w17 trimaran for sale

Welcome to our store

Item added to your cart

WR17 Trimaran Sailboat

Couldn't load pickup availability

The premier WindRider Trimaran is the most fun you’ll have on the water.

Down by the bay or out on the ocean, a WindRider 17 is your first-class ticket to fast and easy sailing. Enthusiasts of all ages and capabilities can rig and launch it. The mast weighs just 35 lbs for easy lifting, or can be raised with our exclusive pulley system (purchased separately). No more excuses… just get everyone together and get out there!

• Stable, comfortable ride holds up to 2 people in the cockpit and up to 3 on the trampolines
• Convenient storage anywhere: outside, moored, or on a beach or a trailer
• Nearly impossible to capsize

Purchase includes everything you need to sail:

• Seats and cushions
• Rotating mast and main sail
• Roller furling jib sail
• Built-in, hand-operated bilge pump
• 2 trampolines (one for each side of the main hull)
• All necessary rigging
• Hardware and control lines

The WindRider 17 gives you these standard WindRider features:

• Sporty styling that turns heads
• Hands-free, foot pedal steering
• Near-indestructibility

The most common accessories purchased with the WindRider 17 Trimaran are the trailer and motor mount. Additional recommended options include the reacher kit, windshield, mid-boom sheeting, center foot steering, lazy jack, and center-hand steering.

Subscribe to our emails

Be the first to know about new collections and exclusive offers.

• Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh.
• Opens in a new window.

March / April Issue No. 297  Preview Now

This is an ultra efficient, modern folding trimaran design with advanced features not found elsewhere. As WoodenBoat Magazine confirmed in their 2017 independent test report (WB#254), she is of uniquely easy construction, yet with sophisticated engineering and great looks; is easy handling and fast, yet dry and comfortable, and is more rough-water capable than most boats her size. Designed, as the ultimate fun boat for those of all ages who no longer want to hang over the rail and get soaked, by an experienced multihull sailor with over 70 years of small boat sailing and 40 years with multihulls. Be you 40 or 80, you will be thrilled (and feel secure) to sail this boat. Can be raced, day sailed or camp-cruised.The designer is proud to offer this boat in plywood as it’s still a superior material and one that is more environmentally green and recyclable than when 100% plastic. If well built and maintained, such boats can last 50 years or more. First boat has already sailed and camp-cruised nearly 2000 miles. The design is continuously supported by the well-qualified designer, through an encyclopedic website that is highly popular and appreciated worldwide for its FREE yet high quality multihull design information. Supported only by the sale of a few designs, the website offers help to all builders regardless of their design choice, so that well informed, quality information can be available to all.The W17 trimaran is now available as a plywood kit with all 17 sheets of plywood parts cut to size with CNC precision. Such kits are available in Australia, Europe (via UK) and from CLC Boats in the USA and all use quality marine plywood. Plans for assembly still come directly from the designer. Plans come complete with an richly illustrated manual of some 100 pages and the designer is only an email away if you have some unique question. Its all-round good looks, versatility and excellent performance is making this exciting boat popular world wide and plans have already sold to 33 countries. Yes, trimarans have 3 hulls and two beams to make but the work is straight forward and well explained and once completed you will own a boat that is admired by everyone who sees it. Compare and then get started .. as boat building is a wonderfully rewarding hobby that can teach you many things.

Design Specifications

Designer questionnaire at above website where plans can also be purchased .. see W17 Main Page

ACCESS TO EXPERIENCE

Subscribe today.

Publishing dynamic editorial content on boat design construction, and repair for more than 40 years.

1 YEAR SUBSCRIPTION (6 ISSUES)

Print $39.95, digital $28.00, print+digital $42.95, from plans & kits.

Almaguin 500

21' Runabout

From the community.

'66 Century Resorter 17

Mahogany inboard. New varnish & bottom paint. Newish 383 (500-hp). 50 mph. New upholstery.

1959 THOMPSON 17’ RUNABOUT – PRICED TO SELL!

Pre 1905 Warren Cole Adirondack Guideboat LOA 16′, 42″ beam

Restored in ME by Jonathan Minott (seen in WB "Launchings" July/Aug 2009).

Vintage Crosby Catboat - I Belong in a Museum

Partial restoration. Has rare Edson oscillating (worm) steering system.

Log in or Sign up

You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser .

W17 Trimaran?

Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by upchurchmr , Jan 15, 2017 .

upchurchmr Senior Member

I am interested in building a small Trimaran. 17' max length, because my garage is only 19 x 19. The W17 is one of the few home building tris I have seen that interests me. The SOR: 17' max (+ a few inches) Day sailing - no cabin. 1-2 persons Wide beam. Some foldup variation. Relatively large sail area. (I have a classic Tornado rig and a Hobie 16 rig) Greater than 100% ama volume - to fly the main hull. Most likely strip planked with glass. Possibly plywood, but I don't really like flat surfaces. No lifting foils - at least to start. The website: http://smalltridesign.com/W17/greybox/W17-Trimaran.html Obligatory picture: Is there another forum more likely to discuss this boat or other optional ones? Any building blogs? Besides on the W-17 website. FYI, others I have considered: Cross 18 (I have plans) Searunner 16, 18 (too heavy, I'd prefer not plywood, I don't like the folding mechanism) Smoot - various sizes. I'd prefer more sail carrying ability. Kurt Hughes - amazingly expensive plans Woods Strike 16 - I'd prefer not plywood, it has a smaller sail area IMHO. Now that I've shown you how picky I am, I'd appreciate any suggestions you have.  

Corley epoxy coated

I think you have covered the bases pretty well, there are no other small trimarans I can think of that fit your stated brief better than the W17.  

Doug Lord Flight Ready

W17 It appears that from what the designers says that the boat is not designed to fly the main hull-unless I missed something. If you want to fly the main hull using ama buoyancy alone you probably want an ama with total buoyancy around 200% or more-otherwise the immersed shape of the ama may be real draggy. Also, it would be beneficial to know the angle of heel of the boat when the main hull is just clear-there is wide variation in trimarans from about 10 degrees to over 26 degrees. There is a thread in multihulls that looks at this for various trimarans.......* A warning: from 100% on up especially when flying the main hull, the chance of a capsize/pitchpole goes way up and the extra buoyancy guarantees the boat will invert. * http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/multihulls/trimarans-angle-heel-main-hull-takeoff-39553.html  

Not the suggestion I wanted. The W17 is essentially a modified Cross 18 with a more primitive Piver ama (triangle with the tip cut off. The main hull is also more primitive than a Cross18 being a simple rectangular section. The rocker is much less in a more modern style.  

Doug, That is why I specified ama greater than 100% buoyancy. The picture I showed is the boat at its practical limit. The designer stated that the rear ama was unfaired so that when it caught a lot of water you would know when to back off the power. As you can see the main hull is not out of the water. So what is the magic of 200% vs 150%?  

Is the designer of the W17 willing to draw a larger float for you? He seems like a good sort so I'm sure he could help there. 200% gives more beam clearance when loaded. Kurt Hughes also has done some float designs for dragonfly trimarans like the 800 to get the volume up and give them better performance. I don't think Kurt's plans are that expensive for what you get have you considered his 16' model you could easily extend it a bit to meet your requirements and CM build method so not flat ply, $480 US doesn't seem too bad? He is happy to run some mods through on his stock plans to make them better fit your needs at a moderate cost as well. http://www.multihulldesigns.com/designs_stock/daysail/16_tri.htm Non foiling racing trimarans gradually evolved towards 300% floats but they are pretty bulky and you pay a weight penalty for that extra volume which means greater global loads and more sail area to keep things powered up. A friend of mine Andrew is having a 40' Shuttleworth trimaran built in the Phillipines with 300% floats and due to some clever design and chamfering by the design office they don't look too bad only betraying their bulk in the top view. Target weight in racing trim is 2.4 tonne with some cruising amenity and space onboard it seems positively palatial in there compared to an F40 trimaran. http://trimaranproject.blogspot.com.au/2016/08/new-shuttleworth-40-racercruiser.html  

I had an email conversation with the designer and he was not interested in alternatives. He was responsive to my questions which I appreciated. It would be easy enough to come up with an alternative ama for strip planking with a larger volume, I would just like both ama and main hull to be similar. Thanks for the info about your friends boat but 4.2 tonne is really out of range for me. Something more similar to your Kraken is what I need. But shorter.  

Vantage475T Adventure Trimarans

Not really ny other oprions When I was looking around for something max 4.75m I didn't find any other options. I want something for 1-2 light bodies but storage is a real problem locally with few options. The Weta was too small and expensive for me The Richard Woods Zeta again a bit small but liked it The Strike 15 not so keen on the shape really The Strike 16 as for 15 - not so keen on the shape and couldn't really find anything else. I contacted Richard and I actually got the Zest and 15 plans and he was very helpful in some back and forth but I decided they were not really suitable. I am now using my ISO dinghy as a test bed for a skiff trimaran at 4.75m long and looking forward to moving that forward (thread elsehwere in mutlihulls). There really is very little in this arena - the W17 would have been my choice otherwise but I can't park it easily where I am with that little bit of extra length. What is the weight of the standard W17 - can't seem to find any info on that?  

Vantage475T said: ↑ When I was looking around for something max 4.75m I didn't find any other options. I want something for 1-2 light bodies but storage is a real problem locally with few options. The Weta was too small and expensive for me The Richard Woods Zeta again a bit small but liked it The Strike 15 not so keen on the shape really The Strike 16 as for 15 - not so keen on the shape and couldn't really find anything else. I contacted Richard and I actually got the Zest and 15 plans and he was very helpful in some back and forth but I decided they were not really suitable. I am now using my ISO dinghy as a test bed for a skiff trimaran at 4.75m long and looking forward to moving that forward (thread elsehwere in mutlihulls). There really is very little in this arena - the W17 would have been my choice otherwise but I can't park it easily where I am with that little bit of extra length. What is the weight of the standard W17 - can't seem to find any info on that? Click to expand...

Thanks I missed that but I've also found now it in my original notes as 185kg. I am a complete tool. Weight wise we thought that was looking like more than we could easily get in and out of the water. Although we are both strong we are both light and we've struggled moving other heavier boats around easily on the land. A factor that would def put my wife off and make it less likely to use it a lot. Currently the ISO is about 100kg hull - not sure of all up weight. Taking the 20kg float off makes it fine, with one float on as much we want to shift I think. I am just lashing up a prototype hub powered electric dolly contraption that we can use to drag the boat around hopefully. The plan is to be able to use it for the boat and also use it for wheelbarrows in the garden when my neck/backhands aren't working. May well be a pile of ***** but is worth a morning welding up some scrap steel tube.  

Bump, just hoping someone sees this and has a suggestion.  

Stumble Senior Member

If moving the weight around is an issue then don't hamper the design, just get better beach wheels. A four wheel set of CatTrax would make a 175kg boat trivial to move.  

No the issue is having a design to my SOR - primarily not using plywood instead of strip planked. Or at least having a design that has a nice smoothly curved shape. I fully expect to use a trailer to launch.  

W17 designer Senior Member

upchurchmr said: ↑ Not the suggestion I wanted. The W17 is essentially a modified Cross 18 with a more primitive Piver ama (triangle with the tip cut off. The main hull is also more primitive than a Cross18 being a simple rectangular section. The rocker is much less in a more modern style. Click to expand...

• Advertisement:

Thanks for your comment. But, its really interesting that "By copying round bilge design with multichines, one is adding complexity that is often not justified and the result will never be as good as the rounded original." So multichine is not as good as round. I had a conversation with you previously and stated the same thing. Interesting that you defended the square section chine hull, when your "proposed" bigger boat was round bilged. How then can single chine (square) be better than round bilge. Please note that I mean performance as related to "better". There are lots of other criteria that might be appropriate. How come the larger boat uses round bilge and is not the "improved shape" - the square section? There certainly are other boats using square section like Richard Woods small trimarans, and the small Seaclipper boats. Looking forward to your reasons why the square section is "better". I would have been interested in your discussion 3 years ago when I asked. I would remind you that I asked if you would revise the lines to a round hull for me. Come now - total redesign required for flying the main hull with 2? Like most things (improvements?) it is just an incremental increase in the loads. A Cross 18 has been reported to fly the main hull just fine, its a lot more simple than the W17 design. The limited beam means this might not really provide much performance improvement. What would the critical feature on the W17 be? The hinge bolts, or bearing of the bolts on the hinge plate, or hinge plate to wood ama, or the wood? I actually would not suggest the Cross 18 is better than the W17. Individual boats - especially homebuilt- vary so much in construction and equipment I don't really know how you could ever make a meaningful comparison on the water. Not to talk about the differences in how boats are sailed depending up on the owner. There is a recent youtube about a Cross 18 in the Texas 200, where the main is always reefed when clearly not overloaded by windspeed - everyone has their preferences. Looking forward to your article.  

Small trailable sailing trimaran used in various bodies of water

Power Trimaran vs Power Catamaran efficiency

Deadrise of trimaran

26' power trimaran, trawler style family boat

Jurmo Trimaran 1970

10m LOA Electric Powered Trimaran for Flatwater

Determine the draft of the hull (trimaran sailboat)

Solar Trimaran concept - please review.

Foil design for my motor trimaran

Trimaran Objectif Rhum 39

• No, create an account now.
• Yes, my password is:
• Forgot your password?

I want to get mails about Recently added "windrider 17 trimaran" ads.

I agree with the Terms of use and Terms of Privacy .

Publication date

• Last 15 Days
• Most popular
• Most recent added
• Lower price

Price (min)

• 100.000 USD
• 125.000 USD
• 150.000 USD
• 175.000 USD
• 200.000 USD
• 225.000 USD
• 250.000 USD
• 275.000 USD
• 300.000 USD
• 350.000 USD
• 400.000 USD
• 450.000 USD
• 500.000 USD
• 600.000 USD
• 700.000 USD
• 800.000 USD
• 900.000 USD
• 1.000.000 USD
• 1.100.000 USD
• 1.300.000 USD
• 1.500.000 USD
• 1.700.000 USD
• 2.000.000 USD
• 2.500.000 USD

Price (max)

Hull Material

Length (min)

Length (max)

windrider 17 trimaran for sale

• windrider 17 trimaran

2011 Windrider Trimaran sailboat for sale in Florida

Windrider trimaran.

Contact Bruce at ThreeTwoOne SevenNineFive NineNineNineEight Boat is located in Palm Bay, Florida. For sale Trimaran Windrider17. Year - 2011....

2003 WindRider 17 Trimaran sailboat for sale in California

Windrider 17 trimaran.

- Fully-battened main sail on a rotating mast - Roller-furling jib for total control - Telescoping hull beams for easy setup and trailering - Trampolines between...

2007 Windrider 17 Trimaran sailboat for sale in Florida

New mainsail, new trampolines, new rudder, Like new.

2003 WindRider W17 Trimaran sailboat for sale in Georgia

Windrider w17 trimaran.

2003 Wind Rider W17 Trimaran . Serial #WKY12103. "Long" Galvanized Trailer. 2 trampolines. Standing and running gear is in great working shape....

2015 Windrider Windrider 17 Trimaran sailboat for sale in North Carolina

Windrider 17 trimaran in excellent shape. 2015 WR17 trailer, WR motor mount, 2020 Minnkota electric motor with...

2003 Windrider Windrider 17 sailboat for sale in Colorado

Windrider windrider 17.

Great Trailable Trimaran that "checks all the boxes", easily sailed by amateur or professional, have had 3 adults & 3 children onboard & still gets...

WindRider 17

Windrider 17.

Flitzer mit Spaßgarantie für die ganze FamilieDer " WindRider 17 " ist das vielseitigste Mitglied der schnittigen WindRider ...

2017 Windrider 17 sailboat for sale in Florida

Windrider 17 Trimaran in great condition sails in good condition motor mount good trailer good tramps factory...

2005 Windrider Windrider 17 sailboat for sale in Texas

Windrider 17 Trimaran ready to sail or trailer anywhere. A well loved boat, lots of fun. Call three six one 993...

2000 Windrider Rave sailboat for sale in Florida

Windrider rave.

Windrider Rave foiling trimaran . All in very good condition. includes bow sprit with roller furled screacher, adjustable trim tab...

2016 WindRider WR17 sailboat for sale in Alabama

Windrider wr17.

2016 WindRider 17 trimaran - good condition, It has lots of upgrades, is very stable, and very fast. Mainsail...

windrider trimaran sails only sailboat for sale in Nevada

Windrider trimaran sails only.

Have already sold the boat MUST COME TO PICK UP SAILS - WILL NOT SHIP!!!!! turbo main for either a windrider rave or 17 ' windrider also have 2 latene sails - good for any small boat - had used on hobie outback

2018 Nickels Boat Works Windrider 17 sailboat for sale in Florida

Nickels boat works windrider 17.

Windrider 17 is a fast daysailer trimaran , designed by Jim Brown, that is so stable it is classified as nearly...

1998 Windrider Rave sailboat for sale in California

Windrider Rave Trimaran bought new in 1998. Sailed for only 2 years. Main and jib in perfect condition. Trimaran trailer. Trailer not registered. Serious hyrdrofoil boat goes 1.6 times windspeed. As fast as a windsurfer or jetski! Serious enquires only. Boat and trailer.

Related Searches "windrider 17 trimaran" :

The information we receive from advertisement sites may vary. Therefore, when you go to the listing site, you may not always find the same offer that you see on waa2.

• Add Your Listing   
• Terms of Privacy   
• Terms of use   
• About   

Popular Sailboat Models

• Bavaria Cruiser 46
• Fountaine Pajot Saona 47
• Beneteau Oceanis 45
• Beneteau 50
• Catalina 30

Popular Powerboat Models

• Sea Doo Speedster
• Sea Ray Sundancer 320
• Bayliner Vr5
• Beneteau Antares 11
• Malibu Wakesetter 23 Lsv
• Boston Whaler 170 Montauk
• Princess V65
• Jeanneau Nc 1095

Feedback! ▼

Waa2 login to your account, register for free, forgot password.

Would you also like to receive alerts for these other related searches?

2003 windrider 17 trimaran

trimaran windrider 16

windrider 16 trimaran

windrider 17

windrider 17 jib

2003 windrider 17

Waa2 uses our own and third-party cookies to improve your user experience, enhance our services, and to analyze your browsing data in order to show you relevant advertisements. By continuing browsing please note you are accepting this policy. You are free to change the settings or get more information here >>> OK

What is it like to sail a W17 trimaran for the first time ?

As I have been asked this question quite often, here is what I can say, based both on the reactions of those who write in and the 50 or so whom I have personally taken out on my boat ‘ Magic’ for the first time.

But let me first put things in perspective by saying this…

 ‘it definitely depends on what you have sailed before’.  But let's start by assuming it's mostly monos.

I was actually reminded of some of the different things myself of late, when returning to ‘Magic’ after losing access to her for over 2 years during the Covid shutdown of the US border.   Sailing her again did remind me of the many differences with all other boats I have sailed.

Here is Merlin , a sister ship to Magic . finely and proudly built by Jim in Mass, USA though she now often sails on the Eggemoggin Reach in Maine.

Getting into the boat from standing in a few inches of water, typically involves either stepping up on to the ama deck, or if less athletic, sitting on the deck and then swinging your legs around to the trampoline, from where you can stand up to walk to the cockpit after ducking under the shroud bridle which also serves as a handgrip.   The ama drops about 60-70mm when you sit on it, as it starts off barely kissing the water so needs to pick up enough buoyancy to take your weight.

Once in the central cockpit, although it feels (and is) very secure, the boat might feel ‘a little nervous’, (not unlike Santa , a thoroughbred horse I rode when I was 16, just ‘eager to get going’;) .   This feeling applies to all small light trimarans under 8m that have their amas just kissing the water when level.   It’s a natural reaction that the boat wants to lay either to port or to starboard, with that perfect balance in the center being very hard to maintain.  For example, if I place my daggerboard on one tramp the boat drops 50 mm that side.  If I move it over, it’s now 50mm down the other side, so that’s where ‘the nervousness’ comes in.  It’s a small movement but it happens immediately and can be initially unsettling as it is very quick  With some trimarans that have their amas relatively very high (like the Buccaneer 24’s etc) this motion is even more severe and exaggerated, with the amas now dropping as much as 150mm or more to each side.  While there is totally no danger to this, it can throw one off balance until you adapt.  Being on a Buccaneer 24 at anchor when a motorboat goes by, you definitely need to hold on or sit down … and quick too !

Many Farrier designs (and larger cruising boats) have reduced this by placing their amas initially further down, but there is a performance price to pay for this as the weather ama will now hit more wave tops at its lower sailing angle.  You just have to accept the geometric choice of the designer.  (Even the Crowther choice for his Buccaneer had reasons and one was that it allowed the boat to heel more – almost like a mono, permitting gusts to escape off the peak of the sail so reducing risk of capsize.  But with that comes a loss of power, aside from the wild 'flip-flop' at anchor.

If you are a heavy person and plonk yourself down aft, expect to see the self draining cockpit take in a little water.  It’s only about 50mm above the loaded waterline so you need to sit farther forward until you are sailing fast downwind, when the stern will pick up dynamic lift and support more weight.

As virtually ALL the weight on a small but efficient trimaran is carried on just ONE slim central hull, it does sink faster than on most other boat types, so trimming the boat to keep the cockpit floor just slightly pitched-down aft is needed to keep the floor dry.   But unless the boat is built much overweight or heavily overloaded, it’s never an issue when sailing.   Just don’t wear those fancy leather moccasins sold as ‘sailing shoes’.  They are best reserved for the bar on the Commodore’s yacht ;-) 

(I have found moulded ‘Crocks’ to be great on a small boat as they protect your feet on rough stones but also drain and dry out fast).

The skipper/owner will drop the rudder, set the downhaul into the auto-release kickup cleat, and then slip in the pivoting daggerboard about ½ way.  If it is shallow, it can just hang from shockcord on a hook at the mast base, so that it does not go lower than needed. 

Here, please accept that I digress off-subject for a moment as its critical in understanding the very different design base that the W17 comes from.

With ‘the sweetly rounded hulls’ that most sailors and many designers still consider the ultimate in form, comes the need for super-efficient foils to give good upwind performance.    You all know how essential these are when going to windward.   Pull it up (or out) and your ‘sweetly rounded form’ becomes a lost dog, with no sense of direction or tracking …. quickly turning off line, side slipping extensively and making the rudder near useless.   We all know the feeling. 

But the W17 is a very different boat, with a very different design root.    After 70 years of designing small boats and testing them to learn more, I am no longer convinced that ‘ the sweetly rounded form’ IS primarily the best one.  Sure, in low winds and speeds the low wetted surface will pay off, but in the critical range we mostly sail in (5-15k), low wave making and low leeway can be King.   So think for a moment how the water sees the boat, when sails are trying to push her sideways.  With the traditional sweetly rounded form  “it’s pretty easy to do!” as the water is often quite free to flow sideways under the hulls  …. so now, EVERYTHING is hanging on the efficiency of the foils to prevent that from happening.

But on the W17, those straight-as-possible chines treat flow like low resistant fore-and-aft arrows, but they are ‘tigers’ at resisting sideways slip … so when you are sailing a W17 upwind, you can actually whip out the complete daggerboard without the boat going into the chaotic spin that a sweetly rounded hull boat hull with give you.  The W17 will just keep ‘tracking away’ as at least ½ the total leeway resistance is designed into the two hulls and will always be there.   Don’t believe me? … go sail a W17 upwind, choppy or not, and you will learn something about hull design.   Rounded hulls often evolve into Vee’d hulls with the thought that 'wave parting' will be better ... but for aspects like wave resistance, pitching and dryness, this is about the worst  shape from my 75 years of sailing experience, so perhaps it’s time to start looking at boat hulls from the perspective of each water particle … which is really how the W17 got its unique shapes.   

OK – enough of this … but as it’s something you WILL notice when you first sail a W17, I think you should understand the ‘WHY’ & ‘HOW’.   There’s more on this in Published Articles on my website.

But back to getting the boat rigged. The skip then hauls up the mainsail.  

Although quite large and with 6 full length battens it’s fairly heavy, it still goes up the mast slot pretty easily and looks quite imposing to the first-time viewer.  Many builders have a small snubbing winch to take up the halyard slack while the halyard is ‘sweated up’ while comfortably sitting on the main beam at the forward starboard corner of the cockpit.  (A solid wood or nylon hook to pass the halyard under can work OK too).   Once up, the Cunningham is hooked-in and tensioned plus the mast tiller is cleated to the boom with the appropriate slack for the wind conditions.   Tighter to the boom for high winds.

The foresail is on a permanent furler, so extremely easy to release the furling line and pull out the sail when ready, via its 2-part sheets.

Typically, depending on the wind, a knowledgeable skipper will assign you a position very far forward in the cockpit, to leeward if light wind, or to windward if 12kts or more (that’s when you start to see a few white crests).

At my place, the first 2 or 3 boat lengths has little or no prevailing (south) wind, but one soon finds it.   This is where I and other owners can have a little fun.  You, the first time guest are taking in all the new feelings, wondering what is next.  Meanwhile the skip has sheeted in the main a little and with very little heel, the silent acceleration from the shore goes unnoticed until less than 50 secs later, the skip says, “see where we just came from ?”     You glance back at the shore and instead of it being the expected 100ft away … you see it’s more like 400 ft ! ..  so it’s then you first think to yourself, ”oh boy, this IS different, and this is going to be fun!”

As you slice out to windward, the quiet and ease of the boat through the waves will surprise you.  Your eyes are directed to the bow of the leeward ama as the skipper watches this a lot to judge his stability reserve.  “Keep 50mm average freeboard at the bow and there’s no risk of capsize” the skip tells you.   He may also point out a small marker that’s 110mm above the keel line at the bow.  “A good trim upwind is to keep that marker at the waterline, so that the bow mostly stays well under” . 

Here, I must digress once again, as many do not seem to understand this.  When a boat (or ship) hull is pushed through the water, it HAS to push apart the water particles in its way and then allow them to close in again, all with the least disturbance if you want the lowest drag (or best speed).  My 40 years work on ships and even submarine design often gave me access to tank test results and as these are conducted with models in the 12-20ft range, they are a perfect scale for directly relating to small boats.   For ships, large bulbous noses underwater proved to lower resistance so significantly that now well over 50% of all trans-ocean liners, tankers, container ships etc now have one.   By dividing the water well below the surface, they create a negative surface wave that reduces the normal bow wave by a very significant percentage and also, the displacement added there by the deep underwater bulb, gives less resistance than if it were at the waterline. Of course there is more to it than that, but this gives the general idea that the lower you can get that narrow bow into the water, the resistance created is LESS than it would be if you left it at the surface, as all resistance at the surface where energy is wasted creating waves and white water (foam), carries a high penalty.   The boat that passes through or over water and disturbs it the least , will likely have the lowest resistance.   This is why vertical sides make the least wave … and heavily vee’d ones make the most. Once you start making surface waves, they froth at the top and this becomes spray that is light enough to be blown back over your boat and crew.  If your hull is vee’d, this wave is likely to be higher, wasting much energy pushing water out sideways and making the spray worse … with your boat correspondingly wetter.  Vee’d forward bows also encourage cyclic pitching, whereas vertical sides do not.   ALL these factors are taken into account with the design of the W17, so expect a remarkably dry boat with a quiet, slippery ride upwind, despite its small size.  Even large sailboats with $10,000’s being spent to win races sometimes ignore these design basics.  Just look at this 52 footer, with a huge crew ..,. but all WAY too far aft for good efficient bow immersion. Move them all forward even 30% of the boat length and you’ll likely see ½ to 1 knot speed increase upwind that would not cost a dime.

But just look at this mono and the surface water its churning up!   An extreme example I admit, but covers my point re ...  visual waste of energy at the water surface interface.                                                  On board the W17, you are free to move fro m the cockpit seat up onto the cockpit boxes where you might see better.  Either way, you do not need to be hanging over the edge to stay upright … that leeward ama is providing all the stability needed and, “it’s applied automatically as required” .  That’s the magic of a good trimaran … "stability to order”.      When the tall sail tries to lever the boat over, this immerses more of the ama that then opposes the heel ... very different from a mono that can only move its buoyancy out a few inches, with the rest of the stabilizing needing to come either from body weight hanging over the windward rail or a heavily weighted keel that only has leverage when the boat IS significantly heeled.

Rather than reef early when the wind is stronger, bot h the skip and the crew can slide out on to the windward ama … that’s like both now being on trapezes except you are still sitting comfortably with no risk of falling in the water.   Also, standing up on an ama and flying 500mm above the waves is also a special thrill, like smoothly riding on an airplane wing.    These boats are easily and best-equipped with two long 2m tiller extensions of lightweight PVC, one on each side of the boat, that allow the skipper to sit and steer the boat even from the forward beam when sailing alone.   No need to detail here, but this boat has a multitude of places to sit and be comfortable .. ideal for the aging body that needs to move around every 30 minutes to not feel cramps ;)   Just check out this collection by trimaran enthusiast Norwegian Blog creator Erik Klepsvik, and don't be afraid to try them out if the wind is moderate.  Just remember that a trimaran should always be trimmed to sail on just two hulls .... generally with the windward ama OUT  .. and is most efficient upwind with weight forward.   So place your weight to advantage but explore the options depicted here.  For some reason, ladies just love to lounge on the tramps ;)

  https://www.klepsvik.info/on-board-W17

When the W17 is sailed in steep one metre high waves, sometimes the bow will pick up the cap of one and throw it back into the cockpit.  It’s rare, but it can happen. But unlike a regular cruising dinghy there is no panic to bail it out due to risk of being swamped, as the cockpit is totally self-draining so it’s gone in seconds.  This is also a great feature for when the boat is left out in the rain …  no need to get to it quickly for fear it might sink as on many monohulls … it just self-drains .... all day, all night, all month.

While sailing upwind, if the scenery so permits, the skip may suggest to keep an eye on an approaching shore with landmarks behind it.  With this, you can see the leeway you are making … or in the case of the W17, very little leeway at all !

Here is when the Skip might pull the little joke mentioned earlier. A W17 skip might say, ‘ check our course ahead, and then watch this’ , and he may just pull the daggerboard fully out while heading upwind!

On a monohull, this would be a disaster as steering control would just disappear and the boat would start losing ground upwind at a serious pace. But with the W17, the hull forms give more than ½ the total side resistance so you can even make progress upwind in just 60cm of water .. just enough for the small spade rudder that is efficiently tucked away under the hull aft.  Because its location is free of cavitation, it can be shallower than normal, so reducing the required water depth for sailing down to less than 2ft.

At this point, if conditions permit, the skip may say … swap places with me and try the helm .     Another shock is how light the helm feels.   Typically most monos carry weather helm, very strong on some too ..  and this means that steering is a question of mostly pulling , either more or less.   Can be pretty tiring.

The W17 does not need weather helm and I do not want the boat rounding up if I let go the tiller.  There is enough stability to handle whatever puff comes your way, so I want to tack only when I decide.    Also, constant weather helm means there will be added drag from the angled rudder and we don’t need that either. But the lightness will need adjusting-to on your first sail ;-)

Tacking may be a little different too.  If you came from a monohull, tacking may not seem as positive until you adopt a new technique, but if you came from a catamaran, you will probably find she tacks better than your cat.   With at least 2 (if not 3) hulls in the water, all designed to go ‘straight’ as easy as possible. it’s normal that turning will be a little slower.  So it pays to release but still hold on to the leeward jib sheet for 2-3 seconds, until you see the wind on the backside of the jib and then you let go.   You can release very soon in light winds, but hold that sheet a little longer in waves.    Personally, I ease the main, push down the tiller and then facing forward, I totally concentrate on the two jib sheets. Once the new leeward side is tightly sheeted, only then do I go back to the main and pull it in again.    (Learning to tack on just 2 hulls and without jib backing is an art ... but its quicker once learnt, as jib backing does unavoidably act as a slight brake).

If it’s a strong wind day for your first ride .. let’s hope the owner has and uses a storm mainsail.  This will amaze you.  Together with the rotating wingmast, this makes a VERY efficient rig as the mast is now more like 1/5 th of the full sail chord, instead of less than 1/10 th with the regular full main … and wingmasts do not flog ;)

With this storm mainsail, tests have shown the W17 can achieve up to 90% of the speed of the full main, but in windier and rougher conditions.  Because the W17 hulls can slice through waves, this sail drive is put to good use and can drive the boat upwind in surprising form.  Far more efficient than with a sail that’s too large and is flogging and lifting …  and will have demonstrable less drag from both the rig and the hulls, that will also be surprisingly quiet and dry considering the wave conditions you may then be in.     So if the W17 you are to try out has a storm mainsail in its wardrobe … persuade the owner to hoist it instead of reefing the main.  It's really a fun experience .... and safer too.

I actually found it interesting that after I returned to sail Magic  (after 2.5 years with her 'the wrong side of the US border' due to Covid) that I was not very focussed or co-ordinated (and now 2.5 years older).  Sure enough, I got caught with a surprise gust and was just not in the right mindset to react promptly.  But  Magic did exactly what she was designed to do, and I saw that 'water geyser' at the rear beam for the first time since we intentionally tested the concept.    She slowed right down and gave me ample time to collect my thoughts.   "Great, this really does work" I mused.

                                  [to be open about this, it works best when going up against the waves.                                           Downwind, the boat-to-wave impact will naturally be much less]

So ...  after you finally DO get to sail a W17, please write in with your experience and tell me how you found things.    I think the most common comment I hear is,  ' amazingly smooth', but quiet, fast, efficient  and  dry a re all not far behind.    I am quite ready to add to or edit this article to best reflect the conclusion of all.

Cheers, and have a happy inauguration in a W17, whenever you get the chance.

PS:   Perhaps you think an article by the designer on this subject is surely biased.    That's quite  understandable even if I always try to stay with facts that I can prove.  So perhaps you'd like to read the comments of other sailors who wrote in way before i wrote this article.  If so, check these out here starting in 2011.     Without the same design background, I'd say they were sensing just what this article describes.

PLease also keep in mind, that while most of the above 'first trip' describes the effect of the hull shapes and overall design, there are 70 years of small-boat sailing experience behind the  many added details on a W17 that also make this boat so unique.    Here is a quick summary of the first 'lucky 13' .  

From the rear, there is the underhull spade rudder on a very strong mount that still easily kicks up; a large rear locker with a neat, pop out storage for dropping in your GPS, cellphone, duct tape, adustable wrench, maps etc etc .. that is balanced to flip shut with a quick touch; a 2.2m wide-arc'd mainsheet track for improved mainsail trim; instant mainsheet release with a single tug; a 7ft long cockpit to lounge in with 6 storage pockets and multiple sitting and sailing positions; a pivoting daggerboard that never bangs hard if you touch the bottom; a hidden water trap to reduce waves coming up the daggerboard trunk; an adjustable wingmast that firmly controls the most critical forward 10% of your mainsail with highly-efficient results upwind; a roller boom that makes short work of storing the efficient high-aspect mainsail; a large forward deck hatch for access to stored boat/camping gear with a shelf to hold a good size icebox, bow spray nets that absorb & deflect most wave tops; a roller-furled foresail for quick furling and unfurling; and a bowsprit to set the downwind sails with good spacing from the foresail.   

The boat is already widely supported by many articles on this website and a Series on Camping will be added as experience and info becomes available.   This is the ideal boat for happy retirement sailing without giving up the zip and efficiency you once appreciated in a racing dinghy.  With 'stability to order' , you can sail this boat into the sunset even if you are 90+ ... and pass most of the younger (wetter) crews in traditional boats at the same time ;)

==========================================================================================

Copyright mjw- 2022-2023

"New articles, comments and references will be added periodically as new questions are answered and other info comes in relative to this subject, so you're invited to revisit and participate." —webmaster

Moscow Muled

Best virgin moscow mule recipe.

Nov 30, 2019

Wherever there are great cocktail recipes, there are equally fabulous mocktail recipes for those of us who enjoy all the style and taste of cocktails without liquor. In this post, we reveal the best recipe for the Virgin Moscow Mule on the internet! Let's get started!

Introduction

A cocktail is essentially a blend of two or more ingredients of which at least one is alcoholic. As of late, cocktails are getting more inventive with upwards of four and five ingredients.

The Moscow Mule keeps it classically simple with only three ingredients that most of us already have at home. Vodka, ginger beer, and lime juice.

The intense burn of the ginger beer blended with the refreshing sourness of lime juice delights the palate and warms you right up from the first sip.

There are a multitude of practical reasons for choosing a mocktail over a cocktail.

This could include health concerns and diet practices. Or, maybe you're the designated driver and don't want to miss out on a fun night with your social group.

Whatever the reason, mocktails make sure no one is left out.

Most will say that a mocktail is simply a recipe for any cocktail sans the alcoholic ingredient(s), but we're going to show you fantastic ways to enjoy a Virgin Moscow Mule without sacrificing flavor or taste.

Ingredients:

• Sparkling Water 
• Fresh limes 
• Ginger beer 
• Simple syrup

Instructions:

• You can either muddle a couple of fresh limes or use freshly squeezed lime juice. We won't tell if you decide to do both ;)
• Next, combine your favorite sparkling water and a splash of ginger beer
• Add a serving of simple syrup (1 part water, 1 part sugar)
• Stir. If you have a shaker on hand, you can also shake the combined ingredients together, but be cautious when pouring as the turbulence may have created a little extra fizz from the sparkling water.
• Pour over ice

With this excellent non-alcoholic version of the Moscow Mule, you can have guilt-free seconds or even thirds!

Health Benefits

Typically, in every 6 oz serving of the traditional Moscow Mule cocktail there are approximately 180 to 200 calories.

One fantastic upside of making a Moscow Mule mocktail is that with the extraction of vodka (say 1.5 oz) you can eliminate around 96 calories, meaning that a typical 6 oz serving is approximately 100 calories or less!

Layers of Flavors

Now that we've laid the foundations, it's time to explore the variations and wonderful layers we can add to perfect our Virgin Moscow Mule.  With these alterations, your mocktails are sure to be enjoyed by all!

In addition to following the preparation of the basic recipe noted above, we suggest adding a few slices of fresh ginger to the mix.

To fully extract the flavors of the ginger, consider muddling it with your limes. Be careful to strain afterward, unless you want to be sucking up bits of ginger through your straw and set your mouth ablaze!

Coupled with the ginger beer, this is sure to amplify the smoldering tones of the original cocktail's taste.

Be sure to use ginger beer and not ginger ale. Most commercially sold ginger beer, though fermented, is alcohol-free. It differs from ginger ale in the way it is manufactured. The intensity of ginger essence in ginger ale isn’t comparable to that of the essence in ginger beer.

So, if you decide to replace ginger beer with ginger ale, you’ll be disappointed at the silenced flavors of ginger in your drink. Essentially, what you’d be drinking wouldn’t be a Moscow Mule at all.

Take it from us, use ginger beer!

If you would rather direct your variations or additions towards the sweet and fruity citrus flavors of your Virgin Mule, you can switch out the simple syrup for a fruit-flavored syrup.

Use a lime-flavored syrup if you would like to stay true to the original characteristics of the classic Moscow Mule.

If you're looking to put a spin on your virgin mule, don't be afraid to try any berry-flavored syrup for an extra layer of fruity goodness.

Sugar-Free Options

Not everyone is a fan of sugar and all things sweet. With this modification, the recipe can accommodate those of us who are patrolling our sugar intake due to dieting and/or health concerns.

More specifically, if you're counting calories or looking to steer clear of sugar all together, you can modify the Virgin Mule recipe by using sugar-free syrup. 

With 8 grams of sugar in one tablespoon of conventional syrup, the sugar-free option is a great way to go. A couple of dollops of the sugar-free syrup is a guilt-free way to enjoy the sweetness of this mocktail without the guilt.

Depending on your location and accessibility, you may or may not find brands of sugar-free syrup.  All the merrier if you can!

If you can’t find sugar-free syrup, another option is to use flavored sparkling water to add some additional flavour to your mocktail.  Some brands of flavored sparkling water are sold in tasty flavors with no sugar, no sweeteners, and no calories. Furthermore, the carbonation in sparkling water will augment the invigorating fizz of the ginger beer.  Win-win-win!

Serving Time

Just because we've decided to forego the alcohol component doesn't mean we're also forsaking presentation. We 're all about balance in life as well as in mocktails. So, if one component of the drink has been removed, another must be added!

And what better place to embellish then in the presentation?

It's no secret that the Moscow Mule is served in a copper mug . There are a variety of reasons why, and one of them is that copper is trusted to maintain a cooler temperature. In addition, the copper adds a "zing" to the flavor of the cocktail with each sip.

Whatever the reason, we can't deny that a Moscow Mule served in a copper mug just looks and feels right. The same is to be said for a Virgin Mule.

Besides, if we’re talking about looks, no one has to know you’re drinking a mocktail if you don’t want them to. The copper mug will keep your secret!

In lieu of serving your Virgin Mule in a copper mug, you can serve it in any bar glass. With so many types and shapes of cocktail glasses, there really is no reason why you couldn't enjoy your mocktail in a highball, an old fashion glass, or even a martini glass.

Whatever you have on hand should work just fine!

Garnish Like a Pro

Add a lime wedge to the rim and voila!

Want to take things up a notch? Drag the lime wedge along the rim of your glass, allowing the citrus to coat the edge. Turn your glass upside down into a plate of salt or sugar.

Extra points for presentation and added flavor with every sip!

For herb garnishes, clap your choice of herbs between your hands to bruise it lightly and release its essential oils and aroma.  Mint works great!

And here's an extra tip. If you have them, sprinkle a few pomegranate seeds on the surface of your drink! However, be careful if drinking with a straw as those little seeds will get sucked right up! It’s also a beautiful addition to your Virgin Mule, as you can see in the photo below.

We hope this article has been useful in helping to introduce you to the Virgin Moscow Mule! The Moscow Mule is an incredibly versatile drink, so don't hesitate to let your creativity push you to experiment with new variations. And, if you want to take your presentation and style up a notch, make sure to equip your kitchen bar with a few copper mugs !

Did You Enjoy This Article?

Thank you for reading! If you enjoyed this article, you might also like the following articles:  Top 7 Tennessee Mule Recipes and  Top 6 Gin-Gin and Gin Mule Recipes

Relevant Products

Moscow Mule Copper Mug

Leave a comment

Subscribe to our newsletter.

Receive exclusive deals and our latest blog posts straight to your inbox!