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Lessons of the Sabot Dinghy

• By Steve Hunt
• Updated: April 13, 2021

This past spring, I started ­sailing a Naples Sabot, which is a Southern California kids’ boat, somewhat like an Opti. There have always been adults, as well as kids, in this class, but when the pandemic hit, a lot of other adults jumped into the class, if nothing else, just to get on the water. As a result, San Diego YC’s Monday night fleet ­rapidly grew to around 25 very ­competitive boats.

If you’re unfamiliar with the Sabot, it’s an 8-foot, 95-pound cat-rigged dinghy, with a leeboard hanging off on the starboard side. They’ve been around since 1946. I didn’t sail Sabots or Optis growing up, so this was new territory for me—and light-years from the big J/70, Etchells and Melges 20 programs I’ve been involved in lately.

I bought a boat for my kids and myself, finally had some free time, and I was eager to go out and do well. My first Monday night race was OK, but I was slow for sure. I kept it clean on the starting line—all good starts away from the crowd—but the faster boats were clearly faster than me, so I really had no hope of doing well no matter how good my starts were. The next week I made it my mission to get out on the course early and do some experimenting, familiarizing myself with the boat to get faster. And it worked.

I got out an hour and 45 ­minutes early and first did a lap, upwind and then downwind, just to get a feel for the shifts and the boat, like we all usually do. The Sabot course at SDYC is small, so a lap took only about 10 minutes. Then I went through a series of upwind and downwind drills that really fast-tracked my boatspeed. They’re drills you can do on your own and on just about any boat. When finished, you’ll have a much better sense of your boat’s potential, and they will really free you up to focus on tactics. Plus, they will allow you to get around the course faster and hang in situations where you used to have to bail to allow you to continue ­sailing the right way.

The key, being out there by myself, was that there were no distractions. I wasn’t tuning with someone else; it was the wind, the water and me. Everything revolves around the senses. You’ve got to listen to how your boat is moving through the water, feel the helm in your hand and the tension on the sheets. If you’re on a bigger boat with a knot meter, it can be good to watch the speed for feedback, but you’re really just trying to get a feel for the boat. Stable heel angle is fast. Upwind in a keelboat, it might be 15 degrees of heel, and in a dinghy, it’s dead flat. But regardless of your angle of heel, it needs to be stable to go fast. You can adjust your heel angle through steering, sheet adjustment and weight placement. My goal for the ­practice session was to isolate each of those three techniques, one lap for each, and eventually put them all together for ­maximum smoothness.

First, I sailed a beat ­keeping the boat dead flat by just easing and trimming the main, with no steering and no weight movement. To do this, you might have to overease or trim the sail pretty hard to keep the boat flat, more than you’d do in a race, but that’s fine. I’m learning how much trim I need to keep from heeling to windward and how much ease I need to prevent too much heeling. I was also curious when the front of the main would start luffing on the big eases. In a race, I’d probably head up and hike a little bit rather than overeasing, but right now, I’m just working on the main.

On the next upwind, I focused on steering. I left the mainsheet alone, headed up in the puffs to flatten the boat, and bore away in the lulls for more power to keep the boat from heeling to windward. If there was a gross change in wind, I’d adjust the main a little, but I was working on just steering—sometimes oversteering—to keep the boat stable. Maybe, with the main cleated, you head up so much that to stay flat, the front of the main starts luffing. That’s OK. Then maybe a big lull comes where you have to bear away so much to keep from heeling to windward that you’re too low. Again, that’s fine, because you’re feeling the boat and learning how heading up and bearing away affects power. And you’re quickly learning the range you’ll be working in during a normal race. You might learn that the boat doesn’t slow down as much as you thought it would when heading up to keep it flat. And, when pinching, you might learn where the boatspeed falls off the cliff, or drops considerably.

The next upwind run, I focused on keeping the boat stable mainly by using my weight—scooting in for lulls and hiking in the puffs. Pretty straightforward stuff.

While doing all of the drills, the goal was to keep the boat flat. In a dinghy, to figure out what flat actually is, pay special attention to the helm. You need to feel what the helm is telling you: You’re looking for it to be neutral, dead in your hand—with no tug either way—so the boat would want to go straight if you were to let go of it. In addition to feeling the tiller, I also look at the bow as an indicator of heel angle. In a Sabot, I watched the square bow, keeping the flat edge parallel to the water. If you have a jib, watch the angle of the forestay to the horizon. Either way, it all comes down to feeling the helm.

Now that I had practiced those three areas, on the fourth upwind test, I put it all together. All of a sudden, the boat felt really nice, and all of my actions where smooth. And smooth is really fast. By practicing each of those variables and going to the extreme with them, I learned the bookends, so speak—what’s too much trim, what’s too much ease, how much I need to steer, how much I need to move my weight. And now, putting all those three together in concert, I was more frequently in the sweet spot. As a result, I had to do everything much less—only a little bit of weight movement, a little bit of steering, a little bit of trim in or out—and the boat was cruising along with a very stable heel angle. All that in just 35 to 40 minutes of upwind sailing.

Once happy with my steering, trimming and weight movement, I worked on fore and aft weight placement and modes. With its square, flat bow, you can really hear if your weight is too far forward. Scoot back too much, and you can see and hear the stern wave increase in size. Sailing in the sweet spot, where the bow and stern are quiet, is fast. The same is true, to ­varying degrees, for all boats.

To get the fore-and-aft trim right on the Sabot, I learned that I needed to scoot back in the puffs and forward in the lulls. I could feel it, and I could hear it, and I experimented. The key is to overdo it. Try being clearly too far forward, and listen to what it sounds like. Now move too far back, and listen. You’ll quickly discover that one position is OK, but moving a bit farther is wrong. You’re figuring out the range of where you should be, the sweet spot. It might not be one specific sweet spot, but it’s the range. In the Sabot, I learned it was pretty sensitive and that I had to shift aft more than I thought when the breeze was stronger. When I went from inside the boat to hiking, I had to scoot back almost a foot to get the trim correct—and this is a tiny boat! If you have a knot meter, you’d really be looking at that too for feedback, but you’re still listening and feeling.

Next came modes, something I’m positive people don’t do but is really important. First, I tried a low, fast mode. I sailed lower and lower, while easing the main to match, and felt the boat and its speed increase. Then a little lower and a little lower yet until I could see that I was clearly sailing way too low and too fast. But I was experiencing the boat and its capabilities, learning the range, and figuring out what was clearly too low. In doing so, I also learned how much the boat accelerated when I put the bow down and eased the mainsheet. Sometimes, with just another degree or two down, boats will accelerate much more than you think. Knowing this can come in handy during a race.

Then I transitioned into experimenting high-mode ­sailing. Since the Sabot has no jib, I’m wondering: OK, if I trim the main tighter, how high can I point? When does the boat start to slow down? If I have a knot meter, when do I see the speed start to crash? And how much did it slow down? Maybe it slowed down just one-tenth of a knot. Well, that’s not that bad. Let me try a little higher, a little tighter main. When pinching, at some point the boatspeed will crash. I want to find that point. Once I do, I’ll then know where I’ll be sure not to go.

I then practiced skirting that too-high edge without crossing it. This would allow me to hold lanes during the race and/or make a weather mark if I slightly understood or get a left shift just before rounding. While practicing the high mode, I worked on learning how to pick laylines by choosing a reference on land or a nearby buoy. Then I observed how much leeway I was making. Am I gaining height on a buoy while pinching? What if I pinch too much and stall out? Do I go sideways? This is all great knowledge to have about your boat.

Ultimately, since I had to tack while sailing upwind, I experimented with different styles of tacking—different rates of turns, different amounts of rolling. I learned it was key to be smooth with a slightly fast turn but not roll too hard. By doing so, I’d lose less in each tack. Always assess tacking penalties, regardless of what boat you sail, so you can factor in that to your tactics. The bigger the tacking penalty, the less you should tack.

Grooving Downwind

With all those upwind sessions, I had six to eight downwind runs as well. There I practiced different heel angles and different ways of sitting in the boat so I could be comfortable. It’s a really small boat and I’m big, so it’s super-sensitive to any movement. I looked at how I could adjust heel angle while still being smooth. I felt the boat when puffs hit and learned how to move to keep the heel stable during those changes. I also played around with sail shape—how eased should I have the main, how tight should it be? How much vang should I use—what’s clearly too much, what’s clearly too little?

While experimenting with this, I also worked with which wind angle felt best. Once I found an angle that felt good, I headed up a little and felt what that was like, then bore off a little and felt what that was like. All the while, I tried to find the acceptable range.

After getting comfortable with main trim and wind angle, I opened up my range by swerving around, Laser-style—big bear-aways with some ease, then heading up with trim. I focused on proper main ease to help bear away and how quickly to trim in while heading up. I also practiced a few different types of jibes and experimented with the mechanics of trimming—do I pull the sheet from the ratchet block or directly from the boom? And how do I transition my weight smoothly from one side of the boat to the other? I tried leeboard up a little, leeboard down. And after fumbling around, I figured that I would just leave it alone and focus on heel angle and tactics. I was constantly evaluating what felt good and what didn’t, eliminating processes and styles that didn’t work.

Fast-forward to that evening’s racing. It’s the third race, and we’re sailing upwind on port tack. We’re in a big lift, and down to leeward is a 12-year-old sailor, Anton Schmid, the current Sabot national ­champion. He’s bow out on me and pointing to the moon. It’s blowing around 3 knots, he weighs 80 pounds less than me, and he’s going to pinch me off in about 30 seconds. I really don’t want to tack because I’m almost aiming at the mark, and tacking in 3 knots is painful. So I start pointing, practicing what I had done earlier, a super-high mode without stalling and falling off the cliff. I’m trying to stop the bleeding and hold my lane as long as possible. He’s still gaining on me, and eventually it gets to the point where he is starting to affect me, but it takes one ­minute instead of 30 seconds.

I still really didn’t want to tack, so I ease the main and foot through his lee. I immediately think, I practiced this two hours ago. It’s the low and fast mode . I knew it was too low for VMG sailing, but it fit my goal perfectly in this moment because I didn’t want to tack, and I wanted clear air again. Once in a clean lane, I head back up, go into the normal upwind mode, and let him point up and away from me. My lane gets better and better because I am in a normal mode, and he is in a high mode. I’m still on the long tack waiting for the next shift. Lo and behold, before I get to the weather mark, a little righty comes to me. I tack and round the mark fourth. Had I tacked away or stayed in his bad air, I probably would have been 12th. The run gets really weird and light, and I’m able to stay in the puffs and finish a strong second. That striking-distance position was set up by my moding on the first beat to keep sailing the shifts.

A few other times that ­evening my moding practice paid off, allowing me to sail the shift and go the right way by either holding high to keep a lane on a pointer or footing fast forward to the next shift. Luckily, at the end of the regatta, I had the least net points before the drop—a much better result than a week earlier, all attributed to my training.

The point of all of this, of course, is to find the extremes of your boat’s performance, upwind and downwind. It really teaches you about your boat’s capabilities and helps you keep it going fast all the time. By learning the extremes, your mental autopilot becomes much stronger. Your subconscious mind can keep it between the extremes while you are looking around and thinking about tactics, and your senses will be more attuned to your boat.

An added benefit is that it’s great for lane management. For example, in practice, you press the bow down a little bit and maybe gain a tenth or two of speed. But then you press a little more, ease the sheets a hair more, and gain a half a knot! It’s like, “Whoa! I didn’t even know that existed in this boat.” So now, suppose you’ve just started, and you’re going upwind with three boats above you that appear likely to roll you. Because of your ­practice, you now know that you can put the bow down, pick up a half-knot of speed, and end up bow out on them. Once there, you can return to your normal upwind mode.

Or suppose you’re sailing upwind and really like the way you’re going. You see this beautiful puff straight ahead, so you drop the bow down a little, pop the boatspeed up a half-knot, and just haul the mail to that puff. As you meet the puff header, you roll into a tack and you’re gone!

Or maybe downwind you like where you’re heading, but someone is starting to get near your breeze. You know exactly how much you can head up or fall off to keep a big lane and still have a solid VMG, all the while trimming accurately and keeping the heel correct—and, as a result, going fast. You can also use these moding tricks downwind to hedge toward more breeze and then spend more time in the puff.

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Sabot Boats for sale

2 Sabot sailboats and custom trailer

Tehachapi, California

Model Dagger Board

Length 8 feet

Posted Over 1 Month

Two complete Sabot sailboats. Both use dagger boards. White boat is completely ready to sail. Blue boat needs a couple wood pieces replaced before sailing. Trailer is complete and ready to tow, lights work, pink slip , etc. Please look at pictures and ask questions. They are used, and I am not an expert on these boats. They are sold as is, where is, you must pick up, or arrange for shipping. Payment in cash at time of pickup.

Sabot Sailboat

San Luis Obispo, California

This sailboat was donated to a nonprofit organization. The nonprofit organization has no room for storage or need for the boat. It's condition is used, with many white scratches on the bottom of the boat. They are hairline scratches - nothing serious. Buyer will need to pay for shipping.

2008 Catalina Sabot

Lake Ozark, Missouri

Make Catalina

Model Sabot

Category Sailboats

2008 Catalina Sabot The U.S. Sabot by Catalina continues the tradition of the thousands of Sabots sailing today as the perfect first boat for the beginning sailor due to its simplicity and saftey. Equipped with the racing package, the Sabot offers all the sail controls of a larger boat, so learning sailors can develop the full range of sail trimming skills. TheSabot is built to withstand the tough use of a learning sailor. The full flotation hull is made of innner and outer hand-laid fiberglass parts for durability. The mast is tapered fiberglass and the boom is anodized aluminum.

Naples Sabot Sailboat

Bellflower, California

Working Naples Sabot Sailboat - Complete with Oars

8' Hard to find Schock Naples Sabot Sailboat for sale

Woodland Park, Colorado

A rarely used, hard-to-find older model yellow (color) Schock Naples Sabot 8' Sailboat for sale. Sail away in this 2-person, fun boat, which is perfect for lake sailing and great fun for kids! - The sailboat is rigged to the seat, and will include: - A numbered sail - The mast, rudder, dagger board, and boom! - The rigging guide - A life preserver, paddle, and carry rack - Sailboat is in excellent condition, as is everything that comes with it - Comparable sailboats range from $1,000 to $3,100 - The sailboat is comparable to the one shown here; it is in storage awaiting you to come see! - New owner must pick up the boat, there will be no deliveries or shipping - Cash or check only, new owner writing a check will be able to pick up item when check clears the bank. - The sailboat is similar to the one shown here. For more information or to schedule a viewing, email dedanna1029 at gmail dot com. - See more at: http://www.classifiedads.com/boats-ad123074811.htm#sthash.ndtJ8BWZ.dpuf

Boating Accessories Lots O Stuff

Marina Del Rey, California

Boating Accessories Lots O Stuff 4Sale or Barter Please Email for any photos you would like to see! US Sabot by Catalina Yachts for sale This is a Complete racing Sabot Dinghy Comes with Training Sails and racing sails rigging all in great shapr All bags and covers Everything you need to win! Yours for $850 Ford Lemans Head Ford Lemans 120hp 6 cyl Head Early model From Grand Banks 36' Head with valves Excellent shape Clean and Ready to install Sic RMC23345A $750 6'.5" Inflatable Very Small Like NEW! In Bag & Ready Baltik The most compact and rigid dingy ever made! Stored out of the SUN. Like new shape Holds air and Water GREAT!!! Baltik inflatable made of PVC 5-layer Thick Two main air chambers Aluminum Inside and Outside motor pads for better transom protection. high pressure Air Deck Floor. Set of oars. And comes with sun and rain cover! And Storage bag. $1100! Outboard Motor Lock Bar 11'" long Black Great shape $15 Pigtail Adapter by MARINCO Power cord adapter 30A125V locking plug To 15A125V female Connector 1st $40 Flame Arrester for a Marine 4 Barrel Carb Coast Guard approved fame arrester for 4 barrel Carb Good condition $35 VINTAGE ANTIQUE BENSON'S BOAT ANCHOR 12 POUNDS 18 x 18" Galvanized boat Anchor Painted white From 1958 SYRACUSE NY IN VERY GOOD CONDITION 18" high 18" wide A VERY RARE VINTAGE FIND Asking $250 Detmar Interment Panel for Perkins RPM Hour Meter Temp Oil Press Volts Alarm In work order plug in and go $55 Firdell Blipper 4 Meters radar Reflector $25 Firdell Blipper Radar Reflector This fully-encapsulated unit provides the greatest return. The model 210-5 weighs under 4 pounds and is only 20" long, ideal for boats with limited space. The USCG is using them aboard their new inflatable rescue craft. Any boat can be seen by radar using the Blipper, even at 30 degrees angle of heel. Plastic coating prevents chafing of sails and rigging. The Blipper is secured to the mast with mounting brackets, or sent up the flag halyard with provided stainless eyes. The equivalent echo area is calculated at over 6 meters squared HD Aluminum Dock Steps 3 step Make climbing aboard easier! Durable, last for ever With storage area in the back!!! But must put new lock in!! Steps have Safety Hand rail mounts to the side Steps stand 24"x24 x30 with 8" step raise Aluminum great shape but could use a paint Steps has new non skid $140 Sell Now Outboard motor Stand Ultra rugged made with HD steel and wood 32" tall and 12" wide wood mount for motor handles outboards up to 80lb or 150lb Store your outboard motor in the upright position during the off season And the stand makes the outboard easer to work on $140 BBQ 16" Magma for parts or Charcoal Grill Tell me what you need Or Buy it all for $55 This would now make a great Magma Kettle BBQ Grill charcoal !!!!!

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International Naples Sabot

Class contact information.

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Class Email

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One-Design Class Type: Dinghy

Was this boat built to be sailed by youth or adults? Both

Approximately how many class members do you have? 400

Photo Credit:

Photo Credit: Rusty McDonnell

About International Naples Sabot

The Naples Sabot is an 8 foot, 1 person, one-design sailboat that has been the sailing trainer of choice in Southern California for nearly 60 years. During that time, the Naples Sabot has created some of the finest and most talented sailors in our sport. Our Class stretches beyond junior sailing. The Sabot has something to offer to sailors of all ages. We encourage family sailing, junior sailing, senior sailing, and even weekend cruising!

Boats Produced: 10300

Class boat builder(s):

Bedford Boats

Approximately how many boats are in the USA/North America? 10300

Where is your One-Design class typically sailed in the USA? List regions of the country:

Southern California

Does this class have a spinnaker or gennaker? No

How many people sail as a crew including the helm?  1

Ideal combined weight of range of crew:  60-150

Boat Designed in  1946

Length (feet/inches): 8′

Beam: 46″

Weight of rigged boat without sails: 95

Draft: 4″

Mast Height: 13’3″

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• Description
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An 8' sail/row plywood pram

This V-bottom dinghy is akin to the renown Sabot, using the identical rig and rudder, and fitted with a daggerboard for the Sail Version. It's also similar in form and dimensions to the popular El Toro class. SABOTINA makes a great ship-to-shore dinghy with or without the sail rig. You can build either our STANDARD VERSION or our STITCH-&-GLUE VERSION. The STANDARD VERSION is built upside down over the two transoms (ends) and 3 temporary formers that don’t stay in the boat. Longitudinal wood backing members back up the hull edges and junctions, and receive the planking fastenings. Many people prefer this type of construction since it's a good introduction to typical wood boatbuilding operations involved on bigger boats, hones one's skills, and therefore provides great training. Yet our basic construction as perfected by Ken Hankinson in actual boatbuilding classroom situations is much simplified over past types. And our available FULL SIZE PATTERNS option for the hull-forming members speed the process for the inexperienced builder. But for even faster, simpler construction, others prefer our "STITCH-&-GLUE" version. This includes FULL SIZE PATTERNS for ALL panel and structural members of the boat, and results in the lightest weight boat. Hull fastenings are virtually eliminated, as are the backing members at panel joints. Seats are integral with the structure, and form closed-in flotation compartments. Whichever SABOTINA you pick, you can save hundreds of $$$ over the cost of ready-made dinghies. They're both fun & easy, and ideal starter boats.

What Makes a Good Pram

Prams should tow, row, and sail well. Yet many don’t, even costly production boats and some from competitors. Hull shape is the key. For directional control when rowing, towing, or sailing, a v-bottom chined hull is best. Flat-bottomed prams can’t do all three functions well, and those of round or multi-chined form are less stable and harder to build. For least drag and best speed, prams need enough profile "rocker" so ends can lift. There must be just-the-right fullness in these ends (especially the bow) so it won't push up a wall of water underway. Buoyancy must be sufficient for stability and load carrying. Yet too many prams have ends too broad or deep - you can tell them by their bow waves piling up ahead while turbulence gathers aft due to drag from a too-wide stern. This drag makes headway and directional control difficult under sail or oar, and such boats may swamp when towed. SABOTINA meets all these demands well. It's based on the most proven dinghy hull of all time (same as Sabots, El Toro's, and others), with thousands in use world wide. We've refined the details so building is fast and easy, even for beginners.

About Sabotina's Mast and Boom

The wood mast we detail is superior and costs next to nothing compared to one in aluminum. It's stiffer, stronger, and floats too! Best of all, it's easy to make and with no need to pay any freight to get it. If a round dowel is not available, start with a 2" square section length of wood (or Glue one up from thinner laminates - Douglas-fir or Sitka spruce work well). Then make it octagon-shaped (which is round enough) by setting a table saw blade at 45-degrees, and cutting off the four corners to form 8 equal facets. That's all there is to it! Our sail simply slips over it. The boom is a 1" x 2" stick of strong wood such as fir or oak. No rocket science involved! Andy Suhrer of OREGON sent us these comments about his Stitch & Glue SABOTINA he built from our plans and which he uses as a tender for his larger boat:

"The whole project - painting and all - took 60 hours and $400 of materials. The pram had a tremendous amount of use this summer...and has proven to be remarkably tough... I'm continually impressed with the results. Without a doubt it is the easiest and fastest to build boat I've ever come across (I've built several "stitch-&-glue" [and] "instant" boats previously)... Can't praise it enough... Thanks for the great service."

Standard Materials List PDF S&G Materials List PDF

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The 5 Best Sailboats For Beginners

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

December 27, 2023

Sailing is a fun activity for people of all experience levels. In fact, learning to sail a basic boat is relatively easy—in the right environment, you can start cruising with minimal experience.

However, the idea of a beginner commanding a 55-foot ketch in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean is a bit ridiculous. Even though virtually everyone can sail, beginners should learn the basics in a controlled environment—and on the correct boat.

Boat size doesn’t necessarily affect its beginner-friendliness, because sailors need to take into account factors such as rig simplicity and handling characteristics. 

Many beginners make the mistake of picking the wrong boat to begin with, which can lead to frustration and turn them off of sailing forever.

To mitigate these issues, this article will cover the best sailboats for beginners —so you can get on the water and start sailing safely and comfortably.

Table of contents

‍ Best Rigs for Beginners 

There are many types of sailboat rigging , and some are more beginner-friendly than others. Unfortunately, some of the most aesthetically pleasing rigs are also the most complicated. 

Eventually, sailors can acquire enough skill to master complex rigs, but it’s best to start simple. 

Arguably, one of the simplest sailing rigs is the Lateen Rig. This rig consists of a mast, boom, and spar, along with a single halyard and mainsheet. With only two ropes in its simplest configuration, the Lateen Rig makes an excellent starter sailboat, and it will be featured on this list. 

For larger boats, the Bermuda Sloop rig is an excellent choice. This rig is quite common and includes a jib for a larger sail plan.

For those who desire a slightly more robust (but single sail) layout, the gaff-rigged catboat is also an excellent choice. This versatile craft (and rig) has a large and relatively simple single sail, which is easier to handle than multiple sails.

Top Five Sailboats for Beginners 

Now, we’ll go over the top five sailboats for beginners . These boats will descend in order from smallest to largest, but not by the level of experience needed.  

Remember, just because you’re new to sailing doesn’t mean you have to settle for a boat that’s too small. Beginners can handle larger boats with some training, and some are easier to handle than their smaller counterparts.  ‍

The following boats were chosen because of their handling characteristics, low cost-of-ownership, and simplicity, as all of these factors are important for choosing the best beginner sailboat.

5) Sailing Dinghy

The sailing dinghy is the quintessential starter sailboat. These tiny, lightweight, popular, and highly affordable little craft is easy to operate and relatively difficult to capsize. The popular Optimist Sailing Dinghy, while designed for children up to the age of about 15, can be used (sometimes hilariously) by adults as well. An Optimist-style dingy is a great option for beginners over the age of 15, as boats of this style can be found in a variety of sizes. The sailing dinghy is a very popular youth racing sailboat, especially in the United States and the United Kingdom. While it’s not particularly fast, this little boat has wonderful handling characteristics and is relatively difficult to capsize. This open-cockpit boat uses a centerboard and detachable tiller and can be beached or carried atop a car without much hassle. The mast is removable, and all parts are easily stowed. Overall, the Optimist and its copycats are a remarkable little craft, equally useful as a tender for a larger boat or a standalone beginner sailboat.

Dinghy rigs vary between builders, but many use the simple Spirit Rig. The rig consists of a single sail and mainsheet, along with one mast, boom, and spar. The leech is stiffened by battens, and ties along the luff secure it all to the mast. Hoisting and securing the rig is easy, and lines are secured to the boat by a cleat. This simple rig has plenty of sail area for most places, and sailors can secure the mainsheet to a block or simply hold it in their hands.

The price of sailing dinghies can vary widely depending on multiple factors. Professionally-made sailing dinghies start around $3,500 new, and plywood kits are available for around $1,000 to $2,000. Used dinghies (including Optimist sailing dinghies) can be found on Craigslist for as low as a few hundred dollars. 

{{boat-info="/boats/vanguard-sunfish"}}

The Sunfish is a brilliant little sailboat, and a very fast boat indeed. This little racing dinghy, while only 13 feet in length, can be an enormous amount of fun for beginners and experienced sailors alike. The best way to describe the handling of a Sunfish is, ‘tender,’ though it’s not difficult to master this little boat. For its size, the Sunfish has a relatively large sail area and a very shallow draft. This boat has a small cockpit and can be controlled easily by a single person. The large sail plan of the Lateen-Rigged Sunfish makes for excellent performance in light winds and amazing speed on windy days. The Sunfish is a lightweight fiberglass boat with a simple rig and is a great step-up from a sailing dinghy. It’s possible to learn how to sail on this boat, but every sailor who’s spent time on a Sunfish will probably recommend bringing a towel. The boat is relatively easy to capsize for beginners and it heels aggressively, but these characteristics can teach sailors some important lessons. The heeling characteristics of the Sunfish can help beginners get accustomed to the feeling and help them understand the limits of a sailboat and how to avoid capsizing.

The Sunfish features a Lateen Rig, which has some shared characteristics with the simple Spirit Rig. The Lateen Rig has a single spar, mast, and boom, and is easy to set up and dismantle. The mast is removable as well, making stowing and transportation relatively easy. The large sail plan of the Sunfish makes it ideal for lakes and other areas where the wind is sporadic or very low, and the boat can be safely handled in many conditions. The boat is great for racing and learning and is also available in a Bermuda rig. The Sunfish is recognizable by the distinctive fish logo in the top corner of the sail, and the classic rainbow sails striping.

The Sunfish is still commercially manufactured. You can purchase one new from the factory for around $5,000 today, and options are available to make the boat your own. While the boat is designed to be sailed by a single person, two adults can purchase this boat and use it together comfortably. Used Sunfish prices vary, but a fully-outfitted boat in good condition can cost upwards of $1,000. They hold their value well, and they’re a great choice for beginners. 

{{boat-info="/boats/vanguard-laser"}}

The Laser is considered by many to be the Sunfish’s main competitor. The two boats are the same length (13 feet 9 inches) and share many of the same handling characteristics. However, the boats do have some notable differences. Many people consider the Laser to be a step-up from the Sunfish in difficulty, as the boat handles much more like a racer. The Laser has been used in the Olympics for racing. The laser is small and simple enough for beginners but requires skill to operate. Beginners can learn a lot from sailing a Laser and have an enormous amount of fun in the process. This fast little boat is simple and easy to set up but handles like a racecar.  If you’re a beginner on a laser, you’ll probably capsize at some point—which isn’t always a problem if you’re in a controlled environment, as the boat can be righted easily.

The laser is a Cat Rigged boat. This means it has only one mainsail and no headsails. The simple rig has a mast and a boom and is very easy to set up. The sail area of the laser is relatively large and designed for speed in high winds. The rig combined with the overall design of the sailboat makes it handle tenderly, which may be off-putting to some beginners. Regardless, it’s still a blast to sail for beginners with some experience.

New Laser sailboats start around $6,000 which is slightly more than the Sunfish. This simple centerboard cruiser is constructed as a race boat, which can explain some of the price increase. Used Laser sailboats are available on the market, though usually not as common as the Sunfish. Used Laser prices vary widely.

2) Gaff-Rigged Catboat

The gaff-rigged catboat isn’t a brand of boat—it’s a style of a sailboat that was once a popular workboat on the New England coast. This boat, which has only one mainsail and no headsails, is available in a wide range of designs. Catboats are famous for their handling and power and make a great sailboat for beginners. These vessels are available with centerboards, keels, cabins, and in open designs. Most catboats range from 15 to 19-feet long and can be built from wood or fiberglass. Catboats are easy to handle, and one who learns on a small catboat can easily transition to a larger one. Besides being one of the most easily recognizable sailboats, catboats are also some of the most versatile. A catboat can be just as suitable for lake cruising as it is for coastal waters.

The most common type of catboat rig is the Gaff Rig. This classic and robust rig is more complex than the simple Spirit and Lateen rig, but it’s more suitable for a ‘proper ship.’ The Gaff Rig can provide similar power as an equivalent Bermuda Rig, with much more elegance and a shorter mast. Many sailors prefer the classic Gaff Rig for its handling characteristics and durability.

It’s impossible to specify the price of catboats because they vary so much in design and size. New catboats (between 15 and 25-feet) can be purchased for less than $20,000, and used boats are numerous and varied. Cabin catboats tend to cost more, especially new—some run for more than $50,000 with a high level of amenities, including a head and galley. Numerous catboat plans are available online, and sailors report constructing them (usually of plywood) for just a few thousand dollars.

1) West Wight Potter 19

{{boat-info="/boats/west-wight-potter-19"}}

The West Wight Potter 19 is a fiberglass sailboat designed for safety, easy handling, and beginner-friendliness. This 19-foot trailer-sailor features a cabin with a vee-berth, a simple rig, and a retractable keel. The West Wight Potter 19 could potentially be the best cabin sailboat for beginners, and certainly one of the safest—the West Wight Potter 19, according to the manufacturer, is quite literally unsinkable. The hull is filled with buoyant materials, allowing the boat to be flooded and remain afloat. However, unsinkability isn’t the only characteristic of this boat that makes it ideal for beginners. The rig is simple and easy to set up, and the handling characteristics are excellent. The boat is not prone to aggressive heeling and handles confidently in a variety of conditions. While one generally wouldn’t consider it to be a blue-water cruiser, it’s still extremely capable—one sailor even sailed this vessel from California to Hawaii , which is over 2,000 nautical miles. The theoretical hull speed of this boat is around 5.4 knots, but it actually has a tendency to plane and achieve higher speeds. It’s a flat-bottomed cruiser, making it easy to beach and transport with its retractable keel and removable rudder. The West Wight Potter 19 is a great introduction to large sailboats and carries amenities normally reserved for boats at least 1/3 larger.

The West Wight Potter 19 is a Bermuda-Rigged sloop. The sail plan is sufficiently large to propel the boat in a variety of conditions, but not so large that it overpowers the boat. Sailors can single-hand the boat with ease, and set up and takedown are easy and require no special tools. The boat handles well in a variety of conditions and is well-known for its superior stability. The rig comes apart easily and can be stowed and trailered by one person.

The West Wight Potter 19 has been produced and sold commercially since the 1970s, and the used market has plenty of boats available, generally starting around $5,000. New West Wight Potter 19 sailboats are remarkably affordable compared to other boats with comparable characteristics. The West Wight Potter 19 is manufactured by International Marine in California. New sailboats start at just shy of $25,000. Owners can add an enormous range of extra features to their boats, including a hull-strengthening ‘blue water’ package, a stove, a head, electrical power, spare parts, and much more. The boats are highly customizable and can be outfitted for weekender sailing or long-term liveaboard cruising.

How to Pick a Sailboat

Picking a sailboat for beginners doesn’t have to be difficult.  Before deciding on a boat, consider your experience level and location.

If you only have access to rough ocean, it may not be the best idea to get an open dinghy.

If you live near a lake, a Sunfish could be a great way to start.

Also, consider your budget. If you’re looking for a $50 sailboat, you can probably find one, but it won’t be ideal.

If you have just a few thousand dollars to spend, you can set yourself up nicely with a little research .

Also, consider what you want to do with the sailboat. Recreation, fishing , cruising , and exploration are options, and require different kinds of boats.

Whichever you end up choosing, make sure you try it out and can sail it comfortably.

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• Sailboat Guide

Sabot (Australian)

Sabot (Australian) is a 8 ′ 0 ″ / 2.4 m monohull sailboat designed by Charles McGregor and built by Dinghy Sports starting in 1960.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Like the US SABOT, the AUSTRALIAN SABOT is loosely based on a design by Charles McGregor that appeared in (US) The Rudder Magazine in 1939. Similar though not the same as the US version.

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Naples Sabot

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• Naples Sabot

Boat Covers

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Sabot Parts

Lido 14 Parts

Cal 20 Parts

We now offer bulk shipping! Order one or more parts and get one price shipping.

Gresham rudders, centerboards, and leeboards have constantly won national championships and major regattas since 2000. We carry a complete line of new and replacement parts for the Lido 14, Naples Sabot, Cal 20, and more. We specialize in boat repair, rigging, and tuning.

Tiller Head

Lido 14 Parts $ 145.00 – $ 199.00 Choose Options

Carbon Mast Naples Sabot

Sabot Parts $ 975.00 + Add to cart

Carbon Boom Sabot

Sabot Parts $ 875.00 $ 775.00 + Add to cart

Bzzz Main Sheet Sabot

Sabot Parts $ 55.00 + Add to cart

Shroud Backing Plate

Lido 14 Parts $ 195.00 + Add to cart

Gudgeon Special (pair)

Cal 20 Parts $ 69.00 $ 49.00 + Add to cart

Pintles Special (pair)

Lido 14 Parts $ 79.00 $ 59.00 + Add to cart

Rudder Keeper

Lido 14 Parts $ 20.00 + Add to cart

Rudder Head by Boat Type

Cal 20 Parts $ 65.00 – $ 135.00 Choose Options

Rudder Head by Size

Cal 20 Parts $ 65.00 – $ 110.00 Choose Options

Kick Up Rudder

Blades $ 495.00 $ 475.00 + Add to cart

Cal 20 Parts $ 195.00 – $ 250.00 Choose Options

Thistle Rudder

Blades + Add to cart

Mast Step Wrap

Lido 14 Parts $ 24.99 + Add to cart

Centerboard Trunk Stiffener Kit

Lido 14 Parts $ 55.00 Choose Options

CenterBoard Horn

Lido 14 Parts $ 99.00 $ 89.00 + Add to cart

Centerboard Hangers – Lido 14

Lido 14 Parts $ 75.00 + Add to cart

Barrel Nuts

Lido 14 Parts $ 19.00 + Add to cart

Lido 14 Rudder

Lido 14 Centerboard

Lido 14 Rudder-Classic

Blades $ 695.00 $ 595.00 + Add to cart

Lido 14-Shroud Special

Lido 14 Parts $ 250.00 $ 225.00 Choose Options

Lido 14 Rail Stiffeners

Lido 14 Parts $ 60.00 + Add to cart

Lido 14 Parts $ 129.00 $ 115.00 + Add to cart

Jib Cleat Brackets

Lido 14 Parts $ 55.00 – $ 110.00 Choose Options

Used Lido 14 Rudders

Blades $ 325.00 $ 275.00 + Add to cart

El Toro Rudder & Centerboard

New Lido 14 Boom Complete Special

Lido 14 Parts $ 900.00 $ 799.00 + Add to cart

Lido 14 Boom Extrusion

Lido 14 Parts $ 175.00 – $ 275.00 Choose Options

Lido 14 Boom Stiffener

Boom End Outhaul Exit

Lido 14 Parts $ 21.00 + Add to cart

Ronstan Tiller Extensions

Lido 14 Parts $ 65.00 Choose Options

Cal 20 Tiller and Rudder Head

Cal 20 Parts $ 295.00 + Add to cart

Cal 20-Rudder

Cal 20 Tiller Yoke Wood

Cal 20 Parts $ 225.00 + Add to cart

Naples Sabot Leeboard

Naples Sabot Floorboard

Sabot Parts $ 295.00 – $ 425.00 Choose Options

Naples Sabot Rudder

Naples Sabot Lee Board Washer

Sabot Parts $ 20.00 Choose Options

Naples Sabot Leeboard Handle – Free Shipping

Sabot Parts $ 40.00 + Add to cart

Naples Sabot Leeboard Arm. Sale!

Sabot Parts $ 225.00 $ 195.00 + Add to cart

Naples Sabot Leeboard Gunnel Bracket

Sabot Parts $ 75.00 + Add to cart

Naples Sabot Mast Tube

Sabot Parts $ 250.00 + Add to cart

Naples Sabot Mast Rake Adjuster

Sabot Parts $ 160.00 + Add to cart

T-Handle Quick Pin

7″ Stainless Steel Straps

Sabot Parts $ 39.00 + Add to cart

5″ Stainless Steel Strap

Sabot Parts $ 36.00 + Add to cart

5″ Curved Stainless Steel Strap

Round Gooseneck for the Naples Sabot

Sabot Parts $ 30.00 + Add to cart

Square Gooseneck for the Naples Sabot

Sabot Leeboard and Rudder

Blades $ 275.00 – $ 625.00 Choose Options

Hiking Strap Kits

Lido 14 Parts $ 65.00 – $ 110.00 Choose Options

Catalina 30 Spreaders (wood)

Parts $ 625.00 + Add to cart

Cal 20 Parts $ 20.00 + Add to cart

Lido 14 Teak Bow Tray

Lido 14 Parts $ 195.00 $ 155.00 + Add to cart

Bottom Cover-Naples Sabot

Boat Covers $ 411.24 – $ 522.74 Choose Options

Top Cover-Naples Sabot

Boat Covers $ 254.17 – $ 307.91 Choose Options

Top Cover-Lido 14

Boat Covers $ 554.70 – $ 605.23 Choose Options

Bottom Cover-Lido 14

Boat Covers $ 405.28 – $ 453.65 Choose Options

Mast & Boom Cover-Naples Sabot

Boat Covers $ 212.35 – $ 247.85 Choose Options

Forestay Adjuster

Lido 14 Parts $ 36.00 + Add to cart

Sabot Tiller and Rudder Head

Sabot Parts $ 254.00 Choose Options

• In the News
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Welcome to W.D. Schock Corp., building sailboats for 70+ years!

--setting the standard, building boats since 1946 --.

Welcome to W.D. Schock Corp.

Thank you for your interest in W.D. Schock Corp. boat builders,   

We manufacture new sailboats, and offer parts/support for new and legacy boats.

We can't wait to build your next sailboat!

W.D. Schock has been building boats for more than 70 years, and more than 70 different design builds. One of our favorite boats, the Harbor 20 is a perfect option for clubs wanting to start a race series with fun, comfortable, convenient racing sailboats. The Harbor 20 is a perfect choice for first time or seasoned sailors. 

We look forward to making your sailing dreams come true!

 Be a part of our continued legacy, call today and let us customize your next sailboat! 

(951) 277-3377

W.D. Schock Corp. Highlights

• W.D. Schock has been designing & producing boats for over 70 years
•  SAIL Best Boat Award Winner for the Harbor 30 
• We have built more than 15,000  boats that are sailing all over the world
• Our sailboats are still proudly made in the USA in Southern  California, call us for a tour- we pride ourselves in our boat building  process! 
• We have built over 70 different boat designs and continue to grow

Genuine Schock Parts are available from our national network of stocking dealers or direct from the factory via telephone sale at  (951) 277-3377. 

W.D. Schock is one of the last sailboat builders in Southern California.

Ready to purchase your next sailboat?

 Be a part of our legacy, call today  and let us build your next sailboat.  (951) 277-3377

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