double hull sailboat

Yachting Monthly

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Best multihulls: We pick the best two and three hulled yachts

• Rupert Holmes
• June 29, 2022

Rupert Holmes picks the best multihulls for cruising focussing on the most popular and interesting mid-size multihulls from 37-43ft

Few of us can have failed to see the rapid growth of interest in multihulls and this formerly niche sector is now a mainstream part of the new boat market.

Much of the appeal is obvious and is unchanged from the reasons for the popularity of Prout and other catamarans in the 1970s and 1980s, including spacious single-level living spaces offering great views. Today’s boats are also characterised by expansive outdoor seating and entertaining areas. These areas benefit from the near-universal adoption of the same fabric technology that enables motor yachts to leave cockpit cushions outside in all weathers.

Superior space

The full forward cockpit featured on a number of heavier and larger designs may appear to be a gimmick at first sight, yet they are practical in a number of ways. Firstly, a separate area can be ideal when sailing with larger complements of people on board – teenagers for instance may value a separate area. Other popular attributes include the amount of stowage on deck – ideal for those who want to carry a lot of watersports equipment.

In addition to decent cockpit lockers, you can expect to find a pair of deep lockers at the front of the bridge deck, plus further stowage in the bows. On boats above 42ft these areas are often large enough for conversion to single cabins, although it’s worth remembering that putting too much weight forward will compromise performance and the motion of the boat at sea.

Easy handling both under sail and power is an equally important theme. Twin engines make a cat easy to spin in its own length and handling in reverse is as easy as going ahead. This set-up also offers a degree of redundancy – if one engine fails you will often be able to reach port using the other one.

In some cases the nav station in the bridge deck saloon is an ideal place from which to con the boat while on watch in inclement conditions, making these boats as good as a conventional motor sailor in this respect, but with the potential for much better sailing performance. However, some designs lack the all-round visibility to make this feasible.

The International Multihull Show, which takes place in April at La Grande Motte, France, is a must for anyone serious about buying a new or recent boat. Although the show has a compact feel, it’s the only place in the world where dozens of multihulls of the same size can be compared side by side.

The impact of COVID

The British brokers I met at the show were universal about their experience of the UK market, which has changed considerably post Covid.

Their biggest client base for multihulls are now owners with plans for long-distance cruising. The increase in people working from home is also attracting a younger clientele than typical boat buyers, which is helping boost demand to unprecedented levels.

‘We’re seeing a big change in the way people are buying boats and what they’re looking for,’ Graham Laver of Ancasta, Lagoon’s UK agent, told me. ‘Most are not weekend sailors and don’t need a permanent berth – they have a lot more time on their hands.’

A scarcity of suitable berths in parts of the UK is therefore not a hindrance on this part of the market.

The major catamaran builders largely disregarded boats under 40ft for many years; however, there are welcome signs this attitude is changing. The Excess 11, unveiled at the 2020 Düsseldorf boat show, is a 37-footer by a new Groupe Beneteau brand that’s aimed at a younger audience than typical buyers of this value. It’s Excess’ first all-new design – the earlier 12 and 15 were based on the bottom third of Lagoon hulls, although almost everything above the waterline was new.

As with the two older models, there are helm stations aft in each hull, with wheels positioned right above the rudder stocks to produce the most direct feel possible.

The boat also has excellent visibility from the helm and is noticeably better in this respect than most cruising catamarans. Interior accommodation includes a well-proportioned bridge deck, with very generous headroom. There’s space for a decent galley, a full-size internal saloon area and a forward-facing navigation station.

On the downside, it lacks space for the ease of circulation of people seen on some larger boats and will therefore have more of an ‘excuse me’ factor when sailing with a full complement of crew.

Sensibly no attempt has been made to create peninsula beds in the aft cabins, so despite the boat’s relatively modest size both double beds measure a massive 2m by 2m. The huge stowage volumes under the bunks are easily accessed thanks to hinged top panels supported by gas struts, which enables far more of this space to be reached easily than the typical single drawer in the bunk front.

On the three-cabin design the starboard hull is given over to the owner’s suite, which includes a good desk/dressing table area and lots of extra stowage. Perhaps surprisingly, this doesn’t have the feel of living in a narrow tunnel – it’s a wide rectangular area that offers more comfort and practicality than many larger yachts.

Excess is also engaging directly with its client base via the Excess Lab. The online element of this discusses key issues that impact design choices, allowing the boating public to present its views in a way that helps inform development of new models. Recent topics include the balance between draught and windward performance, self-tacking jibs vs genoas, and refrigeration.

Excess 11 specifications

Price: €310,660 ex VAT LOA: 11.42m / 37ft 5in Hull length: 11.33m / 37ft 2in Beam: 6.59m / 21ft 7in Draught: 1.15m / 3ft 9in Displacement: 9,000kg / 19,800lb Builder: excess-catamarans.com

The chances are that if you’ve sailed multihulls of around 40-44ft at least one of them may have been a Lagoon. More than 800 Lagoon 42s have now been delivered, with the model proving equally popular with private and charter owners. It offers lots of space, even by multihull standards, in three- or four-cabin layouts.

Large platforms aft make boarding from a pontoon, quay or tender easy, while the big cockpit has multiple seating areas and plenty of space for easy circulation of people. There’s also a neat lifting system for the dinghy. The boat is sailed from a raised helm position on the port side, which has direct access to the winches. The two-person helm seat is configured to work well both when seated and when standing.

While this ease of sail handling is a key attraction for owners of most cruising- oriented multihulls, a downside of some raised helm stations is they can feel very removed from other people on board.

This can make others on board feel like passengers who are not fully involved in the sailing. Unlike a number of boats of this size, there’s no forward cockpit, but there is foredeck space for sunbeds that forms a separate area for socialising.

Interior bridge deck accommodation includes a decent galley to starboard, plus a generous forward saloon. This has a great view forward and to the sides, although vision is obstructed on both quarters, which limits the usefulness of the forward chart table as a place from which to con the boat when on watch in bad weather.

Even by the today’s standard of catamaran, accommodation in the hulls is very generous. The boat at La Grande Motte had the classic four-cabin, four-bathroom charter layout. Both aft cabins rival those of the owner’s cabin of many 50ft monohulls thanks to big peninsula beds and plentiful stowage. These are also airy and very well lit spaces, with an overhead hatch, big hull window and wide stern window.

Lagoon 42 specifications

Price: €426,600 ex VAT LOA: 12.80m / 42ft 0in Beam: 7.7m / 25ft 3in Draught: 1.25m / 4ft 1in Displacement: 12,100kg / 26,700lb Builder: cata-lagoon.com

The Neel range of trimarans is one of the most eye-catching of modern multihulls. The basic philosophy is hugely appealing – use performance trimaran hull shapes to create a platform for a spacious cruiser, while keeping the boat as simple as possible. Weight is also minimised, but in a practical way that doesn’t resort to eye- wateringly expensive high tech solutions.

I sailed one of the first 43s from La Rochelle last summer and found it a surprisingly rewarding boat to sail, with a feel on the helm akin to that of a monohull, yet it was significantly faster. On a reach in 14 knots of true wind we made a very relaxed 10 knots of boat speed reaching under only mainsail and jib. When the breeze picked up to 16-17 knots we were hitting a consistent, but relaxed, 11.5 knots at a true wind angle of 115º with an asymmetric spinnaker set.

Heel angles are greater than for a catamaran, as lifting the windward ama out of the water is an enormous help in reducing wetted surface area. However, monohull sailors will find the heel very modest and once it reaches 12-14º the boat is rock steady, even in gusts.

The amas of the 43 are too small for accommodation, so this boat has a largely open-plan layout, although the owner’s cabin is in a separate area to starboard on the bridge deck. There’s also a double berth to port that would make an ideal den area for kids, plus a further small double cabin forward at a lower level in the main hull.

A key feature of all Neels is a separate engine room and technical area below the saloon in the main hull, which is ideal for maintenance and fault-finding.

These are often thought to be expensive boats, yet the 43 is priced at a similar level to many other multihulls of this size. It’s perhaps no surprise they are leaving the factory at the rate of one a fortnight.

Neel 43 specifications

Price: €359,000 ex VAT LOA: 12.9m / 42ft 4in Beam: 7.4m / 24ft 3in Draught: 1.5m / 4ft 11in Displacement: 9,000kg / 19,800lb Builder: neel-trimarans.com

Nautitech open 40

This innovative boat set new standards when it was first launched and was a key influence in establishing the DNA of the open concept, with a big indoor/outdoor area aft under a hard top, combined with a smaller saloon forward. The effect is to create a huge outdoor living space that provides shelter from the elements – whether intense sun or rain.

Today’s version still has the original hull shape, marrying this with an updated and restyled deck, plus improved interior design. Twin aft helm stations that provide excellent visibility by multihull standards are also an important element. They also enable easy contact with the rest of the crew while you’re steering and there’s little barrier to stop them pitching in to help with deck work. This is therefore a sailors’ boat, with relatively narrow, easily driven hulls, high bridge deck clearance and deep rudders, even though it has fixed keels and not daggerboards.

Of course the nature of this boat means there’s less space for fully enclosed bridge deck accommodation. Nevertheless, it has a decent galley and in cold weather you can retreat into a cosy forward saloon, which has space for four to six people, plus an optional full-size drop-down dining table that makes a huge day bed. With an almost unobstructed 360° view, this also makes a good spot from which to con the boat in poor weather.

There’s a spacious and bright owner’s cabin in the port hull with a large double bed plus a dressing table/desk area. The starboard hull has a large double cabin aft and smaller one forward, which share a well appointed mid-ships toilet and shower. On some boats fitted out for long-term cruising the forward starboard cabin has been configured as office and/or workshop space.

Other boats in the range include a new 44 Open, which is based on similar principles, but has space for an impressively large galley and more volume in the hulls.

It also has numerous small improvements, including moving the mainsheet traveller from the hard top to the aft beam, which gives more precise sail control.

Nautitech open 40 specifications

Price: £404,795 ex VAT (sail away price) LOA: 11.98m / 39ft 4in Beam: 6.91m / 22ft 8in Draught: 1.35m / 4ft 5 in Displacement: 8,500kg / 18,700lb Builder: nautitechcatamarans.com

Marsaudon composites orc 42

A criticism often levelled at catamarans is that they lack feel on the helm and therefore aren’t fun to sail, but that’s not universally true. Lightweight boats with easily drivenhull shapes can be both quick and rewarding, with little of the noisy turbulence at the transoms and lack of pointing ability that can be associated with overweight models with grand accommodation and inefficient shallow keels.

This is the smallest in a range of three performance catamarans and was originally named the TS42. All three boats have direct tiller steering, combined with comfortable helm seats. They provide a great view of the sail trim, though the coachroof partially obstructs the view to leeward.

Despite offering 20-knot performance and the ability to cross the Atlantic in only 10 days, these boats also have lots of interior space. The 42, for instance, has a big bridge deck saloon, with a surprising large galley, plus an excellent forward-facing navigation station. When the weather dictates, this area is enclosed from the outer cockpit by canvas screens, thereby avoiding the need for heavy sliding doors. Equally, there are no moulded headlinings, though the deckhead can be faired to create a high-gloss finish that doesn’t add weight.

Both aft cabins have big double berths, while further forward the layout is flexible – owners can choose from additional double or Pullman style bunks, extra stowage, or extra-large heads and shower areas.

On the downside, these boats are built in small numbers on a semi-custom basis and lightweight construction, decent sails and quality deck gear are all expensive.

Marsaudon composites orc 42 specifications

Price: €520,000 ex VAT LOA: 13.05m / 42ft 9in Beam: 7.42m / 24ft 4in Draught: (fixed keel version) 1.5m / 4ft 11in Displacement: 6,400kg / 14,100lb Builder: marsaudon-composites.com

Fountaine-Pajot ISLA 40

Although launched last year, this model started life as the Lucia in 2016. However, it benefits from updates including a revised helm station that increases stowage – a move welcomed by many potential buyers looking at a boat for long-term cruising.

It’s raised up on the starboard side, with the wheel next to the halyard and sheet winches, making sail handling a simple matter when on watch alone. Steps up from the helm station give access to the hardtop for handling the mainsail, but there’s no option on this model for sunbeds up there.

There’s a large cockpit aft under the hardtop, with a substantial table on the port side. The foredeck has provision for sunbeds, but not a full forward cockpit. Stowage on deck is more restricted than on Fountaine-Pajot’s larger Astrea 42, but still far exceeds what’s available on most monohulls and includes two big bridge deck lockers, plus further space in the bows of each hull.

Bridgedeck accommodation includes a surprisingly large internal saloon, although this is achieved at the expense of a separate navigation station. The example at the show was a four-cabin, four head boat, but without separate shower stalls. Even so, to achieve this on a 40-footer is an impressive feat.

Both aft cabins have large peninsula beds, although floor space and stowage are reduced in size to give space for the two heads in each hull. Forward cabins have a double bed that tapers significantly at its forward end, but these are still far larger than the triangular forecabin vee berth of many monohulls.

Fountaine-Pajot ISLA 40 specifications

Price: POA LOA: 11.93m / 39ft 2in Beam: 6.63m / 21ft 7in Draught: 1.21m / 4ft 0in Displacement: 9,500kg / 20,900lb Builder: catamarans-fountaine-pajot.com

This 2020 design is another model that’s extremely popular in charter fleets. However, they are also sought after by private buyers and the numbers in the hands of individual owners will of course swell dramatically when they are sold on from charter operators.

As soon as you step on board this cat, it feels like a big boat for its size, with plenty of options for easy circulation of people. There’s arguably more separation between interior and exterior spaces than on many catamarans.

However, the Leopard 42 has a feature that few others offer in this size range. A full height door in the front of the saloon gives direct access to the large forward cockpit, which opens up the accommodation in a different way to most. This is also a semi-flybridge model, with an additional seating area on the hardtop that’s intended for use in port and at anchor.

A huge and very well appointed galley takes up almost half the saloon area and there’s further space under the floor to stow a considerable amount of dry supplies. There’s also a very good forward-facing navigation station/desk, although the internal seating area is relatively small.

The models that feature a three-cabin layout have a very impressive owner’s suite, which includes a large desk/dressing table, plenty of generous stowage and expansive floor space.

The other hull houses two double cabins, each with its own en suite and separate shower stalls. However, the downside of this arrangement is that there’s less scope to provide generous easily accessed stowage in these cabins.

Leopard 42 specifications

Price: POA LOA: 12.67m / 41ft 7in Beam: 7.04m / 23ft 1in Draught: 1.4m / 4ft 7in Displacement: 12,467kg / 27,485lb Builder: leopard catamarans.co.uk

This French yard set a standard by which all multihulls have subsequently been judged when it launched the Bali 4.3 Loft. It blends indoor and outdoor areas into a single vast space that can be closed off with the garage door-style aft bulkhead.

Since then the format has been greatly refined and the 4.2 offers impressively spacious layouts in both charter and owners’ formats. There’s also a full-size door to a spacious forward cockpit, with sunbeds extending the entire length of the solid foredeck.

Bali 4.2 specifications

Price: €424,780 ex VAT LOA: 12.84m / 42ft 1in Beam: 7.07m / 23ft 2in Draught: 1.22m / 4ft 0in Light displacement: 11,400kg / 23,100lb Builder: bali-catamarans.com

Aventura 37

This 20-year-old French-run but Tunisian-based company is one of the few that has actively addressed the market for smaller catamarans. The 37 is a semi-flybridge design with a big aft cockpit. It was launched a few years ago and is aimed at cruisers who want a spacious boat in a relatively compact package.

Nevertheless a key design criteria was an ability to sail at 7 knots in only 10 knots of true wind. The spacious accommodation includes lots of stowage, which includes a small walk-in wardrobe in the owner’s suite on three-cabin boats.

Aventura 37 specifications

Price: €237,500 ex VAT LOA: 10.9m / 35ft 9in Beam: 5.94m / 19ft 6in Draught: 1.2m / 4ft 0in Displacement: 7,900kg / 17,400lb Builder: aventura-catamarans.com

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Types of Sailboat Hulls

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

Sailboats come in numerous hull shapes. These include single-hull monohulls, along with double and triple-hull multihulls.

There are two main categories of sailboat hulls: monohulls and multihulls. Common monohull types include flat-bottom vessels, fin-keel racers, bulb and bilge keel cruisers, heavy semi-displacement sailboats, and dense full-keel displacement cruisers. Multihull designs include catamarans and trimarans.

In this article, we'll cover the most common types of sailboat hulls along with their best uses. We'll explain the difference between monohulls and multihulls, along with how keel shape influences sailboat performance.

We sourced the information for this article from sailing experts, hull shape guides, and the written wisdom of famous sailboat designers. Additionally, we researched sailboat sales figures to determine the most popular vessel configurations available today.

Table of contents

‍ Importance of Sailboat Hull Design

A sailboat is defined by its rig and hull shape. Sailboat hull shape is one of the deciding factors on how it will handle. Additionally, the shape (and displacement) of a sailboat hull can be used to determine its strengths and weaknesses. Learning about sailboat hull shape can help you understand what kind of boat you need and what your vessel is capable of.

You can easily categorize sailboats based on their hull shape. For example, a heavy deep-draft displacement hull is likely a slow, steady, and comfortable cruiser. In contrast, a sleek flat-bottomed sailboat or catamaran is likely built for speed and could easily outpace even the most nimble displacement cruisers.

The most common kind of sailboat is the monohull. When you think of a sailboat, probably think of a monohull. The term simply means that the vessel has one single hull and nothing more. This is in contrast to multihulls such as catamarans, which are easy to spot and differentiate from traditional designs.

Monohulls are popular because they work. They're easy to build and narrow enough to fit in most marina dock spaces. Monohulls are also generally easy to handle in a variety of conditions, both fair and foul.

One drawback of monohull designs is that they are not quite as stable as most multihulls, though monohulls can recover more easily from a serious roll or capsize. They also cost a lot less, as the vast majority of production sailboats ever constructed were of the same basic single-hull configuration.

Centerboards and Swing Keels

The windward performance of sailboats is greatly improved by the use of a long keel or centerboard. The centerboard is the most simple type of stabilizing device used on sailboats. Usually, the centerboard is simply a long fin that protrudes from the bottom of the hull.

The centerboard keeps the boat on track when the wind is not moving in the boat's direction of travel. This is why sailboats can sail at different angles to the wind without being pushed to the side. A key characteristic of centerboards is that they can be raised and lowered, which is convenient on small boats that need to be trailered or beached.

Swing keels are similar to centerboards in that they can be raised and lowered, though they pivot on a hinge instead of sliding up and down in a truck. Swing keels are either recessed into the hull or held in a housing just below it, which usually also contains much of the boat's ballast. Swing keel designs free up cabin space that would normally be occupied by a bulky centerboard trunk.

Centerboards and most swing keels are an alternative to a permanently affixed keel. They're generally not considered to be as seaworthy as other hull designs, so their use is confined primarily to inland and coastal cruising.

Monohull Sailboat Hull Shapes

When in the water, it's difficult to distinguish between the different types of monohull shapes. In most cases, you have to pull the boat out of the water to figure out what hull shape you're dealing with. Next, we'll go over the most common monohull sailboat shapes and their uses.

Flat-Bottom Sailboats

Flat bottom sailboats are the easiest to build and often the fastest. These vessels have a very shallow draft and are often lightweight, so they slide easily and quickly across the water. Flat bottom sailboats make excellent racing boats and 'gunkholers,' which are primarily used for camping and hopping between shallow Islands.

Flat bottom sailboats usually have centerboards or swing keels, which makes them great for shallow water, beaching, and towing on a trailer. The use of flat bottom sailboats is confined primarily to inland and coastal waters, as a flat bottom does not handle well in swells and rough weather. Flat bottom sailboats pound hard on chop, and they lack the low center of gravity that's necessary for good stability.

Fin Keel Sailboat Hulls

The fin keel is a popular alternative to centerboards, and vessels utilizing this low-profile hull shape have proven to be quite seaworthy. Fin keels are popular on fast racing boats and lightweight cruisers. A fin keel resembles a centerboard, but it usually extends much further from the base of the hull.

The majority of a sailboat's draft comes from the fin keel, as the hulls of these sailboats tend to be rounded and shallow. They resemble flat-bottom designs, but slight rounding significantly increases comfort. Fin keel sailboats are ideal for racing and coastal cruising, and some models can be used for extended offshore passages.

Bulb Keel Sailboat Hulls

A bulb keel sailboat hull usually resembles most fin keel varieties. The hulls of these vessels tend to be shallow and rounded, with a long and thin fin extending from the base of the hull. A bulb keel is essentially just a thin blade with a bulb on the bottom.

Bulb keels are different from fin keels as they usually contain additional ballast weight for stability. The hydrodynamic properties of bulb keels are proven to be efficient. As a result, these boats can also be quite fast. In a direct comparison, a vessel with a bulb keel will likely be more seaworthy than the same sailboat with only a fin keel or a centerboard.

Bilge Keel Sailboat Hulls

The hull shape of a bilge keel sailboat usually resembles that of a bulb or fin keel sailboat, with one major distinction. Instead of one long and thin keel descending from the center of the hull, a bilge keel sailboat has two lengthier fins offset on the port and starboard side.

The idea behind the bilge keel design is that when the vessel heels to one side, one of the two keels will be straightened out. This, in theory, provides better tracking and improves stability. It also distributes ballast evenly on both sides. Bilge keels can also improve motion comfort, and they can reduce the vessel's draft by a small margin.

Bilge keel sailboats offer a balance between seaworthiness and speed. These vessels can be used as bluewater cruisers and coastal cruisers. They can also hold their own in any yacht club regatta.

While a bilge keel sailboat may not be ideal for cruising the North Atlantic during the winter, it can certainly make a safe and comfortable passage maker that can gain a knot or two of speed above its heavier counterparts.

Semi-Displacement Sailboat Hulls

Now, we'll look at some true bluewater cruising designs. The semi-displacement hull features a long and deep keel that runs from about the center of the hull all the way back to the rudder. Semi-displacement hulls get deeper the further back you go, reaching their longest point at the very aft end of the boat.

The offshore benefits of a long and deep keel are numerous, as this hull shape provides an enormous amount of stability and a very low center of gravity. The design itself it's quite old, and it's featured on many classic cruising sailboats and workboats.

Though less common in the modern era than more contemporary fin keel designs, a traditional semi-displacement sailboat offers easy handling and enhanced motion comfort. Semi-displacement hulls tend to have a deep draft and therefore are not ideal for shallow water. They handle confidently in all conditions, though they usually aren't as fast as newer designs.

Displacement Sailboat Hulls

Displacement hulls, also known as full keel hulls, are the bulldozers of the sailboat world. These traditional vessels are deep, heavy, relatively slow, and capable of plowing through the roughest weather conditions.

Displacement hulls have a long keel that begins at the bow and extends all the way after the rudder. Like semi-displacement hulls, full keel sailboats offer excellent motion comfort and confident handling.

Displacement hulls have the best directional stability and downwind maneuvering abilities. Their handling is more forgiving, and they're less jumpy at the helm. Many of these boats heel gently and give the crew more time to respond to changing conditions.

The primary downside to displacement hulls is their high cost and sheer mass. Displacement boats are large and take up a lot of space. They're usually too tall and heavy for trailering, so they tend to remain in the water most of the time.

Displacement hulls aren't made to just sit at the dock or jump around the lake; they're designed for real-deal offshore sailing. They also have the roomiest cabins, as the hull extends further down and longer than any other hull shape.

Now, let's examine multihull sailboat designs and why you may want to consider one. Some of the earliest seagoing vessels had multiple hulls, usually featuring one long hull (occupied by the crew) and a small stabilizing hull off to one side.

Multihulls have only recently become popular, and they make up a decent portion of the modern production boat market. This is because of their numerous design benefits and spacious cabins. Multihulls are almost guaranteed to be more expensive than monohulls (both new and used), and the used market is still saturated with expensive luxury cruising sailboats.

Modern multihull sailboats feature a large pilothouse in the center and plenty of cabin space in each full-size hull. They offer excellent motion comfort and achieve very high speeds. Due to their wide beam, they provide spacious living spaces and excellent stability. Here are the two main types of multihull sailboats.

From above, a catamaran looks like two thin monohull sailboats lashed together and spaced apart. Fundamentally, that's exactly what they are. Except catamarans have a very shallow draft and the capability to reach very high speeds.

Catamarans have two hulls instead of one, and each hull is typically a mirror of the other. They achieve their space using width rather than length, so a 30-foot catamaran has significantly more interior room than a 30-foot monohull.

Their primary drawback is that, due to their width, catamarans usually require two standard dock spaces instead of one. But at sea, they don't heel over dramatically like monohulls, which makes them much more comfortable to eat, sleep, and cook inside of.

Trimarans follow the same basic design principles as catamarans, except they have a third hull in the center. From above, a trimaran looks like a monohull with two smaller hulls lashed to the sides. Unlike a catamaran, the primary living space of a trimaran is in the large center hull. Trimarans are essentially just monohulls with stabilizers on the side, resembling ancient sailing canoes.

Trimarans have the same spatial and stability benefits as catamarans, though they can achieve higher speeds and better sea keeping. This is because of the additional stability provided by the center hall. Trimarans tend to be costlier than catamarans, though many sailors believe that the benefits outweigh the cost.

Best Sailboat Hull Shape for Speed

If we take wave height and weather conditions out of the equation, the fastest sailboats are usually the longest. Sailboats are limited by hull speed and sail plan size regardless of their hull shape. That said, the fastest sailboats tend to be flat bottom monohulls, fin keel monohulls, and trimarans.

Best Sailboat Hull Shape for Motion Comfort

The best sailboat for motion comfort is the catamaran. These wide and seaworthy vessels 'stance up' and minimize rolling. They also come close to completely eliminating heeling.

Wide and stable multihulls are popular because they alleviate some of the most common complaints of sailors. Trimarans are also an excellent choice for comfort, as their stabilizers minimize the effect of rolling in heavy seas.

Most Seaworthy Sailboat Hull Shape

Today, many people consider multihulls to be the most seaworthy design on the market. However, seaworthiness is more than just average stability in rough weather. Many Sailors argue that traditional displacement sailboat hull designs are the most seaworthy.

Displacement hulls have a low center of gravity which improves their knockdown survivability. In other words, in the (rare) event of a displacement boat knockdown, the weight of the keel is more likely to swing the boat back up and out of trouble. Multihulls cannot recover from a knockdown, as they like the pendulum-like recoil ability.

Most Spacious Sailboat Hull Type

The most spacious hull sailboat type is the catamaran. Catamarans have two nearly full-size hulls (one on each side) plus a large central pilothouse that resembles the main cabin of a large powerboat.

Many typical catamarans fit an entire kitchen into the Pilot House along with four private births and two full-sized heads in its hulls. Some mid-size catamarans even come with a bathtub, which is essentially unheard of on equivalent monohulls.

Spaciousness varies on small monohulls. Larger cabins are usually found on bulb and bilge keel designs, as swing keel and centerboard boats need somewhere to hide their skegs. Centerboard boats are the least spacious, as the centerboard trunk must occupy the middle of the cabin space.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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17 Sailboat Types Explained: How To Recognize Them

Ever wondered what type of sailboat you're looking at? Identifying sailboats isn't hard, you just have to know what to look for. In this article, I'll help you.

Every time I'm around a large number of sailboats, I look around in awe (especially with the bigger ones). I recognize some, but with most of them, I'll have to ask the owner. When they answer, I try to hide my ignorance. The words don't make any sense!

So here's a complete list with pictures of the most common sailboat types today. For each of them, I'll explain exactly where the name comes from, and how you can recognize it easily.

So here's my list of popular sailboat types, explained:

Bermuda sloop, sailing hydrofoil, dutch barge, chinese junk, square-rigged tall ship, in conclusion, how to recognize any sailboat.

Before we get started, I wanted to quickly explain what you should look for when you try to identify a sailboat.

The type of sailboat is always determined by one of these four things:

• The type of hull
• The type of keel
• The number of masts
• And the type of sails and rig

The hull is the boat's body. There are basically three hull types: monohull, catamaran, and trimaran. Simply said: do I see one hull, two hulls (catamaran) or three hulls (trimaran)? Most sailboats are monohulls.

Next, there is the keel type. The keel is the underwater part of the hull. Mostly, you won't be able to see that, because it's underwater. So we'll leave that for now.

The sail plan

The last factor is the number of masts and the sail plan. The sail plan, simply put, is the number of sails, the type of sails, and how the sails are mounted to the masts (also called rigging ).

Sailboat are mostly named after the sail plan, but occasionally, a sail type is thrown in there as well.

So now we know what to pay attention to, let's go and check out some sailboats!

Dinghies are the smallest and most simple sailboats around.

They are your typical training sailboats. Small boats with an open hull, with just one mast and one sail. Perfect for learning the ways of the wind.

On average, they are between 6 and 20 ft long. Mostly sailed single-handed (solo). There's no special rigging, just the mainsail. The mainsail is commonly a Bermuda (triangular) mainsail. Dinghies have a simple rudder stick and no special equipment or rigging.

Dinghies are great for learning how to sail. The smaller the boat, the better you feel the impact of your trim and actions.

How to recognize a sailing dinghy:

• short (8ft)
• one Bermuda sail
• open hull design
• rudder stick

Common places to spot them: lakes, near docks

If you'd ask a kid to draw a sailboat, she'll most probably draw this one. The Bermuda Sloop is the most popular and most common sailboat type today. You'll definitely recognize this one.

How to recognize a Bermuda Sloop:

• triangular mainsail (called a Bermuda sail)
• a foresail (also called the jib)
• fore-and-aft rigged
• medium-sized (12 - 50 ft)

Fore-and-aft rigged just means "from front to back". This type of rigging helps to sail upwind.

Any sailboat with one mast and two sails could still be a sloop. Even if the sails are another shape or rigged in another way. For example, here's a gaff-rigged sloop (more on the gaff rig later):

If you want to learn all about sail rigs, check out my full Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types here. It has good infographics and explains it in more detail

The Bermuda sloop has a lot of advantages over other sailboat types (which is why it's so popular):

• the Bermuda rig is very maneuverable and pretty fast in almost all conditions
• it's really versatile
• you can sail it by yourself without any problems
• it's a simple setup

Common places to spot a sloop: everywhere. Smaller sloops are more common for inland waters, rivers, and lakes. Medium-sized and large sloops are very popular cruising boats.

Cutters have one mast but three or more sails. Most cutters are Bermuda rigged, which means they look a lot like sloops.

How to recognize a cutter:

• looks like a sloop
• two or more headsails instead of one
• commonly one mast
• sometimes an extra mast with mainsail

Cutters have more sail area, which makes them faster, but also harder to sail single-handed. There's also more strain on the mast and rigging.

Common places to spot a cutter: everywhere. Cutters are very popular for cruising.

They mostly have a Bermuda rig, which means triangular sails. But there are also gaff cutters and naval cutters, and some have two masts.

Here's an example of a two-masted naval cutter with an extra gaff mainsail and top gaff:

The Hydrofoil is a pretty new sailboat design. It's a racing sailboat with thin wing foils under the hull. These lift up the hull, out of the water, reducing the displacement to nearly zero. The foils create downforce and keep it from lifting off entirely.

This makes the hydrofoil extremely fast and also impressive.

The hydrofoil refers to the keel type. There are both monohull and multihull hydrofoils.

How to recognize a hydrofoil:

• it flies above the waterline and has small fins

Common places to spot a hydrofoil: at racing events

Famous catamaran: La Vagabonde from Sailing La Vagabonde

A catamaran is a type of cruising and racing multihull sailboat with two hulls. The hulls are always the same size.

Most catamarans have a standard Bermuda rig. The catamaran refers to the hull, so it can have any number of masts, sails, sail types and rig type.

How to recognize a catamaran:

• any boat with two hulls is called a catamaran

Common places to spot catamarans: coastal waters, The Caribbean, shallow reefs

The advantages of a catamaran: Catamarans heel less than monohulls and are more buoyant. Because of the double hull, they don't need as deep a keel to be stable. They have a smaller displacement, making them faster. They also have a very shallow draft. That's why catamarans are so popular in the Caribbean, where there's lots of shallow water.

Catamarans are nearly impossible to capsize:

"Compared with a monohull, a cruising catamaran sailboat has a high initial resistance to heeling and capsize—a fifty-footer requires four times the force to initiate a capsize than an equivalent monohull." Source: Wikipedia

How to recognize a trimaran:

• any boat with three hulls is called a trimaran

Trimarans have three hulls, so it's a multi-hull design. It's mostly a regular monohull with two smaller hulls or floaters on the sides. Some trimarans can be trailered by winching in the auxiliary hulls, like this:

This makes them very suitable for long-term cruising, but also for regular docking. This is great for crowded areas and small berths, like in the Mediterranean. It sure is more cost-effective than the catamaran (but you also don't have the extra storage and living space!).

Common places to spot Trimarans: mostly popular for long-term cruising, you'll find the trimaran in coastal areas.

Gaffer refers to gaff-rigged, which is the way the sails are rigged. A gaff rig is a rectangular sail with a top pole, or 'spar', which attaches it to the mast. This pole is called the 'gaff'. To hoist the mainsail, you hoist this top spar with a separate halyard. Most gaffers carry additional gaff topsails as well.

Gaff rigs are a bit less versatile than sloops. Because of the gaff, they can have a larger sail area. So they will perform better with downwind points of sail. Upwind, however, they handle less well.

How to recognize a gaffer:

• sail is rectangular
• mainsail has a top pole (or spar)

Since a gaffer refers to the rig type, and not the mast configuration or keel type, all sailboats with this kind of rigging can be called 'gaffers'.

Common places to spot a gaffer: Gaffers are popular inland sailboats. It's a more traditional rig, being used recreationally.

Schooners used to be extremely popular before sloops took over. Schooners are easy to sail but slower than sloops. They handle better than sloops in all comfortable (cruising) points of sail, except for upwind.

How to recognize a schooner:

• mostly two masts
• smaller mast in front
• taller mast in the back
• fore-and-aft rigged sails
• gaff-rigged mainsails (spar on top of the sail)

Common places to spot a schooner: coastal marinas, bays

How to recognize a ketch:

• medium-sized (30 ft and up)
• smaller mast in back
• taller mast in front
• both masts have a mainsail

The ketch refers to the sail plan (mast configuration and type of rig). Ketches actually handle really well. The back mast (mizzenmast) powers the hull, giving the skipper more control. Because of the extra mainsail, the ketch has shorter masts. This means less stress on masts and rigging, and less heel.

Common places to spot a ketch: larger marinas, coastal regions

How to recognize a yawl:

• main mast in front
• much smaller mast in the back
• back mast doesn't carry a mainsail

The aft mast is called a mizzenmast. Most ketches are gaff-rigged, so they have a spar at the top of the sail. They sometimes carry gaff topsails. They are harder to sail than sloops.

The yawl refers to the sail plan (mast configuration and type of rig).

Common places to spot a yawl: they are not as popular as sloops, and most yawls are vintage sailboat models. You'll find most being used as daysailers on lakes and in bays.

Dutch Barges are very traditional cargo ships for inland waters. My hometown is literally littered with a very well-known type of barge, the Skutsje. This is a Frisian design with leeboards.

Skutsjes don't have a keel but use leeboards for stability instead, which are the 'swords' or boards on the side of the hull.

How to recognize a Dutch Barge:

• most barges have one or two masts
• large, wooden masts
• leeboards (wooden wings on the side of the hull)
• mostly gaff-rigged sails (pole on top of the sail, attached to mast)
• a ducktail transom

The clipper is one of the latest sailboat designs before steam-powered vessels took over. The cutter has a large cargo area for transporting cargo. But they also needed to be fast to compete with steam vessels. It's a large, yet surprisingly fast sailboat model, and is known for its good handling.

This made them good for trade, especially transporting valuable goods like tea or spices.

How to recognize a Clipper:

• mostly three masts
• square-rigged sails
• narrow but long, steel hull

Common places to spot a clipper: inland waters, used as houseboats, but coastal waters as well. There are a lot of clippers on the Frisian Lakes and Waddenzee in The Netherlands (where I live).

This particular junk is Satu, from the Chesapeake Bay Area.

The Chinese Junk is an ancient type of sailboat. Junks were used to sail to Indonesia and India from the start of the Middle Ages onward (500 AD). The word junk supposedly comes from the Chinese word 'jung', meaning 'floating house'.

How to recognize a Chinese junk:

• medium-sized (30 - 50 ft)
• large, flat sails with full-length battens
• stern (back of the hull) opens up in a high deck
• mostly two masts (sometimes one)
• with two mainsails, sails are traditionally maroon
• lug-rigged sails

The junk has a large sail area. The full-length battens make sure the sails stay flat. It's one of the flattest sails around, which makes it good for downwind courses. This also comes at a cost: the junk doesn't sail as well upwind.

The cat rig is a sail plan with most commonly just one mast and one sail, the mainsail.

Most sailing dinghies are cats, but there are also larger boats with this type of sail plan. The picture above is a great example.

How to recognize a cat rig:

• smaller boats
• mostly one mast
• one sail per mast
• no standing rigging

Cat-rigged refers to the rigging, not the mast configuration or sail type. So you can have cats with a Bermuda sail (called a Bermuda Cat) or gaff-rigged sail (called a Gaff Cat), and so on. There are also Cat Ketches and Cat Schooners, for example. These have two masts.

The important thing to know is: cats have one sail per mast and no standing rigging .

Most typical place to spot Cats: lakes and inland waters

Famous brig: HMS Beagle (Charles Darwin's ship)

A brig was a very popular type of small warship of the U.S. navy during the 19th century. They were used in the American Revolution and other wars with the United Kingdom. They carry 10-18 guns and are relatively fast and maneuverable. They required less crew than a square-rigged ship.

How to recognize a brig:

• square-rigged foremast
• mainmast square-rigged or square-rigged and gaff-rigged

How to recognize a tall ship:

• three or four masts
• square sails with a pole across the top
• multiple square sails on each mast
• a lot of lines and rigging

Square-rigged ships, or tall ships, are what we think of when we think of pirate ships. Now, most pirate ships weren't actually tall ships, but they come from around the same period. They used to be built from wood, but more modern tall ships are nearly always steel.

Tall ships have three or four masts and square sails which are square-rigged. That means they are attached to the masts with yards.

We have the tall ship races every four years, where dozens of tall ships meet and race just offshore.

Most common place to spot Tall Ships: Museums, special events, open ocean

This is a bonus type since it is not very common anymore. As far as I know, there's only one left.

The Trabaccolo is a small cargo ship used in the Adriatic Sea. It has lug sails. A lug rig is a rectangular sail, but on a long pole or yard that runs fore-and-aft. It was a popular Venetian sailboat used for trade.

The name comes from the Italian word trabacca , which means tent, referring to the sails.

How to recognize a Trabaccolo:

• wide and short hull
• sails look like a tent

Most common place to spot Trabaccolo's: the Marine Museum of Cesenatico has a fully restored Trabaccolo.

So, there you have it. Now you know what to look for, and how to recognize the most common sailboat types easily. Next time you encounter a magnificent sailboat, you'll know what it's called - or where to find out quickly.

I loved this article. I had no idea there were so many kinds of sailboats.

i have a large sailing boat about 28ft. that im having a difficult time identifying. it was my fathers & unfortunately hes passed away now. any helpful information would be appreciated.

Jorge Eusali Castro Archbold

I find a saleboat boat but i can find the módem…os registré out off bru’x, and the saleboat name is TADCOZ, can you tell me who to go about this matter in getting info.thank con voz your time…

Leave a comment

You may also like, guide to understanding sail rig types (with pictures).

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

How Much Sailboats Cost On Average (380+ Prices Compared)

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The Definitive Guide to Sailboat Hull Types

If you’ve ever been on a sailboat or any kind of boat, one of the first parts of the boat you saw was its hull and you might not have even known it.

Simply put, the hull is the bottom part of a boat that rides in and on top of the water. When a sailboat is underwater, it’s accompanied by the keel and the rudder.

Just like knowing the different types of sails , knowing the hull type on your sailboat means you’ll have a better understanding of how your boat operates while it’s out on the water.

All in all, the hull of any boat is meant to keep the boat afloat and to ensure minimum resistance against the water while being propelled forward. Now let’s dive into the different sailboat hull types and even some other types of hulls in boats in general!

Main Sailboat Hull Types

There are two main hull types that we’ll be looking at that encompass the many other types of hulls that vary from these two main types.

Depending on the type of boat you have, you’ll be floating around with one or the other. We’ll take a look at what you can expect if your boat has either of these hull types.

Displacement Hulls

The most common sailboat hull type you’ll find out there is the displacement hull, which is very effective at pushing the water aside and powering through it during forward propulsion.

A displacement hull is often found not only on sailboats, but also fishing, freight, cruise, and other larger boats.

All boats that have a displacement hull will be limited in their speed based on the waterline length of the hull. Regardless of how much power you use, whether it’s from the wind or motor, the maximum speed can’t be increased.

This is why you’ll see people mention the waterline length of a boat’s hull when putting them on the market to sell.

The big advantage of having a displacement hull is that they require far less power to get moving across the water compared to the other main hull type; the planing hull.

What this means is that your boat will be able to cruise for a long time with the same amount of energy, which also allows you to carry more items on board.

Planing Hulls

It’s almost guaranteed that your sailboat won’t have a planing hull since they’re most commonly found on powerboats and personal watercrafts (PWCs), like jet skis.

Planing hulls allow the boat to lift itself out of the water, reducing drag and increasing the speed of the boat.

Almost any boat that’s equipped with a planing hull will be able to attain a speed much greater than a boat with a displacement boat.

The main reason for this is the lift that’s produced when traveling at high speeds which reduces drag on the water.

The maximum speed of a boat with a planing hull is dependent on the horsepower of the engine and how much of the hull can be removed from the water while still cruising.

The biggest advantage of having a planing hull is that your boat will be able to pick up speed quickly and reach a greater maximum speed.

This allows for shorter journey times. However, there needs to be a source of all that energy, which comes directly from a combustion engine. The faster a boat with a planing hull goes, the larger the cost of fuel will be.

How Planing Works

The way planing works is actually pretty interesting, so I thought I’d dive into it a bit. Even though a sailboat is virtually guaranteed not to have one, it’s always nice to know how other boats operate while out on the water.

1. Displacement

Before a boat with a planing hull actually planes, it starts out acting like a displacement hull.

As a matter of fact, a boat with a planing hull needs to reach a certain speed before it starts to produce lift. Before that happens, it’s essentially a displacement hull.

While a boat with a planing hull is picking up speed and lifting itself out of the water, it’s in a plowing mode.

You’ll know when a boat is in plowing mode when the bow of the boat is elevated and the boat is throwing a relatively large wake. The goal, however, is to move from plowing mode to planing mode, which requires further acceleration.

Once the boat with a planing hull reaches a certain speed, it’ll leave plowing mode and enter planing mode.

As I already described, planing is when the hull is gliding across the water with a smaller amount of the hull dragging in the water when compared to the previous modes. Different boats will start planing when reaching different speeds.

Common Sailboat Hull Styles

Now that we’ve gone over the two main types of hulls you’ll find in sailboats and other types of boats, we have a good foundation for the hull styles you’ll commonly see when out on the water.

There are three main hull styles that you’ll see quite often, so let’s take a look at those.

By far the most common hull style you’ll see on sailboats is the monohull, which is simply a single hull.

Traditionally, a sailboat will have a monohull and they can be found all over the place. It’s probably the style of hull that comes to most peoples’ mind when imagining a sailboat.

Monohulls on sailboats are virtually all displacement hulls. As we went over previously, this allows your sailboat to cruise for long stretches and has a greater efficiency compared to planing hulls.

However, most boats that exist on planet earth are monohulls, including powerboats, which can also be of the planing hull type.

When it comes to a monohull on a sailboat, the only way it can keep its stability is to have a proper keel attached to it.

A keel is a wing-like object that sticks out of the bottom of the hull in the water and provides a sailboat with ballast for stability. It’s important to understand how a keel works when operating a sailboat with a monohull since it’s one of the main reasons a sailboat can move forward without tipping.

There are certainly a lot of monohull sailboats out there, but there’s no doubt that you’ll also see your fair share of catamarans.

Catamarans are sailboats with two hulls and operate quite differently than their monohull cousin. Catamarans are known to be fast and are likely to outrun most monohull sailboats.

Unlike monohull sailboats, catamarans can be fitted with displacement hulls as well as planing hulls. However, even if they have a planing hull they can still produce a relatively good amount of cruising time and do so rather efficiently.

Catamarans are a bit different than monohulls in the sense that they can reach greater speeds. There are several reasons for this. For one, a catamaran doesn’t need a ballast for stability since the broad stance between the two hulls provides enough stability.

This means there’s no need for a large, heavy keel. Second, they’re often built out of lightweight materials that allow the boat to reach a higher maximum speed compared to heavier sailboats.

Also, if a catamaran has a planing hull, it’ll have the ability to produce lift resulting in reduced drag on the water and even greater speeds.

Unfortunately, catamarans do have the disadvantage of being more likely to capsize in unwanted high-wind situations.

Also, it’s very difficult for a catamaran to recover from capsizing as opposed to a monohull sailboat that has a good ballast from its keel.

You might have already guessed from the name, but I’ll state the obvious anyway. A trimaran is exactly like a catamaran but with three hulls instead of two.

Often times you’ll see a trimaran look like a monohull sailboat with a pair of hulls attached to its side.

Similar to a catamaran, trimarans can hit speeds much greater than your average monohull sailboat. As a matter of fact, they’re known to be “unsinkable” under the situation that the hulls on the port and starboard side of the central hull are completely filled up with water.

One of the coolest aspects of having a trimaran is that when it has a planing hull and/or a hydrofoil, the trimaran’s central hull will lift completely out of the water.

This gives it the effect that it’s floating across the air, which is the result of lift produced from the planing hull or a hydrofoil. It’s very cool to see this!

Sailboat Hull Bottoms

Apart from the main boat hull styles, like the monohull, catamaran, and trimaran, there are hull bottoms that pop up in the world of boating that can differ in style and function.

These hull bottoms are more of a deeper look at the hulls of a monohull, catamaran, or trimaran, so you can think of them more as a feature of any of the previously mentioned styles of hull.

Flat Bottom

A very common hull bottom for boats that are derived from the planing hull type is a flat bottom hull.

The flat bottom hull is considered to be one of the less stable styles of hulls, especially when confronted with rough waters.

However, you’ll often find them on boats that don’t necessarily ride in these situations, including fishing or taxi areas.

• Good for small lakes and rivers due to having a shallow draft.
• Able to hit relatively high speeds once entering planing mode.

Disadvantages

• Not good at handling choppy waters resulting in a rough ride.

Round Bottom

When it comes to sailboats, you’re most likely going to run into monohull sailboats that have a displacement style hull with a round bottom.

While these are the most common hull bottom for sailboats, they can also be found on smaller boats that are used for fishing, canoeing, and other similar kinds of boats.

• Easily moves through the water due to being a displacement hull type.
• When accompanied by a keel, it produces a great amount of stability from the ballast.
• Without a keel, it can roll when entering and exiting the boat as well as when waves are present.
• Less maneuverable compared to other hull styles.

Deep ‘V’ Bottom

If you’re operating a powerboat, then in all likeliness your boat has a planing hull with a deep ‘V’ bottom.

Since deep ‘V’ bottoms are found on planing hulls, these types of boats will be able to pick up speed quickly and at high maximums. This is the most common setup for powerboats out on the water.

This is the most common type of powerboat hull. This hull type allows boats to move through rough water at higher speeds and they provide a smoother ride than other hull types.

• Provides a smooth ride compared to its flat bottom rival.
• Good at handling rough water.
• Requires more power to plane compared to its flat bottom rival.
• Cannot handle sharp turns very well resulting in potential rolling or banking.

Multi-Chine Bottom

We took a good look at multi-hull styles like the catamaran and the trimaran earlier, which are the exact style of hulls that have a multi-chine bottom.

A multi-chine bottom is a great example of a displacement hull on either a catamaran or trimaran as it’s the most common bottom you’ll find.

• In a multi-hull boat, it has a great amount of stability due to its wide beam.
• In a multi-hull boat, it needs a large area when either tacking or jibing.

Main Parts of a Sailboat Hull

There’s some terminology I threw around while describing the many types of hulls a sailboat and other types of boats have.

As is the case with a lot of activities, learning the terminology is just something you have to do.

Thankfully, the terminology will eventually sink in overtime and eventually you’ll be able to ring off any hull terminology that comes up.

The bow is simply the most forward part of a sailboat and, thus, the very front of the hull.

The stern, conversely to the bow, is the most backward part of a sailboat and, thus, the very end of the hull.

The port side of a hull is the left side. I always remember this with the phrase “I left my port on the table”, with the port being wine.

This just so happens to also be the side where boats will have a red light turned on at night, which is the color of port wine.

The starboard side of a hull is on the right side.

Opposite the port side, in the evening boats will have a green light turned on and will be located on the starboard side of the boat.

Fore is a sailor’s way of saying “forward”.

Aft is a sailor’s way of saying “back”.

A transom is the aft-most (see what I did there?) section of the boat that connects the port and starboard sections of the boat.

The flare of a hull is where the hull starts to form a large angle the closer the hull gets to the deck.

The waterline is the line around the hull where the water touches when under a normal load.

Waterline Length

The waterline length, once referred to as the Load Waterline Length (LWL), is the length of the hull where the waterline is located.

This is not the entire length of the boat.

Length Overall (LOA)

The length overall (LOA) is, you guessed it, the overall length of the boat. This is measured from the tip of the bow to the end of the stern.

The freeboard is the space on the hull of a boat above the waterline and below the deck.

The draft is the length from the bottom-most part of a boat (the tip of the keel on a sailboat) and the waterline.

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10 Best Used Cruising Sailboats

• By John Kretschmer
• Updated: June 4, 2021

The appeal of offshore voyaging is difficult to explain to land people who can’t imagine life without basic human rights like copious quantities of hot water and unlimited data. It can even be challenging to explain to fellow sailors who think the notion of spending days or weeks at sea is a form of water­boarding, some kind of self-inflicted torture.

But for those of us who understand, who relish intimacy with the untamed wilderness that is the ocean and embrace self-­reliance and individual expression while accepting the ­dispassionate whims of Neptune, this is the good life.

There are two essential truths about this life: One, money does not matter. Cruising budgets and lifestyles reflect bank accounts with variously positioned commas; it’s the passages and landfalls that add up, not your investment portfolio. And two, a good bluewater sailboat — not necessarily an expensive boat, but a well-­designed, solidly built, imminently seaworthy boat that is only limited by your moxie and imagination — is the key to successful bluewater passagemaking.

So, to that second point, I’ve compiled a list of interesting and affordable cruising sailboats for serious voyaging. A list of 10 sailboats for any purpose, much less world cruising, is sure to evoke outrage from strong-minded sailors, who by nature tend to be a bit opinionated. Stand by before hurling insults my way, and let me explain. I have decided to stay away from the sailboats we know by heart, the iconic old boats that usually populate a list like this: the Westsail 32, Tayana 37, Shannon 38 and Valiant 40 (the last of which, with a bit of searching, can still be found at or just below $100,000).

My list of some of the best liveaboard sailboats is eclectic and includes a mix of well-known and obscure manufacturers, but all the boats are linked in three ways: All are top-quality vessels capable of crossing oceans. They’re affordable, although in a few cases you have to look for older models in less-than-stellar condition to stay below $100,000. Indeed, in some ways, this list of used sailboats is a function of age; most of the boats were priced at more than $100,000 when new but have dipped below our self-imposed threshold in middle age. And finally, they’re all boats that I have encountered in the past few years in far-flung cruising destinations .

Island Packet 35

Love them or loathe them, Island Packets are everywhere. To some, the beamy, full-keel, high-freeboard hull designs seem quaint, to put it charitably. To others, the robust construction standards, roomy interiors and overall user-friendliness make them the ideal cruising boat. More than most, sailing vessels are compromises, and Bob Johnson and his crew at Island Packet were brilliant in prioritizing the needs of sailors. The IP 35 was introduced in 1988 and features a huge cockpit, an easy-to-handle cutter rig with a jib boom, and a clever, comfortable interior with the volume of many 40-footers. It might not be the fastest boat upwind, but the long waterline translates to good performance off the breeze, meaning the IP 35 finds its stride in the trade winds. In all, 188 boats were built before production stopped in 1994.

Don’t confuse the IP 35 with the IP 350, which was launched in 1997 and included a stern swim step. You won’t find a 350 for less than $100,000, but you will have a choice among 35s, especially those built before 1990. With two nice staterooms, the 35 is ideal for family cruising. I know of a couple of 35s that have completed the classic Atlantic Circle passage. It’s perfect for a sabbatical cruise because it holds its value and there’s a ready market when it comes time to sell.

Prout Snowgoose 37

There’s no room for discussion: Catamarans are crossing oceans, and many sailors are choosing cats for world cruising. My last visits to the Azores and Canary Islands, the classic Atlantic waypoints, proved the point. I’m not much of a statistician, but by my count, at least a quarter and maybe a third of the boats I saw were catamarans. There would be more on this list, but they are just too expensive. Finding a quality catamaran for less than $100,000 is tough. One boat to consider is the classic workhorse multihull, the Prout Snowgoose 37.

When the Snowgoose 37 was launched in 1983, English builder Prout & Sons had already been in business for nearly 50 years. The 37 was an updated version of the Snowgoose 35, one of the most successful cruising cats ever. In 1986, the 37 was updated again; the Snowgoose Elite model included more beam and interior upgrades. These models are challenging to find for under $100,000, but it’s possible. A quick glance at yachtworld.com shows several of both models available for less than $100,000. Again, the strong dollar makes European boats an excellent value.

The Snowgoose 37 is not sexy like go-fast cats, and not roomy like modern cruising cats. It is, however, seaworthy. Of the 500 built, many have circumnavigated. Older boats have solid fiberglass hulls, and more recent models are solid glass from the waterline down and cored above. The cockpit is rather compact by catamaran standards, and the bridgedeck is solid (no tramp). Many 37s and all Elites were rigged with staysails, a big plus in heavy weather. The masthead-­rigged Snowgoose 37 can be sailed like a monohull offshore, and it’s quite nice not having a huge, roachy mainsail to wrestle with in a storm. With a 15-foot-3-inch beam for the 37 and a 16-foot-3-inch beam for the Elite, it’s easy to find affordable dockage and yards for haulouts. Most boats have three double cabins, making the Snowgoose 37 an ideal family cruiser.

The Corbin 39 is not as well known as it should be. It’s a capable bluewater sailboat cruiser with many impressive voyages logged. My Quetzal spent several weeks moored alongside a handsome 39 in Corfu that had sailed around the world, and I also spent a winter in Malta in the same boatyard as another 39 that had recently crossed the Atlantic. A canoe-stern, flush-deck pilothouse cutter, the 39 was offered with either an aft or center cockpit. Designed by Michael Dufour and constructed by Corbin les Bateaux in Canada, hull number one was launched in 1977. Built in various locations in Quebec, 129 boats were launched before a fire destroyed the deck tooling in 1982. A new deck with a larger cockpit was designed, and 70 more boats were laid up before production ceased in 1990.

The rub on the Corbin 39 is that the majority of boats were sold as kits with owner-­finished interiors. Kits varied from just hull-and-deck to “sailaway,” with everything fitted except the interior. Only 15 boats were finished at the factory. Not surprisingly, the interior quality is unpredictable, from rough-hewn lumberyard specials to beautifully handcrafted gems finished by marine professionals. The difference is reflected in the price. A nicely finished, well-equipped model from the mid-’80s typically sells for between $60,000 and $80,000.

The hull shape features a long fin keel and skeg-mounted rudder. The hulls are heavily laid up and include Airex coring. Early decks were plywood-cored, but most boats have Airex in the deck as well. Ballast is 9,000 pounds of internal lead, translating to a 40 percent ballast-to-displacement ratio. The wide flush deck is spacious, and the sleek pilothouse usually includes inside steering. Massive double anchor rollers are incorporated into the bowsprit in later models. Most boats include a double-­spreader spar, and almost all were set up as cutters. There’s plenty of freeboard, which becomes obvious below. While interior arrangements vary considerably, there’s a lot of room to work with. I prefer the post-1982 aft-cockpit 39s; they’re generally of a higher quality than earlier boats.

Cabo Rico 38

“The Cabo Rico 38 hull shape is the one in which everything came together best,” wrote Bill Crealock in his design notes. He might have changed his mind later in life, considering that the Cabo Rico was introduced in 1977 and he designed many boats after that, but few will dispute that this 38-foot cutter, built in Costa Rica, is flat-out beautiful. From the clipper bow to the sweet sheer to the abundance of honey-colored teak, the Cabo Rico 38 is a boat to inspire the most practical among us to quit their job, buy this vessel, and head for the South Pacific.

Not surprisingly, many people have done just that. Cabo Rico built 200 full-keeled 38s, with most of the production occurring in the 1980s. There’s always a selection of boats for sale for less than $100,000. Cabo Rico was an outlier among manufacturers of the time, building serious cruising boats in Central America instead of Taiwan, but quality control was always excellent. The full keel is slightly cutaway, and the rudder is attached to the trailing edge. The prop is in an aperture and totally protected, but not well suited to backing into a slip. Full-keel boats may make some younger sailors cringe, but the CR 38 has a very soft ride in rough seas and heaves to effectively. It also has a solid fiberglass hull with a layer of balsa for insulation. Sometimes it’s noted that the hull is balsa-cored, but it’s not. After about hull number 40, lead was used instead of iron for internal ballast. The deck is balsa-cored, however, and there’s a substantial bulwark. Items to be wary of are the teak decks (most 38s have them) and the fittings supporting the bobstay.

A true cutter rig, the 38 has just under 1,000 square feet of working sail area and performs better than most people suspect. The staysail was originally set on a boom that cluttered the foredeck and limited sail shape. Many boats have been converted with furling staysails sans the boom — a nice upgrade. When the wind pipes up, the 38 tracks nicely with a reefed main and staysail. I encounter 38s all over the Caribbean. They’re easy to spot; they’re the beautiful boats in the anchorage.

Tayana Vancouver 42

Ta Yang, builder of Tayana sailboats, has been building capable cruising boats forever, it seems. The Robert Harris-designed Tayana Vancouver 42 has been a mainstay of the serious cruising fleet since the day it was launched in 1979, and is still in demand today. The company built 200 boats, mostly in the ’80s and early ’90s, although a few V42s were built into the 2000s. With a bit of digging and some haggling, you can find boats for less than $100,000, but they’re likely to be older models. As of this writing, yachtworld.com has eight V42s listed, with three asking less than $100,000.

I’ve encountered the V42 all over the world, and in my yacht-delivery days, I had the pleasure of delivering a couple of 42s up the East Coast and down to the Caribbean. The double-ended hull shape with a fin-skeg underbody is stiff and seaworthy, if not wickedly fast. Considering the rugged construction, with a solid fiberglass hull and balsa-cored deck, nobody has ever accused Ta Yang of going light on its boats. Ballast is internal iron, a massive single casting that weighs in at 11,800 pounds. Ta Yang has evolved as a builder, and later models included upgrades like vinylester resin and larger Yanmar diesels.

A true cutter, the V42 has a double-spreader rig and is heavily stayed. The seagoing deck is cambered to shed water. Teak decks, with all their virtues and vices, were common; I’d look for a boat that’s been de-teaked. Like the Corbin 39, the V42 came with either a center or aft cockpit, although most boats were aft-cockpit models. The aft cockpit is deep and secure, if a bit tight due to volume sacrificed by the canoe stern. The center cockpit is cramped but offers excellent visibility. The interior is lovely, with exquisite Taiwanese joinery. Although interior arrangements vary because Ta Yang encouraged owner input, across the board, this is a friendly boat for living aboard. The aft-cockpit model includes one head and a traditional layout with excellent light and ventilation. The center-­cockpit model features a large owner’s stateroom aft.

Wauquiez Pretorien 35

The Pretorien 35 does not pay homage to tradition. The Euro-style low-slung wedge deck and flattish lines were thoroughly modern when the Pretorien was launched in 1979. Sure, there are IOR influences in this well-proven Holman & Pye design, including a slightly pinched stern, cramped cockpit, and a high-aspect, short-boom mainsail that results in a large fore­triangle. But a small main is easy to handle offshore, especially in squally conditions, and a large poled-out furling genoa provides a low-stress way to cross oceans. The test of a design is revealed long after the launch, and the Pretorien has aged brilliantly. It’s often mistaken for a Swan or Baltic. Famed voyager and author Hal Roth chose a Pretorien for his last boat.

Below the water, which is what really matters at sea, the Pretorien pushes the right buttons for serious sailing. A fine entry provides enough of a forefoot to prevent pounding in lumpy conditions, and as on the Valiant 40, the fin keel incorporates a stub to which the external ballast is fastened. The rudder is mounted well aft for excellent steering control, especially on a deep reach, and is tucked behind a narrow but full-length skeg. The Pretorien displaces 13,000 pounds, of which 6,000 pounds is ballast, translating to a stiff, seakindly boat.

The construction is superb. The solid fiberglass hull includes longitudinal stringers that stiffen the panels and encapsulate the bulkheads. Tabbing and fiberglass work is first-rate throughout. Wauquiez was one of the first builders to use solid laminate beneath high-load deck fittings. The side decks are wide and, with the chainplates well inboard, easy to navigate. The interior arrangement is conventional, but ample beam amidships helps create a surprisingly spacious feel below.

There were 212 Pretoriens built during a seven-year production run, so there’s usually a good selection of boats on the used market. Today’s strong dollar makes European Pretoriens an excellent value.

Gulfstar 44

Gulfstar had a terrible reputation in the early ’70s: It was infamous for producing wide-body motorsailers with tiny rigs and chintzy Formica interiors. Company founder Vince Lazzara was adept at reading market trends and upped his game in the late ’70s and ’80s. Lazzara, who also founded Columbia Yachts, was a veteran of the production-­sailboat wars and realized that buyers were demanding high-quality boats that sailed well. The Gulfstar 44 was launched in 1978, and 105 were sold before the company started producing the Hirsh 45 in 1985.

Some mistake the G44 for a Bristol, and it has a similar profile, right down to the teak toerail and raked cabin trunk. A sleek center-­cockpit design, the hull shape features a 5-foot-6-inch fin keel, a skeg-hung rudder and moderate proportions. I know the boat well, having delivered one from Bermuda to Annapolis and another from Fort Lauderdale to Boston. It has a nice ride in lumpy seas and powers up when the big genoa is drawing on a reach. The construction is typical of the time, with solid fiberglass hulls and cored decks. Gulfstars were known to blister, and it’s likely that any 44 you find will have had an epoxy bottom job along the way — and if it hasn’t, it will need one. The keel-stepped spar has an air draft of 55 feet. Some owners have modified the sloop rig with a staysail. The cockpit is roomy, especially for a center-cockpit design, although there’s not much of a bridgedeck. All sail controls are led aft. Lazzara was an early proponent of this feature, and the boat is user-friendly overall.

The interior sells the boat. It’s nicely finished in teak, and the layout is made for living aboard. The aft cabin includes an enormous double berth with an en suite head and stall shower. The main saloon is spacious and well ventilated, although beware of the plastic opening portlights. If you are looking for a comfortable, well-built center-cockpit cruiser but can’t find one that you can afford, track down a Gulfstar 44; you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

Any list of bluewater cruising sailboats must include a Robert Perry design. I could have easily put together nine Perry boats for this list. The Nordic 40 may surprise some, especially because 40 feet is an iconic length, bringing to mind such boats as the Valiant 40, Hinckley Bermuda 40, Bristol 40, Pacific Seacraft 40, Passport 40 and others. The trick is finding a 40-footer for less than $100,000. Nonetheless, the Nordic 40 and its larger sister ship, the 44, are among my favorite boats.

Based in Bellingham, Washington, Nordic produced world-class yachts during its brief production run in the 1980s. Only 40 Nordic 40s were launched between 1982 and 1987, but they’re worth seeking out on the used-boat market. The 40 features the classic double-ended Perry hull shape, with a fine entry, a deep and powerful fin keel, a skeg-mounted rudder positioned well aft, and a reverse transom. Freeboard is moderate and the sheer line is subtle, but to my eye, with its double-spreader rig and gently sloping deck line, the boat is poetry in the water.

The hull is solid fiberglass and the deck is balsa-cored, with solid laminates below loaded-up deck fittings. Original boats came with Navtec rod rigging and a hydraulic backstay, but many have been upgraded by now. Sail-control lines are led aft to the compact but functional T-shaped cockpit. The traveler is forward of the companionway, allowing for a cockpit dodger. The Nordic 40 is nimble in light to moderate breeze but can also stand up in a blow and heave to decently.

The interior is well suited to a cruising couple. It’s really a two-person boat, with a V-berth forward and large C-shaped galley aft, with plenty of counter space and a huge fridge. It includes the normal deft Perry touches — excellent sea berths, a separate stall shower and generous tankage. If you do find a Nordic 40 on the used market, be sure to take a hard look at the Westerbeke diesel and the V-drive transmission.

Pacific Seacraft 34

A handsome, nimble and capable double-ender by legendary designer Bill Crealock, the Pacific Seacraft 34 is well proven, with scores of ocean crossings in its wake.

After the boat was first launched as the Crealock 34 in 1979, Pacific Seacraft introduced a fifth model years later, a scaled-down version of the popular PS 37. Though expensive at the time, the 34 was another success story for one of America’s premier builders, and hundreds of boats were built in the company’s yard in Santa Ana, California. There is always a good selection of used boats available for less than $100,000. Another nice perk for used-boat buyers is that the 34 is back in production at the reincarnated Pacific Seacraft yard in Washington, North Carolina, providing an outlet for parts and advice. The company is now owned and operated by marine archaeologist Stephen Brodie and his father, Reid.

The 34 blends traditional values above the waterline with what was then a more modern underbody, with a long fin keel and skeg-hung rudder. A bit hefty at 13,500 pounds of displacement, the design otherwise is a study in moderation, and drawn with a keen eye toward providing a soft ride in a seaway and staying on good terms with Neptune in a blow.

The hull is solid fiberglass, and early decks were plywood-­cored before Pacific switched to end-grain balsa. The hull-to-deck joint incorporates a molded bulwark that offers added security when you’re moving about on deck, and a vertical surface for mounting stanchions.

Most 34s are cutter-rigged for versatility but carry moderate-­size genoas instead of high-cut yankees for more horsepower off the wind. Down below, the layout is traditional, but the 6-foot-4-inch headroom is a pleasant surprise. The Pacific Seacraft 34 is perfect for a cruising couple.

John Kretschmer is a delivery captain, adventurer and writer, whose own boat Quetzal , a 1987 Kaufman 47, has seen a refit or two over the years. His latest book is Sailing a Serious Ocean: Sailboats, Storms, Stories and Lessons Learned from 30 Years at Sea , also available on his website .

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Multi-Hull Power Boat

Multi-hull powerboats are generally referred to as “power catamarans” because most of these designs ride on two h ulls . You may find a power trimaran with three hulls, but they’re rare. Technically, pontoon boats , which are open deck boats built on twin metal flotation tubes are also multi-hull powerboats and pontoon boats with three tubes are called “tri-toons”. 

Power cats have become extremely popular in recent years for multiple reasons: they offer more deck and cabin space than a monohull powerboat of the same length, they tend to be more fuel efficient since they don’t drag heavy ballast through the water, they’re very maneuverable since their engines are set wide apart eliminating the need for a bow thruster (a propeller that provides side thrust and therefore maneuvering control), they’re very stable at rest so you can get a good night’s sleep in a rolly anchorage, and often people feel less seasick on multi-hulls because they have a different motion on rough water.

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Activities with Multi-Hull Powerboats

GREAT FOR Saltwater Fishing  • Day Cruising

What you do with a power cat will depend on the brand, size and design of the vessel. Smaller center console cats with an open deck and a steering station in the middle may be perfect for fishing or diving and since they don’t roll, they induce less fatigue throughout the day. 

Larger power cats may be designed to coastal cruise or cross oceans so they’ll have a galley (kitchen), multiple heads (bathrooms) and usually three to four sleeping cabins typically found in the deep hulls. Because power cats are large, stable platforms, they’re an excellent choice for families with small children or older, less mobile passengers. 

Pontoon boats have gained market share recently due to their increasingly better construction and an added tube that makes them more buoyant. They can carry larger engines that make them faster and able to engage in towing sports like wakeboarding and water skiing. Pontoon boats are usually used for family lake boating and entertaining. Their small metal hulls or tubes cannot be accessed like those on cruising power cats.

Ownership Costs of Multi-Hull Powerboats

The size, age, brand, overall design and onboard equipment will dictate the purchase price of a multi-hull powerboat. In addition to the initial price, you’ll need to estimate the cost of outfitting like electronics that are often priced separately. Our Boat Loan Calculator can help you see if the costs of ownership fall within your budget.

Where multi-hulls can get expensive is dockage since many larger models won’t fit into a standard width slip and will require an end tie (usually found at the end of a dock or bulkhead ). These spaces are limited in supply and therefore more costly. Smaller fishing cats and pontoon boats may add the cost of a trailer (but that in turn, may save on dockage fees). Ship’s registration with your state authority or documentation from the U.S. Coast Guard will also add a small fee.

Normal maintenance for all boats includes interior and exterior cleaning, bottom scraping, hull polishing and waxing, and so on. Keep in mind that you’ll be paying these services for basically two boats since there are two hulls. Most larger power cats have redundant systems ( bilge pumps, fresh water pumps, battery banks, engines, etc.) and that provides a backup system if one fails. However, with more equipment comes more general maintenance time as well as repair cost.

Power cats need fuel although their engines are often smaller and therefore cheaper to feed. If the boat is large enough to require paid crew, that will add to the cost of operation as well.

Multi-Hull Power Boat Technology/Materials/Features

Due to advances in construction techniques, today’s multi-hull powerboats are lighter but stronger so they can carry more and go faster and they’ll age better than their predecessors. Large cruising cats will have generators to charge batteries, sophisticated navigation and communications electronics, full galleys, watermakers (desalination equipment) electric toilets and many other comforts of home, which make them ideal for extended cruising.

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Tayana 37s traditional approach still draws big dreamers

With several hundred boats sailing the seas of the world, the Tayana 37 has been one of the most successful products of the U.S.s Taiwan-built boat invasion that began in the early 1970s. Its shapely Baltic stern, scribed plank seams molded into the glass hull, and lavish use of teak above and belowdecks have come to epitomize the image associated with Oriental boats.

Not all thoughts of Far Eastern boats are pleasant, however. To some, Taiwan-built boats mean poor workmanship, overly heavy hulls, unbedded hardware of dubious heritage, wooden spars that delaminate, and builder-modified boats lightyears removed from the plans provided by the designer. Add to that a serious language barrier and the inevitable logistical problems of dealing with a boatyard halfway around the world, and you have a readymade nightmare for the boat buyer. To the credit of the builder, the designer, the primary importer, and a powerful owners association, the Tayana 37 has weathered an astounding production run while making steady improvements and maintaining a steady output with about 600 boats in existence.

Washington-based boat designer Bob Perry had just hung out his own shingle when he designed Tayana 37 in the early 70s. The Sherman-tank Westsail 32 had just come lumbering onto the scene, bringing with it a resurgence of interest in the double-ended hull form, and more people than ever before were beginning to have the dream of chucking it all and sailing away to a tropical paradise.

Perry has become an enormously successful designer of cruising boats, from traditional, full-keel designs such as the Tayana 37 to modern, fin-keel cruisers such as the Nordic 40, GoldenWave 42, and the Valiant 40. A remarkable number of his designs have been built in the Orient, in both Hong Kong and Taiwan.

Perry conceived the Tayana 37 as a cruising boat of traditional appearance above the water, with moderately heavy displacement, a long waterline, and a reasonably efficient cutter rig of modern proportions. (A ketch rig was also available). Below the water, the forefoot of the long keel has been cut away, and a Constellation-type rudder was utilized rather than a more traditional barn door. Perry sought to cash in on the popularity of the double-ended hull while keeping displacement moderate and performance reasonable, avoiding the plight of boats such as the Westsail 32-the inability to go to windward and sluggish performance in anything short of a moderate gale. The stern design of the Tayana 37 borrows heavily from the well-known Aage Nielsen-designed ketch, the Holger Danske, winner of the 1980 Bermuda Race. It is one of the more handsome Baltic-type sterns on any production sailboat.

The Tayana 37 began life as the CT 37. In 1979, the boat became known as the Tayana 37, named for Ta Yang Yacht Building Co. While some snobbishness exists among owners who own the CT version, Perry has insisted that this is illusory. According to the designer, the CT 37 and the Tayana 37 are the same boat, built by the same men in the same yard. In much the same way that the early Swans imported by Palmer Johnson were known by the name of the importer-the names Nautor and Swan were unknown here in the late 1960s-early Tayanas were known as CTs because the name CT had already become known in this country.

Perry, who worked with many yards in the Far East, considers Ta Yang one of the best. The yard always was very responsive to input from both dealers and owners. Over the years, this resulted in steady improvement in the quality of the boat.

Handling Under Power

Three different engines have been used in the Tayana 37: the Yanmar 3QM30, the Perkins 4-108, and the Volvo MD17C. The latest change was to the Yanmar as standard propulsion. This makes good economic sense, as Japan is closer to Taiwan than either England or Sweden.

Although all of the engines offer adequate power for the boat, don’t expect the Tayana 37 to win any drag races. With her substantial wetted surface and fairly heavy displacement, performance under power is sedate rather than spritely. Owners rate handling under power as fair to good, although one reported that his boat backs up like a drunken elephant.

While the engine box removes completely to provide good access for service, there is no provision for easy access to the oil dipstick. This means that this vital task is likely to be ignored. A simple door in the side of the engine box would solve the problem.

The placement of the fuel tank also has caused substantial discussion on the part of owners. The standard 90-gallon, black iron tank is located under the V-berth in the forward cabin. When full, this tank holds almost 650 pounds of fuel. This is about the same weight as 375 feet of 3/8-inch anchor chain-a substantial amount to carry around in the bow of a 37-footer. A Tayana 37 with the bow tank full and a heavy load of ground tackle will show noticeable bow-down trim. The design was originally drawn with the fuel tanks under the settees, but the builder put the tank forward to create additional storage in the main cabin.

This is a good example of one of the basic recurring problems with Far East-built boats. Frequently, the builders have good glass men and good interior joiners, but their inexperience in sailing results in inconsistencies that compromise their boats. Fortunately, thanks to the pressure from owners, the builder began offering optional tankage amidships, where it belongs.

Handling Under Sail

The Tayana 37 was built as a ketch or cutter, with wood spars or aluminum, with mast-stepped on deck or on the keel. Few builders have offered so many options. The standard rig is a masthead cutter with wooden spars; the mast is stepped on deck and supported by a substantial compression column. The designer strongly recommended the aluminum cutter rig, and we heartily concur. The wooden mast is poorly proportioned, with a massive section and extremely thick sidewalls. One mast we looked at had a large knot on the forward side of the mast just at spreader level. Despite the huge mast section, we feel the knot could weaken the mast significantly.

In contrast to the large section of the mast, the boom was an extremely small spruce box section. With mid-boom sheeting, this spar will probably bend like a rubber band, complicating mainsail shape. The clew outhaul slide is far too flimsy for a boat of this size, and owners report that the outhaul slide frequently distorts or explodes. Once again, these problems are rather typical in Taiwan boats, where you frequently find excellent craftsmanship but a poor understanding of engineering or the forces involved in ocean sailing.

In contrast, the aluminum rigs, which may come from a variety of sources including France, New Zealand, and the U.S., are well proportioned and suited to the task.

We see no reason to select the ketch rig. Both performance and balance with the cutter rig will be better. The cutters mainsail is 342 square feet. Any couple healthy enough to go world cruising should be able to cope with a sail of this size.

The cutter rig is tall and well proportioned. Perry has drawn an unusually high-aspect rig for a cruising boat, and the result is a boat with good performance on all points of sail. With the aluminum rig, the optional Nicro Fico ball-bearing mainsheet traveler and a well-cut suit of sails, the Tayana 37 will be surprisingly fast. Her working sail area of 864 square feet is generous.

Despite a ballast/displacement ratio of 33 percent, the Tayana 37 is not a stiff boat. This is due in part to the tall, heavy rig and the substantial amount of other weight above the boats vertical center of gravity. Much of the boats heavy joinerwork and glasswork is well above the waterline, raising the center of gravity and reducing initial stability. Perry believes the initial tenderness to be an asset, reducing the snappiness of the boats roll and making her a more comfortable sea boat. We agree.

Many owners report that the boat carries substantial weather helm. The sailplan is drawn with significant rake to the mast. This creates just enough shift in the center of effort of the sailplan to create a lot of weather helm. Bringing the mast back toward the vertical by tightening the headstay and forestay while loosening the backstay should cure much of the problem, according to reports from other owners. It may be necessary to shorten the headstay to do this.

The weather helm and initial tenderness may also be due in part to the poor cut of the standard sails provided with the boat. Many of the boats in existence came with standard sails made by Lam of Hong Kong. These sails have the reputation of being stretchy and having very poor shape. Mainsail draft with this fabric is almost uncontrollable, with the sail becoming baggy and the draft moving aft as the wind increases. This will create weather helm and increase the angle of heel.

Deck Layout

With its bulwarks, high double lifelines, and substantial bow and stern pulpits, the Tayana 37 gives the sailor a good sense of security on those cold, windy nights when called out for sail changes. A teak platform grating atop the bowsprit coupled with the strong pulpit, relieves that appendage of its widowmaker reputation.

The bowsprit platform incorporates double anchor rollers, which can house CQR anchors. Unfortunately, there is no good lead from the rollers to any place to secure the anchor rode. Line or chain led to the heavy bowsprit bitts would chafe on the platform. An anchor windlass mounted to port or starboard of the bowsprit would provide a good lead.

There are hawseholes through the bulwarks port and starboard, well aft of the stem. These will be fine for docklines, but are too far aft to serve as good leads for anchoring. There is room at deck level, outboard of the bowsprit, to install a set of heavy chocks for anchoring, although anchor rode led to this point will chafe on the bobstay as the boat swings to her anchor.

This is a classic problem of the boat with a bowsprit. The anchor rode must really lead well out the bowsprit to avoid the bobstay, yet the long lead complicates securing the inboard end of the rode. A common solution is a bridle led to the hawseholes.

The long staysail boom makes it difficult to cross from one side of the boat to the other forward. The standard staysail traveler is merely a stainless-steel rod on which a block can slide on its shackle. Under load, this can bind when tacking, so that it may be necessary to go forward and kick the block over after every tack. By all means look for boats with the optional Nicro Fico travelers with their roller-bearing cars. Complaints about the standard travelers are rife.

Standard winches on the boat were Barlow. We suggest that you try to find self-tailing winches for all sheets.

Although the sidedecks are relatively narrow due to the wide cabin trunk, there is reasonable access fore and aft. A full-length handrail on either side of the cabin trunk provides a good handhold.

The cockpit of the Tayana 37 is small, as befits an oceangoing sailboat. There are cockpit scuppers at each of the four corners of the cockpit well, with seacocks on the through-hull outlets.

With the pedestal steering, the cockpit seems to have shrunk. Only three can be seated in real comfort, although this is no real problem for the cruising couple. It is not a cockpit for heavy entertaining in port. The elimination of the coaming around the stern of the boat has made the cockpit seats long enough for sleeping on deck, but at the expense of exposing the helmsman to a wet seat in a following sea.

Cockpit locker configuration varies with the interior options chosen, but the lockers are large enough to provide reasonable storage, although you should resist the temptation to load them heavily so far aft.

The interior of the Tayana 37 probably sells more boats than any other feature of the boat. Every boat was custom built so there has never been a standard interior.

Like other Taiwanese boats, the interior of the Tayana 37 is all teak. This can result in a cabin that is oppressively dark to some people, and exquisitely cool to others. To keep it looking good, owners must do a lot of oiling or varnishing.

The interior joinerwork on the boat we examined was some of the best we have seen. Joints were just about flawless, paneled doors beautifully joined, drawers dovetailed from solid stock. There were no fillers making up for poorly fitted joints, no trim fitted with grinders, no slop anywhere. Older Tayana 37s (70s-80s vintage) we have seen did not boast quite this caliber of workmanship, but their joinerwork was certainly of good quality.

With such an array of interior options, it is difficult to really evaluate the boats interior. Although, in all fairness, there is a standard interior. It is prosaic but good, with a V-berth forward, followed by the head and lockers just aft. The main cabin has a U-shaped settee to port, straight settee and pilot berth to starboard. Aft is a good U -shaped galley to port, nav station and quarterberth to starboard.

Conclusions

The Tayana 37 is both typical and atypical of Taiwanese boats. It is typical in the problems that existed due to the builders inexperience with seagoing yachts, common with communication and language problems.

It is atypical in that many of these problems have been solved over its many years of production. Anyone considering a Tayana 37 should join the owners association and read all the back newsletters before buying the boat.

The total cost of a well-equipped Tayana 37 with most of the desirable options compares very favorably with other boats of her size, type, and displacement. The Tayana 37 would make an excellent retirement cruiser for the experienced sailing couple. Properly handled and equipped, she could take you anywhere with confidence and reasonable dispatch.

Editors note: This review is an updated and expanded version of one previously published.

• Heavy Glass Hull Marks Tayana 37

• Tayana Yachts
• Tayana Owners Group

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

The word “cost” without a number associated with it is just meaningless drivel. So how much would a “well-equipped Tayana 37 with most of the desirable options” cost? Ballpark, of course.

They run about $50K to 80K, depending more on condition, and whether or not they have been recently re-powered, than what year built.

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Sailboat Westsail 28' blue-water cruiser cutter double ender single hander.

Sneedville, Tennessee

Posted Over 1 Month

Cutter rigged full keel blue-water sailboat. This vessel has a 24hp Volvo MD-11c engine that is very dependable and great on fuel. Due to this engine it is registered as an antique for $6-8.00 a year registration fee.The boat is set up for single handed sailing with new standing/running rigging, 3-sails, roller furled, Nor Vane wind vane auto pilot (new), compass, 2-VHF Standard Horizon radios 1 with plotter and black box depth - temp - fish finder and an additional Standard Horizon chart plotter mounted on the hard top for quick reference. There is also a back up Nav. Comm. depth and speed mounted in the cockpit, 3-anchors, fiberglass cockpit hard top (new), 2-60w solar panels, 2-20lb propane tanks, practically new aluminum 50 - 55 gal fuel tank, 2 new wet cell batteries, 40 gal fresh water bladder tank (new), water pump (new), macerator pump (new), 20-gal holding tank (new), new toilet, 2 - burner propane stove with broiler, a microwave, AM/FM radio and CD player, 2-Off Shore inflatable and 2-Off Shore orange life preservers. I installed a new bowsprit about 2 months ago and have had the bright work varnished over the last couple of months. I also installed a new big screen TV and a new Blue Ray disc player and many more custom features such as a built in tool box with tools mounted in the engine room.

33' Rough Water Sailboat 1983

Slidell, Louisiana

Make Roughwater

33' Rough Water Sailboat 1983 OBO - $15500 condition: fair engine hours (total): 50 length overall (LOA): 33 make / manufacturer: 33' model name / number: Roughwater propulsion type: sail 33' Rough Water Sailboat 1983 is a Thomas Gillmer designed Roughwater 33 built in Taiwan in the Late 70's. She has a hand-laid fiberglass bulletproof hull. She's a strong sturdy double ender and was made to cross oceans. And so you shall. Hull Type: Long keel w/trans. hung rudder Rig Type: Masthead Sloop LOA: 33.08' / 10.08m LWL: 26.00' / 7.92m Beam: 9.75' / 2.97m Listed SA: 460 ft2 / 42.73 m2 Draft (max.) 4.75' / 1.45m Draft (min.) Disp. 15000 lbs./ 6804 kgs. Ballast: 5000 lbs. / 2268 kgs. SA/Disp.: 12.14 Bal./Disp.: 33.33% Disp./Len.: 381.00 Designer: Thomas Gilmer Builder: Tao-Yuan Boatyard (TAIWAN) Construct.: FG Bal. type: First Built: 1975 Last Built: 1985 # Built: AUXILIARY POWER (orig. equip.) Make: Yanmar Model: 2HM20 Type: Diesel HP: 20 Have Mast, Sails, Rigging, and Bow Sprit $15500 OBO

Very Rare 19 ft Southern-sail Skiffle sailboat motor and trailer turn key!

Miami, Florida

Make Southernsail Skiffie

FINAL REDUCTION BEFORE SHE'S OFF THE MARKET! FROM 7500 TO 6000!!Very Very Rare! only a hand full were made, Skiffie 1982 19 ft Southernsails Inc, (XUT) with a Johnson sailmaster 7.5 extra long shaft double- ender lapstrake heavy fiberglass sailboat in pristine conditions ( Faiths ) hull is shinny and smooth with great lines, main sail is great, working jib also, she was built by southernsails Inc in Clearwater Florida, has new varnished tiller handle with cover, Bimini top with boot cover, new Tung jack. tiller tamer new, wind indicator, lines, custom mast holder made out of aluminum, new chocks, anchor and rod new, cushions, recently rebuild entire tandem trailer with custom bunks ,new keel guides, supports, new axles, hubs, 4 new wheels and a new spare with carrier and cover, new Led trailer lights, safety chains, bow stopper, winch, strap, recently had bottom professionally painted, have Florida title and trailer registration on hand!, please serious inquiry's only. Many Thanks.LOA 19FIXED KEELBEAM 6"8DRAFT 2ftDISPLACEMENT 1900 lbs.SAIL AREA 143 sq.ftOUTBOARD MOTOR WELLSELF BAILING COCKPIT.

Sakonnet 23 Daysailer, Built by Edey & Duff, Designed by Joel White, Sailboat

Greenville, South Carolina

Make Sakonnet

Category Daysailer Sailboats

Length 23.2

15.00 Built by Edey & Duff, the Sakonnet 23 is one of the prettiest daysailers you will find. Refreshingly handsome from all angles and super-swift as well, this distinctive double-ender is ideal for the experienced sailor who wants a roomy, inshore daysailer for weekend and evening sailing with family and friends. What’s more, her true hull speed and modern high-aspect rig make the Sakonnet 23 a most competitive one-design class racer.We have owned this boat since 2007. She has been well-maintained and is in excellent condition. Please contact me for additional information and more photos. BUILDER/DESIGNER Builder: Edey & Duff (built in 2005) Designer: Joel White DIMENSIONS LOA 23’2” – LWL 18’8” Beam 6’1” – Displacement 2000 lbs Draft 1’10” – 5’2” – Ballast 920 lbs MOTOR & ELECTRICAL Factory Installed – Minn-Kota electrical motor 12 volt Interstate battery 24 MRO 500 amps Pro Sport 20 fully automatic/electronic multi-stage marine charger Electrical wiring, switch with meter Mast headlight AH 800 Tiller pilot Electrical and manual bilge pumps SAILS & RIGGING Mainsail by Harding Jib by Harding with UV protection Roller furling New boat and sail cover Sails cleaned and maintenance performed by Sail Care 6/15 Harken winches, whisker pole eye ADDITIONAL INVENTORY Triad galvanized trailer with extending tongue Lifting bridle Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE

1980 Corbin 39 Aft Cockpit Cutter

Clearwater, Florida

Make Corbin

Model 39 Aft Cockpit Cutter

Category Cutter

1980 Corbin 39 Aft Cockpit Cutter 2018 SURVEY AVAILABLE! CALL OR EMAIL ME! FULL DETAILS ON BOAT IN SURVEY! This is a rare example of an incredibly well-maintained Corbin 39, one of the most rugged and popular ocean-going cruising boats around. Canadian built and owned (import duty paid) and available at a very reasonable price. Please view the photos for details! Great sail inventory:  GenoaYankeeStay sailDrifterMain (2008)Spare main Minimal thruhulls -- sea chest for engine  New prop shaft 2015 Refrigeration condenser 2014 Solar Engine has had top end rebuilt twice Diesel heater Raymarine autopilot Raymarine tri-data Garmin GPS Map 76Cx Epirb Ground tackle: 53 LB CQR, 45 LB CQR, 45 LB Danforth  From a review in Bluewater Boats: In 1977 Marius Corbin commissioned Robert Dufour of Montreal, Quebec to design him a sailboat based on a one-off 39-foot Dufour design named Harmonie. Mr. Corbin asked Mr. Dufour to increase the freeboard and flush the deck. In 1979, the first Corbin 39 came out of the resulting mold, and the Canadian manufacturer produced 129 Corbins until 1982. Most were sold as kits in varying degrees of completion. In 1982, a fire destroyed the deck molds, but because of continued strong demand, they decided to update the molds and continue production. The last Corbin 39 produced, hull number 199, was launched in 1990. The Corbin 39 is a double ender in the classic Scandinavian lineage of serious offshore cruisers like the Westsail 32. She features a long fin keel of 6 draft, high freeboard, and a blunt bow. Corbin produced various deck molds including flush, pilot, center cockpit, and aft cockpit variations. Corbin

1988 Homemade 38

Coos Bay, Oregon

Make Homemade

For you traditionalist's out there, Read on This Sailboat was built by a man with passion and a vision to create a classic, traditional sailboat from the George Buehler stable( Great bear).Elmer worked for the forestry and put 10 years of labor and love into her before passing. Tom Tallman purchased and re-powered and fitted taller aluminium mast and rigging and was 'gutted' selling her. Current owner purchased in 2005 and loves her strong construction, sea kindle-ness, taller mast in light airs and young boat with traditional style. Hard Chine construction. Topsides have conventional carvel plank on frame construction, w/ a large fir chine timber, below chine there is a diagonal stave planking running between chine + keel. Staves are well bedded in 3M 5200 rubber sealant. Double ender wood hull. The Hull took 10 years to build. Port Oxford cedar; Cap-rail, bulwarks siding. Stanchions + Samson post are Pacific yew. Douglas Fir; covering boards, chine timber 2" thick, 2-3/4" thick fir floor timbers, sawn fir knees under ends of deck beams. Backbone structure is steel bolt fastened. Decking material: Laid planked Douglas Fir VG old growth w/galvanized steel wood screw fastenings. Ceiling 1/2" thick yellow cedar fastened down w/steel nails. Long cast cement keel. (cement keel has encased in case hardened steel tractor tread steel pins to have more weight for volume.) Internal pig iron added to extended seats + lead ingots under bunk, approx

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Advantages/disadvantages of double ended hull?

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Double ended and canoe hulls look very classic, but odd to me. What are the functional or performance advantages and disadvantages compared to a flat or reverse transom? Thanks.  

Disadvantages - 2 pointly ends anf you lost a LOT of the stern use Advantages - none Bob Perry who designed the Valiant 40 double pointy has said it had no real function  

One pf most useful cruiser design items on my boat is the folding helm seat and down down to stern swim platform. Easy access on/off the boat/dinghy is a HUGE plus  

I believe double-enders developed because of the sea conditions they were built for and that, as a wooden boat, they were easier to build. Though many are indeed eye candy, I'm not partial to the design, as someone who has run in waves higher than the boat is long, I want as much buoyancy in the stern as can be managed. I have also experienced the hobby-horsing that a wonderful boat like the Atkins Ingrid can have in small chop. I have never bought a boat, other than a Trinka, because of how she looked, and frankly, in most cases it is way at the bottom of my list of importance. It just so happens that most boats that appeal to me for other reasons have reasonably nice lines. However, given the option of two relatinevly equal boats, I would probably not choose the double-ender.  

This is an article that I had written some years ago that discusses Double-enders: I apologize that it is quite long and a little dated. Double-enders- a bit of history and commentary When you look at really old double enders (Egyptian passenger barges, Viking ship, canoes, Skerry traders) you see some things in common. As a broad generality, for their era, these vessels were all tended to be quite light and fast and intended to be propelled at pretty high speeds with comparatively little power. The traditional (up until the late 19th century) double ender actually had very fine ends and a burdensome mid-section. This shape was evolved for speed and seaworthiness in low powered (low stability), low volume vessels. This fine-ended double ender was a great shape for rough sea conditions. In theory when a boat is running before breaking waves its own wake can disturb the waves astern and cause them to break. These fine-ended double enders threw smaller wakes and so were less likely to cause waves too break on them from astern. If a wave did break, the wave did not collide with the flat surface of a transom. (That is also the same reason that the transoms on traditional boats had as much rake as they did.) That all works well for light weight working craft with minimal sources of power. As these boats became more burdensome they began to have a different set of problems. One of the key problems with the more heavily loaded fine ended double enders were that they did not have as much reserve buoyancy as transom sterned boats and waves might not break in their wake but they would get pooped (flooded from astern by overtaking wave). The Roman and medieval cargo ships, which are well known to researchers, were all double enders below and just above the waterline but light displacement they most certainly were not - the cogs, shuyts and fluyts of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance were capacious, slow, cargo carriers. There were a few reasons that these smaller European working watercraft, at least until the mid-19th century, be they Norwegian, Scottish, Danish, Dutch, Spanish, Maltese or Greek, are double enders are twofold; One is that this type of stern is easy, reliable, and cheap to build in wood. The other reason for the early use of double ends is that these working vessels had/have to lie alongside each other in close proximity in artificial harbors. The double ender is less likely to suffer damage from boats alongside. In such circumstances you find double enders. Elsewhere, like the Breton coast of France or the East Coast of England, where the sea conditions are just as bad, but there are natural harbors, estuaries, etc. you find transom sterns and counter sterns. The transom stern gives more buoyancy aft and is better suited to a high displacement hull, while once modern tools and fastenings appear became equally cheap to build. The counter stern gives a drier after deck (important in sailing ships, which were conned from the poop) and more space for handling sails (and nets, on fishing boats) It is around the point that the trend was moving away from double ended working watercraft, that Colin Archer comes along in the search for a way to make boats that would not cause waves to break and that would still also have sufficient reserve buoyancy in the ends. When you study the lines of a Colin Archer design they were really amazing. These were not delicate boats by any stretch of the imagination. They were truly beefy. They had to be. They were rescue boats and pilot boats that had to be able to stand station in the worst the North Seas had to offer and still make a rendezvous. They had to be able to lie against a stranded ship and take the pounding while rescuing people and property. They earned a reputation for their seaworthiness and ability to withstand the worst nature had to offer. Archer was a theorist and was looking for a way to design powerful boats with powerful rigs that would still remain balanced. Archer also had a tremendous ability to model the lines of these heavy boats so that they had a fairness of line and fineness of water line that is not readily apparent at first glance. They are deceptive boats in many ways. For all of their weight they were reasonably easily driven boats. They were capable of spreading really huge sail plans or being snugged down to a handkerchief. They were surprising low drag given their large displacement. But it needs to be understood that from all of the descriptions that I have ever read these were not easy boats to sail. These were not the “sailed by a man and a boy” fine ended double ender epitomized by Tancock Whalers popularized in the fisheries off of Nova Scotia. The Colin Archers took large crews and a lot of brute strength to sail and to a great extent these boats survived on the iron wills of their crew. Then along comes Atkins, who takes the Colin Archer rescue boats and adapts them into yachts. Atkins like Archer is a master of the carefully modeled hull forms. In many ways his “Ingrid” is the definitive Colin Archer type yacht. Comparatively fine yet buoyant and burdensome, the 'Ingrid's are a masterful example of the art of yacht design with the emphasis on art. I keep hearing people refer to these boats as fast. They are fast for what they are, but in a relative sense, even in heavy going, they are not ‘fast’ when compared to more modern designs. They also reputedly have very comfortable motions in a seaway when viewed from the standpoint of slow roll and minimal pitch, rather than from minimizing roll angles. That slow roll is more a product of their round bottom, and wine glass sections more than their double ends and the small mount of pitch primarily came from having short overhanks (long waterlines) and the rapid increase in buoyancy as the bow imerseses. The 'Ingrid's’ and 'Eric's’ did wonders for instilling the idea that double ended yachts are some kind of ideal for distance cruising. This was an ideal that was further embedded by the ubiquitous Hanna Tahiti and Gulfweed Ketches. By the late 1960’s double enders began to be viewed as relics of the past. Well-modeled double enders are not easy to mould in fiberglass since there was often some tumblehome in the stern making it hard to remove them from a single part mould. It probably would have stayed like that if the ‘character boat’ craze had not gotten started in the early 1970’s. At the time the whole character boat thing was hard to fathom. After decades, suddenly bowsprits and molded in plank seams were getting popular. (If you actually owned a wooden boat you went to great lengths to conceal the seams and make the topsides look “just like fiberglass” but suddenly fiberglass boats were being built showing 'seams'.) Emerging in the early days of that period of looking backwards, the Westsail 32 came on the scene. The Westsail 32 is a fiberglass version of the Atkins ‘Eric’ altered to supply more room down below and be easier to mold in glass. The Westsail pretty quickly became an icon for the “serious Blue water cruising boat”. Derided as heavy, slow and wet, with many were bought by posers and wannabes, in reality the Westsails have proven to be enduring boats with an admirable cruising record. What the Westsails and boats like them did was to bring a focus on the growing gap between “cruiser-racers” and purpose built offshore boats. It was about that time that a young Bob Perry happened on the scene. I have always believed that Bob’s goal in designing the Valiant 40 was to design a boat that bridged this gap. Seen today the Valiant 40 seems very solid and conservative but in its day the Valiant 40 was revolutionary. If you look at the sections and underbody waterlines of the Valiant, they were remarkably far more similar to the early Sparkman and Stephens designed IOR boats (like the Tartan 41) than to anything that Colin Archer designed. Obviously a bit more burdensome, the Valiant 40 dared to be a moderate displacement (for the time) boat with a fin keel/ spade rudder intended for serious offshore cruising. I also suspect from articles that I have seen over the years (and later from conversations with Bob Perry) that the trunk cabin and canoe stern were chosen not for some inherent obvious sailing or seakeeping advantage but as a clear statement that the Valiant 40 was and is intended as a serious offshore cruising boat. If you look carefully at the stern of a Valiant 40 it in no ways really resembles the traditional canoe stern chosen for low wave making and low drag. This is a very powerful stern consistent with the Valiant's more modern lines and underbody. Of course for every brilliant design idea there are a bunch of bone headed copies. Having drawn a few double enders in my day, I really think that they take more skill than any other hull form to get right. Poorly done they are awkward in appearance and offer few of the advantages with all of the disadvantages of a double ender. Perry got it right, (to my eye, perhaps more so on the 37 foot Esprit), but a lot of designers never did. Designers like Garden, Benford, and Crealock have designed many a fine double ender, but I think Bob Perry was there at the right time with a design that really understood the problem and looked good doing it. So back to the original question, “What are the advantages and disadvantages of a double ender?” If the stern is not carefully modeled and matched to the other properties of the design, there are not any inherent advantages to a double ender; none at all. Properly designed in the fine-ended model, they offer a lower resistance at slow speeds, less wave making and a cleaner wake less likely to cause waves to break astern. Properly modeled in canoe stern model, they offer a lot of reserve buoyancy in the ends with a minimum stern overhang for reduced hobby horsing. They also offer less corners for lines to foul on which was far more important in the days of Gaff Rigs with booms that over hung the transom. The disadvantage is that a double enders tend top have quite a bit less room aft for their length than a transom stern boat. This means a more cramped cockpit (or aft cabin). In terms of sailing performance, with modern rigs and underbodies it is harder to get a canoe stern boat to work with modern underbodies which are designed to surf and sometimes plane. This means that they are not suitable to today’s lighter faster design principles. Its not an issue if your interest is in a heavier, more burdensome, long range cruiser but if your goal is coastal cruising or performance offshore cruising, where speed becomes more important than carrying a lot of ‘stuff’ in a short sailing length, then a canoe stern might not make sense. Canoe stern boats can be a bit more expensive to manufacture in glass as they often require special molds to handle the tumblehome in the stern. From a sailing standpoint, most double endere give away some initial stability which translates to reduced sail carrying capability and with that, the need to reduce sail sooner. Unless long and narrow, they lack the 'bearing' to achieve decent reaching and motoring speeds without the stern squatting and greatly increasing drag and fuel consumption. But also there are practical issues with a canoe stern. In a practical sense, the pinchjed ends make it harder to carry a dinghy in davits or install the type of solar arrays that are becoming increasingly popular. The loss of volume aft, makes it more difficult to carry the weight of a full sized dinghy when davits are installed. The reduction in useful deck area and interior volume result in boats which are small for their length, and are the equivillent of perhaps a 15-20% smaller boat in terms of useful space and sailing ability. At this point in time, I view the most recent crop of double enders mostly as a fashion statement. Most of us, sail the boats that we bought because we like them. We like them for all kinds of reasons, not the least of which may simply be that we like the way they look. I think that today’s double enders often carry with them a variety of features that attract a certain kind of sailor (or someone who wants to be that type of sailor). But in the end, to me, in prioitizing the criteria for choosing a long range cruising boat, the most serious consideration needs to be the practical and functional aspects of the boat in question. Aesthetics may play a role, but if the plan is to go offshore for long periods of time, that role needs be secondary. And so from that point of view, I would consider a double end a liability rather than an asset. Respectfully Jeff  

I made a short video to help me answer this questions. There are numerous advantages to rounded sterns or double enders from a close quarters manoeuvring perspective. Harbour working craft are probably the vessels that get the greatest advantage in this realm. Harbour working craft old and new often tend to have rounded sterns to improve their manoeuvrability in close quarters. Tug boats,short run ferries and tour boats are a few examples of modern working craft that very often have rounded transom. I will mention a couple of items; Turning radius. As a boat turns in forward the outer point of a boats maximum turning radius is the corner of the transom. The narrower the stern, the smaller the circles the boat can make compared to boats of similar length. A boat with an 8 ft square transom may have a turning radius as much as 4 feet more than a double ender of similar length. If you do a lot of close manoeuvres in marinas 4 feet of extra clearance can offer some benefits. Stern spring. This is the big one for me. Everybody uses bow springs. This is the manoeuvre where you let all lines go except for the bow spring, put the boat in forward and open up clearance from the dock with the stern allowing you to back away from the dock. Great for motoring away from dock, not so good for sailing away from dock. A rounded transom greatly facilitates the stern spring manoeuvre. Now, you are lettings all lines go except for your stern spring allowing the bow to open distance with the dock and allowing you to leave the dock forward. Not only is a stern spring faster because you don't need to back and then go forward, it also facilitates sailing away from dock. Stern springing is also by far the best way to exit a lock, actually most double enders don't even need to spring out of a lock, just put the boat in forward and drive away. Square transom boats could cream the quarter of their transoms if they did this. So while double enders don't have a lot of advantages for how most people use their recreational sailboats, they do have advantages that can be exploited by recreational sailors. Right, so here is a quick 50 second video of sailing away from dock using a stern spring.  

Arcb said: Tug boats Click to expand...

Love learning about my own boat. Thanks Jeff & Arcb. I'd actually forgotten about the stern spring. We definitely use this when trying to get of tight docks. So there's one nice advantage.  

Stern springing off the dock can be done on any boat, transom or not. You may have to take a bit more care with fender placement with a wide transom, but it is a simple maneuver for any boat. Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk  

Tzu Hang 's pitchpole was the perfect example of the design fault of the "canoe" hull shape, IMO. Had she been a Perry designed double ender, I doubt the same event would have happened. It was, and is, a fairly unique design and I don't see a lot around.  

Owning a Brewer-designed double-ender ourselves, I would say that there are a lot of other design factors that probably matter more in terms of an advantage/disadvantage comparison. I found ours mostly by accident. I wasn’t looking for a double-ender. She answered all of our needs, and happened to be a double-ender, which I found attractive. One notable advantage/disadvantage is the cockpit size in most designs. Advantage for us: Small cockpit is fine for a couple, feels safer underway, and won’t hold much water in the event of a pooping wave. Disadvantage: More than two full-size humans, and our cockpit begins to get crowded FAST, especially since we are tiller-steered. This is not a boat to take out your brother, his spouse, their three kids, and their dog. Some are better than others in this regard. Ours was designed for a couple, so living space was more important than extra cockpit space. Another thing to consider is your docking preference or requirements. Yes, they can moor stern-to, but most will require some ingenuity if one must board from the stern. Not an impossible problem, but another thing to consider. Jonathan  

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The sail kit makes your Portland Pudgy a fun, safe sailing dinghy. The stability and buoyancy designed into the Portland Pudgy make it safe and sea-friendly as a recreational sailing dinghy for the whole family. The Pudgy takes surprisingly rugged seas and wind for a boat its size…

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Unlike inflatable boats, the Portland Pudgy safety dinghy is a joy to row. It can be rigged out as a fun sailing dinghy. It’s a safe and fun recreational sailing dinghy for the whole family. It’s stable and difficult to capsize, but if you manage to, it’s very easy to right, and comes up dry. No need to wait for rescue (as with some recreational sailing dinghies, like the Opti). The entire sail kit stows neatly out of the way in the interior of the double hull (rudder and leeboards under seats). Because the Portland Pudgy safety dinghy is so stable, rugged, and tracks so well when rowed or motored, it’s also a great fishing boat or duck hunting boat, and a great platform for nature photography and diving. See Sailing Dinghy.

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All of the accessories, oars, sail kit (including telescoping mast and boom), inflatable exposure canopy, sea anchor, ditch bag, provisions, and more, can be stowed within the boat via the five watertight hatches.  This is very convenient in your everyday dinghy or sailing dink.  It’s an extremely important safety feature of the Portland Pudgy lifeboat. All of your equipment is there in an emergency.

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Live-aboards  Teresa Carey and Ben Erickson Carey  sent us this wonderful video about their Portland Pudgy. Lots of great sailing shots.  Deliberately flipping the Pudgy (:33) and then easily righting it (2:00). Inflating the exposure canopy using the alternative method (hand pump) and using it as a dodger (1:15). Sleeping in the Pudgy. Lots of shots that show how stable and roomy it is. And lots just showing what a fun little boat it is.

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