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J/42 ARROWHEAD

Arrowhead is a wonderful cruising yacht with almost all systems and infrastructure recently updated to a high standard. Originally built for the J boat designer, Rob Johnstone, the manufacturer took special care to finish the interior with details usually found on much larger sailing yachts. As an example, you immediately notice the beautiful cherry interior with countersunk and bunged screw holes. The current owner has gone to great detail and expense to maintain the interior and exterior finishes to an "as new" level. This J 42, when in race mode, has had a history of outstanding performances. Hull #62 has competed in the 2015 Trans-Atlantic race (7th place), and every Newport to Bermuda race since she came out of the factory mold. (two 2nd place and one third-place trophy's) When you look at the interior fit and finish you don't see a race boat, therein lies what is special about Arrowhead. This yacht is outfitted for worldwide cruising with updated house systems, sails, and running rigging inventories. The yacht is optimized for ocean racing in double-handed mode, which makes short-handed operation easy. A two to one main halyard, two deep reefing points with Dutchman Sail Control operated from the cockpit, and a #3 headsail is all you need to sail at hull speed in 15 knots of true wind. While classic in profile and layout, the J/42 stepped into the future when considering structural strength, performance, ease-of-handling, stability, and sailing comfort. This progress is now available to the cruising sailor in a boat that handles like a 35 footer, with the solid feel and motion of a 50 footer. Arrowhead is fitted with a custom Jim Taylor designed keel which reduces displacement by 1,000 pounds and improves performance to weather by 5 degrees apparent wind angle. This further enhances the already excellent sailing characteristics and performance of the J/42 both on the racecourse, and when on a hard beat to weather while cruising The patented SCRIMP process pulls triple the normal vacuum-bagging levels to draw all the air out of cored hull & deck laminates and to draw a slow-curing resin into every void in a single step. It's a better and healthier way to build boats because toxic styrene emissions are eliminated. It offers higher strength (65% vs. typical 40% glass content) and a void-free laminate far superior to hand lay-up or chopper gun construction. The savings in weight is added to the bottom of the keel in the form of a lead bulb, shaped as an inverted wedge with a tapered tail aft. This is why J/42's center of gravity (CG) is so much lower than other cruisers. A low VCG means greater stability, which means better sail carrying ability. The greater sail area dampens the motion of the hull/deck/rig in waves. Pitch & roll create resistance to water flow around the hull and air flow past the sails. By reducing resistance, the J/42 sails faster and more comfortably. Sea kindliness, and how a boat handles the sea, also relates to how it handles the crew at sea and how the crew may subsequently enjoy interior amenities when arriving in port.

Make or Manufacturer

Length overall, fuel capacity, water capacity.

IJPE : 790.00 sq ft I : 50.50 ft J : 14.75 ft P : 46.50 ft E : 18.00 ft Working Sail Area : 790.00 sq ft

Manufacturer Provided Description The J42 is designed to fulfill two goals: Privacy for each of two couples when cruising, or ample space and convenience for one couple living aboard for an extended period of time. Sailing the J-42 is easy for one person, thanks to superb wheel response and a common-sense sail plan. J-42 balances well and sails upwind faster under mainsail only than some cruisers using both main and large genoa. A self-draining deck anchor-storage locker, behind the standard Lewmar electric windlass, is big enough for an anchor rode and a cruising spinnaker, ready-to-fly in a "snuffer" sock (two in inventory). A watertight collision bulkhead separates this locker from a spacious owners' stateroom with twin berths (convertible to an over-size double) The main cabin features exceptional joiner work in varnished cherry with cold-molded fiddles with fully paneled doors, and oval door trim. Vertical panels are hand-matched "grain" cherry with a durable hand-rubbed varnish finish. Two main settees double as sea-berths and are pitched outboard 5 degrees for secure sleeping at anchor. Stainless overhead grab rails are excellent handholds, drying racks, and lee-cloth anchors. The J-shaped galley is well-ventilated next to the companionway and features a recessed, deep, double sink in a Corian countertop. Five deck hatches over interior living spaces are mounted on the cabin trunk to permit use when sailing. Exceptional ventilation throughout the yacht is provided by four polished stainless Dorade intakes, 11 opening ports and hatches, and the dodger-protected companionway.

House systems are designed for extended cruising, and comfortable ocean racing:

-Refrigeration is a dual system, fully redundant, with independent feeds to the Seafrost plate featuring both an engine drive compressor and the 12V Tradewinds compressor. The box is customized with a deep freeze compartment and regular refrigeration compartment (frozen food Newport to England).

-A Force Ten 3-Burner North America Standard gas stove and 30L oven serve up gourmet meals for the entire crew, safely and easily.

-A Spectra Newport Watermaker features 8 GPH 12-volt performance which augments the 100 gallons of freshwater tankage divided into two 50 Gallon polypropylene white tanks. Variable speed quiet Marco water pump.

Webasto Diesel Heat with vents in both heads and cabins keep the cabin comfortable when extended the cruising season, or that chilly first night of the Bermuda Race.

New head assemblies in both heads, with the forward "ensuite" head featuring the Raritan FreshHead freshwater unit. H/C Shower units with pans and shower sump pumps in both heads. Holding tanks systems for both heads with deck pump-out access and manual overboard pump-out systems in place.

-All interior lighting converted to LED, with main cabin lighting featuring dimmer switches.

• House AGM battery system upgraded to three Group 31 units for 345 AH of house power feeding a Mastervolt 2500 Combi Inverter/Charger. A separate Group 31 battery serves as the engine start battery and can be combined with the house bank for 460 AH of house power!! A Balmar 150 Amp Alternator with QuickCharge Regulator keeps the system easily topped off. Digital 12V panel with house system breakers. Bass 120V AC panel with house breakers and shore power and inverter interface.

Navigation Electronics Raymarine Axiom Chart Plotter (2) one at Helm one at Nav station - 2018 Raymarine Quantum Chirp Radar on radar aft mast - 2018 Raymarine Evolution Autopilot - 2018 EV1 Fluxgate ACU 200 Control unit

Raymarine ST 60 Wind Speed Depth Raymarine St to STng Converter - 2018 Raymarine Repeater Displays (I70’s (2), ST60 Multi’s (3), ST60 Graphics (2) Raymarine ST 60 Competition mast head wind unit and cockpit display Raymarine SR150 Sirius Weather - 2015 Raymarine AIS650 Dual Channel AIS – 2015 Raymarine Raystar GPS 130 – 2015 AIS/VHF Antenna Splitter to masthead Digital Yacht NavLink NMEA Wireless Router 2015 Spare VHF Antenna on Radar Aft Mast Spare AIS Antenna on Radar Aft Mast Tri Lens Radar Reflector on Radar Aft Mast Icom M710 SSB Radio (Decommissioned) Tuner and wiring installed Iridium Go Sat Nav Wireless Unit – 2018 Standard Quantum GX5000 VHF with Ram Mic for helm station – 2016 New Sony Bluetooth stereo and cockpit speakers – 45W per channel – 2018 22” ViewSonic LED Display with Displayport/USB/HDMI interface – 2015 Custom monitor mount and articulating arm for navigation station and main salon viewing - 2014

12 Volt and 120 Volt Electrical System Mastervolt Combi 2500 Inverter Charger – 2013 Mastervolt MMIC Power Management Package - 2013 Shore Power installation – 2013 Bass 110V AC Panel – 2013 Group 31 AGM House Battery Bank #3 at 345 AH – 2017 Group 31 Engine Start Battery #1 at 115 AH – 2017 Balmar 150 Amp Alternator – 2017

House Systems Sanitation hose – complete refit including check valves – 2013 New forward holding tank – 2016 New aft head pump assembly – 2020 New Fresh Water Head forward – 2018 New Shower Sump pumps – fore/aft – 2017 Fresh Water Deck Wash system with quick release fitting - 2016

New Spectra Ventura 150 Watermaker (8GPH) - 2015 New Spectra MPC Automatic control unit - 2015 Webasto Airtop 5500 Heating unit Marco UP/6E Variable Rate Fresh Water Pump – 2020 New Hot water system – engine and 110V – 2016 Seafrost Tradewinds 12V refrigeration compressor with discreet plate plumbing - 2014

Interior Replaced entire cabin sole. Sealed and varnished both sides – 2017 Bilges refit and gel coated – 2017 Aluminum mast step IBeam refit, recoated, painted - 2017 Keel bolt spring washer plates manufactured and installed - 2017 Limber holes cleaned and enlarged in stringers - 2017 New Shower pan in forward head – 2017 Major interior refinishing with rubbed effect varnish – 2017 New Interior Cushions – S & S Fabrics – 2020

Sails: (All Doyle unless otherwise noted) Main Sails 2015 DP BX25 Ocean Racing Main with upper adjustable batens 2012 Stratis Ocean Racing Main with upper adjustable battens 2007 Stratis racing main, Kevlar with taffeta both sides 2005 Dacron main – delivery and cruising (never used)

Head Sails 2018 Stratis Ocean 130% #2 with re-enforced luff at 100% rollup 2015 DP BX20 110% #3 with Roller Battens 2014 DP BX20 135% #2 2010 #3 with horizontal battens (brand new never used) 2009 155% Med – Hvy #1 genoa 2008 #4 high cut jib (roller furls) 2007 148% Kevlar roller furl genoa 2007 138% Kevlar genoa 2007 130% Kevlar genoa with taffeta 2006 148% jib top roller furl

Down Wind 2016 Windseeker 2010 Code Zero with Profurl Single line Furler 2010 Asymm re-paneled 2010 (UK) 2008 Asymm Runner with sock Assembly 2007 Symmetrical spinnaker (used less than 1 hour) 2007 130% wind seeker

Storm Sails 2006 Storm jib (orange) 2002 Storm Trysail Sail Handling Two Sail Covers – one for Lazy Jacks and one for Dutchman Dutchman Assembly BX25 Main – 2018 Lazy Jack Assembly three other Mains - 2012

Rigging New Standing Rod Rigging 2015 New Running Rigging – Halyards, Sheets, Car Lines, etc 2018-2020 Hall Carbon Fiber Mast completely refit at Hall/Bristol - 2015 Hall Boom and Rod Vang Goosenecks replaced - 2015 Complete mast and boom rig painted – 2016 Harken Mk III furling unit refit with new luff assembly 2015 Code Zero/ LRH custom stainless tack assembly on stem head - 2020 Selden removable sprit for Spinnaker Tack - 2015 New Shuster Rudder Bearings - 2013

Canvas New Dodger – S&S Fabrics - 2020 New Bimini - S&S Fabrics - 2020 New Cockpit Cover Connector - 2020 Racing Sprayhood – White Stamoid - 2015 Cabin Sole and Companionway Covers – Two Sets Sunbrella Boom Tent - 2012 Main Salon Table Cover - 2012 Cockpit Table Cover Canvas Bookshelf Enclosures – Port and Strbrd Main Salon - 2012

Hull, Deck and Topsides Deck completely ground down to eliminate cosmetic crazing and refinished with new gel coat sprayed on. See pics. Every port, hatch, and all deck hardware removed during this process – re-bedded – and refastened – 2013 Topsides painted and clear coated with Awlgrip and Awlcraft - 2014 - Stars and stripes blue Both large main deck hatches replaced – 2016 Bottom Stripped – faired – painted – 2016 (Vivid Petit white) Jim Taylor designed keel – 2009 Enhanced performance(removed 1000 lbs from the total weight) Bilges refit and gel-coated while cabin sole was out of the boat – 2017 Aluminum mast step IBeam refit, recoated, painted – 2017 (This was all cosmetic but easy to do when the cabin sole was removed) Keel bolt spring washer plates re-manufactured and re-installed - 2017 Limber holes cleaned and enlarged in stringers - 2017 Chainplates removed and re-bedded – 2014 New Lewmar Concept 2 Windlass – 2018 New Vulcan 15 anchor - 2018 Carbon wheel 2010

Machinery Yanmar 1000 hour service (valves, injectors, pumps, seals, etc.) 2018 New motor mounts 2018 Exhaust elbow boiled and serviced 2018 Shark Teeth line cutter on prop shaft 2015 Varifold 3 blade folding 18” prop – low drag – 2014 New Morse single lever control at pedestal - 2016 New Teflex throttle and transmission cables - 2016

Safety and Docking Equipment Fully ISAF compliant:

Fully ISAF/NBR offshore race compliant Two EPIRBs – one Mcmurdo 406 and one ACR Cat2 406 Four-Man Offshore Life raft Gale Rider Storm Drogue – ISAF/NBR Emergency Steering Compliance Fire Mat in the galley Electric horn on aft mast – Air Horn in the companionway Knife in a sheath at helm and mast Mom 8 on Stern Rail Handheld VHF with GPS and DSC Capability VHF with full DSC capability and Ram mic at helm Jack Lines with glow in the dark filament 6 – Mustang inflatable PFD’s with Harnesses and Tethers Throw Rope attached to the stern rail Two-piece companionway ISAF board with internal and external locking capability One-piece companionway Plexiglas companionway board Wooden plugs attached to all thru-hulls Two manual bilge pumps – one at the helm and one in aft head with handles attached Three fire extinguishers Orange Storm Jib with Sheets attached Orange Storm TrySail with Sheet attached and separate track on the mast Carbon fiber whisker pole with cover stores on stanchion bases Two 5/8” 30’ bow and stern lines Two 5/8” 40’ Spring lines Four spare 5/8” dock lines Three inflatable Avon fenders with covers and lines One horizontal large fender with lines

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2002 J Boats J/42 Technical Specs

General data about j boats j/42, engine and power specs, dimensions and wieght, detailed specifications, features and equipments, other equipments, j boats j/42.

• J Boats provided us with the latest version of its J/42 service repair manual
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• J/Boats Manuals
• Owner's manual

J/Boats 1997 J42 Owner's Manual

• Owner's manual (83 pages)
• Owner's manual (24 pages)
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Table of Contents

• Technical Data
• Commissioning Checklist
• Product Overview
• Steering System
• Sail Control System
• Mainsail Controls
• Jib Controls
• Optional Spinnaker Equipment
• Mainsheet and Traveler Diagram
• Running Rigging Diagram
• Reefing System Diagram
• Steering System Diagram
• Engine Drive Train, Cooling and Exhaust Systems
• Fuel System
• Seacock, Thru-Hull and Deck Fill Locations
• Head Layout and Discharge Schematic
• Hot and Cold Water System
• Battery System
• Mast Junction Box Wiring Diagram
• 12V DC Lighting System
• Optional Sea Frost Refrigeration System
• Optional 110V AC Systems
• Propane System Layout
• Bonding System Diagram
• Tuning the Rig
• Rigging the Boom
• Engine System
• Drive Train
• Stuffing Box
• Martec Propeller
• Engine Cooling System
• Exhaust System
• General Hints to Avoid Problems
• Engine Safety Precautions
• Starting the Engine
• Turning Engine off
• Fueling the Diesel Tank
• Engine Maintenance
• Boat Construction
• Construction Materials
• Production Control
• ABS Approved TIP Hull/Deck Joint
• Spars and Rigging
• Plumbing Systems
• Fresh Water System
• Pump Systems
• Head System
• DC Electrical System
• Optional 110 Volt AC Shorepower System
• Galley Stove LPG System
• Stove Operation
• When Cooking Is Complete
• Safety Information
• Lighting Protection
• Maintenance Tips
• Fibreglass/Gelcoat
• Deck Hardware/Running Rigging
• Deck Hatches
• Cabin Ports
• Stainless/Chrome
• Annual Maintenance Checklist
• Storage Tips
• Carbon Fiber Spars

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• Sailboat Guide

J/40 is a 39 ′ 11 ″ / 12.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Rod Johnstone and built by J Boats between 1984 and 1993.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Draft-wing keel: 5.40’/1.65m Shallow draft fin: 5.00’/1.52m

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• Sailboat Reviews

The right boat at the right time, the J/24 has proven to be a wildly successful one-design racer.

The J/24 is one of those boats that happened along at just the right time, with the right marketing to a ready market. Some may wonder whether the tale of her success would make a better textbook or a better storybook. Either way, much of the marine industry has studied her story, and then flattered her with the praise of emulation. However, no imitation or variation of the J/24 has yet to achieve her popularity.

Since her humble beginnings in 1976 in the garage of an amateur designer, thousands of boats have been sold from factories in Rhode Island, California, Australia, Japan, Italy, England, France, Brazil and Argentina. All of the builders are licensed by a company called J-Boats to build the J/24 to strict one-design tolerances. J-Boats is owned and run by two brothers—Bob and Rod Johnstone (the J in J-Boats).

Bob is the marketing whiz and Rod is the designer. Conservative estimates put their total revenue from the J/24, after buying the boats from the builders and selling them to the dealers, at several million dollars. Not bad considering how it all began….

Ragtime was a 24′ inspiration evolved by Rod Johnstone and his family in their garage as a two-year weekend project. Rod was a salesman for a marine publication, and an avid racer with a successful background in high-performance one designs. He had undertaken, but never completed, the Westlawn home-study course in naval architecture (although he has since been awarded an honorary degree so the school could use his name in its advertisements). Ragtime was launched in 1976, and was an instant winner, taking 17 firsts in 19 starts in eastern Connecticut. People began asking for their own boats.

At this time, brother Bob, also a respected racer, was working in the marketing department of AMF Alcort (Sunfish, Paceship, etc.). When Alcort declined to produce the J/24, Bob quit and formed JBoats. Tillotson-Pearson, builder of the Etchells 22 and the Freedom line of boats, was more receptive and production began in 1977. The first J/24s were as fast as Ragtime , and dominated regattas like the 1977 MORC Internationals. Bob made sure that the favorable results were well publicized; more than 200 boats were sold that year, and nearly 1,000 the next.

It was a big hit for a number of reasons. She moved into a void, appealing to two groups of sailors who were ripe for her type of racing: those who had outgrown athletic small boats, yet still yearned for the competition of one-design racing, and those who wished to compete without the expense, hassles and uncertainties of handicap racing.

The J/24 is a one design’s one design. Like the Laser, Windsurfer, and Hobie Cat, she is proprietary-built under the supervision of one company. Unlike most proprietary one designs, sails are not provided by the J/24’s builder. This was a particularly astute move by the Johnstones as it involved sailmakers in the class. Sailmakers comprise many of the big names in racing; by getting them in the regatta results, the Johnstones added instant credibility to the J/24’s budding status as a “hot” class. By the midwinter championship in 1979, almost every boat in the top 15 finishers had a sailmaker on board.

The big advantage that proprietary one designs have over “independent” one designs (classes with competing builders) is the power of centralized, bigbucks promotion. J-Boats has organized and promoted regattas, and had a heavy hand in running the class association. J/24s got a lot of press, thanks to JBoats. Full color, multi-page advertisements appeared monthly in the slick sailing magazines. Promotion has been primary; money is no object. J/24s have been donated for several high visibility USYRU championships. Big discounts have been given for fleet purchases (sometimes to effectively crush interest in competing one designs).

With the help of British enthusiasts, the Johnstones were able to make the J/24 an IYRU (International Yacht Racing Union) recognized class. More international lobbying got the J/24 into the Pan American Games.

There are some disadvantages to proprietary one designs. First, the class is in a real bind if the builder goes bankrupt. Likewise if the builder should ever abuse his power by ignoring class administration or changing construction of the boat to suit economic demands. Although a proprietary builder faces competition from other types of boats, there is no competition building his boat. This can inflate the price, especially when there are three substantial markups in the pricing structure (builder, J-Boats, and the dealer).

Construction

The J/24 has the distinct advantage of having been produced in great numbers and been subjected to the rigors of hard racing. It’s safe to say that nearly everything that could have broken, has broken, and that the J/24 is now almost bulletproof. J-Boats has done a commendable job in correcting nearly all of the “bugs” in the J/24. However, if you are planning to purchase a boat several years old you should be watchful for some of the old bugs.

Boats built during the first two years of production had particular problems with leaking along the hull-to-deck joint, delamination of the main bulkhead, and the attachment of the keel to the hull. The hull-to-deck leak was due to failure of the silicone sealant in the joint.

The inward-turning hull flange is overlapped by the deck, which is bedded in sealant and through-bolted at close intervals through a teak toe rail. Now this joint is bedded with 3M 5200, a pliable strong adhesive, and leaks are infrequent. Fortunately, the internal side of the joint is exposed throughout the boat’s interior, so recaulking is not difficult.

Harder to rectify is the problem of delamination of the main bulkhead. J/24s are raced hard, often with substantial rig tension. The chainplates pierce the deck and are bolted to the main bulkhead. The plywood bulkhead is tabbed with fiberglass to the hull and deck. The mast is stepped through the deck and sits on an aluminum beam, which is also tabbed to the main bulkhead. Rig tension pulls upward on the bulkhead while mast compression pushes downward on the beam, resulting in tremendous shearing forces on the bulkhead and its tabbing.

On some of the older J/24s, the plywood has delaminated, letting the mast “sink” 1/4 inch or more. Owners of these boats have either returned them to the factory for replacement of the bulkhead, or ground off the delamination and reglassed the bulkhead themselves. The builder now uses a better grade of plywood and installs screws to reinforce the bulkhead tabbing. As an added precaution, the boat owner may wish to bolt the mast-bearing beam to the bulkhead with an angle-iron.

The third problem with some of the older J/24s is the keel-to-hull attachment. The builder used to fill the keel sump with a vermiculite mixture of resin and plant fiber. The keel bolts were fastened through the vermiculite which, when saturated with water, is less rigid than solid laminations of fiberglass. After several years of sailing, or a hard grounding, the keel bolts would begin to work, and the keel would loosen enough to be able to be wobbled by hand with the boat suspended from a hoist. The first sign of this problem is the appearance of a crack along the keel stub. Tightening of the keel bolts, which are quality stainless steel, is a simple but temporary fix. What is needed is a backing plate for the bolts, bedded on top of the vermiculite.

There was a variety of other problems with early J/24s: The mast has three internal halyards; two jib halyards exit below the headstay with the spinnaker halyard above. On the older boats, a large square hole was cut in the mast to accommodate the sheaves, leaving an open, poorly supported space adjacent to the spinnaker sheave. This is sometimes the source of mast cracks; the fix is to weld a plate over it.

In January of 1980, the J/24 got much-improved companionway and forward hatches. The hatches on older boats were molded of thin fiberglass, and had a tendency to leak and fracture under the weight of heavy crew members. The new forward hatches are lexan, and the companionway hatch is now much heavier with a lower profile.

The J/24’s rudder is heavy and strong. The builder claims you can hang a 900 pound keel from the rudder tip without breaking it. Although the J/24’s rudder pintles appear more than adequate, after several years of use they have been known to develop corrosion cracks where the pintle is welded to its strap. In 1981, the builder began equipping J/24s with weldless pintles; the builder also offers the new system as a replacement for old boats.

The starboard chainplate bolts through both the bulkhead and the hull liner. The port chainplate bolts through only the bulkhead. After the first two years of production, the port bulkhead was reinforced with fiberglass in the chainplate area. On earlier boats, a backing plate should be added to prevent the chainplate bolts from elongating their holes.

The hull and deck of the J/24 are cored with balsa, which makes them stiff, light, quiet and relatively condensation-free. We have heard of occasional delaminations resulting from trailering with improperly adjusted poppets. The Kenyon mast section is the same as that used on the Etchells 22, a bigger boat. It is more than adequate for any strength of wind.

The J/24 does not have positive flotation, and she has been known to capsize in severe conditions. This is usually not a problem as she floats on her side with the companionway well out of the water. However, should the leeward cockpit locker fall open, water can rush below, filling the cabin and causing her to sink. While fastening the lockers in heavy weather prevents the problem, the manufacturer began to seal off the lockers from the cabin with an additional bulkhead several years ago, as a safety measure.

Of the 2,500 J/24s sold in the US, nearly 2,000 of them have been built by Tillotson-Pearson in Rhode Island. The others were built by Performance Sailcraft in San Francisco, which is now defunct. New boats are now shipped cross country. Top west coast sailors tell us they favor the east coast built boats, claiming the keels and rudders on the west coast built boats are too thick to be competitive. The west coast keels are thick because they are covered with injection-molded gelcoat. Tillotson-Pearson fairs the keels with auto body putty.

Handling Under Sail

The J/24’s PHRF rating ranges from 165 to 174, depending on the handicapper. She rates as fast as or faster than a C&C 30, Santana 30, or Pearson 30. One must remember that, because the J/24 has attracted competent owners, her PHRF rating is probably somewhat inflated. While the J/24 is an excellent training boat because she is so responsive, a beginning racer may have an especially hard time making her perform to her PHRF rating.

Aside from her speed, the J/24’s greatest asset is her maneuverability. With her stern hung rudder she can be turned in her own length, sculled out to a mooring in light air, and brought to a screeching halt by jamming the rudder over 90 degrees.

The J/24 has a narrow “groove;” it takes a lot of concentration to keep her going at top speed. She is sensitive to backstay trim, sheet tension, weight placement and lower shroud tension. The lower shrouds act like running backstays, because they are anchored aft of the mast. They must be loosened in light air to create some headstay sag, and then tightened in heavy air to straighten the mast, making backstay tension more effective in removing the sag.

Sheet tension is also critical. Top crews rarely cleat the genoa sheets, having one crewmember hold the tail while hiking from the rail. Some of the best sailors even lead the jib to the weather winch so the sail can be trimmed without sending crew weight to leeward.

The class rules allow you to race with a mainsail, a 150% genoa, a working jib and a single spinnaker. This makes sail selection simple and the inventory affordable (about $2,600 total). However, the one genoa must carry the boat all the way from a flat calm up to 20 knots or more. To be competitive in light air, the genoa must be full; yet to hold the boat level with this full genoa in a strong breeze, you need a lot of crew weight. Most of the top crews are now sailing with five people on board for a total crew weight of 800 to 900 pounds. The J/24 is a small boat, and the additional fifth crew member really makes the boat cramped. Add to this the increasing trend of some skippers making the crew sit in the cabin on the leeward bunk in light air, and you have a boat which can be less than fun to crew on.

There are two worthwhile improvements that can help a J/24’s performance. To decrease the boat’s slight tendency toward a lee helm in light air, the mast should be cut to minimum length allowed in the class rules, and the headstay should be lengthened to the maximum allowed to give the mast more rake. The other improvement is fairing the keel to minimum dimensions. The keel is much thicker than is necessary for optimum performance. It comes relatively fair from the builder, but most owners will want to grind off the builder’s auto-body filler and sharpen the trailing edge. On some of the older boats, the trailing edge is twice the minimum thickness.

Some racers go so far as to spend $500-$1,000 to have the keel professionally faired.

While all indications are that the builder has excellent quality control, there have been complaints that some of the spars provided by Kenyon in the last two years have come with the wrong length shrouds, or widely differing bend characteristics. One top sailor said he would never buy a used J/24 without first making sure that he could make the mast stand straight sideways with substantial shroud tension.

The J/24 is best suited for racing; there are many boats in her size range that are far more comfortable and practical for daysaiIing. However, the J/24 is a joy to sail under mainsail alone. Unlike most boats, she balances and sails upwind at a respectable speed, and her maneuverability gives her tremendous freedom in crowded harbors.

Handling Under Power

The J/24 is powered by an outboard engine; an inboard is not feasible or available. Class rules require that an outboard with a minimum of 3.5 hp be carried while racing. Most owners opt for a 3.5-4 hp outboard. It provides adequate power and is as much weight as you want to be hefting over a transom. Although the cockpit locker is plenty big enough, most owners stow the outboard under a berth in the cabin to keep the weight out of the stern. This makes using the outboard inconvenient. The factory-supplied optional outboard bracket has a spring-loaded hinge to lift the engine for easy mounting; we recommend it. Because the outboard is likely to be stored in the cabin, a remote gas tank will keep fuel spillage and odor to a minimum.

Above Decks

The J/24 is very well laid out, yet she is still not a comfortable or easy boat to crew on. When she was first launched, sailors said her layout could be no better, and she was copied by manufacturers of competing boats. However, after years of racing, sailors have discovered several things that could be improved.

Cockpit winches are located just forward of the mainsheet traveler, which spans the middle of the cockpit. Many sailors have moved the winches forward, so the crewmember tacking the genoa can face forward instead of aft during a tack. It pays to check to see if relocated deck hardware was installed properly; one J/24 owner we know discovered that the previous owner had moved the winches, but hadn’t installed proper backing plates or filled the original holes correctly. As a result, seepage had occurred and several square feet of the balsa-cored deck above the quarterberth had become sodden and rotten.

The standard mainsheet cleat is attached to the traveler car so that, when you trim the sheet, you inadvertently pull the car to weather. Many sailors have solved this by mounting a fixed cleat with a swivel base at the center of the traveler bar.

On older boats the backstay was single-ended at the transom. Boats now come with a double-ended backstay led forward to the helmsman on each side of the cockpit. Foot blocks need to be mounted on the traveler to keep helmsmen from falling to leeward as the boat heels (you must steer from forward and well outboard of the traveler).

For those who plan to try cross-sheeting to the weather winch, leading the jib sheets through Harken ratchet blocks is advised. Most sailors will also want to mount barber haulers to pull the genoa sheet outboard in strong winds. Cam cleats for the barber haulers should be mounted on the companionway so they “self-cleat” when led to the weather winch.

Cabin-top winches for the halyards and spinnaker guys are optional and essential. Because the J/24 has single spinnaker sheets, most sailors mount “twings,” which pull the guy down to the deck outboard of the shrouds when reaching.

In the search for a cleaner deck, it is now common to mount the spinnaker halyard cleat on the mast. Most sailors use only one jib halyard. Although a second jib halyard is optional, it is necessary only for long distance handicap racing. On short one design courses it is better to struggle along overpowered than to place crew weight on the bow to change headsails. Instruments are also unnecessary in one design racing. There are more than enough boats on a one design race course to judge your speed without the help of a speedometer.

The J/24 comes equipped with a Headfoil II grooved headstay system, which works very smoothly. Early boats came with Stern Twinstays, which have occasionally failed when the bearings freeze up with age. Some sailors have exchanged the grooved headstay system for cloth snaps on their headsails (you seldom change sails anyway). We applaud this idea, as it makes the sails more manageable in severe weather.

Although the flat decks are well suited for racing, the cockpit is less than comfortable for daysailing. There are no seat backs and the boom is dangerously low. Visibility with the deck-sweeping 150% genoa is terrible, and is often the cause of nightmarish collisions on crowded race courses. Lower life lines are optional and recommended for those with children, but they interfere with fast tacks when racing. The boom is rigged with a 4-to-1 vang, which is swiveled on the more recent J/24s to be adjustable from either rail on a windy spinnaker reach. The boom is also rigged with reef lines which exit through stoppers at the gooseneck.

Top sailors have discovered that the boat always sails better without a reef, which is a good thing, because the stoppers are both difficult to operate and have a history of slipping.

The interior is simple and functional. On most boats it is used for little more than sail storage. However, for a couple who enjoys roughing it, it could make for occasional weekend cruising. The first thing you notic below is the lack of headroom. You can sit in comfort, but to move about you must crawl.

The interior is finished off in bare white gelcoat. Early boats had coarse, non-skid gelcoat on the overhead. While this may have been more attractive than smooth gelcoat, it really did a number on elbows and bald heads. It also tended to collect dirt and mildew. Earlier through-bolted deck fittings were capped with acorn nuts. Now the nuts lie flush with the overhead—less pain when bumped.

A molded hull liner is used to form the two quarter berths, the cabin sole, and two lockers and a galley just aft of the main bulkhead. One locker is deep enough to serve as a wet locker for foul weather gear; the other is best used to store the rudiments of a meal. The galley consists of a sink with a hand pump. A small, two burner stove could be mounted in the small, removable “table” forward of the port quarter berth. The icebox, a large portable cooler made by Igloo, has a piece of teak glued to it and doubles as a companionway step. After a season or two of jumping on the ice chest, the lid disintegrates.

The forward V-berth, although divided by the mast, is still large and comfortable enough for a couple. The boat does not come equipped with a head. To avoid the extra drag of a through-hull fitting, portable heads are often used. We would rather use a cedar bucket—there simply isn’t enough space in the cabin of a J/24 to cohabitate with a portable head. If you plan to seriously race, you won’t want to load the boat’s lockers with cruising equipment. If you do cruise, it will probably be out of a duffel bag.

J/24: How Trailerable?

The J/24 is not launchable from a boat ramp, unless the ramp is steep, paved or of hard sand, and you use a long extender between the tongue of the trailer and your trailer hitch. Her 3,100 pounds (fully loaded) require a big, 8-cylinder vehicle to tow her. She is easily launched from a 2-ton hoist which can attach to a strap on her keel bolts. However, the hatch slides just far enough forward to allow the hoisting cable to clear it, so the hatch tends to get chewed by the cable.

The J/24 was originally designed to sail at a displacement of 2,800 pounds. The class minimum was later increased to 3,100. The original single axle trailer provide as a factory option was barely adequate for the intended, 2,800 pound boat, and totally inadequate for a fully loaded boat. Tales abound of blown tires and broken trailer welds. The factory now offers both a single and double axle trailer; we recommend the double axle.

If you want to seriously race a J/24, trailering is a necessity. Local fleets grow and shrink each year with the whims of their members, but national and regional regattas continue to attract many participants. Make no mistake, however; trailering is expensive.

The owning and maintenance of a big car, the gas and tolls of trailering, and the housing of crew are not cheap.

Conclusions

The appeal of the J/24 is as a racer. If you plan to do anything else, she is not for you. Although the J/24 is relatively easy to sail, she is very difficult to sail well. To many people, she represents a chance to compete in the big leagues; by traveling to major regattas you can sail against some of the best sailors in the country. However, the big leagues are tough—if you like to race with a pick-up crew and a hangover you’d also better be satisfied with finishing last.

One appeal of the J/24 is that, unlike many big league boats, you can always come home and sail because the boat has so big a following. There are enough boats to race it one-design almost anywhere; and in a pinch, there is always handicap racing. As long as you don’t want to travel, the boat is inexpensive to maintain.

Despite our effort to highlight every flaw that has appeared throughout the J/24’s evolution, we’d like to emphasize that she is more hardy than most boats of her type. Few boats can take the punishment that a J/24 gets during a season of racing and come through with so few scars. No racing boat will appreciate; but the J/24 can keep her value.

The dream boat with the fairy tale success story has turned out, after all, to be a rugged winner in the real world.

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The Bavaria 42 is a 42.58ft masthead sloop designed by J&J Design and built in fiberglass by Bavaria Yachts (GER) between 1998 and 2001.

The Bavaria 42 is a light sailboat which is a good performer. It is reasonably stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally small. There is a short water supply range.

Bavaria 42 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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What Is The ‘Oatzempic’ Challenge And Is It Legit For Weight Loss? Here’s What Dietitians Think

The trend involves oats, water, and lime juice.

What is Oatzempic, exactly? The name is a creative combo of “oats” and "Ozempic," the latter being the FDA-approved prescription injectable medication that was originally created to help people with type 2 diabetes , but is often prescribed off-label to treat obesity.

The Oatzempic trend has gained major traction on social media with TikTokers raving that the bev can help you lose up to 40 pounds in two months. However, anything that claims magic weight loss deserves a double-take. So, what does the Oatzempic challenge involve and can it actually help you lose weight? More importantly, is it safe? Ahead, experts break it down.

Meet the experts: Dina Peralta-Reich, MD , is an obesity medicine specialist and founder of New York Weight Wellness Medicine . Sara Reihm, RD , is a certified obesity and weight management registered dietitian at Orlando Health Center for Health Improvement .

What is the Oatzempic challenge?

Oatzempic is the latest social media trend that promises significant weight loss—upwards of 40 pounds in two months—by mixing oats with water and lime juice, says Sara Riehm, RD, a certified obesity and weight management dietitian at Orlando Health Center for Health Improvement. And, as the name suggests, the concoction is meant to act as an alternative to the popular weight loss medication Ozempic.

The so-called Oatzempic challenge guidelines vary, but some TikTokers recommend (remember, they are not experts!) using the Oatzempic drink as a meal replacement for breakfast every morning for 40 days. Others suggest sipping the oat-heavy drink every morning for at least a few weeks and up to two months.

However, the general consensus among Oatzempic drinkers is to consume the meal replacement at least once a day for more than one week, says Riehm.

Oatzempic Drink Recipe

The Oatzempic recipe varies on TikTok, but most people blend:

• 1 cup of water
• 1/2 half a cup of uncooked old-fashioned oats
• A squeeze of lime or lemon juice.

Some also add a dash of cinnamon to taste.

Can Oatzempic help you lose weight?

In theory, sure, Oatzempic could help you lose weight, says Riehm. “Oats are a great source of fiber and are therefore digested slower than other carbohydrate sources, so this keeps you feeling fuller for longer, which can help you avoid binges and make healthier choices during the rest of your day,” she says. The fiber and water in the mixture can also help eliminate extra water weight you may carry by regulating digestion, promoting regular bowel movements, and reducing constipation , she adds.

On top of that, if you typically have a high-calorie breakfast (like pastries or sugary cereal), you’ll likely consume fewer calories when drinking Oatzempic as a meal replacement, which may lead to a calorie deficit and eventual weight loss, says Dina Peralta-Reich, MD, an obesity medicine specialist and founder of New York Weight Wellness Medicine. Plus, Oatzempic is really just a ground-up bowl of oatmeal, and some research shows that consuming oats containing beta-glucan for 12 weeks can lead to reductions in body mass index (BMI), body fat, and waist-to-hip ratio.

That said, the significant weight loss this trend promises is unlikely due to drinking the Oatzempic beverage alone, since losing weight also relies on other factors such as activity levels, sleep, stress reduction , and maintaining an overall balanced lifestyle, says Riehm. Healthy weight loss is typically achieved the slow and steady, and anything that promises startling results should be taken with a grain of salt.

Is the Oatzempic challenge safe?

It depends. There aren’t necessarily adverse health effects that could come from the Oatzempic ingredients. So if you’re using Oatzempic as just a breakfast meal replacement , then yes, it can be safe, says Dr. Peralta-Reich. However, it is *not* safe to replace all meals with Oatzempic since the concoction doesn’t offer a complete nutrient profile or contain enough calories to sustain you in the long term, says Riehm. “It can certainly act as a complement to your daily intake but shouldn’t be your sole source of nutrition.”

Those with diabetes should also closely monitor their blood sugar levels when drinking Oatzempic since oats are high in carbohydrates , says Riehm. If you have a history of disordered eating habits, the trend should also be avoided, adds Dr. Peralta-Reich.

It’s also worth noting that rapid weight loss isn’t safe and is not something you want to induce without the guidance of a professional, says Riehm. Why? It can cause hormonal changes that decrease metabolism and increase hunger cues, ultimately leading to weight regain, she explains. As a general rule of thumb, losing one to two pounds per week is usually a safe bet for sustainable weight loss.

Andi Breitowich is a Chicago-based writer and graduate student at Northwestern Medill. She’s a mass consumer of social media and cares about women’s rights, holistic wellness, and non-stigmatizing reproductive care. As a former collegiate pole vaulter, she has a love for all things fitness and is currently obsessed with Peloton Tread workouts and hot yoga.  

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What are 10 Yoga Poses That Help Lose Weight?

If you’re new to doing yoga exercises and starting a weight loss journey, you might wonder, “Is yoga good for weight loss?” Though some people might think yoga only helps you relax and increase your flexibility, yoga, and weight loss are indeed connected.

The mindfulness aspect of yoga helps manage stress to curb emotional eating. The physical practice of yoga helps burn calories, increase muscle mass, and improve muscle tone. These mental and physical benefits help regular yoga practitioners lose weight. Eating a healthful, balanced diet is also essential for your overall health.

Yoga for Weight Loss

All movement helps you burn calories. When doing yoga for weight loss, consistency is key. You should do a minimum of three to four one-hour yoga sessions per week to gain muscle mass and lose weight.

Note: Always consult your physician or health care provider before starting a new diet or exercise plan.

Here are 10 of the best yoga poses to do to lose weight.

The plank pose, or Phalakasana improves shoulder and core strength. It also helps reduce abdominal fat, stretches the spine, strengthens your lower back muscles, and improves posture.

The side plank variation gives your arm muscles a rigorous workout as you balance your body weight on one side and raise your free arm into the air.

The chair pose or Utkatasana activates your entire body and boosts your metabolism, which helps you lose weight. It strengthens your core, legs, and glutes and improves stability and balance. As you generate body heat, this pose boosts calorie and fat burning.

Warrior I Pose

The longer you can hold the Warrior I pose — aka Virabhadrasana — the better the results. This powerhouse position tones multiple areas, including your glutes, thighs, legs, and arms. Also, if you tighten your abs as you hold it, this pose tones and flattens your belly. Plus, maintaining focus while you assume this stance increases your grit and determination. No wonder it’s called “warrior”!

Warrior II Pose

Warrior II or Virabhadrasana II strengthens your lower body, opens your hips, and improves your stamina and balance. When you engage your abdominal muscles, it strengthens your core. Like Warrior I, this easy pose offers big benefits.

Bridge Pose

The Bridge pose is also known as Setu Bandha Sarvangasana. This backbend stretches your abdomen, shoulders, and chest while it strengthens back muscles, glutes, ankles, and thighs. If you sit or slouch for prolonged periods, this position offers relief and improves posture. To help with weight loss, this pose also boosts your metabolism and improves digestion.

Upward-facing Dog Pose

The Upward-facing Dog pose, or Urdhva Mukha Svanasana, is a companion backbend to the Downward-facing Dog. It strengthens your wrists, arms, and back and provides constant slouching relief.

The position also strengthens abdominal muscles, burns belly fat, and boosts energy levels. As you breathe through the pose, it opens your lungs and heart, which improves oxygen flow throughout your body.

Downward-facing Dog Pose

Downward-Facing Dog is one of the most widely known yoga poses. Also called Adho Mukha Svanasana, this pose improves blood flow and digestion. Downward Dog helps reduce irritating bloating and gas, which are never pleasant when you’re trying to lose weight. The position also strengthens back muscles, improves posture, and helps alleviate back, neck, and shoulder pain.

Boat pose or Navasana promotes weight loss because it strengthens your core and stimulates your abdominal organs, which improves digestion and combats belly fat. In this pose, you bend your body into the shape of a boat. Holding the position increases body awareness, improves balance, boosts stamina, and speeds up your metabolism.

Also known as Bhujangasana, the Cobra pose stretches your abdominal muscles and helps trim belly fat. This popular yoga backbend engages your glutes, hamstrings, spinal extensors, upper back muscles, and triceps. It helps alleviate lower back pain and aids in correcting posture. You should avoid this pose if you are pregnant.

Cat-cow Pose

The Cat-cow pose, or Marjaryasana-Bitilasana stretches your back, spine, shoulders, and neck. Stretching these areas helps decrease back pain, improves posture, and aids in digestion. This pose lengthens and opens your chest, which improves your breathing capacity. It also helps relieve stress — which, in turn, can help curb emotional eating.

Overall, doing any of these yoga poses will help you burn calories, build muscle, and relieve stress — which can help you lose weight. Pairing these yoga poses with a healthful, nutritious diet can bolster your weight loss and wellness success.

©2024 The Sacramento Bee. Visit sacbee.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.

Lewis and Clark Riverboat craned into Missouri river

BISMARCK, N.D. (KFYR) - A massive crane lowered the Lewis and Clark Riverboat into the Missouri River this afternoon, which means another season of excursions is nearly here.

Lifting a riverboat comes with its share of challenges, and while the weather was a major obstacle this year, the sheer size and weight of the boat cannot be ignored.

Enter 154,000 pounds of counterweight to offset the weight of the boat: that’s what it takes to ensure the safety of the crane and its operators. So how much does the riverboat actually weigh?

“62 tons, I believe, is what the actual weight is on the certificate of inspection,” says Dennis Archambault, general manager of the Lewis and Clark Riverboat.

Now that the ferry is lowered and docked, riverboat employees will prepare for public cruises and private charters.

Cruises will begin Memorial Day weekend.

Copyright 2024 KFYR. All rights reserved.

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