sailboat running rigging names

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Mooring Warps and Mooring Lines

• LIROS 3 Strand Polyester Mooring Warps
• LIROS Braided Dockline Mooring Warps
• LIROS Classic Mooring Warps
• LIROS Green Wave 3 Strand Mooring Warps
• LIROS Handy Elastic Mooring Warps
• LIROS Moorex12 Mooring Warps
• LIROS Octoplait Polyester Mooring Warps
• LIROS Polypropylene Floating Mooring Warps
• LIROS Super Yacht Mooring Polyester Docklines
• Marlow Blue Ocean Dockline

Mooring Accessories

• Mooring Cleats and Fairleads
• Mooring Compensators
• Mooring Shackles
• Mooring Swivels

Mooring Strops

• LIROS 3 Strand Nylon Mooring Strops
• LIROS Anchorplait Nylon Mooring Strops
• Small Boat and RIB Mooring Strops

Mooring Bridles

• V shape Mooring Bridles
• Y shape Mooring Bridles

Mooring Strops with chain centre section

• 3 Strand / Chain / 3 Strand
• Anchorplait / Chain / Anchorplait

Bonomi Mooring Cleats

• Majoni Fenders
• Polyform Norway Fenders
• Dock Fenders
• Fender Ropes and Accessories
• Ocean Inflatable Fenders

Mooring Buoys

Max power bow thrusters.

• Coastline Bow Thruster Accessories

50 metre / 100 metre Rates - Mooring

Mooring information.

• Mooring Warps Size Guide
• Mooring Lines - LIROS Recommended Diameters
• Mooring Rope Selection Guide
• Mooring Warp Length and Configuration Guide
• How to estimate the length of a single line Mooring Strop
• Mooring Ropes - Break Load Chart
• Mooring Compensator Advisory
• Rope Cockling Information
• Fender Size Guide
• Majoni Fender Guide
• Polyform Norway Fender Inflation Guide

Custom Build Instructions

• More Article and Guides >

Anchor Warps Spliced to Chain

• LIROS 3 Strand Nylon Spliced to Chain
• LIROS 3 Strand Polyester Spliced to Chain
• LIROS Anchorplait Nylon Spliced to Chain
• LIROS Octoplait Polyester Spliced to Chain

Anchor Warps

• Leaded Anchor Warp
• LIROS 3 Strand Nylon Anchor Warps
• LIROS 3 Strand Polyester Anchor Warps
• LIROS Anchorplait Nylon Anchor Warps
• LIROS Octoplait Polyester Anchor Warps
• Aluminium Anchors
• Galvanised Anchors
• Stainless Steel Anchors

Calibrated Anchor Chain

• Cromox G6 Stainless Steel Chain
• G4 Calibrated Stainless Steel Anchor Chain
• Lofrans Grade 40
• MF DAMS Grade 70
• MF Grade 40
• Titan Grade 43

Clearance Chain

Anchoring accessories.

• Anchor Connectors
• Anchor Trip Hooks and Rings
• Anchoring Shackles
• Bow Rollers and Fittings
• Chain and Anchor Stoppers
• Chain Links and Markers

50 / 100 metre Rates - Anchoring

Chain snubbers.

• Chain Hooks, Grabs and Grippers
• Chain Snubbing Bridles
• Chain Snubbing Strops

Drogue Warps and Bridles

• Lewmar Windlasses
• Lofrans Windlasses
• Maxwell Windlasses
• Quick Windlasses

Windlass Accessories

• Coastline Windlass Accessories
• Lewmar Windlass Accessories
• Lofrans Windlass Accessories
• Lofrans Windlass Replacement Parts
• Maxwell Windlass Accessories
• Quick Windlass Accessories

Anchoring Information

• How To Choose A Main Anchor
• Anchoring System Assessment
• Anchor Chain and Rope Size Guide
• The Jimmy Green Guide to the Best Anchor Ropes
• What Size Anchor Do I Need?
• Anchor Size Guides
• Anchor Rope Break Load and Chain Compatibility Chart
• How to Choose Your Anchor Chain
• How to Establish the Correct Anchor Chain Calibration?
• Calibrated Anchor Chain - General Information
• Calibrated Anchor Chain Quality Control
• Calibrated Chain - Break Load and Weight Guide
• Galvanising - Managing Performance and Endurance expectation
• Can Galvanised Steel be used with Stainless Steel?
• Windlass Selection Guide
• More Articles and Guides

Stainless Steel Wire Rigging and Wire Rope

• 1x19 Wire Rigging
• 7x19 Flexible Wire Rigging
• Compacted Strand Wire Rigging
• Insulated 1x19 Wire Backstays

Wire Rigging Fittings

• Swaged Terminals
• Swageless Terminals
• Turnbuckles / Rigging screws
• Turnbuckle Components
• Backstay Insulators
• Wire Terminals

Rigging Accessories

• Backing Plates
• Backstay Adjuster and Fittings
• Backstay Blocks
• Pins, Rings and Nuts
• Rigging Chafe Protection

Fibre Rigging

• DynIce Dux Fibre Rigging
• LIROS D-Pro Static Rigging
• LIROS D-Pro-XTR Fibre Rigging
• Marlow Excel D12 MAX 78 Rigging
• Marlow M-Rig Max Rigging

Fibre Rigging Fittings

• Bluewave Rope Terminals
• Colligo Marine Terminals

Dinghy Rigging

• Dinghy Rigging Fittings
• Fibre Dinghy Rigging
• Stainless Steel Dinghy Rigging

Wind Indicators

Guard wires, guardrails and guardrail webbing.

• Guard Rail Fittings
• Guard Rails in Fibre and Webbing
• Guard Wire Accessories
• Guard Wires

Furling Systems

• Anti-torsion Stays
• Headsail Reefing Furlers
• Straight Luff Furlers
• Top Down Furlers

Furling Accessories

• Continuous Furling Line Accessories
• Furling Line Accessories

50 / 100 metre Rates - Wire and Fibre

Standing rigging assistance.

• More Articles and Guides >
• Cruising Halyards
• Performance Halyards
• Dinghy Halyards

Rigging Shackles

• Bronze Snap Shackles
• Captive and Key Pin Shackles
• hamma™ Snap Shackles
• Selden Snap Shackles
• Soft Shackles
• Standard Snap Shackles
• Tylaska End Fittings
• Wichard Snap Shackles

Lashing, Lacing and Lanyards

• LIROS 3 Strand Lashing, Lacing and Lanyards
• LIROS Braided Lashing, Lacing and Lanyards
• Cruising Sheets
• Performance Sheets
• Dinghy Sheets
• Continuous Sheets
• Tapered Sheets

Running Rigging Accessories

• Anti-Chafe Rope Protection
• Barton Sail Handling
• Lazy Jack Sail Handling
• Rodkickers, Boomstruts
• Sail Handling Accessories
• Slab Reefing

Shock Cord and Fittings

Control lines.

• Cruising Control Lines
• Performance Control Lines
• Dinghy Control Lines
• Continuous Control Lines

Classic Ropes

• 50 / 100 metres - Classic
• Classic Control Lines
• Classic Docklines
• Classic Halyards
• Classic Sheets
• LIROS Classic 3 Strand Polyester

50 / 100 metre Rates - Running Rigging

• 50 / 100 metres - Cruising Ropes
• 50 / 100 metres - Dinghy Ropes
• 50 / 100 metres - Lashing and Lanyards
• 50 / 100 metres - Performance Ropes
• LIROS Ropes
• Marlow Ropes

Running Rigging Resources

• Running Rigging Rope Fibres and Construction Explained
• How to Select a Suitable Halyard Rope
• How to select Sheets and Guys
• Dyneema Rope - Cruising and Racing Comparison
• Dinghy Rope Selection Guide
• Rope Measurement Information
• Running Rigging - LIROS Recommended Line Diameters
• Running Rigging Break Load Comparison Chart
• Colour Coding for Running Rigging
• Selecting the right type of block, plain, roller or ball bearing
• Replacing your Furling Line
• Recycling Rope

Running Rigging Glossary

Custom build instructions for sheets, halyards, control lines, low friction rings, plain bearing blocks.

• Barton Blocks
• Harken Element Blocks
• Seasure 25mm Blocks
• Selden Yacht Blocks

Wooden Blocks

Ball bearing blocks.

• Barton Ball Bearing Blocks
• Harken Ball Bearing Blocks
• Holt Dynamic Blocks
• Selden Ball Bearing Blocks

Ratchet Blocks

• Harken Ratchet Blocks
• Selden Ratchet Blocks

Roller Bearing Blocks

• Harken Black Magic Blocks
• Selden Roller Bearing Blocks

Clutches and Organisers

• Barton Clutches and Organisers
• Lewmar Clutches
• Spinlock Clutches and Organisers

Genoa Car Systems

• Barton Genoa Sheeting
• Harken Genoa Systems
• Lewmar HTX Genoa Systems

Traveller Systems

• Barton Traveller Systems
• Harken Traveller Systems

Deck Fittings

• Bungs and Hatches
• Bushes and Fairleads
• Deck Eyes, Straps and Hooks
• Pad Eyes, U Bolts and Eye Bolts

Rudder and Transom Fittings

• Pintles and Gudgeons
• Tiller Extensions and Joints

Stanchion Blocks and Fairleads

Snatch blocks.

• Barton K Cam Cleats
• Harken Ball Bearing Cam Cleats
• Holt Cam Cleats
• Selden Cam Cleats
• Spinlock PXR Cleats

Block and Tackle Purchase Systems

• Barton Winches, Snubbers and Winchers
• Coastline Electric Winch Accessories
• Harken Winches, Handles and Accessories
• Karver Winches
• Lewmar Winches, Handles and Accessories
• Winch Servicing and Accessories

Deck Hardware Support

• Blocks and Pulleys Selection Guide
• Barton High Load Eyes
• Dyneema Low Friction Rings Comparison
• Seldén Block Selection Guide
• Barton Track Selection Guide
• Barton Traveller Systems Selection Guide
• Harken Winch Selection Guide
• Karver Winch Comparison Chart
• Lewmar Winch Selection Guide - PDF
• Winch Servicing Guide

Sailing Flags

• Courtesy Flags
• Red Ensigns
• Blue Ensigns
• Flag Accessories
• Flag Staffs and Sockets
• Flag Making and Repair
• Signal Code Flags
• Galvanised Shackles
• Stainless Steel Shackles
• Titanium Shackles
• Webbing only
• Webbing Restraint Straps
• Webbing Sail Ties
• Webbing Soft Shackles

Hatches and Portlights

Sail care and repair.

• Sail Sewing

Maintenance

• Antifouling
• Fillers and Sealants
• Primers and Thinners
• PROtect Tape

Fixings and Fastenings

• Monel Rivets
• Screws, Bolts, Nuts and Washers
• U Bolts, Eye Bolts and Pad Eyes

Splicing Accessories

• Fids and Tools
• Knives and Scissors

General Chandlery

• Barrier Ropes
• Canvas Bags and Accessories
• Carabiners and Hooks
• Netting and Accessories
• Rope Ladders

Seago Boats and Tenders

Chandlery information, flag articles.

• Flag Size Guide
• Bending and Hoisting Methods for Sailing Flags
• Courtesy Flags Identification, Labelling and Stowage
• Courtesy Flag Map
• Flag Etiquette and Information
• Glossary of Flag Terms and Parts of a Flag
• Making and Repairing Flags
• Signal Code Message Definitions

Other Chandlery Articles

• Anchorplait Splicing Instructions
• Antifoul Coverage Information
• Hawk Wind Indicator Selection Guide
• Petersen Stainless - Upset Forging Information
• Speedy Stitcher Sewing Instructions
• Thimble Dimensions and Compatible Shackles

Jackstays and Jacklines

• Webbing Jackstays
• Stainless Steel Wire Jackstay Lifelines
• Fibre Jackstay Lifelines
• Jackstay and Lifeline Accessories

Safety Lines

Lifejackets.

• Children's Life Jackets
• Crewsaver Lifejackets
• Seago Lifejackets
• Spinlock Lifejackets

Buoyancy Aids

Life jackets accessories.

• Lifejacket Lights
• Lifejacket Rearming Kits
• Lifejacket Spray Hoods

Overboard Recovery

• Lifebuoy Accessories
• Purchase Systems
• Slings and Throwlines

Floating Rope

• LIROS Multifilament White Polypropylene
• LIROS Yellow Floating Safety Rope
• Danbuoy Accessories
• Jimmy Green Danbuoys
• Jonbuoy Danbuoys
• Seago Danbuoys
• Liferaft Accessories
• Seago Liferafts

Safety Accessories

• Fire Safety
• Grab Bag Contents
• Grab Bags and Polybottles
• Handheld VHF Radios
• Sea Anchors and Drogues

Safety Resources

• Guard Wires - Inspection and Replacement Guidance
• Guard Wire Stud Terminal Dimensions
• Webbing Jackstays Guidance
• Webbing Jackstays - Custom Build Instructions
• Danbuoy Selection Guide
• Danbuoy Instructions - 3 piece Telescopic - Offshore
• Liferaft Selection Guide
• Liferaft Servicing
• Man Overboard Equipment - World Sailing Compliance
• Marine Safety Information Links
• Safety Marine Equipment List for UK Pleasure Vessels

Sailing Clothing

• Sailing Jackets
• Sailing Trousers
• Thermal Layers

Leisure Wear

• Accessories
• Rain Jackets
• Sweatshirts

Sailing Footwear

• Dinghy Boots and Shoes
• Sailing Wellies

Leisure Footwear

• Walking Shoes

Sailing Accessories

• Sailing Bags and Holdalls
• Sailing Gloves
• Sailing Kneepads

Clothing Clearance

Clothing guide.

• What to wear Sailing
• Helly Hansen Mens Jacket and Pant Size Guide
• Helly Hansen Womens Sailing Jacket and Pant Size Guide
• Lazy Jacks Mens and Womens Size Charts
• Musto Men's and Women's Size Charts
• Old Guys Rule Size Guide
• Sailing Gloves Size Guides
• Weird Fish Clothing Size Charts

The Jimmy Green Clothing Store

Lower Fore St, Beer, East Devon, EX12 3EG

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Clearance August Race Boat Cleaning Kit £26.00

Clearance LIROS Racer Dyneema £55.08

Clearance Folding Stock Anchor £123.25

Clearance LIROS Herkules £0.00

Clearance Barton Size 0 Ball Bearing Blocks - 5mm £10.13

Clearance Marlow Blue Ocean® Doublebraid £18.48

Mooring Clearance

Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance, sailboat rigging can be divided in to 2 categories:.

Standing Rigging - the wires and ropes that hold up the mast, also known as shrouds or stays.

Running Rigging - the ropes (and wires) that control the sails on a yacht.

There are a large number of different terms that cover the use for which each rope is employed.

The most common generic terms are sheets and halyards.

Normally attached to the clew of the sail and control the shape and angle to the wind - each individual sheet is identified by the name of the sail as a prefix e.g. Jib sheets, genoa sheets, yankee sheets, staysail sheets, code zero sheets, gennaker sheets, cruising chute sheets, mainsheets, mizzen sheets - where these are a pair, they may also be classified as port or starboard. Spinnaker Sheets are used in conjunction with Spinnaker Guys and a spinnaker pole to control the shape of the spinnaker on either gybe.

Attached to the head of a sail and used to haul a sail up the mast - in the same way as sheets, each halyard is identified by the name of the sail as a prefix e.g. main halyard.

Sheets and halyards are part of a more generic category: Control Lines or a little more obscurely, Preventers. Control Lines include sheets and halyards and all the other ropes and wires that contribute to the efficient mangement of a yacht's sail area. A rope that stops an accidental gybe is commonly referred to as a preventer. However, most of the ropes that comprise a yacht's running rigging can be described as preventers i.e. a rope that is preventing something or control lines i.e. a rope that is controlling something.

Control Lines:

Tack Line - attached to the tack of a sail to make the length of the luff adjustable - common on loose footed reaching/running headsails e.g. gennakers but also used on more traditional rigs e.g. dipping lugsails

In Hauler or Tweaker - attached to a headsail (jib/genoa/yankee/code zero) sheet and used to bring the angle of the lead nearer to the centreline than the normal setting.

Barber Hauler - attached to a headsail sheet and used to create more downward pressure and generally from a point further outboard than the normal fairlead setting.

Downhaul or Cunningham - attached to the tack of a mainsail and used to create tension in the luff.

Kicker or Vang - diagonal line or purchase system (block and tackle) from base of mast to a point on the underside of the boom - used to create downward tension on the boom and subsequently the leach of the sail.

Outhaul - generally attached to the clew of a mainsail to adjust the foot tension.

Reefing Line or Reefing Pennant - Lines reeved through the boom and the mainsail to facilitate a reduction in mainsail area.

Lazyjack Line - used for guiding and controlling the mainsail as it is dropped.

Running Backstays or Checkstays - adjustable version of the backstay, generally consisting of a very low stretch standing part (single line) attached to a purchase system for adjusting the tension.

Preventer - line deployed to prevent the mainsail boom from accidentally gybing or control the speed of the boom's transition during a gybe.

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• Running Rigging

Sailboat Rigging: Part 2 - Running Rigging

Sailboat rigging can be described as being either  running rigging which is adjustable and controls the sails  - or  standing rigging, which fixed and is there to support the mast. And there's a huge amount of it on the average cruising boat...

• Port and starboard sheets for the jib, plus two more for the staysail (in the case of a cutter rig) plus a halyard for each - that's 6 separate lines;
• In the case of a cutter you'll need port and starboard runners - that's 2 more;
• A jib furling line - 1 more;
• An up-haul, down-haul and a guy for the whisker pole - 3 more;
• A tackline, sheet and halyard for the cruising chute if you have one - another 3;
• A mainsheet, halyard, kicker, clew outhaul, topping lift and probably three reefing pennants for the mainsail (unless you have an in-mast or in-boom furling system) - 8 more.

Total? 23 separate lines for a cutter-rigged boat, 18 for a sloop. Either way, that's a lot of string for setting and trimming the sails.

Many skippers prefer to have all running rigging brought back to the cockpit - clearly a safer option than having to operate halyards and reefing lines at the mast. The downside is that the turning blocks at the mast cause friction and associated wear and tear on the lines.

The Essential Properties of Lines for Running Rigging

It's often under high load, so it needs to have a high tensile strength and minimal stretch.

It will run around blocks, be secured in jammers and self-tailing winches and be wrapped around cleats, so good chafe resistance is essential.

Finally it needs to be kind to the hands so a soft pliable line will be much more pleasant to use than a hard rough one.

Not all running rigging is highly stressed of course; lines for headsail roller reefing and mainsail furling systems are comparatively lightly loaded, as are mainsail jiffy reefing pennants, single-line reefing systems and lazy jacks .

But a fully cranked-up sail puts its halyard under enormous load. Any stretch in the halyard would allow the sail to sag and loose its shape.

It used to be that wire halyards with spliced-on rope tails to ease handling were the only way of providing the necessary stress/strain properties for halyards.

Thankfully those days are astern of us - running rigging has moved on a great deal in recent years, as have the winches, jammers and other hardware associated with it.

Modern Materials

Ropes made from modern hi-tech fibres such as Spectra or Dyneema are as strong as wire, lighter than polyester ropes and are virtually stretch free. It's only the core that is made from the hi-tech material; the outer covering is abrasion and UV resistant braided polyester.

But there are a few issues with them:~

• They don't like being bent through a tight radius. A bowline or any other knot will reduce their strength significantly;
• For the same reason, sheaves must have a diameter of at least eight times the diameter of the line;
• Splicing securely to shackles or other rigging hardware is difficult to achieve, as it's slippery stuff. Best to get these done by a professional rigger...
• As you may have guessed, it's expensive stuff!

My approach on  Alacazam  is to use Dyneema cored line for all applications that are under load for long periods of time - the jib halyard, staysail halyard, main halyard, spinnaker halyard, kicking strap and checkstays - and pre-stretched polyester braid-on-braid line for all other running rigging applications.

Approximate Line Diameters for Running Rigging

But note the word 'approximate'. More precise diameters can only be determined when additional data regarding line material, sail areas, boat type and safety factors are taken into consideration.

Length of boat

Spinnaker guys

Boom Vang and preventers

Spinnaker sheet

Genoa sheet

Main halyard

Genoa / Jib halyard

Spinnaker halyard

Pole uphaul

Pole downhaul

Reefing pennants

Lengthwise it will of course depend on the layout of the boat, the height of the mast and whether it's a fractional or masthead rig - and if you want to bring everything back to the cockpit...

Read more about Reefing and Sail Handling...

Headsail Roller Reefing Systems Can Jam If Not Set Up Correctly

When headsail roller reefing systems jam there's usually just one reason for it. This is what it is, and here's how to prevent it from happening...

Single Line Reefing; the Simplest Way to Pull a Slab in the Mainsail

Before going to the expense of installing an in-mast or in-boom mainsail roller reefing systems, you should take a look at the simple, dependable and inexpensive single line reefing system

Is Jiffy Reefing the simplest way to reef your boat's mainsail?

Nothing beats the jiffy reefing system for simplicity and reliability. It may have lost some of its popularity due to expensive in mast and in boom reefing systems, but it still works!

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Running Rigging

Jib Tack, Jib Halyabds, and Jib Sheets.

The jib tack requires to be of great strength, and is made indifferently, accordingly to the judgment of the person who has the fitting out of the yacht, of rope, chain, or flexible wire rope. Rope does very well in vessels under 40 tons, but wire is to be preferred, and it is found to stand better than chain. The jib tack t is fast to the traveller a (Fig. 15), and leads down through a sheave hole * at the bowsprit end (inside the cranse iron) a block is shackled to the end of the tack through which the outhaul is rove. The standing part of the outhaul is put over one of the bitts with a running eye; the hauling part leads on board by the side of the bowsprit. A single rope inhaul is generally fast to the traveller.

The score in the end of the bowsprit has necessarily to be very large, and frequently it is made wider than it need be; at any rate the sheave hole is a source of weakness, and generally if the end of the bowsprit comes off it is close outside the sheave hole, the enormous lateral strain brought on the part by the weather shroud (%) causing the wood to give way. To avoid such accidents as these one or two yachts have the sheave outside the iron, as shown by to. The tack n passes between the ears or "lugs" on the cranse iron at o and p. To o the topmast stay is fitted, and the bobstay block at p. Of course if the score and sheave were put at m, the other score and sheave * would be dispensed with. Generally when the end comes off at the sheave 8 the bowsprit immediately afterwards breaks close off at the stem, unless some one is very smart at letting the jib sheets fly, or in putting the helm down. With the sheave hole at m no such accident would happen.

Jib halyards are, as a rule, made of chain, as it runs better and does not stretch, and the fall stows in a smaller compass when the jib is set; in fact, the fall is generally run through one of the chain pipes

into the forecastle, where it helps a trifle as ballast.* However, several large vessels, such as Livonia, Modwena, and Arrow, have had Manilla rope. The jib halyards are rove through an iron (single) block (which is hooked or shackled to the head cringle of the jib), and then each part leads through an iron (single) block on either side of the masthead (see Fig. 5). The hauling part usually leads down the port side of the mast; the purchase is shackled to the part that leads through the block on the starboard side. In vessels above 40 tons a flexible wire runner is invariably used in addition to the purchase; one end of the runner is shackled to an eye bolt on deck, and the other, after leading through a block on the end of the jib halyard, is shackled to the npper block of the purchase. The purchase consists of a double and single block, or two double; in the former case the single block is below, with the standing part of the tackle fast to it; but where two blocks are used, the standing part of the tackle is made fast to the upper block. As a great deal of "beef" is required to properly set up a jib, it is usual to have a lead of some kind for the " fall" * of the purchase on deck, such as a snatch block. It is, of course, necessary to have a " straight" luff to a jib, but very frequently the purchase is used a little too freely; the result is that the forestay is slacked, and perhaps a link gives way in the halyards; or the luff rope of the jib is stranded (generally near the head or tack, where it has been opened for the splice), and sometimes the bobstay-fall is burst. (We once saw the latter mishap occur on board the Oimara during the match at Southsea.) These mishaps can be generally averted by "easing" the vessel whilst the jib is being set up, choosing the time whilst she is in stays or before the wind, and watching to see that the forestay is not slackened.

Jib sheets in vessels under 80 tons are usually single, but in vessels larger than 80 tons they are double. In the latter case there are two blocks, which are put on the clew cringle; a sheet is rove through each block, and the two parts through the jib sheet holes in the wash strake of the bulwarks; one part of the sheet is then made fast and the other hauled upon.

Fobs Halyards, Fobe Tacks, and Fobb Shebts.

The fore halyards are usually fitted as follows: The standing part is hooked or shackled to an eye bolt under the yoke on the port side, then through a single block hooked to the head of the sail, and up through another single block hung to an eye bolt under the yoke on the starboard side. The downhaul is bent to the head cringle or to the hook of the

* The "fell" of a tackle is the pert that is taken hold of to haul upon.

block. No purchase is necessary, as the sail is set on a stay; but in yachts above 10 tons the luff of the sail is brought taut by a tackle hooked to the tack; the tack leads through the stem head. The tackle oonsists of a single and double block, or two doubles according to the size of the yacht. In yachts of 40 tons and upwards the tack is usually made of flexible wire rope.

Fore sheets in yachts under 15 tons are usually made up of two single blocks. The standing part is made fast to the upper block (hooked and moused or shackled to the clew of the sail). In larger vessels a double, or single, or two double blocks are used, the hauling part or fall always leading from the upper block. In very large vessels, such as 100-ton cutters or yawls, or 140-ton schooners , "runners" are used in addition to tackles. These are called the standing parts of the sheets: one end is hooked on the tackle by an eye; the other end is passed through a bullseye of lignum vitss on the clew of the sail, and is then belayed to a cavel. The sail is then Bheeted home with the tackle.

Main and Peak Halyards, Main Tack, Main Sheet, and Main

The main or throat halyards are generally rove through a treble block at the masthead, and a double block on the jaws of the gaff. The hauling part of the main halyards leads down the starboard side of the mast, and is belayed to the mast bitts. The main purchase is fast to the standing part, and usually consists of a oouple of double blocks, and the lower one is generally hooked to an eye bolt in the deck on the starboard side. In vessels under 15 tons it is unusual to have a main purchase, and when there is no purchase the upper main halyard block is a double one, and the lower a single. However, racing 10-tonners have a main purchase, and many 5-tonners have one. The principal object in having a main purchase in a small craft is that the mainsail can be set better, as in starting with "all canvas down" the last two or three pulls become very heavy, especially if the hands on the peak have been a little too quick; and a much tauter luff can be got by the purchasfl^than by the main tack tackle. Of course the latter is dispensed with in small vessels where the purchase is used, and the tack made fast by a lacing round the goose-neck of the boom. By doing away with the tack tackle at least 6in. greater length of luff can be had in a 5-tonner, and this may be of some advantage. The sail cannot be triced up, of course, without casting off the main tack lacing; but some yacht sailers oonsider this an advantage, as no doubt sailing a vessel in a strong wind with the main tack triced up very badly stretches the sail, looks very ugly.

The peak halyards in almost all vessels under 140 tons are rove through two single blocks on the gaff and three on the masthead, as shown in Plate I. and Fig. 5. Some vessels above 140 tons have three blocks on the gaff, and in such cases the middle block on the masthead is usually a double one. The standing part of the peak halyards to which the purchase is fast leads through the upper block and down on the port side.

The usual practice in racing vessels is to have a wire leather-covered span (copper wire is best) with an iron-bound bullseye for each block on the gaff to work upon, and this plan no doubt causes a more equal distribution of the strain on the gaff. The binding of the bullseye

has an eye to take the hook of the block. In Fig. 16 a is a portion of the gaff, b is the span; c c are the eyes of the span and thumb cleats on the gaff to prevent the eyes slipping, d is the bullseye with one of the peak halyard blocks hooked to it.

The main tack generally is a gun tackle purchase, but in vessels above 60 tons a double and single or two double blocks are used. In addition, some large cutters have a runner rove through the tack cringle, one end being fast to the goose-neck of the boom, and the other to the tackle. In laced mainsails the tack is secured by a lacing to the goose-neck.

The main boom is usually fitted to the spider hoop round the mast by a universal joint usually termed the main boom goose-neck.

The main sheet should be made of left-handed, slack-laid, six-stranded Manilla rope. The blocks required are a three-fold on the boom, a two-fold on the buffer or hone, as the case may be, and a single block on each quarter for the lead. Yachts of less than 15 tons have a double block on the boom, and single on the buffer.

Many American yachts have a horse in length about one-third the width of the counter for the mainsheet block to travel on. For small vessels, at any rate, this plan is a good one, as the boom can be kept down so much better on a wind, as less sheet will be out than there would be without the horse. A stout ring of indiarubber should be on either end of the horse, to relieve the shock as the boom goes over.

The mainsail outhaul is made np of a horse on the boom, a shackle as traveller, a wire or chain runner outhaul (attached to the shackle, and rove through a sheave hole at the boom end), and a tackle. (See Fig. 17.) In small vessels the latter consists of one block only; in large vessels of two single, or a double and single, or two double blocks.

The old-fashioned plan of outhaul, and one still very much in use, consists of an iron traveller (a large leather-covered ring) on the boom end, a chain or rope through a sheave hole and a tackle. This latter plan is perhaps the stronger of the two; but an objection to it is that the traveller very frequently gets jammed and the reef cleats have to be farther forward than desirable, to allow the traveller to work.

Sometimes, instead of a sheave hole, the sheave for the outhaul is fitted right at the extreme end of the boom, on to which an iron cap is fitted for the purpose.

Topsail Halyards, Sheets, and Tacks.

The topsail halyards in vessels under 10 tons consist of a single rope rove through a sheave hole under the eyes of the topmast rigging.

Yachts of 10 tons and over have a block which hooks to a strop or sling on the yard, or if the topsail be a jib-headed one, to the head cringle. The standing part of the halyard has a running eye, which is put over the topmast, and rests on the eyes of the rigging; the halyard is rove through the block (which has to be hooked to the yard), and through the sheave hole at the topmast head. It is best to have a couple of thumb cleats on the yard where it has to be slung; there is then no danger of the strop slipping, or of the yard being wrongly slung.

When the topsail yard is of great length, as in most yachts of 40 tons and upwards, an upper halyard is provided (called also sometimes a tripping line or trip halyard, becausfe the rope is of use in tripping the yard in hoisting or lowering). This is simply a single rope bent to the upper part of the yard, and rove through a sheave hole in the pole, above the eyes of the topmast rigging. The upper halyards are mainly useful in hoisting and for lowering to get the yard peaked; however, for very long yards, if bent sufficiently near the upper end, they may in a small degree help to keep the peak of the sail from* sagging to leeward, or prevent the yard bending.

The topsail sheet is always a single * Manilla rope, as tarred hemp rope would stain the mainsail in wet weather. It leads through a cheek block on the gaff end, then through a block shackled to an eye bolt under the jaws of the gaff; but in most racing vessels nowadays a pendant or whip is used for this block, as shown in Plate I. The pendant should go round the mast with a running eye. By this arrangement the strain is taken off the jaws of the gaff and consequently off the main halyards. A common plan of fitting this block and whip is shown in Pig. 18. The hauling part of the sheet is generally put round one of the winches on the mast to " sheet home " the topsail.

The topsail tack is usually a strong piece of Manilla with a thimble spliced in it, to which the tack tackle is hooked.

Jib-topsail halyards and main-topmast-staysail halyards are usually single ropes rove through a tail block on topmast head; but one or two large vessels have a lower block, with a spring hook, which is hooked to the head of the sail. In such cases, the standing part of the halyards is fitted on the topmast head with a running eye or bight.

• The Oimara, cutter, had doable topsail sheets rove in this way : one end of the sheet was made fast to the gaff end; the other end of the sheet was rove through a single block on the clew of the sail; then through the oheek block at the end of the gaff, through a block at the jaws of the gaff, and round the winch.

Spinnaerb Halyards, Outhaul, &c.

Spinnaker halyards are invariably single, and rove through a tail block at the topmast bead.

The spinnaker boom is usually fitted with a movable goose-neck at its inner end. The goose-neck consists of a universal joint and round-neck pin, and sockets. (Square iron was formerly used for the neck, but there was always a difficulty in getting the neck shipped in the boom, and round iron was consequently introduced.) The pin is generally put into its socket on the mast, and then the boom end is brought to the neck.

At the outer end of the boom are a couple of good-sized thumb cleats, against which the running eye of the after and fore guy are put. The fore guy (when one is used) is a single rope; the after guy has a pendant or whip with a block at the end, through which a rope is rove. The standing part of this rope is made fast to a cavel-pin on the quarter, and so is the hauling part when belayed. The after guy thus forms a single whip-purchase (see Plate I.). The outhaul is rove through a tail block* at the outer end of the spinnaker boom, and sometimes a snatch block is provided for a lead at the inner end on th§ mast. The topping lift consists of two single, a double and single, or two double blocks, according to the size of the yacht.

The upper block of the topping lift is a rope strop tail block, with a running eye to go round the masthead. The lower block is iron bound, and hooks to an eye strop on the boom.

Formerly a bobstay was used ; but, if the boom is not allowed to lift, it will bend like a bow; in fact, the bobstay was found to be a fruitful cause of a boom breaking, if there was any wind at all, and so bobstays were discarded. The danger of a boom breaking through its buckling up can be greatly lessened by having one hand to attend to the topping lift; as the boom rears and bends haul on the lift, and the bend will practically be "lifted" out.

Small yachts seldom have a fore guy to spinnaker boom, but bend a rope to the tack of the sail (just as the outhaul is bent) leading to the bowsprit end; this rope serves as a fore guy, or brace, to haul the boom forward; and when the spinnaker requires to be shifted to the bowsprit, the boom outhaul is slackened up and the tack hauled out to bowsprit end. Thus double outhauls are bent to the spinnaker tack cringle, and one

• Formerly a hole vu out in the boom end, and a sheaye fitted for the outhaul to run through; this plan is now abandoned, as, unless the boom happens to oome with one partionlar side uppermost, an unfair lead may result rove through the sheave hole or block at the spinnaker boom end, and the other through a block at bowsprit end. But generally the large spinnaker (set as such) has too much hoist for the jib spinnaker, and a shift has to be made for the bowsprit spinnaker, which is hoisted by the jib topsail halyards if that sail be not already set; even in such case no fore guy is used in small vessels, but to ease the boom forward one hand slackens up the topping lift a little, and another the after guy, and, if there be any wind at all, the boom will readily go forward. In a five-tonner the after guy is a single rope without purchase, and the topping lift is also a single rope, rove through a block under the lower cap.

A schooner has a main and fore spinnaker fitted in the manner just described, and the usual bowsprit spinnaker as well, which is usually hoisted by the jib topsail halyards.

As spinnaker booms are now carried so very long, they will not go under the forestay; consequently, when the spinnaker has to be shifted, the boom must be unshipped. To shift the boom, the usual practice is to top it up, lift it away from the goose-neck, and then launch the inner end aft till the outer end will clear the forestay, or leech of foresail if that sail be set. If the boom is not over long, the inner end can be lowered down the fore hatch or over the side of the vessel until the other end will clear the forestay (see als<J page 79).

When spinnakers were first introduced no goose-neck was used, the heel of the boom being lashed against the mast. A practice then sometimes was to have a sheave hole at either end of the boom, with a rope three times the length of the boom rove through each sheave hole. One end of this rope served as the outhaul, the other for the lashing round the mast. To shift over, the boom was launched across to the other rail, and what had been the inboard end became the outboard end. Of course the guys had to be shifted from one end to the other. As spinnaker booms are now of such enormous length, it would be almost impossible, and highly dangerous, to work them in this way, although it might do for a five-tonner.

Spinnaker booms when first fitted with the goose-neck were no longer than the length from deck to hounds, so that they could be worked under the forestay without being unshipped. However, it would appear that the advantages of a longer boom are greater than the inconvenience of having to. unship it for shifting, and now, generally, a spinnaker boom when shifted and topped up and down the mast, reaches above the upper cap.

The following plan was worked during the summer of 1876 in the Lily, 10-tonner, but we have never met with it elsewhere. The arrangement was thus described: Take a yacht of say 65 tons, and suppose her 70ft. long and 15ft. beam, with a mast measuring 60ft. from deck to cap, from which if 9ft. is subtracted for masthead, and 4ft. more allowed for the angle made by the forestay, a spinnaker boom, to swing over clear, cannot exceed 43ft. (as the goose-neck is 3ft. from deck), which of course is much too little to balance the mainboom and sail. It is proposed to have a boom of 42ft., and another smaller one of 21ft. made a little heavier than the long one, and fitted with two irons 7ft. apart; the longer one to be made in the usual manner, with bolts in both ends, for the goose-neck; but the sheaves in the ends to be, one vertical, and the other horizontal. It will then make a very snug storm boom for the balloon jib when shipped singly, whilst the smaller one, by leading a tack rope (or outhaul) through the block on the outer iron will do very well for the staysail. See Fig. 19: in case No. 1, the boom is on end and ready for letting fall to starboard; and in Ho. 2 dipped and falling to port. A A (No. 1) represents the 42ft. boom, and B B the 21-footer; the dotted line b b the arc the boom would travel if not let run down; and the dotted line c c the actual line it travels when housed. C in the small diagram represents the outer iron or cap on the end of the small

boom (which can be made square or round; in the diagram it is made square, to prevent twisting), and a a bolt to which the standing part of the heel rope is made fast by clip hooks; the rope passes through the horizontal sheave at h, and back to the block on the cap at/. The fall can be belayed to a cleat on the small boom, or would greatly ease the strain on the gooseneck if made fast on the rail or to the rigging. When gybing it would only be necessary to top the boom by the lift, let go the heel rope, and let it run down; then swing over, lower away, and haul out the boom when squared. It would be better to hook on the Burton purchase to the cap at e, both as an extra support and to make sure of the boom whilst swinging. This plan would not only obviate the danger and trouble of dipping the boom, but give a 57ft. spar, besides giving greater strength, the boom being double where the most strain comes; and the extra weight is a positive advantage, as helping to balance the main boom. Of course this plan would allow of almost any length of spars, as a 40ft. lower boom would give a 74ft. spar, and still leave 8ft. between the irons; and in these days of excessive spars and canvas no doubt it would be attempted to balance a ringtail, but the lengths given seem a good comparative length for any class.

A more simple plan for " telescoping " a spinnaker boom is shown by

Fig. 20, a is the inner part of the boom; c is a brass cylinder with an

angular slot in it at 8. This cylinder is fixed tightly to the outer part of the boom by the screw bolts i i. The two parts of the boom meet inside the cylinder at the ticked line t. When the two parts "of the boom are to be used together, the ring m is put on the cylinder. The inboard part of the boom is then put into the cylinder, and the whole is firmly screwed up by the thumb-screw x. Both parts of the boom have their ends " socketed " so as to take a goose-neck, and thus either part can be used alone.

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Readers' Questions

What is yacht running rigging?

Yacht running rigging is the ropes and cables used to control the movement of the sails and spars of a sailing yacht. It generally consists of halyards, sheets, guys, and sometimes vangs, used to raise, lower, and angle the sails.

Nautical Terminology 101 – Running Rigging

October 5th, 2023 by team

by B.J. Porter (Contributing Editor)

Last month we talked about standing rigging – the fixed, permanent parts of your boat. This month, we’re on to running rigging – the various lines that you move, pull, and release to sail the boat. Running rigging has at least one free end. For this article, we’re talking about the rigging on a modern sloop, a comparatively simple rig compared to many older rig styles.

The astute observer will note I used the word “lines,” not “ropes.” With only a few exceptions, there are no “ropes” on a sailboat. There are many things made of rope on a sailboat, but the proper names for them once they have a job do not include the word “rope.” Sailors talk mostly about lines, sheets, halyards, and so on.

(Ten bonus points for anyone who can name some of the only “ropes” on a boat in the comments. Hint: We find at least one on sails without hanks or cars.)

A sheet is a line which controls a sail. It’s used to trim the sail (tighten it in) or ease it (loosen and let it out). The name for the sheet is {sailname} + “sheet.” Sheets always attach to the clew of the sail.

Main sheet – Controls trim on the mainsail. Usually run through a series of blocks to get purchase for easier trimming.

Jib/genoa sheet – Handles the first, largest headsail. They will turn around blocks and run through a car to change sheeting angles , but there isn’t a purchase involved. Instead, headsail sheets run to the primary (largest) cockpit winches. Like the sail name itself, the use of jib and Genoa is often interchangeable and informal. So you may well be flying a giant overlapping Genoa from the headstay while people in the cockpit are telling you to work all the knots and kinks out of the “jib sheet.”

Staysail sheet – if there is a staysail, this runs through its own adjustable deck car back to the cockpit.

Spinnaker sheet – trims the spinnaker, and attaches to the leeward side of the sail (remember windward/leeward from August?).

Headsail and spinnaker sheets are usually paired and run to each side of the boat for use on different tacks and gybes. One line is taught with the sail load, and the other one is the “lazy” sheet, because it isn’t doing anything.

Halyards haul sails up to the top of their set position and hold them there. They attach to the head of the sail, run through a sheave at the top or middle of the mast, and back down to deck level. Some halyards are external (outside the mast) but many run inside the mast and only appear through slots near deck level.

Many halyards have a rope clutch on them to hold the rope. But rope clutches can slip a little with high loads, so most also have a cleat or self-tailing winch to ensure there is no slipping once the sail loads up.

Halyards are made from very low stretch lines, and race boats often strip the outer cover off the halyards to save weight.

Primary halyards are the main halyard , jib/genoa halyard , staysail halyard , and spinnaker halyard .

Many boats have one or more spare halyards, in case one breaks or the crew needs to go up the rig while other halyards are in use. Halyards may end at the mast, or run back to the cockpit.

Control lines

Other lines are used to control the sails, trim the rig, and operate the boat. We’ll group them by functional groups, so you can explore and identify them easily the next time you’re on a boat.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Not all boats have all the controls and lines listed.

Mainsail lines

• Outhaul , or clew outhaul – line to the clew of the mainsail that adjusts foot tension and the fullness of the main.
• Cunningham – adjusts the luff tension. It’s usually a line through a grommet near the tack of the sail a little way up the luff.
• Reef lines – used to reef (shorten) the sail, these run through grommets (or cringles ) near the luff the sail at fixed reef points.
• Vang – or “Boom vang” runs from the bottom of the boom to the deck and keeps the boom height constant. This may be a block and tackle with lines, or a hydraulic or mechanical cylinder on larger boats.
• Traveler – controls the angle of attack of the mainsail. The mainsheet runs through a block on the traveler, but the traveler itself is an adjustable car usually moved with a line run between blocks for purchase.
• Topping lift – supports the boom from the masthead when the boat is at rest. The topping usually runs to the masthead. Some owners use an old halyard for the topper, so it can act as a spare halyard.
• Leech lines and foot lines – small lines along the edges of the sail to set the tension or curve in the sail edge.

Headsail lines

• Leech lines and foot lines – identical in function on head sails and the mainsail, but headsails don’t have foot lines as often.
• Furling line – manual sail furlers often use a line to turn the furling drum which wraps onto the drum when the sail is out.
• Barber hauler – a temporary replacement sheet run through a separate block to get better sheeting angles sailing off the wind.

Spinnaker and pole lines

Symmetrical spinnakers need more lines than asymmetrical sails, because they use a pole to support the sail and keep it open. The pole must be trimmed to keep the angle of attack correct.

• Spinnaker guy – or “brace” for our friends on the other side of the pond, is the line attached to the windward side of a symmetrical spinnaker. it runs through the spinnaker pole jaws. NOTE: Some boats, usually smaller ones, do not run a separate sheet and guy on each side of the boat. One line runs to each corner of the sail, and is called the sheet when it’s used to trim the sail, and the guy when it trims the pole.
• Tack line – on asymmetrical spinnakers, a tack line runs from the sail tack to a deck fitting or pole. It’s usually adjustable for wind conditions.
• Twing – light line usually with a block to adjust the angle of the spinnaker sheet. Often left off, especially in light air racing.
• Pole downhaul – runs from the bottom of the spinnaker pole to a deck fitting, used to keep the spinnaker pole level and prevent it from “skying” or flying up on the end.
• Pole topping lift – pulls the pole up and level.

Names and Variations

As I hinted with the spinnaker guy/brace name differences between North America and the U.K., there are some different names which may be used based on where you’re sailing. But you may hear a vang called a “kicker” or other terms used that aren’t here for the same things anywhere.

For sure we’ve missed a few things, and I’d love to hear some of your local variations in the comments!

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Simple Ways to Optimize Running Rigging

• By Erik Shampain
• December 6, 2022

It’s easy to underestimate the benefits of good running rigging. There are many rope products on the market, and there is a time and a place for most of them. Let’s take a look at lines that need the most attention and why, as well as basic rules for using low-stretch line, using lightweight or tapered line where most beneficial and using rope that is easy to work with.

Let’s start up front with the headsail halyard. Luff tension greatly affects shape and thus performance of the jib or genoa, so having a halyard that is as low-stretch as possible is paramount.  Saving a little weight aloft is also key, so find a lightweight rope as well. It’s a little against the norm, but for club racing boats that aren’t tapering their halyards, I really like some of the Vectran-cored ropes. Products like Samson’s Validator and New England Ropes V-100 are easy on the hands and easy to splice.  For a little more grand-prixed tapered halyard, talk to our local rigger about using a DUX core, or other heat-set Dyneema, with a Technora-based cover. Lately, I’ve been using a lot of Marlow’s D12 MAX 78 and 99. Tapering the halyard saves weight aloft as well. I like soft shackles for jib halyards. There, weight savings aloft generally outweighs the little extra time a bowman needs to attach the sail. This is especially true in sprit boats where the jib is rarely removed from the headstay. 

Pro Tip: When not racing, use a halyard leader to pull the halyards to the top of the mast, getting the tapered section out of the sun. For extra protection, put all the halyard tails into an old duffle bag at the base of the mast when not in use.

For jib sheets, I follow the same low-stretch rule as the jib halyard. I don’t want the jib sheet to stretch at all when a puff hits. On boats with overlapping genoas, I don’t generally recommend tapering the line because by the time the genoa is trimmed all the way in, the clew is really close to the block. On boats with non-overlapping jibs, tapering is an easy way to save a little weigh.  Plus, the smaller core size runs through across the boat more easily in tacks. I’ve been using soft shackles on the jib or genoa sheets for a while now, mostly because they don’t beat the mast up during tacks. There also a bit “softer” when they hit you. 

What about jib lead adjusters? There are a couple of approaches here. Some believe a little stretch is okay, as it allows the lead to rock aft a couple of millimeters in puffs, which twists the top of the jib off slightly. This can be fast as it helps the boat transition through puffs and lulls. I am a fan of this as long as it isn’t too stretchy. I use low-stretch Dyneema for the gross part of the purchase and then a friendlier-on-the-hands rope for the fine tune side, the part that is being handled.  Samson Warpspeed or New England Enduro Braid work well.

Spinnaker sheets are a fun one. They should be relatively low-stretch but not necessarily the lowest stretch. I’ve found that near-zero stretch lines can wreak havoc on people and hardware when flogging or when the chute is collapsing. They have to be easy on the hands, as they are the most moved sheets on the boat, and they should be tapered as far as you can get away with. Tapering saves weigh, which is very important in keeping the spinnaker clew lifting up, especially in light air when sails want to droop. Again, Samson Warpseed and New England Enduro braid are good. For boats with grinders or even small boats with no winches, a cover that is a little grippier or stronger is good. Most Technora-based covers work well for this purpose.

Pro Tip No. 2: On boats with asymmetric spinnakers I like to connect the ‘Y’ sheet with a soft shackle that also goes to the spinnaker. This saves weight. I sew a Velcro strip around one part of the shackle (see picture) so that the soft shackle stays with the ‘Y’ sheet when open. This is beneficial when you have to quickly disconnect or re-run a sheet, replace one sheet, or even quickly replace a soft shackle. On most boats I will keep one spare spinnaker sheet with soft shackle down below as a spare side, changing sheet, or code zero sheet. On boats with a symmetric spinnaker, we’ll splice the spinnaker sheet to the afterguy shackle to save weight in the clew.

The spinnaker halyard has a couple of more options. For halyards supporting code zeros, zero stretch is important. The same principals we used when talking about the jib halyard apply here. For boats without code zeros, I like a little softer halyard with a touch of give. Those tend to run though sheaves better without kinking. Enduro and Warpseed are good for these applications. Most bowmen prefer a shackle that is quick and easy to open. Since a happy bowman is a good thing, I will generally use an appropriately sized Tylaska shackle or dogbone style shackle for those halyards

For symmetric spinnaker boats, the afterguy must be very low stretch line. I go back to products like covered Vectran for club-level sheets. I also find that afterguys generally last longer if I don’t taper them.  When the pole is squared back, the afterguys often run pretty hard across the lifelines, producing a fair amount of chafe. Covered lines help minimize that. 

For tack lines on asymmetric boats, I like matching spinnaker halyard material on club-level boats and using low-stretch heat-set Dyneema cores with a chafe resistant cover for grand prix and sportboats.

Like the headsail halyard, a near-zero stretch main halyard is also important. For me the same line applications apply. Keep the mainsail head at full hoist at all costs. I will often match the material I use for main and jib halyards.

It is most important that the main sheet sit in the winch jaws well and tail perfectly. This is a strict combination of sizing and pliability. I’ve found that the New England Ropes Enduro braid and the Samson Warpspeed II work well for club-level boats with and without winches. For a slightly longer lasting product with some chafe resistance, try any manufacturer’s Technora-based covered line.

The most under-appreciated and least thought about rope on a boat always seems to be the outhaul. The last thing you want when the wind comes up is for your mainsail to get fuller. Spend some time here and use very low-stretch rope. Most heat-set Dyneemas will work great for the gross tune side of the purchase.

Pro Tip No. 3: Minimizing the last purchase of an outhaul greatly increases the ease with which it can be pulled on or eased out. For example, you could have a 6-to-1 to one pulling a 2-to-1, pulling a 2-to-1 and then to the sail for a 24-to-1. Or, better yet, you could have a 4-to-1 pulling a 3-to-1, pulling a 2-to-1 for a 24-to-1 as well. The latter example will work better. Trust me. I’m a doctor . . . sort of. We built an outhaul like this on a SC50. I can pull it on upwind in heavy air with little problem. On the flip side, in light air downwind, it eases just as well.   In fact, if memory serves me right, we did a 3-to-1 in the end rather than the 4-to-1 for a total of 18-to-1 and it worked well.

Runners and backstays should have extremely low stretch. A pumping mast and sagging forestay in breeze isn’t fast. Runner tails, like the mainsheet, should perfectly fit the winch and tail easily without kinking.

With so many options readily on the market now, it can be very confusing. I always recommend contacting your local rigger if you have any questions at all about what rope is right for you. They’ll get you pulling in the right direction.

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Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

What are the different types of sail rig? The sail rig is determined by the number of masts and the layout and shape of sails. Most modern ships are fore-and-aft rigged, while old ships are square-rigged. Rigs with one mast are sloops and cutters. Ketches, yawls, brigs, and schooners have two masts. Barques have three masts. Rigs can contain up to seven masts.

'Yeah, that's a gaff brig, and that a Bermuda cutter' - If you don't know what this means (neither did I) and want to know what to call a two-masted ship with a square-rigged mainsail, this article is definitely for you.

On this page:

More info on sail rig types, mast configurations and rig types, rigs with one mast, rigs with two masts, rigs with three masts, related questions.

This article is part 2 of my series on sails and rig types. Part 1 is all about the different types of sails. If you want to know everything there is to know about sails once and for all, I really recommend you read it. It gives a good overview of sail types and is easy to understand.

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

First of all, what is a sail rig? A sail rig is the way in which the sails are attached to the mast(s). In other words, it's the setup or configuration of the sailboat. The rig consists of the sail and mast hardware. The sail rig and sail type are both part of the sail plan. We usually use the sail rig type to refer to the type of boat.

Let's start by taking a look at the most commonly used modern sail rigs. Don't worry if you don't exactly understand what's going on. At the end of this article, you'll understand everything about rig types.

The sail rig and sail plan are often used interchangeably. When we talk of the sail rig we usually mean the sail plan . Although they are not quite the same. A sail plan is the set of drawings by the naval architect that shows the different combinations of sails and how they are set up for different weather conditions. For example a light air sail plan, storm sail plan, and the working sail plan (which is used most of the time).

So let's take a look at the three things that make up the sail plan.

The 3 things that make up the sail plan

I want to do a quick recap of my previous article. A sail plan is made up of:

• Mast configuration - refers to the number of masts and where they are placed
• Sail type - refers to the sail shape and functionality
• Rig type - refers to the way these sails are set up on your boat

I'll explore the most common rig types in detail later in this post. I've also added pictures to learn to recognize them more easily. ( Click here to skip to the section with pictures ).

How to recognize the sail plan?

So how do you know what kind of boat you're dealing with? If you want to determine what the rig type of a boat is, you need to look at these three things:

• Check the number of masts, and how they are set up.
• You look at the type of sails used (the shape of the sails, how many there are, and what functionality they have).
• And you have to determine the rig type, which means the way the sails are set up.

Below I'll explain each of these factors in more detail.

The most common rig types on sailboats

To give you an idea of the most-used sail rigs, I'll quickly summarize some sail plans below and mention the three things that make up their sail plan.

• Bermuda sloop - one mast, one mainsail, one headsail, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff cutter - one mast, one mainsail, two staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff schooner - two-masted (foremast), two mainsails, staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff ketch - two-masted (mizzen), two mainsails, staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Full-rigged ship or tall ship - three or more masts, mainsail on each mast, staysails, square-rigged

The first word is the shape and rigging of the mainsail. So this is the way the sail is attached to the mast. I'll go into this later on. The second word refers to the mast setup and amount of sails used.

Most sailboats are Bermuda sloops. Gaff-rigged sails are mostly found on older, classic boats. Square-rigged sails are generally not used anymore.

But first I want to discuss the three factors that make up the sail plan in more detail.

Ways to rig sails

There are basically two ways to rig sails:

• From side to side, called Square-rigged sails - the classic pirate sails
• From front to back, called Fore-and-aft rigged sails - the modern sail rig

Almost all boats are fore-and-aft rigged nowadays.

Square sails are good for running downwind, but they're pretty useless when you're on an upwind tack. These sails were used on Viking longships, for example. Their boats were quicker downwind than the boats with fore-and-aft rigged sails, but they didn't handle as well.

The Arabs first used fore-and-aft rigged sails, making them quicker in difficult wind conditions.

Quick recap from part 1: the reason most boats are fore-and-aft rigged today is the increased maneuverability of this configuration. A square-rigged ship is only good for downwind runs, but a fore-and-aft rigged ship can sail close to the wind, using the lift to move forward.

The way the sails are attached to the mast determines the shape of the sail. The square-rigged sails are always attached the same way to the mast. The fore-and-aft rig, however, has a lot of variations.

The three main sail rigs are:

• Bermuda rig - most used - has a three-sided (triangular) mainsail
• Gaff rig - has a four-sided mainsail, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff
• Lateen rig - has a three-sided (triangular) mainsail on a long yard

The Bermuda is the most used, the gaff is a bit old-fashioned, and the lateen rig is outdated (about a thousand years). Lateen rigs were used by the Moors. The Bermuda rig is actually based on the Lateen rig (the Dutch got inspired by the Moors).

Other rig types that are not very common anymore are:

• Junk rig - has horizontal battens to control the sail
• Settee rig - Lateen with the front corner cut off
• Crabclaw rig

Mast configuration

Okay, we know the shape of the mainsail. Now it's time to take a look at the mast configuration. The first thing is the number of masts:

• one-masted boats
• two-masted boats
• three-masted boats
• four masts or up
• full or ship-rigged boats - also called 'ships' or 'tall ships'

I've briefly mentioned the one and two mast configurations in part 1 of this article. In this part, I'll also go over the three-masted configurations, and the tall ships as well.

A boat with one mast has a straightforward configuration because there's just one mast. You can choose to carry more sails or less, but that's about it.

A boat with two masts or more gets interesting. When you add a mast, it means you have to decide where to put the extra mast: in front, or in back of the mainmast. You can also choose whether or not the extra mast will carry an extra mainsail. The placement and size of the extra mast are important in determining what kind of boat we're dealing with. So you start by locating the largest mast, which is always the mainmast.

From front to back: the first mast is called the foremast. The middle mast is called the mainmast. And the rear mast is called the mizzenmast.

What is the mizzenmast? The mizzenmast is the aft-most (rear) mast on a sailboat with three or more masts or the mast behind the mainmast on a boat with two masts. The mizzenmast carries the mizzen sail. On a two-masted boat, the mizzenmast is always (slightly) smaller than the mainmast. What is the purpose of the mizzen sail? The mizzen sail provides more sail area and flexibility in sail plan. It can be used as a big wind rudder, helping the sailor to have more control over the stern of the ship. It pushes the stern away from the wind and forces the bow in the opposite way. This may help to bring the bow into the wind when at anchor.

I always look at the number of masts first, because this is the easiest to spot. So to make this stuff more easy to understand, I've divided up the rig types based on the number of masts below.

Why would you want more masts and sail anyways?

Good question. The biggest advantage of two masts compared to one (let's say a ketch compared to a sloop), is that it allows you to use multiple smaller sails to get the same sail area. It also allows for shorter masts.

This means you reduce the stress on the rigging and the masts, which makes the ketch rig safer and less prone to wear and tear. It also doesn't capsize as quickly. So there are a couple of real advantages of a ketch rig over a sloop rig.

In the case of one mast, we look at the number of sails it carries.

Boats with one mast can have either one sail, two sails, or three or more sails.

Most single-masted boats are sloops, which means one mast with two sails (mainsail + headsail). The extra sail increases maneuverability. The mainsail gives you control over the stern, while the headsail gives you control over the bow.

Sailor tip: you steer a boat using its sails, not using its rudder.

The one-masted rigs are:

• Cat - one mast, one sail
• Sloop - one mast, two sails
• Cutter - one mast, three or more sails

The cat is the simplest sail plan and has one mast with one sail. It's easy to handle alone, so it's very popular as a fishing boat. Most (very) small sailboats are catboats, like the Sunfish, and many Laser varieties. But it has a limited sail area and doesn't give you the control and options you have with more sails.

The most common sail plan is the sloop. It has one mast and two sails: the main and headsail. Most sloops have a Bermuda mainsail. It's one of the best racing rigs because it's able to sail very close to the wind (also called 'weatherly'). It's one of the fastest rig types for upwind sailing.

It's a simple sail plan that allows for high performance, and you can sail it short-handed. That's why most sailboats you see today are (Bermuda) sloops.

This rig is also called the Marconi rig, and it was developed by a Dutch Bermudian (or a Bermudian Dutchman) - someone from Holland who lived on Bermuda.

A cutter has three or more sails. Usually, the sail plan looks a lot like the sloop, but it has three headsails instead of one. Naval cutters can carry up to 6 sails.

Cutters have larger sail area, so they are better in light air. The partition of the sail area into more smaller sails give you more control in heavier winds as well. Cutters are considered better for bluewater sailing than sloops (although sloops will do fine also). But the additional sails just give you a bit more to play with.

Two-masted boats can have an extra mast in front or behind the mainmast. If the extra mast is behind (aft of) the mainmast, it's called a mizzenmast . If it's in front of the mainmast, it's called a foremast .

If you look at a boat with two masts and it has a foremast, it's most likely either a schooner or a brig. It's easy to recognize a foremast: the foremast is smaller than the aft mast.

If the aft mast is smaller than the front mast, it is a sail plan with a mizzenmast. That means the extra mast has been placed at the back of the boat. In this case, the front mast isn't the foremast, but the mainmast. Boats with two masts that have a mizzenmast are most likely a yawl or ketch.

The two-masted rigs are:

• Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (a cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts
• Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast is much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without a mainsail.
• Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller mizzen. Mizzen has mainsail.
• Schooner - two masts (foremast), generally gaff rig on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller foremast. Sometimes build with three masts, up to seven in the age of sail.
• Bilander - two masts (foremast). Has a lateen-rigged mainsail and square-rigged sails on the foremast and topsails.
• Brig - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. The main mast carries small lateen-rigged sail.

The yawl has two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged and a mizzenmast. The mizzenmast is much shorter than the mainmast, and it doesn't carry a mainsail. The mizzenmast is located aft of the rudder and is mainly used to increase helm balance.

A ketch has two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged. The extra mast is a mizzenmast. It's nearly as tall as the mainmast and carries a mainsail. Usually, the mainsails of the ketch are gaff-rigged, but there are Bermuda-rigged ketches too. The mizzenmast is located in front of the rudder instead of aft, as on the yawl.

The function of the ketch's mizzen sail is different from that of the yawl. It's actually used to drive the boat forward, and the mizzen sail, together with the headsail, are sufficient to sail the ketch. The mizzen sail on a yawl can't really drive the boat forward.

Schooners have two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged. The extra mast is a foremast which is generally smaller than the mainmast, but it does carry a mainsail. Schooners are also built with a lot more masts, up to seven (not anymore). The schooner's mainsails are generally gaff-rigged.

The schooner is easy to sail but not very fast. It handles easier than a sloop, except for upwind, and it's only because of better technology that sloops are now more popular than the schooner.

The brig has two masts. The foremast is always square-rigged. The mainmast can be square-rigged or is partially square-rigged. Some brigs carry a lateen mainsail on the mainmast, with square-rigged topsails.

Some variations on the brig are:

Brigantine - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Mainmast carries no square-rigged mainsail.

Hermaphrodite brig - also called half brig or schooner brig. Has two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Mainmast carries a gaff rig mainsail and topsail, making it half schooner.

Three-masted boats are mostly barques or schooners. Sometimes sail plans with two masts are used with more masts.

The three-masted rigs are:

• Barque - three masts, fore, and mainmast are square-rigged, the mizzenmast is usually gaff-rigged. All masts carry mainsail.
• Barquentine - three masts, foremast is square-rigged, the main and mizzenmast are fore-and-aft rigged. Also called the schooner barque.
• Polacca - three masts, foremast is square-rigged, the main and mizzenmast are lateen-rigged.
• Xebec - three masts, all masts are lateen-rigged.

A barque has three or four masts. The fore and mainmast are square-rigged, and the mizzen fore-and-aft, usually gaff-rigged. Carries a mainsail on each mast, but the mainsail shape differs per mast (square or gaff). Barques were built with up to five masts. Four-masted barques were quite common.

Barques were a good alternative to full-rigged ships because they require a lot fewer sailors. But they were also slower. Very popular rig for ocean crossings, so a great rig for merchants who travel long distances and don't want 30 - 50 sailors to run their ship.

Barquentine

The barquentine usually has three masts. The foremast is square-rigged and the main and mizzenmast fore-and-aft. The rear masts are usually gaff-rigged.

Faster than a barque or a schooner, but the performance is worse than both.

The polacca or polacre rig has three masts with a square-rigged foremast. The main and mizzenmast are lateen-rigged. Beautiful boat to see. Polacca literally means 'Polish' (it's Italian). It was a popular rig type in the Mediterranean in the 17th century. It looks like the xebec, which has three lateen-rigged masts.

Fun fact: polaccas were used by a Dutch sailor-turned-Turkish-pirate (called Murat Reis).

The xebec is a Mediterranean trading ship with three masts. All masts are lateen-rigged. I couldn't find any surviving xebecs, only models and paintings. So I guess this rig is outdated a long time.

A boat with three or more masts that all carry square-rigged sails is called a ship, a tall ship, or a full-rigged ship. So it's at this point that we start calling boats 'ships'. It has nothing to do with size but with the type of rigging.

More sails mean less stress on all of them. These ships use a lot of sails to distribute the forces, which reduces the stress on the rigging and the masts. Square sails mean double the sail area in comparison to triangular sails.

They are quite fast for their size, and they could outrun most sloops and schooners (schooners were relatively a lot heavier). The reason is that tall ships could be a lot longer than sloops, giving them a lot of extra hull speed. Sloops couldn't be as large because there weren't strong enough materials available. Try making a single triangular sail with a sail area of over 500 sq. ft. from linen.

So a lot of smaller sails made sense. You could have a large ship with a good maximum hull speed, without your sails ripping apart with every gust of wind.

But you need A LOT of sailors to sail a tall ship: about 30 sailors in total to ie. reef down sails and operate the ship. That's really a lot.

Tall ships are used nowadays for racing, with the popular tall ship races traveling the world. Every four years I go and check them out when they are at Harlingen (which is very close to where I live).

Check out the amazing ships in this video of the tall ship races last year near my hometown. (The event was organized by friends of mine).

What is the difference between a schooner and a sloop? A schooner has two masts, whereas the sloop only has one. The schooner carries more sails, with a mainsail on both masts. Also, sloops are usually Bermuda-rigged, whereas schooners are usually gaff-rigged. Most schooners also carry one or two additional headsails, in contrast to the single jib of the sloop.

What do you call a two-masted sailboat? A two-masted sailboat is most likely a yawl, ketch, schooner, or brig. To determine which one it is you have to locate the mainmast (the tallest). At the rear: schooner or brig. In front: yawl or ketch. Brigs have a square-rigged foremast, schooners don't. Ketches carry a mainsail on the rear mast; yawls don't.

What is a sloop rig? A sloop rig is a sailboat with one mast and two sails: a mainsail and headsail. It's a simple sail plan that handles well and offers good upwind performance. The sloop rig can be sailed shorthanded and is able to sail very close to the wind, making it very popular. Most recreational sailboats use a sloop rig.

What is the difference between a ketch and a yawl? The most important difference between a ketch and a yawl are the position and height of the mizzenmast. The mizzenmast on a yawl is located aft of the rudder, is shorter than the mainmast and doesn't carry a mainsail. On a ketch, it's nearly as long as the mainmast and carries a mainsail.

There are a wonderful lots of DIY changeability shows on the cable airwaves these days.

Rick the rigger

There are SO many errors on this site it really should be taken down.

First major mistake is to say you are no longer afraid of the sea.

One that truly gets up my nose is the term ‘fully’ rigged ship. It’s a FULL rigged ship!! Your mast names are the wrong way round and just because there may be 3 it doesn’t automatically mean the one in the middle is the main.

I could go on and totally destroy your over inflated but fragile ego but I won’t. All I will say is go learn a lot more before posting.

Shawn Buckles

Thanks for your feedback. If you like to point out anything more specific, please let me know and I will update the articles. I’ve changed fully-rigged to full-rigged ship - which is a typo on my part. I try to be as concise as I can, but, obviously, we all make mistakes every now and then. The great thing about the internet is that we can learn from each other and update our knowledge together.

If you want to write yourself and share your knowledge, please consider applying as a writer for my blog by clicking on the top banner.

Thanks, Shawn

Well, I feel that I’ve learned a bit from this. The information is clear and well laid out. Is it accurate? I can’t see anything at odds with the little I knew before, except that I understood a xebec has a square rigged centre mainmast, such as the Pelican ( https://www.adventureundersail.com/ )

Hi, Shawn, You forgot (failed) to mention another type of rig? The oldest type of rig known and still functions today JUNK RIG!

Why are so many of the comments here negative. I think it is wonderful to share knowledge and learn together. I knew a little about the subject (I’m an Aubrey-Maturin fan!) but still found this clarified some things for me. I can’t comment therefore on the accuracy of the article, but it seems clear to me that the spirit of the author is positive. We owe you some more bonhomme I suggest Shawn.

As they say in the Navy: “BZ” - for a good article.

Been reading S.M. Stirling and wanted to understand the ship types he references. Thank you, very helpful.

This site is an awesome starting point for anyone who would like to get an overview of the subject. I am gratefull to Shawn for sharing - Thanks & Kudos to you! If the negative reviewers want to get a deeper technical knowledge that is accurate to the n-th then go study the appropriate material. Contribute rather than destroy another’s good work. Well done Shawn. Great job!

Good stuff Shawn - very helpful. As a novice, it’s too confusing to figure out in bits and pieces. Thanks for laying it out.

First of all I have to say that Rick ‘the rigger’ is obviously the one with the “over inflated but fragile ego” and I laughed when you suggested he share his knowledge on your blog, well played!

As for the content it’s great, hope to read more soon!

Alec Lowenthal

Shawn, I have a painting of a Spanish vessel, two masted, with. Lateen sails on both masts and a jib. The mainsail is ahead of the main mast (fore) and the other is aft of the mizzen mast. Would this be what you call lugger rig? I have not seen a similar picture. Thanks, Alec.

Thank you for your article I found easy to read and understand, and more importantly remember, which emphasises the well written.. Pity about the negative comments, but love your proactive responses!

This vessel, “SEBASTIAN” out of Garrucha, Almería, España, was painted by Gustave Gillman in 1899.

Sorry, picture not accepted!

Thank you for a very informative article. I sail a bit and am always looking for more knowledge. I like the way you put forth your info and I feel if you can’t say anything positive, then that person should have their own blog or keep their opinions to their-self. I will be looking for more from you. I salute your way of dealing with negative comments.

Thank you for a great intro to sailing boats! I searched different sailboats because I use old sails tp make bags and wanted to learn the difference. Way more than I ever expected. Thanks for all the work put in to teach the rest of us.

Your description of a cutter is lacking, and your illustrations of “cutters” are actually cutter-rigged sloops. On a true cutter, the mast is moved further aft (with more than 40% of the ship forward of the mast). A sloop uses tension in the backstay to tension the luff of the foresail. The cutter can’t do this.

Also, a bermuda-rigged ketch will have a line running from the top of the mainmast to the top of the mizzenmast.

wow great guide to rig types! thanks

Interesting guide, however I am confused about the description of the brig. You say the main mast on a brig can have a lateen sail, but in your picture it looks like a gaff sail to me. How is it a lateen sail?

Hi Shawn, thank you for taking the time to share this information. It is clear and very helpful. I am new to sailing and thinking of buying my own blue water yacht. The information you have supplied is very useful. I still am seeking more information on performance and safety. Please keep up the good work. Best Regards

mickey fanelli

I’m starting to repair a model sailboat used in the lake I have three masts that have long been broken off and the sails need replacement. So my question is there a special relationship between the three masts I do have reminents of where the masts should go. they all broke off the boat along with the sails I can figure out where they go because of the old glue marks but it makes no sense. or does it really matter on a model thank you mickey

Cool, total novice here. I have learnt a lot. Thanks for sharing - the diagrams along with the text make it really easy to understand, especially for a beginner who hasn’t even stepped on a sailing boat.

Daryl Beatt

Thank you. Cleared up quite a few things for me. For example, I was familiar with the names “Xebecs” and “Polaccas” from recent reading about the Barbary War. I had gathered that the two Barbary types were better suited to sailing in the Med, but perhaps they were less able to be adaptable to military uses,(but one might assume that would be ok if one plans to board and fight, as opposed to fight a running gun duel). Specifically, the strangely one sided August 1, 1801 battle between the USS Enterprise under Lt. John Sterett and the Polacca cruiser Tripoli under Admiral Rais Mahomet Rous. On paper both ships seemed nearly equal in size, guns and crew, but pictures of the battle are confusing. While the Enterprise is usually rendered as the familiar schooner, the polacca Tripoli has been pictured in radically different ways. Thus the Wikipedia picture by Hoff in 1878 used to illustrate the Battle shows a Brig design for Tripoli, indicating 77 years later, polaccas were no longer common.

Lee Christiansen

I am curious as to what you would call a modern race boat with a fractional jib,not equipped for full masthead hoist? Thanks Lee

Thanks Guy: The information and pictures really eliminate a lot of the mystery of the terminology and the meanings. Also appreciate the insight of the handling idiosyncrasies “hand” (staff) requirements to manage a vessel for one that has not been on the water much. I long to spend significant time afloat, but have concern about the ability to handle a vessel due to advancing age. The Significant Other prefers to sit (in AC comfort)and be entertained by parties of cruise line employees. Thanks again for the information.

Gordon Smith

Your discussion made no mention of the galleon, a vessel with either square-rigged Fore and Main masts and a shorter lateen-rigged Mizzen, or, on larger galleons, square-rigged Fore and Main masts, with a lateen-rigged Mizzen and a lateen-rigged Bonaventure mast, both shorter than either the Fore or Main masts. Also, it was not uncommon for a galleon to hoist a square-rigged bowsprit topsail in addition to the usual square-rigged spritsail.

Emma Delaney

As a hobbyist, I was hesitant to invest in expensive CAD software, but CADHOBBY IntelliCAD has proven to be a cost-effective alternative that delivers the same quality and performance.

https://www.cadhobby.com/

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Beginner’s Guide: How To Rig A Sailboat – Step By Step Tutorial

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Rigging a sailboat is a crucial process that ensures the proper setup and functioning of a sailboat’s various components. Understanding the process and components involved in rigging is essential for any sailor or boat enthusiast. In this article, we will provide a comprehensive guide on how to rig a sailboat.

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Understanding the Components of a Sailboat Rigging

Before diving into the rigging process, it is important to have a good understanding of the key components involved. These components include:

The mast is the tall vertical spar that provides vertical support to the sails and holds them in place.

The boom is the horizontal spar that runs along the bottom edge of the sail and helps control the shape and position of the sail.

• Standing Rigging:

Standing rigging consists of the wires and cables that support and stabilize the mast, keeping it upright.

• Running Rigging:

Running rigging refers to the lines and ropes used to control the sails, such as halyards, sheets, and control lines.

Preparing to Rig a Sailboat

Before rigging a sailboat, there are a few important steps to take. These include:

• Checking the Weather Conditions:

It is crucial to assess the weather conditions before rigging a sailboat. Unfavorable weather, such as high winds or storms, can make rigging unsafe.

• Gathering the Necessary Tools and Equipment:

Make sure to have all the necessary tools and equipment readily available before starting the rigging process. This may include wrenches, hammers, tape, and other common tools.

• Inspecting the Rigging Components:

In the upcoming sections of this article, we will provide a step-by-step guide on how to rig a sailboat, as well as important safety considerations and tips to keep in mind. By following these guidelines, you will be able to rig your sailboat correctly and safely, allowing for a smooth and enjoyable sailing experience.

Key takeaway:

• Rigging a sailboat maximizes efficiency: Proper rigging allows for optimized sailing performance, ensuring the boat moves smoothly through the water.
• Understanding sailboat rigging components: Familiarity with the various parts of a sailboat rigging, such as the mast, boom, and standing and running riggings, is essential for effective rigging setup.
• Importance of safety in sailboat rigging: Ensuring safety is crucial during the rigging process, including wearing a personal flotation device, securing loose ends and lines, and being mindful of overhead power lines.

Get ready to set sail and dive into the fascinating world of sailboat rigging! We’ll embark on a journey to understand the various components that make up a sailboat’s rigging. From the majestic mast to the nimble boom , and the intricate standing rigging to the dynamic running rigging , we’ll explore the crucial elements that ensure smooth sailing. Not forgetting the magnificent sail, which catches the wind and propels us forward. So grab your sea legs and let’s uncover the secrets of sailboat rigging together.

Understanding the mast is crucial when rigging a sailboat. Here are the key components and steps to consider:

1. The mast supports the sails and rigging of the sailboat. It is made of aluminum or carbon fiber .

2. Before stepping the mast , ensure that the area is clear and the boat is stable. Have all necessary tools and equipment ready.

3. Inspect the mast for damage or wear. Check for corrosion , loose fittings , and cracks . Address any issues before proceeding.

4. To step the mast , carefully lift it into an upright position and insert the base into the mast step on the deck of the sailboat.

5. Secure the mast using the appropriate rigging and fasteners . Attach the standing rigging , such as shrouds and stays , to the mast and the boat’s hull .

Fact: The mast of a sailboat is designed to withstand wind resistance and the tension of the rigging for stability and safe sailing.

The boom is an essential part of sailboat rigging. It is a horizontal spar that stretches from the mast to the aft of the boat. Constructed with durable yet lightweight materials like aluminum or carbon fiber, the boom provides crucial support and has control over the shape and position of the sail. It is connected to the mast through a boom gooseneck , allowing it to pivot. One end of the boom is attached to the mainsail, while the other end is equipped with a boom vang or kicker, which manages the tension and angle of the boom. When the sail is raised, the boom is also lifted and positioned horizontally by using the topping lift or lazy jacks.

An incident serves as a warning that emphasizes the significance of properly securing the boom. In strong winds, an improperly fastened boom swung across the deck, resulting in damage to the boat and creating a safety hazard. This incident highlights the importance of correctly installing and securely fastening all rigging components, including the boom, to prevent accidents and damage.

3. Standing Rigging

When rigging a sailboat, the standing rigging plays a vital role in providing stability and support to the mast . It consists of several key components, including the mast itself, along with the shrouds , forestay , backstay , and intermediate shrouds .

The mast, a vertical pole , acts as the primary support structure for the sails and the standing rigging. Connected to the top of the mast are the shrouds , which are cables or wires that extend to the sides of the boat, providing essential lateral support .

The forestay is another vital piece of the standing rigging. It is a cable or wire that runs from the top of the mast to the bow of the boat, ensuring forward support . Similarly, the backstay , also a cable or wire, runs from the mast’s top to the stern of the boat, providing important backward support .

To further enhance the rig’s stability , intermediate shrouds are installed. These additional cables or wires are positioned between the main shrouds, as well as the forestay or backstay. They offer extra support , strengthening the standing rigging system.

Regular inspections of the standing rigging are essential to detect any signs of wear, such as fraying or corrosion . It is crucial to ensure that all connections within the rig are tight and secure, to uphold its integrity. Should any issues be identified, immediate attention must be given to prevent accidents or damage to the boat. Prioritizing safety is of utmost importance when rigging a sailboat, thereby necessitating proper maintenance of the standing rigging. This ensures a safe and enjoyable sailing experience.

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4. Running Rigging

Running Rigging

When rigging a sailboat, the running rigging is essential for controlling the sails and adjusting their position. It is important to consider several aspects when dealing with the running rigging.

1. Choose the right rope: The running rigging typically consists of ropes with varying properties such as strength, stretch, and durability. Weather conditions and sailboat size should be considered when selecting the appropriate rope.

2. Inspect and maintain the running rigging: Regularly check for signs of wear, fraying, or damage. To ensure safety and efficiency, replace worn-out ropes.

3. Learn essential knot tying techniques: Having knowledge of knots like the bowline, cleat hitch, and reef knot is crucial for securing the running rigging and adjusting sails.

4. Understand different controls: The running rigging includes controls such as halyards, sheets, and control lines. Familiarize yourself with their functions and proper usage to effectively control sail position and tension.

5. Practice proper sail trimming: Adjusting the tension of the running rigging significantly affects sailboat performance. Mastering sail trimming techniques will help optimize sail shape and maximize speed.

By considering these factors and mastering running rigging techniques, you can enhance your sailing experience and ensure the safe operation of your sailboat.

The sail is the central component of sailboat rigging as it effectively harnesses the power of the wind to propel the boat.

When considering the sail, there are several key aspects to keep in mind:

– Material: Sails are typically constructed from durable and lightweight materials such as Dacron or polyester. These materials provide strength and resistance to various weather conditions.

– Shape: The shape of the sail plays a critical role in its overall performance. A well-shaped sail should have a smooth and aerodynamic profile, which allows for maximum efficiency in capturing wind power.

– Size: The size of the sail is determined by its sail area, which is measured in square feet or square meters. Larger sails have the ability to generate more power, but they require greater skill and experience to handle effectively.

– Reefing: Reefing is the process of reducing the sail’s size to adapt to strong winds. Sails equipped with reefing points allow sailors to decrease the sail area, providing better control in challenging weather conditions.

– Types: There are various types of sails, each specifically designed for different purposes. Common sail types include mainsails, jibs, genoas, spinnakers, and storm sails. Each type possesses its own unique characteristics and is utilized under specific wind conditions.

Understanding the sail and its characteristics is vital for sailors, as it directly influences the boat’s speed, maneuverability, and overall safety on the water.

Getting ready to rig a sailboat requires careful preparation and attention to detail. In this section, we’ll dive into the essential steps you need to take before setting sail. From checking the weather conditions to gathering the necessary tools and equipment, and inspecting the rigging components, we’ll ensure that you’re fully equipped to navigate the open waters with confidence. So, let’s get started on our journey to successfully rigging a sailboat!

1. Checking the Weather Conditions

Checking the weather conditions is crucial before rigging a sailboat for a safe and enjoyable sailing experience. Monitoring the wind speed is important in order to assess the ideal sailing conditions . By checking the wind speed forecast , you can determine if the wind is strong or light . Strong winds can make sailboat control difficult, while very light winds can result in slow progress.

Another important factor to consider is the wind direction . Assessing the wind direction is crucial for route planning and sail adjustment. Favorable wind direction helps propel the sailboat efficiently, making your sailing experience more enjoyable.

In addition to wind speed and direction, it is also important to consider weather patterns . Keep an eye out for impending storms or heavy rain. It is best to avoid sailing in severe weather conditions that may pose a safety risk. Safety should always be a top priority when venturing out on a sailboat.

Another aspect to consider is visibility . Ensure good visibility by checking for fog, haze, or any other conditions that may hinder navigation. Clear visibility is important for being aware of other boats and potential obstacles that may come your way.

Be aware of the local conditions . Take into account factors such as sea breezes, coastal influences, or tidal currents. These local factors greatly affect sailboat performance and safety. By considering all of these elements, you can have a successful and enjoyable sailing experience.

Here’s a true story to emphasize the importance of checking the weather conditions. One sunny afternoon, a group of friends decided to go sailing. Before heading out, they took the time to check the weather conditions. They noticed that the wind speed was expected to be around 10 knots, which was perfect for their sailboat. The wind direction was coming from the northwest, allowing for a pleasant upwind journey. With clear visibility and no approaching storms, they set out confidently, enjoying a smooth and exhilarating sail. This positive experience was made possible by their careful attention to checking the weather conditions beforehand.

2. Gathering the Necessary Tools and Equipment

To efficiently gather all of the necessary tools and equipment for rigging a sailboat, follow these simple steps:

• First and foremost, carefully inspect your toolbox to ensure that you have all of the basic tools such as wrenches, screwdrivers, and pliers.
• Make sure to check if you have a tape measure or ruler available as they are essential for precise measurements of ropes or cables.
• Don’t forget to include a sharp knife or rope cutter in your arsenal as they will come in handy for cutting ropes or cables to the desired lengths.
• Gather all the required rigging hardware including shackles, pulleys, cleats, and turnbuckles.
• It is always prudent to check for spare ropes or cables in case replacements are needed during the rigging process.
• If needed, consider having a sailing knife or marlinspike tool for splicing ropes or cables.
• For rigging a larger sailboat, it is crucial to have a mast crane or hoist to assist with stepping the mast.
• Ensure that you have a ladder or some other means of reaching higher parts of the sailboat, such as the top of the mast.

Once, during the preparation of rigging my sailboat, I had a moment of realization when I discovered that I had forgotten to bring a screwdriver . This unfortunate predicament occurred while I was in a remote location with no nearby stores. Being resourceful, I improvised by utilizing a multipurpose tool with a small knife blade, which served as a makeshift screwdriver. Although it was not the ideal solution, it allowed me to accomplish the task. Since that incident, I have learned the importance of double-checking my toolbox before commencing any rigging endeavor. This practice ensures that I have all of the necessary tools and equipment, preventing any unexpected surprises along the way.

3. Inspecting the Rigging Components

Inspecting the rigging components is essential for rigging a sailboat safely. Here is a step-by-step guide on inspecting the rigging components:

1. Visually inspect the mast, boom, and standing rigging for damage, such as corrosion, cracks, or loose fittings.

2. Check the tension of the standing rigging using a tension gauge. It should be within the recommended range from the manufacturer.

3. Examine the turnbuckles, clevis pins, and shackles for wear or deformation. Replace any damaged or worn-out hardware.

4. Inspect the running rigging, including halyards and sheets, for fraying, signs of wear, or weak spots. Replace any worn-out lines.

5. Check the sail for tears, wear, or missing hardware such as grommets or luff tape.

6. Pay attention to the connections between the standing rigging and the mast. Ensure secure connections without any loose or missing cotter pins or rigging screws.

7. Inspect all fittings, such as mast steps, spreader brackets, and tangs, to ensure they are securely fastened and in good condition.

8. Conduct a sea trial to assess the rigging’s performance and make necessary adjustments.

Regularly inspecting the rigging components is crucial for maintaining the sailboat’s rigging system’s integrity, ensuring safe sailing conditions, and preventing accidents or failures at sea.

Once, I went sailing on a friend’s boat without inspecting the rigging components beforehand. While at sea, a sudden gust of wind caused one of the shrouds to snap. Fortunately, no one was hurt, but we had to cut the sail loose and carefully return to the marina. This incident taught me the importance of inspecting the rigging components before sailing to avoid unforeseen dangers.

Step-by-Step Guide on How to Rig a Sailboat

Get ready to set sail with our step-by-step guide on rigging a sailboat ! We’ll take you through the process from start to finish, covering everything from stepping the mast to setting up the running rigging . Learn the essential techniques and tips for each sub-section, including attaching the standing rigging and installing the boom and sails . Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a beginner, this guide will have you ready to navigate the open waters with confidence .

1. Stepping the Mast

To step the mast of a sailboat, follow these steps:

1. Prepare the mast: Position the mast near the base of the boat.

2. Attach the base plate: Securely fasten the base plate to the designated area on the boat.

3. Insert the mast step: Lower the mast step into the base plate and align it with the holes or slots.

4. Secure the mast step: Use fastening screws or bolts to fix the mast step in place.

5. Raise the mast: Lift the mast upright with the help of one or more crew members.

6. Align the mast: Adjust the mast so that it is straight and aligned with the boat’s centerline.

7. Attach the shrouds: Connect the shrouds to the upper section of the mast, ensuring proper tension.

8. Secure the forestay: Attach the forestay to the bow of the boat, ensuring it is securely fastened.

9. Final adjustments: Check the tension of the shrouds and forestay, making any necessary rigging adjustments.

Following these steps ensures that the mast is properly stepped and securely in place, allowing for a safe and efficient rigging process. Always prioritize safety precautions and follow manufacturer guidelines for your specific sailboat model.

2. Attaching the Standing Rigging

To attach the standing rigging on a sailboat, commence by preparing the essential tools and equipment, including wire cutters, crimping tools, and turnbuckles.

Next, carefully inspect the standing rigging components for any indications of wear or damage.

After inspection, fasten the bottom ends of the shrouds and stays to the chainplates on the deck.

Then, securely affix the top ends of the shrouds and stays to the mast using adjustable turnbuckles .

To ensure proper tension, adjust the turnbuckles accordingly until the mast is upright and centered.

Utilize a tension gauge to measure the tension in the standing rigging, aiming for around 15-20% of the breaking strength of the rigging wire.

Double-check all connections and fittings to verify their security and proper tightness.

It is crucial to regularly inspect the standing rigging for any signs of wear or fatigue and make any necessary adjustments or replacements.

By diligently following these steps, you can effectively attach the standing rigging on your sailboat, ensuring its stability and safety while on the water.

3. Installing the Boom and Sails

To successfully complete the installation of the boom and sails on a sailboat, follow these steps:

1. Begin by securely attaching the boom to the mast. Slide it into the gooseneck fitting and ensure it is firmly fastened using a boom vang or another appropriate mechanism.

2. Next, attach the main sail to the boom. Slide the luff of the sail into the mast track and securely fix it in place using sail slides or cars.

3. Connect the mainsheet to the boom. One end should be attached to the boom while the other end is connected to a block or cleat on the boat.

4. Proceed to attach the jib or genoa. Make sure to securely attach the hanks or furler line to the forestay to ensure stability.

5. Connect the jib sheets. One end of each jib sheet should be attached to the clew of the jib or genoa, while the other end is connected to a block or winch on the boat.

6. Before setting sail, it is essential to thoroughly inspect all lines and connections. Ensure that they are properly tensioned and that all connections are securely fastened.

During my own experience of installing the boom and sails on my sailboat, I unexpectedly encountered a strong gust of wind. As a result, the boom began swinging uncontrollably, requiring me to quickly secure it to prevent any damage. This particular incident served as a vital reminder of the significance of properly attaching and securing the boom, as well as the importance of being prepared for unforeseen weather conditions while rigging a sailboat.

4. Setting Up the Running Rigging

Setting up the running rigging on a sailboat involves several important steps. First, attach the halyard securely to the head of the sail. Then, connect the sheets to the clew of the sail. If necessary, make sure to secure the reefing lines . Attach the outhaul line to the clew of the sail and connect the downhaul line to the tack of the sail. It is crucial to ensure that all lines are properly cleated and organized. Take a moment to double-check the tension and alignment of each line. If you are using a roller furling system, carefully wrap the line around the furling drum and securely fasten it. Perform a thorough visual inspection of the running rigging to check for any signs of wear or damage. Properly setting up the running rigging is essential for safe and efficient sailing. It allows for precise control of the sail’s position and shape, ultimately optimizing the boat’s performance on the water.

Safety Considerations and Tips

When it comes to rigging a sailboat, safety should always be our top priority. In this section, we’ll explore essential safety considerations and share some valuable tips to ensure smooth sailing. From the importance of wearing a personal flotation device to securing loose ends and lines, and being cautious around overhead power lines, we’ll equip you with the knowledge and awareness needed for a safe and enjoyable sailing experience. So, let’s set sail and dive into the world of safety on the water!

1. Always Wear a Personal Flotation Device

When rigging a sailboat, it is crucial to prioritize safety and always wear a personal flotation device ( PFD ). Follow these steps to properly use a PFD:

• Select the appropriate Coast Guard-approved PFD that fits your size and weight.
• Put on the PFD correctly by placing your arms through the armholes and securing all the straps for a snug fit .
• Adjust the PFD for comfort , ensuring it is neither too tight nor too loose, allowing freedom of movement and adequate buoyancy .
• Regularly inspect the PFD for any signs of wear or damage, such as tears or broken straps, and replace any damaged PFDs immediately .
• Always wear your PFD when on or near the water, even if you are a strong swimmer .

By always wearing a personal flotation device and following these steps, you will ensure your safety and reduce the risk of accidents while rigging a sailboat. Remember, prioritize safety when enjoying water activities.

2. Secure Loose Ends and Lines

Inspect lines and ropes for frayed or damaged areas. Secure loose ends and lines with knots or appropriate cleats or clamps. Ensure all lines are properly tensioned to prevent loosening during sailing. Double-check all connections and attachments for security. Use additional safety measures like extra knots or stopper knots to prevent line slippage.

To ensure a safe sailing experience , it is crucial to secure loose ends and lines properly . Neglecting this important step can lead to accidents or damage to the sailboat. By inspecting, securing, and tensioning lines , you can have peace of mind knowing that everything is in place. Replace or repair any compromised lines or ropes promptly. Securing loose ends and lines allows for worry-free sailing trips .

3. Be Mindful of Overhead Power Lines

When rigging a sailboat, it is crucial to be mindful of overhead power lines for safety. It is important to survey the area for power lines before rigging the sailboat. Maintain a safe distance of at least 10 feet from power lines. It is crucial to avoid hoisting tall masts or long antenna systems near power lines to prevent contact. Lower the mast and tall structures when passing under a power line to minimize the risk of contact. It is also essential to be cautious in areas where power lines run over the water and steer clear to prevent accidents.

A true story emphasizes the importance of being mindful of overhead power lines. In this case, a group of sailors disregarded safety precautions and their sailboat’s mast made contact with a low-hanging power line, resulting in a dangerous electrical shock. Fortunately, no serious injuries occurred, but it serves as a stark reminder of the need to be aware of power lines while rigging a sailboat.

Some Facts About How To Rig A Sailboat:

• ✅ Small sailboat rigging projects can improve sailing performance and save money. (Source: stingysailor.com)
• ✅ Rigging guides are available for small sailboats, providing instructions and tips for rigging. (Source: westcoastsailing.net)
• ✅ Running rigging includes lines used to control and trim the sails, such as halyards and sheets. (Source: sailingellidah.com)
• ✅ Hardware used in sailboat rigging includes winches, blocks, and furling systems. (Source: sailingellidah.com)
• ✅ A step-by-step guide can help beginners rig a small sailboat for sailing. (Source: tripsavvy.com)

Frequently Asked Questions

1. how do i rig a small sailboat.

To rig a small sailboat, follow these steps: – Install or check the rudder, ensuring it is firmly attached. – Attach or check the tiller, the long steering arm mounted to the rudder. – Attach the jib halyard by connecting the halyard shackle to the head of the sail and the grommet in the tack to the bottom of the forestay. – Hank on the jib by attaching the hanks of the sail to the forestay one at a time. – Run the jib sheets by tying or shackling them to the clew of the sail and running them back to the cockpit. – Attach the mainsail by spreading it out and attaching the halyard shackle to the head of the sail. – Secure the tack, clew, and foot of the mainsail to the boom using various lines and mechanisms. – Insert the mainsail slugs into the mast groove, gradually raising the mainsail as the slugs are inserted. – Cleat the main halyard and lower the centerboard into the water. – Raise the jib by pulling down on the jib halyard and cleating it on the other side of the mast. – Tighten the mainsheet and one jibsheet to adjust the sails and start moving forward.

2. What are the different types of sailboat rigs?

Sailboat rigs can be classified into three main types: – Sloop rig: This rig has a single mast with a mainsail and a headsail, typically a jib or genoa. – Cutter rig: This rig has two headsails, a smaller jib or staysail closer to the mast, and a larger headsail, usually a genoa, forward of it, alongside a mainsail. – Ketch rig: This rig has two masts, with the main mast taller than the mizzen mast. It usually has a mainsail, headsail, and a mizzen sail. Each rig has distinct characteristics and is suitable for different sailing conditions and preferences.

3. What are the essential parts of a sailboat?

The essential parts of a sailboat include: – Mast: The tall vertical spar that supports the sails. – Boom: The horizontal spar connected to the mast, which extends outward and supports the foot of the mainsail. – Rudder: The underwater appendage that steers the boat. – Centerboard or keel: A retractable or fixed fin-like structure that provides stability and prevents sideways drift. – Sails: The fabric structures that capture the wind’s energy to propel the boat. – Running rigging: The lines or ropes used to control the sails and sailing equipment. – Standing rigging: The wires and cables that support the mast and reinforce the spars. These are the basic components necessary for the functioning of a sailboat.

4. What is a spinnaker halyard?

A spinnaker halyard is a line used to hoist and control a spinnaker sail. The spinnaker is a large, lightweight sail that is used for downwind sailing or reaching in moderate to strong winds. The halyard attaches to the head of the spinnaker and is used to raise it to the top of the mast. Once hoisted, the spinnaker halyard can be adjusted to control the tension and shape of the sail.

5. Why is it important to maintain and replace worn running rigging?

It is important to maintain and replace worn running rigging for several reasons: – Safety: Worn or damaged rigging can compromise the integrity and stability of the boat, posing a safety risk to both crew and vessel. – Performance: Worn rigging can affect the efficiency and performance of the sails, diminishing the boat’s speed and maneuverability. – Reliability: Aging or worn rigging is more prone to failure, which can lead to unexpected problems and breakdowns. Regular inspection and replacement of worn running rigging is essential to ensure the safe and efficient operation of a sailboat.

6. Where can I find sailboat rigging books or guides?

There are several sources where you can find sailboat rigging books or guides: – Online: Websites such as West Coast Sailing and Stingy Sailor offer downloadable rigging guides for different sailboat models. – Bookstores: Many bookstores carry a wide selection of boating and sailing books, including those specifically focused on sailboat rigging. – Sailing schools and clubs: Local sailing schools or yacht clubs often have resources available for learning about sailboat rigging. – Manufacturers: Some sailboat manufacturers, like Hobie Cat and RS Sailing, provide rigging guides for their specific sailboat models. Consulting these resources can provide valuable information and instructions for rigging your sailboat properly.

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Running Rigging for Cruising Sailors

• By Bruce Bingham
• Updated: October 15, 2020

During my 75 years of sailing, I’ve become aware of the chasm between cruisers and racers. But I’ve never understood it because I have always been both. Even when I cruise, I’m racing—against changing weather, the need to get home in time for dinner, whatever. What that really means is that I’m determined to get the most speed out of my boat at all times. And to do so means having excellent running-rigging systems.

There are three issues in play when deciding on whether to install or upgrade your running rigging. First, do you want to increase your ease and convenience when adjusting sail trim? Second, are you willing to add lengths of line (as well as lengths of time) to make sail-trim adjustments? And last, how much investment are you willing to make to reach your sail-handling (i.e., running-rigging) goals?

I can scratch only the surface of this complicated topic and not present a ­comprehensive guide to all systems and conditions. Hopefully I’ll encourage you to think of how you might be able to improve your systems to make your sailing better and more satisfying.

Let’s begin by looking at sail-trim adjustments, which encompasses many items: sail curve (or draft, also called cord), luff tension, foot tension, sail twist from head to foot, and attack angle (the angle of wind as it approaches the sail’s leading edge, or luff).

On racing boats, all of the power required to make these adjustments is enhanced with more-powerful winches, larger crews, expensive low-friction blocks, and extremely strong and flexible lines. All of the running-rigging systems on racing boats are also appropriate for cruising boats, but cost often plays a deciding factor when making hardware and arrangement choices.

Increasing the power of running-rigging systems will always cost more, but it will also result in ease of handling and efficiency of controlling mainsail and headsail trim. Let’s move on, focusing first on the main.

Main Outhaul

Mainsail draft (depth of the sail’s curve) is controlled primarily by the outhaul but also may be supplemented by halyard tension and mast bend. So, let’s concentrate on the outhaul if for no other reason than its ease of use, as long as it is easily adjustable and also conveniently reachable. Unfortunately, most outhauls that I see on cruising boats are not adjustable and are usually a bundle of knots, difficult to reach when under sail, and almost impossible to untie without a marlinspike or fid. So let’s fix this first.

The mainsail outhaul on my Cape Dory 28 Nikki ’s boom end is a 2-to-1 tackle with its hauling end attached to another 2-to-1 tackle, also called a cascade or Burton. In light air, when sailing to weather, the draft of the main can be flattened by taking in on the 2-to-1 part of the tackle. In strong breezes, flattening the mainsail’s draft is easily done by hauling in on the Burton only, a total power ratio of 4-to-1. Both of the outhaul tackles have their own clam cleats mounted on the side of the boom.

I don’t ­recommend mast bending to most cruisers because its proper application depends largely on the boat owner’s knowledge of the nature and dimensions of the curve built into the sail by the sailmaker. In a nutshell, though, when sailing to weather, mast bend will flatten the luff of the sail. When sailing off the wind or in light air, a straight mast will increase the curve or draft of the sail for better drive.

If your halyards are only general-purpose Dacron line (like those used for dock lines and sheets), as you tighten them, they will stretch and have little to no effect on sail shape with increased wind. Keep in mind that as windspeed increases, the draft of your sails will also increase, causing a greater heeling moment. The increased draft will also cause the sail luff to become fuller and reduce the ability to point upwind.

I really like limited-stretch and no-stretch halyards. They help reduce the sail draft near the luff from increasing when the wind builds. Limited-stretch halyards won’t stretch markedly when tightened in order to flatten the sail luffs. No-stretch or limited-stretch halyards might sound racy and will cost more, but the payoff is better performance, especially in strong winds. Good halyards are an easy fix that pay big dividends.

Cunninghams and Downhauls

Cunninghams and downhauls are essentially the same thing: Their function is to provide tension adjustment to the lower portion of the luff of a sail. A Cunningham, however, is more associated with the mainsail; downhauls are ­generally used with a headsail or staysail.

The purpose of Cunninghams and downhauls is to provide a rapid and convenient method of changing and distributing the tightness of a sail luff from tack to head, primarily on sails whose luff is in a mast slot, aluminum furling extrusion or attached to a stay with piston hanks; all of which cause friction that resists the luff from equalizing its load along its length. Since the halyard pulls upward from the top and the Cunningham pulls downward from slightly above the tack, the load in both directions equalizes the tension of the sail’s luff.

When you hoist a ­mainsail, there will often be about twice the tension on the luff above the spreaders than between the spreaders and the gooseneck. The load on the Cunningham is used to increase the lower luff tension. So, instead of cranking the halyard so tight that the winch is nearly torn off the mast or cabin top, raise the sail only until you begin to feel the luff load up, then tighten up the Cunningham until it feels about the same as the halyard. That’s the way your mainsail was designed and made, with about equal tension along the full length of the luff.

The cordage used as a downhaul or tack attachment for staysails and headsails, ­including those with roller-­furling systems, should be set up as tackles that are adjustable under sail. The cord should be long enough to set up a 4-to-1 tackle, and cleated or tied so that rapid luff tension can be adjusted ­without a hassle, whether slacking off in light air or tightening in a heavier breeze.

Gaining Mechanical Advantage

When I bought my schooner, At Last , back in the mid-’70s, she had lots of line and blocks but not a single winch. I think that most of her previous sailing had been done by a crew of six or a smaller crew made up of 300-pound gorillas. At that time, I weighed only 135 pounds, and my partner, Katy, was about 15 pounds lighter. Neither of us were what you would call “husky.”

Sailing At Last in light air was not difficult, but when it blew over 8 knots, every evolution became quite physical. We learned the first rule of manpower pretty quickly: The more line we pulled to achieve any sail adjustment (main or foresail sheet trimming, gaff hoisting, etc.), the more power was developed and less personal exertion was required.

Yes, eventually we did install sheet winches for each of the headsail sheets, but not for the main or foresail halyards or sheets, outhauls, vangs or topping lifts. For those, we added blocks and line to each system. It was like multiplying our crew. Every sail-trim maneuver became markedly easier—but slower. So, if we at least doubled the line length by adding sheaves, we also multiplied the power by the same ratio (not deducting for friction) and reduced the ­hauling load by the same ratio.

The rule of tackles is straightforward: The number of moving parts equals the mechanical advantage (power ratio). Google “block and tackle mechanical advantages,” and you will find excellent graphic diagrams with their power ratios.

Leading Systems to the Cockpit

More and more boat owners want every sail-control line led to the cockpit. This invariably requires at least three additional blocks or sheaves to be added to most ­running-­rigging systems, thus increasing friction as well as adding lots of line (I call it “spaghetti”) in or near the cockpit. In the case of reefing, leading all lines to the cockpit actually makes most reefing much more ­difficult and inefficient.

In 2009, my 28-foot Nikki won the Florida West Coast Boat of the Year award in a long series of races over several months’ time. Most wins occurred in extremely high winds because we had practiced reefing in under 45 seconds. That had become possible largely because of deftly efficient tackles, all kept within a single person’s reach. Only the main sheet went to the cockpit and was usually handled by the helmsman.

Mainsheets and Travelers

Thirty years ago, virtually all mainsheets were attached to the aft end of the boom and to a multisheave block on a short and mostly inefficient traveler at the stern of the boat. Because of the position of the traveler, its angle of effectiveness was fairly narrow, so when far off the wind (beam and broad reaches and running), the amount of downforce on the boom became little to ­negligible, rendering the traveler useless.

A double-legged ­mainsheet never accomplished its intended goal of acting like a traveler. Such a mainsheet always vectors the load to the longitudinal center of the boat on all points of sail regardless how far apart the lower blocks are spread. It was the racers who came up with the idea of moving the mainsheet to the approximate middle of the boom and down to a longer track and adjustable car (the traveler), usually just forward of the main companionway hatch on the cabin top. With this arrangement, the mainsheet becomes the major controller of both boom angle as well as mainsail twist by its increased downforce on the boom and sail.

The traveler car should be controlled by a port and starboard tackle of at least 3-to-1 advantage for boats up to 24 feet, 4-to-1 for boats up to 30 feet, and 5- to 6-to-1 for boats up to 34 feet and beyond. I also recommend the use of cam or clam cleats for all traveler control lines.

Racing sailors also came up with the idea of a boom vang attached to the forward portion of the boom at the upper end, and to a bale at the base of the mast at the lower end. This is what you usually see on most sailboats today. That simple arrangement was a giant leap forward in the area of mainsail-twist control. But almost indiscernible additional improvement seemed to occur. Nowadays, most boom vangs aren’t all that efficient and ought to be brought into this century.

The first improvement should be to pull downward on the boom vang line in order to pull down the boom. However, I rarely see a vang rigged this way, which means it loses about half of its power ­advantage. Most vangs I see are pulled upward or aft to ­exert a download on the boom, thus losing more power.

A really practical boom vang should have at least a snap shackle on the lower block so it can be quickly detached from the mast base and moved to a car on the genoa track or a hole in a perforated aluminum toe rail. This will allow the boom vang to exert much more of a vertical download. The more vertical the vang, the more downforce on the boom. Another benefit to the detachable boom vang is that the lower block can be brought forward of the mast and attached to a stout deck-pad eye or perforated toe rail so the boom vang can also act as a preventer when sailing downwind.

Doubling the power of the boom vang can be accomplished simply and easily with a small investment by adding a 2-by-1 cascade (also, again, called a Burton), which is a single 7-by-7-foot or 7-by-37-foot stainless cable run though a wire block on the boom with one end shackled to the vang bale at the mast base. The other end of the wire is fashioned with an eye to which the upper end of the vang tackle is attached. So if your vang tackle is 5-to-1 and the cascade is 2-to-1, your vang will become 10-to-1. Then by moving the lower end of the vang from the mast to the toe-rail eye, a dedicated deck-pad eye or a genoa-track car, you have doubled it again, all for about $40.

The vang that I have ­described is most efficient when sailing long distances without jibing or tacking, but if you’re simply afternoon daysailing around the bay, the vang would be more conveniently left attached to the bale at the mast base.

I have never seen a rigid boom vang that was routinely adjusted while under sail; they’re really only a boom ­support system while under power or tied up to a dock.

Main Boom Topping Lift

I put the topping lift in the same underused category with the main outhaul; too often it’s a bundle of knots at the end of the boom that have not been adjusted or adjustable in decades.

A proper topping lift is meant to raise and store the boom off the Bimini when not in use. When under sail, however, its purpose is to adjust the weight of the boom so it changes the sail twist in various wind conditions and points of sail. It works in the opposite direction of a boom vang; it pulls the boom upward while the vang pulls downward. Upward increases sail twist, and downward reduces it.

A topping lift should also be used to take the weight of the boom off the mains’l leech when putting in a reef, then tightened again while shaking out the reef. The topping lift should be adjustable on any point of sail, which translates into “reachable.” Also, lifting your outboard from your ­dinghy becomes a simple matter by using your boom vang tackle attached to the end of the boom, and “topping” the boom with the topping lift so the outboard can clear the aft pulpit and lifelines.

Backstay Adjusters

These are used to apply tension to the backstay, which is transferred to the headstay for the purpose of flattening the luff of the headsail…or slacking the backstay, thus also easing the headstay to add more draft to the jib or genoa, as would be desirable when off the wind. When closehauled and/or sailing in a stiff breeze, a flattened headsail is preferred to lessen the boat’s heeling moment and to allow the boat to point up a little closer to the wind. With a backstay adjuster, this can be done in a few seconds with an adequate tackle arrangement.

Adjusting a headstay is usually impossible while under sail with the headsail sheeted in tightly. There are special turnbuckles and hydraulic backstay adjusters that can be used while under sail, but they are not as rapid as the appropriate backstay tackle systems. When tightening the backstay, the mast is also slightly bent to help flatten the draft and remove the “cup” from the luff of the mainsail at the same time as the headsail. So double benefits are derived from one simple adjustment.

Making your boat perform better does not have to be, nor should it be, a lot of work. In reality, effective running-rigging systems will make sailing a lot less strenuous, as well as more enjoyable and rewarding. Your boat will look better and perform better, and teach you a lot about getting the most out of the wind while adding joy to your afternoons under the clouds.

Don’t avoid the possibilities. Embrace them.

Boat designer, builder, writer, illustrator and longtime CW contributor Bruce Bingham lives aboard his Cape Dory 28, Nikki , on Florida’s Gulf coast.

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Sailboat Running Rigging

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The Standing Rigging On A Sailboat Explained

The standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars.

In this guide, I’ll explain the basics of a sailboat’s hardware and rigging, how it works, and why it is a fundamental and vital part of the vessel. We’ll look at the different parts of the rig, where they are located, and their function.

We will also peek at a couple of different types of rigs and their variations to determine their differences. In the end, I will explain some additional terms and answer some practical questions I often get asked.

But first off, it is essential to understand what standing rigging is and its purpose on a sailboat.

The purpose of the standing rigging

Like I said in the beginning, the standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars. When sailing, the rig helps transfer wind forces from the sails to the boat’s structure. This is critical for maintaining the stability and performance of the vessel.

The rig can also consist of other materials, such as synthetic lines or steel rods, yet its purpose is the same. But more on that later.

Since the rig supports the mast, you’ll need to ensure that it is always in appropriate condition before taking your boat out to sea. Let me give you an example from a recent experience.

Dismasting horrors

I had a company inspect the entire rig on my sailboat while preparing for an Atlantic crossing. The rigger didn’t find any issues, but I decided to replace the rig anyway because of its unknown age. I wanted to do the job myself so I could learn how it is done correctly.

Not long after, we left Gibraltar and sailed through rough weather for eight days before arriving in Las Palmas. We were safe and sound and didn’t experience any issues. Unfortunately, several other boats arriving before us had suffered rig failures. They lost their masts and sails—a sorrowful sight but also a reminder of how vital the rigging is on a sailboat.

The most common types of rigging on a sailboat

The most commonly used rig type on modern sailing boats is the fore-and-aft Bermuda Sloop rig with one mast and just one headsail. Closely follows the Cutter rig and the Ketch rig. They all have a relatively simple rigging layout. Still, there are several variations and differences in how they are set up.

A sloop has a single mast, and the Ketch has one main mast and an additional shorter mizzen mast further aft. A Cutter rig is similar to the Bermuda Sloop with an additional cutter forestay, allowing it to fly two overlapping headsails.

You can learn more about the differences and the different types of sails they use in this guide. For now, we’ll focus on the Bermuda rig.

The difference between standing rigging and running rigging

Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly:

The  rig  or  rigging  on a sailboat is a common term for two parts:

• The  standing rigging  consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing.
• The  running rigging  consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate, and control the sails on a sailboat.

Check out my guide on running rigging here !

The difference between a fractional and a masthead rig

A Bermuda rig is split into two groups. The  Masthead  rig and the  Fractional  rig.

The  Masthead  rig has a forestay running from the bow to the top of the mast, and the spreaders point 90 degrees to the sides. A boat with a masthead rig typically carries a bigger overlapping headsail ( Genoa)  and a smaller mainsail. Very typical on the Sloop, Ketch, and Cutter rigs.

A  Fractional  rig has forestays running from the bow to 1/4 – 1/8 from the top of the mast, and the spreaders are swept backward. A boat with a fractional rig also has the mast farther forward than a masthead rig, a bigger mainsail, and a smaller headsail, usually a Jib. Very typical on more performance-oriented sailboats.

There are exceptions in regards to the type of headsail, though. Many performance cruisers use a Genoa instead of a Jib , making the difference smaller.

Some people also fit an inner forestay, or a babystay, to allow flying a smaller staysail.

Explaining the parts and hardware of the standing rigging

The rigging on a sailing vessel relies on stays and shrouds in addition to many hardware parts to secure the mast properly. And we also have nautical terms for each of them. Since a system relies on every aspect of it to be in equally good condition, we want to familiarize ourselves with each part and understand its function.

Forestay and Backstay

The  forestay  is a wire that runs from the bow to the top of the mast. Some boats, like the Cutter rig, can have several additional inner forestays in different configurations.

The  backstay  is the wire that runs from the back of the boat to the top of the mast. Backstays have a tensioner, often hydraulic, to increase the tension when sailing upwind. Some rigs, like the Cutter, have running backstays and sometimes checkstays or runners, to support the rig.

The primary purpose of the forestay and backstay is to prevent the mast from moving fore and aft. The tensioner on the backstay also allows us to trim and tune the rig to get a better shape of the sails.

The shrouds are the wires or lines used on modern sailboats and yachts to support the mast from sideways motion.

There are usually four shrouds on each side of the vessel. They are connected to the side of the mast and run down to turnbuckles attached through toggles to the chainplates bolted on the deck.

• Cap shrouds run from the top of the mast to the deck, passing through the tips of the upper spreaders.
• Intermediate shrouds  run from the lower part of the mast to the deck, passing through the lower set of spreaders.
• Lower shrouds  are connected to the mast under the first spreader and run down to the deck – one fore and one aft on each side of the boat.

This configuration is called continuous rigging. We won’t go into the discontinuous rigging used on bigger boats in this guide, but if you are interested, you can read more about it here .

Shroud materials

Shrouds are usually made of 1 x 19 stainless steel wire. These wires are strong and relatively easy to install but are prone to stretch and corrosion to a certain degree. Another option is using stainless steel rods.

Rod rigging

Rod rigging has a stretch coefficient lower than wire but is more expensive and can be intricate to install. Alternatively, synthetic rigging is becoming more popular as it weighs less than wire and rods.

Synthetic rigging

Fibers like Dyneema and other aramids are lightweight and provide ultra-high tensile strength. However, they are expensive and much more vulnerable to chafing and UV damage than other options. In my opinion, they are best suited for racing and regatta-oriented sailboats.

Wire rigging

I recommend sticking to the classic 316-graded stainless steel wire rigging for cruising sailboats. It is also the most reasonable of the options. If you find yourself in trouble far from home, you are more likely to find replacement wire than another complex rigging type.

Relevant terms on sailboat rigging and hardware

The spreaders are the fins or wings that space the shrouds away from the mast. Most sailboats have at least one set, but some also have two or three. Once a vessel has more than three pairs of spreaders, we are probably talking about a big sailing yacht.

A turnbuckle is the fitting that connects the shrouds to the toggle and chainplate on the deck. These are adjustable, allowing you to tension the rig.

A chainplate is a metal plate bolted to a strong point on the deck or side of the hull. It is usually reinforced with a backing plate underneath to withstand the tension from the shrouds.

The term mast head should be distinct from the term masthead rigging. Out of context, the mast head is the top of the mast.

A toggle is a hardware fitting to connect the turnbuckles on the shrouds and the chainplate.

How tight should the standing rigging be?

It is essential to periodically check the tension of the standing rigging and make adjustments to ensure it is appropriately set. If the rig is too loose, it allows the mast to sway excessively, making the boat perform poorly.

You also risk applying a snatch load during a tack or a gybe which can damage the rig. On the other hand, if the standing rigging is too tight, it can strain the rig and the hull and lead to structural failure.

The standing rigging should be tightened enough to prevent the mast from bending sideways under any point of sail. If you can move the mast by pulling the cap shrouds by hand, the rigging is too loose and should be tensioned. Once the cap shrouds are tightened, follow up with the intermediates and finish with the lower shrouds. It is critical to tension the rig evenly on both sides.

The next you want to do is to take the boat out for a trip. Ensure that the mast isn’t bending over to the leeward side when you are sailing. A little movement in the leeward shrouds is normal, but they shouldn’t swing around. If the mast bends to the leeward side under load, the windward shrouds need to be tightened. Check the shrouds while sailing on both starboard and port tack.

Once the mast is in a column at any point of sail, your rigging should be tight and ready for action.

If you feel uncomfortable adjusting your rig, get a professional rigger to inspect and reset it.

How often should the standing rigging be replaced on a sailboat?

I asked the rigger who produced my new rig for Ellidah about how long I could expect my new rig to last, and he replied with the following:

The standing rigging should be replaced after 10 – 15 years, depending on how hard and often the boat has sailed. If it is well maintained and the vessel has sailed conservatively, it will probably last more than 20 years. However, corrosion or cracked strands indicate that the rig or parts are due for replacement regardless of age.

If you plan on doing extended offshore sailing and don’t know the age of your rig, I recommend replacing it even if it looks fine. This can be done without removing the mast from the boat while it is still in the water.

How much does it cost to replace the standing rigging?

The cost of replacing the standing rigging will vary greatly depending on the size of your boat and the location you get the job done. For my 41 feet sloop, I did most of the installation myself and paid approximately $4700 for the entire rig replacement.

Can Dyneema be used for standing rigging?

Dyneema is a durable synthetic fiber that can be used for standing rigging. Its low weight, and high tensile strength makes it especially popular amongst racers. Many cruisers also carry Dyneema onboard as spare parts for failing rigging.

How long does dyneema standing rigging last?

Dyneema rigging can outlast wire rigging if it doesn’t chafe on anything sharp. There are reports of Dyneema rigging lasting as long as 15 years, but manufacturers like Colligo claim their PVC shrink-wrapped lines should last 8 to 10 years. You can read more here .

Final words

Congratulations! By now, you should have a much better understanding of standing rigging on a sailboat. We’ve covered its purpose and its importance for performance and safety. While many types of rigs and variations exist, the hardware and concepts are often similar. Now it’s time to put your newfound knowledge into practice and set sail!

Or, if you’re not ready just yet, I recommend heading over to my following guide to learn more about running rigging on a sailboat.

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

Very well written. Common sense layout with just enough photos and sketches. I enjoyed reading this article.

Thank you for the kind words.

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Standing Rigging (or ‘Name That Stay’)

Published by rigworks on november 19, 2019.

Question: When your riggers talk about standing rigging, they often use terms I don’t recognize. Can you break it down for me?

From the Rigger: Let’s play ‘Name that Stay’…

Forestay (1 or HS) – The forestay, or headstay, connects the mast to the front (bow) of the boat and keeps your mast from falling aft.

• Your forestay can be full length (masthead to deck) or fractional (1/8 to 1/4 from the top of the mast to the deck).
• Inner forestays, including staysail stays, solent stays and baby stays, connect to the mast below the main forestay and to the deck aft of the main forestay. Inner forestays allow you to hoist small inner headsails and/or provide additional stability to your rig.

Backstay (2 or BS) – The backstay runs from the mast to the back of the boat (transom) and is often adjustable to control forestay tension and the shape of the sails.

• A backstay can be either continuous (direct from mast to transom) or it may split in the lower section (7) with “legs” that ‘V’ out to the edges of the transom.
• Backstays often have hydraulic or manual tensioners built into them to increase forestay tension and bend the mast, which flattens your mainsail.
• Running backstays can be removable, adjustable, and provide additional support and tuning usually on fractional rigs. They run to the outer edges of the transom and are adjusted with each tack. The windward running back is in tension and the leeward is eased so as not to interfere with the boom and sails.
• Checkstays, useful on fractional rigs with bendy masts, are attached well below the backstay and provide aft tension to the mid panels of the mast to reduce mast bend and provide stabilization to reduce the mast from pumping.

Shrouds – Shrouds support the mast from side to side. Shrouds are either continuous or discontinuous .

Continuous rigging, common in production sailboats, means that each shroud (except the lowers) is a continuous piece of material that connects to the mast at some point, passes through the spreaders without terminating, and continues to the deck. There may be a number of continuous shrouds on your boat ( see Figure 1 ).

• Cap shrouds (3) , sometimes called uppers, extend from masthead to the chainplates at the deck.
• Intermediate shrouds (4) extend from mid-mast panel to deck.
• Lower shrouds extend from below the spreader-base to the chainplates. Fore- (5) and Aft-Lowers (6) connect to the deck either forward or aft of the cap shroud.

Discontinuous rigging, common on high performance sailboats, is a series of shorter lengths that terminate in tip cups at each spreader. The diameter of the wire/rod can be reduced in the upper sections where loads are lighter, reducing overall weight. These independent sections are referred to as V# and D# ( see Figure 2 ). For example, V1 is the lowest vertical shroud that extends from the deck to the outer tip of the first spreader. D1 is the lowest diagonal shroud that extends from the deck to the mast at the base of the first spreader. The highest section that extends from the upper spreader to the mast head may be labeled either V# or D#.

A sailboat’s standing rigging is generally built from wire rope, rod, or occasionally a super-strong synthetic fibered rope such as Dyneema ® , carbon fiber, kevlar or PBO.

• 1×19 316 grade stainless steel Wire Rope (1 group of 19 wires, very stiff with low stretch) is standard on most sailboats. Wire rope is sized/priced by its diameter which varies from boat to boat, 3/16” through 1/2″ being the most common range.
• 1×19 Compact Strand or Dyform wire, a more expensive alternative, is used to increase strength, reduce stretch, and minimize diameter on high performance boats such as catamarans. It is also the best alternative when replacing rod with wire.
• Rod rigging offers lower stretch, longer life expectancy, and higher breaking strength than wire. Unlike wire rope, rod is defined by its breaking strength, usually ranging from -10 to -40 (approx. 10k to 40k breaking strength), rather than diameter. So, for example, we refer to 7/16” wire (diameter) vs. -10 Rod (breaking strength).
• Composite Rigging is a popular option for racing boats. It offers comparable breaking strengths to wire and rod with a significant reduction in weight and often lower stretch.

Are your eyes crossing yet? This is probably enough for now, but stay tuned for our next ‘Ask the Rigger’. We will continue this discussion with some of the fittings/connections/hardware associated with your standing rigging.

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Parts of a Sailboat Rigging: A Comprehensive Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 6, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

Short answer: Parts of a Sailboat Rigging

The sailboat rigging consists of various components essential for controlling and supporting the sails. Key parts include the mast, boom, shrouds, forestay, backstay, halyards, and sheets.

Understanding the Basics: A Comprehensive Overview of the Parts of a Sailboat Rigging

Title: Understanding the Basics: A Comprehensive Overview of the Parts of a Sailboat Rigging

Introduction: Sailboats have been a symbol of freedom and adventure for centuries. Whether you are an avid sailor or an aspiring skipper, understanding the various components that make up a sailboat rigging is essential. In this insightful guide, we will dive into the world of sailboat rigging, unraveling its intricacies while shedding light on its importance and functionality. So tighten your mainsails and let’s set sail on this knowledge-packed journey!

1. Mast: The mast is the vertical spar that supports the sails . It provides structural integrity to the entire rigging system and enables harnessing wind power effectively. Constructed from materials such as aluminum or carbon fiber, modern masts are designed to be lightweight yet robust enough to withstand varying weather conditions .

2. Standing Rigging: The standing rigging refers to all fixed parts that support the mast. This includes stays (fore, back, and jumper) which run between the masthead and various points on the hull or deck, like chainplates or tangs. Shrouds (cap shrouds, intermediate shrouds) help counteract lateral forces by providing lateral support to prevent excessive sideward movement of the mast.

3. Running Rigging: Unlike standing rigging, running rigging comprises lines that control sails’ deployment and trim dynamically during sailing maneuvers . The halyard raises or lowers a sail along its respective track within the mast groove while keeping it securely fastened in place when needed.

4. Sails: Of course, we can’t discuss sailboat rigging without mentioning sails themselves! They are like wings for your boat – converting wind energy into forward motion efficiently . Main sails typically attach through slides onto a mast track using luff cars for easy hoisting and lowering during different conditions.

5. Boom: The boom plays a crucial role in sail control , as it connects the aft end of the mainsail to the mast. By controlling the angle of the boom, sailors can adjust the shape and trim of the main sail for optimum performance against varying wind conditions.

6. Spreader: Spreader arms are horizontal poles extending from some point up the mast’s length. They serve two purposes: keeping shrouds apart to improve sail shape and reducing compressive loads on the rigging by forcing them away from each other.

7. Turnbuckles: Turnbuckles are adjustable devices used to tension standing rigging elements such as shrouds and stays. These fittings allow sailors to fine-tune rigging tensions while maximizing stability and overall performance based on prevailing weather conditions.

8. Winches: Winches are mechanical devices primarily used for easing or trimming running rigging lines under high loads. With a simple rotation, winches convert human effort into mechanical advantage, allowing efficient handling of lines for adjusting sails in different situations.

Conclusion: Understanding your sailboat rigging is not just essential for safe sailing but also for harnessing its maximum potential during every voyage. From deciphering various components like masts, standing and running rigging, booms, spreaders, turnbuckles, and winches – each element plays a crucial role in ensuring a smooth sailing experience. So next time you find yourself out on open waters, take a moment to appreciate these intricate systems that keep you powered by nothing but wind!

Step by Step Guide: How to Properly Assemble and Install the Various Parts of a Sailboat Rigging

Welcome fellow sailors and enthusiasts! Today, we are diving into the intricate world of sailboat rigging. Whether you are an experienced sailor or a newcomer to the sailing community, understanding how to properly assemble and install the various parts of a sailboat rig is essential for smooth and safe sailing. So, grab your tools and let’s get started on this step-by-step guide !

Step 1: Gather Your Tools and Materials Before embarking on this rigging journey, it’s crucial to have all your tools and materials ready. Here is a list of essentials you’ll need:

– Stainless steel wire rigging – Turnbuckles – Fittings and hardware such as clevis pins, shackles, and thimbles – Measuring tape or ruler – Wire cutters – Crimping tool or swaging machine (depending on your preference) – Electric drill (if required) – Lubricant or anti-seize compound

Make sure you have everything organized before starting. A well-prepared sailor is a successful one!

Step 2: Inspect Existing Rigging (If Applicable) If you own a used boat or are replacing old rigging, take some time to inspect the current setup. Look out for any signs of wear, frayed wires, or damaged fittings. It’s crucial to address these issues before proceeding with installation as they can compromise safety at sea.

Step 3: Measure Twice; Cut Once! Now that everything is set up let’s proceed by measuring the length needed for each piece of wire rigging carefully. Tinier inaccuracies in measurement during this step can lead to major inconveniences later.

Ensure you give yourself ample space for adjusting tension using turnbuckles. Pro-tip: It’s better to cut the wire slightly longer than needed rather than cutting it too short!

Step 4: Attach Fittings – The Devil Lies in Details Once you have measured and cut the rigging wire, let’s start attaching the fittings. This is where precision comes into play. Begin with inserting thimbles onto each end of the wires to avoid kinks or fraying. Next, connect the turnbuckles and fittings according to your sailboat’s specific rigging plan.

Step 5: Tension Matters Now that you have installed all the necessary fittings, it’s time to tension the rigging. This step requires a bit of finesse as over-tightening can damage equipment, while under-tightening can compromise performance.

Using a tension gauge, ensure that you achieve optimal tension on all parts of your sailboat’s rigging. It might take some trial and error, but finding that sweet spot is worth it!

Step 6: Inspect and Lubricate Before setting sail , always double-check everything! Look for any loose fittings or signs of wear once again. You wouldn’t want to go through these steps all over again out in the middle of nowhere!

Additionally, apply lubricant or anti-seize compound to prevent corrosion and ensure smooth operation of turnbuckles and other moving parts.

And there you have it – a professionally and properly assembled sailboat rigging! Sit back for a minute or two to appreciate your workmanship before feeling that excitement rush through as you’ll soon set sail smoothly onto those horizon-stretching waters.

Remember, practice makes perfect when it comes to mastering this skill. Over time, you’ll develop your own techniques and become a maestro at sailboat rigging assembly. Happy sailing!

Top Frequently Asked Questions about Sailboat Rigging Components Answered

Are you new to sailing or considering purchasing a sailboat? No matter your experience level, understanding the rigging components of a sailboat is crucial for safe and successful navigation on the water. In this blog post, we aim to answer some of the top frequently asked questions about sailboat rigging components. So, let’s dive in!

1. What are sailboat rigging components? Sailboat rigging components refer to the various parts and systems that help support and control the sails on a sailboat. These components include standing rigging (the fixed parts) and running rigging (lines that can be adjusted). Some common examples of rigging components are the mast, boom, shrouds, stays, halyards, sheets, and blocks.

2. What is the purpose of each rigging component? Each component serves a specific purpose in sailing . The mast supports the sails and provides leverage for controlling their shape. The boom holds down the bottom of the mainsail and allows adjustment for different points of sail . Shrouds provide lateral support to prevent excessive side-to-side movement of the mast. Stays offer fore-and-aft support to keep the mast from leaning too far forward or backward. Halyards raise and lower sails while sheets control their angle in relation to wind direction.

3. How often should I inspect my sailboat’s rigging ? Regular inspection is crucial for ensuring your safety on the water . We recommend conducting visual inspections before every sailing trip and more thorough inspections at least once a year or per manufacturer recommendations. Look out for any signs of wear, corrosion, loose fittings, or frayed lines that may indicate potential issues.

4. Can I replace my own rigging components? While minor repairs or adjustments can typically be done by boat owners with some knowledge and experience, replacing major rigging components should ideally be done by professionals who specialize in sailboat rigging services. They have the expertise and equipment necessary to properly install and tension components, ensuring your safety.

5. How long do sailboat rigging components typically last? The lifespan of rigging components depends on various factors such as usage, maintenance, and exposure to environmental conditions. Stainless steel stays can last for 10-15 years or longer with regular inspections and maintenance, while synthetic running rigging (such as ropes made from high-performance fibers) may have a shorter lifespan of 3-5 years.

6. Are there any safety tips related to sailboat rigging? Absolutely! Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment when working with or near rigging components. Take care not to overload or overstress the rig by correctly tensioning lines within manufacturer specifications . Avoid standing under or in close proximity to the mast while raising or lowering it, as it can be dangerous if it accidentally drops.

7. What are some common signs of rigging failure? Rigging failures can be catastrophic, so being able to identify potential issues is vital. Look out for visible cracks, rust, elongation, broken strands on wires, loose fittings, excessive wear on ropes, or unusual noises while sailing. Any of these signs should prompt an immediate inspection and possible replacement of affected components.

In conclusion, understanding sailboat rigging components is crucial for any sailor looking to navigate safely on the water. By familiarizing yourself with these frequently asked questions and following proper inspection and maintenance practices, you’ll enjoy a smooth sailing experience while prioritizing your safety at all times!

Exploring the Essential Components: An In-Depth Look at Key Parts of a Sailboat Rigging

Sailing is a thrilling and age-old activity that has fascinated adventurers and seafarers for centuries. At the heart of every sailing vessel lies its rigging, which is a complex system of ropes, wires, and equipment that hold the sails in place and allows for precise control over the boat’s movement. In this blog post, we will take an in-depth look at the key components of a sailboat rigging to understand their importance and how they contribute to the overall sailing experience.

Mast: The backbone of any sailboat rigging is its mast. This tall vertical structure supports the sails and provides stability to the vessel . Made from materials such as aluminum or carbon fiber, masts are designed to withstand strong winds and carry considerable loads. They come in various shapes and sizes depending on the type of boat and intended use.

Boom: Attached horizontally towards the bottom of the mast, the boom serves as a critical component in controlling the position of the mainsail – typically the largest sail on board. Acting as an extension of the mast, it allows for adjustments in sail trim by pivoting up or down.

Shrouds: These sturdy wire cables are attached to either side of the mast at multiple levels, forming a crucial part of sailboat rigging’s structural integrity. Shrouds keep the mast upright by counteracting lateral forces created by wind pressure on sails . Adjustable tensioning systems enable sailors to fine-tune shroud tension according to prevailing conditions.

Stay: Similar to shrouds but located further forward on most boats, stays provide additional support for maintaining mast stability. Fore-stay runs from top-to-bow while back-stays run from top-to-aft; together they prevent excessive forward or aft bending movements during intense wind pressures.

Turnbuckles: Within sailboat rigging systems lie turnbuckles – mechanical devices used for adjusting tension in wires or ropes like shrouds or stays. These clever devices simplify the task of tightening or loosening rigging components, enabling sailors to optimize sail shape and boat performance with ease.

Halyards: Essential for hoisting sails up and down, halyards are ropes used to control the vertical movement of the sails . They are typically operated through winches, which increase mechanical advantage and make raising and lowering large sails manageable.

Blocks: Also known as pulleys, these simple yet crucial devices help redirect the path of ropes within a sailboat rigging system. Blocks increase mechanical advantage by changing the direction of applied force, making it easier for sailors to control different aspects such as sail trim or adjusting tension.

Running Rigging vs Standing Rigging: Sailboat rigging can be classified into two main categories – running rigging and standing rigging. Running rigging refers to all movable lines and ropes that control sail position, while standing rigging encompasses all stationary components that give structure to the mast. Both elements work in harmony to ensure efficient maneuverability and safety at sea .

Understanding these key components within a sailboat’s rigging is essential for any aspiring sailor or seasoned mariner alike. It not only allows them to appreciate how these intricately designed systems function together but also helps enhance their sailing skills by leveraging each component’s unique role.

So next time you set foot on a sailboat or watch one glide gracefully across the water, take a moment to admire the finely tuned rigging – a mesmerizing web of interconnected parts that enable humans to harness the power of wind and embark on unforgettable nautical adventures.

The Crucial Role of Each Part: Unveiling the Functionality and Importance of Sailboat Rigging Components

Sailboat rigging components may seem simple and insignificant at first glance, but anyone who has sailed knows just how crucial each part is to the overall functionality and performance of a sailboat. From the mast to the shrouds, every component plays a vital role in ensuring safe navigation, efficient sailing, and maximum performance on the water.

One of the most essential parts of any sailboat rigging system is the mast. Serving as the backbone of the entire structure, the mast provides vertical stability and supports various sails that catch the wind . The mast’s height and shape significantly impact a boat’s performance, affecting not only its speed but also its ability to handle different wind conditions. A sturdy mast ensures that forces are properly distributed throughout the rigging system, preventing excessive strain or potential failure.

Connected to both sides of the mast are what are known as shrouds. These cables or wires act as primary support structures for restraining lateral movement and maintaining balance in heavy winds. Shrouds come in different sizes and tensions depending on factors such as sail size and boat length. Proper tensioning of shrouds is crucial for maintaining structural integrity and minimizing flexing under intense force.

Another integral part is the forestay – a cable or wire running from near or at the top of the mast down to the bow area of a sailboat . The forestay supports forward strength and controls stay sag- an essential factor for optimizing aerodynamics by shaping how sails interact with wind. It helps maintain proper sail geometry while limiting unnecessary heel (leaning) during maneuvers or gusts.

The backstay is another component critical for stability and control. Running from either side of the stern up to near or at the top of the mast, it helps counterbalance fore-aft bending forces created by wind pressure against a boat’s sails pushing it forward. By adjusting backstay tension, sailors can fine-tune their boat’s responsiveness to changes in wind speed or balance.

The boom, a horizontal spar attached to the mast, plays a crucial role in controlling the angle and shape of the mainsail. It acts as a pivot point for adjusting sail trim, allowing sailors to maximize lift and minimize drag based on wind conditions. With its connection to the gooseneck at the foot of the mast, it enables easy raising and lowering of the mainsail for quick adjustments or docking maneuvers .

Moreover, various blocks and pulleys are scattered throughout a sailboat’s rigging system playing essential roles in creating mechanical advantages. These components reduce friction and redirect forces generated by sails and lines during sailing operations, making it easier for sailors to handle heavy loads while preserving their energy. Choosing high-quality blocks with low-friction bearings is crucial for efficient sail handling while maintaining control.

Understanding how each part functions individually is significant; but more importantly, appreciating how they work in harmony is where true seamanship resides. Rigging components must be designed and maintained carefully to ensure safety, performance, and optimal functionality on any sailing adventure.

In conclusion, sailboat rigging components may appear simple to some extent but hold tremendous importance in enhancing a boat’s capabilities on water. From providing vertical stability with masts and dampening lateral movement with shrouds to shaping sails’ interaction with wind using forestays and backstays – every component has a crucial role to play. Understanding how these parts function individually and collectively helps sailors navigate safely while maximizing performance out on the open sea

Troubleshooting Tips: Common Issues and Solutions related to different parts of a sailboat rigging

Introduction: The rigging of a sailboat is an essential component that allows for safe navigation and optimal performance on the water. However, like any mechanical system, it can experience issues from time to time. In this blog post, we will provide detailed professional troubleshooting tips for common problems related to various parts of a sailboat rigging. Whether you’re an experienced sailor or just starting out, these solutions will help keep your rigging in top shape and ensure smooth sailing on every adventure.

1. Mast and Standing Rigging: One common issue sailors face is the presence of squeaking noises coming from the mast or standing rigging while underway. This can be quite bothersome and distracting during a peaceful sail. To resolve this problem, start by checking the connections between different components of the rigging and tighten any loose fittings appropriately. Additionally, using lubricants specifically designed for marine environments can significantly reduce friction between movable parts, eliminating annoying creaks and groans as you ride the waves.

2. Shrouds and Forestay: Another issue frequently encountered involves misaligned shrouds or forestay tension that affects the overall stability of the mast. If you notice your mast leaning slightly to one side or backward, it’s likely due to incorrectly adjusted shrouds or an improperly tensioned forestay. To rectify this, use a tension gauge to ensure consistent tension across all shrouds while avoiding excessive strain on either side of the mast base. By maintaining proper alignment and equal tension distribution, your rigging will provide maximum support when experiencing strong winds or rough conditions.

3. Running Rigging (Lines): Running rigging encompasses all lines used for controlling sails such as halyards, sheets, and control lines – crucial elements for proper sail handling. A typical problem associated with running rigging is line chafing caused by repeated friction against sharp edges or abrasive surfaces onboard. Inspect your lines regularly for signs of wear, paying close attention to areas exposed to constant rubbing. To prevent chafing, secure protective coverings or install specialized guards where necessary. Regularly washing and lubricating your lines will also extend their lifespan and ensure smooth operation.

4. Block and Tackle Systems: Block and tackle systems play a vital role in distributing loads and facilitating the movement of sails, particularly in larger sailboats. A common issue arises when blocks become jammed or fail to rotate freely due to debris buildup or lack of proper maintenance. To address this problem, inspect all blocks systematically, disassembling them if required, and clean out any accumulated dirt or salt crystals thoroughly. After cleaning, applying a liberal amount of marine-grade grease will promote smooth rotation and reduce the likelihood of future blockages.

Conclusion: Effective troubleshooting is essential for maintaining a sailboat rigging system that performs optimally and ensures a safe experience on the water. By following these detailed professional tips, you can address common issues associated with different parts of your sailboat rigging promptly and efficiently. Remember to conduct regular inspections, prioritize preventive maintenance, and seek professional assistance whenever needed. With a well-maintained rigging system at your disposal, you can embark on each sailing journey confidently, knowing that you’re prepared to overcome any challenges that may arise along the way.

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Baltimore bridge collapse

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Baltimore Key Bridge collapses after ship collision

By Helen Regan , Kathleen Magramo , Antoinette Radford, Alisha Ebrahimji , Maureen Chowdhury , Michelle Shen and Rachel Ramirez , CNN

Ship lights flickered and veered off course shortly before Baltimore bridge hit, CNN analysis shows   

From CNN’s Allegra Goodwin in London

The Singaporean-flagged cargo ship that struck the Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore Tuesday altered course and veered toward a pillar shortly before impact, a CNN analysis of MarineTraffic ship-tracking data confirms.  

It’s unclear what caused the ship to crash into the bridge or why its lights were flickering. CNN has reached out to the National Transportation Safety Board to inquire about a possible power failure. 

The container ship Dali, which was en route to Colombo, Sri Lanka, begins to change course toward the bridge’s pillar at 1:26 a.m. local time, striking the bridge at 1:28 a.m. ET, according to MarineTraffic data and video from the scene. Video from 1: 25 a.m. ET shows a plume of dark smoke billowing from the ship. Dali’s lights flicker at least twice before the incident.  

In video, as it navigates down the Patapsco River, the ship’s lights can be seen going out at 1:24 a.m. ET, before turning back on, and then flickering off and on again between 1:26 a.m. ET and 1.27 a.m. ET, just before it hits the bridge.  

Maryland transportation secretary says contractors were working on bridge at time of collapse

From CNN's Antoinette Radford

Maryland State Transportation Secretary Paul Wiedefeld told reporters there were workers on the Francis Scott Key Bridge at the time of its collapse.

"We know there were individuals on the bridge at the time of the collapse, working on the bridge, contractors for us," he said at a news conference Tuesday morning.

Wiedefeld said the workers were "basically doing some concrete deck repair," but said they did not know how many vehicles were involved.

He added that the transport authority has set up a facility for family members of those who were believed to be on the bridge at the time of its collapse.

Baltimore fire chief: Sonar has detected the presence of vehicles submerged in the water

Baltimore Fire Chief James Wallace says authorities have detected vehicles submerged in the water.

“Our sonar has detected the presence of vehicles submerged in the water,” said Wallace at a news conference on the collapse of Francis Scott Key Bridge. “I don't have a count of that yet.”

He said emergency services are using sonar, drones and infrared technology as a part of their search for people and vehicles who may have fallen from the Key Bridge into the Patapsco River.

No indication of "terrorism" or intent in Baltimore bridge collapse, police chief says

From CNN’s Andy Rose

Baltimore Police said there was no evidence that the ship collision that caused the collapse of the Francis Scott Key Bridge was intentional.

“There is absolutely no indication that there's any terrorism, that this was done on purpose,” Chief Richard Worley said at a news conference.

The FBI  said  that it was joining the investigation into the cause of the collision.

Rescue crews have determined there are vehicles in the Patapsco River following the bridge collapse.

“Our sonar has detected the presence of vehicles submerged in the water,” said Fire Chief James Wallace. “I don't have a count of that yet.”

Wallace said they are waiting to make sure that the ship is secure and stable before investigators board it.

“Never would you think that you would see, physically see, the Key Bridge tumble down like that,” Mayor Brandon M. Scott said.

Cruises, cars and commodities: What to know about the Port of Baltimore

From CNN's Mark Thompson and Hanna Ziady

The collapse of the   Francis Scott Key Bridge over the Patapsco River outside the Port of Baltimore threatens to disrupt shipping operations at a major US trade hub for autos, container traffic and commodities. Baltimore also has a cruise terminal.

Closer to the Midwest than any other port on the East Coast, Baltimore ranks first in the United States for autos and light trucks, handling a record 850,000 vehicles last year. It was also the leading port for farming and construction machinery, as well as imported sugar and gypsum. It was second in the country for exporting coal.

Overall, Baltimore ranks as the 9th biggest US port for international cargo, handling a record 52.3 million tons, valued at $80.8 billion in 2023.

“The immediate focus is the rescue operation, but there will clearly be a highly-complex recovery phase and investigation to follow and we don't know what impact this will have on operations at the Port of Baltimore," said Emily Stausbøll, market analyst at Norway-based shipping analytics company Xeneta.

“While Baltimore is not one of the largest US East Coast ports, it still imports and exports more than one million containers each year so there is the potential for this to cause significant disruption to supply chains," she added.

Baltimore's cruise terminal serves ships operated by Royal Caribbean, Carnival and Norwegian. Cruises carrying more than 444,000 passengers departed from the port last year.

According to the Maryland state government, the port supports 15,330 direct jobs and 139,180 jobs in related services.

Rescue crews looking for at least seven people in Baltimore bridge collapse

Rescue operations are underway near the wreckage of the Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore, as crews look for people who fell into the Patapsco River.

“We are still very much in an active search and rescue posture at this point, and we will continue to be for some time,” Wallace added.

Baltimore Fire says two people have been rescued from the river – one who was uninjured, and another in hospitalized “very serious condition.”

“This is an unthinkable tragedy,” Mayor Brandon Scott said. “We have to first and foremost pray for all of those impacted.”

Ship that collided with Baltimore bridge was chartered by Danish shipping company Maersk 

From CNN's Alex Stambaugh in Hong Kong

The container ship that collided with the Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore on Tuesday was chartered by Maersk and carrying their customers' cargo, the Danish shipping company told CNN.

"We are horrified by what has happened in Baltimore, and our thoughts are with all of those affected," The company said in its statement.

The company, which has a full name of A.P. Moller - Maersk, said no company crew and personnel were onboard the vessel. It said the ship, DALI, is operated by charter vessel company Synergy Group. 

"We are closely following the investigations conducted by authorities and Synergy, and we will do our utmost to keep our customers informed," the statement said. 

CNN is attempting to contact the owner and managers of the ship, including Synergy.

FBI Baltimore on the scene at the Key Bridge

FBI Baltimore personnel are on the scene at the Francis Scott Key Bridge, they have said in a post on X.

The agency said it was working "side by side with our local, state and federal partners."

Baltimore fire emergency chief says 2 people saved from water after Key Bridge collapse

The Baltimore Fire Department Chief James Wallace says authorities rescued two people from the water this morning, one without injury and the other who has been transferred to hospital in a serious condition.

Authorities are continuing their search for upwards of seven people, Wallace says. But, he says that number could change as it is a "very large incident." Earlier on Tuesday, an official said as many as 20 people could be in the water.

Wallace added that the crew remains on board the ship, and are communicating with the US Coast Guard. He added that emergency services are looking into reports that there were workers on the bridge at the time of the incident.

Speaking at the press conference, Baltimore Mayor Brandon Scott also described the incident as an “unthinkable tragedy,” and offered his prayers for all those affected, as well as his thanks to first responders.

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Live Updates: 6 People Are Missing in Baltimore Bridge Collapse

Around the time the cargo ship struck the bridge overnight, the crew told the authorities they had lost power. Officials said a preliminary investigation pointed toward an accident, not terrorism.

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• Jim Lo Scalzo/EPA, via Shutterstock
• Pete Kiehart for The New York Times
• Julia Nikhinson/Reuters
• WJLA via Associated Press

John Yoon ,  Mike Ives ,  Victoria Kim and Derrick Bryson Taylor

Here’s what we know.

Six construction workers remained missing Tuesday morning after a cargo ship struck and demolished a major bridge in Baltimore overnight, the authorities said. The ship’s crew notified authorities that they had lost power shortly before it struck the bridge, Gov. Wes Moore of Maryland said.

“We haven’t seen any credible evidence of a terrorist attack,” he said, calling it an accident.

Officials were searching for six members of a road repair crew who had been working on the Francis Scott Key Bridge, which is part of Interstate 695, when it collapsed, said Paul J. Wiedefeld, Maryland’s transportation secretary.

Two others had been rescued; one of them was in the hospital, Mr. Wiedefeld said, adding that the authorities did not think any drivers were submerged in their cars.

Mr. Moore said that after a mayday call was made ahead of the collapse, workers stopped cars from continuing onto the bridge, a rapid response that he credited with saving lives. “These people are heroes,” he said.

Here’s what else to know:

The Maryland governor declared a state of emergency and that said that his office was in close communication with Pete Buttigieg, the U.S. transportation secretary. The White House issued a statement saying that President Biden had been briefed on the collapse.

The ship is a 948-foot-long cargo vessel named Dali. The owners of the vessel, a Singapore-flagged ship, said it hit a pillar of the bridge around 1:30 a.m. All crew members, including two pilots onboard, have been accounted for and there were no injuries on the ship, the owners said. Maryland officials said the crew was still onboard.

The Dali left Baltimore at 1 a.m. and was bound for Colombo, Sri Lanka, according to MarineTraffic , a maritime data platform.

The bridge was named after Francis Scott Key, the Maryland-born author of the American national anthem, “The Star-Spangled Banner.” The structure opened in 1977 . Some 30,000 commuters drive on it each day, Maryland officials said.

Luke Broadwater

The cargo ship reported losing propulsion before the crash, and there was a call to officials warning of a possible collision, according to two sources familiar with the incident.

Aishvarya Kavi

Gov. Wes Moore said that after a mayday call was made ahead of the collapse, workers stopped cars from continuing onto the bridge, a rapid response that he said had saved lives. “These people are heroes.”

Francis Scott

Patapsco River

The ship left the Port

of Baltimore around

1 a.m. on Tuesday.

Where impact occurred

Direction of the ship

The ship hit the

bridge at 1:28 a.m.

The ship hit the bridge at 1:28 a.m.

Where impact

Sources: Spire Global, Google Earth

By Agnes Chang and Weiyi Cai

Campbell Robertson

Gov. Wes Moore said reconstructing the bridge would be a “long-term build.”

Nicholas Bogel-Burroughs

Wes Moore, Maryland’s governor, said the cargo ship’s crew told the authorities that they had lost power around the time that the ship struck the bridge.

Eight people are believed to have fallen into the water during the collapse, said Paul Wiedefeld, Maryland’s transportation secretary. All eight were part of a construction crew filling potholes. Six of those people are still missing, he said.

A reporter asked if officials thought anyone driving over the bridge had fallen into the water, aside from the construction workers. “We believe it’s the construction crew only,” the transportation secretary responded.

Maryland's governor declined to comment on when port operations might return to normal, saying that the “exclusive focus is on saving lives, search and rescue.”

Zach Montague

In response to questions, Gov. Wes Moore said the bridge was fully up to code, and that this didn't appear to be the result of a structural issue.

The Coast Guard is still “actively searching” the area with boats and helicopters, an official said.

The construction crew on the bridge at the time of the collapse was fixing potholes, said Paul Wiedefeld, the secretary of Maryland’s Transportation Department. He said they were not working on anything related to the structure of the bridge.

Wes Moore, the Maryland governor, said everyone’s hearts are breaking with the relatives of the victims. But, he added, the state and city will get through this tragedy: “We are Maryland tough, and we are Baltimore strong.”

Michael D. Shear

“We haven’t seen any credible evidence of a terrorist attack,” Gov. Wes Moore of Maryland said.

Gov. Wes Moore of Maryland is speaking to reporters on the north end, with the remnants of the collapsed bridge visible behind him. “The preliminary evidence points to an accident,” he said.

We are still investigating what happened, but we are quickly gathering details. The preliminary investigation points to an accident. We haven’t seen any credible evidence of a terrorist attack.

Mark Walker

The National Transportation Safety Board said it was dispatching a team to Baltimore to investigate the bridge collapse. The agency said it would also hold a news briefing later today but did not yet set a time.

Marquita Finch, 38, was among a dozen or so people who climbed an embankment along a highway in Dundalk, just south of Baltimore, to see the collapsed bridge. The job she was supposed to be at this morning was just on the other side of the bridge. “I’m probably going to lose that job,” she said. A lot of people would probably lose their jobs, she said.

The authorities have blocked the public and the news media from getting close to either end of the collapsed bridge, but, standing on a small boardwalk a few miles away, I was able to get a glimpse of the cargo ship as it sat in the water beside the mangled remnants of the bridge. Several helicopters are circling overhead.

Claire Moses and Nicholas Bogel-Burroughs

After the ship hit the bridge, a collapse seemed inevitable, engineers say.

The dramatic video of the collapse of the Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore will probably lodge itself in many people’s minds for a long time. But for engineers, seeing the footage might offer insight into why the span fell so quickly.

While it’s hard to know exactly what happened just from watching video, the impact of the major container ship on a key part of the bridge made the collapse of the bridge “pretty evident,” said Mark Richards, a structural engineer based in Britain who has worked in the field for 35 years. He was not involved in the construction of the Key Bridge.

When bridges are designed, Dr. Richards said, many scenarios — including risks and worst-case possibilities — are taken into account before the structures are built. Legislation also often requires that such possibilities are taken into account, he said.

Yet planning for any possible outcome is tough, he said.

“We can’t design every structure to accommodate every single possible event,” he said. But, he added, “these sorts of incidents are very, very, very rare.”

An investigation will have to show what went wrong, and which safeguards were in place to prevent such incidents. Other factors also have to be considered, he said, including the size and weight of the ship.

Sanjay R. Arwade, a professor of civil engineering at the University of Massachusetts Amherst, said that if the vessel had taken out one of the bridge’s two support piers, as it appeared to have done, a collapse would be almost inevitable.

“For any long-span bridge,” he said, “the complete loss of one of the piers is going to be catastrophic.”

After reports that the Port of Baltimore may be shut down, officials announced that traffic in and out of the port had been suspended but said it was still processing trucks. The collapse of the bridge is likely to be a blow to the region.

A steady flow of emergency vehicles from different agencies is passing by a media area as they make their way to the south end of the bridge. Just now, a fire department truck drove by with a small rescue boat in tow.

Jagged edges of the broken cantilever sticking up from the water were visible across the Patapsco River in Wagners Point. As the sun rose, workers in the industrial area stopped to walk toward the water and look out at the wreckage.

Paul Wiedefeld, Maryland’s transportation secretary, told CNN that it appears there were no injuries onboard the container ship that hit the bridge. He said an investigation into what happened would be conducted after the rescue effort, but he added that the ship seemed to have been off course before the impact and that “obviously it should be in the main channel, which is under that main span.”

The scene from the media staging area shows the northern edge of the road where the bridge used to be. The road simply ends as it arcs upward, with only a small bit of the tangled metal bridge evident from where it collapsed into the water.

The Federal Aviation Administration has issued a no-fly order in the area around the Key Bridge to allow rescue workers to continue to search for survivors from the air. Several helicopters have been flying over the bridge and its surroundings for several hours. The F.A.A. also warned people not to fly drones in the area.

Jenny Gross

About 40 ships, including 34 cargo vessels, currently have Baltimore listed as their destination, according to MarineTraffic, which tracks ships around the world. Georgios Hatzimanolis, who analyzes global shipping for MarineTraffic, said he expects some shipping delays. “We do expect there to be a ripple effect, but it’s a bit too early to say what the impact will be.”

Maryland’s transportation secretary calls the collapse ‘catastrophic.’

Maryland officials said that rescue workers were searching for road repair crews who had been working on the Key Bridge when it collapsed early Tuesday and were plunged into the bay’s cold waters.

Paul J. Wiedefeld, Maryland’s transportation secretary, called the episode a “catastrophic collapse,” saying that “we know there were individuals on the bridge at the time” it was struck by a container ship around 1:30 a.m.

Among those who were on the bridge, according to Mr. Wiedefeld, were workers doing repair to the bridge’s concrete deck. He said it was unclear how many workers were part of the crew when the span fell.

Mr. Wiedefeld said that Baltimore’s port had suspended all ship traffic in and out of the harbor but that trucks were still being allowed to pick up shipments at the port for delivery along the East Coast.

The water where the bridge collapsed is about 50 feet deep, Mr. Wiedefeld told reporters. He said it was too early to say how many cars or people might still be in the water.

He also dismissed questions about the potential cause of the accident and whether the ship may have lost power.

“Too early,” he said.

The White House just issued the following statement: “The President has been briefed on the collapse of the Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore and the ongoing search and rescue efforts. He will continue to receive updates from his team throughout the day.”

Baltimore’s port handled a record amount of cargo last year.

The collapse of the Francis Scott Key Bridge has brought the Port of Baltimore, an important trade hub, to a halt.

The port handled a record amount of cargo last year, making it the 20th biggest port in the nation ranked by total tons, according to the Bureau of Transportation Statistics . It ranks first in the United States for the volume of automobiles and light trucks it handles and for vessels that carry wheeled cargo, including farm and construction machinery, according to a statement by Gov. Wes Moore of Maryland last month.

Around the world, about 40 ships, including 34 cargo vessels, have Baltimore listed as a destination, including 10 commercial ships with anchors dropped in nearby waters, according to MarineTraffic, which tracks ships.

Georgios Hatzimanolis, who analyzes global shipping for MarineTraffic, said he expects the bridge collapse to cause shipping delays. “We do expect there to be a ripple effect, but it’s a bit too early to say what the impact will be,” he said. Ships heading to Baltimore with cargo to unload may instead go to ports in New Jersey or North Carolina, he said.

The port has also increasingly catered to large container ships like the Dali, the 948-foot-long cargo vessel carrying goods for the shipping giant Maersk that hit a pillar of the bridge around 1:30 a.m. on Tuesday. The Dali had spent two days in Baltimore’s port before setting off toward the 1.6-mile Francis Scott Key Bridge.

The arrival of large container ships to the port “continues to demonstrate Baltimore’s capabilities of handling supersized vessels,” Governor Moore said in the statement. The largest container ship ever to enter the port, as of February, arrived last year with the capacity to carry more than 15,000 20-foot containers.

State-owned terminals, managed by the Maryland Port Administration, and privately owned terminals in Baltimore transported a record 52.3 million tons of foreign cargo in 2023, worth $80 billion. The port handled nearly 850,000 cars and light trucks last year, more than in any other U.S. port for the past 13 years.

Other materials transported in large volumes through the city’s port include coal, coffee and sugar. It was the ninth-busiest port in the nation last year for receiving foreign cargo, in terms of volume and value.

The bridge’s collapse will also disrupt cruises traveling in and out of Baltimore. Norwegian Cruise Line last year began a new fall and winter schedule calling at the Port of Baltimore.

Derrick Bryson Taylor

Chief James Wallace of the Baltimore Fire Department said crew members were still aboard the Dali, the vessel that struct the bridge. “There has been communication between the ship crew and the Coast Guard,” he said.

Sarah Eckinger

An aerial view of the bridge shows the extent of the damage. Portions of the collapsed section are visible in the water, with a small span lying across the Dali container ship.

At the south side of the bridge, the Maryland Transportation Authority police have closed down access roads all throughout the Hawkins Point neighborhood. An officer said contractors were being let through to start assessing damage.

The Maryland transportation secretary said there was an unknown number of workers doing repairs on the bridge’s concrete deck when it collapsed.

A Coast Guard spokeswoman said rescuers were searching for survivors in the water, which is approximately 50 feet deep where the bridge was struck, according to Paul Wiedefeld, Maryland's transportation secretary.

Paul Wiedefeld, Maryland’s transportation secretary, called it “catastrophic collapse” at a news conference, adding “we know there were individuals on the bridge at the time.”

Signs along Interstate 95 heading into Baltimore blared the news for the morning commuters: "KEY BRIDGE CLOSED," causing slowdowns as cars and trucks sought alternate routes.

We are waiting for a news conference with the Maryland Transportation Authority to begin any minute now at the north end of the bridge.

Baltimore’s fire chief, James Wallace, said at a news conference that search and rescue efforts would be guided by dive teams. “We will determine what the temperature of the water is,” he said. “The other issue we have out there is that this water is current influenced. So right now, we think the tide is coming back in. That adds a bit of a challenge to us.”

From the base of the north end of the bridge, you can just barely see the ship that struck it. Several dozen shipping containers can be seen stacked on top of it.

Johnny Olszewski Jr., the Baltimore County executive, said at the news conference that he thought people were stunned and reeling from the incident. “I think that’s particularly true for people who are worried about their loved ones right now,” he said. “I think there will be plenty of time to talk about what this bridge means to the community, what it means to commerce.”

There is “absolutely no indication” that the vessel struck the bridge intentionally, said Richard Worley, the Baltimore Police commissioner.

“This is a tragedy that you can never imagine,” said Brandon Scott, the Baltimore mayor. He said the video of the collapse “looked like something out of an action movie” and asked for people to keep their focus on the rescue efforts and the relatives of anyone missing.

James Wallace, the Baltimore City fire chief, said the department has used sonar to detect vehicles that fell into the water. He did not know exactly how many were on the bridge when it collapsed.

The sky is brightening in Dundalk, Md., at the north end of where the bridge stood. Helicopters are still moving overhead as city officials announce from the south end that the search and rescue are ongoing.

Jin Yu Young

The Key Bridge was named after the national anthem’s author.

The Francis Scott Key Bridge, which collapsed after being struck by a cargo ship early Tuesday, was named after the American lawyer who wrote the lyrics of the national anthem. Construction of the bridge started in 1972 and was completed in March 1977.

Plans for the bridge began in the early 1970s, after traffic inundated the Baltimore Harbor Tunnel, through which Interstate 895 crosses the harbor. When the bridge opened, The New York Times reported that construction costs had totaled $141 million, which is roughly $735 million in today’s dollars.

More than 12.4 million passenger and commercial vehicles crossed the bridge in 2023, according to a Maryland state government report .

The bridge itself spans 1.6 miles over the Patapsco River, but the crossing’s overall structure, including its connecting approaches, is almost 11 miles long. As part of Interstate 695, it is the outermost of three major crossings of the Baltimore Harbor.

Francis Scott Key was believed to be near the site of the future bridge in 1814 when he observed the British bombardment of Fort McHenry, where he served as quartermaster, during the War of 1812. The battle inspired Mr. Key to write a poem called “The Defense of Fort M’Henry” that would later be set to the music of a popular British tune and renamed “The Star-Spangled Banner.” It became the national anthem in 1931.

After the bridge opened to the public, parts of it underwent renovation several times, including a $14 million project in 1986 to repair damage, improve safety and restore the bridge’s appearance.

Claire Moses and Jenny Gross

The Dali was just starting a 27-day voyage.

The Dali was less than 30 minutes into its planned 27-day journey when the ship ran into the Francis Scott Key Bridge on Tuesday.

The ship, which was sailing under the Singaporean flag, was on its way to Sri Lanka and was supposed to arrive there on April 22, according to VesselFinder, a ship tracking website.

The Dali, which is nearly 1,000 feet long, left the Baltimore port around 1 a.m. Eastern on Tuesday. The ship had two pilots onboard, according to a statement by its owners, Grace Ocean Investment. There were 22 crew members on board, the Maritime & Port Authority of Singapore said in a statement. There were no reports of any injuries, Grace Ocean said.

Before heading off on its voyage, the Dali had returned to the United States from Panama on March 19, harboring in New York. It then arrived on Saturday in Baltimore, where it spent two days in the port.

Maersk, the shipping giant, said in a statement on Tuesday that it had chartered the vessel, which was carrying Maersk cargo. No Maersk crew and personnel were onboard, the statement said, adding that the company was monitoring the investigations being carried out by the authorities and by Synergy Group, the company that was operating the vessel.

“We are horrified by what has happened in Baltimore, and our thoughts are with all of those affected,” the Maersk statement said.

The Dali was built in 2015 by the South Korea-based Hyundai Heavy Industries. The following year, the ship was involved in a minor incident when it hit a stone wall at the port of Antwerp . The Dali sustained damage at the time, but no one was injured.

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Photos, video show collapse of Baltimore's Francis Scott Key Bridge after cargo ship collision

The Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore, Maryland collapsed Tuesday into the Patapsco River after it was struck by a large cargo ship.

The bridge's collapse has prompted huge emergency response, with the Baltimore City Fire Department describing the collapse as a mass-casualty incident, and rescue crews searching for seven people in the river. Maryland Gov. Wes Moore has declared a state of emergency.

Baltimore  Mayor Brendon Scott  said on X that he was aware of the incident and was en route to the bridge. "Emergency personnel are on scene, and efforts are underway," he said.

The 1.6 mile, 4-lane bridge named for the author of the "Star-Spangled Banner," was the second-longest continuous-truss bridge span in the United States and third in the world.

Follow here for live updates → Baltimore's Key Bridge collapses after ship collision; rescue effort underway

Photos show collapsed Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore

Videos show francis scott key bridge's collapse.

The bridge's collapse, which came after it was struck by a container ship, was distributed on social media.

What did the Francis Scott Key Bridge look like before it was hit?

Contributing: Charles Ventura, Thao Nguyen and Susan Miller, USA TODAY .

What we know about the container ship that crashed into the Baltimore bridge

• The ship that crashed into the Francis Scott Key Bridge on Tuesday was the Singapore-flagged Dali.
• Authorities say the situation is a "mass casualty event."
• Two people have been recovered from the water, with one in a "very serious condition," the fire chief said.

A container ship crashed into a major bridge in Baltimore early Tuesday, causing its collapse into the Patapsco River.

A livestream showed vehicles traveling on the Francis Scott Key Bridge just moments before the impact at 1:28 a.m. ET.

Baltimore first responders called the situation a "developing mass casualty event" and a "dire emergency," per The Associated Press.

James Wallace, chief of the Baltimore Fire Department, said in a press conference that two people had been recovered from the water.

One was uninjured, but the other was transported to a local trauma center in a "very serious condition."

Wallace added that rescuers are looking for at least seven people. Sonar detected several vehicles submerged in the water, but no precise number was available as of the 6:30 a.m. press conference.

Richard Worley, Baltimore's police chief, said there was "no indication" the collision was purposeful or an act of terrorism.

Wes Moore, the governor of Maryland, declared a state of emergency around 6 a.m. ET. He said his office was in close communication with Pete Buttigieg, the transportation secretary.

"We are working with an interagency team to quickly deploy federal resources from the Biden Administration," Moore added.

The Volunteer Firefighters from @jmvfc8 , the Volunteer Swift Water Team and the @HarfordCoDES Special Operations Team are assisting the Unified Command at the Baltimore Francis Scott Key Bridge collapse. pic.twitter.com/ipoTR2HljY — Harford Co., MD Fire & EMS (@HarforCoFireEMS) March 26, 2024

Understanding why the bridge collapsed could have implications for safety, in both the shipping and civil engineering sectors.

The vessel is the Dali, a Singapore-flagged container ship about 984 feet long, and 157 feet wide, per a listing on VesselFinder.

An unclassified Cybersecurity and Infrastructure Security Agency report said that the ship "lost propulsion" as it was leaving port, ABC News reported.

The crew notified officials that they had lost control and warned of a possible collision, the report said, per ABC News.

The Dali's owner is listed as Grace Ocean, a Singapore-based firm, and its manager is listed as Synergy Marine, which is also headquartered in Singapore.

Related stories

Shipping news outlet TradeWinds reported that Grace Ocean confirmed the Dali was involved in the collapse, but is still determining what caused the crash.

Staff for Grace Ocean declined to comment on the collision when contacted by Business Insider.

"All crew members, including the two pilots have been accounted for and there are no reports of any injuries. There has also been no pollution," Synergy Marine said in a statement.

The company did not respond to a request for further comment from BI.

Maersk chartered the Dali, with a schedule for the ship on its website.

"We are horrified by what has happened in Baltimore, and our thoughts are with all of those affected," the Danish shipping company said in a statement.

Maersk added: "We are closely following the investigations conducted by authorities and Synergy, and we will do our utmost to keep our customers informed."

Per ship tracking data, the Dali left Baltimore on its way to Colombo, the capital of Sri Lanka, at around 1 a.m., about half an hour before the crash.

The Port of Baltimore is thought to be the largest in the US for roll-on/roll-off ships carrying trucks and trailers.

Barbara Rossi, associate professor of engineering science at the University of Oxford, told BI the force of the impact on one of the bridge's supporting structures "must have been immense" to lead to the collapse.

Dr Salvatore Mercogliano, a shipping analyst and maritime historian at Campbell University, told BI: "It appears Dali left the channel while outbound. She would have been under the control of the ship's master with a Chesapeake Bay pilot onboard to advise the master. The deviation out of the channel is probably due to a mechanical issue as the ship had just departed the port, but you cannot rule out human error as that was the cause of the Ever Forward in 2022 just outside of Baltimore."

He was referring to the incident two years ago when the container ship became grounded for a month in Chesapeake Bay after loading up cargo at the Port of Baltimore.

The US Coast Guard found the incident was caused by pilot error, cellphone use, and "inadequate bridge resource management."

Claudia Norrgren, from the maritime research firm Veson Nautical, told BI: "The industry bodies who are here to protect against incidents like this, such as the vessel's flag state, classification society, and regulatory bodies, will step in and conduct a formal investigation into the incident. Until then, it'll be very hard for anyone to truly know what happened on board."

This may not have been the first time the Dali hit a structure.

In 2016, maritime blogs such as Shipwreck Log and ship-tracking site VesselFinder posted videos of what appears to be the stern of the same, blue-hulled container vessel scraping against a quay in Antwerp.

A representative for the Port of Antwerp told BI the Dali did collide with a quay there eight years ago but couldn't "give any information about the cause of the accident."

The Dali is listed as being built in 2015 by Hyundai Heavy Industries in South Korea.

Watch: The shipwreck at the center of a battle between China and the Philippines

• Main content

Baltimore bridge collapse latest: Six people still missing as two pulled from water; ship issued mayday before crash

The Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore has collapsed after a cargo ship collided with it following a loss of power. Two people have been pulled from the water, with six still missing. They're believed to be construction workers.

Tuesday 26 March 2024 14:31, UK

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• Major bridge collapses in Baltimore after being struck by a cargo ship
• Six people still missing as two pulled from water
• Ship issued mayday before crash | Container ship appears to lose power and start smoking before hitting bridge
• Video of collapse
• Dali vessel involved in separate incident in 2016
• What is this bridge?
• Special edition of World programme on Sky News tonight at 9pm
• Live reporting by Katie Williams

By Martha Kelner , US correspondent in Baltimore

I was able to get a clear view of what remains of the Francis Scott Key Bridge. 

The whole middle section of the bridge, including the two main support piers, have completely collapsed. 

The mangled metal of the bridge now rests atop the stack of cargo containers on the Dali ship. 

Jim, who lives in a house on the banks of the Patapsco River, about a mile away from the bridge, was woken around 1.30am by the noise. 

"It was an indescribable sound," he tells me. "At first I thought it was a sonic boom from the aircraft. I never imagined something like this could happen."

A person has been pictured being transferred into the back of an ambulance in Baltimore, where there is a heavy emergency services presence.

It's unclear whether they are a crew member of the ship or a rescued worker.

Paul Wiedfeld, secretary of the Maryland Department of Transportation, says emergency responders are still searching for six people in the water. 

Eight people were initially unaccounted for - one person is in hospital in a serious condition, while another did not need treatment. 

Mr Wiedfeld says he believes those missing are the construction crew who were repairing potholes on the bridge.

He adds he doesn't believe there is anyone in the water who was inside a vehicle.

Mayday was issued

Officials confirmed the ship that crashed into the bridge had issued a may day call and had lost power.

Maryland governor Wes Moore is then asked whether the bridge could have been closed after the mayday call was issued.

He says the boat was travelling at a speed of eight knots so there was limited time, but that those who received the distress call prevented vehicles from coming onto the bridge.

"Those people are heroes, they saved lives," he says.

Wes Moore says the rebuilding of the bridge is going to be "long term".

It is going to "require every facet and every aspect of our society", the governor for Maryland says.

"We are going to get this done... we are going to rebuild in a way that remembers the people this tragedy has impacted," he says.

Earlier, an expert told Sky News the rebuild could cost more than £600m.

Paul Wiedfeld, secretary of the Maryland Department of Transportation, says the crew on the bridge at the time of the collapse were working to repair potholes.

The work had "nothing to do with a structural issue", he told the news conference.

Bill DelBagno, special agent in charge of Baltimore's FBI field office, is next to speak, and says: "I want to be clear that there is no specific or credible information to suggest that there are ties to terrorism."

He says the FBI has been part of the operation "from the beginning" and has brought a crisis response team.

The National Transportation Safety Board will be conducting an investigation into the incident, Senator Chris van Hollen tells the news conference.

He says the federal government is with Baltimore and "our hearts go out to all those who were on the bridge and their loved ones".

US secretary of transportation Pete Buttigieg will release emergency response funds to the area soon, Mr van Hollen says.

"We're with you, we love you, we will get through this together," he adds.

Maryland governor Wes Moore says response teams are doing "everything in their power" to recover the casualties of the bridge collapse.

The state is "in shock", he says in a news conference in Baltimore. "I recognise many of us are hurting right now, I recognise many of us are scared right now."

Details are being gathered "quickly" but the preliminary investigation points to it being an accident, he says, adding that there is no information to suggest it was terrorism-related.

Addressing the victims and their families, Mr Moore says: "All of our hearts are broken... we're thinking of you and we will always be thinking of you."

Baltimore mayor Brandon Scott has declared a local state of emergency after the collapse of the Key Bridge.

An executive order posted by Mr Scott on X says the city's emergency operations plan will now be implemented.

The order will remain in place for 30 days.

The mayor said teams are "mobilising resources and working swiftly to address this crisis".

Maryland governor Wes Moore and other officials are expected to hold a news conference in Baltimore shortly.

We'll bring you all the key updates here in the blog.

Baltimore's fire department says "numerous" water rescue and dive teams from across the county have been deployed to the area of the bridge collapse.

Fire chief James Wallace said in a news conference this morning that crews "may be looking for upwards of seven people" - but that number could change.

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