sailboat cockpit shower

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Installing A Cockpit Shower

• By Joe Friedman
• Updated: May 10, 2011

Even if your boat has a head with a shower, nothing beats taking a shower in the cockpit after a swim, or when it’s so bloody hot you need a refreshing rinse. Single-valve “cold” shower assemblies take the least space. If you have a water heater, or think you might be installing one in the future, you might as well install a dual-valve hot/cold shower. This installation assumes a pressurized, cold freshwater system plumbed with reinforced PVC tube. While Scandvik, Shurflo and Whale all make transom showers, we chose the Heater Craft Aquatik 803SB ( defender.com , $110) for a couple of reasons. It has a convenient hot/cold mixing valve and a long, 10-foot hose. Even better, it has a sexy, curvy European look we just couldn’t resist.

1. Create a master plan. Lay out the piping run from the freshwater source to the shower valve assembly’s location to ensure clear passage all the way. Stay clear of hot engine parts, sharp protruding fiberglass, hull-to-deck screws and other obstructions. The shower head comes with 10 feet of hose, so when selecting the transom or bulkhead location, keep in mind that there needs to be enough open, clear space behind and below the enclosure for the hose to drop into. Often, a small, mesh laundry bag is used to contain the retracted hose.

2. Cut out the opening. The enclosure requires a cutout of 5 inches by 8 inches and 6 inches of depth. Tape the provided template to the mounting surface. Drill a ½-inch pilot hole for the jigsaw. Cut out the opening. Slide the enclosure into the hole and mark the mounting screw positions. Drill 7/64-inch pilot holes for the stainless-steel screws.

3. Tap your water line. Locate a convenient place to tap into the pressurized side of the existing cold-water supply line. Cut the line, insert a T-fitting, and run the piping to the shower enclosure. Apply two stainless hose clamps to all three sides of the T and support the piping every 18 inches with cable clamps. If your boat, like most today, is fitted with quick-disconnect (QD) plumbing, use that instead of clamps.

4. Connect all the pieces. Screw the supplied female adapter to the threaded inlet on the shower body, and connect to the piping. Push the shower hose through the enclosure, thread the supplied thread-to-barb adapter to the outlet, slip the hose over the barb, and secure with the supplied stainless hose clamp. Screw the 10 mm cap to the unused hot-water inlet.

5. Slide in shower unit. Turn on the pump and check for leaks. Prior to permanently mounting the enclosure, hand-fit it, and push the shower hose in to be sure it goes in and out without any problems. Then, apply a thin line of sealant around the mounting flange and slide the shower unit into the opening. Secure with the supplied screws.

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8 Sailboats With Showers You Must See (With Pictures)

For many sailors, the showers on their boats are important when determining which model to buy.

Some sailors will mock those who want a shower, claiming that a bucket in the cockpit is all the shower you need. Still, the reasons for wanting a real shower can range from convenience for a liveaboard to the functional layout for an extended cruise with a large family.

In this article, we’ll take a look at some sailboats of various sizes that have dedicated showers for whatever your needs are:

Table of Contents

Consider the Size of the Sailboat

Most boats less than 35 feet in length will not have true shower facilities on board.

Instead, assuming they have showering ability, they have what is known as a “wet head.”

The wet head is a hand-held nozzle attached to a water hose that may be used while standing beside or on the toilet. This gets the entire head area wet, though – hence the name.

For this reason, all of the boats we look at in this article will be on the larger size, as they will have the separate stall that an owner looking to take a shower in comfort will expect.

Marlow-Hunter 47

Let’s start with a popular sailboat that is in production. The Marlow-Hunter 47 is a luxury sailboat that features three staterooms set into its spacious interior.

The forward stateroom has a bathroom to starboard and a separate shower stall to port.

The shower is large enough to stand in, but it also features a wooden seat if you prefer to sit down or shower amid swells.

Being dedicated and apart from the toilet area, there is plenty of room to turn or sit.

There is another head to service the other two staterooms; this one has a shower but no stall; it is a wet head.

Like most Hunter sailboats of recent vintage, this model is a blend of performance and having an eye toward comfort.

Hunter 37 Cherubini Cutter

The Hunter 37 was designed by John Cherubini, and the first models were produced in 1978.

It was in production until 1984, and just over 400 models were built. It is a cutter-rigged boat with the staysail on a boom, and it has a shoal-draft keel, allowing it to venture into a lot of anchorages a boat of its size would not be able to get into.

The boat has two private cabins , and it has one bathroom with a separate shower stall.

This boat has the shower stall divided by a contoured wall from the rest of the head, though it requires a curtain to be drawn across the opening rather than having a door.

You can stand up or use the built-in seat to recline on while taking a shower. There is a wooden floorboard with large square holes to allow drainage while remaining decorative and easy on the feet.

Beneteau Oceanis 41.1

This is another model currently in production, the first year being 2017. It packs a lot of luxury into a smaller package.

It features two staterooms, one forward and one aft. The enclosed head is beside the aft stateroom.

This head has a dedicated shower stall. It is a stand-up shower without a seat, but a wide shelf supports soaps, shampoos, and washcloths.

It has a plexiglass door on hinges that completely shut the shower apart from the rest of the head.

Over 550 boasts have been sold of this model, and it is popular as a charter boat worldwide. It comes in differing deck layouts and either a shoal draft or a deep draft keel.

Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 440

Another boat currently being produced, the Sun Odyssey 440, was introduced in 2016.

The Sun Odyssey line features clean, walk-around decks above and spacious interiors that allow lots of sunlight through windows and hatches.

The boat is offered in multiple interior configurations, specifically from 2 to 4 staterooms. Each variation features two heads.

The head features a shower/sink area separated from the toilet by a clear plexiglass wall with a door. The sink is wide, and beneath it is a storage compartment with a shelf on top that will hold toiletries or towels while you shower.

There is a large mirror above the sink. A window above the sink and a hatch over the shower compartment to let in natural light.

The shower compartment is large enough to move around without getting items on the sink or shelf wet. There is not a seat.

Pearson 424

Several Pearson sailboat models in this size range shared a similar hull.

The most successful and popular bluewater cruiser was the Pearson 424. It is still a boat that many experienced offshore sailors favor.

It was produced in a cutter rig from 1978 until 1984 and a ketch rig from 1981 to 1985. The exact rig dimensions would vary on these models from boat to boat, driving sailmakers everywhere crazy, and there were even different interior layouts from year to year.

But they all feature a nicely laid-out enclosed head on the starboard side of the boat. The shower stall is separated from the toilet and sink area.

The shower stall is rather narrow, but it does have standing room for a tall person, and there is a seat for showering while reclining. There is storage in the wall above the seat for toiletries and towels.

The compartment did not have a door originally; instead, it came with a curtain to draw between the two areas of the head. Some owners have retrofitted a door across the compartment. There is a porthole above the seat to let in natural light.

This is the smallest boat we will look at, 36’2″ long. It replaced the Sabre 36 with hull number 107 in 1993 and continued until hull number 227 a couple of years later.

This was a popular boat with cruisers and racers that unfortunately was introduced when the market was shrinking.

While it emphasized performance, like most Sabres at the time, it was also designed with a fair amount of luxury for the size. This boat was known for its spacious head area and smaller navigation area.

The shower area is 30 inches wide and separated from the rest of the head by a dark plexiglass sliding door.

The showerhead is on an extended chord for easy manipulation.

There is a low seat built into the side of the area and a teak handrail for support in rough seas. There is a porthole above the seat for letting in natural light.

Candela Lagoon Luxury 40 Catamaran

Lagoon catamarans have been a popular brand with luxury cruisers for decades. They are stable and relatively easy to handle, and they are widespread in the charter trade, particularly in the Caribbean.

Catamarans have far more space interior-wise than a monohull of a similar length could ever have. Most larger ones will have huge galleys and lounges, as well as staterooms.

The Lagoon 40 has been made in several different models, each with different layout options. The Luxury model has 3 staterooms and 4 private heads featuring shower compartments.

Each head has a toilet, sink, and a separate dedicated shower stall. The shower is roomy but stand-up only.

It has a plexiglass door to keep water out of the rest of the head while showering.

There is a mirror with ample lighting in the shower and a hatch above for natural light.

Sunreef 50 Catamaran

Let’s look at a yacht that is all-luxury.

The Sunreef 50 features electric-powered sail controls for push-button sailing. It comes in several layouts, most featuring three or four massive staterooms, a crew berth, and the enormous galley/lounge.

All staterooms house queen-size beds and widescreen televisions and have their private bathrooms. These heads have sinks, toilets, storage compartments, and separate shower stalls.

The shower stalls are enclosed by plexiglass doors and have marble walls. They have dual recessed lighting fixtures in the ceiling.

There is also an option to equip the bathroom of the master bedroom with a  full bathtub instead of the shower stall.

The Sunreef 50 is currently in production and sells for $1.7 million.

Final Thoughts

For many sailors living aboard or sailing offshore, showers are an important element of the boat they will choose. Whether from simple necessity or desire for luxury, dedicated showers can make a boat feel like home.

The good news is, there are boats with nice showers for sailors on a spectrum of budgets. Some of the older sailboats listed here can be had for under $20,000, though you may have to be willing to do some maintenance and perhaps rebuilding.

If you want to charter a boat, particularly with other people, then a dedicated shower can make the voyage easier. Boats like the Lagoon 40 and the  Beneteau Oceanis 41.1 are popular in the charter trade.

The Marlow-Hunter 47 

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A DIY Sailboat Shower – Rub a Dub Dub

Posted by Ken Ferrari | Dogwatch , Sailing , Sailing Tips

We have a sailboat shower on our 1981 Morgan 382, HuskaBean ; I’ve seen it. It’s in the head, right next to the loo. In fact, it even has a seat, the toilet seat. Because everybody needs a place to rest while they’re showering, especially anyone keen on cleaning the head while they lather up. But our onboard marine shower doesn’t get a lot of use. Don’t get me wrong; we bathe aboard HuskaBean . It’s just that bathing in a shoe-box-sized boat shower aboard a boat requires impossible contortions. It uses way too much of the water in our tanks. Even with a sailboat shower curtain everything in the head gets wet and covered with soap. It’s so darn hot down below, we can really work up a sweat while washing off the sweat. Heck, we need a shower after our shower! What’s a dirty sailor to do? Take the party outside, of course.

Deck showers are where it’s at! You may immediately be thinking of those solar shower bags designed for campers. Just don’t. Nothing’s more frustrating than trying to shower under a leaky sandwich bag filled with water, trust me. “What’s the alternative?” you ask. We got ourselves a portable boat shower – a pesticide sprayer! (Because nothing says “clean” quite like a toxic chemical bath!) Of course, we use a new sprayer, one that hasn’t been used to treat for termites. We pump that thing until it’s about to burst and pull the trigger. The full-force mist lets us experience what a sidewalk feels getting pressure-washed—at least for 10 seconds, then it’s time to pump some more.

But at least it’s a lukewarm-ish mist. We fill it hours before we plan to use it and leave the whole contraption in a sunny spot on deck, our hopes high. (We recently learned we can paint the sprayer black if we want the water warmer—and we do, by the way. Then, right before the sun starts to set, right about the time our anchorage neighbors begin to congregate in their cockpits for sundowners we weren’t invited to share, we gather our shower supplies and start pumping. The green flash they’re waiting for has nothing on the sailor flash we provide, believe me. It’s only the French sailors who anchored too close who don’t bat an eyelid when they see us gallivanting around in our buckies.

On passage though, topside bathing is best done in the cockpit rather than taking a transom shower, for safety’s sake. And bathing in the cockpit while underway is an experience not to be missed. But be warned, once the boat starts rolling the nonskid on your cockpit seats will scrub your bum sparkling clean. And hang on tight; you can really pick up speed as you slip and slide across the helmsman seat. I know this for a fact.

About The Author

Ken Ferrari

Ken Ferrari and his wife Vicky are full-time cruisers living aboard their 1981 Morgan 382, HuskaBean. In addition to a stem-to-stern refit of their boat, they have logged over 20,000 nautical miles while cruising the U.S. East Coast, the Bahamas and the eastern Caribbean and have recently completed a west-to-east crossing of the North Atlantic Ocean.

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Install A Transom Shower

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Installing a shower on deck is easily within the ability of the average do-it-yourselfer. Here's how to do it.

Installing a transom shower makes it convenient for your crew to clean themselves up after a day on the water. (Photo: Malibu Boats)

Boating in and of itself is a great time, but everyone knows the fun really begins after arriving at that favorite anchorage. The kids want to go kayaking, the dog wants to swim, and hairy Uncle Joe visiting from Jersey wants to go snorkeling (while hopefully avoiding last year's backward thong fiasco). The downside to all this fun is the salt, sand, and/or muck tracked onboard at the end of the day — unless of course you have a transom shower. Here's how to install one yourself.

For boats equipped with a pressurized potable water system (the focus of this article), cockpit showers are normally plumbed into the existing freshwater system. This allows you to utilize your vessel's existing freshwater pump and water supply, as well as provide both cold and hot water (if a water heater is installed).

Cockpit showers can also be plumbed to use "raw water," i.e., whatever your boat is floating in. An initial saltwater shower followed by a final freshwater rinse is an excellent option for boats with limited freshwater reserves. The simplest way to do this is by tapping into an existing raw-water system, such as the anchor or deck washdown. Otherwise you'll need to add a dedicated raw-water pump and possibly install a thru-hull and seacock (depending on what's available for your installation).

Although you can cobble a system together, the simplest way to install a cockpit shower is by purchasing a kit. The parts provided may vary slightly, but at a minimum, most will contain a recessed enclosure, a shower head or nozzle (fitted with a length of retractable hose), and valves for hot and cold water control. The installation itself is pretty straightforward. However, as with any project, you'll want to thoroughly plan out and visualize it prior to beginning. Start by gathering a few basic tools as well as the materials you'll need.

Technical Support

Difficulty: Moderate

• Screwdriver and drill
• Tape measure
• Marker or pencil
• Jigsaw or Rotozip router tool
• Knife or hose cutter
• Channel lock pliers
• Hot and cold water hose (length and size depends on installation)
• Stainless steel hose clamps
• 2 barbed hose "T" fittings
• Marine-grade silicone sealant

Time: 3 hours

Cost: Around $150 for a hot and cold water shower kit

1. Decide where to locate the shower. Look for a flat surface near the swim platform, transom, or cockpit — one with enough depth behind it to accept the shower enclosure and plumbing, and enough room in front to allow the shower enclosure's lid (if so equipped) to swing open. Double check behind the selected location to make sure you won't be cutting or drilling into anything unexpected, such as wiring or hoses.

2. Choose a location that allows the shower to reach a convenient height for ease of use. (You can verify this by using a piece of line cut the same length as the shower hose.) Avoid areas above electrical equipment or other such items that could be damaged by leaks or drips should they occur. Accessibility to the area (in order to run the hoses) is another consideration. Part of this initial assessment should also include the best place to tap into the vessel's hot and cold water system via the shortest, straightest run possible.

3. Cut the hole. Most shower kits include a template to assist with cutting the hole. However, you can also make your own if needed by tracing the outline of the enclosure (noting the location of the mounting holes to assist with drilling).

Place the template where you want to mount the enclosure, tape it in place, then cut the hole. When cutting and mounting in solid fiberglass, you'll simply be applying a bead of sealant around the inside flange of the enclosure where it meets the hull to seal out water. If the area is of cored construction (such as balsa or plywood), you'll want to seal the edges of the hole as well to prevent water intrusion into the coring and the possibility of rot or other core-related issues down the road. Thickened epoxy works well for this. The same holds true for the mounting hardware holes in cored panels, which should also be sealed for the same reason.

Installing a freshwater transom shower is pretty straightforward for a game DIYer. Basically, find a suitable location, cut out a hole, attach the enclosure, and plumb the system.

4. Dry fit the enclosure, drill the mounting holes, and install the mounting hardware to ensure everything fits properly, then remove. If adequate access exists behind the enclosure, you can mount it now and connect the water system hoses afterward. If not, you'll have to plumb the shower prior to mounting. For our purposes, let's assume you have plenty of access and want to mount the enclosure first.

5. Apply a liberal bead of caulking along the mounting flange. Carefully install the enclosure and tighten the mounting hardware until caulking begins to ooze out, then stop. Most folks want to crank down until whatever they're mounting is tight. However, this approach squeezes most (if not all) of the caulking out. A better approach is to snug it up then let the caulking cure, allowing it to form a gasket, which provides a better seal. As a final touch, remove the mounting bolts or screws one at a time and coat the threads liberally with sealant prior to that final tightening.

After powering up the pump and checking for leaks, your transom shower will be ready for hosing down the crew, equipment, or pets.

6. Connect the shower head to the hose , which is then run into the port in the enclosure and screwed into the shower hose outlet plumbing fitting.

7. Plumb the system. Turn off and secure power to the water pressure pump and depressurize the system by turning on a sink faucet. Next, cut the hoses and install the "T" fittings at the locations you chose earlier to tap into the freshwater system. Secure each with stainless steel clamps, then run the respective hoses back to the shower, supporting each hose with wire ties and mounts or cushioned stainless-steel clamps every 12 to 16 inches.

8. Power up the water pressure pump and inspect the system for leaks. Now you're ready to hose down the kids, dog, and even Uncle Joe!

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Sailboats with showers?

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More of a luxury item than any real necessity but I'm used to seeing regular 23-26 foot cruisers with those waterproof bathrooms with handheld sprayers and drains in the floor that they use as a shower. Maybe its just because its mostly older boats in my price range but most of the sailboats in that size range seem to have similar bathrooms to the power cruisers but I don't see that many are for use as showers. Is this a feature that only normally appears in newer boats, or is it larger boats? I suppose its hard to fit all the crap necessary in a sailboat. Anyone ever converted the bathroom in a 25 or 26 foot older 70's sailboat to function as a shower? I suppose the drain wouldn't legally be allowed to dump overboard. I wonder what those on demand water heaters cost, the ones the Japanese people use are tiny little buggers.  

It can be done, and the water discharge from the shower can legally be pumped overboard in most areas, as it is considered GREY WATER, not BLACK WATER. Black water is what comes from the head and contains human fecal matter or waste. On older boats, they didn't set the boat up with a shower since the head compartments weren't generally made of waterproof materials, and taking a shower in them would create a pretty huge mess. Modern plastics and boat building technique changes have allowed them to do this on even fairly small boats now, as a fiberglass liners and such can be used to create the waterproof space required. The on-demand propane heaters can be a serious explosion risk/hazard and many insurance companies will not insure a boat equipped with one. YMMV. I'd also point out that on a smaller boat a solar shower setup might make more sense. Many smaller boats don't have pressurized water to begin with, so a solar shower or some other gravity fed system would be required. You'd be surprised at how hot the water in a simple solar shower can get by the end of a long summer day.  

Yeah it would have to be propane, the electric ones are such power hogs that they are shore power only. I'm sure since I only ever get boat liability insurance it wouldn't effect it since they never bother to actually look at the boat here for just that. Now I'll hafta look up how efficient the propane heaters are. I can glass in the head (easiest way i suppose), add an overboard drain and a proper water system to a 26 footer or so without hogging up much extra space. As a bonus I could put a T in the line and have a nice propane grill too. It'll be awhile yet before I get a boat but i'll hafta document that correctly and do a write up on it for others to see.  

PPPPPP42 said: Yyeah it would have to be propane, the electric ones are such power hogs that they are shore power only. I'm sure since I only ever get boat liability insurance it wouldn't effect it since they never bother to actually look at the boat here for just that. Now I'll hafta look up how efficient the propane heaters are. I can glass in the head (easiest way i suppose), add an overboard drain and a proper water system to a 26 footer or so without hogging up much extra space. As a bonus I could put a T in the line and have a nice propane grill too. It'll be awhile yet before I get a boat but i'll hafta document that correctly and do a write up on it for others to see. Click to expand...

Andrew, That is the way I know it to work. (Maybe it is different on the other side of the world.) In fact turning on the hot water heater on our boat while away from shore power is a big no no. Our inverter can handle it but it sucks the life out of the batts in no time. Heater is off underway. Wife showers all the time on board while we are under motor, no juice. Just heated off the engine.  

The skipper of a commercial troller I'm currently working on (wiring) is installing a 3 way water heater - AC shorepower, hydronic off the engine and a coil through the Dickinson diesel heater as well. 2 ways to get hot water when away from the dock and in the winter at the dock an alternative to the shorepower.  

This is likely only a two-way hot water heater-hydronic and electric-and has a loop that is connected to the heat exchanger running through the heater.  

New England sailors take showers? Man, did THAT place get wimpy after I left....  

PPPPPP42 said: Anyone ever converted the bathroom in a 25 or 26 foot older 70's sailboat to function as a shower? I suppose the drain wouldn't legally be allowed to dump overboard. I wonder what those on demand water heaters cost, the ones the Japanese people use are tiny little buggers. Click to expand...

So why do all you guys have HOT water heaters? I have a water heater to heat cold water. Why heat water that is already hot? :laugher  

One option if it helps your refit is to install a cockpit shower instead. Depending on where your water heater will be installed it may simplify your plumbing and, except at a marina, we prefer to shower in the cockpit even in the winter. Of course, we are in the PNW and have a full enclosure now so YMMV. Showering in the cockpit is bracing when it is cold (think sauna then polar bear plunge type feeling) but it keeps the humidity outside.  

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Practical Boat Owner

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Simple small boat shower

• Ben Meakins
• February 19, 2016

Rick Allender goes back to basics with a low-cost and simple way to shower on a small boat

We are all faced with the problem of washing our bodies with fresh water when we anchor out for any more than a day or so. The warmer the climate the more easily this problem is solved. Swimming may be a simple solution except for, among other things, that residual, clammy, salty feeling.

On Stormbird we have considered, tried and discounted many different options. These include fitting a fully-equipped ensuite style bathroom with gas-heated water and electric pressure pump (too expensive and space consuming); using handheld garden sprayers (difficult to stow); black plastic bag showers (needs sunlight and goes cold overnight); plus a bowl and flannel (not efficient at cleaning).

1 An en suite shower takes up space and is expensive

2 A garden spray pump is awkward to stow

3 Solar heated plastic bags need sunshine

4 A sink and flannel is not efficient at cleaning

Stormbird has been built in a utilitarian manner and the only facility for washing is a handbasin. This is not altogether a bad thing as ‘the less there is, the less there is to fix’.

This maxim is how we came by the milk-bottle shower. Shown to us by friends who had a malfunctioning pressure shower and who by choice, after first discovering it, use their bottle shower everyday.

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How to Install a Transom Shower on Your Boat

Install a transom shower to rinse away the sand, cool off from the hot sun and wash away the salt.

Location, location.

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Cockpit Shower

• Thread starter maria lee
• Start date Jan 21, 2010
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Mid-Size Boats

Thinking about installing a cockpit shower on my Hunter 28. Any ideas? Thanks, Randy Johnson s/v Maria Lee  

marialee said: Thinking about installing a cockpit shower on my Hunter 28. Any ideas? Thanks, Randy Johnson s/v Maria Lee Click to expand

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I bought a "Nomad H-2-0" 12V power sprayer from amazon.com for $35.00 + shipping. it holds 3 gal of water and will spray the contents for about 8 minutes -which is not using a lot of water compared to a transom shower. Its a good alternative to cutting a hole, running lines and mounting a cockpit shower. Its about the size of a 5gal jerry can and can be filled with warm water. It has adjustable spray nozzle and will sub as a washdown on deck with its 20' hose, 10" DC cord.  

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