sailboat with air conditioning

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• Belowdecks & Amenities

Air Conditioning for Sailboats

Long-term test compares ac choices.

One of the great joys of sailing is the state of near nakedness (literal and figurative) to the wind, air, and sea-and the wisdom that comes with it. From that perspective, climate control seems antithetical to the sailors art. But being Practical Sailor (not Philosophical Sailor) we recognize that even the hardiest round-the-world racers seek temporary refuge dampness, cold, and heat. And for one looking to make the transition from the landlubbers life in temperate climates to full-time cruiser in the tropics, the idea of air-conditioning-despite its huge power demands-is alluring.

Today’s air-conditioning units are lighter and more power efficient than they were ten years ago, but they are still relatively expensive, regarded as luxury items on most boats. The expense of a professionally installed unit on a 35-footer can be as much as a new set sails.

Whenever you are plunking down that much money on a piece of gear, the first question that comes to mind is durability. How long will it last? So, in this, our first in a series of articles on climate control well look at types of air-conditioning and prospective life spans in the real world. (For those who are headed northbound and exploring heat options see Playing it Safe with LPG Heat , Practical Sailor , December 2015).

Photos by Drew Frye

What We Tested

This long-term comparison focused on two products from Dometic, a world leader in this field-the Dometic CruiseAir 6,700 BTU portable air conditioner and the Dometic 10,000 BTU Turbo Air Conditioner. The units were chosen as representatives of two popular types of integral air conditioning units designed specifically for cruising boats, and were confident that most of our findings can be applied generically to each type. To put these two units into context, we compared their specifications, performance, and attributes to those of portable air-conditioners designed for home use but often used by live-aboard cruisers. A fourth type of air conditioner, the split gas system, which allows separate installation locations of the compressor (usually in the engine space) and the condenser coils and fans, will be looked at in a future article. A fifth type, the RV-type permanent roof-top (or hatch) mount is only really suitable for house boats, or boats that are permanently moored to a dock.

Both systems were installed on the same boat-a PDQ 32 – for an extended period. PS tester Drew Frye, who carried out the testing, has several years of experience using with each of these units on board. For comparison sake we included a portable window unit and a portable ducted air-conditioner, readily available at local home supply stores. Since we did not test the non-marine products, we relied on manufacturer supplied data for comparison.

How We Tested

Along with durability, noise and efficiency are the key concerns for most buyers. Using a calibrated decibel meter we took multiple noise readings from the two air conditioning units at a distance of one meter. We took current readings using a Fluke multimeter to compare energy efficiency and peak current loads. Finally, we observed any other notable differences in performance. The data is recorded in the adjacent tables.

Observations

Without question, portable units are cheaper than fixed units. The CruiseAir 6,700 BTU is no longer in production, but Pompanette makes a similar 6,000 BTU unit available from West Marine for about $1,200. Contrast this to $2,200 plus $1,200 in installation parts and materials for the Dometic Turbo 10000 BTU unit. Fitting the ducts and installing hardware for the Turbo can add two days to the DIY job. If you opt for a professional installation, this can raise the total cost to more than $5,000. The expense of a professionally installed permanent AC is a little less painful when you consider that the AC will increase the boats resale value-especially in warmer climates.

Is a DIY installation practical for a permanently installed AC? Sure, if you’re prepared to run wires and duct work and install through hulls and plumbing. The vendors say it can be done in an afternoon, and this is possible for skilled workman in an ideal situation. However, if the job requires complicated ductwork, allow a day for planning and three full days for installation. If you do decide to do your own installation, be careful not to compromise any structural bulkheads when cutting out passages for ductwork.

Follow the instructions rigorously. We have seen many botched installations, both amateur and professional, almost always because the installer did not follow the instructions. To save money on ductwork, buy the insulated duct and inlet/outlet fittings from a home improvement store or an RV store rather than from the manufacturer or a marine equipment supplier.

Floor mounted portables, connected to the outdoors via flexible ductwork, are another option. These are less expensive, only $250-$500 for comparable sizes, but they are still bulky, and they must be secured while the boat is underway. They are not a long-term solution for the mobile cruiser looking for maximum efficiency, but for the low budget cruiser stuck on the dock they are an affordable alternative to sweltering.

Avoid single-hose models. These draw cooling air only from inside, and exhaust hot air out through a duct. Since the air within the boat is often hotter and more humid than the outside air, this can reduce the cooling efficiency by as much as 50 percent.

A dual-hose unit recirculates indoor air and also draws air from outside, which improves efficiency significantly. Dual hose units are all greater than 10,000 BTUs. Some require a drain hose, while others evaporate the water into the hot air stream. Some can also operate as high capacity dehumidifiers.

Noise. A permanently installed air conditioner runs on seawater instead of air cooling, eliminating the often noisy cooling air fan required of all portable units. Testers installed the Dometic Turbos compressor and circulating fan inside one of the PDQs salon settees. With the settee seat cushions in place, the unit was very quiet-air hissed through the vents and the compressor emitted a low rumble.

The noise difference is considerable. Testers recorded 67 decibels for the installed Dometic Turbo vs. 75 decibels the smaller portable CruiseAir. Remember that a 10 decibel increase represents ten times the sound energy-so the difference is significant.

Tone. The sound pitch can also make a difference. The installed Turbo was lower in pitch and less intrusive than the CruiseAir. Quiet conversations were nearly impossible when the CruiseAir was running, while the noise of a permanently installed AC is can be nearly unnoticeable if installed correctly. Since the industry sound rating system is not directly comparable our own ratings for installed units, we did not rate the untested units for noise. Experience tells us that the standup and window portables will be closer to the hatch-mounted CruiseAir in terms of noise.

Distribution of cooling. With a portable air conditioner-any type-the person sitting next to it freezes. Distribution through the cabin can be aided by fans, but it will always be uneven. With installed air, vents take the air wherever you want it. However, it is important that area of the supply vent inlets falls within a recommended range. If a vent is too small efficiency suffers. If the inlet area is too big, the flow of cooler air is reduced.

The return volume must also meet the manufacturers minimum requirements, and the return inlet should not draw air from the bilge or engine space, which would not only spread odors and be inefficient, but also present a hazard.

Maintenance. The portable units require no maintenance, other than annual air filter cleaning. A permanent, central air conditioner requires regular raw water strainer cleaning, every 8 to 100 hours, depending on the amount of sea grass and nettles in the water. An external strainer is also required. This, too, needs to be checked for blockages, especially in high fouling areas.

Durability. The Dometic CruiseAir portable survived 18 years of seasonal use without complaint. Frye defied manufacture warnings, leaving it in place during many coastal passages on his catamaran, since it was too heavy to reasonably move and occupied too much space in the cabin. He lashed it down tightly, but that didn’t save it from spray and occasional green water. In the process of moving it, it took a few hard knocks. Eventually, the clamps on the leveling mechanism began to slip, but they were easily replaced with pins that were fabricated from fiberglass tent poles.

Weight. Excess weight is always a concern for sailors. The Pompanette 6,000 BTU unit weighs 53 pounds and the Dometic Turbo 10,000 BTU weighs 47 pounds-plus 17 pounds worth of installation parts (64 pounds total). The added weight of the installed unit is carried much lower, reducing pitching and lowering the center of gravity.

Storage Space. The compressor and condenser coils will occupy one small locker, and you’ll give up parts of other lockers for the duct work. This is the time for that house cleaning you’ve been putting off. Portable units require space when stowed for sailing, preferably where they are out of the way.

Power Requirements. The Pompanette 6,000 BTU portable draws 17 amps to start and 6.9 amps running. The Dometic Turbo, 10,000 BTU draws 14.5 amps to start and 6.7 amps running. It incorporates Dometics Smart Start capacitor and controller to reduce load spikes during start-up. The Avallon 12,000 draws a whopping 10.8 amps running, pressing the maximum safe running load of a 15 amp circuit. Clearly, the Dometic unit is the most efficient, and that translates not only into lower power bills, but also into reduced installation complexity. The Dometic, aided by the smart start controller is easily served by a 15-amp circuit, while the Avallon portable is bumping right up against the maximum.

Inconveniences. Carrying a 55-pound AC unit around the side decks, on-and-off the dock, and down below can be dangerous. Even with two people, getting it down through the companionway is still tricky. What is the cost of a single serious injury? When the unit is stored below for a foul weather passage, it must be well secured and takes up valuable space. If left in the deck hatch during fair-weather sailing, it blocks the view, blocks natural ventilation through the hatch, and snags every sheet that comes near it.

No matter how carefully fitted, hatch units leak rainwater during squalls. Because the close proximity to humid air where they fit through the hatch, most drip condensation. Window units and dual hose units also have concerns.

The only inconveniences of installed AC are opening the seacock and cleaning the raw water strainer. Locate both so they are easy to access. The strainer should have valves on both sides to reduce water spillage. The seacock should be closed when not in use (safety) and for 24 hours every few weeks. Closing the seacock for 24 hours prevents marine growth by eliminating oxygen and by allowing the concentration of copper ions in the water, leached from the copper coil, to reach preventative levels.

Hatch Mounted Units

A step above home store window units, hatch mounted units are a good temporary solution for dockside living while your moored to terra firma doing boat work or rebuilding the cruising kitty.

Dometic CruiseAir 6,700 BTU

We knocked this one around, it took green water right over the top several times (not while running), and though noisy and annoying to have on deck, it just kept running. I doubt many users abused theirs any more, although they may have more hours on them.

Bottom line: Recommended as a second-hand purchase.

Pompanette 6000

Very similar in size and weight to the CruiseAir, we’ve observed them on other boats but not studied them in depth. Those users we interviewed reported zero mechanical problems.

Bottom Line: Consider saving up for installed air.

Installed Air Conditioning

This is the option best suited for long-term cruising, because all of the critical components remain below decks protected from the elements. This feature is especially important for saltwater sailors. The premature failures with installed air systems that we know of stem from installation shortcomings, usually in the raw water suction design.

High intake loops that collect air result in unreliable operation. Oversized water pumps cause premature wear on the coil-bigger is not better in this case. Stray current can eat the cooling coil on the inside, and water leaks can drip seawater on the cooling coil, rotting it from the outside. Low voltage due to undersized wire or poor connections can strain the compressor. Properly installed, the unit should be as reliable and durable as a shore-based unit.

Dometic Turbo DTU 10 10,000 BTU

Dometic dominates this field with several lines of air conditioners to meet specific needs. Its smallest unit is the 3,500 BTU Cuddy, we opted for the 10,000 DTU 10 model.

This unit is quiet and efficient. Although the installation is time-consuming, the several days of boat yoga are well worth it. The very low power draw is a big bonus, allowing us to stay at marinas with modest power supplies.

A DIY installation requires good power tool skills and common sense (see aforementioned caution about penetrating structural bulkheads). It will likely require several days of steady work, or you can pay a contractor $1,000-$2,800, depending on the complexity of the installation and location of your boat.

Bottom line: Installed air is certainly the Best Choice, if you have either the DIY skills to do it right, or the dollars to hire someone.

Portable Uprights

There are dozens of brands of upright, dual hose-air conditioners. Friedrich is one brand that tested well with Consumer Reports, but their test field was limited. Our advice if you go this route is to compare warranty coverage and buy from a reputable supplier.

Avallon APAC120S

The advantage of caster-mounted units is that, unlike hatch mounted portables, you don’t have to lug them above and below decks. When you get the urge to sail they can be wheeled into a corner and secured, although they still eat up space. They are generally very quiet. Because they use a different BTU scale, a 12,000 BTU unit is closer to 5,500 BTU.

Finally, although they claim to evaporate all of the condensate back into the hot air exhaust, we still observed a few ounces of condensate on the most humid days. There is a pan with a sensor-remember to check it daily.

Bottom line: If you need quick AC for summer, this is a good solution while you make up your mind.

Window Units

Window units are clearly the shoestring sailors choice. Look for familiar brand names with good warranty coverage. Most today come with a remote control, which comes in handy.

Kenmore 10,000 BTU (#77060)

A dime a dozen, these are a cheap solution for the boat that spends a lot of time at the dock. We’ve seen them installed in companionway hatches using modified hatch boards, and over deck hatches, adapted to fit using some manner of home-made carpentry.

The former is more compatible with the design since the faceplate is meant to be in the room. There is also a YouTube video showing on how to modify one of these to operate below decks (although it requires quite a bit of metalwork).

Costing as little as $120 on sale, these can be the bargain solution for a small boat in a warm climate. Stowability and durability-especially in a marine environment-are the biggest drawbacks.

Bottom Line: A window unit can be a cheap, short-term solution while you make up your mind.

Conclusions

Portable air conditioning units can be durable and reliable, but they are inconvenient. Installed air conditioning adds considerable expense, particularly if professionally installed, but there is some recovery in increased resale value if properly done.

Generally these units are brought into service when the boat is dockside for long periods of time. If you are on the move between marinas – the stow and set-up routine with a portable can get tedious. But if you are held captive in one spot by circumstances and need some relief from the heat and stillness-a window mount or upright dual-hose will civilize your summer.

Stay tuned as we dive deeper into the world of compressors and coils and various options among split-gas systems.

Portable air conditioner can meet the needs of a casual cruiser, but long-term cruisers in tropical climates, especially those with boats greater than 40 feet long, will be better served by installed systems.

Nearly all marine air-conditioning problems can be partly traced to poor installation. A key step is to create a schematic that maps out the wiring, plumbing, ducts, and vents. Due to the potential fire risk with these systems, if you have doubts about wiring or fuses, you should consult an electrician. Although you don’t need to be an expert to succeed with a DIY installation—it helps if you are a jack of all trades. And you need to do your homework.

1. A Fein Multimaster simplifies cutting in close quarters. Be careful not to compromise structural bulkheads or liners. 2. Measure twice, cut once. An inlet vent, mounted low in the main saloon fits snugly in its cutout. 3. We fabricated some of the plenums, transitions, and elbows, others were meant for use with clothes driers. 4. An above-the-waterline loop in the cooling water outlet (white hose) prevents backflow into a heeled boat. 5. Glue-on studs are a big help if you cannot through-bolt. These studs are from Duckworks. Weld Mount is another source. (See “ Glue-on Fasteners ” PS July 2017).

Properly plumbing the AC system is one of the most important installation tasks, not only from a functional standpoint, but also safety. In order to meet the American Boat and Yacht Standards for through hulls, the seacock needs to be able to withstand 500 pounds of static force for 30 seconds. This typically calls for a flanged base that is supported with screws or through-bolts. A backing plate that incorporates studs is one of the most sensible ways to meet the standard because it avoids the need for additional holes in the hull.

1. The home-made backing plate assembly is tested before gluing, from left: long screw used for clamping during gluing, UL certified Marelon through-hull, the assembled seacock and backing plate. 2. The backing plate with studs is clamped in place as epoxy glue cures. 3. A t-connector simplifies draining for winterizing, ensuring no low spots. 4. The water should rise smoothly from intake, through the strainer, to the pump. If any air pockets exist, the pump will not prime after a short peried of sailing (waves drive air into the pipes and the pump cavitates).

• West Marine

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

One suggestion, if you are using your AC system in places like Florida – include provisions to flush the piping. This includes connections from the seacock to the thru-hull, with connectors that are easy to get to and install. plus valves, if you have more than one unit on the boat. You will have to periodically use Barnacle Buster to clean out the pipes, and this is best done in recirc mode with a 5 gallon bucket. Also, think about installing a strainer that will accept a pool-cleaner chlorine tablet (or a sizeable piece of a tablet), to keep the piping clean.

Here, this is really useful comment, many thanks!

I am sorry but this article does not help. You should have tested same type of ac across different brands. But here, you are comparing apples to oranges….

Thank you for this article. Very encouraging in a safe manner.

We have a 1998 Beneteau Oceanis 321. We bought the boat in 2015. The first owner installed a Mermaid M6 6,500 BTU air conditioner shortly after he bought the boat. It has a heat cycle. It is designed to cool 550 cubic feet. We keep the boat on Lake Erie and sail six months a year. It works very well. No major repairs. The only repairs have been that we have had to replace the water pump in 2016 and 2022 due to wear and tear on the impeller.

We use the heat cycle in the spring and the fall. We leave it on most of the time at our dock. It keeps the humidity down in the boat. We have two effective 12v fans that we can run when we are not on shore power. We run it off 15 amp, 115 volt shore power.

I have experience as a yacht broker.

I agree with the advice in your article. I would add the following suggestions, 1. If at all possible buy a sailboat with factory A/C. The installation should be neater and easier to maintain. As the article states, most faults are with the installation. The yard who installed ours did a good job but I have seen many others that are less than seamanlike. 2. If installing an A/C unit, ensure you have an easy way to bleed air out of the water inlet plumbing to the pump. We have to bleed the system every spring after winter haulout. It is a pain in our boat. There are self priming pumps available but they are two to three times more expensive. 3. If installing an A/C unit, ensure you have a relatively easy way to clean the inlet water filter strainer. We have to clean the strainer about once a month in the summer. It is a pain on our boat. 4. If you are installing an A/C unit, ensure you install effective sound proofing. Ours is a bit more noisy than the factory A/C units I have experience with.

We have a Swallow Craft Swift 33 sailboat. It is a very large capacity 33′ boat. After almost a year of exploring options for AC we put in an overhead RV unit in the main cabin overhead hatch. One season in Florida and so far, we are very pleased. The unit is a Houghton B3500. It is low profile with 13,000 BTUs of cooling and 12,000 BTUs of heat. We just could not afford the lazarette space for a built in.

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Air Conditioning on A Sailboat? Yes, and It’s Lithium Powered too!

Air Conditioning on a sailboat is a luxury. Especially when we’re at anchor and running everything off solar and battery power.  So, naturally, we get asked about keeping cool on the hook…a lot.

In our last video about sailing with family, I asked Jason’s sister Lauren “ how was it coming from a typical house to sleeping in a boat with no air conditioning ?”.  This question caused a ton of confusing comments on why we didn’t run our A/C for the family.  Fair enough.

The short answer is, we did run the A/C for short stints, but not overnight.  The complete answer to that question is hashed out in the video below.  So….click that play button!

Kinda cool right?!  Ok, now about those details.

Here’s a quick recap of what we covered in the video:

• Why didn’t you run the A/C?   We did in the afternoons when the sun was high (and our solar panels were bringing in lots o’ power to the batteries). It was the hottest part of the day and it’s o-so-nice to circulate air and bring down humidity.
• Why not run the A/C overnight?   We don’t have enough battery power to run the A/C all night and keep up with all the other power demands of the boat.  (It’s a challenge to manage resources with 5 additional people who are not accustomed to living with limited resources).
• Why not run the generator?   10 hours of generator uses about 5 gallons of fuel. That fuel consumption adds up fast and requires us to service the generator more often.  Not to mention there were no fuel stations where we were anchored.  Conserving fuel, parts and our limited resources is important while living off the grid, especially in remote places.
• How do we run the A/C off our batteries?  The short answer is, we installed an Easy Start.

How We Run Our Sailboats Air Conditioning off Battery Power

If you want to run the A/C while you’re living off the grid and on the hook, there are a few things to consider:

• More on lithium batteries:  gonewiththewynns.com/sailboat-tech-why-lithium-batteries
• Lithium Battery Discount!  Relion is offering 5% off to all GWTW Fans!  Just click the link and it will be automatically applied at checkout.  http://bit.ly/RelionLithium
• More on our solar set up here:  gonewiththewynns.com/living-off-grid-rv-sailboat
• More on our inverter here: gonewiththewynns.com/charge-boat-batteries

For reference here are a few common inverters and their claimed peak amps:

• GoPower! IC2000 – 60 amps
• Magnum MS2012 – 50 amps
• Xantrex PROsine 1800 – 45 amps

We’re not reinventing the wheel.   This type of power surge is a common problem with all different types of compressors and pumps. That’s how we found the Easy Start . The RV air conditioner manufacturer told us it was the solution to our “surge” issue.  The Easy Start is a device that gets attached to the A/C and reduces the surge of power (as you saw in the video).  An Easy Start can be used to run an Air Conditioner (or other compressor or pump) off a small generator (like the Honda 2000), low quality (or low amperage) shore power, or through an inverter for off-grid solutions (like tiny homes, RVs and boats).

When we were outfitting Curiosity we knew we wanted to install the Easy Start on our A/C units.  It’s been almost 2 years now and we haven’t had any issues on or off the hook.  Ok, maybe one issue: Jason dreams of adding even more battery power (keep dreaming honey).

But, in all honesty, we don’t run the A/C that often.  When we do, we throw on a scarf and pretend we’re on one of those fancy superyachts.  But mainly, it’s to take the edge off of the peak heat of the day and help control the humidity (aka, the mold).

Discount Code For You!

This is NOT a paid plug or sponsored video. Easy Start didn’t ask us to create any of this, we asked Matteo for his help. Not only did he help us out, but he was also able to score you a discount. And, as the cherry on top, we get a couple of bucks too as a referral.  It’s a win-wynn!  Thanks, Matteo!

• $25 off discount code:   GWTW
• Where to purchase:   http://bit.ly/easy-start-ac

If you have any questions at all leave a comment below and we’ll do our best to answer.  If it’s a technical question we can’t answer, there’s a good chance Matteo will chime in.

How Long Can We Run The A/C Off Battery Power?

We ran a very quick test to give you some real use numbers as we were filming this video.  This isn’t an in-depth test and it is always going to vary as weather conditions change.  For example: How hot is it outside vs what temp we have the A/C set at.  Is the compressor running the whole time or cycling on and off.  How many other electronic devices are running…you get the point.  All of this makes a huge difference in how long we can run the A/C.

• 9 AM – Turn A/C on, set for 77°.  Outside it’s mostly cloudy and 80°.  Batteries are at 67.6% (-388 AMP Hours Down)
• 12 PM – Turn A/C off.  Outside it’s partly sunny and 83°.  Batteries are at 50.7% (-589 AMP Hours Down)
• After 3 hours of running the A/C, we were down -201 AMP Hours

Important to note – We were not running the A/C hard and it was cycling on and off.  Fans, refrigerators, freezers, and our computers were all running.  This typically draws about 15-25 AMPs per hour.  Our solar was bringing in some power (around 30-50 AMPs per hour).  Putting all this together plus our past two years’ experience (especially on much hotter days), we are guessing on average the A/C pulls about 115 AMPs per hour.

The Big Takeaway  – With our 1200 Amp hours of lithium battery power and 1400 watts of solar, we can easily run the A/C for a couple of hours in the early afternoon, and the solar power coming in will top our batteries back up before the sun goes down.

Gear Used In This Video

• Full Review Of All Our Camera Gear:   gonewiththewynns.com/photo-video-gear
• All Things Off-Grid: gonewiththewynns.com/living-off-grid-rv-sailboat

Hello there! I honestly don’t know what to say, so I am going to tell you a bunch of random facts instead. I'm a fish eating vegetarian who hates spiders and loves snakes. I almost never took vacations growing up. I wanted to be Pippi Longstocking (still do). I misspell about every other word I write and still struggle with grammar. I love splurging on a good high tea (which is really hard to find these days). And whatever you do, don’t tell me I can’t do something, because then I'll HAVE to do it!

Comments (84)

There is a lot of info in here, but I can’t find if you used a AC or DC air conditioning unit? Thanks

Is anyone making a sailboat A/C that uses seawater to air cooling?

I’m getting close to getting an a/c unit for my 25’Chris craft. Getting new breaker panels first with a new wall to remove wholes on previous wall. I have 400ah lithium and about 700watts solar. I’m considering purchasing a DC air conditioner which costs about 3times more than an 120v a/c unit. Bit it will draw no more than 30amps on high power. I want it to feel like home! Love watching your show!

I’m not sure I understand the purpose of the Easy Start, is it needed just on initial start-up of the AirCon system, or each time the AirCon cycles onto ‘cooling’ rather than idle? One would mean peak amps drawn only once per day, the other would mean peak amps drawn many times per hour. Hmmm confused

Curious Minion

It’s needed every time the compressor kicks on. Curious Minion

George Spatoulas

You seem to have the same AC unit I have (Cruisair 16000 BTUs) I am trying to find the spechs what are your spechs ? Here is what I have found on Dometic.com website (they have re-branded their AC Units to be under their Dometic.com brand)

Dometic 16000BTU/hr 110v 60hz

Input voltage (AC) 115 V Input frequency 60 Hz Starting current – max 62.00 A Required AC circuit protection min 25.00 A Required AC circuit protection max 40.00 A

Refrigerant, type R410A  Cooling Capacity 16000 Btu/h Current consumption min cooling 10.40 A Current consumption max cooling 10.40 A Current consumption min heating 13.60 A Current consumption max heating 13.60 A

I would appreciate if you tell me if your spech data are similar (or what they are)

Hey guys! Have you heard of a new line of boat AC that was just released? https://youtu.be/ZXEyAtxCjR0 … I thought it was pretty cool

Peanut Gallery

Have you considered a more active “systems” approach to managing the power and sensors on the boat?

For example, a microcontroller interfaced into the battery monitor, solar charger, generator, etc., could track and report usage from the various systems on the boat and automatically kick on the generator if certain criteria are met or if something falls outside of normalized trends for your boat. You could run the A/C all the time when you have land lubber guests it would only kick on the generator when the batteries drop below a pre-programmed threshold, and then shut off when they reach a reasonable charge, something that should only take an hour or so to do instead of running all night. Everything on a boat is about optimization, and that’s something tiny computers do very, very well.

The amount of functionality available on little microcontrollers these days is amazing. Add a cellular card to one and you could even set the boat up for text message alerts (or Telegram or whatever) when you are away for the day if she drags anchor, the bilge pumps kick on, the door or hatches open, or any other kind of thing that you think should be monitored.

rh hutchins

You guys make an old man really jealous! I enjoy your travels vicariously.

You’ve done a good job of explaining things and showing us your experiments leading to decision making. Parallel battery wiring and the EasyStart are just 2 examples. IIRC you stated that your electricity is 12VDC. Did you consider 24 VDC? If so, did you run tests? What were the results?

From watching the Whitakers on Sailing Zatara, I remember that their Privilege came wired for Europe (and other parts of the world) with 24 volt wiring. I remember that Keith explained why and mentioned that all their appliances were not set up with European plugs and power consumption specs, but I don’t remember that they converted to 12 VDC.

Enquiring (old) minds want to know.

It is 12v, mostly because there are lots of electronic gizmos that will charge directly on 12v with no need for a converter or inverter. You can set up a 24v solar system, but you need to somehow account for convertability to 12v for charging. Curious Minion

Okay, I am going to nitpick a little. Several times in the discussion and videos you use the term (units) of Amps per hour (Amps/hour). The quotient or ratio of Amps per hour (Amps/hour) is incorrect here and really does not have meaning (technically it does but I digress). I know others do it too and you have seen it written other places but it is wrong there too. What you mean to say or should say is simply “Amps”. As you know if you multiply Amps and time you get Amp Hours which is absolutely correct and has meaning. The product of current (amps) and time (Hours) yields the unit of charge which is Coulombs. Batteries store charge or Coulombs. That is why we measure battery capacity or battery charge using the product of current (Amps) and time (Hours) which we call Amp Hours.

Okay, I am a “micro engineer” as he said in the video even though I am not sure what that means. I do have a Bachelor Of Science degree in electrical engineering and several patents. More than that I spent 40 years designing and developing electronic power conversion circuits such as those used in battery chargers and inverters. I also have experience with testing and charging batteries and some experience with design of interface power electronics for solar systems (also known as maximum power point trackers (MPPT)). I also own and operate a large boat of my own and spend most weekends operating off grid. What am I trying to say here? I could nit pick a little but I am very impressed with the knowledge and presentation of the Wynn’s on this subject. They are very smart self starter people and they have learned this system very well. I find very little error in anything they present on this very technical subject. I know more than they do but probably could not present it as well. They provide a lot of good, accurate, practical, useable information on this subject. Well done. Keep up the good work. Maybe sometime I might contribute something but for now they pretty well have it covered.

Wow, huge thanks for the kudos Scott! We’re certainly not experts but we do like learning about it all and do our best to share what we’ve learned.

John Arnold

hi guys, i’m late to this ac discussion, which i’m finding very interesting. especially the part about doing without ac.

when i grew up we had no ac, not at home, not at school, nowhere except maybe in sears. haha! of course now i have ac in my home which runs all the time in the summer. in fact it’s a heat pump, so it runs in winter also. except for quarterly inspections by my ac guy, i don’t even have to think about the system. it’s just there. i began thinking about how i got along without it growing up. i don’t remember any suffering or anything. it was just life as i knew it. so i decided to try an experiment and live without ac for an entire summer. now i live in south alabama. it really is similar to florida weather, hot and humid to the extreme. well needless to say nobody thought i’d make it without ac, but i surprised them and myself. i first reinstalled all my window screens and bought a couple of fans to at least move the air. the first few weeks were awful. i couldn’t sleep, was sweating like a pig. however i began to learn how to conserve my energy to remain cooler, how to take full advantage of the moving air the fans gave me. it’s amazing to sit in moving air and very quickly you’re cool and comfortable. i’m gonna stop here, but my point is i did get used to no ac and survived the entire summer. in fact i still use the ac much less than before, so my bills are way lower. i find myself sleeping much better with just a small fan mving the air over me. my friends are impressed!!

So, when you are hooked up to shore power does the AC unit pull power from the battery charger? I want to do something like this and didnt know if i should run a 3 way switch of some kind.

Thank you for posting the video and all the info btw! Helping a lot of us out! Greatly appreciated

If you have a hybrid inverter it could pull power from your batteries if the shore connection isn’t supplying enough power. If you don’t have a hybrid inverter then no, your system should either be pulling power from the shore connection OR the batteries. I wouldn’t recommend trying to DIY a 3-way switch without an electrician. You could seriously damage your system if it isn’t done correctly.

Connie Baker

I live in hot, humid Wilmington, NC, and am planning a voyage of sorts: I have several rare health issues not well treated in-state and plan to live in my van while traveling to medical trials in Boston; Rochester, NY; Rochester, MN; St Louis in a 2002 Sienna Van. The essentials I must have in the van are:

AC 460 Watts/hour cooling, 4 Amperes cooling, max 115 Volts; Bipap run 8 hours at night 80 Watts/ hour, 2-1 Amperes, 100-240 Volts/ hour; Chest Freezer 14.64 ,Watts/hour run 24/7, 3-4 Amps at start then1.5, 120 V; Surface Pro docking station adapter 48 Watt 4 Amp run variably during the day 120-240 V

I’m pulling out the carpet and panels, covering the windows with reflextix, wrapping the interior behind the front seats with 3 inches polyiso (save pop out panels for the back vent windows). The AC will be bolted under sunroof with a plastic bin cut and sealed around to catch and channel condensation and rain.

Will start with Relion batteries, charged at electric car charging stations. As finances allow add two LG350Q1C-A5 350 Watt solar panels on the roof racks…still requiring batteries to be topped off regularly. A generator in the minivan can present space and venting issue but on a trailer can be stolen and then the hassle of a trailer can make life complicated. The max tongue wt is 100 lbs, which is miniscule.

To take the first step of a thousand step journey, I need to decide the amount of batteries I need. I wrestle with that heart-stopping cost of the batteries like everyone else here. Should I stop before I get started? Am I unrealistic? I know the AC watts are for 95 F outdoor temp. How many hours of that am I to anticipate on my northward journey? The range of possibilities with that variable alone confounds me. Can someone offer wisdom on this?

Of note, I have a spaniel, Jimmie, who will need the comfort of the AC even if I’m not in the van. And you have never seen a dog who can communicate his temperature requirements when he is riding shotgun. Its hysterical, He usually gets the lion’s share of the vents pointed at him. Cleo the cat seems more adaptable.

Hi, Jason & Nikki. I’m really curious about the overall amp usage per 24 hour period. As I watched the video on a/c with the amp clamp I wondered just how much DC juice you use a day. With the amp clamp I wondered if that was AC amps or DC amps being monitored. When I use my air it is in AC and via the battery monitor it turns into almost 150 amps DC being pulled out of the batteries. I currently have 875 amp hours of battery and just over 1030 watts of solar and I still have to watch the pull out of the inverter when I want air conditioning or to run the dehumidifier for a long stretch. So naturally from all your videos I see a ton of AC appliances and I’m curiously as to the daily usage. You give me something to shoot for. Keep it up. I just came north from the canal to see what all the ruckus was over the West Coast. Have a safe crossings.

Wonderful video. Props to Matteo. I worked with electrical engineers for 20 years and have never seen such a succinct, informative and logical explanation. Plus, amazing that you built that device. You should do TED talks! Thank you again, Nikki and Jason.

Agreed! He really knows his stuff!

Matteo Giovanetti - Micro-Air, Inc.

Thank you for the compliment Christine and Minion!

Kevin Merrithew

So my question is a little different. My question is about a 110v 15amp water pump at my off grid cabin. I run a 4000 watt Aims inverter with a 16000 surge. The inverter has plenty of grunt for the pump. But the Trojan batteries I have struggle in the winter when the pump starts. They don’t seem to release the amps when cold. The inverter see this as a low voltage situation and shuts down. Would this soft start work for my normal wall outlet pump? And how would I wire it up? Thanks for any help you can give. Also if this would work, where do I order one?

I’m sure Mateo or Jason will chime in here but it sounds more like an issue with your batteries – I’m assuming they’re lead acid or AGM? A soft start won’t hurt but I don’t think it’ll solve your problem. The voltage may be too low in your batteries or you may not have a heavy enough gauge wire between your batteries and the inverter. Keeping the batteries warmer should also help but I don’t know if that’s feasible.

Hello Kevin. Thank you for your question. The short answer is “likely yes”. Given you stated that the inverter normally does have enough surge capacity to source the starting needs of your water pump, and that its only a cold weather situation that causes problems, our estimates are that EasyStart would alleviate the AC surge, thus the DC battery surge requirement, thus making it work. The trouble is, wiring an EasyStart into a single-phase pump motor is often very challenging. This is because pump motors don’t “present” their individual motor winding connections quite as easily as do air conditioner compressors. In such motors, it is often very difficult to isolate the run winding connection, and also to locate and defeat the start winding centrifugal switch and start cap, without completely disassembling the motor and having the manufacturer’s *internal* wiring diagram available as a guide. EasyStarts have been installed into motors like this with success multiple times, but not without a lot of prep work, patience, and perseverance. I’ve talked a lot of customers out of attempting it, especially if they are not willing to do the up front research and if they are at all uncomfortable with electrical wiring.

I would therefore recommend that you get a detailed photo of the motor’s dataplate label and e-mail it to me. If we can find the motor’s internal wiring diagram online, then and only then would I recommend that you proceed and perhaps invest in an EasyStart. Please send an inquiry to us via our website, and I will respond to you.

Nikki and Jason – I think it is about time to think about the 48V DC standard and do away with 12V and 110VAC. 24V has become a standard, and the next step is 48V, which is catching on. It is easier to build a 48V (or 24V) lithium-ion battery than 12V, so in the future 48V batteries will be cheaper than 12V as the cables will be a quarter thinner than 12V and the BMS will be simpler.

The big advantage of 48V is that it allows for high power e-drives (such as the 20 hp (10kW) Torqueedo 48V retractable pod drive), bow/stern thrusters, and electric cooktop and AC. However, eventually e-drives will move to 96V DC and then to the EV standard of 345V DC.

So I recommend looking into the 48V DC standard for air conditioning, cooking, hot water heaters, water maker, lithium-ion batteries, and solar chargers.

The Easy Start states can support both 115 and 230VAC motors. The first scroll option says “115V-only RV A/C”. The other three options do not state voltage at all. So does this mean any of those other three is the one needed for 230VAC. I am not able to find the difference between all those four options of -X20-IP; -X36-IP; -E36-IP; or -T36-IP. Was hoping to find it in FAQ, but didnt.

Matteo Giovanetti

Hello Kevin. Thank you for your comment. The difference in the EasyStart 364 variants is as follows:

ASY-364-X20-IP = For up 20kBTU systems that run on 115VAC/60Hz only (RV applications) ASY-364-X36-IP = For up to 36kBTU systems that run on 115-240VAC/50-60Hz (marine or RV applications) ASY-364-T36-IP = For systems smaller than 10kBTU that run on 115-240VAC/50-60Hz ASY-364-E36-IP = For refrigeration system applications that run on 115-240VAC/50-60Hz

The specialized model variants were introduced for specialized applications. The -X36-IP is the primary model, but we made the -X20-IP to shave off a few dollars for the RV market application.

So I know very little about electricity, but was confused by Jason’s closing comment. The surge load of your inverter is 60 amps and at the end he stated you were pulling 87amps. How does that work?

Hello Brian. Thank you for your comment. Sorry for the confusion on the amperage readouts. The measurements taken at the air conditioning unit itself were the AC amps at 120VAC, whereas the amps reported by the Xantrex meter were on the other (battery) side of the inverter. The Xantrex meter reports the amps going out (or into) the batteries at 12VDC. Remember, the inverter itself is converting 12VDC to 120VAC. Roughly speaking, the amps on the 12VDC battery side are 10 times the amps on the 120VAC side. This is because wattage is conserved (i.e. is about the same), assuming the inverter has perfect efficiency (which it does not, so there are some losses). So, in other words, 120VAC x 10A is 1200W, and that corresponds roughly to 12VDC x 100A on the battery side, which is also 1200W. Yes, the battery currents seem very high as a result, but that’s why inverters have such huge cable connections from the batteries! I hope this helps explain it.

Great video. But my question is, wouldn’t an inverter driven air conditioner compressor be more efficient than putting on an easy start on an on/off cycling conventional compressor? I believe you get the same benefit of no spike current and extra benefit of matching varying thermal load more closely and reducing overall battery drawn down. Hope someone knows more about this than I do.

Great video guys. The information here is priceless. This is my first time to post, but We have been watching your videos for quite some time. We are closing on a Manta 42 catamaran on Tuesday in Florida, and will be taking her to Kemah Texas (currently home) to prepare for our retirement voyage in about two years. Our smallest AC unit is 10,000 BTU, and happens to feed the two aft cabins ( I think) So, the information in this video will sure come in handy. Keep up the good work, and maybe we will cross paths one day. One Texan to another …..dilly dilly…haha

What most people (I’m one of them) need is a breeze when you can’t run the AC. We have 4 small fans that run on 4 D batteries which we can put by our heads and works perfect in warm nights where we may not have power;we even used them in our home during hurricanes when power went out. You guest would be happy just for a breeze when no AC.

We have lots of fans aboard curiosity and even upgraded to the nice sirocco fans before we took off. In the room where Lauren and Gabe slept, they had three fans and one of them was a big fan that moves a lot of air. That is a lot of fan action in a small cabin. For people who don’t often camp or sail, being in non-ac environments for long periods of time is an adjustment period.

It also depends on the environment. Like when I lived in Tampa, FL for couple years. Fan did hardly nothing. Typical day was about 80F or low 80’s. Think in all my time living there, think max I seen was 88F or maybe 89F, but it always felt like it was in 100’s. Fans were not much help, cause it is not the temp that you needed cooling down from. Temp itself was not that bad. Humidity is what made it feel so bloody hot, and a fan did not really help this much at all. People survived in Tampa by going from AC to AC .. either that or sweating horribly, fan or no fan. Ofc in FL they use sump pump AC’s, main purpose is cycle on/off frequently for short periods of time, but draws out lot of water (humidity) from the air. They typically had huge water basin under AC to collect all that water and drain outside. Sailors like to visit such tropical locations it seems.

Hello guys , 1st time to write about your blog. Battery AC. looking for the email of The guy Mateio. He had a very accurate Amp meter I want to find out about. Can you help?

Hi John. Thank you for the question. Don’t laugh, but I built that ammeter out of one of our own Micro-Air marine thermostat controls (the Dometic/Marine Air Systems Passport I/O) and an open-core 100A/0-5VDC current transducer from a company called ACI. It was a “side project” so to speak. Given I wrote firmware for the PPIO display for some of our other products, I modified it to read the current signal, real-time from this ACI transducer about once ever 150us, perform the necessary RMS averaging at high-speed, and then picking out the highest three 60Hz AC alternations (i.e. a moving 50ms averaging window). It’s the next best thing to using an oscilloscope with a clamp-on current probe and measuring the actual waveforms. Unfortunately, that current meter exists only in my lab in FL and there is another one in the lab back in our factory in NJ. We never thought of “productizing” it for commercial sale, but if you were interested, we might be able to help you out. Contact me by sending an inquiry via our website at http://www.microair.net .

Hi John. Thanks for your question. That ammeter I used aboard Curiosity was a “home-grown side-project” done by me, made out of one of our OEM marine thermostat controls, combined with an open-core current transducer from a company called ACI. There are only 2 in existence. It takes RMS measurements of current about once every 150us, and continually monitors a 50ms moving average window (50ms = three 60Hz AC sinusoids), searching for the highest RMS current peak. It’s the next best thing to using an oscilloscope and analyzing the waveform. Unfortunately, although it works amazingly well, we have never made this contraption into a commercial product. If you’re still interested, please send an e-mail inquiry via the Micro-Air website.

Thank you for those awesome explanations. I find that very fascinating.

Hi there just a few coments on your charging systems that may help, your alternators will put out more amps if you change to a external regulator. Example we have litium batteries on our boat with 120 amp alternator when we first installed it through the regulator at 2000 revs we were putting out 135amps so we installed a suppressor (very cheap) so to cut the ams back to 95 amps at 2300rpm so not to overheat the allternator so at cruising revs 1700 we are putting inapprox 75 to 80 amps allternator runs cool at that amps i see you have portable heat sensor to check temp on a along run. Our lithium batteries has a managment system because lithium batteries will accecpt what ever amps you throw at them the managment system was built by a good freind of ours (lectronics wizzard) he has installed this system in a number of yachts with great success. Regarding a bigger battery bank, bigger battery bank means bigger charging capacty which is what you are trying to avoid best to just improve what you have. I would suggest going to 120 amp allternators with external quality regulators, 120 amp allternators can still be run with your current v belts. Then you would be putting in around 160amps while motoring. Do you have amanagment system so not to over charge or run batteries to flat . Hope this helps cheers.l

Will this easy start work with 110v watermakers running on an inverter? We have a rainman 110v that draws 1250 watts after the inital surge. How do you wire that in?

Hi Alex. Thanks for your question. Yes, the EasyStart has been installed with success into the high-pressure pumps on RO watermakers. We have a marine watermaker OEM that builds EasyStarts into their systems. The only difficulty is accessing the necessary wires in your particular motor. Unlike an A/C compressor, a frame motor like is used on a watermaker does not “present” its common, run, and start winding connections quite as readily. It’s always a challenge, and we always advise customers to get the INTERNAL motor wiring diagram from Baldor, Leeson, and WEG motors, BEFORE they purchase the EasyStart. That way we can help advise if it will be feasible or not. Also, most of these motors are 1.5 to 2.5HP, and they use BIG start capacitors. As a result, the EasyStart 368 model is more appropriate since the start capacitor used by the EasyStart often ends up being the same one already installed in the motor. These caps won’t physically fit inside of the EasyStart 364’s IP65 (waterproof) case, but will fit inside the EasyStart 368’s IP65 case.

Sean Imfeld (You Tube - Expedition Vehicle Adventure)

Funny, I remember your AC land video as I was planning on building my own rig. Here I am a few years later and I am about a year from completion. I do have a question for Matteo: I plan on having a 24V battery bank (about 10 – 15 KW) and about 1.2KW of solar and was hoping to run a 9000 BTU Ductless AC. Anything special besides the soft start to make this work well? I am hoping to get the system in prior to summer travels. BTW, have followed you two for years, thanks for the inspiration. You were the first channel to help push me down my international travel road. Thanks again.

Hi Sean. Thank you for your question. That massive battery bank and big solar should be able to keep a 9kBTU system running almost continuously! Depending on the size (wattage) of your inverter, there is a possibility that you may not even need an EasyStart. In other words, the inverter’s surge capacity may be enough to start the 9kBTU A/C when there are only other light auxiliary loads running. Most 9KBTU units will have an LRA rating down in the 40-45A range, so if your inverter can surge to 5500W or so, you might be okay as is. Let me know what inverter you plan to use and I will let you know if an EasyStart will likely be necessary or not.

Sean Imfeld

Matteo, thank you for the response to my question. I am planning on using a Victron 8000 Watt inverter/charger.

Sean – with an 8kW inverter, you should be able to start and run a 9kW A/C without an EasyStart. Give it a shot, and if it doesn’t work, you always know where to go to get the solution :-)!

David Daugherty

Thank you so much for this video guys. We run a kettlecorn business in the midwest summers and use a eu2000 to provide power. We tried using portable AC but the surge kept flipping the breaker and causing more headaches. Going to try this in the upcoming season. I thought I needed to have a bigger generator.

Sheila Hagadone

Can you used it on a 5th Wheel RV?

Hi Sheila. Thanks for the question. Yes indeed, you can use EasyStart on your 5th wheel. We have numerous Grand Design owners who have installed them. Check out their owners forum to see. Most 5th wheels have 2 A/Cs. Installing an EasyStart into both will allow you to operate them off of a 30A hook-up instead of having to search for the more elusive and more expensive 50A hook-ups.

Matteo, we are planning to contact Micro-Air to figure out what type of EasyStart might work with our travel trailer. What information/specs do we need to have ready?

Hi Cherie. You really don’t need anything specific. If your travel travel is in the USA, the EasyStart 364 (ASY-364-X20-IP) is the only model you need.

Thank you, Matteo!

Chris Mehling

Hi Jason and Nikki! Wow – you read my mind. I was watching the video and I thought – Hey, don’t you run your A/C on batteries every once in a while? Anyway, this video was awesome and very informative. I do have another somewhat related question for you.

In a previous video, you said that you would want to get rid of your generator for a few reasons. That really caught me by surprise. With your lithium battery bank and solar, I thought instead you might consider going with electric motors, like what OceanVolt offers. https://oceanvolt.com .

My question to you is this. Did you ever consider this, or is this technology too new from your point of view for crossing an ocean? Based on the reading I’ve done, they claim to be able to run the electric motors off the generator when needed and appear to get a comparable range versus diesel.

What are your thoughts?

It is a good question and one we get often. Motors are very expensive and no small feat to install. Switching out motors would be a very, very expensive modification and retrofit. That is well beyond our budget and then some. Especially considering the motors we have are in perfect working order. For coastal cruising on a small boat electric motors could be fine. As an ocean crossing, world traveling sailing catamaran (two engines needed), electric motors simply are not advanced enough yet in our opinion. If it were a solid option, I guarantee you more sailboats would have them. We seriously considered an electric motor for our dinghy but quickly realized it wasn’t a good idea as the range and power required to recharge was far from ideal. Not to mention new tech like that would be next to impossible to find parts/service for around the world. We already struggle to get the parts we need for regular maintenance in South America, much less the remote islands of the South Pacific.

Thanks for another great video. So glad you are able to do this more technical stuff. I love the travel videos and look forward to them every Sunday! But, these remind me of your old RVing days… nostalgaic… Thanks!!

James Dillon

Awesome Folks! Jason, Sorry buddy, the hair sucked! You should have been on a tourist canoe in Hawaii or a chef at the Bennie Hannah!! LOL Nikki , you look amazingly gorgeous as usual , however, I saw the “shaming bandages ” of the “amateur” rope burn episode, so long ago!! Keep up the great work guys. It is always a highlight to see the new video! I am a thrilled PATREON. Be safe , happy and well! Greeting from Canada- Jamie

Ha ha ha, I can see Jason slinging shrimp and making onion volcanoes on a grill at Bennie Hannah. 🙂 Funny, I didn’t even notice the bandages until someone else pointed them out. I don’t feel quite as green now but still feel like such a sailing newbie. So much to learn! Thanks for the proud love and support. Warm hugs to Canada!

Byron Stuart

Randy of the cruising website “Happy Together” also occasionally has a how-to session or so for their Leopard-48. Episode 10 is about their checklist for leaving and securing the boat for several weeks at a time. I can recommend it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cx-QR7ZnB4A&t=1s They also have “soft start”. At time 11:30 in this video Randy talks about the “dehumidify” mode for their AC. This runs the AC unit(s) a bit about every 6 hours or so to keep the dastardly humidity down. MATTEO, is this one (of several) ways of making things more comfortable while living aboard??

Nancy Fernandez

Great update thanks guys!

Bob and Maureen

What is the model of your 7k btu unit. We have 520ah and 600w of solar. Would like a picture of the unit, if possible. We currently are in Mexico but heading further south later this year.

Jesse Smith

Hi I was wondering what would happen if you overloaded you inverter Thank

Rob McLennan

WE learned the hard way about running the generator to power the 2-roof top AC units and keeping our fully stocked refrigerator going. On our first road trip with our new /used 2005 Rexall Rexair 36B gas motorhome. OMG what an expensive 2 week’s 1,200 mile round trip from North Port Fl to Atlanta Ga. The generator had to run 24/7 @ 1 gallon per hour. Gas prices at that time were $3.64 a gallon. With only a 75 gallon gas tank I was running for a fill up every other day. Also the motor home only gets 2-5mpg with a tail wind going down hill. GMC 496 ci engine. The generator also has an auto cutoff at 3/8 of a full tank. $2,180.00 for driving fuel and $1,220 for refrigerator and A/C Units. Almost $3,500 just for fuel! We stayed with family and no one had a 30-50 Amp 120 AC plug-in. I suggest anyone thinking about purchasing a Class A Motor Home to Rent one first! It will be an expensive rental, but if you purchase new could cost you Hundred’s of Thousands!

Rob. Harbor freight sells the 30amp to 110 converter for about $10.

Raymond Catania

Have you ever thought of installing a smaller unit in the master state room and just cooling that alone? On our boat we have a 7k btu and run it all night most nights off the batteries. It also cycles often, which helps. We only have 400ah, and 450w of solar. We have a lot less that we run off the inverter though, most all of our solar goes to the ac and the fridge.

Certainly, that is why Jason mentioned having an 8,000BTU instead of our 16,000BTU AC. The reality is, we don’t run the AC often enough to justify purchasing and installing another unit. Plus, having one in only the master state room won’t do us much good for our guests that are not acclimated and most uncomfortable. If it were just the two of us and we were going to endure another steamy Florida summer, I think we would go that route for sure.

Great point! We spend most of our time in Florida so the a/c really helps in the summer for sure.

Very cool. Jealous of being able to use the ocean as your condensing unit, vs a typical fan cooled system.

The main load on an AC system is the compressor. The power draw from the blower and (in a land system) condensing fans is minimal. Assuming this system uses a small pump to circulate sea water, it would be a smaller draw as well.

I will definitely keep one of these in mind, although I’m too early in my build/design process to know what size I’ll need.

Howard White

copying this comment from YouTube per your recommendation —

what does it take for you to run your Air Conditioning on Direct Current (too may ACs). Inverters are a major loss point in any power system. Is there anyway you may configure your batteries at higher voltage (48V, 72V or even 96V). The point of AC is transmitting power over distance. Your boat isn’t distance.

Hello Howard. Thank you for the questions. There are some small marine air conditioners on the market that run directly off of 12VDC, but they typically are not much larger than 5000BTU. The Wynn’s need at least one 16k system operating to keep the sleeping cabins cool through the night, and two 16ks to keep the salon cool during the day. Inverters come in all sizes and voltages, and yes there are 24VDC and 48VDC inverters available. That won’t improve the run time and may only slight improve the efficiency. The problem is though that 95% of the other DC loads on the boat want 12V, and the solar panels are 12V, so the bank voltage really needs to be set accordingly.

A retro question (sorry): Re: the Panama Locks…do whales, dolphins, and other large animals ever get caught up in the Locks system and end up going from one ocean to the other?

That is a very good question! I know there are animals (dolphins, gators, fish) in Gatun Lake, which is in the middle of the canal, so I would assume they travel through. All that water rushing in and out though at each of the locks…it has to be a wild ride!

Chris Starnes

Not sure the question was ever really answered so maybe I can ask it in a different way. Say your batteries had a full charge. How long would it take to deplete the batteries completely just continuously running the AC. Not taking into the fact of the Solar recharge during that time. Just simple math. X amp hours at full charge with a X amp draw will give you X hours of AC.

Hi Chris. Thanks for the question. Jason and I did the math earlier this morning. If nothing else is running at all besides the one 16k A/C and its water pump, the batteries start off fully charged, and no additional charging is coming in from the solar panels (i.e. nighttime), we estimated that their 1200Ah battery bank could run the A/C for about 6 hours. Jason’s estimate in the video corresponds and is wisely more conservative because there are always plenty of other 12V loads in the boat that must stay energized, like bilge pumps, electronics, lighting at night, etc.

Matteo is The Man!

Matteo: What type of schooling/education program did you go through to learn to do what you do?

Thanks, and love the channel/blog guys!

Glenn and Isaiah ( my grandson and first mate)

Curious here. Can you get more “juice?” With more solar and maybe a wind generator? I have no idea. I’m just asking. I am trying to learn all I can too before following in your footsteps. I’m a beginning sailor, not lots of time on the water; if that makes sense. Thank you

Hi Glenn and Isaiah. Thanks for your question. Yes, if the Wynn’s had a wind generator on their boat, they could have more “positive” amps feeding their batteries during the day and more importantly the night, in order to extend the total run time of the A/C. Many sailboat owners have both solar and wind generators. The downside of a wind generator is that it takes up space in the back and it does make noise at night. Some people don’t mind them though. You can get wind generators that are upwards to 600W, so that’s pretty substantial. That’s about 35% of the A/C + SW pump load in the Wynn’s case, so that would certainly extend their overnight run time. Right now though, with 1200Ah of batteries, they can get away without a wind generator. If you wanted to spend less on batteries and more on generation, wind plus solar is the way to go.

Allan "RocKiteman" Gaines

This is kinda/sorta related to the boat A/C deal, & involves wind generators.

A while back, I read something online about a company that offers vertical axis wind turbines that get mounted in pairs on the mast, halfway or more to the mast top.

Would that kind of setup provide as much electricity as a horizontal-axis turbine?

{Thanks in advance!}

We do have more space available on our roof for more solar but, at the moment, we have a good sytem going. We could add more solar and more battery and get away with running the AC all night long no problem. That said, we don’t run the AC often enough to justify the additions. Wind generation on a boat is great in theory, not so great in reality. We’ve done a ton of research and talked to a long list of sailors with wind turbines that say if they could do it again, they wouldn’t install one. Noise, vibration, space, weight, expense and lack luster performance is the bulk of the responses we’ve heard. They require very specific wind velocity to work. 8 times out of 10, the wind is to little or to much. We talk about why we don’t have a wind generator on our boat in this video: gonewiththewynns.com/charge-boat-batteries

John Gagnon

Cross posting from Youtube, didn’t know I could comment here!

Are you ever in areas with very LOW HUMIDITY? Are swamp coolers an option? Requires water and very low humidity but also very low energy costs. I think you guys might have had one in the RV?

To my knowledge they never had a swamp cooler on an RV. I think life on a sailboat in warmer climates means you will have humidity no matter what. I don’t think a swamp cooler would be a good investment.

Swamp coolers can be awesome (you probably remember us showing how they work at Burning Man). However, living on the ocean ensures we are almost always in a humid environment. Swamp coolers sadly would do us no good here.

Another great how you did it video. Thanks. Is the Easy Start wired to help with the blower start up as well or is it just wired to assist with the compressor start up?

Hi Dave. Thanks for the question. The EasyStart is only wired to assist with the compressor start up.

Really enjoyed the last Vbog with the family, one of the best one yet!

Very good evaluation. You can cross check your measurements with the theoretical. All you need is the HP rating of the AC unit. This includes the fans/blowers. Rated Hp is essentially KVA and since you are concerned about amps, simply divide KVA by system volts. Assume a 50 percent duty cycle and now you have amp hours. Amps/2. Now comes the question about battery connection. I am assuming you use a 12V system. If everything runs on 12 v, no problem. If it’s 120vac, your battery load will be 10 times the 120vac current.

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1st DC Powered Air Conditioner On An Oceanis 30.1 Sailing Yacht

The best way to beat the heat on a sailboat..

Sailing is one of the most authentic forms of boating. The earliest record and detailed description of a boat with sails dates back to the ancient Egyptians during 3,000 BC. Egyptian boats commonly featured sails as well as oars. Then the Greeks, Phoenicians, Romans, Vikings, and Europeans adopted their own versions of a sailing boat. Overtime, sailboats became a fundamental invention in human history — pivotal in migration, trade, and warfare.

We’ve come a long way since the ancient Egyptians, but sailboats always seem to keep their character. They’re simple structures that can take you around the world. Although, cruising in a sailboat means sacrificing a few luxury comforts that some boat owners may take for granted.

Finding A Solution To The Heat

During the Miami Boat Show in February 2020 , a Denison client bought a Beneteau Oceanis 30.1 . It has 2 staterooms, 1 head, no generator, and no AC. The client fell in love with the boat as he started using it in South Florida. Then he slowly began to realize how hot the vessel got without an AC unit. As many sailors know, it can be impossible to escape the heat on a sailboat.

The client contacted Denison’s Service division to find a way to make sailing on his Beneteau Oceanis 30.1 a more comfortable experience for him and his family. So Denison Service team member, Brian Clemens installed an ac unit that’s one-of-a-kind.

How It Works

It’s a powerful system in terms of cooling without a generator, saving you weight, space, maintenance, heat, and fuel consumption. The 12000 BTU 12-volt air conditioner runs off a separate lithium battery bank with 750 amp hours total. It can run 16 hours (continuously) on batteries alone, giving you up to two full nights of cool and comfortable sleep without running the engine.

This particular Oceanis 30.1 can replenish the batteries dockside, using shore power or the main engine (which has a 125 amp hour alternator that can charge the lithium batteries via a 12-volt-through-12-volt converter).

Reviewing The AC System

When Denison yacht broker Jeff Erdmann heard about an Oceanis 30.1 with a DC powered air conditioner, he had to see it for himself. He brought a camera, a thermometer, and his passion for boats with him to inspect a 1200 BTU 12-volt air conditioner installed onto a 30-foot sailboat.

“The first time I saw the install, I told Brian that this was a superyacht quality installation on a 30 footer,” Erdmann said when asked about the new installation. “It’s whisper quiet and ice cold.”

To the best of Denison’s knowledge, this is the first DC air conditioning installed on a sailboat. When asked how much the installation cost, Erdmann gave a sly smile.

“Priceless, in relation to your comfort onboard the boat.”

These Denison clients are taking the joys of sailing to the next level. Where will this upgraded Beneteau Oceanis 30.1 travel to next? They’ll possibly sail along the east coast of Florida, down to the keys and into the Caribbean. With that kind of sailing comfort, you can go anywhere.

Ready to find your next dream sailboat? Contact a Denison yacht broker to get started.

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Do Sailboats Have Air Conditioning? Here’s What You Should Know

Have you ever spent a hot summer day out on your sailboat? You may have found yourself dreaming of air conditioning.

But can you actually install air conditioning on a sailboat? In this article, we’ll explore the topic of sailboat air conditioning, including the benefits, types of systems, installation considerations, and more.

Whether you’re looking to install air conditioning on your sailboat or you’re in the market for a sailboat that already has air conditioning installed, this article will provide the information you need.

Read on to learn more about sailboat air conditioning.

Table of Contents

Short Answer

Most sailboats do not come with air conditioning as a standard feature.

However, many sailboats can be retrofitted with air conditioning units that are powered by the boat’s main power supply or a generator.

Air conditioning units for boats are usually designed to be energy-efficient and compact to fit in the limited space available on a sailboat.

Additionally, some sailboats may come with air conditioning as an optional feature.

The Benefits of Air Conditioning on a Sailboat

When it comes to sailing, comfort is key, and having air conditioning on board can make a world of difference.

Air conditioning can help to keep the interior of the boat cool and comfortable in hot climates, and can also help to reduce humidity levels, so that you dont have to worry about mold or mildew developing.

In addition, air conditioning can be a great way to keep the boats interior temperature at a comfortable level, even when youre out of the sun.

Air conditioning also helps to reduce noise levels on the boat.

The sound of the wind and waves can be soothing, but when its hot and humid, the noise levels can be overwhelming.

With air conditioning on board, you can keep the noise levels to a minimum, allowing you to enjoy a peaceful day on the water.

Finally, air conditioning can be a great way to extend the life of your boat.

By keeping the interior of the boat cool and dry, you can help to protect the boats hull and other components from extreme temperatures, humidity, and sun damage.

This can help to keep your boat in great condition for years to come.

Overall, air conditioning can be a great addition to any sailboat.

It can help make sailing more comfortable and enjoyable, and can help to keep your boat in great condition for years to come.

Types of Air Conditioning Systems

When it comes to air conditioning systems for sailboats, there are several different types to choose from.

Portable air conditioners are the most common type and are great for smaller boats.

These units are lightweight and easy to install and can provide cooling for up to several days.

For larger sailboats, a more permanent system may be necessary.

These systems require a professional installation, and can provide cooling for extended periods of time.

They may also be able to cool multiple rooms.

For those looking for a more energy-efficient option, there are also solar-powered air conditioning systems.

These systems are powered by the sun and can provide cooling even in the hottest climates.

Solar-powered air conditioning systems are perfect for those who want to stay cool and reduce their carbon footprint at the same time.

Finally, some air conditioning systems are powered by the boats engine.

These systems can provide cooling even in the most extreme conditions.

However, they require a professional installation and can be costly.

No matter which type of air conditioning system you choose, its important to do your research and make sure that it is the right fit for your sailboat.

Its also important to make sure that the installation is done properly and that all safety precautions are taken.

With proper care and maintenance, your air conditioning system can provide years of reliable cooling.

Installation Considerations

When it comes to installing air conditioning on a sailboat, there are a few things to keep in mind.

The first is the size and type of air conditioning unit you want to install.

Portable units can be installed in smaller boats, while larger sailboats may require more complex and permanent installations.

When shopping for an air conditioning unit, it is important to consider the size of your boat and the power requirements needed to run the unit.

The second factor to consider is the mounting location for the air conditioning unit.

It needs to be mounted in a location where it wont interfere with the boats navigation and maneuverability.

Additionally, the location needs to be easily accessible for maintenance and repairs.

Finally, it is important to consider the type of refrigerant used in the air conditioning unit.

Different types of refrigerants have different cooling capacities and can affect the efficiency of the unit.

Depending on the size of the boat, different types of refrigerants may be necessary.

In conclusion, air conditioning is a great way to stay comfortable on the water, and can be a great addition to any sailboat.

When it comes to installation, it is important to consider the size and type of unit, the location of the unit, and the type of refrigerant used.

With the right considerations, you can make sailing more enjoyable with air conditioning.

How to Select the Right Air Conditioning System for Your Sailboat

When it comes to selecting the right air conditioning system for your sailboat, there are a few important factors to consider.

First, you should consider the size of your boat and the amount of space available for the air conditioning unit.

If you have a large boat, you may need a larger unit to effectively cool the entire vessel.

If you have a smaller boat, you may be able to get by with a smaller unit.

Additionally, you should consider the type of air conditioning system you want.

There are several types of air conditioning systems available, including portable systems, window units, and central air units.

Each of these systems has their own benefits and drawbacks, so its important to consider which type is best suited for your boat.

When it comes to installation, its important to consider the complexity of the job.

If youre comfortable with basic DIY projects, you may be able to install the air conditioning unit on your own.

However, if youre not experienced with DIY projects, it may be best to hire a professional to install the unit.

Additionally, you should consider the cost of the air conditioning system.

Portable units tend to be more affordable, while window units and central air systems can be more expensive.

Finally, when selecting an air conditioning system for your sailboat, its important to consider the energy efficiency of the unit.

Look for units that have a high Energy Star rating, as these are the most efficient and cost-effective units available.

Additionally, you should consider maintenance requirements for the unit.

Some units may require more frequent maintenance than others, so its important to find one that fits your needs.

By considering these factors, you can be sure to select the right air conditioning system for your sailboat.

With the right system, you can stay comfortable and enjoy your time on the open waters.

How to Properly Maintain Your Air Conditioning System

Maintaining your air conditioning system is essential for keeping your sailboat comfortable in hot or humid weather.

First, you should have your air conditioning system professionally serviced at least once a year.

This will help ensure that it is working properly and efficiently.

During the service, your technician should inspect the filters, clean the coils, and check the refrigerant levels.

They should also look for any signs of damage or wear and tear.

Additionally, you should regularly check the filters and clean them as needed.

Clean filters will help keep your air conditioner running more efficiently and help reduce your energy costs.

You should also regularly inspect the air conditioners condensate drain, which is responsible for carrying away condensation that accumulates on the coils.

If the drain is clogged or the condensation isnt draining properly, it can cause serious damage to your air conditioner and your sailboat.

Make sure to check the condensate drain and clear it out as needed.

Finally, you should make sure the air conditioner is properly insulated.

This will help keep your sailors comfortable and help reduce energy costs.

A well-insulated air conditioner will also be quieter and more efficient.

Make sure to check the insulation and replace it if necessary.

By properly maintaining your air conditioning system, you can ensure your sailboat is comfortable and your air conditioner is running as efficiently as possible.

With a little care and attention, your air conditioning system will be a great addition to your sailboat.

What to Look Out for When Choosing a Sailboat with an Air Conditioning System

When selecting a sailboat with an air conditioning system, there are several factors to consider.

First, you’ll want to ensure that the air conditioning system is properly sized for your boat and the number of passengers or crew onboard.

An undersized air conditioning system can be inefficient and costly to operate, while an oversized system will be more expensive to purchase and may not cool the boat evenly.

Additionally, you’ll need to consider the type of cooling system you prefer.

Portable air conditioning units are a good choice for smaller sailboats, as they can be easily moved as needed.

However, for larger boats, a permanent installation may be the best option.

You’ll also need to check to see if the air conditioning system is compatible with the boat’s power system, as some air conditioning units require a dedicated power source.

Finally, you’ll want to make sure that the air conditioning system is properly maintained and serviced, as this will help to ensure that it runs efficiently and lasts for years to come.

Pros and Cons of Installing Air Conditioning on Your Sailboat

When considering air conditioning for your sailboat, it’s important to consider the pros and cons before making a decision. Air conditioning can be a great addition to a sailboat, as it can help keep temperatures down and make the boat more comfortable for all passengers. However, it can also be a costly installation and require a large amount of energy to run. Here are some of the advantages and disadvantages of installing air conditioning on your sailboat:

Air conditioning can help keep passengers cool while out on the open water, making sailing more enjoyable and comfortable.

A properly-installed air conditioning system can help extend the life of your sailboat, as it can help reduce moisture levels and prevent mold and mildew from forming.

Air conditioning can help improve the resale value of your sailboat, as many potential buyers may be looking for a boat with air conditioning.

Installing an air conditioning system can be a costly endeavor, requiring a substantial amount of upfront costs.

Air conditioning systems require a lot of energy to run, which can mean a higher fuel bill for your boat.

Air conditioning systems require regular maintenance to ensure they’re running efficiently and safely.

Ultimately, whether or not you choose to install air conditioning on your sailboat is a personal decision.

Weighing the pros and cons can help you make an informed choice that’s right for you and your boat.

Final Thoughts

Having air conditioning on a sailboat can make your sailing experience much more enjoyable, and it’s important to understand the types of systems available, as well as the installation and maintenance considerations.

With the right knowledge, you can make an informed decision about whether or not air conditioning is right for you and your sailboat.

Now that you know the basics of air conditioning for sailboats, you’re ready to hit the water and enjoy the breeze in comfort!

James Frami

At the age of 15, he and four other friends from his neighborhood constructed their first boat. He has been sailing for almost 30 years and has a wealth of knowledge that he wants to share with others.

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The Marine Electronics Hub

• LiFePO4 / Cabin & deck gear / Network & control / Electrical & Engines / The future / Green Boating

A cool and quiet sailboat thanks to efficient air conditioning, LiFePO4 batteries, and Integrel

by Ben Stein · Published July 20, 2022 · Updated July 20, 2022

I work around boats pretty much every day of my life. So, what would cause me to jump in my car and drive 28 hours round trip to go see a boat? The answer: A brand new, luxury 44-foot sailboat ordered with no generator and no air conditioning. But fear not, although it was delivered without systems many regard as required, it’s now been outfitted with arguably the best air conditioning and power systems available.

The combination of highly efficient air-conditioning from Termodinimica , Victron batteries, power conversion and distribution equipment, Kilovault LiFePO4 batteries, and Integrel’s 9kw power generation solution make comfort aboard possible in a way that was a dream just a few years ago. These systems deliver comfort and quiet, without a generator.

The obvious hesitation with an all DC boat is will it stand up to extended use and cruising? I visited the boat during the commissioning stage of the myriad systems aboard. From what I saw, the systems are up to delivering on the promise of silent comfort with ample juice for many years to come.

Phil Gutowski and his company, BoatRX have carved out quite a niche designing and installing high-efficiency air conditioning systems in boats of all shapes and sizes. Phil was kind enough to write a primer on DC air conditioning for Panbo several years ago that captured the attention of many regular Panbo readers.

Phil’s article concentrated on DC air conditioners making climate control possible on vessels that previously had none. But, that’s not the case on Cinnamon Girl. Instead, the owner of this new build, 44 Jeneau Sun Odyssey has chosen advanced air conditioning, batteries, power management, and power generation in order to deliver an efficient, quiet boat that’s not dependent on a generator running to deliver comfort.

Let’s start by understanding what the owner was after when he started this project: To start, the owner was clear he wanted to deliver cruising comfort without a generator. Additionally, he required full air conditioning overnight with power delivered via batteries. In order to run the air conditioning from batteries, it’s critical you can quickly replace the energy consumed from the batteries. So, fast recharging of the batteries is another requirement. The owner will install a watermaker, so power for the watermaker and other ship systems is factored in. Lastly, in addition to bulk charging sources, solar panels will also be added to the boat.

BoatRX presented three different options to the owner. Two of the options relied on all 12-volt designs with more traditional alternators. The third, and winning, proposal relies on a 48-volt battery bank that powers a large inverter. That inverter powers the air conditioning loads as well as all onboard 110-volt systems and loads. Additionally, there’s a 12-volt house bank to power all the boat’s 12-volt loads.

To really understand everything that is happening aboard Cinnamon Girl , I think we need to look at three major separate systems that make the magic happen. These systems were carefully engineered by BoatRX to work together and deliver the desired ownership experience. They are the air conditioning system from Termodinamica , the power system consisting of AC (240 volts and 120 volts) and DC systems (both 12 and 48 volts), and Integrel’s advanced 48-volt alternator system. This was a large project. Installation took several weeks and the total budget was around $135,000. The owner did mention that ordering the boat without air and a generator saved nearly half the project cost.

Power system

The final power system aboard Cinnamon Girl consists of a 120-volt / 240-volt alternating current system and a 48-volt DC house system, and a 12-volt DC house system. Additionally, there are lead-acid engine start and bow thruster batteries.

Shore power

A North American spec Jeanneau 440 comes with a single 240-volt, split-phase, 50-amp shore power inlet. Once on the boat, power is divided into two 120-volt legs and distributed throughout the boat at 120 volts.

The new air conditioning system requires 240 volts, so some changes were necessary. BoatRX modified the boat’s electrical system to directly route 240-volt power to the boat’s inverter, then to a Victron Autotransfomer and then, for house loads, back to the boat’s AC distribution panel.

The heart of the newly reconfigured AC power system is a 5000-volt-amp, 230-volt Victron Multiplus-II and a 120/240-volt, 32-amp Autotransformer . When connected to shore power, the inverter accepts a 240-volt input from shore power and outputs 230v to the Autotransformer. The Autotransformer accepts the 230-volt single-phase, 60hz output from the inverter and creates 120/240-volt 60hz split-phase output.

The combination of the Autotransformer and Multiplus-II give tremendous input power flexibility. The inverter will accept input power from 187 to 265 volts at a frequency between 45 and 65 hertz. Plus, in the event of smaller available shore power circuits, the inverter can utilize Victron’s PowerAssist to augment available power.

The only AC loads on the boat not powered via the inverter are the hot water heater and a dedicated 12-volt battery charger. The boat has to be connected to shore power for the element to heat.

House and inverter batteries

Cinnamon Girl has two separate lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) battery banks. There’s a 48-volt bank composed of four 25.6-volt, 200 amp hour Victron Lithium Battery 25.6 Smarts. Connected in serial and parallel, the total capacity of the bank is 400 amp hours at 48 volts or roughly 20-kilowatt-hours. There’s also a 12-volt parallel string of Kilovault 100-amp hour batteries providing a total of 3.6-kilowatt-hours.

The 48-volt battery bank services just the inverter but has a plethora of charge sources. When connected to shore power, the inverter charges the batteries at up to 70 amps continuously. That’s an impressive 3.36-kilowatts of charge current or the equivalent of 280 amps of charge at 12 volts. The 48-volt bank will also be charged by 1,000 watts of solar via Victron MPPT controllers. Lastly, and far from least, the Integrel system will also charge the bank at up to 9 kilowatts or a somewhat staggering 188 amps at 48 volts.

In normal operation, the 48-volt bank sits at the top of the DC food chain. This bank accepts charge from the sources outlined above and then shares power with the 12-volt house battery bank, engine battery, and bow-thruster battery. This power sharing happens through Victron MPPT chargers used as DC-to-DC converters. Phil Gutowski explained they selected MPPTs rather than Orions because of the greater voltages supported and size configurations available.

But, even without the 48-volt bank, the 12-volt bank isn’t suffering from a lack of charging options. BoatRX installed four Victron MPPTs employed as DC to DC converters charging the 12-volt house batteries from the 48-volt bank. There’s also a 240-volt AC to 12-volt DC battery charger to charge the 12-volt house bank, engine start, and bow-thruster batteries. Lastly, the Yanmar 4JH’s 120-amp alternator, paired with a Balmar MC618 regulator, charges all three banks.

Integrel power generation system

Integrel’s power generation system can generate up to 9 kilowatts of power from the main propulsion engine. On Cinnamon Girl it’s mated the Yanmar 4JH57. Originally developed by Nigel Calder, Integrel utilizes an extremely high output alternator producing around 56 volts to charge a 48-volt battery bank. They call the system an engine-mounted generator to better convey the quantity of power the system can produce.

Integrel’s advanced control system utilizes numerous sensors and a J1939 connection to the engine’s control unit to regulate the system. The control system utilizes engine load information so that it can dial back the load it places on the engine. This ensures there’s sufficient propulsive power available but allows Integrel to harness power that would otherwise be wasted.

Fitting the large Integrel alternator into the engine compartment was a tight squeeze. In fact, it was so tight a hole had to be cut alongside the engine to make room for the alternator. The hole will get an access plate in the final stages of installation.

Air conditioning

The biggest driver behind this entire project is the extended air conditioning run time powered by batteries. To do that, two things are necessary: a large battery bank and efficient air conditioning. But, more efficient air conditioning means smaller battery banks or longer runtime off of batteries.

BoatRX selected the most efficient air conditioning system in the market. Termodinamica’s Compressor Box and air handlers . Although Termodinamica relies on proven technology, they’ve put it all together in a way the marine market hasn’t seen before.

Variable capacity

Combining a variable-capacity compressor with variable speed fans and a sophisticated control system deliver peak efficiency. The illustration above shows some of the benefits of variable capacity AC systems. Traditional, fixed capacity, AC systems are either on or off. As a result, they blast cold air until the set point is reached. Then, they shut off and let the room’s temperature climb until it’s high enough to cycle back on. Variable speed systems simply reduce the compressor’s speed to match the call for cooling. As a result, the room’s temperature is more consistent. Additionally, because the system runs consistently, humidity is more effectively controlled by being evaporated out of the continuously cooled air.

For many of us, our first exposure to variable capacity air conditioning systems was probably from a mini-split system. Most mini-split systems use variable capacity to deliver quiet cooling at just the rate needed to keep the space comfortable. Variable-capacity is also marketed as inverter or VFD (variable frequency drive) air conditioning. Inverter and VFD refer to the actual technology used to vary the capacity of the system.

Termodinamica employs a variable capacity mechanism called VRV or variable refrigerant volume (often called VRF or variable refrigerant flow) to deliver carrying amounts of refrigerant based on the load. This is done by varying the speed at which the compressor runs. To vary the speed of an alternating current motor, you vary the frequency of the power. In North America, alternating current alternates at 60 hertz, or 60 times per second. To slow down an AC motor you slow the frequency with which the power alternates. An air conditioning compressor is essentially an AC motor, so to slow it down and hence reduce its capacity, we slow the frequency of the power. To do this, incoming alternating current is rectified to direct current (DC) and then inverted back to AC at a different frequency. Conversion losses are relatively small at each step, but it’s still likely that 10-15% of our power is lost to conversion.

In their marketing materials, Termodiniamica claims a minimum of a 50% reduction in power compared to traditional systems. We’ll see Cinnamon Girl’s results a bit later and can compare, but based on what I’ve seen, the claim seems accurate.

Distributing the cool

Now we really get into the heart of what makes the Compressor Box system different than what we’ve seen before. In concept, Have Another Day has a similar system to Cinnamon Girl . The compressors (or condensers) on Have Another Day are in the engine room while air handlers (or evaporators) are spread throughout the boat. But, my system lacks the flexibility and efficiency of Termodinamica’s. I have a 48,000 BTU compressor for my salon. That compressor serves two 24,000 BTU air handlers. It’s all controlled by one thermostat and when the thermostat calls for cooling, both air handlers run at full capacity. I can’t only run one evaporator at a time and I can’t run them at anything less than 100%.

Each air handler has an electronically controlled expansion valve to precisely control the refrigerant that passes through the evaporator coil. There’s a control box connected to each air handler that controls the expansion valve and communicates the air handler’s cooling demand to the Compressor Box via ModBus.

Mix and match flexibility

The beauty of this approach is the flexibility it affords. If only one air handler needs cooling, the compressor will produce appropriate cooling for just that unit. The compressor’s ability to match its capacity to the demand from the air handlers affords flexibility in designing the system. If Cinnamon Girl had been ordered with air conditioning, it would have come with a 16,000 BTU unit in the salon. That unit would be sized according to well established formulas that deliver the best compromise of cooling capacity and humidity control. We are all programmed to think a bigger unit is inherently better, but that’s not the case with traditional air conditioners.

A larger unit may be able to reach your desired temperature faster. That sounds like a good thing, and for meeting your temperature requirements, it is, but much of the comfort we get from air conditioning is from cool dry air. Air conditioners dry the air by blowing warm, humid cabin air across cold coils. The humid air meeting the cold coils causes the water vapor in the air to condensate on the coils, drain down to the condensate pan, and be drained overboard. But, it takes a lot of air flow across the coils to drain all that humidity. If the desired temperature is reached too fast, the air will be cooled but not dehumidifier.

The variable capacity of the compressor and air handlers in the Termodinamica system mean that, within reason, the air handlers can be oversized a little. If it takes 16,000 BTU to cool and dehumidify the space most of the time, that’s where the system will run. But, if you’ve just returned to the boat on a hot day and the system has been turned off, additional capacity will be available to get rid of the excess heat quickly.

The flexibility capacity gives the system designer Lego like mix and match options. A boat could be outfitted, again within reason, with more air handler capacity than compressor capacity. Many boats’ use patterns suggest there will never be a time when all the air handlers will run at full capacity at the same time. So, if you know that stateroom systems only get turned on in the evening, when the salon system isn’t working hard, you can size the compressor box appropriately.

The Compressor Box supports up to five air handlers with its internal power supply. With an external power supply, the limiting factor will be the total cooling capacity of the compressor.

Precise control

Termodinamica achieves its efficiency by precisely controlling the system’s operation. The fans in the air handlers have 250 speeds, the compressor speed is highly variable and all aspects of the system are monitored. Having spent too much time troubleshooting my own system, I’d love to have all this information at a glance.

Why 48 volts?

I’ve written a piece discussing the merits and downsides of a 48-volt DC system afloat. But, for this project, Integrel’s ability to rapidly recharge its 48-volt bank determined the voltage of the battery bank. In my other entry, I point to the architecture BoatRX used as the most logical based on 48-volt component availability. By using a split system BoatRX was able to take full advantage of the benefits of 48-volt while minimizing the downsides. Also, 48-volt is the foundation of Integrel’s capabilities. I don’t think there would be any chance of generating 9 kilowatts of power at 12 volts from a single alternator without massive cooling and a physically much bigger alternator.

Running the system

I arrived at Cinnamon GIrl well into the commissioning phase of the project. It was a warm and humid day on the Chesapeake, so I was quite happy the air conditioning was working. Coincidentally, the day I arrived the local power utility was doing work that required turning off the power at the marina. Fortunately, I was visiting a boat with battery-powered air conditioning. Between battery-powered air conditioning and all loads — except for the hot water heater — powered by the inverter, the loss of utility power was a non-event.

Efficient cooling

The graph at the start of this section shows power consumption through the inverter on the day I visited. This was measured and recorded via Victron’s VRM. The inverter feeds all loads except the hot water heater, so it’s a full accounting of all power consumption on the boat. Because there was a lot of commissioning work being done on the boat, the companionway door was opened frequently, which meant the air conditioning had to work harder. According to VRM, for the nearly seven hours I was there, the system average just under 1.5 kilowatts of power consumption.

Based on the 20-kilowatt battery bank, 1.5 kilowatts would give a total runtime for the system of about 13 hours if you discharge the batteries to zero percent. Or, just shy of 11 hours if you discharge to 20 percent state of charge. But, I was also there for the hottest part of the day and I was there before the solar installation was completed. The boat will be fit with 1,000 watts of solar. The beauty of solar as a power source for air conditioning is that the times when the most air conditioning is needed are also the times when the most solar energy can be harvested. Even just 3 kilowatts of solar will likely add a couple of extra hours of runtime to the batteries.

Remember, the owner’s original requirement was to be able to run the air conditioning overnight from battery power. Power usage overnight will be a fraction of the daytime totals. So, I think it’s very safe to say the overnight requirement will be a piece of cake for this system to meet. Indeed, three recent nights’ consumption, shown above, average just under 9 kilowatts of power consumption from 8 pm to 8 am. At that rate, and with the support of some solar production, it seems that 24 hours of runtime is within reach.

Massive power generation

I realize that at first, the image above doesn’t look too odd, but the little box in the center bottom that reads “DC Power” has a huge number displayed. When this picture was taken, the engine was running at 1,600 RPM and Integrel was generating just short of 8,000 watts of 48 volt DC power. That’s a ton of power! Take a look at the battery icon on the bottom left of the image. The batteries are getting charged at 101 amps. But, remember, these are 48-volt batteries. That’s the equivalent of a 12-volt bank being charged at 400 amps.

The air conditioning was running while the engine was running and Integrel was charging the batteries. So, 2,200 watts of energy were going to power the air conditioning. If we’d turned that off, we could have dumped an additional 40-45 amps of charge current. With a 400 amp-hour or roughly 20 kW battery bank, Integrel is theoretically capable of charging a fully depleted bank in under three hours. The one caveat to this is that the Integrel alternator generates significant heat and the engine compartment is pretty small without a ton of ventilation. That means it is likely that Integrel’s controller will dial back the power production a little to keep the alternator cool.

The numbers were so good coming from Integrel that I felt compelled to do a little independent verification. The chart above is from Fluke Connect, the measurement app my Fluke 376FC uses to record measurements. I put my meter on the main battery cables so I could measure all current in and out of the batteries. The chart shows power being consumed as a positive number. In this case, that was the air conditioning running, drawing just under 50 amps. Then, the engine is started and after a brief delay Integrel starts making power. That climbs to about 5 kilowatts of production — from just under 50 amps of consumption to 50 amps of charge — before engine RPMs are increased from about 1,000 RPMs to 1,600 RPMs and power production increases to a total of just under 150 amps.

Silent cooling and plentiful power

I spoke with the owner of Cinnamon Girl after he’d taken delivery of the boat and had the opportunity to use her on a few shakedown cruises. Our conversation made clear how satisfied he is with the boat and the systems. He reported that their first weekend on the boat they went a day and a half without shore power, running the air conditioning when they wanted, and still had 40 percent battery state-of-charge remaining when they returned to shore power. His only real lament was the lack of app-based control of the air conditioning system. On the other hand, he couldn’t say enough nice things about working with BoatRX. He was thrilled with the craftmanship of the work and the job they did making all these systems simply disappear into the boat.

Cinnamon Girl isn’t the first boat with air conditioning and she’s not the first boat built without a generator. But, she is the first boat I’ve been on with battery-powered air conditioning, ample battery capacity, and the ability to rapidly recharge her batteries. I’m going to be watching her VRM portal carefully to see how it works in real-world cruising, but I suspect the owner will rarely have to fire up the engine just to charge the batteries. Solar power generation and an hour or two of motor runtime should be all the boat needs to keep the batteries topped up and the cabin cool.

Related Posts:

Publisher of Panbo.com, passionate marine electronics enthusiast, 100-ton USCG master.

9 Responses

• Pingbacks 0

Great article!

Good article and would be very interested in seeing a followup when the system has been used more. It would also be interesting to know the type of cruising the owner does as it appears that the system could support less than two days at anchor without firing up the main engine for about four hours to get back to 80% SOC. Did the owner have any rationale for only being able to run the water heater on shorepower?

Great article. I have a similar victron setup 12v. Can you tell me what the (dc power) represents? Thank you Clay

I think you’re referring to DC power in the picture of the Touch 50 towards the bottom of the article. If so, that figure represents the DC power the Victron GX (Cerbo on Cinnamon Girl) has calculated. It’s calculating this based on the points in the system it can measure. So, on Cinnamon Girl it can see how much power is flowing into or out of the batteries and how much power is coming from the solar controllers. But, there’s not a VE-connected meter on the output of the Integrel alternator. So, that’s calculated as part of the “DC System” and represented by that box. Incidentally, when that picture was taken, Integrel was generating power which is why the number is negative (and large).

Having worked in the background with BoatRx on this project (providing the Integrel), we at OPE can say that they are awesome installers!

Whether Integrel or other high-power alternator/regulator DC charging system, generator removal/replacement is becoming a popular option, and a growing percentage of our distribution business.

Note that these systems are generally not DIY installations. We highly recommend only having such systems done by an experienced installer like BoatRx!

..high tech over expensive systems that will require a 5 dwarf team of electrical engineers on board at all times to maybe keep it working.

Inspiring. Looking for smallest cost installation to be used for a smaller 24-30 ft sailboat.

I’d be very interested to know how BoatRX have overcome (assuming they’re aware?) the one major, and potentially catastrophic; issue with using Victron MPPT’s as DC-DC chargers?

Under certain circumstances, a Victron MPPT will deliberately short the PV input terminals to protect the battery bank.

This is completely safe if a solar panel is connected to the input, but not so with anything else.

This behaviour is documented here under Err 38 and 39:

https://www.victronenergy.com/live/mppt-error-codes

Can you please check with BoatRX and come back to me?

I reached out to Victron to understand this issue before I published this article. As you mentioned, in certain circumstances the MPPT can short its output terminals. Here’s what I learned:

If the output side stops accepting current rapidly (like a BMS disconnect event), the MPPT has to do something to stop the inbound energy flow. To do that, it will short the input terminals. If solar panels are connected to the input, that would just drop panel voltage to 0 and all would be fine. But, if the inbound source is a battery or other high current source, that won’t work. So, there’s an internal fuse in the MPPT that will trip in order to avoid bigger issues. Once that fuse opens, the unit is done, as it’s not economical to replace the fuse.

I asked about potentially providing overcurrent protection external to the unit so that when the terminals are shorted that overcurrent opens first. They thought that could work but the magic is in the timing of which overcurrent protection goes first. In my conversations, Victron didn’t know the size or blow speed of the fuse used on the boards so it might take some disassembly or experimentation to figure it out. It’s also not likely to be an issue unless there’s a shutdown event during charging.

Further, during my conversation I learned that Victron has plans to expand the DC-DC lineup with more 48-volt options (among others) but that the supply chain issues have consumed their product engineering resources in refactoring existing products for available components.

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Better Sailing

Air Conditioning on Boats: Tips and Things to Consider

One of the great advantages of sailing is sensing in-depth some of the elements of nature, which are wind, and water. From that point of view, climate control is somehow opposite to sailor’s art. However, we humans are looking for practical ways to provide ourselves some comfort, especially when traveling aboard a sailboat. So, if you’re a beginner (or even if you’re not), it is somehow difficult to make the transition from the landlubber life to tropical climates. Therefore, the idea of air-conditioning, despite its huge power demands can be appealing. So, let’s see what it is like to have air conditioning on your sailboat, as well as some of the best sailboat air conditioners.

General Information on Air Conditioning

Nowadays air-conditioners are manufactured way lighter and power-efficient than they were ten years ago. However, buying an AC Unit for your sailboat might be an expensive purchase, and sometimes regarded as high-end items on most sailboats. The cost of a professional installation on a 35′ feet sailboat can be as much as putting in new sails. Whenever you are investing that much money on a piece of gear, one question comes to your mind. How long will it last? However, they are important in terms of ensuring an enjoyable sailing experience. With a dependable air conditioner, your boat will be cool, comfy, and air will circulate in it, which is essential in order to prevent mold.

In general, when you’re sailing during the summer season then this means that you’ll have to deal with different kinds of temperatures. For example, in the north, it might have 95 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity that’s close to 90%. Everything is possible when you sail in extreme climates. Moreover, some days might get really cold at night or during winter, thus you have many reasons to have a solid sailboat air conditioner installed on your boat. Last but not least, keep in mind that portable air-conditioning units cost less than fixed units.

Things to Consider when Buying a Marine Air Conditioner

• Avoid models with a single-hose: They draw cooling air only from the inside, thus they exhaust hot air out through a duct. The air within the boat is usually warmer and more humid than the outside air. Therefore, this can reduce cooling efficiency by as much as 50 percent.
• Cooling Distribution: The distribution of the air within the cabin can be aided by fans, but it will always be unbalanced. However, with air being installed, vents can take the air wherever you want it. It is important that the area of the supply vent inlets is distributed within a recommended range. If a vent is too small then there will be no efficiency. But, if the inlet area is too big, the flow of the cooler air is going to minimize.
• Size of AC Units: Nowadays manufacturers design modern Air Conditioners with the aim of providing easier installation, set up and lightweight products. The right AC Unit means the one that can efficiently cool or warm the entire boat without struggling. Keep in mind that the larger your sailboat, the more powerful the air conditioner system will need. You might also need some space for an engine room if you choose a split air conditioning unit.
• Noise: A permanently installed air conditioner runs on seawater instead of air cooling, thus reducing the noisy cooling air fan required of all portable units. Most of the AC Units are noisy, so before buying or installing a new AC, always think about this feature.
• Maintenance: The portable AC units only require an annual air filter cleaning. However, a permanent, central air conditioner requires raw water strainer cleaning, every 8 to 100 hours, depending on the amount of seagrass in the water. These units also need an external strainer that has to be checked for blockages, especially in high fouling areas.
• Power Requirement: Now, let’s see an example. The AC portable Unit Pompanette 6,000 BTU draws 17 amps to start and 6.9 amps running. The Dometic Turbo 10,000 BTU draws 14.5 amps in order to start and 6.7 amps running. Obviously, the Dometic unit is the most efficient, which means lower power bills, but also reduced complexity when installing. Generally speaking, your sailboat must have powerful battery banks and inverter, as well as an efficient source of energy like a boat generator or a solar panel.
• Your Plans and Budget: Weather conditions generally affect the way that your AC unit is working. In case you are sailing in hot climates then the unit will work a lot harder. So, the sailing ground you’re traveling to and its weather condition will determine the appropriate British Thermal Unit that you need. As mentioned before, sailboat air conditioners can be costly, so calculate how much you can afford, according to your budget.

Best Marine Sailboat Air Conditioners

• MarinAire 16000 BTU : Constructed with lightweight materials it’s undoubtedly a top-quality sailboat AC Unit, designed with built-in pressure gauges. Moreover, it has a D-Smart control system, with a 360-degrees blower outlet, start-up current, and low energy consumption. All these features make it the almost perfect choice for anyone. Buy from Amazon .
• Dometic Turbo DTU 10 10,000 BTU : This unit is quiet and efficient. Moreover, its very low power draw is a big plus and allows to stay at marinas with modest power supplies. However, its installation might be complicated but you can either do it on your own, either hire a professional. Options on Amazon .
• WeBasto AC Retrofit Unit : This AC consumes approximately an average of about 8.5 amps at 115 volts, and it is quite affordable with an easy setup and installation. Its compressor is very quiet and doesn’t generate any irritating noise. Link to Amazon .
• Pompanette 6000 : This unit has an integral insulated compressor shield and it is designed with a uni-body construction. Furthermore, it has a small size and it’s quite affordable. It can never rust and it doesn’t accumulate condensed water or bacteria.
• MarinAIre 11000 BTU : This eco-friendly AC Unit is definitely a reliable solution. It does everything automatically and comes with excellent low and high-pressure gauges. This feature ensures that it operates efficiently in all climates.

Air Conditioning on a Sailboat – Final Thoughts

I know that nothing is more comfortable than having a reliable air-conditioner on your sailboat, in order to adjust yourself to climate’s alterations. Therefore, this investment, though sometimes can be costly, can satisfy your needs for a long-term period, while traveling overseas. Moreover, a sailboat air conditioner will adjust the humidity level, temperature, and airflow in your sailboat. Nowadays, there are a lot of sailboat air conditioners on the market. To sum up, air-conditioning is necessary for some people while for others is just a commodity. Keep in mind to check the market, calculate your budget, your sailing plans, and all the above-mentioned details of your preferred AC Unit, before making your purchase.

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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5 Best Marine AC Units (For A Cool Boating Experience)

Josh Mitchell

Expert Reviewed By

Last Updated On

March 6, 2024

“If you make a purchase using our provided links, we may receive a commission. Learn more  here.

A hot day on the water doesn't have to mean sweating to death. The best marine air conditioners can keep the inside of a boat ice cold even on those 100-degree days.

I know that a marine air conditioner can be an expensive investment that should not be taken lightly.

That's why I made this list of the best marine AC units to help boaters find the best way to stay cool in those hot summer months.

Quick Glance - My Recommendations

Dometic Brisk II ‎B57915.XX1C0

Editor's choice.

Webasto AC Retrofit Kit

Best Replacement Marine AC

Dometic Emerald Titanium DEUX

Best High-End

5 best marine air conditioners for a cool day of boating, 1. dometic brisk ii ‎b57915.xx1c0.

Best Rooftop AC

Overall Score

Energy Efficiency

Cooling Ability

Value for Money

Who is the Dometic Brisk II best for?

This Dometic marine air conditioner is best for people who don’t have room for a conventional marine air conditioner.

• No condensate line or water pump required
• Completely self-contained
• Easy to install if you already have a hole
• The unit is very noisy
• Installation may require extra bracing on the roof

The Dometic Brisk II resembles an AC unit on a camper or RV, but this one goes on the roof of your boat.

It is a perfect replacement for an existing roof-mounted air conditioner unit, and I really like how easy it is to add to a boat without air conditioning.

Not all boats can support a roof-mounted marine air conditioner. However, this air conditioner does not take up space inside , and it is easily accessible to work on.

The condensing and evaporator unit is housed entirely on the roof and is shielded from the elements with a cover.

One thing that some people do not like is that the air conditioner is visible from the outside.

However, I don’t mind it on some boats because the white cover keeps the unit from sticking out like a sore thumb.

The noise level is also a common complaint, but it’s about as loud as a window air conditioner.

All that you will see inside the boat is the ceiling-mounted vent and the air conditioner controls.

The indoor trim is called a distribution box and provides a way to direct airflow (I often compare it to the air vents in a car).

The air conditioner’s manual contro ls are also mounted on the distribution box.

The Dometic Brisk II requires a 14" X 14" hole in the roof with structural supports.

The boat's roof must be able to support about 75 lbs, and there must be space to run electrical wires.

If you are comfortable making a couple of cuts in the boat, then this can be a DIY job.

I'm pretty daring, but this is one of those projects that could turn into a major undertaking.

Also, remember that lugging this thing onto the roof alone may be difficult, so be sure to guilt a friend into helping.

Alternatively, the Brisk II can connect to ductwork. This would require your boat to have air ducts running up to the roof, as well as a thermostat mounted on a wall.

Although I like the cleaner look of a ducted system, few boats have ductwork running to the ceiling.

If you don’t have ducts already running to the ceiling, then I would stick to a self-contained marine air conditioner, like the Webasto AC Retrofit Kit below.

2. Webasto AC Retrofit Kit

Who is the Webasto Retrofit Kit best for?

The Webasto Retrofit Kit is the best marine air conditioner for people who need to replace their existing marine air conditioning system.

• Easy to install yourself
• Compact enough to fit anywhere
• Includes digital thermostat
• Unit is painted to prevent rust and corrosion
• Noisier than comparable self-contained units
• Thermostat requires a special cable

I found the Webasto AC Retrofit Kit to be the perfect replacement for an aging marine air conditioner that is limping along on its last leg.

I really like this self-contained unit, but unlike the Dometic Brisk II , it  does not require cutting a hole in the ceiling.

The compact size makes it easy to install, no matter the current unit's size.

The Webasto AC Retrofit Kit is a standard, self-contained marine system, so it relies on seawater for cooling.

It also requires a condensate drain hose , which can connect to the boat's bilge. I prefer to connect to the waste tank so the bilge isn't constantly filling up with condensate.

Besides AC, the Webast Retrofit AC Kit also has heat, which is great for boating in the winter months or for people traveling up north.

Setting the AC and heat is easy with the included digital thermostat that can be mounted on a wall with the included cable.

If you don't want to get up to change the temperature, Webasto has you covered with an optional remote control.

If your boat doesn't have AC, then the Webasto AC Retrofit Kit is a good option.

I recommend looking for an easy place to install it, like under a bench or bed. Try to find a place close to existing plumbing and an electrical box.

All that's required for installation is a 5" piece of ductwork, ¾" piping for the seawater inlet/outlet, 12-gauge stranded wire, and some determination.

It also needs a submersible pump to suck water from the sea.

3. Dometic Emerald Titanium DEUX

Premium Model

Who is the Dometic Emerald Titanium DEUX best for?

The Dometic Emerald Titanium DEUX is the best marine air conditioner for large boats with over 300 square feet.

• Several different BTU options available
• Customize your AC with different air handlers
• Condenser noise stays contained to the engine room
•  Also serves as a heat pump
• Very complicated to install
• Requires separate air handlers

When I look at a new air conditioner, I expect it to last for a long time. The Dometic Emerald Titanium DEUX has the best marine air conditioner design on the market!

The white painted body helps to protect it from rust and corrosion. There are also brackets that serve as a frame to protect the compressor if it gets jostled around.

The Dometic Emerald Titanium DEUX  is not  a   standalone unit. Unlike the Webasto AC Retrofit Kit , this air conditioner only consists of a compressor.

The upside is that you can mount this unit in an exterior compressor compartment and run pipes to the evaporator.

I like modular systems, especially for larger boats, since they allow for more customizability.

The Dometic Emerald Titanium DEUX is the perfect choice for large boats because it comes in a range of cooling capacities.

I mentioned that this is a well-built system, and that is evident when trying to pick up this 150 lb brick.

Be sure to keep the weight in mind because you will need help to get it aboard.

Although I really like the quality of the Dometic Emerald Titanium DEUX , I can't overlook the installation challenges.

Copper lines must be run to a condensing unit, and electrical wiring must be connected to both the condenser and the evaporator.

It also needs a thermostat to control the air conditioner.

4. Ivation IVACA6500

Dehumidifier AC Combo

Who is the Ivation IVACA6500 best for?

The Ivation IVACA6500 is best for people who want to quickly and easily add a marine air conditioning system to their boat.

• Easily add air conditioning in less than an hour
• One of the cheapest marine air conditioning systems
• Has a digital thermostat built-in
• Dehumidifying mode removes moisture
• Requires an opening window
• No option for heating

The first time I saw the IVACA6500, I mistook it for a home window air conditioner.

It works just like a window air conditioner, with the condenser sitting outside and the evaporator inside.

The only difference is that the IVACA6500 actually has two separate parts connected by a rubber tube.

This makes it ideal for marine applications, thanks to the flexible mounting system .

The most important thing that may be a problem is the need for a window that opens to pass the connections through.

I found installation to be super simple, though, thanks to the included adjustable brackets.

These brackets allow for placement adjustment by clamping the unit to the window.

However, I recommend placing the unit below the window and modifying the brackets to mount it in a more discrete location.

After you get the unit mounted, just plug it into a 120V outlet and fire it up . The digital thermostat on the front can set the air conditioning to a desired temperature.

However, I find that these thermostats are not nearly as accurate as wall-mounted ones used in traditional AC systems, like Dometic and Webasto .

As a light sleeper, I highly recommend this unit for a bedroom thanks to its quiet operation at 55 dB.

I suggest setting the timer to turn the air on an hour or two before bed so it is nice and cool, then take advantage of the sleep mode to quiet the fan noise.

During the day, I find it much better to use the dehumidifier mode.

I like the IVACA6500's dehumidifier mode since it is perfect for keeping the boat nice and dry on those temperate days.

Some people do complain about the look of the outdoor condensing unit, but at least it doesn’t obstruct the window.

I personally don’t think it looks bad, and it is easy to remove the unit in the cooler months.

At only 6,500 BTUs, the Ivation IVACA6500 will cool a room or a small boat . One good thing about the smaller units is that it doesn't need a ton of electricity to keep it going.

With that in mind, you are still stuck running on shore power with this air conditioner.

5. MarinAire Self-Contained Marine AC

Best Small Compact AC

Who is the MarinAire Self-Contained Marine AC best for?

The energy-efficient MarinAire Self-Contained Marine AC is best for boats with little room for a marine AC unit.

• Self-contained unit with plastic housing
• Energy efficient cooling power
• Pressure gauges to check refrigerant
• Insulated blower keeps noise down
• Humidistat controls humidity levels
• Requires a separate water pump sold separately
• Special wiring must be run to the thermostat

The MarinAire is my favorite self-contained air conditioning unit, but it is unique.

The compressor and coils are protected by a molded plastic case, which definitely adds some protection.

The case also helps to keep the noise level down when the air conditioner is running.

The MarinAire is also the most compact marine ACs I've come across, and it is even smaller than the Webasto AC Retrofit Kit .

It will fit in tight compartments or under benches where other self-contained systems can't.

I also like the hook on top, which is a lifesaver when lowering the air conditioner into the cabin. It really turns the installation into a one-man job.

The standout features are the built-in pressure gauges to quickly check the high and low pressures without special tools.

I’ve looked at a lot of marine air conditioners with varying features, but the Marinaire has some of the best features included, such as a wireless remote.

It also comes with a conventional thermostat for the wall.

The Marinaire is the only marine AC unit I have seen with wireless connectivity.

You can control the marine AC unit from anywhere with the included WiFi thermostat (assuming you have internet access).

Installation is also a breeze since this is a self-contained unit.

The main components not included are some pipes for the stainless steel drain pan and water cooling, as well as a pump.

From there, all it takes is running the pipes and wire for the thermostat and humidity sensor wiring to the cabin.

Finally, connect the duct (size varies by BTU) and plug in the marine AC unit to start cooling off.

Comparing Marine Air Conditioners

Factors to consider when choosing a boat ac, what size cooling does your boat need.

The exact size cooling capacity your boat needs requires a complex calculation.

My general rule of thumb is that one BTU (British thermal units) cools about 5 square feet and heats 10 square feet.

This is based on moderate climate control and cooling an area below deck.

• Large Boats The Dometic Emerald Titanium Deux  is perfect for large boats over 500 square feet . I recommend this for a very large yacht with a separate engine compartment and large living spaces. Sometimes, larger boats use two units.
• Medium Sized Boats Smaller boats from 200-500 square feet have a few options, including the Webasto AC Retrofit Kit  and the Marinaire AC system. These self-contained systems are perfect for small to mid-size boats with room to run a short piece of ductwork.
• Small Boats Finally, marine AC units like the Dometic Brisk II  and Ivation IVACA 6500  are perfect for small boats in the 100-200  square foot range.

I always consider the size of an existing marine AC unit and also perform a new calculator.  

There are several formulas that get very scientific, but a simple online capacity calculator is my go-to.[ 1 ]

TL;DR: You much choose an AC system based on the covered area of your boat. The larger the boat, the more powerful systems with high BTU capacity is required.

What Is Your Budget?

The most budget-friendly marine air conditioners cost less than $1,00 0, while ducted systems can easily cost a few thousand.

I know most people have a budget in mind with these larger projects. In that case, the budget will dictate what type of system you can get.

A traditional self-contained marine AC system like the Marinaire or Webasto I mentioned above typically costs about $2,500.

Split systems like the Dometic Emerald Titanium Deux cost significantly more.

The exact price varies by dealer as Dometic does not advertise the cost for its high-end split systems.

AC Lab Note:

Don't forget to consider installation, which will likely cost about the same as the unit, depending on the required work. Similarly, split systems cost significantly more to install than self-contained marine air conditioners.

Continuing on with self contained systems, the Dometic Brisk II is a fairly cheap option as it starts around $1200.

However, the cost to install may be higher than other self-contained systems like the Marinaire  and Webasto  .

Retrofitting a smaller unit like the Ivation will be the most affordable route. I commonly see these systems for around $700.

Most marine AC units I've found run on a generator, which will add a significant cost if you don't already own one.

TL;DR: You budget would dictate the type of AC you choose. Some AC systems like the split or self-contained marine AC systems are more expensive than roof-mounted ACs.

How Long Is The Warranty?

Marine air conditioner warranties vary significantly between brands, but most come with at least a one-year parts warranty.

Higher-end models like Dometic's Emerald Titanium come with a parts and labor warranty.

In comparison, companies like Webasto  and Ivation  have a parts-only warranty.

One and two year parts warranties are pretty standard in the marine air conditioner industry.

I find that Dometic offers the best marine air conditioner warranty at two years on many of its higher-end products. It is also one of the most inclusive warranties.

TL;DR: One and two years parts warranty is fairly standard but try to look for a unit that offers a longer warranty period.

How Easy Is It To Install?

Some marine air conditioning systems are easy to install, while others vary in complexity .

More importantly, everyone has a different level of abilities.

People planning a DIY install should first determine if there is room in the boat to mount a self-contained unit. Then, plan where to run the pipes and electrical.

Alternatively, consider a roof-mounted unit if there isn't space for a conventional marine AC unit.

The roof-mounted unit requires a single hole but also requires framing out the roof around it.

Most people don't want to spend days hacking away at their beloved boat , so I would go with the Ivation IVACA6500 , or even a portable boat air conditioner.

The most difficult-to-install marine AC units are split systems, where the condensing unit goes in the engine room.

These are more expensive units and difficult to install since pipes must be run throughout the boat.

These may also require extra refrigerant to be added, and the lines must be vacuumed.

I would only recommend this system for really large boats or if it is already undergoing extensive maintenance.

TL;DR: Most ACs systems are easy to install, some like the roof-mounted ACs would require cutting holes. Marine ACs are also very heavy so they will definitely require help in installation.

How Easy Is It To Maintain?

Maintaining marine AC units is similar to keeping up with a home AC system .[ 2 ]

The most important thing to do is keep the return air filters clean. I also recommend checking the coils annually to ensure they are not dirty.

A chilled water system such as the Webasto , Marinaire , and Dometic Emerald Titanium  I looked at do require a little extra attention, such as ensuring the water does not freeze in cold months.

I am a fan of low maintenance , and you can’t get much simpler than the Ivation IVACA 6500 and the Dometic Brisk II .

Both marine AC units are easy to access , so filter cleaning requires little effort.

The good thing about most marine AC units is that they are serviceable.

Most marine AC systems mentioned above have service ports so an AC tech can easily perform a check-up and get the system running like new again.

TL;DR: Look for marine ACs that offer ease-of-maintenance features such as service ports, easy to access filters etc. 

How We Review & Rank Our Product List

At Air Conditioner Lab, our team follows a similar process when evaluating all products reviews before formulating our final lists for readers.

We begin by gathering data sources directly from brands, e-commerce platforms, online retailers and press releases.

These are then added to a master file we use to compare features specifications from all air conditioner models. You can access this Air Conditioner Sheet Here .

Next, we narrow down all the products on the market by evaluating user reviews, ratings and feedback from a wide variety of online and in-person sources.

Our team then discusses and co-ordinates our first hand experiences using these products, as well as gather independent opinions and feedback through Youtube and customer reviews.

4 Types Of Marine ACs Found On Boats

1. self-contained units.

Self contained marine air conditioners like the Webasto and Marinaire place the condenser and blower in a single package.

Most marine air conditioners rely on seawater to cool the returning refrigerant. These units are very efficient, quiet, and compact, which is perfect for a boat.

Adding this type of marine air conditioner is also very easy, even if your boat never had air conditioning.

All that they require is a hose for the seawater, electrical, and a hole for the vent.

Using a vent means self-contained units are great for directing airflow to a specific part of the boat.

It is also worth noting that self-contained units can also refer to portable, roof-mounted, or hatch-mounted systems where the condenser and evaporator are together in one assembly.

2. Hatch-mounted Units

A boat hatch-mounted marine air conditioner is designed to fit into a boat’s existing hole in the roof.

These units are very easy to install, but they come with a few challenges.

Hatch mounted air conditioners are essentially a window AC unit with an angled duct that attaches to the boat's hatch.

I often see people confuse roof-mounted air conditioners like the Dometic Brisk II with hatch-mounted marine AC units. It may be possible to install a roof-mounted AC unit into a hatch, but most hatches are too large.

3. Chilled Water Units

Chilled water units are some of the most popular marine AC systems, and chilled water may be used on both split and self-contained systems.

A pump takes seawater and pushes through copper piping on the chiller, known as a heat exchanger.

Instead of using large condensing coils like your home's AC system, the seawater cools the coils, so there is no need for a fan.

Besides heat transfer, chilled water units still operate like most other air conditioners.

For instance, they have a compressor, evaporator coil, and a reversing valve (on heat pump models).

To boil this down, chilled water units are perfect for boats because there is a constant supply of water to keep the system cool.

This also removes the need to place a condensing unit outside since the seawater literally removes heat from the boat.

4. Split-air Units

A split-air unit is simply an air conditioning system where the condenser and evaporator are separate.

In most applications, the condenser coils and compressor are outside, while the evaporator coils and air handler are inside.

This is the exact opposite of a self-contained marine air conditioner. However, it can use either a chilled water system or an air-cooled condenser.

I don’t want to make this too complicated, but the Ivation we covered is technically a split system since the condenser and evaporator are separate.

However, a more conventional example is the Dometic Emerald Titanium DEUX .

Split systems are ideal for larger vessels with an engine room or boats with multiple evaporator units.

I recommend against these complex split systems for many boaters because they are very complicated, and repair can be costly.

TL;DR: There are many different types of marine AC systems. Some systems are suitable for smaller covered area such as roof-mounted ACs, others systems like split air or self contained units are essential for larger covered area.

How Many Watts Does A Marine Air Conditioner Use?

The exact number of watts a marine air conditioner uses varies by model and BTUs. For example, a 6,000 BTU self-contained unit uses about 500-550 watts.

How Long Do Marine Air Conditioners Last?

A marine air conditioner’s lifespan hinges largely on how well it is taken care of. The average life is about ten years, but this may vary depending on how much use it gets.

How Do You Size A Marine Air Conditioner?

You size a marine air conditioning unit based on the cubic footage of the boat, as well as sun exposure and climate. A quicker and easier way to get in the ballpark is by multiplying 5 BTU times the square feet of the boat.

How Do You Maintain A Marine Air Conditioner?

The most important part of maintaining a marine air conditioning unit is to clean out the return air filter and keep the condensate pan clear. Be sure that water does not freeze in the pump or pipes during the winter.

What Is The Difference Between Refrigeration And Air Conditioning On A Ship?

Refrigeration and air conditioning are often used interchangeably when discussing cooling systems on a ship.

However, the word refrigeration is mainly used when talking about cooling systems like freezers and other cold storage. In contrast, air conditioning commonly refers to regulating temperatures in a living space.

So, Which Will You Buy?

The best marine air conditioner will depend on your boat’s size and needs. I like all of the marine AC units that we covered, but each one really fits a specific need.

However, I find the MarinAire Self-Contained system to be the best marine air conditioner because of its casing and integrated gauges.

But best of all, it is easy to install.

I also like the units built by major brands like Dometic marine air conditioners because they are well-built for a harsh marine environment and offer an excellent warranty.

My #1 Recommendation

References: 

• https://www.marinaire.com/category-s/28.htm
• https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/maintaining-your-air-conditioner

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Sailboat Air Conditioning

How to add air conditioning to your sailboat.

At BoatAC.net, we've installed or replaced air conditioning on many sailboats. Sailboats have some unique characteristics to consider as you consider different systems. Here are some questions and considerations to help you decide on the best options for your sailing vessel.

12v air conditioner or 115/230 volt marine a c?

With the growing availability and improved price/performance of lithium marine batteries, it's become viable to run your boat's ac and/or heating directly from batteries. Battery-powered marine a c units are now about 20% of our installations. We generally recommend Mabru for their ac 12v units.

We've installed 12v systems from 6000btu air conditioners to 17000 btu air conditioners. In fact, some of our customers have multiple 12v marine ac systems on their sailboats. They're able to cool multiple cabins with independent thermostats with their 12 volt ac.

Some customers have found an excellent additional use case for their 12 volt air conditioner - to blow cool air into the cockpit on hot days and to keep their head and cabins comfortable while sailing. When running on batteries, these units are quiet enough to use under sail without spoiling the experience.

If your boat will always be at a marina or if you already have the onboard electric generation system with enough capacity to run air conditioning, these installations are usually about half the cost. We recommend both MarinAire and Mabru for their 115v and 230v options. Some customers prefer Webasto air conditioner units or other brands for air con 12v or 115v.

Do you need heating and cooling or just ac?

Heat pumps are simply air conditioners running in reverse cycle. Many of the self contained a c units that we install feature both heat pump and air conditioning. If you are considering adding new electric-powered marine heater to your boat, we highly recommend considering a heat pump instead of resistance heating .

Marine heat pumps are more efficient and come with air conditioning to keep your boat cool. Cool boats make sleeping and enjoying a warm summer night much easier.

All of the larger Marinaire and Mabru units we install function as self contained heat pumps as well as air conditioners. They are generally much quieter, filter the air they move and don't come with the risks or smells of marine propane heaters or marine diesel heaters.

How many separate areas of you want to have air conditioned?

Many of our customers prefer having separate ac units and controls in different areas of their sailboat. For example, Eric has 3 units installed on his own Jeanneau - one in each sleeping area and one in the main cabin.

Generally, catamarans and trimarans need to have separate air conditioner marine systems in each hull to keep passengers comfortable.

While we don't sell or install them, some customers prefer to use hatch air conditioners for boats that are smaller or don't require quieter operation. Most hatch AC units don't have enough power to sufficiently cool larger boats or cabins; they're best suited for smaller vessels or individual areas within the boat.

Additionally, because hatch units are air cooled instead of being water cooled, they generate heat in the air around the hatches which can be unpleasant to anyone on deck while the units are running.

Some sailboat owners use portable boat a c units when they only need HVAC while at the marina. These units aren't particularly powerful or efficient, but they can be great for occasional use.

Do sailboats have air conditioning?

Surprisingly, many sailboats don't come from the factory with air conditioning installed. However, BoatAC.net can help add self contained ac to your sailboat. For example, we can install an 17,000 btu marine ac unit in your cabin and a 6000 btu ac unit in your v-berth and use the same circulation pump for both. Depending on your needs, we can design a system with the right cooling capacities for your vessel.

What if the Dometic Marine AC that came with my sailboat isn't working?

If your boat came with a Dometic marine air conditioning system that has ceased functioning, you may be in need of a replacement. When it comes to choosing the right replacement unit, selecting reliable brands is paramount.

That's why we recommend Marinaire Marine AC Units or Mabru Marine AC Units as suitable replacements for outdated Dometic marine AC systems. Both brands offer top-of-the-line products engineered for optimal performance and energy efficiency.

What about Sailboat keel air conditioning?

When it comes to cooling your sailboat, there are a few different options available. While Sailboat Keel air conditioning is popular due to its closed system, it can be very expensive to install if you don't already have it in place. These systems take advantage of the heat exchanger marine benefits of cooler water at the bottom of a keel.

This is why we recommend considering self-contained marine AC units with reverse cycle heat pumps , especially if you also want heating capabilities for cooler nights on the water. These self-contained units offer a more affordable and flexible solution that can easily be added to your vessel without requiring extensive installation procedures or onboard modifications.

With high-quality marine heat exchangers and reliable reverse cycle heat pump technology, these units provide efficient cooling and heating while keeping operational costs low compared to other systems on the market today.

RetireFearless

Best Sailboat Air Conditioners

There are many items that can make a trip out at sea enjoyable. Having one of the best sailboat air conditioners is likely to change your mind.

October 17, 2023

This article may contain affiliate links where we earn a commission from qualifying purchases.

Many sailors often overlook a sailboat air conditioner since they are more concerned with the boat on water rather than comfort. So what are some of the best marine sailboat air conditioners?

The best sailboat air conditioners are from Webasto, Dometic, and MarinAire. These are some of the best rated brands that will meet your expectations of comfort on board. Other brands like Campelify and Black+Decker have models that can compete with the best.

Not all sailboat work conditioners are made equal, as done will have their pros and cons. Depending on the unit you choose can make or break your luxury.

According to experienced sailors, the weather out at sea is going to be volatile depending on the season. Having a sailboat air conditioner can help make life enjoyable on plenty of occasions.

Table of Contents

‍ 7 Best Sailboat Air Conditioners

For a sailboat air conditioner to be considered one of the best, it has to tackle changes in temperature without consuming too much power from your boat. Many of these options will provide comfort without hoarding all of your boat’s energy.

Webasto 5011396A

Over the last five years, the Webasto brand has put out some of the best sailboat air conditioners out there. This model in particular is essentially noise free, well designed, and fairly easy to install.

In addition, the price point might be worth a look if you are wanting to save money compared to some other brands. If you are wanting a comfortable night of sleep without a ton of noise, this might be the sailboat air conditioner for you.

• Fairly quiet
• Easy to follow instructions to build
• Effective at cooling
• Around $1,300
• Quality materials
• Build might not fit on certain boats

DOMETIC 207500316 EnviroComfort

If you believe that you will have issues fitting a sailboat air conditioner onto your boat, this one offers some flexibility. Over the last decade, the Dometic EnviroComfort has been reliable across many sailboats.

This air conditioner is equipped with R-140A refrigerant, so it offers one of the more environmentally friendly emissions. With digital controls, cleanable filter, and a quality output of air, this one is hard to beat.

• Quality performance
• Built to last
• Simple to install
• Around $1,850
• Energy efficient
• Fairly noisy
• Blower does not rotate 360 degrees
• Components might not match when trying to fit

MarinAire MSBA16K2

If you want a sailboat air conditioner that has all the bells and whistles, then look no further than what MarinAire provides . This self contained marine air conditioner offers one of the best amount of features compared to others on the market.

For boats that are mid-sized and have a larger cabin to cool, this one does a great job at cooling. It comes equipped with pressure gauges so that it remains working optimally instead of working harder to get the job done.

Setting it up is a breeze and it comes with the ability to rotate the blower 360 degrees. As with most of the air conditioners on the list, this one also has R-140A refrigerant to meet environmentally friendly needs.

• Easy to install
• Great cooling for small to medium sized rooms
• Built in pressure gauges for high performance
• Blower rotates 360 degrees
• Some users have issues with synching remote
• Power cord is shorter compared to other units
• A little over $2,000

Webasto FCF0012000GS

If you are looking for a sailboat air conditioner that can do a little bit of everything, then this Webasto model is the right one for you. For the money, you can get some of the best cooling efficiency compared to other brands out there.

Some sailors have used two of these models on larger yachts to help keep the entire living space as comfortable as possible. Since this is also pretty quiet, it makes for one of the better ones at night.

It also has a reverse heat feature, but you will likely not use it as much as you would think. Lastly, it offers a two year, full factory warranty which is great for the price you are paying. This arguably might be the best bang for your buck.

• Retrofits in most locations
• Cools small to medium sized rooms
• Very low noise
• Consistent performance
• Blower could be better

MarinAire 14000 BTU/H Self-Contained

While this one is just a slight step below the 16,000 BTU one, you can still get all of the same high quality features. This means you can rely on the great output of cold air, 360 degree blower rotation, and an environmentally friendly unit.

The only main differences here are the price and the output of the unit compared to the 16,000 model. If you have a slightly smaller boat than 33 feet, then this might be the model for you.

• Easy to install and compact size
• Quality cooling for small to medium sized rooms
• Decently quiet
• Slightly cheaper than the 16,000 BTU model

Dometic Brisk II

Thinking outside the box for just a minute and you can give the Dometic Brisk II a shot. While this unit typically serves the purpose of RV owners, some sailors have implemented this model onto their sailboats.

When comparing sailing to full time RV travelers that face various conditions, you can see how this air conditioner is a quality model. It does not take up much space and can be installed on the roof of your boat if you have one.

Sailors will love how easy it is to install and how efficient it runs. You might need to be a little more hands on and install yourself, assuming you can make space on the top of your boat.

• Great cooling
• Versatile among various conditions
• Around $1,000
• Not designed for marine use, but many sailors have utilized

Black+Decker Portable

Another idea that sailors have utilized over the years is a portable air conditioner, like the one Black+Decker has . This model definitely has its pros and cons, but it gets the job done in a variety of situations.

If something were to happen to your current air conditioning unit, this is an excellent backup if you are stuck in a heat wave. The only issues are that it takes up space and it is quite loud.

It serves its purpose in cooling and as a dehumidifier. You also need to stay on top of things with routine cleaning, but it will prolong life tremendously.

• Can be utilized as a main unit or secondary
• East to put together and set up
• Cools, but is also a dehumidifier
• Very cost effective, at around $400
• Takes up space on ground
• Can be loud for some sailors

How Marine Air Conditioners Operate

To have a better understanding of the functionality of a marine air conditioner unit, you would need to know how refrigerant systems work within an approved marine unit.

Other than simply chilled water being pushed through the unit, there are three main components that work within an air conditioning unit. Those main components that help the air conditioner work are the evaporator compressor, and the condenser.

The process begins with the evaporator drawing in warm air from the room or wherever it is installed. Majority of the time, these evaporators are equipped with refrigerants to help cool the air once it is collected.

Once the air has been collected, it is the compressors job to circulate the air. This also helps maintain the flow of the refrigerant.

Finally, the condenser takes action to cool the airflow and ultimately take it back through the evaporator. Now the fan or other forms of getting air quickly into the room are responsible for distributing the flow.

Variations of Marine Air Conditioners

There are two styles of air conditioners, which are refrigerant based and ones that have an evaporative cooling system. The most common ones sailors use are the ones with refrigerants, but there are slightly different variations and how they operate.

Expansion System

These types of marine air conditioners can be either self-contained or split, which simply means that the three primary components are all housed in one unit or separate. They each have their pros and cons, but they are minimal in comparison.

Installation is much easier with these types of systems. They also happen to be the most cost effective units compared to others in the market.

Assuming that the user has properly ducted the unit, it can cool the entirety of a room or cabin on mid-sized boats with ease. If you have a merger boat, you could look into having two units to offer a peace of mind when it comes to making it a chilled environment.

The only drawbacks that customers typically complain about is the noise, while some enjoy the constant humming at night. This usually leads to consumers paying a little extra for the ones that are quieter.

Chilled Water

The chilled water system air conditioners need refrigerant to help cool the water. Once it is cooled, the chilled water is processed to air handlers to help cool the room.

This system is often considered one of the more versatile ones out there simply because it can be customized to fit a particular boat. Depending on the size of your boat and where you need it, there is usually one to fit your needs and you can make adjustments.

When you attempt to put this air conditioner in place, you just need the right amount of space to build your perfect cooling system. This is why many sailors use this type if they are tight on space or do not want to take up a lot of room. In addition, they also happen to be a very reliable system.

While these are mostly found on larger vessels, the split gas system utilizes a central condensing unit that connects to a handful of air handlers with copper wire. Since these are considered a little heavier duty and more accustomed to larger boats, you can expect to pay a little more.

The good news is that they do not make a lot of noise and do not take up a ton of space. But in order for larger boats to be cooked efficiently, these are essentially the only options.

Biggest Drawbacks and Benefits to a Marine Air Conditioner

Many boaters have gone back and forth on the idea of adding a marine air conditioning system to their boat. It makes sense to add one, especially since every home and most RV’s have one. So why not a boat?

The most obvious reason for installing an air conditioner is to find relief on hot days while fishing or enjoying time on the water. It can make a huge difference cooling off quickly with one versus not having one at all.

In comparison to window units or other types of systems, marine air conditioners are better at cooling or heating the space they are put in. This is because they fit precisely to your dimensions and do not allow heat or cooled air in or out. In addition, they are designed for these conditions, unlike other systems.

Unlike other air conditioning units, marine air conditioners typically have little maintenance if they are installed properly. As long as you take care of the filter and strainer, you can make it last longer.

The first drawback that every sailor will notice is the cost. Some units start around $1,000 for decent ones, while others begin to climb in the thousands. If you only use your boat occasionally, can you justify spending a few thousand dollars for cooler conditions?

Some units require quite a bit of energy to operate. If you purchase one that is not energy efficient, you could be hogging all of the power just to keep your boat cool.

With that being said, you would have to calculate how much power you can use and how much your batteries can handle. So if your boat does not have a lot of power to spare, you would need to set up more or find a unit that does not use much energy.

Another disadvantage of these units is the high amount of BTU’s. Instead of purchasing a small one for a small room, you are limited on your options.

While the units themselves are small in size, they put out quite a bit of power as might be overkill for the room. Furthermore, you might not find the exact one to fit your needs in between a mid-size or larger boat so you would need to buy two.

The best thing a consumer can do is to estimate how much cooling they need for the space they want it to be in. Make adjustments as needed and find what works best.

What to Look for in a Marine Air Conditioner

While some consumers have their buying guide ideal for certain things, it is important not to overlook key factors. These are important aspects when considering a marine air conditioner.

Efficiency of Unit

How efficient the unit is will be one of the most important factors when trying to decide on a unit. Things like cooling capacity and how much power it needs to operate will be key here.

For some units, it might make sense to invest in another battery to help power the unit. Keep in mind that you are spending more money than just the unit itself since you have to buy another battery.

This is why it is important to see the differences between units that have 16,000 BTUs and 8,000. Buying one you do not need will require more money to help power the unit, so this might be an unnecessary cost for you.

Size of Your Boat

When thinking about a marine air conditioner, you also need to consider the amount of space you are trying to cool. You should measure the exact cubic feet you are trying to cool, regardless of structure or other things in the way.

If the unit does not say so, you should contact the manufacturer for the specifications. It should say anyway on how large of a room it works best in, but it never hurts to read how it is designed to function.

You also have to consider if the unit will be stationary or easy to move. This could change where you locate the unit and how it best fits your situation. You should take note of whatever the manufacturer notes and how it applies.

Installation

If you are not handy with tools or thinking outside the box, you want the easiest setup possible when finding the right marine air conditioner. This also means the total cost and effort that it takes to make it happen.

For self-contained units, these are often as simple as plugging in the unit and letting it do its thing. In addition, you might need just a few extra parts to make it work.

For some units, you might have to do some wiring, plumbing, or a combination of the two. Some knowledge of this will be required or you will have to have someone install this for you, which will affect the cost.

Noise Level

Most people either love or hate noise at night when they are trying to sleep. If you want perfect silence, or a unit that does not make much noise, you will need to find one that fits that category.

If you do not mind the noise or enjoy having something like background noise while you sleep, there are units available that create some noticeable noises. For some people, they cannot stand the noise so they choose a unit that is quieter.

In that case, some units are designed so that they reduce vibrations and noise when they work. Certain brands might charge a little more for this added level of comfort, so be prepared to shell out a little more cash.

Maintaining Your Marine Air Conditioner

Most of all marine air conditioners require little maintenance to ensure they run for a long time. They are designed to be in harsh conditions and take some wear and tear, so do not be afraid to get your hands dirty once in a while.

If you really want to prolong the life of your unit, then you need to perform routine touch ups. Before tearing open your unit, check with your manual to see what they recommend first.

For most portable units, this means you typically have to clean vents. With self-contained units, they usually have air filters that you can remove so it is easy to maintain.

When cleaning, make sure that they are free from dust and buildup. So having a delicate brush or vacuum can do the trick.

You also need to check for the condition of the connections and that wires are not becoming worn. Check the plumbing system and make sure there are no leaks.

The drain hose needs to be checked for any clogs and the condenser coils need to be inspected for any build up. If the unit has a pressure gauge, you need to ensure that it is at the normal level it needs to be.

If you are able to take care of your unit properly, you will extend its life beyond what others might say. Making a habit to check these every so often will be key in your success in cooling your boat for years to come.

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Best Marine Air Conditioners

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

May 2, 2023

‍ Key Takeaways

• The best marine air conditioner will vary based on key factors specific to your needs
• Webasto, MarinAire, and Flagship are some of the most recognizable air conditioners
• Most marine air conditioners are affordable and made with quality parts
• Consider choosing a cooling system based on the size of your boat
• Marine air conditioners will likely last up to 20 years with preventative maintenance

‍ A good quality marine air conditioner inside a boat comes in handy on a hot day. But what qualifies one as the best marine air conditioner?

The best marine air conditioner could be argued for brands such as Webasto, MarinAire, Dometic, and Campelify. The best marine air conditioning systems all rely on factors for the size of the boat, how easy it is to install, and the budget in order to be considered the best.

Drawing from personal experience, the best marine air conditioner is one that can hold up well to the marine environment at a good price. You should also aim for air conditioning systems that do not require a lot of assistance installing if you are by yourself or have never installed one.

Table of contents

‍ Nine of the Best Marine Air Conditioner Units

Hot weather in the summer is a great time for sailing but can be uncomfortable and even dangerous. Investing in marine air conditioners can make your sailing experience more enjoyable and prevent heat-related illnesses.

You and your passengers can stay cool and comfortable during hot weather especially in the summer with a functional air conditioner on board. Choosing the best marine air conditioner can be challenging due to the numerous options available.

MarinAire 16,000 BTU

Equipped with pressure gauges and a sound cover this unit boasts a stainless steel drain pan, D- Smart control system, a low startup current, and a compact design suitable for small spaces. While unsuitable for household installation, its standout features include a 60% noise reduction and 360-degree blower outlet to help make it a smart investment.

• It has a D-Smart control system that protects from damage and detects humidity
• Rotating 360-degree blower outlet
• Includes sound cover
• Short power cord
• The electrical box can be intimidating if needing to work on

Webasto 10,000 BTU

Webasto's platinum series features a self-contained marine air conditioner with a 10,000 BTU cooling output with a robust design, is quiet, and has a reverse-cycle heat. This unit is great for new installations or as a system replacement and upgrade and includes a compressor compartment, condenser, evaporator, remote thermostat, and controller, as well as velocity blowers for superior cooling. Its programmable thermostat, low maintenance, fuel efficiency, and easy installation make it one of the top marine air conditioners available.

• Respectable cooling results with low maintenance
• More affordable compared to other models with the same output
• Quieter when operating than other models
• The square fit might be difficult to retrofit on some boats

CAMPELIFY Portable Air Conditioner Unit

This is a top rated portable marine AC unit with mild cooling and is ideal for boats and campers. It uses vapor compression, 134A refrigerant, and a micro-channel condenser for compact design.

It also features a DC rotary compressor for high performance and vibration cushioning. It can be powered by a grid or battery for spot cooling in small spaces or larger rooms.

• Ideal as a small boat air conditioner
• Energy-efficient and can be used with solar power
• Easy to install and is cost-effective
• Not as efficient cooling larger rooms

Dometic Envirocomfort 16,000 BTU

The EnviroComfort Dometic marine AC retrofit kit is a cost-effective, eco-friendly option for mid-sized boats that provides year-round comfort with a climate control feature. User reports claim that it is easy to install, clean, and monitor. This Dometic marine air conditioner has an audible fan that may unintentionally switch modes during extreme temperature fluctuations.

• Best bang for your buck marine AC unit
• Simple to set up and has quality air output
• Energy efficient for mid-sized boats
• Can be pretty noisy compared to other models

Black+Decker Portable AC

The BLACK+DECKER portable air conditioner is a powerful and versatile unit with a 10,000 BTU ASHRAE exhaust system that is ideal for midsize cabins at sea. It has a corded electric power source, remote control, environment-friendly refrigerants, LED control panels, and a 24-hour timer with auto-control sleep mode.

You would likely need to use two units as a primary and secondary backup for larger boats during a more extended sailing trip. Maintenance is easy with reusable air filters, pressure gauges, air intake gaps, and an exhaust hose. You might need a sound cover to help reduce noise.

• Worth a shot as a backup marine air conditioner for larger boats
• Very affordable
• It can be quite noisy compared to other models
• Somewhat bulky and can take up a lot of space if you buy more than one

ASA Electronics ACM135 Advent Air

ASA's AC model for sailboats is ideal for non-ducted setups with 13500 BTU cooling and eco-friendly features. Its robust build minimizes vibrations, has three fan speeds, and connects to a standard 14.25 opening.

It requires professional installation for this self-contained unit that has refrigerant. There are six foam pads that line the watertight vent opening and it has filters that you can wash to help ensure clean air. Saltwater may corrode the stainless steel drain pan faster and there is no warranty without professional installation.

• Three fan speeds for various air output
• It has a removable air filter
• Can add a heat strip for warm air
• No pressure gauge
• Need a professional to install
• Warranty in question

Miami's CTM Marine created a powerful marine air conditioner that is resistant to corrosion and compatible with other major brands. These units are energy-efficient, eco-friendly, and quiet.

Depending on your cooling needs they can range from 6,000 to 72,000 BTUs and are compact. They also come with a two-year warranty and offer excellent as a top marine air conditioner choice in the market.

• Competitive price compared to other marine air conditioner brands in the market
• Quality materials meant to last in marine environments
• It has a warranty for two years
• Control is sold separately
• The blower is not able to turn past 170 degrees
• Have to buy from an authorized dealer

Flagship FM16H

Flagship Marine's FM series air conditioners are praised by boaters for their robustness and potency. Their units are renowned for their durability and are used on US Coast Guard and Navy vessels. These models have also lasted over 20 years for recreational boaters.

They operate quietly, utilizing isolator bushings, have insulated blower chambers, and use LG Rotary Compressors. Their low noise level enables them to be installed even beneath bunks. FM units also feature a smooth startup and low surge as well as dry drain pans that protect against condensation and corrosion.

• Uses relays instead of circuit boards
• Has a warranty on parts for five years and one year on labor
• Constructed in the US
• Does not have a variable speed
• Unit has to be shipped off if problems cannot be fixed over the phone
• Warranty can be strict in certain situations

Mermaid M16

Mermaid boasts a proficient crew and backs their products that include the M16 flagship model. This 16,500 BTU AC cools or heats boats to roughly 1,400 cubic feet with superior US-made parts and is perfect for larger boats.

They craft with high-grade components on sturdy stainless steel bases. It is also customizable with several different air discharge options.

• It has a five year warranty on craftsmanship and materials
• Easy to make repairs and install
• Outstanding customer service where people talk to you that have built them
• Unit has to be shipped to them if any major issues
• Might have some minor noise issues

How to Find the Best Marine Air Conditioners

Choosing the best marine air conditioner can be a challenging task for some boat owners. You would need to understand a variety of factors before jumping into a purchase for one.

It is best to conduct all the research you can when considering a marine air conditioning. Choosing the right boat AC unit requires careful planning and significant investment.

How Big is Your Boat?

Selecting an optimal marine air conditioner requires measuring the cooling area and factoring in the following:

• Adequate insulation
• How much sunlight exposure
• Number of windows
• Size of your boat

Consider choosing a higher capacity unit or several smaller units for larger boats. Confirm that there is adequate space near the engine for the condenser when choosing a split system.

Important Details of the Marine Air Conditioner

Marine air conditioners come in a variety of intended uses and price ranges. However, there is more to look into than just that. Consider the type of unit you choose based on:

• How much space it requires
• Ease of mounting and its location
• Research power requirements in case you need extra power
• Evaluate the impact on vessel performance from added weight
• Understand British Thermal Units (BTUs) and how they apply to output

Other factors will likely affect your decision to buy a certain model. You need to consider the noise level if you are a light sleeper in order to avoid sleep disturbances.

Some marine air conditioners are easy to install and you can do them yourself. However, some require proper installation for efficient refrigeration, return air flow, to allow for maintenance, and ducting or discharge options.

Budget and What it Costs to Maintain Marine AC Units

Only you know exactly what you can and cannot afford. Budgets are crucial in determining which AC units appeal to you.

Maintenance requirements should also not be overlooked. Complex systems might require more money to fix than standard AC units. However, most marine AC systems will have a customer support line to help fix any issues.

Some marine AC units have warranties on parts, labor, materials, or a combination of a few. You will need to verify warranty coverage for your chosen marine AC unit to ensure customer protection for potential defects, parts that need to be replaced, and urgent issue resolutions.

You should make sure to follow exactly what it explains so that you do not void your marine air conditioner warranty. This means properly following a schedule of routine maintenance and other rules for repairs.

Benefits of a Marine AC Unit

Adding an AC unit to your boat offers more than just cooling benefits on a hot day at sea. You will discover many advantageous features that make them more valuable than just that.

You can likely still find sailors that do not use an air conditioner on their boat. But there are plenty of positives to consider adding one to your vessel.

Fights off Mold

Air conditioners aid in preventing the growth of mold by promoting proper air circulation. This keeps boats free from mold and its associated foul odor caused by high heat and humidity.

Mold infestations can be challenging to eliminate once established. Installing an air conditioner will help keep you proactive of a mold situation.

Staying Cool

The main point for AC units is to help cool the boat cabin or intended room. You can escape the heat while sailing with an air conditioner on board your boat. This will also make your boat more appealing to be on as you explore the waters with your companions.

This feature maintains vessel coolness during rain in wet and humid regions. That allows for drying and cooling without opening windows. The air conditioner manages climate control and eliminates the need to expose the interior to rain and air.

Can Potentially Use as a Heater

Some marine air conditioner units double as heaters in winter. That alone could be worth the extra investment since you would not need to find a separate heating system like a diesel stove.

If you are able to use your air conditioner as a heater then it will allow you to save space. Some units are only for cool air so you would need another unit simply for heating and that will take up more space.

Helps Dehumidify Vessel

Marine air conditioners on boats help the cooling process but also dehumidification and heat through reverse cycle. Boats that are dry during storms or when it is insanely humid increase comfort and reduce corrosion for onboard systems.

Varieties of Marine Air Conditioners

Prioritize researching available marine AC systems and their suitability for your vessel's size and needs before making any extravagant purchases. Choosing the wrong unit can result in inefficiency, battery drainage, and inadequate cooling.

Self-Contained Units

These compact systems can be fixed onto a single chassis and make them suitable for cooling vessels between 25 and 40 feet. They can be installed in various locations, such as the living area, near the waterline, under a settee or bunk, and require thru-hull connections for efficient water absorption.

Hatch-mounted Units

Compact vessels like small motorboats and daysailers are ideal for using such systems and are popular due to their portability. However, they can be bulky and require two people to move. It is important to note that portable AC units for boats may not be effective in cooling larger cabins.

Chilled Water Units

These systems consist of a chiller in the engine room that cools freshwater. Units like this are ideal for cooling multiple cabins on super yachts and larger vessels.

The water is then circulated through a pipe loop to air handlers installed in the fore room. Despite their high energy requirements these AC units are an efficient option to consider.

Split-air Units

Boats up to 80 feet benefit from central or split air conditioning with a condensing unit housing the seawater condenser, compressor, and electrical parts. The evaporating unit, consisting of a blower and evaporator coil, is installed in living spaces. Insulated copper tubing connects the two units for refrigerant flow.

How You Can Install a Marine Air Conditioner

Installing an air conditioning unit on your boat can be hassle-free if you follow the manufacturer's instructions. Make sure to have the necessary thru-hulls and tools before installation. You can also watch instructional videos for your specific model or seek professional help for complex installations.

Placement is crucial and should be in a well-ventilated and dry area and away from flammable sources. If you do not have enough space then consider making some modifications. Follow the manufacturer's recommended installation instructions for best results.

If you find the installation process daunting then it is best to seek out professional assistance. In doing so make sure to pay close attention to the procedure and learn how to troubleshoot common issues. Being knowledgeable about your AC unit will help you keep it functioning efficiently.

How to Take Care of Marine Air Conditioners

To help optimize your marine AC unit's performance you can do simple tasks such as consult the manual and clean the rear filter. Further proper cleaning instructions can be found in the manual that might be necessary.

Most marine air conditioner units need the sea strainer cleaned for sufficient water supply. You should also check raw water discharge for proper operation.

Maintenance conducted by a trained professional is recommended every few years to prevent clogging. Extending the unit's lifespan up to 20 years is as simple as properly maintain your marine air conditioner.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Paris aims to keep Olympians cool without air conditioners

Organizers are planning to use a water-cooling system under the athletes village., by barbara surk and samuel petrequin | the associated press • published march 20, 2024 • updated on march 20, 2024 at 5:01 pm.

The Paris Olympics is going underground to find a way to keep athletes cool at the 2024 Games without air conditioners.

Organizers are planning to use a water-cooling system under the Athletes Village — much like the one that has helped the Louvre Museum cope with the sweltering heat that broke records last year — to keep temperatures in check for the Olympians and Paralympians who stay there.

The decision is part of the organizing committee’s goal to cut the carbon footprint of the Paris Games by half and stage the most sustainable Olympics to date by installing a special technology to use natural sources to keep everyone cool even during a potential heat wave.

“I want the Paris Games to be exemplary from an environmental point of view,” said Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo, who has resolved to tackle climate change with an ambitious action plan that aims to drastically reduce greenhouse gas emissions and make the City of Lights carbon neutral by 2050.

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Compared to a conventional project, the carbon impact will be reduced by 45% for the Athletes Village during the construction phase and over the entire Olympic cycle, she said.

For two months between July and September 2024, the Athletes Village north of Paris will host 15,600 athletes and sports officials during the Olympics and 9,000 athletes and their supporting teams during the Paralympics. After the games, the 50-hectare (125-acre) site next to the River Seine in the popular district of Seine-Saint-Denis will become a zero-carbon, eco-friendly residential and commercial neighborhood with 6,000 new inhabitants — the first ones moving in as soon as 2025.

In anticipation of hot weather, organizers have been studying heatwaves block by block in the Athletes Village. They have simulated conditions in the parts of the accommodation most exposed to the sun and have tested the effectiveness of the cooling system with an objective to keep the indoor temperature between 23 and 26 degrees Celsius (73 and 79 degrees Fahrenheit).

The geothermal energy system will ensure that the temperature in the athlete apartments in the Seine-Saint-Denis suburb does not rise above 26 degrees Celsius (79 degrees Fahrenheit) at night, including during a potential a heat wave, said Laurent Michaud, the director of the Olympic and Paralympic Villages.

He said organizers have conducted tests in rooms that are located on the highest floors of the residences and are facing south and exposed to direct sun on two sides. They also considered directions of winds in the region and the water temperature in the Seine. They have worked closely with France’s national weather agency to develop temperature forecasts.

“Despite outdoor temperatures reaching 41 degrees Celsius (106 degrees Fahrenheit), we had temperatures at 28 degrees (82 degrees Fahrenheit) in most of these rooms,” Michaud told The Associated Press, detailing the results of a heatwave simulation. “In other rooms, we clearly had lower temperatures.”

In addition to the underfloor cooling, the insulation built into the buildings will enable residents to keep the cold obtained during the night throughout the day, Michaud said. To keep the coolness inside, the athletes will have to follow some basic rules, he added, including making sure the window blinds are shut during the day.

Laurent Monnet, who is in charge of the green transition at Saint-Denis City Hall, Paris’ northern suburb where the main Olympic Village will be located, said all rooms should be 6 degrees Celsius (11 degrees Fahrenheit) cooler than the outside temperature, without an AC unit. Although some Olympic hopefuls have already expressed concern about the lack of air conditioning, Monnet said athletes should adapt and help contribute to fight against climate change.

“We need athletes to set an example when they use the buildings,” Monnet said. “We can build the most virtuous village we want, it is also the use that will be made of it that will weigh on our carbon footprint.”

Eliud Kipchoge, a two-time Olympic champion and marathon world record holder, endorsed the Paris sustainability plan. The Kenyan is one the sport’s most vocal proponents of environmental justice and has repeatedly sounded the alarm on climate change and the impact of global warming.

“It’s a good thought, because we all need to reduce our carbon,” Kipchoge said in an interview with the AP.

He called on fellow athletes to help combat climate change by reducing their carbon impact during competition, training and their lives in general because “we are all going to go through the same scenario.”

Paris organizers have been in touch with national Olympic committees and said they will have the option of setting up their own AC units in specific cases and on condition that the devices comply with the organizing committee’s technical criteria.

Most national Olympic officials have responded to the plans to keep their athletes cool during the Paris Games with a wait-and-see attitude. Some Olympic officials are not excluding bringing their own air conditioners to France — or paying for one on the spot — depending on the weather at the time.

The Australian Olympic Committee said it will keep an eye on the weather patterns in Paris over the coming year to ensure “the optimal high-performance environment for our athletes, including heat and humidity mitigation that may be required.”

Michaud, the director of the Olympic Village, said organizers want to be kind to the environment, but not endanger the health of athletes. Some athletes, especially in Paralympic events, have difficulty regulating their body’s core temperature and if they reside in rooms in which it proves impossible to keep at 26 degrees Celsius (79 degrees Fahrenheit) at night, national delegations will be able to install a portable AC system.

“It will be on a case-by-case basis, and for health and safety of the athletes,” Michaud said, adding that ventilators vaporizing water droplets could be installed instead of traditional air conditioning units.

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Hidalgo, the Paris mayor, is adamantly against turning next year’s event into the bring-your-own-air-conditioning Olympics — health exceptions aside.

“I can assure you that we will not change course and that there will be no changes to the construction program of the village regarding air conditioning,” Hidalgo said.

Regarding the option of organizers providing national teams with an additional cooling mechanism, she said: “I am not in favor of it. We must be consistent with our objectives.”

AP Sports Writers Jimmy Golen in Boston and Dennis Passa in Brisbane contributed to this report.

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Paris 2024 Olympics: Athletes won't have air conditioning in Olympic Village

Athletes in the Paris Olympics will have to live without traditional air conditioning.

The Olympic Village won't have any air conditioning because organizers are trying to be more green. Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo wants to fight climate change in her city by 2050, and the Olympics are at the heart of her masterplan.

Instead of air conditioning in the Olympic Village, a cooling system will be used. Cold water from deep underground will flow through the floors to cool down the rooms. But, the Olympic Committees from Greece and Australia said they will bring their own cooling systems this summer. The Australians spending $150,000 on their equipment.

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Yann Krysinski, who is in charge of venues and infrastructure at the Paris Games, insists the green technology will be sufficient. "We designed these buildings so that they would be comfortable places to live in in the summer, in 2024 and later on," Krysinski told Reuters . "We don't need air conditioning in these buildings because we oriented the facades so that they wouldn't get too much sun during the summer, and the facades, the insulation is really efficient."

Once the Olympians have left the village, it's planned that 6,000 people will live in the area. I want the Paris Games to be exemplary from an environmental point of view," said Paris Mayor Hidalgo.

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Hidalgo is working alongside Laurent Monnet, who is in charge of the green transition at Saint-Denis City Hall, the northern suburb in Paris where the main village will be located. Monnet has claimed that with the cooling system all rooms will be six degrees cooler than temperatures outside. Although Australia and Greece have already committed to self-fund their own systems, Monnet wants athletes to set a good example.

"We need athletes to set an example when they use the buildings," Monnet said. "We can build the most virtuous village we want, it is also the use that will be made of it that will weigh on our carbon footprint."

Monnet has been backed by running icon Eliud Kipchoge, the men's marathon world record holder. Kipchoge backs the sustainability plan, as the Kenyan continues to be a loud voice from the sporting world when it comes to fighting climate change.

"It’s a good thought, because we all need to reduce our carbon," Kipchoge said in an interview with the AP . In response to some committees ignoring the efforts made by environmentalists, Kipchoge added: "We are all going to go through the same scenario."

* An AI tool was used to add an extra layer to the editing process for this story.