximum and minimum dimensions obtained from these 10 boats. If the boat in question is outside these dimensions the matter, together with any relevant information, shall be referred to the Chief Measurer of the International Laser Class Association at the International Office, who shall give a final ruling. If any of the dimensions of the sample are considered to be unusual, all relevant information shall be referred by the Class Association to World Sailing.

3. Control Systems, Control Lines and Fittings

• The Cunningham, outhaul, vang, traveller and mainsheet are the Control Line Systems. The cunningham, outhaul and vang Control Line Systems may include more than one Control Line as allowed in Rules 3(d)i, 3(e)i and 3(f)i.Each Control Line shall be a single piece of uniform thickness and material. A line is a Control Line if any of the line moves along its axis during adjustment of the Control Line System. A line that exclusively attaches items together is a Tie Line.
• For the purpose of these definitions, the Standard Fittings are the: Plastic cunningham fairlead Plastic cunningham clam cleat Mainsheet block Plastic outhaul clam cleat Plastic outhaul fairlead Vang cleat block Vang key block Vang key Plastic traveller fairleads Plastic traveller clam cleat
• An “Optional” fitting is a fitting or block that replaces, or is additional to, a Standard Fitting as allowed by these Rules.
• A “Builder Supplied” fitting replaces a Standard Fitting, and is supplied only by the Builder, as allowed by these Rules.
• A “Turning Point” is a sheave (pulley) in a block, a rope loop, a rope loop reinforced with a thimble, the outhaul fairlead, a shackle, part of a fitting, sail cringle, mast or boom around which a moving Control Line passes, except that the cunningham fairlead, the “Optional” blocks attached to the “Builder Supplied” deck block fitting, the cunningham clam cleat, and the “Optional” cam cleats attached to the “Builder Supplied” deck cleat base will not be counted as “Turning Points” in Rules 3(e)i and 3(f)i.
• When an “Optional” block, or shock cord is attached to a fitting, line, mast, boom or the sail, it may be attached either with or without a shackle, clips, balls, hooks and/or a tie line.
• Control lines shall be natural or synthetic rope.
• In a control line system where more than one control line is permitted, lines of different diameter shall not be joined together.
• “Optional” blocks allowed in cunningham, vang or outhaul control systems, shall have sheaves of diameter not less than 15 mm and not more than 30 mm. Thimbles allowed to reinforce rope loops used as “Turning Points” in the cunningham, vang and outhaul control line systems shall not exceed 40mm in length.
• Only single or double “Optional” blocks shall be used. A single block means a block with one sheave; a double block means a block with two sheaves. “Optional” blocks may include a becket, a swivel and/or a shackle.
• The plastic cunningham fairlead may be replaced with one of the same type which has a stainless steel insert, and has the same screw hole positions.
• The “Optional” deck blocks may be supported with a spring, ball, plastic tube or tape.
• Control lines shall not be tied to any of the cunningham fairlead, the “Builder Supplied” deck block fitting and the “Optional” blocks attached to it, the cunningham clam cleat or the “Builder Supplied” deck cleat base and the “Optional” cam cleats, cleat bridge and fairleads attached to it.
• Rope loop handles covered with plastic/rubber tube and/or tape may be included anywhere on the free end of a control line.
• The free ends of different control lines (except mainsheet) may be tied together and/or tied to any deck fitting or the centreboard, the centreboard handle or a rope loop used to attach a retaining line. Free ends of control lines shall not be tied to shock cord (except mainsheet).
• To secure the mast in the event of a capsize, a loose retention line or shock cord (that will allow 180 degree plus mast rotation) shall be tied/ attached between the cunningham fairlead or the deck block fitting and the mast tang or gooseneck. Clips, hooks, shackles and balls may be used to attach the retention line.
• Reference points (marks) may be placed on the deck, spars and ropes.
• The mainsheet shall be a single line, and be attached to the becket of the aft boom block, and then passed through the traveller block, the aft boom block, boom eye strap, forward boom block and the mainsheet block. After the mainsheet block it shall be knotted, or tied, so that the end of the mainsheet cannot pull through the mainsheet block. The mainsheet shall not be controlled aft of the forward boom block except to facilitate a tack or gybe.
• The tail of the mainsheet may also be knotted or tied to either the base of the mainsheet block, the hiking strap, the hiking strap support line, or the hiking strap shock cord. This option, if used, satisfies the knotting requirement in 3(c)i.
• The mainsheet block may be replaced by any type of single block with or without an internal or attached jamming device, and mounted in the position shown on the measurement diagram. The block may be supported by a spring, ball, plastic tube or tape.
• One mainsheet clam or cam cleat of any type may be mounted on each side deck in the position shown on the measurement diagram.
• The vang system shall be between the mast tang and the boom key fitting and shall be comprised of the vang cleat block, the vang key block, a maximum of two control lines, loops and/or “Optional” blocks for additional purchase with a maximum of 7 “Turning Points”.
• The vang cleat block shall be attached directly to the mast tang, or to an “Optional” swivel that shall be attached to the mast tang.
• A shackle may be used to attach the vang cleat block or the swivel to the mast tang.
• The swivel, shackle or swivel/shackle combination shall not exceed 80 mm in length when measured under tension.
• The vang key block may be fitted with a spare key.
• The key may be straight or bent, and it may be held in the key way with either tape, elastic or velcro.
• The vang key block may be replaced with an “Optional” vang key block which may have a spare key.
• “Optional” single blocks may be attached to one or both sides of the vang cleat block, using a clevis pin or bolt through the attachment hole in the vang cleat block.
• The mast tang hole may be drilled to take a larger pin.
• The Vang cleating fitting may be replaced with a “builder supplied” vang cleating fitting which incorporates “turning points” and a cam cleat.
• The fitting shall be attached directly to the mast tang.
• The fitting shall not be modified in any way except as permitted in (d)
• Fairleads, cleats, attachment pins & rings may be replaced with parts of equivalent shape, size, weight, and function.
• The cunningham system shall consist of a maximum three control lines, “Optional” blocks or loops for purchase with a maximum of 5 “Turning Points”.
• The cunningham control line shall be securely attached to any of the mast, gooseneck, mast tang, swivel or shackle that may be used to attach the vang cleat block to the mast tang, the cunningham attachment point on the “Builder Supplied” vang cleating fitting, or the becket of an optional becket block fixed on the cunningham attachment point on the “Builder Supplied” vang. The cunningham control line shall pass through the sail tack cringle as a moving line. The sail tack cringle shall be at least one of the maximum of 5 “Turning Points” permitted by Rule 3(e)i.
• Additional purchases may be obtained using rope loops, “Optional” blocks and using any of the boom, sail tack cringle, gooseneck fitting, mast tang, shackle attaching vang cleat block or swivel, the swivel, or the cunningham attachment point on a “Builder Supplied” vang cleating fitting.
• Deck Block Fitting and Deck Cleat Base The cunningham control line shall pass only once through the cunningham fairlead or “Optional”single block attached to the “Builder Supplied”deck block fitting and shall pass only once through the cunningham clam cleat or “Optional” cam cleat attached to the “Builder Supplied” deck cleat base.
• The outhaul system shall consist of a maximum of two control lines, “Optional” blocks or loops for purchase and a maximum of 6 “TurningPoints”.
• The outhaul control line shall be attached to either the end of the boom, the outhaul fairlead, the sail, or a quick release system, and shall pass through the boom outhaul fairlead as a moving line at least once. The outhaul fairlead shall be at least one of the maximum of 6 “Turning Points” permitted by Rule 3(f)i.
• Additional purchases may be obtained by forming rope loops in the line or adding “Optional” blocks to the line, and/or using the outhaul fairlead,the outhaul clam cleat, the boom, the mast or gooseneck fitting. An “Optional’ block may be attached to the outhaul fairlead, provided Rule 3(f)ii is also satisfied. An “Optional” block may be attached to the outhaul clam cleat.
• An “Optional” block may be attached to the clew of the sail, or to a quick release system, or be part of a quick release system.
• One or two “Optional” blocks may be attached to the gooseneck fitting, or at the mast/gooseneck junction with their “Turning Points” not more than100mm from the center of the gooseneck bolt (the gooseneck may be inverted). The blocks in this rule may also be attached to the gooseneck with a bolt or a pin.
• A shock cord may be used as an inhaul on the clew.
• Shock cord and/or rope loops (rope loops maybe part of the control line) can be tied around the boom and/or the outhaul control lines to retain the outhaul lines close to the boom.
• When led to the deck, the outhaul control line shall pass only once through the cunningham fairlead or the outhaul “Optional” single block attached to the “Builder Supplied” deck block fitting and shall pass only once through the “Optional” cam cleat attached to the “Builder Supplied” deck cleat base.
• The boom outhaul clam cleat shall not be removed.
• If the clew tie down is a tie line, it may be passed through solid balls with holes and/or tubes to reduce friction.
• The traveller shall be a single line. It shall be rigged as a simple closed loop through the traveller eyes and the free end passing through the traveller cleat. A splice that does not extend through the nearest traveller eye may be used at the non-free end.
• A spring, ball or tape may be used between the traveller blocks.

4. Sail Registration Numbers, National Letters and National Flag (For Radial and 4.7 sail number positions please see part 4 rule 29(e) and 30(e).)

• For boats up to sail number 148199, the sail number is a number moulded into the deck under the bow eye or into the transom, or displayed on a plate attached to the rear of the cockpit. For boats with sail numbers from 148200, the sail number is the number displayed on a unique World Sailing Building Plaque attached to the rear of the cockpit.
• All numbers shall be in accordance with the Racing Rules of Sailing except as amended by these rules in respect of type, positioning and minimum dimensions: Height 300 mm. Width 200 mm (excluding digit 1). Thickness 45 mm. Space between adjoining numbers minimum 50 mm. Sail numbers shall be regularly spaced. Numbers on the starboard side shall be placed above those on the port side. Each sail number digit shall be of one colour only. The sail numbers shall be solid and easy to read. After 1st March 1998 – sail numbers and national letters shall only be adhesive numbers. The use of permanent ink pens or similar to mark numbers and national letters on the sail is prohibited.
• For sails with numbers above 153000 and sails purchased after 1st June 1993 the sail numbers shall be glued or sewn on each side of the sail, with the bottom of the numbers on the starboard side of the sail placed along a line parallel to and 400 mm (+ or – 12 mm) below the seam at the middle batten pocket. The bottom of the numbers on the port side of the sail shall be placed on a line 400 mm (+ or – 12 mm) below and parallel to the bottom of the numbers on the starboard side of the sail. The starboard sail numbers shall commence 100 mm (+ or – 12 mm) from the leech and the port side numbers shall end 100 mm (+ or – 12 mm) from the leech. (Refer to sail number application diagram on pages 25-28 of the Handbook for procedure for applying sail numbers & letters).
• Sail numbers from 131000, sails purchased after 1st June 1993 and new sails stamped “New Numbers” shall have numbers that are clearly visible with the last four digits of the number in one dark, distinctive colour or black and any preceding numbers in a different, contrasting, distinctive colour (red is recommended).
• when the hull and/or sail are provided by the organisers for an event and after approval of the International Laser Class Association, the numbers on the sail used for that event only may be single, double or triple digit numbers.
• in the case of a boat borrowed or chartered for a specific event, and after written approval from the Race Committee, a competitor may use a sail with numbers that are different to the sail number allocated to the hull. The sail number used shall be the sail number allocated to the competitor’s own boat. When the competitor does not own a boat, the number used on the sail shall be the number of the boat chartered.
• when a sail is damaged during a series and Rule 7(c) applies the sail number may contravene Rules 4(a) and (e)ii only when written permission for a sail number change is given by the Race Committee.
• National Letters, if required, shall conform to the same type, size, spacing and requirements as sail numbers (refer rule 4(b), (c), (d) and (e)) and shall be positioned as follows (also see diagrams on pages 25-28 of the Handbook): The letters on the starboard side of the MKI sail shall be placed along the top edge of the seam below the bottom batten pocket (+ or -12 mm) for MKII sail on a Base Line 400mm (+ or 12mm) below the bottom batten pocket and on the port side of the sail along a line 400 mm (+ or – 12 mm) below and parallel to the letters on the starboard side. The starboard letters shall commence 100 mm (+ or – 12 mm) from the leech and the port letters shall finish 100 mm (+ or – 12 mm) from the leech. The letters shall all be the same colour, which may be one of the colours of the digits of the sail number, or another distinctive colour. National Letters shall be required at all World Championships, Regional Championships and events described as international events in the notice of race or sailing instructions. National Letters may be required at any other regatta by the notice of race or sailing instructions.
• World or regional (continental) championships.
• Events described as “international events” by the Notice of Race or Sailing Instructions.
• Other events that prescribe in the Notice of Race or Sailing Instructions that women competitors should be identified.
• The minimum size and approximate position shall comply with diagram “ Red Rhombus “.
• The rhombus may be retained for racing in other events.
• NATIONAL FLAG If required by the Notice of Race and the Sailing Instructions, a national flag with a nominal size of 567 x 337 mm shall be applied to both sides of the mainsail. For the Standard and Radial sails, flags shall be positioned such that the aft edge of the flag is within 100 and 150 mm of the leech and between the sail numbers and the batten pocket below the sail numbers. The flag shall be approximately parallel with the sail numbers and letters and shall not touch the numbers. For the 4.7 sail, the flag shall be positioned within 100 and 150 mm of the leech but below and within 50 mm of the bottom batten pocket. The flag shall be printed on separate material applied to the sail. The use of permanent ink pens or similar to make a national flag is forbidden. The national flag shall correspond to the national letters.

5. Mast No mast which has a permanent bend shall be used at any time.

6. Clothing and Equipment

• In alteration of RRS 50.1 (b) the maximum total weight of competitors’ clothing and equipment shall be 9 kg (for Radial and 4.7 rigs please see part 4).
• Competitors shall not wear or carry non floating clothing or equipment which in total weight exceeds 500 grammes dead weight except protective sailing clothing.
• For the purposes of weighing clothing and equipment as required by RRS Appendix H three coat hangers may be used instead of a rack.

7. Sailing Requirements

• The boat shall be raced with either one or two persons aboard. When two persons race on one boat they shall race together throughout the entire race or series of races without alternating at the helm.
• No part of the helmsman or crew may be placed forward of the mast while racing.
• Sails In a series of races a sail shall not be changed for another unless written permission for an individual change is obtained from the race committee. Written permission shall only be given in the event of a sail damaged beyond repair or damaged to the extent that it cannot be repaired before the start of the next race in a series. In the event of a change the damaged sail shall not be used again in that series even if it is subsequently repaired. For the purpose of this rule, a series is deemed to be two or more individual races which count towards an overall points total.

8. Hull Coating The use of slowly soluble applications which might alter the boundary layer characteristics of the hull are prohibited.

9. Class Association Membership No person is permitted to race in any Fleet, interFleet, District, or other sanctioned event unless at least one member of the crew is a current member of the International Laser Class Association (a member of a District Laser Association duly established in accordance with the Constitution is a member of the International Laser Class Association).

10. Advertising Advertising, including competitor advertising, is permitted in accordance with World Sailing Regulation 20 – Advertising code; except that the sail window shall be kept free of advertising or other graphic material.

[ Note: Information about World Sailing Regulation 20 is available through the World Sailing Website:  http://www.sailing.org/documents/regulations/regulations.php ]

11. Hull Finish

• Waxing, polishing and fine wet and dry sanding of the hull is permitted, provided the intention and effect is to polish the hull only. Polishing/sanding shall not be used to remove mould imperfections.
• Sanding and refinishing of the hull with the intention or effect to lighten the hull or improve the performance, finish, materials or shape beyond the original is not permitted.

12. Transom Drain Plug A retaining line may be attached to the transom drain bung and the gudgeon.

13. Self Bailer A self-bailing device as supplied only by the builder may be added. The bailer may be sealed with tape, filler or glue along its edge where it joins the hull and at the screw hole. Filling the screw hole level with the flat surface of the bailer is permitted. Fairing the flat surface of the bailer to the hull shape or changing the profile of the bailer is not permitted. The drain bung may be removed from the self-bailer, and the self bailer opening pin may be secured to the cockpit floor with self adhesive plastic tape. The builder-supplied o-rings may be substituted with non builder-supplied alternatives provided the basic function of the bailer is unchanged.

14. Centreboard

• A rope handle passing through not more than two holes of maximum diameter 12.5 mm above a line drawn from the bottom of the centreboard stop, parallel to the top of the centreboard is permitted. A plastic/rubber tube and/or tape are permitted on the handle of the centreboard.
• The trailing edge of the centreboard may be sharpened by sanding the blade between the trailing edge and a line 100 mm parallel to the trailing edge, provided the distance between the leading edge and the trailing edge of the blade is not reduced.
• Surface refinishing of the centreboard is permitted provided the original shape, thickness and characteristics are not altered.
• One layer of any material of maximum 2mm thickness and of a maximum size of 30mm x 30mm may be applied at the top front corner of the centreboard case. Vertical cuts are allowed in the material to allow the material to conform to the shape of the centreboard case.
• A wood centreboard shall not be used on a hull that was originally supplied with a non wood centreboard.
• A tie line or shock cord shall be attached to the small hole in the upper forward corner of the centreboard, and any of the bow eye, the cunningham fairlead, the “Builder Supplied” deck block fitting and the mast to prevent loss of the centreboard in event of a capsize. The tie line or shock cord may be looped around the bow, but shall not be attached to the gunwale. Attachment can be by knots or loops in the shock cord, and/or tie lines, shackles, clips, hooks or eyes. When the shock cord is attached to the bow eye it may also pass through an attachment to the “Builder Supplied” deck block fitting or the cunningham fairlead.
• The components of the “Builder Supplied” centreboard stopper may be secured together by glue, screws, bolts, nuts and washers, provided the original shape and dimensions are not reduced.
• The trailing edge of the rudder blade may be sharpened by sanding the blade between the trailing edge and a line 60 mm parallel to the trailing edge, provided the distance between the leading edge and the trailing edge of the blade is not reduced.
• Surface refinishing of the rudder blade is permitted provided that the original shape, thickness and characteristics are not altered.
• The rudder blade and/or rudder head holes may be enlarged up to a maximum diameter of 10mm. The rudder bolt and bush set may be replaced with a larger diameter bolt to fit this hole. The bolt head, nut and washers shall fall within a 20mm diameter circle.
• To achieve the maximum 78 degree rudder angle relative to the bottom edge of the rudder head, the leading edge of the blade may be cut away where it touches the spacing pin.
• To restrict the rudder angle to maximum 78 degrees relative to the bottom edge of the rudder head, the lower forward spacing pin may be wound with flexible adhesive tape.
• The rudder pintles may be fitted with spacers to lift the rudder head to allow the tiller to clear the deck at the transom.
• The rudder downhaul line may have multiple purchases.
• A hole may be drilled in the top rudder pintle and a pin or clip inserted in the hole to prevent loss of the rudder.
• A wood rudder shall not be used on a hull that was originally supplied with a non wood rudder.
• The rudder shall be maintained in the full down position except whilst racing in water less than 1.5m deep unless otherwise specified in the sailing instructions.
• Padding of uniform thickness may be used in the gap between the rudder blade and rudder head. This padding must cover completely the part of the rudder blade that comes in contact with the rudder head. The thickness of the rudder blade plus the padding must not exceed 20.3mm.
• shall be capable of being removed from the rudder head.
• shall be fitted with a cleat, hook, pin or eye to secure the downhaul.
• shall, except for normal wear caused by the traveller rope, be straight along its topmost edge between a point 30 mm in front of the forward edge of the rudder head and the cockpit end of the tiller.
• The tiller may be fitted with an “anti wear” strip or tube of not more than 200 mm in length placed above the level of the straight edge required by 16 (a) iii and only where the traveller crosses the tiller.
• The use of a tiller retaining pin is optional.

17. Hiking Strap

• The hiking strap may be substituted with any type of non-stretch material and it may be padded.
• The hiking strap may be fixed to the cockpit at the forward end by wrapping the strap around the mainsheet block plastic pressure plate or by using both the centreboard friction attachment plate and the mainsheet block plastic pressure plate.
• The hiking strap supporting line between the aft end of the hiking strap and the eye straps on the aft face of the cockpit may be rigged in any manner so that the hiking strap is fixed or adjustable and may include one cleat; one ring, thimble, or shackle; or both.
• A shock cord may be attached between the aft end of the hiking strap and to either the traveller cleat, or the hiking strap eye straps at the aft end of the cockpit.
• A metal sleeve supplied by the builder of maximum length 900 mm may be fixed inside the boom. The sleeve shall not extend aft of the point 1220 mm from the front end of the boom (including plug).
• To prevent abrasion of the mast step, tubes or collars of uniform thickness not exceeding 1mm in total may be placed around the entire circumference of the lower mast or the mast step cavity. A tube or collar shall not extend more than 10 mm above deck level. In addition, a disc of uniform thickness not exceeding 1mm in thickness may be placed in the bottom of the mast step.
• The mast or mast cavity may be lubricated.
• Tape or other bushing material may be applied to both the plastic end cap, the collar of the upper mast and the upper mast to ensure a snug fit. The tape or bushing material may only be used on that portion of the plastic parts that actually slide into the lower section and/or between the upper mast and the collar and it shall be a uniform thickness around the circumference. Taping or bushing material above the collar to fair the collar into the mast is prohibited.
• Flexible adhesive tape may be applied to the outside of the joint of the upper and lower mast sections to a limit of 40mm above and below the joint to prevent rotation of the mast sections at the joint.

20. Inspection Ports Inspection ports not exceeding 153 mm internal diameter may be installed on the deck or in the cockpit to provide access to the hull cavity, provided that any inspection port is fitted with watertight threaded covers (any bayonet mounted parts are deemed to be not threaded). Storage receptacles are permitted underneath hatch covers.

21. Clips and Storage Bags Clips, ties or bags to stow or secure safety or other equipment may be used on the deck, in the cockpit, around the mast or boom.

22. Compass, Electronic Equipment and Timing Devices

• One compass mounted on any part of the deck or the cockpit is permitted if the hull cavity is not pierced by anything other than the fasteners. Compasses may not be fitted to inspection ports. An additional wrist mounted compass is permitted. Electronic, self-contained, digital compasses using only magnetic input are permitted.
• A timing device and electronic compass may be integrated in the same device.
• A compass or timing device must not be capable of displaying, delivering, transmitting, receiving, calculating, correlating or storing information about wind speed, wind direction, boat speed or boat position.
• Any use of electronic equipment not specifically allowed in the rules is prohibited unless the rules are modified by the sailing instructions.

23. Wind Indicators

• Wind indicators may be attached as desired provided the sail is not cut and the buoyancy qualities of the hull and mast are not impaired.
• Ribbons, wool or similar wind indicators may be attached to the sail.

24. Tape and Line

The use of flexible adhesive tape or similar, line or heat shrink tube is permitted to secure shackle pins and clips, and to bind sheets, control lines and rigging, except that tape or line shall not be used to construct new fittings or modify the function of existing fittings.

25. Safety Equipment Any additional equipment required by an international, national or other governing authority for safety purposes may be fitted or carried provided it is not used in contravention of the FUNDAMENTAL RULE.

26. Repairs and Maintenance

• Repairs and preventative maintenance to the sail, hull, deck, centreboard, rudder, mast, boom or any fittings and fixings may be carried out without violation of these Rules provided such repairs are made in such a way that the essential shape, characteristics or function of the original are not affected.
• In the event of the failure of any fittings, or the replacement of fittings as authorised by these Rules, the fitting or the replacement shall be the same type as the original and shall be placed in a position conforming to the Measurement Diagrams .
• Preventative maintenance includes the replacement of fasteners (screws, bolts, nuts, washers and rivets) provided the replacement does not alter the function of the fitting. The tolerances of the Measurement Diagrams shall not be used to alter the position of fittings. In addition the reversing of spars is permitted if the fittings are replaced in accordance with the Measurement Diagrams. Any holes in the top section of the mast shall be permanently sealed with a rivet or similar to maintain the buoyancy of the mast.
• Sail panels and luff sleeves shall not be replaced.
• Any flotation equipment (flotation foam blocks or Cubitainer inserts) that is defective or has been removed shall be replaced by fully air filled, builder supplied, Cubitainer inserts which shall have an equal volume to the defective or removed flotation equipment.
• The use of lubricants is unrestricted except that they shall not be used on the hull (below the gunwales).

27. Reefing The sail may be reefed by rolling the sail around the mast 1 or 2 times.

28. Camera One camera may be attached to the sailor or may be mounted on the boat if the hull cavity is not pierced by anything other than the fasteners.

29. Radial Rig

• The Radial sail and bottom mast as supplied by an approved Builder shall conform to the Measurement Diagrams which form part of these Rules.
• The Radial rig may be used in any class regatta subject to the conditions in 29 (c) and any restrictions in the Notice of Race and Sailing Instructions.
• The Radial rig may only be used in District Championships and higher level regattas when prescribed in the Notice of Race and Sailing Instructions.
• In a series of races a Radial rig shall not be changed for a Standard or 4.7 rig. A series is 2 or more races that count towards an overall points total.
• SAIL REGISTRATION NUMBERS & NATIONAL LETTERS Rules 4(c) and (f) shall be amended to read as follows:4(c) For sails with numbers above 153000 and sails purchased after 1st June 1993 the sail numbers shall be glued or sewn on each side of the sail, with the bottom of the numbers on the starboard side of the sail placed along a line parallel to and 400 mm (+ or – 12 mm) below the underside of the middle batten pocket. The bottom of the numbers on the port side of the sail shall be placed on a line 400 mm (+ or – 12 mm) below and parallel to the bottom of the numbers on the starboard side of the sail. The starboard sail numbers shall commence 100 mm (+ or – 12 mm) from the leech and the port side numbers shall finish 100 mm (+ or – 12 mm) from the leech. (Refer to sail number application diagram for procedure for applying numbers & letters). 4(f) National Letters, if required, shall conform to the same type, size, spacing and requirements as sail numbers (refer rule 4(b), (c), (d) and (e)) and shall be positioned as follows (also see diagram):The top of the letters on the starboard side of the sail shall be placed on the bottom edge of the bottom batten pocket and its extension (+ 12 mm). The starboard letters shall commence 100 mm (+ or – 12 mm) from the leech. The bottom of the letters on the port side shall be placed on a line 400 mm (+ or – 12 mm) below and parallel to the bottom of the letters on the starboard side of the sail. The port letters shall finish 100 mm (+ or – 12 mm) from the leech. The letters shall all be the same colour, which may be one of the colours of the digits of the sail number, or another distinctive colour.National Letters shall be required at all World Championships, Regional Championships and events described as international events in the notice of race or sailing instructions. National Letters may be required at any other regatta by the notice of race or sailing instructions.
• CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT Rule 6(a) shall be amended to read as follows: 6(a) For the purposes of RRS 50.1 (b) the maximum total weight of competitors clothing and equipment shall be 9 kg.

30. 4.7 Rig

• The 4.7 sail and bottom mast as supplied by an approved Builder shall conform to the Measurement Diagrams which form part of these Rules.
• The 4.7 rig may be used in any class regatta subject to the conditions in 30 (c) and any restrictions in the Notice of Race and Sailing Instructions.
• The 4.7 rig may only be used in District Championships and higher level regattas when prescribed in the Notice of Race and Sailing Instructions.
• In a series of races a 4.7 rig shall not be changed for a Standard or Radial rig. A series is 2 or more races that count towards an overall points total.
• SAIL REGISTRATION NUMBERS Rules 4(b), 4(c) and 4(f) shall be amended to read as follows:4(b) On 4.7 sails all numbers shall be in accordance with the Racing Rules of Sailing and shall be of the following minimum dimensions: Height 220 mm. Width 150 mm (excluding digit 1). Thickness 30 mm. Note: Optimist Class legal numbers conform to this rule. The maximum height to conform is 240mm. Space between adjoining numbers / letters and rows minimum 30 mm. Sail numbers shall be regularly spaced. Numbers on the starboard side shall be placed above those on the port side. Each number digit shall be one colour only. The numbers shall be solid and easy to read.4(c) For sails with numbers above 153000 and sails purchased after 1st June 1993 the sail numbers shall be glued or sewn on each side of the sail, with the bottom of the starboard numbers placed along the top edge of a line placed 270mm (0 to +12mm) below and parallel to the seam below the bottom edge of the middle batten pocket. The port side numbers shall be placed along a line 270mm below and parallel to the bottom of the starboard side numbers. The starboard side numbers shall commence 100 mm (+ or – 12 mm) from the leech and the port side numbers shall end 100 mm (+ or – 12 mm) from the leech. (Refer to sail number application diagram for procedure for applying numbers & letters) 4(f) National letters, if required, shall conform to the same type, size, spacing and requirements as 4.7 numbers (refer rule 30 (e) 4 (b)). For all 4.7 sails with numbers from 190000, and for sails purchased from 1 April 2006 onwards the bottom of the starboard side letters shall be placed along a line 270mm (+12mm) below and parallel to the bottom of the numbers on the port side and start 100mm (+ or –12mm) from the leech. The bottom of the letters on the port side shall be placed along a line 270mm (+12mm) below and parallel to the bottom of the letters on the starboard side and finish 100mm (+ or –12mm) from the leech. For 4.7 sails with numbers under 190000 that were purchased before 1 April 2006, they may be placed as above or along the same line, 270mm below and parallel to the bottom of the numbers on the port side, on opposite sides of the sail. The letters on the port side shall be closer to the leech than those on the starboard side, with the port side letters finishing 100mm (+ or – 12mm) from the leech. National Letters shall be required at all World Championships, Regional Championships and events described as international events in the notice of race or sailing instructions. National Letters may be required at any other regatta by the notice of race or sailing instructions. The letters shall all be the same colour, which may be one of the colours of the digits of the sail number, or another distinctive colour.
• MAST Rule 5 shall be amended to read as follows: 5 The 4.7 bottom mast is supplied with a pre-bend aft of approximately 5 degrees. The pre-bend shall not be increased or decreased. No top mast that has permanent bend in it shall be used at any time.
• CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT Rule 6(a) shall be amended to read as follows: 6(a) For the purposes of RRS 50.1 (b) the maximum total weight of competitors clothing and equipment shall be 8 kg.

31. Amendments

Amendments to these Rules shall be approved by each of:

• the World Council,
• the Advisory Council,
• at least two-thirds of the membership casting a vote in response to a ballot published by the International Office of the Class. Only those votes submitted within one month from the date of publication of the rule change ballot shall be valid, and
• World Sailing.

1. Approved Electronic Compasses Below are the approved compasses that meet the requirements of Rule 22. Compass, Electronic Equipment and Timing Devices (NOTE: compasses may be added or removed as circumstances change):

• Nautalytics Simple Compass
• Raymarine T060 Micro
• Velocitek Prism

2. Repairs and Maintenance: Sailors may apply anti-abrasion material at the traveller fairleads to prevent wear of the deck as a form of preventative maintenance under rule 26(a).

3. Hiking strap: A sheaveless block, such as the “shock block” or equivalent, will be considered a ring for the purpose of rule 17(c).

4. In accordance with ILCA Class Rule 22e, the use of heartbeat monitor with no additional function or capability is permitted. The heartbeat monitor device shall comply with Class Rule 22.

Previous rule interpretations have been incorporated into the Class Rules.

Stay in Phase

The Shift is a tactical sailing compass that allows you to easily see your heading and how much you’re headed or lifted. Big numbers and oversized buttons make it simple to use. The Shift’s aerospace-grade motion-processing algorithm makes it smoother and more responsive than any other tactical compass on the market.

See shifts at a glance.

Big numbers and bold arrows make it easy to see your heading and how much you're headed or lifted.

The Shift's 38mm (1.5") high digits can be easily read from over 30m (100 ft) away. The Shift's high contrast LCD will also show up crystal clear through your polarized sunglasses.

Works under pressure.

Oversized buttons allow you to instantly store port and starboard reference angles on the fly.

Solid-state 9-Axis AHRS.

The Shift uses a solid-state 9-axis Attitude and Heading Reference System (AHRS). The result is aerospace-grade heading indication that is smoother and more responsive than any other tactical compass on the market.

THE PROSTART'S TIMER.

When you hear or see any type of start signal just hit the GUN button. If the timer isn’t running, it will start. If the timer is running it will sync.

Once the timer is sync'ed you can independently adjust minutes while the seconds keep counting down.

The Shift has a red LED backlight that won’t ruin your night vision. The battery's good for over 60 hours of sailing in the dark.

SOLAR POWERED.

The top of the Shift is dedicated to an enormous 26mm x 124mm (1" x 5") solar panel. This keeps the Shift juiced-up and ready for action.

REPLACEABLE BATTERY.

Even the best lithium batteries don't last forever. The Shift was designed to make it easy for you to replace the product's battery yourself.

WATERPROOF.

The Shift is designed to withstand continuous immersion at 3m (9 ft). Every single unit that comes off the assembly line is pressure-tested before it ships.

CLASS LEGAL.

The Shift doesn't use any GPS technology and it even comes with a static-cling Legalizer Label for use in the most conservative one design classes.

COMPASS MODE

Heading on top, reference angle on the bottom and shift indicator on the side. Each shift indicator arrow segment represents 5° of deviation from the set reference angle.

Timer on top and heading on the bottom.

Ready to race?

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ILCA Carbon Fiber Top Section

Carbon Fiber ILCA 6 Lower Mast

Deck compass bracket for ilca.

This Deck Bracket is perfect for mounting the Raymarine Tacktick or Nautalytics Laser compass to the deck of your boat.  It is a very light weight option that velcros onto the deck of your boat.  You rig your outhaul and cunningham lines through the compass bracket so even if the velcro fails the bracket can't come off the boat.

Deck Compass Bracket for ILCA/Laser

Race Compass Smarts: When and How to Use One

Get a race compass! Without a compass, it seems there is a herd mentality, a tendency to go with the crowd. With a compass you’ll know why you are going with the crowd, or not.  Sailboat Racing with Gr eg Fisher

Until you’re pretty experienced and sailing against really good people, just sail in pressure on the tack that is closest to the mark. You’ll do well and don’t need a race compass. “Surf Nazi,” on Sailing Anarchy

In my opinion the compass is a secondary input. A compass only provides information for one spot on the course. More important to look around and read the wind patterns by checking the heading of boats around the course.  “Dog,” on Sailing Anarchy

Since acquiring a compass several years ago, I have experienced the yin and yang expressed in the three statements above. The compass has helped me in many ways, but being too reliant on it has also hurt me. For this post, I collected the existing wisdom on the pros, cons, and techniques for using a race compass.

We have updated this post from the original version with new tips, mental math examples, and refreshed links to compass sources. Unfortunately, our favorite digital compass, the Velocitek Shift is no longer in production.

Pros and Cons of Using a Race Compass

You win sailboat races by sailing faster and less distance than your opponents. To sail less distance, you must have a good feel for the angles. Many sailors develop this feel visually over time. However, not everyone can retain this visual information in the heat of battle.

Pro: precise angles matter

A compass gives you a precise tool for the angles. Winning in One-Designs , by Dave Perry, has a great table showing the dramatic gains and losses due to wind shifts in various situations, even with small shifts.  A 5° shift results gives the favored side an advantage of 12% of the lateral separation. On a 200-yard starting line, that’s a 24-yard advantage. If you sail a 5° header for one minute you will lose at least four boat lengths to a boat on the lifted tack.  For a simple table of advantages, check out this article from Sailing Breezes .

Pro: quick reference tool with many uses

In the heat of battle it’s nice to simplify your life. A compass gives you a quick reference for decisions in the stressful moments, such as after starts and mark roundings.  A compass helps you find marks, check the starting line, and sail the lifted tack.

Con: distraction of dubious value

Many seasoned sailors say that using a race compass is just one more excuse to keep your head in the boat. You should be looking around constantly, integrating all the data about sailing angles, wind strength, and competitors. You can train yourself to recognize slight headers and store a mental picture of the average wind direction in your head. When a permanent shift occurs, your previous compass data on average wind is useless. 

The verdict

I’ll go with Greg Fisher on this one: use a compass, but learn to use it as one input, and keep your head out of the boat. This is what we should strive for.  The compass has helped me even on small  lakes. As the lake gets bigger, a compass becomes more important, since there are fewer shore references. 

Using a Race Compass: The Numbers

So, you’ve decided to try using a race compass. To use it effectively, you need to “know the numbers.” Use part of your pre-race routine to gather the data and do the math.  

Average headings and wind direction

• Sail on each tack for at least ten minutes. The more time and more portions of the course, the better. Write down or mentally note your headings on each tack.  Caution: when noting a heading, make sure you are trimmed in and sailing a true close-hauled course. If you are pinching or footing, your numbers won’t be accurate.
• Determine the average heading on each tack, and the highest and lowest values as well. Record or remember these numbers.
• Determine the average wind direction. This is the value halfway between the average heading on each tack. Example: 235° average on port, 145° average on starboard. Average wind is 190°.  (235-145 = 90. 1/2 of 90 = 45. 45 + 145 = 190)
• Check the average wind direction against other known quantities: -Go head to wind several times and compare the compass bearing to your calculated average wind. -Check the calculated average wind against the RC radio chatter or posted course bearing. -Check the average wind against the forecasted direction.
• Keep checking the average wind to detect any oscillations or persistent shifts that may be occurring before the start.

Tacking angle

Your tacking angle is the difference of the average readings on each tack. In the example above, the tacking angle is 90°. This is a common tacking angle in medium breeze. Tacking angles might range from 80° in slightly heavier air to as much as 100-110° in light air. As your tacking angle changes, it will affect your average headings on each tack. It’s very important to know your tacking angle in various wind ranges, even if you don’t use a compass.

Starting line bias

With shifty winds, any momentary advantage at one end of the line disappears when the wind shifts. The best strategy is to know the line bias to the average wind direction. Race Committees try to set the line square to the average wind, but they often fail.

Don’t use the windward mark placement to determine the average wind. Race committees don’t often center the windward mark on the course. See our post on ladder rungs for more about why windward mark placement doesn’t matter.

Finding line bias

Sail down the line in either direction, lining up bow and stern with the line flags or buoys. Compare the bearing to a square line. A square line will be the average wind minus 90° when sailing on starboard, or the average wind plus 90° when sailing on port.   Example: Your compass bearing when sailing the line on starboard toward the pin is 85°.  The average wind is 190°.  These figures give you the following insights:

• A square line bearing on starboard tack would be 190 – 90 = 100°
• The 85° bearing on starboard indicates the pin (left) end is 15° low (100 – 85).

Anything more than a 5° bias may be significant, especially if the line is long.

Memory and visualization aids for line bias

• Square line bearing on port equals the average wind plus 90 (p is for port and plus). Starboard is minus 90.
• When sailing the actual line on starboard tack, if heading is higher than the square line bearing, the left-hand side of the line is favored. If heading is lower , the right-hand side is favored. ( SLR – starboard-lower-right).
• A quick way to check this without math is to sail from one end of the line at the heading you determined for the square line. Then see which end of the line is low. This doesn’t give you the actual line bearing, but may be all you need to know.

Mental math examples to try

Here are some examples. Try to do these in your head and fill in the blanks.

• Average upwind headings: starboard tack – 060°; port tack – 140°
• Average wind direction: ________
• Tacking angle: ________
• Square line bearing on port: ________
• Square line bearing on starboard: ________
• Favored end (right or left): ________
• Degrees favored: ________

Click here for answer.

• Average wind direction: 330° (You weren’t able to sail the course to get average headings, but have determined this by going head to wind several times.)
• Tacking angle: 90°
• Starboard tack: ________
• Port tack: ________

Mental math overload?

If you don’t want to do all the mental math, there are options. Some digital compasses can record the average headings on each tack and show relative lifts and headers. Analog race compasses have lubber lines and other accessories to help you do the math. There is also the Tacking Master , which is an adjustable wrist dial showing all the key reference points. 

Interpreting Changes – Puffs, Lulls, Lifts, Headers 

As your compass heading changes while sailing upwind, it’s important to distinguish between a wind shift (lift or header) and a velocity change (puff or lull). Check your ability to interpret compass readings with these examples.   

Sail luffs #1

With a nominal wind of 8 mph at 360°, you are sailing close-hauled on starboard, heading 315°.  The sail begins to luff slightly. The shroud telltales begin to point further aft. The wind speed on your face feels unchanged. You bear off 5° and the boat livens up again. This is a header. You were correct in bearing off to keep the boat in the groove.

Sail luffs #2

With a nominal wind of 8 mph at 360°, you are sailing close-hauled on starboard, heading 315°.  The sail begins to luff slightly. The shroud telltales begin to point further aft. The wind speed on your face feels diminished. If you bear off, the boat doesn’t react much. This is a lull, not a change in true wind direction. The boat will slow down due to reduced wind velocity and your tacking angle will increase, so you will eventually need to bear off if it lasts, but you shouldn’t bear off right away. Sailing lulls properly is not intuitive to many sailors. See our posts – Sailing Lull Tips and Sailing Lulls Tips – Part II  – for more.

Strong Puff

With a nominal wind of 8 mph at 360°, you are sailing close-hauled on port, heading 45°.  You see a strong puff (perhaps 12 mph) approaching on the water. As the puff hits, you ease the sheet to accelerate, but you find that you can’t steer up with the increased speed and your close-hauled heading does not change.  This puff is also a header. The tacking angle decreased as you increased speed during the puff, so you should be able to head up. Since you can’t head up, the true wind direction must also have changed.

Upwind: When to Use (and When to Ignore) Your Race Compass

Getting the numbers and interpreting changes are only the first steps. The hard part is using your compass data with all the other information, including your observations of the wind, your competitors, your overall strategy, and your predictions about what will happen next. Here are some thoughts from the experts on how to solve the puzzle in various scenarios.  

Oscillating breeze

In an oscillating breeze, with minimal changes in wind velocity across the course, you can simply sail the lifted tack, tacking when headed below the average heading. Waiting until you are headed below the average is very powerful. Many sailors tack at the first indication of a header and others follow. This is the herd mentality discussed in the first quote at the top of the article. For more on sailing in an oscillating breeze, see our post on Sail the Lifted Tack – How and When?

Persistent shift

In a persistent shift, you must sail toward the direction of the shift. You may have to sail a header to get there. However, it’s better to take the header early, rather than later, when the wind has shifted even further. So, in a persistent shift, ignore your compass and sail toward the shift until you are closer than your competitors (but not past the layline).

Most race courses are a combination of oscillating and persistent shifts, with variations in velocity across the course. The strategy here is to connect the dots and sail conservatively. Here are some tips for using the compass in these conditions.

Connect the dots

The overall strategy for hybrid conditions is to “connect the dots.” This means finding the breeze and then sailing the lifted tack. Work your way up the course by sailing toward the next shift or puff. In this scenario, you may have to take some headers to get in the breeze. Just don’t sail a big header for too long unless you’re certain it will pay off. See our post on  Upwind Strategy: Connecting the Dots  for more.

Don’t get too far to one side

If you get too far to one side, you will lose a lot in an unfavorable shift. On big water, use your compass to help you from getting too far to one side. When sailing away from the center, tack back on smaller headers. When sailing toward the center, only tack back to the sides on larger headers. See our post on  Race with Consistency – Ted Keller Comments  for more.

Sail to the advantage, but not all at once

As the race develops, various areas of the course will become advantaged. You can sail to these areas by footing, pinching, or taking slight headers to get there. Let’s say you are sailing a long lift, but see boats behind and to windward that are beginning to lift above you. Unless you see more wind ahead, you probably want to take a hitch to windward. One way to use your compass is to tack when you are on the least lifted heading. Then tack back when you reach the new wind or get a header.

If you have to go a longer distance toward an advantage, try doing it in stages, taking headers when least costly, and tacking back when you are too far headed.

In flat water with stable winds and minimal steering, a 5° shift will be noticeable and possibly worth tacking on. With difficult conditions, such as waves or highly variable wind, your compass readings will show a lot of noise, and you may not want to act unless the shift is 10° or more. 

Bearing to leeward mark

Determine the bearing from the windward mark to the leeward mark before the race starts. If you can head down to the leeward mark bearing as soon as possible after rounding, you’ll sail the least distance.

To get this number, add or subtract 180° to/from the bearing from the start to the windward mark. Example: Bearing from start to windward mark is 75°. Bearing to the leeward mark will be 255° (75 +180=255)

Sail the headed gybe

The rule of thumb for downwind sailing is to sail the headed gybe. The headed gybe is the gybe that takes you closest to the leeward mark when sailing at your preferred angle to the wind. This usually easy to see visually without a compass. On longer courses, you can use your compass bearing to sniff this out more quickly.

Get approximate average wind direction

Sailing downwind, you can also get an approximate average wind direction. This might come in handy if you don’t have much time before the race and are sailing down to the starting line. To make this work, you must be able to judge when you are sailing dead downwind. A mast-head fly is much better for this than shroud telltales, but in either case, you should test on both gybes if accuracy is important.

Permanent shift

If a permanent shift occurs, you need to adjust your numbers for average wind and heading on each tack. Sailors that focus on the race compass and the old numbers will lose big after a permanent shift. Two ways to do this:

• Watch your upwind headings on each tack and try to determine a new average.
• On the downwind leg, try to determine the new average by sailing dead downwind for a few moments.

Pre-Race Routine – Get a Leg up on the Competition – shows a detailed pre-race routine including compass use; input from Roble/Shea Sailing.

Cloud Strategy: Chelsea Carlson (Sea Tactics)

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The Laser is the world’s most popular adult racing class boat. True to box one design standards, each Laser in the world is identical ensuring the best sailor on the water wins the race, not the boat. The Laser is a challenging boat that rewards athleticism, subtle steering and trimming techniques, as well as the tactical excellence of the sailor. The Laser has been raced by young and old alike from the Club level all the way to the Olympics. It comes in 2 different hardware versions XD, for racers and the ones looking for a more thrilling sailing experience and the Race, more suitable for the leisure sailors and club racing. Each hardware version has 3 rig possibilities, the Standard , the Radial and the 4.7  for the heaviest/more athletic to the lighter and younger sailors.

The world’s premier racing dinghy. The Weekender (name of the first prototype), with “TGIF” (Thank God It’s Friday) on the sail was designed in 1969 and quickly revolutionized the racing world with its speed and simplicity. It was called Laser in November 1970 and the production started the same year. It was launched at the New York Boat Show, its uniform design and affordable price attracted sailors and 144 Lasers were sold. Laser sails were identical due to modern laser cutting thus setting a standard for future racing classes. Today this timeless design is by far the most popular adult and youth racing boat worldwide. It is raced by many of the world’s top sailors and has been an Olympic class since 1996. The Laser’s full size rig rewards athleticism and is best for heavier, more experienced sailors, but it can easily be converted to a Radial or 4.7 by changing just the sail and bottom spar. When you race a Laser, one hull goes a long way. Just changing the lower mast and sail, you can convert any boat from Laser to Radial to 4.7. The advantage of this interchangeable formula is that you can easily switch boats as you become older, heavier or more experienced. Each rig helps you prepare for the next, so you get a step-by-step progression that can take you all the way from a beginning racer to World Champion!

The Laser has 2 hardware versions and 3 different rigs. Each uses exactly the same hull and foils, by lower mast and sail will make it suitable for a wide variety of sailors. This offers a unique step-by-step progression that makes it easy to switch models as a sailor change in age, ability or weight.

Two hardware versions to fulfill every sailor needs

• XD – For the ones looking for more performance – Carbon Fibre Upper Mast – Carbon Fibre Tiller and Extension – LaserPerformance Vang
• Race – For Recreational Sailing or Club Racing – Aluminium Upper Mast – Aluminium Tiller and Extension – Holt Vang

Three rig versions to suit every sailor

• Standard – 7.1sqm sail for heavier and more athletic sailors
• Radial – 5.1sqm sail for women, and lighter sailors
• 4.7 – 4.7sqm for youth and lighter females

The Laser is a true sailing phenomenon

With nearly 200,000 boats in 140 countries, it is clearly the world’s most popular adult and youth racing sailboat. Each year the Laser Class runs more races worldwide than any other class. And it’s still going strong! For almost four decades, the Laser has been a sailing success story. One reason is the boat’s sheer simplicity. From its very beginning, the Laser has offered an uncomplicated way for sailors to experience the joy of sailing and the thrill of competition. Many other qualities combine to make the Laser a legendary performer.

Effortless design

The Laser was created to get sailors on the water with minimal fuss. It has a lightweight hull that’s easy to carry and cartop. The two-part free-standing mast and sleeved sail make the boat easy to rig. And the simple layout means sailing is a breeze.

Strict One Design

The Laser is one design boat like no other. The class association is very strong and has strict class rules, so every Laser around the world is identical. This means races are won by sailing ability, not by equipment advantages.

Interchangeable formula

The Laser comes in three distinct models – the full-rig Laser, Laser Radial and Laser 4.7. Each uses exactly the same hull and equipment, except the sails and bottom spar can be changed to fit a wide variety of sailors. This offers a unique step-by-step progression that makes it easy to switch models as a sailor change in age, ability or weight.

Racing pedigree

Because Lasers are simple and identical, they provide exciting competition and a great chance to develop racing skills. Many of the world’s top sailors come through the Laser ranks, and both the Laser and Radial are current Olympic classes. No sailor is too inexperienced or too advanced to race a Laser. That’s why Lasers last a lifetime.

Superb value

The Laser’s simplicity, popularity and one design nature make it very economical. The Laser Class limits and controls go-fast extras, thus the boat will never be outdated, which explains why Lasers have such a high resale value. Whether it’s a local club race or the World Championships, every Laser has exactly the same chance of winning. And a young sailor can go all the way to the top of the sport in the same hull. That is Laser’s simple formula for success.

75.99 ft 2 7.06 m 2

13.78 FT 4.20 M

4.56 FT 1.39 M

2.62 FT 0.80 M

130 LB 58.97 KG

Beginner->Expert

Club->International

BOAT LIGHTNESS

TIME TO WATER

SKILL LEVEL

62 ft 2 5.76 m 2

13.78 FT 4.20M

50.59 ft 2 4.70 m 2

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At over 1m / 3ft long and 2m / 6ft from the tip of the mast to the bottom of the keel, this is the biggest RC sail boat on our list. This is a scaled-down version of the hugely-popular Laser dinghy.

The following in the RC laser has grown recently, with clubs holding regular RC sailboat races and regattas due to its one-design making it very competitive in nature.

The class actually has 4 rigs, so can be rigged depending on the conditions for maximum control and speed.

Make sure that you have a look at this post for an in-depth review and more information on the RC laser sailboat.

Compass 650mm RG65 RC Sailing Boat

Built strong and durable with an ABS molded hull, this radio-controlled sailboat is spectacular. It has a 950mm / 37.4-inch tall mast and is 650mm / 25.6 inches overall in length (135mm / 5.3-inch beam). Servos are pre-installed and it operates on 8 AA batteries with a 2.4 GHz 4-channel radio system.

It requires a small amount of assembly, but after that, it is ready to sail, race, or display.

This radio-controlled sailboat is very lightweight at just 1.35kg / 2.9 pounds and responsive as it will operate in even a gentle breeze.

It is definitely one of the best-looking RC yachts on the market.

PLAYSTEAM Voyager 400 RC Sailboat

This RC sailboat comes pre-assembled, so you don’t have to worry about anything as it’s ready to go.

It requires 4 AA batteries for the controller and comes with a rechargeable LiPo battery on the boat that controls the sails, rudder, and RC receiver.

The sailboat is 26.5in from keel bottom to mast top, and 15.75in long.

VOLANTEXRC Hurricane 1-Meter RC Sailboat

This is a large, lightweight entry made with a strong and durable ABS molded hull and featuring a 2.4 GHz 2-channel radio system.

This RC sail boat weighs just over 1.3kg / 2.98lb. It measures 1m / 39 inches in length, 2.13m / 7 ft tall, and 220mm / 9 inches wide.

It comes complete with a molded plastic boat stand and an instruction manual. It does require some assembly but is easy to put together.

This is an attractive model sailboat that can be operated quickly and easily.

Kyosho Seawind 1-Meter RC Sailboat Racing Yacht

A very popular model that has sold in the thousands over the years, this RC yacht features a strong aluminum mast and boom and can be disassembled for easy transportation and storage.

Measuring 39 inches long by 73 inches tall and 9 inches wide, this product weighs approx. 7 pounds and operates on the 2.4 GHz radio spectrum.

The ABS molded one-piece hull gives it strength and durability. It will take a couple of hours to assemble and contains a lot of rigging pieces. Once completely put together, this impressive, tall yacht is ready for racing and is a simple one to operate.

Expert Tips for RC Sailboat Enthusiasts

Maintenance and care guidelines for rc sailboats.

• Cleaning : Regularly clean your RC sailboat after each sailing session. Use fresh water to rinse off any saltwater or debris that may have accumulated on the boat and sails. Avoid using harsh chemicals that could damage the materials.
• Drying : After cleaning, ensure the sailboat is thoroughly dried before storage. Moisture trapped inside the boat, spars, or on sails can lead to mold and deterioration over time.
• Storage : Store your RC sailboat in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures. You might want to use a boat stand to support the hull and prevent warping.
• Battery Care : Take care of the boat’s battery by following the manufacturer’s charging and storage guidelines. Avoid overcharging, and if the boat won’t be used for an extended period, ensure the battery is stored partially charged.
• Lubrication : Check the moving parts, such as the rudder and winch mechanisms, and apply appropriate lubrication to ensure smooth operation.
• Hull Inspection : Periodically inspect the hull for any cracks, chips, or damage. Repair any issues promptly to prevent water from entering the hull.
• Sail Inspection : Examine the sails for tears or fraying along the edges. Small tears can be repaired with sail tape, while larger damage may require professional sail repairs.

Sailing Tips for Better Performance and Enjoyment

• Wind Awareness: Pay close attention to the wind direction and strength. Learn to read the water’s surface for wind patterns, and adjust your sailing technique accordingly.
• Tacking and Jibing : Practice tacking (turning the bow through the wind) and jibing (turning the stern through the wind) to efficiently navigate the sailboat and maintain good speed.
• Sail Trim : Properly adjust the sail’s angle and tension to maximize its efficiency. Experiment with different sail settings to find the optimal trim for various wind conditions.
• Nosediving : If your RC boat is nosediving when sailing downwind , you may be overpowered. If you have a smaller rig, then you may want to change it so that you can better control your boat.
• Avoid Obstacles : Be mindful of obstacles such as rocks, buoys, wharves, and other boats while sailing to prevent collisions that could damage your sailboat.
• Learn from Others : Engage with the RC sailboat community, either in person or online, to learn from experienced sailors and exchange valuable tips and tricks.

Troubleshooting Common Issues and How to Address Them

• Unresponsive Controls : If your sailboat’s controls become unresponsive, check the batteries in both the boat and the remote control. Ensure they are properly charged and installed.
• Drifting Off Course : If your sailboat constantly drifts off course, check the rudder alignment and make sure it moves freely. Adjust the rudder angle as needed for better control.
• Sails Not Catching Wind : If the sails are not catching wind effectively, check for any obstructions or entanglements. Adjust the sail trim and position to optimize wind capture.
• Water Leakage : If you notice water inside the hull, inspect for cracks or loose fittings. Apply waterproof sealant to potential entry points to prevent further leakage.
• Low Battery Warning : Pay attention to low battery warnings from your sailboat’s remote control system. Avoid pushing the battery to its limits and return to shore promptly if the battery is running low.

RC Sailboat FAQs

What should i do if my rc sailboat stops responding to the remote control.

If your RC sailboat stops responding to the remote control, follow these steps: ·        Check the batteries in both the boat and the remote control. Ensure they are properly charged and installed. ·        Verify that the remote control is within the recommended range of the sailboat. ·        Check for any obstructions or interference between the remote control and the sailboat. ·        If the issue persists, try re-pairing the remote control with the sailboat according to the manufacturer’s instructions. ·        If none of these steps resolve the problem, consult the user manual or contact the manufacturer’s customer support for further assistance.

How can I improve the speed and performance of my RC sailboat?

To enhance the speed and performance of your RC sailboat: ·        Ensure the sail is correctly trimmed to catch the most wind efficiently. ·        If you have different-sized rigs, make sure you are using the optimum rig for the conditions. ·        Optimize the weight distribution on the boat to maintain proper balance. ·        Keep the hull and sail clean and free from debris to minimize drag. ·        Practice sailing techniques such as tacking and jibing to improve maneuverability and speed.

Are there any specific tips for sailing my RC sailboat in different weather conditions, such as high winds or calm waters?

In high winds, consider using a smaller sail or adjusting the sail trim to reduce the sailboat’s speed and maintain better control. In calm waters, maximize the sail area and trim the sail for optimal performance with the little wind available. Practice tacking and jibing to efficiently navigate in various wind conditions.

What type of battery is best for my RC sailboat?

It is best to use rechargeable and high-capacity batteries with the appropriate voltage and capacity as recommended by the sailboat’s manufacturer. Lithium-ion batteries are often preferred due to their lightweight and high energy density, providing longer sailing times.

How do I troubleshoot water leakage issues in my RC sailboat’s hull?

To troubleshoot water leakage: ·        Check for cracks, chips, or damage on the hull and repair them with waterproof sealant. ·        Ensure that all access hatches and covers are tightly sealed to prevent water from entering. ·        Inspect the hull’s internal compartments for any loose fittings or openings that may allow water to seep in. ·        Dry the sailboat thoroughly after each sailing session to prevent water accumulation inside the hull.

How can I adjust the sail trim to optimize my RC sailboat’s performance under different wind conditions?

Loosening the sail and increasing the angle to the wind is suitable for light winds, while tightening the sail and reducing the angle is ideal for stronger winds. Experiment with different sail settings to find the optimal trim for various wind conditions and points of sail.

What safety precautions should I take while operating my RC sailboat near other boats or in public waterways?

Always be aware of your surroundings and avoid sailing close to other boats or crowded areas. Respect local waterway rules and regulations. Maintain control over your sailboat and be prepared to take evasive action if necessary. Consider using a brightly colored hull or sail to improve visibility.

Are there any local or online communities for RC sailboat enthusiasts where I can connect with other owners and share experiences?

Yes, there are various local sailing clubs and online forums or social media groups dedicated to RC sailboat enthusiasts. Joining these communities can provide you with valuable insights, tips, and opportunities to connect with other owners who share your passion.

Can I use my RC sailboat in saltwater, or is it better suited for freshwater sailing?

Most RC sailboats are designed for both freshwater and saltwater use. However, it is essential to rinse the sailboat thoroughly with fresh water after sailing in saltwater to prevent corrosion and damage to the components.

What is the typical lifespan of an RC sailboat?

The lifespan of an RC sailboat can vary depending on factors such as build quality, maintenance, and frequency of use. With proper care and maintenance, a well-built RC sailboat can last several years or even longer.

Are there any specific techniques or strategies for racing my RC sailboat competitively against other sailors?

Competitive RC sailboat racing requires skill, tactics, and a good understanding of sailing principles. Practice regularly to improve your sailing techniques, learn to read wind patterns, and strategize to gain a competitive edge. Joining local racing events and connecting with experienced racers can also provide valuable insights and experience.

The Choice of the Best RC Sailboat is Yours

Radio-controlled sailing boats are far from toys as they are built to be authentic miniatures (from 1/4 to 1/40 scale) of normal-sized racing boats. These smaller toy sailboat versions are popular with collectors and sailing enthusiasts but have in recent years become the focus of regular RC sailboat racing events held at an increasing number of clubs around the country. These races take place in lakes, ponds, and harbors, and can be just for fun or as competitive as the full-sized racing already is.

Unfortunately, not all of these products are available on Amazon, but that doesn’t mean that you can’t find them elsewhere… so have a look around and you might find one.

The quality construction of remote-controlled sailboats makes them strong and durable which means that a good quality small-scale boat will give you years of racing enjoyment. With the many varieties and styles already available, you can rest assured that you will be able to find something that you’re your style and budget. And with the growing popularity of the sport, who knows… maybe RC sailboat racing will one day become an Olympic-caliber sport.

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Brendan has over 30 years experience sailing dinghies, yachts, and windsurfers, but has recently started Laser sailing. "I found it difficult to find all the information that I needed when I started sailing my Laser, and I am sure that others have had the same problem. So I combined all the information I could into this website to help other Laser sailors get the most out of this sport. If you have any questions or comments, let me know... I will get back to you as soon as I can."

Are there anywhere rc sailboats of j class? Like endeavour and similar ones? Thank you

Hi Ioannis Thanks for your question. Sorry but I am not aware of any, but other readers may know where you can race J Class RC sailboats. Let us know if you find somewhere where you can race your RC sailboat. cheers

Jclass hulls, Nottingham, England, nylet sails, these two can sought you out with J class boats. Obviously, you’ll have to find a club that races them, but you can sail without racing

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The 9 Best Compasses

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A compass allows you to determine direction with the aid of a magnetized pointer that moves in relation to the Earth’s magnetic poles. There are many different kinds to choose from, whether you're looking for a baseplate compass with a free-spinning needle or a marine compass with a fixed needle and a floating compass card. Of course, digital compasses are becoming increasingly popular with many people relying on compass apps to help them navigate. Each type of compass is best for certain activities, whether you’re a competitive athlete, a keen hiker , or an urbanite looking for the quickest way to get across town.

Here, our picks for the best compasses on the market now.

• What to Look For

Why Trust TripSavvy

Best overall, suunto leader compass.

Includes detachable locking lanyard

Features adjustable declination correction

Small markings

While Finnish company Suunto may be synonymous with GPS fitness watches, they also make premium analog navigation devices like the M-3 D Leader hiking compass. This no-frills model has everything you need and is popular amongst backpackers and hikers for its reliability and toughness. It has been balanced for use in the Northern Hemisphere and features a high-grade steel needle with a jewel bearing. You'll also find both imperial and metric in 2-degree increments. The luminescent markings help you navigate in low-light conditions.

Best Budget

Turnonsport orienteering compass.

Great value

Lightweight and portable

Lacks some advanced features

Casual hikers or teachers who need to buy compasses in bulk will appreciate the affordability of the TurnOnSport Orienteering Compass. At just under $10, it’s a fraction of the price of other compasses on this list and is a great pick for newcomers to orienteering. A durable acrylic baseplate with an adjustable bearing, compass ruler, and magnifying glass comprise all the basic equipment you need. Its magnetic needle contains a liquid-filled capsule that allows it to swing fast and freely indicating north.

Best Baseplate

Silva expedition 4 compass.

Global needle can be used in all three magnetic zones

Includes slope card and distance lanyard

No liquid capsule to stabilize needle

Brought to you by another big name in the navigation tools industry, the Silva Expedition 4 Compass has been called the standard by which all other baseplate compasses are measured, and for good reason. This high-performance compass is for experienced navigators and professionals delivering precision, accuracy, and durability.

The transparent baseplate features practical navigational markings in both imperial and metric measurements in scales of 1:25k, 1:40k, and 1:50k. These markings and the graduation ring can be "activated" by a flashlight or daylight for up to 4 hours of night use. It also has rubber friction feet for added precision while working with a map.

Best for Diving

Oceanic wrist mount compass.

Compensates for motion

Reciprocal index point

Not an incredibly study strap

The Oceanic Wrist Mount Compass is purpose-built for scuba diving . It’s waterproof, saltwater-resistant, and capable of withstanding increased pressures at depth. Instead of a free-spinning needle, the compass features a printed card that floats in liquid and rotates according to your orientation. This design compensates for your movement and the motion caused by surge and current, making it much easier to read. A side window allows you to view bearings while keeping the compass level on your extended wrist.

The bearing indicators are large and easy to read, while direct and reciprocal index points are handy for swimming out and back on the same heading. A bright red lubber line indicates your direction of travel. The compass also has a luminescent display, which glows approximately seven times faster and longer than other materials. On night dives, charge the display with your flashlight for optimum visibility. Other dive-specific features include a glove-compatible ratchet bezel and an extra-long strap that fits over your wetsuit.

Best Marine

Turnonsport boat compass.

Suitable to rough marine conditions

Clearly visible lubber line

Somewhat bulky

Like dive compasses, marine compasses use a fixed needle and a moving card suspended in liquid rather than a conventional jewel-bearing spindle. The liquid absorbs motion and allows for accurate readings even in rough conditions, making them ideal for use on kayaks, canoes, and boats. The TurnOnSports Dash Mount Boat compass easily installs on any flat surface with EVA foam stickers or screws.

While it is a bit bulky in size, it remains light and rugged thanks to waterproof, corrosive-resistant ABS plastic. We also like its East-West and North-South compensators, which minimize external influences on the compass, leading to a more precise direction. The boat compass has two power cords that can connect to a 12V power supply and an incandescent light to support night navigation.

Silva Race 360 Jet Compass

Provides stable readings

Baseplate works well with maps

Thumb compasses are designed with competitive athletes in mind and fix onto your thumb, leaving your other hand free. The Silva Race 360 Jet Compass tips the scales at just 1 ounce, keeping your overall weight to a minimum. It offers impressive stability so that even when you’re cycling or running over rough ground, your reading remains accurate to +/- 1 degree. The 360-degree turnable capsule houses a jet needle that settles in record time—crucial in a race when every second counts. The capsule’s small size means it’s less susceptible to volume changes due to extreme temperatures and, therefore, less prone to bubble formation.

The minimalist, ultra-transparent design increases map visibility, while the thickness of the baseplate makes it capable of withstanding an active lifestyle. It’s also shaped for excellent contact between your thumb and the map. On the bottom of the baseplate, rubber friction feet help to prevent slippage. These compasses are right or left-hand specific.

Best iPhone App

Commander compass go.

Can be used with map backgrounds

Star chart function

Difficult to delete past locations

iPhone users who like the idea of a more complex offline app will love the free Commander Compass Go app. In conventional compass mode, it can be used with different map backgrounds to give an idea of what lies ahead. It also acts as a gyrocompass for finding true north and as a GPS receiver. Other handy features include a horizontal and vertical speedometer, an altimeter, and a gyro horizon calculator that tells you your orientation in relation to the Earth’s horizon.

You can also use the app to mark customized waypoints and navigate back to them later. When traveling to a waypoint, the app tells you the distance to your destination, direction, traveling speed, and estimated arrival time. Essentially, it works just like the GPS in your car. Those who like the idea of navigating by the stars can use the app’s star charts, while a sun, moon, and star finder come in handy for romantics searching for specific constellations.

Best Android App

Digital compass.

Google Play

Works offline

Suitable for basic navigation

Some complaints about calibration issues

Compass apps use your device's accelerometer to detect direction and the technology hasn't evolved much in the last ten years. They sometimes need to be calibrated and will work better with the interference of a magnetic case.

Simple and straightforward, the Digital Compass app by Axiomatic Inc. supports longitude, latitude, and direct addresses. Plus, it displays both true and magnetic north and includes a magnetic strength meter, slope level meter, and sensor status. The developer strongly advises against using a magnetic cover as this will decrease its performance.

Best Novelty

Vikano survival bracelet watch.

Waterproof up to 50 ft

Some reports of analog watch issues

Versatile, lightweight gear is perfect for outdoor, wilderness activities. This Survival Bracelet Watch combines five useful tools into one, in under five ounces. The small compass provides accurate enough readings to help you get your general bearings. Its paracord strap is adjustable and can be unwoven for about 10 feet of multipurpose rope—think a makeshift washing line or an improvised emergency shelter. You also get a watch equipped with an alarm and calendar, a steel sheet fire starter that doubles as an emergency knife, and a whistle.

What to Look for in a Compass

Easy to read.

You'll want to ensure that the compass is easy to read. You'll want one with a needle or card that is easy to see against the 0- to 360-degree lines. Other visibility features you should look out for are a transparent baseplate so you can use the compass over a map and luminescent indicators so you can use the compass in the dark.

Extra Features

Other important features to look out for are declination adjustments and a clinometer. The declination adjustment feature will compensate for the difference between true north and magnetic north. A clinometer will allow you to measure the steepness of a slope to help you determine the risk of an avalanche.

Whether hiking up a mountain or kayaking in the sea, you need to ensure the compass you're buying will last through your trips. Look for compasses that are shockproof, waterproof, sand proof, and will be unaffected by extreme temperatures.

A compass rose is the figure on a compass that displays the orientation of north, east, south, and west. They can vary in the number of points they have. An 8-point compass rose includes points for intermediate orientations, such as northeast or southwest. There are also 16-point and 32-point compass roses that provide even more specific direction.

A compass works by detecting Earth's magnetic fields. At the center of the Earth is an iron core that is part liquid and part solid. The magnetic field arises from motion in the liquid outer core. This field has north and south poles. A compass has a magnetized needle, and the north end of that needle is attracted to the north pole of Earth's magnetic field.

If you know what direction north is, you can adequately orient yourself and go about your travels. However, it's important to keep in mind that there's a difference between magnetic north and the geographic North Pole. On top of that, Earth's magnetic north changes and even varies geographically, which can interfere with a compass' accuracy.

Jessica Macdonald lives in South Africa's Eastern Cape province, where she has honed her skills as a freelance writer specializing in travel, scuba diving, and wildlife conservation. Previously, she worked as a PADI scuba instructor, diving with sharks at Aliwal Shoal near Durban. Since 2016, Jessica has been TripSavvy's Africa Expert.

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