bottom paint for sailboat

Sailboat Bottom Paint: 10 Best Paints

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

If you leave your boat without protection, it's beyond question that it will start attracting several marine organisms such as slime, algae, mussels, barnacle, and seaweed. This will cover the bottom of your sailboat and may negatively affect your boat's speed and fuel efficiency.

This is exactly why you need to apply the best sailboat bottom paint on your boat.

The freedom that sailing and being off land gives you are immense and almost unmatched.

But do you know that having multiple organisms such as algae, slime, barnacle, seaweed, and mussels grow on your boat can throw everything out on the wind and leave you with a very unreliable boat?

These pesky hangers will put a huge dent in your boat's speed, its movement, fuel efficiency, and overall aesthetic.

That's why you need the best sailboat bottom paint to greatly minimize any damage that might be caused to your boat's hull by marine biological growth.

Also known as antifouling paint, bottom paint is essentially a paint or coating that's specifically designed with elements that prevent various marine organisms such as algae, seaweed, barnacles, slime, and mussels from attaching themselves to your boat's hull or any other part of the boat that's below the waterline.

One of the most important elements of bottom paint is the inclusion of a biocide and copper is the most common. This may, however, depend on the type of boat that you have, how, and where you always use it.

But because there's an ocean of bottom paints out there on the market, choosing the best sailboat bottom paint can be an overwhelming task for most of us.

Fortunately, you can always count on us to make it a lot easier for you. We've gone through many bottom paints and we do not doubt that we've selected the most effective, reliable, and best sailboat bottom paint.

Our unbiased selections will not only match your needs and budget but will be available in a variety of colors to complement and augment your boat's visual appeal.

Table of contents

What to Consider when Purchasing Sailboat Bottom Paint

If you're on the market for the best sailboat bottom paint, it's crucial to go for top quality; something that will offer efficiency, top speed, and excellent performance for your sailboat. With that in mind, here are a few things to consider before spending your hard-earned money on bottom paint.

Your Sailing Location

Where are you planning to sail? Is it on a freshwater body or in a saltwater location? This is essential in helping you determine whether to go for a bottom paint that's meant for saltwater, freshwater, or both. It's generally recommended that you go for a bottom paint that will serve you perfectly well in both freshwater and saltwater. This gives you the versatility of sailing anywhere without worrying about marine organisms damaging your boat's hull.

Launch Time and Recoat Time

It's important to keep in mind that bottom paint products have specific launch time limits. The idea here is to ensure that you launch it within the required timeframe and ensure that recoating is done as required. You should, therefore, choose a bottom paint that offers a lengthy launch and recoat time while offering durable protection for your vessel is the right thing to do.

Type of Boat

You should determine whether your boat is made of wood, fiberglass, or aluminum and go for bottom paint that's suitable for that particular surface. Many bottom paints work perfectly with fiberglass but some work great with aluminum or wooden surfaces.

The Fouling Condition

Having a deeper idea of the type of fouling that you might deal with can be crucial when buying the right bottom paint for you. Whether you're dealing with slime, algae, mussel, or any other type of marine organism, knowing the type of fouling you're dealing with will make it a lot easier to pick the best sailboat bottom paint for your vessel.

Best Sailboat Bottom Paint

Rust-oleum marine flat boat bottom antifouling paint.

As one of the most respected brand names in the bottom paint industry, Rust-Oleum is known for producing some of the best sailboat bottom paint and the Marine Flat Boat Bottom Antifouling Paint is one of them. This bottom pain is designed to be suitable for various conditions (both freshwater and saltwater) and is designed with moderate copper that works great if you are environment-conscious.

This bottom paint does an excellent job of offering a protective coating to ensure that your boat is free of all sorts of unwanted marine organisms. You'll love this paint because it is thick and spreads so easily and will not be a problem even if you're a beginner. This bottom paint offers top-notch antifouling properties and is very easy to apply as long as you use a soft brush and mix it carefully. This is a great bottom paint choice that will offer a sleek multi-season finish and ensure that your boat's hull is always awesome and in great condition.

• ‍ Easy and simple to apply
• Great for both freshwater and saltwater
• Offers gentle fouling conditions
• Excellent in antifouling
• Offer a sleek and awesome finish
• ‍ Quite expensive
• Has a very strong smell that can cause headache

Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote Antifouling Paint

This is another great brand that is considered as one of the best bottom paint in the sailing world. Even though it's a bit pricey, it offers great features that will ensure that your boat remains in tip-top shape. It is an excellent option if you're looking for a sailboat bottom paint that brings to the fore a unique dual resin approach.

This is a very reliable bottom paint that will not only prevent your boat's hull from the effect of marine organisms but also prevent premature deterioration. It offers an awesome polishing action and is perfecting if you want to discard unnecessary paint buildup. This bottom paint is also very economical and a small quantity will cover a considerable surface area of your boat's bottom.

This is, without a doubt, a superb buy in terms of its practicality and economical nature. It is excellently formulated to prevent marine organisms from damaging your boat and also to ensure that premature wear and tear doesn't exist in your vocabulary.

• ‍ It's formulated with a unique dual resin approach to prevent premature wear and tear
• It prevents early decline
• It prevents unnecessary paint buildup
• Great for ensuring that your boat is fuel effective
• Great for all conditions (both freshwater and saltwater)
• ‍ It's expensive
• The quantity and size can be misleading

TotalBoat JD Select Bottom Paint

As one of the few bottom paints that's formulated with low Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC), this bottom paint is one of the most cost-effective on this list. With one gallon, you can easily cover about 400 square feet and the application is a breeze since it's even much easier to clean up.

When you purchase this bottom paint, the package will come complete with a pair of latex gloves, a wooden stir stick, an abrasive pad, a metal tray kit, a paint suit, a roller, a painter's tape, and many more. The inclusion of all these accessories makes it a quite cost-effective purchase.

Again, this is one of the most durable bottom paints. Apply it on your boat's hull and you're guaranteed that it will offer excellent protection for the next 18 months. On the downside, this paint is too thick and you'll have to buy an excellent thinner for it to work perfectly.

Nonetheless, this is an ablative bottom paint that is easy to apply and does an excellent job of protecting your boat's bottom for close to two years.

• ‍ Perfect for all conditions
• Easy to apply and clean up
• Can improve your boat's speed and fuel efficiency
• Comes with all accessories required for the paint job
• It's one of the best water-based bottom paint products in the industry
• It contains low VOC
• ‍ You'll need a top-quality thinner for it to work perfectly

Aquaguard Water-based Antifouling Bottom Paint

An excellent choice for both wooden and fiberglass boats, this is the most perfect bottom point for saltwater conditions. This is a water-based bottom paint that's very easy to apply and clean up (using soap and water) and is formulated with an ablative action that makes it superb for preventing any marine organism that may negatively affect your boat.

This is a bottom paint that is EPA-approved and surpasses the set VOC standards. It has an extended shelf life and offers durable protection for your sailboat. It doesn't contain toxic fumes and is great even for novices. Its drying time is also excellent, so you won't wait for far too long to get your boat out there on the water.

• ‍ Excellent for saltwater conditions
• Application and cleaning is very easy
• It's approved by the US EPA
• You don't have to use a primer
• ‍ The color selection is limited
• A bit pricey

Pettit Hydrocoat

This is another water-based bottom paint that offers outstanding ablative properties that will protect your boat from marine organisms throughout the seasons. It offers good value for money and is easy to apply and clean up with just water and soap.

We're talking about a bottom paint product that will protect your boat's hull for months on end. You also do not need a full tank of the paint to complete the job. With just a single gallon, you can be sure to complete an area as big as 430 square feet.

This is also one of the few bottom paints that can perfectly prevent your boat from damage when being trailered, launched, or beached. More importantly, it's not irritating to the nose and eyes because it has low VOC.

• ‍ It will dry in 3 hours
• It's easy to apply and clean up
• It offers multi-season protection
• It's not irritating to the eyes and nose
• It's quite economical
• ‍ May not be the best in antifouling
• You have to apply at least two coats

SEA HAWK PAINTS Aluminum Boat Paint

One of the best aluminum boat paints in the market, this bottom paint is formulated to offer quick-dry corrosion-blocking, high-solid features. This bottom paint is specifically manufactured to be used in aluminum boats and doesn't require the addition of any primer.

While it doesn't have an antifouling feature, it stands out and can be used both below and above the waterline as it is risk-free and free or chromate. It is also formulated to offer a unique dual resin approach and can be used both as paint and a primer at the same time.

This is a great paint for both freshwater and saltwater conditions and can be applied as a primer or topcoat on a fiberglass boat. This is an excellent sailboat boat bottom paint that's worth every coin as it is practical, versatile, and can combat both rusting and lifting.

• ‍ The application and cleanup process is easy
• Great for both freshwater and saltwater conditions
• It doesn't require a primer
• Can be used as primer or topcoat in fiberglass boats
• Can prevent rusting and lifting
• It has quick-dry and anti-corrosion features
• ‍ Can produce deadly fumes

TotalBoat Spartan Boat Bottom Paint

If you've been looking for a practical, reliable, and cost-effecting bottom paint that will offer durable performance and protection, the Spartan Boat Bottom Paint. Perfect for both freshwater and saltwater, it can be perfect for protecting your boat and ensuring that it is fuel-efficient and reliable.

This bottom paint is formulated with advanced copolymer ablative to ensure that it doesn't deteriorate instantly. This is a very dependable bottom paint that will serve you perfectly throughout the year and will ensure that your boat easily defies fouling while reducing unnecessary buildup and sanding on your boat.

This is a very adaptable bottom paint that not only offers great value for money but is very easy to apply. More importantly, it is very durable and will protect your vessel for at least 12 months on any type of water.

• ‍ Great for all types of water
• It offers a very durable protection
• Available in a wide variety of color selection
• Offer a visually appealing abrasion-proof finish
• ‍ The included accessories aren't up to the right quality

To this end, we must put a lot of emphasis on the importance of having the right bottom paint for your boat. In addition to being an antifouling agent, bottom paint will significantly increase the fuel efficiency of your boat and ensure that it performs optimally at all times. Of course, you do not want to diminish your sailing escapades or have your nice and beautiful vessel damaged by marine organisms just because you didn't apply the right sailboat bottom paint. If you're unsure how to proceed, here's how to paint a sailboat.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Sailing Smoothly: The Best Guide to Selecting the Perfect Bottom Paint for Your Boat

Maintaining your boat’s performance and longevity is deeply anchored in the choice of the right bottom paint. It’s not just about aesthetics; it’s about creating a shield against marine life that can slow you down.

Dive into this all-encompassing guide to discover how the right bottom paint, tailored to your boating lifestyle, can make a world of difference.

The Vital Role of Bottom Paint

Think of your boat’s hull as a warrior in constant battle against underwater foes. Without bottom paint, it’s vulnerable to fouling, which can lead to reduced speed and efficiency. The secret weapon? Bottom paint infused with biocides that repel these unwelcome guests, keeping your hull sleek and swift.

Exploring the Seas of Bottom Paint Choices

Navigating the world of bottom paints can be like sailing through uncharted waters. There’s hard paint for the long haul, ablative paint that gracefully wears away with use, and even eco-friendly options that embrace green sailing. Each type has its unique strengths, so your choice should reflect your nautical needs.

The Copper Conundrum

Copper-based paints have long been the go-to for their fouling-fighting prowess. But as we become more conscious of our environmental impact, it’s important to weigh the effectiveness against potential ecological concerns.

Tailoring Paint to Your Boating Style

Your boating habits are the compass that guides your choice of bottom paint. Whether you’re leisurely cruising or racing against the wind, there’s a paint that aligns perfectly with your aquatic adventures:

Cruising Boats

With sleek and sturdy boats, their hulls coated in durable paint, resist the corrosive forces of time and tide. These vessels offer unwavering protection, allowing you to sail confidently through any weather conditions.

Racing Boats

For those seeking speed, ablative paints provide a slick and clean surface that is crucial for cutting through the waves. Their sleek, streamlined bodies sliced through the water with precision and speed. Each boat was coated in a shimmering layer of ablative paint, creating a smooth and clean surface that was essential for achieving maximum velocity.

Factors to Navigate When Choosing Paint

The waters you sail, the material of your hull, and even local laws are crucial markers in your journey to the perfect paint:

As you glide through the vast expanse of ocean, the type of water beneath your boat plays a crucial role in determining the ideal paint for your vessel. The crystal clear waters of a freshwater lake call for a different coating than the salty waves of the open sea. And even the laws and regulations of the local area can impact your choice of paint.

Hull Material

Selecting the hull material for your boat is like choosing a vessel as a sailor. The material you choose will play a crucial role in determining which type of paint will adhere best and provide optimal protection for your boat. Think carefully about your options, for the material itself can greatly impact the performance and longevity of your watercraft on the open seas.

DIY or Professional

Taking on a DIY project can be both exciting and daunting. Are you confident in your skills to paint your own ship, or will you leave it to the professionals? Consider the type of paint you choose–some are more forgiving for those without professional experience. As you set out on this endeavor, envision yourself as a deckhand navigating rough seas, armed with your chosen brush and paint, ready to transform your ship into a masterpiece.

Local Rules of the Sea

As you sail the open sea, always keep a vigilant watch on the horizon for any local regulations that may dictate your voyage. Pay special attention to any restrictions regarding copper-based options, as they may affect your journey in unexpected ways. Stay informed and navigate confidently to ensure smooth sailing ahead.

Final Thoughts

Your boat is more than a vessel; it’s a testament to your passion for the sea. Choosing the right bottom paint is a crucial step in ensuring it remains your faithful companion on countless voyages. With a keen understanding of the types of bottom paint and a thoughtful consideration of your boating style and environment, you can set sail confidently, knowing your boat is as ready for adventure as you are. Keep your hull in prime condition, and the sea will always welcome you with open arms.

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BOTTOM PAINTING

As a boat owner, getting dragged to the depths of the ocean by a giant sea monster is probably not high on your list of concerns. But make no mistake, there are some very foul creatures lurking beneath the waves.

We’re talking microscopic sea monsters: acorn barnacles, zebra mussels and slime-causing bacteria that cause serious hull drag, and wallet drain from higher fuel costs and repair bills.

You may not even know they’re there until it’s too late because they don’t come at you flailing ferocious tentacles, at least not ones you can see. What you will see—and want to prevent—is the ugly, dirty, slimy mess they make on the bottom of your hull that decreases your speed and increases your fuel bill because your engine has to work harder. A fouled hull bottom is also a safety risk because it can decrease your ability to maneuver.

Battle the barnacles and other biofouling bottom huggers with the right bottom paint for smoother sailing.

Choosing an Antifouling Bottom Paint

Location, location, location, types of antifouling bottom paint, which bottom paint is best for your boat, figuring how much paint you need, how to strike a waterline on your boat, bottom painting equipment, surface prep for bottom painting, best conditions for bottom painting, bottom painting like a pro.

The purpose of applying antifouling bottom paint is to prevent hard biofouling organisms like mussels, barnacles, and tubeworms, and soft growth like weeds and algae (slime!) from attaching to your hull below the waterline.

There are several different antifouling coatings available, with new ones being formulated all the time, making it very difficult to choose the paint that’s right for your boat and your budget. Some coatings work better in different locations, including fresh or salt water. Some are more environmentally friendly than others, and some cost more based on the type of biocide and the protection they provide.

The key antifouling ingredient in bottom paint is some type of biocide for deterring hard marine growth. Some antifouling paints also include an algaecide for preventing soft growth.

Biocide basics : For centuries, some form of copper has been used successfully to prevent the attachment of barnacles and other marine growth on hull bottoms. Today, the type of copper most commonly contained in antifouling paint is either cuprous oxide or cuprous thiocyanate. Cuprous thiocyanate has the added benefits of being a lighter copper in terms of color, so it produces brighter, truer paint colors. Also, paints using cuprous thiocyanate use half the amount of copper used in conventional, heavier cuprous oxide paints.

Because copper in the concentrations used in antifouling paints is a potential threat to some marine ecosystems, there are now equally effective, eco-friendly, antifouling paints that contain a metal-free biocide called Econea™ (main ingredient is tralopyril). Econea’s main benefit is that it dissolves after it is shed into the water, leaving no byproduct to harm marine life. Its secondary benefit is that it allows for the creation of brightly colored paints, unlike bottom paints containing cuprous oxide as the biocide.

Algaecide basics: If you use your boat in an area where slime, algae, and grass growth on the bottom of your hull are common, you need an antifouling paint that also contains an algaecide to prevent this soft growth. In the past, some antifouling paints contained an algaecide called Irgarol, which is no longer being used. Irgarol was discontinued because of its persistence after release into the water, and harmful effects on marine life. Zinc pyrithione (Zinc Omadine™) is now the slime-fighting agent used in many antifouling bottom paints. Its effectiveness is similar to Irgarol, but it dissipates quickly and harmlessly into marine or fresh water ecosystems. Zinc pyrithione is found in chemical solvent-based and water-based antifouling marine paints.

Chemical solvent-based or water-based antifouling paint? Another consideration is the type of solvent in the paint. Solvents keep the biocide, algaecide (if included), and pigment suspended in the paint so they’re distributed evenly in the coating as it’s applied to the hull surface. In the past, most antifouling paints contained harsh chemical solvents, and required the use of chemical solvents for thinning and cleanup. Those harsh chemical solvents contain toxic VOCs (volatile organic compounds) that evaporate easily into the atmosphere. To help meet environmental regulations in some areas of the country, and the world, there are now water-based paints, that also use water for thinning and cleanup. Many of these water-based antifouling paints contain the biocide Econea, and zinc pyrithione as the algaecide, because both dissolve in the water after release.

Won’t a water-based antifouling paint just dissolve and leave the hull unprotected while the boat is in the water? : The short answer is no. As the water-based paint cures, the water evaporates, leaving behind a protective film of biocide and/or algaecide, and pigment.

Teflon and vinyl bottom paints : Teflon paints are expensive, dry quickly, cure to a very thin film, and are ideal for fresh water areas where algae is a problem. Vinyl bottom paints are hard bottom paints that can be burnished smooth for racing, and are especially effective in saltwater, though not as effective as ablative paints for battling biofouling organisms. Both Teflon and vinyl bottom paints are used more to enhance performance, as in race boats, instead of antifouling.

Proprietary two-part bottom coatings : These products are new and expensive, using patented chemical formulas to create a hard and very slippery biofilm that doesn’t allow living organisms to attach to the boat.

Deciding on bottom paint is a regional, sometimes section-of-the-harbor-specific choice. It’s based on lots of variables like water temperature, silt, substrate, pollution, water flow, biofouling organisms present, and the frequency and type of boating you do.

Making that choice is made even harder because a bottom paint that works in one part of the harbor may not be as effective a few hundred yards away in that same harbor–even on the same type of boat.

The general consensus is there’s more fouling activity in warmer water and still water, and less growth in water that’s colder or where there’s more current flowing beneath the hull. It’s also harder for biofoulers to attach to a moving target, so the more you use your boat, the cleaner the bottom should remain.

At any rate, it’s always a good idea to ask fellow boaters and local boatyard professionals to help pinpoint paints that work best where your boat floats.

Bottom paints are usually one of two types: hard or ablative, with variations whose effectiveness depends on how much time the boat spends in the water, and how often it moves.

Hard bottom paints are typically less expensive than ablative antifouling paints. However, hard paints are effective for a single season, and they build up season after season, eventually requiring costly removal. Ablative paints come in single-season and multiseason varieties and don’t build up.

Hard bottom paint dries hard, stays that way, and doesn’t wear away gradually like an ablative paint. It works constantly while the boat is in the water, regardless of whether the boat is moving, and stops working once all its copper biocide gradually leaches out. So the coating can still be in great shape, but the biocide is gone and so is the protection. Water can seep in to the unprotected coating and damage the hull. Also, because hard bottom paint doesn’t wear away, it builds up and eventually has to be removed–a costly, labor-intensive endeavor.

Another problem for hard bottom paints is they lose their copper faster–and their effectiveness–if the boat is kept out of the water more than 60 days after applying bottom paint. For this reason, hard bottom paint is typically used on boats that remain in the water for extended periods. It’s also great for boats operated at faster speeds, like racing boats, because it can be burnished to increase hull smoothness and speed, unlike ablative bottom paints.

Ablative bottom paint wears away gradually as water flows under the hull, either from use or tidal movements. As the paint wears away, it exposes a fresh burst of biocide to keep biofoulers from attaching to the surface. There are ablative paints for multiple season use, and others that are effective for a single season. The single-season ablatives are typically less expensive than the multiple season ablatives.

For most ablative paints to work effectively, motion is required, so this paint is best if you use your boat fairly often–at least once a week. A hull painted with a single-season ablative antifouling paint can be pulled and left out of the water up to two weeks, but will require a light scuffing with a Scotch-Brite pad to reactivate the antifouling properties directly prior to launching.

A hull coated with a multi-season ablative can be pulled and left out of the water up to two weeks, without scuffing to reactivate the antifouling. However, after two weeks, scuffing is required directly before launching.

Self-polishing, copolymer ablative bottom paint also wears away gradually to expose fresh layers of biocide. However, it’s effective whether or not the boat is moving because it uses a self-polishing, controlled-release, copper copolymer formula. Some copolymer ablatives can last multiple seasons, requiring only a light scuffing to reactivate the antifouling in the spring, directly before launching.

Hybrid copolymer ablative bottom paint has all the self-polishing, controlled-release biocide benefits of a copolymer ablative. The difference is that it can also be burnished–like a hard bottom paint–for smoothness and speed, unlike other ablative bottom paints. And there’s less buildup to remove next season, as with hard bottom paints.

Preventing biofouling is not a one-shot-and-you’re-done deal, and no bottom paint is best for every boat. Your decision depends on answers to these practical questions.

What type of hull do you have? Most bottom paints contain copper as their antifouling biocide, which is fine for wooden, and fiberglass/gelcoat hulls, but causes galvanic corrosion, which will destroy a pontoon boat or an aluminum hull. For use on aluminum hulls, aluminum bottom paint typically uses a copper-free biocide such as Econea. Underwater metals such as outdrives and trim tabs also need this metal-free antifouling paint. And don’t forget the bottom of your inflatable, it needs protection, too. Inflatable bottom paint is ablative, so it wears away gradually, and is designed not to crack or peel while the boat is being rolled up, or after drying. What kind of water is your boat sitting in, and what’s the water temperature? In terms of temperature, biofouling levels are typically higher in warmer waters than cooler waters. Fresh water biofouling, while not as severe as saltwater (marine) biofouling, still poses problems which are compounded if the water is brackish or polluted. By far the biggest challenge comes from hard, marine biofouling organisms such as zebra mussels and barnacles, which destroy the hull surface and allow moisture in, causing blistering and other expensive damage. If moderate to heavy fouling is a problem in your region, you might consider a bottom paint that offers greater protection and lets you haul and relaunch without repainting, such as a multi-season paint. In lower fouling waters, you can get adequate single-season protection from a more economical bottom paint . The copper biocide (cuprous oxide or cuprous thiocyanate) or copper-free biocide (Econea) in these paints is designed primarily to combat hard shell marine growth. If slime is a problem in your area, use a slime-shedding bottom paint boosted with a slime-fighting agent (zinc pyrithione) that controls slime growth at the waterline. How and when do you use your boat? For example, do you trailer your boat? If so, you should use a harder ablative bottom paint that can withstand trailering. Do you race it or just like to go fast? Try a hybrid copolymer ablative that allows you to burnish the surface, and provides good single or multiple season protection. Do you go out every weekend? Every day? Do you want to be able to do your bottom painting at the end of the season so you’re ready to launch first thing in the spring? At TotalBoat, we’re DIY boaters that create products to suit every type of use in all types of waters. Do you live in an area that restricts the use of solvent and copper-based bottom paints? To address ever-increasing environmental regulations, some ablative bottom paints are now water-based and/or copper-free, containing an environmentally friendly biocide called Econea™, and fewer volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Other water-based ablatives contain copper for added antifouling protection, but offer easy soap and water cleanup. How much money do you want to spend on bottom painting? With bottom paint, usually the more biocide, or different types of biocide, the greater the cost. Also certain properties, like self-polishing, single or multi-season effectiveness, or slime-fighting ability, require the inclusion of certain additives, which can increase the cost. If you don’t need it, you shouldn’t have to pay for it, which is why we created a complete line of bottom paints to balance every boater’s needs and budget.

Figuring out the approximate surface area (in square feet) of your hull below the waterline is a good way to determine the amount of bottom paint you’ll need. Here’s an easy formula to use:

Length x Beam x .85

How heavily you apply the bottom paint is another factor in determining the quantity. The amounts below assume you want to coat the surface as thickly as possible without causing runs, and that you are applying two coats. For specific quantities, always refer to the manufacturer’s details on coverage areas.

Applying two coats of bottom paint up to the old waterline is a fairly straightforward task–if you know where the waterline is. Sometimes the line gets covered up by topside coatings, or it needs to be raised as the boat gets outfitted for cruising. Or you may have a new boat and need to find the waterline. Here’s a simple way to mark the waterline on your boat in preparation for bottom painting.

What You’ll Need for Bottom Painting

The safest and best way to do a DIY bottom paint job involves applying the paint with a brush or roller. Due to the substantial toxic hazards, spraying is not recommended.

If using a solvent-based antifouling paint, it’s important to use solvent-resistant roller covers, brushes, and paint trays and liners because the solvents in bottom paint are strong enough to dissolve regular household-type versions of these painting tools.

• Personal protection for sanding – paint suit with hood , goggles, and a respirator with appropriate cartridges, and gloves
• If bottom paint is cracking and peeling or otherwise requires removal (as in the case of hard bottom paint) use chemical stripper to remove it. Our TotalBoat TotalStrip paint remover is safe for gelcoat and fiberglass, and it’s easy to apply, odor-free, biodegradable, can strip up to 25 layers in a single application, requires no acid wash neutralization, and cleans up easily with just plain water. It’s also very effective on bottom paint.
• If previous bottom paint is in good condition and not too thick (only a couple of previous coats), you don’t need to sand it down, just scuff it up using a clean, maroon Scotch-Brite pad
• Paint scraper for removing loose or chipping antifouling paint to clean up the hull bottom before sanding
• When sanding down old bottom paint, use 80-grit large diameter sanding disks and a right angle grinder or dustless sander (recommended). 80-grit paper is the most common grit for sanding antifouling paint. Always use a dustless sander to keep the toxic antifouling paint sanding residue contained.
• Masking tape – solvent and water-resistant tape is ideal for lengthy bottom painting jobs that require two coats. This clean-release masking tape lifts off easily, leaving no gummy residue.
• Scratch-free cleaning and wiping rags and acetone or mineral spirits for removing surface dust and residue
• Solvent-resistant paint brush or 3/8" nap roller, paint tray and liner, plus small-width chip brushes for cutting in
• Drop cloths for any sanding debris, and for catching paint drips and spills

To ensure the best possible bond and the most effective antifouling results, take time to assess the type and amount of surface preparation needed. Typically, most ablative bottom paints can be applied over hard paints, but not the other way around. Also most other antifouling paints can’t be painted over vinyl or Teflon bottom paints. Incompatible paints must be removed first. Substrate matters, too, so for example, if you’re painting on steel or aluminum, check that you coat the surface with an appropriate metal primer first. Incompatible bottom paint or previous bottom paint that is extremely deteriorated should be stripped first. Use a chemical stripper that works with bottom paint to remove it. If you stripped the old antifouling and found hull damage or damage to the barrier coat, or if you’re painting a new boat for the first time, you’ll need to apply an epoxy barrier coat before applying bottom paint.

Cleaning Tips

In many cases, you’ll be painting over a previous bottom paint job that’s in good condition, so you don’t need to strip the paint or sand. Just chip away any loose paint with a paint scraper or putty knife, then abrade with a medium-grade 3M ScotchBrite pad, then wipe the surface with a clean, lint-free cheesecloth, rag, or tack cloth dampened with acetone or mineral spirits (or thinner recommended by the paint manufacturer) to remove residual dust and grease, let dry, then apply masking tape.

Sanding Tips

If you need to sand, sanding makes a mess, so first lay down some drop cloths under and around your work area. Sanding bottom paint also creates toxic dust, so use a dustless sander. And protect your exposed eyes, skin, and lungs with high-quality protective equipment before you begin sanding.

Masking Tips

For the cleanest line, try to position the tape as close to the bootstripe as you can, beginning at a natural start point in the line. Draw the tape out slowly, outlining every 1.5 to 2 feet. In addition, mask around underwater metals to protect them from contact with any copper-based antifouling paint.

Use 80-grit sandpaper to sand the entire bottom to smooth it out and remove any high or uneven spots. Sand lightly so you don’t sand through a protective barrier coat or damage gelcoat. After sanding, wipe down the surface using the solvent recommended by the bottom paint manufacturer.

After masking, and before painting, wipe the surface with a clean, lint-free cloth to remove any residual dust or dirt.

Getting great performance from your antifouling paint takes more than just completing the surface prep properly so the paint has every chance to bond mechanically and chemically to the hull. You also have to apply the paint when the timing is right in terms of temperature and humidity.

Resist the urge to start painting until temperatures are between 50°-85°F and the humidity is between 65 and 90%, or according to the manufacturer’s specifications. Be patient and wait for the weather to cooperate. You’ll be rewarded not just with optimal antifouling effectiveness, but with better looking, longer lasting results.

Before you start, pay attention to the dry time between coats and the recommended number of coats, as indicated by the manufacturer. Also, be sure to check if there are any maximum limits on the amount of time the boat can remain out of the water after bottom painting and prior to launch. For example, copolymer ablative paints dry faster, which means their overcoating times are shorter. They also have longer or unlimited launch windows.

Once you know the characteristics of your coating, and you’re ready to paint, here are some tips to expedite the process.

• To make it easier to get as much copper off the bottom of the can and into the paint, take it to a paint shop and have it shaken first. This will make it easier for you to stir the paint thoroughly.
• Do not thin bottom paint or it will lose its antifouling effectiveness.
• Use a solvent-resistant brush or 3/8" nap roller to apply paint thickly, without drips, onto the hull. Keep the thickness even, and paint from one end of the boat to the other.
• Because ablative paints wear away faster in areas of greatest turbulence, apply extra coats to these places such as the leading edge of the keel and the bow.
• Remember to paint underwater metals such as transducers, with a copper-free antifouling paint that will not cause galvanic corrosion.
• Recoat based on the manufacturer’s directions for overcoat times. Ensure that the weather conditions are optimal for recoating.
• After the final coat of bottom paint has dried, remove the masking tape slowly and carefully. After cleaning up, be sure to dispose of used solvent and paints properly.

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Favorite Bottom Paints by Region

Reader survey reflects localized preferences among brands, types..

Lately, readers have been asking us about which antifouling paints serve well for specific bodiesof water (or type of water). So, in this article-our annual spring bottom paint report-we will try to answer these questions with some recent reader survey data and sales reports from the two biggest brands in the U.S. (Pettit Paints and Interlux Yacht Finishes). But before we get into the regional breakdowns, a quick recap on choosing bottom paint and our paint testing program is in order. If youre a longtime subscriber, feel free to skip down to the Current Testing section.

Paint Types

We loosely classify bottom paints into two categories: hard paints and ablative paints. Hard paints hold up well to underwater cleaning and can usually be burnished smooth for racing. However, they leave behind paint layers that build up and eventually must be sanded off. Also, hard paints can lose their punch if they are stored ashore for too long and may require a light sanding before re-launch to re-activate the formula. Most ablative paints can be hauled and re-launched without worry.

Ablative paints, which wear away so they don’t build up paint layers over time, come in two main types: bottom-tier workboat ablatives that slough away to activate more biocide and more expensive copolymer ablatives that release biocides at a more controlled rate.

Although ablatives are sometimes called soft paints, some, like the new dual-resin ablatives, are relatively hard. These usually resist light underwater cleaning and are suitable for applying to trailered boats.

Hard and ablative paints are further divided into five broad sub-categories that often overlap: freshwater paints, aluminum paints, racing paints, water-based paints (easy for the do-it-yourselfer to apply), and eco-friendly paints. Paint types are indicated in the accompanying tables, and the best paints in each category earn Practical Sailors Recommended ratings.

Current Testing

In this issue, we have four tables presenting results from two different test-panel sets. The six-month tables present our first look at a test of 66 paints that were submerged at our test site in Sarasota, Fla., in June 2013. The table Antifouling Paints at 16 months wraps up data from a smaller test of paints, many of them copper-free, introduced in 2012; there is a short article along with the table, analyzing those results.

As for the newer panel set, most of the paints are still fighting hard growth fairly well, as would be expected after such a short time in the water. A couple of the newer copper-free blends are struggling, but most of the panels rinsed clean when they were sluiced with water prior to being rated. Each paint is rated either Poor (hard growth), Fair (heavy soft growth), Good (light slime), or Excellent (spotless); the ratings are relative to each panel set. For details on our test protocol and rating procedures, see the online version of this article.

The 2013 panel set features several new paints using Econea, a pesticide recently introduced to take the place cuprous oxide (copper), which is falling out of favor for environmental reasons. As states such as California clamp down on copper use in antifoulings, these paints offer a glimpse of what a copper-free future may look like for sailors. Econea is still in the experimental stage, in our view, as paint makers try to find a formula that is both effective and affordable. (Econea is more expensive than copper.)

So far, the copper-free results have been mixed. Although a couple of Econea paints are doing extremely well, our only failure after six months was a new water-based Econea paint from Pettit. Epaints have been the most reliable copper-free paints in our tests, but even they can’t keep up with the longevity of copper paints.

It is important to remember that unlike boats, our test panels do not move, and our test waters may be very different from the ones you sail. These test results are one of many data points to consider when narrowing down your choices of bottom paints.

Regional Preferences

As it turns out, the preferences in our reader survey closely match the general trends observed by major marine paint manufacturers Pettit and lnterlux. Budget-priced ablative paints had a more loyal following in the north, while sailors in Florida and Southern California, where sailing is year-round, gravitated toward copper-loaded modified epoxies like Trinidad and Ultra.

Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

In the Northeast, where seasons are short and many sailors apply a new coat of bottom paint every year, the budget-priced paints, particularly ablatives (because they don’t build up year after year) like Interluxs ACT, had a larger following than in other regions. A high percentage of sailors in this area also used high-strength ablatives such as Interlux Micron Extra. We presume these boats are being relaunched the following season without being repainted.

Favorites from Interlux included: Micron 66, Micron Extra, Fiberglass Bottomkote NT, and ACT. Pettit paints popular in this region included the ablatives SSA, Vivid, and Hydrocoat, and the budget-priced hard paint Unepoxy.

In the warmer waters of the Southeast, the more potent modified epoxy (hard) paints were predominant. The single most popular paint in this region was Pettits Trinidad, although Interluxs Micron paints (Micron 66, Micron CSC, and Micron Extra) combined for a higher number of followers. Pettits Ultima SR 60, a high-strength ablative, and Hydrocoat SR, a water-based paint that attracts do-it-yourselfers with its easy cleanup and no odor, were also top contenders. Other popular Interlux paints included value-priced Bottomkote NT. Sea Hawks Cukote also turned up good numbers on the survey.

Great Lakes

Great Lakes boaters almost universally agreed that Interluxs VC17 was the paint of choice. This freshwater paint goes on about six times thinner than most antifouling paints, it dries quickly, and requires almost no prep work year to year. It has always done poorly in our saltwater tests, although some New England racers who keep their hulls scrubbed each week use it because the finish is so slick and smooth.

Other top sellers for Interlux in this region are Bottomkote NT, ACT and Micron CSC. Pettits thin-film, freshwater paint SR21, and mainstays Hydrocoat and Vivid have a strong following in this region as well.

Both Washington and California are moving to eliminate or reduce the use of copper-based antifouling paints among recreational boaters in their waters, but boaters are resisting the change. In the northern waters from San Francisco to the Canadian border, where soft growth such as algae and tunicates are the chief problem, the ablative paints had a larger contingent of followers. Micron 66 and Micron Extra remained popular choices among PS readers. Pettits Ultima SR also notched good numbers in the Washington area. Other Interlux paints that did well in the northwest were the aluminum-friendly paint Trilux 33 and Micron CSC.

In Southern California, where bottom scrubbing is part of the gameplan and anti-copper sentiment is taking hold, harder paints and copper-free paints saw more service. Pettits Trinidad was a favorite among PS readers. Copper-loaded Ultra, water-based Bottomkote Aqua, and copper-free Trilux 33 lead Interluxs roster here. Perrenial favorites Hydrocoat and Eco Vivid round out top picks from Pettit.

Looking at these reports, along with the overall top picks and our top 20 long-term paints, a few names stand at the top in almost every region: Pettits Trinidad, Hydrocoat, and Vivid, and the Interlux Micron series. West Marine paints (PCA Gold and CPP), Blue Water 67 SCX, Sea Hawk Cukote, and Epaint 2000 also made the list, but these were sprinkled throughout the country. These are excellent paints for multi-season use in heavy-fouling waters, but they are overkill for a boater who hauls out and paints every year, in our opinion. For single-season sailors, a budget-priced ablative will serve just fine.

Remember that performance can vary from harbor to harbor, so the information in this report should be regarded as additional data to support your own research with your local yard owners and other sailors in your area.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

So is aluminum as bad for the water as copper . Which paints have aluminum ?

My 2 cents. I have never scrubbed bottom paint, but scrape it with a 8-10 inch drywall knife. In my experience cruising MX and South the paint lasts exponentially longer and it’s much faster and easier to remove hard growth and clean the prop.

Fantastic article Darrell! I will definitely be using this info to inform our customers on this topic. Here in North Carolina, we get some pretty rapid growth, and more often than not, we recommend either Pettit or Interlux as our preferred brand. However, we are getting quite a few people asking about the Sea Hawk Cukote.

Do you know much about the new Pettit Odyssey Triton paint? I have recently heard about it, and it sounds promising.

Thanks again for the detailed info!

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The Best Boat Bottom Paints for Different Types of Boats

Written by J. Harvey / Fact checked by S. Numbers

From barnacles, corrosion, and slime to algae and moss, any one of these foul undesirables can be a thing of nightmares for boat owners. What’s worse is that even if you have the best boat bottom paint, you can only ever really slow their progress down. There’s a good reason why many sailors say that almost any boat, once it goes on its voyage, will inevitably “belong to the barnacles”.

Still, that doesn’t mean that you can’t keep your vessel as free from their clutches as possible. I can say as much for the marine bottom paints I’ve used on my three boats. There are definitely great options out there that are a cut above the rest.

I suggest you remember these three important factors when looking for the most ideal antifouling bottom paint to use:

• Protective Capability: Many sailboat bottom paint products are antifouling, but they’re not readily synonymous with each other. Antifouling paint, as a whole, should be able to take care of marine growth and corrosion, but there are products out there that may fall short on one or two.
• Some incorporate aluminum-friendly copper free biocide, which may be able to kill all kinds of marine growth. Others rely on high copper concentrations to provide longer-lasting protection. Ablative paints, on the other hand, tend to last for a shorter time since they’re designed to peel off by themselves, aided by the boat’s movement, and take the buildup with them (i.e. self-cleaning).
• Typical Water Conditions: In order to make the most of any bottom paint, you need to be aware of the water conditions that you subject your boat to. There may be bottom paint out there with all-around solutions like copper or copper free biocide, but that’s not always the case. Saltwater brings corrosion, on the other hand.
• Know the marine growth that you’ll normally have to put up with (whether it’s barnacles, slime, seaweed, algae, worms, etc.), then ask the manufacturer if their product can address it. For example, bottom paint for South Florida should protect against seaweed and algae fouling in that area.
• Compatibility with Bottom/Hull Material: A lot of antifouling paints accommodate wood, metal, and fiberglass, but you still have to make sure that they’ll adhere to your boat’s hull. Some hard bottom paints may only work well with aluminum boats since they’re not actually antifouling, for example. Moreover, a few paints may react badly to the kind of material they’re painted on, leading to unwarranted damage.

The following bottom paint products are the ones I’ve used in my years of cruising and fishing in both saltwater and freshwater oceans and lakes. A few work well on their own while others need to be paired with a barrier coat. Usually, I apply five coats as a barrier/primer then apply two coats of bottom paint, but it’s not an absolute rule. Read on to know my takes on each one.

• Good-as-new finish
• Multiple color options
• Superb coverage per gallon

• A breeze to apply
• Economical choice
• Works best on fiberglass hulls

• Very easy to apply
• Superb value for money
• Lasts long and flattens well

Table of Contents

1. Duralux M749-1 Marine Paint

2. rust-oleum 207012 marine flat boat bottom paint, 3. totalboat 285793 jd select ablative bottom paint, 4. sea hawk ah7033gl aluma hawk paint, 5. totalboat underdog marine bottom paint, 6. pettit paint 1959q hard racing paint, 7. totalboat inflatable boat bottom paint, other factors to consider when choosing the right bottom paint, what should i paint the bottom of my boat with, how long does bottom paint last on a boat, how many coats of bottom paint do i need, what’s the typical prep work required for bottom paint, do bottom paints affect the boat’s speed, best paint for boat bottom reviews.

Though not antifouling, Duralux’s marine paint functions just as excellently as a bottom paint because of its longevity and stellar corrosion protection. It’s also got great coverage!

I use this as a bottom paint on aluminum, steel-hulled or fiberglass boats. I recommend aluminum boats, in particular, because of the excellent corrosion protection and coverage per gallon. I didn’t get that common aluminum problem at all after three years from the initial application.

Before our fishing get-together with my friends back in 2015, we were able to paint three boats with a single one-gallon can, and the paint dried in two days max. For the protection these vessels got, we definitely got all our money’s worth. Do take note that we fish mostly in freshwater lakes.

Overall, it’s a solid multi-purpose and multi season paint that you can apply on just about anything made of metal, as you know, it will be a rust or corrosion problem over time. I especially like that the brand has plenty of color options to choose from, so if you happen to be digging aquamarine over cruiser blue, then you just grab a can and start painting! The finish looks good as new every time.

You’ll need a bit of prep work to apply it properly. I always do light sanding first, then wipe the surface with lacquer thinner. Doing these two steps makes the paint easy to roll and will not require a primer for it to provide protection. I apply three to four coats to get the long-lasting, attractive finish I want in my jon boat.

• Great value for money
• Doesn’t require a primer
• Too thick consistency

Any antifouling bottom paint by Rust-Oleum is a safe bet for most boat owners. This one I like in particular because of its sheer value for money. It’s cheap, but you know it will get the job done.

As much as possible, I choose this over anything else, assuming it’s available. It’s far cheaper than a lot of reliable bottom-side boat paint products out there. And it’s mostly because I get the most value for money out of it.

It goes on thick and stays for good as long as you apply it, once following the recommendations. I advise you to stir it well with mineral oil, so you can thin it just enough for smoother application. It makes it easy to roll even with the cheapest roller you can find out there. Two coats, a day apart, will do for most finishing jobs.

I’ve tried it on both wood and fiberglass surfaces. I can safely say that it works best for the latter because my 16’ runabout has kept most barnacles, corrosion, and most marine growths at bay since I applied it.

My initial painting job lasted for a good four years before I had to do a full repaint, and I also have to say that it’s the case for a boat that I use fairly regularly. I also power wash it every season, though, and roll the surface annually.

• Sticks well with proven durability
• Outstanding value for money
• Cans tend to arrive dented

This is one of the few antifouling paints I’ve been using for a long time now. It never disappoints with its versatility, ease of application, and excellent coverage, which translate to superb value for money.

It’s one of the better ablative paints I’ve tried, mostly when it comes to how long the biocide provides protection. In one sailboat (a 36-footer), I had it last for a good two years (in both wet and dry storage) before I needed to do a reapplication. I used two thin film coats as per recommendations, and the boat had minimal to zero build ups for that entire time, thanks to the biocide and the way sheds taking most of the gunk with it.

It’s hard not to become a go-to paint for your boat because it’s so easy to apply. I prefer to skip plenty of the usual prep work when painting. This boat bottom paint for speed-based applications delivers just that by forgoing the need to thin it. Also, no sanding is always welcome, but I do it every time I need to apply a new layer, often yearly, only if I just used one coat on any bottom, whether it’s fiberglass, metal, or wood.

That’s where most of the versatility stems from. I’ve used a handful of antifouling paint, and there are only ever a few that I can safely say meet that criterion, considering the finish I get from each one. This is one of them, and that’s why I think it’s great value for money.

It flattens well in all the times I’ve used it to paint the bottom of my boats and my buddies’, all with different bottom materials, over the years. The finish is almost always superior to other choices as a result.

• Proven to prevent marine growth
• Versatile choice
• Takes quite a while to dry compared to other paints

In most cases, it’s either this or the Duralux marine paint I reviewed before when it comes to painting my jon boats. It’s got topnotch durability, adheres well to aluminum boats, and lends any vessel with a fresh look if applied properly.

I like this paint’s overall longevity. I’ve been using it longer than the other marine paint I mentioned because I was fairly satisfied with its corrosion protection and how long it managed to provide it (in my case, it’s two and half years on one jon boat).

I use a foam roller every time to get a smooth finish. Don’t bother with a gun since I’ve only had subpar results with it. Be sure to grab a number of rollers, though, as the paint will eat it up.

I listened to the recommendations that I use MEK to thin it. Sure enough, 10% of it is enough to reduce the sheer thickness of the entire thing. I use the roller mostly and a brush for the edges and borders – also, don’t forget to wear a respirator and any applicable protective equipment.

The paint dries quickly, and it’s not hard to see this remarkable difference if you apply it in the summer. It takes less than a day during those months, and the paint goes on thick and smooth on aluminum, so as much as possible, I suggest you wait for the temperatures to be as warm as possible if you’re in the US.

• Multi season protection
• Takes care of corrosion
• Easy to apply
• Sticks well to aluminum
• Needs MEK to thin properly, which is not always available
• Has a strong smell and needs to be stirred often

A better choice for those who want optimal protection on hulls, TotalBoat’s bottom paint also costs ½ the price of other alleged “top brands” out there. It’s also a proven bottom paint for boats saltwater.

A lot of people consider this brand a safe choice, and I have to agree with them. I’d even say it’s a smart one, especially if you’re well aware of the average cost of bottom paints nowadays. This paint manages to knock a hundred bucks from the average price in the market but still keeps barnacle growth in check.

I must say that this bottom paint is an excellent example of antifouling technology. You may see boat paint build up here and there as time goes by, but I’ve since learned that you’ve just got to be patient with it. It will chip off by itself, taking the barnacles with it – at least, that’s my experience with my 25-foot center console that I like to take to saltwater fishing spots.

It’s got stellar coverage overall, but not exactly something worth mentioning. A single coat feels adequate for fiberglass and metal. Haven’t tried it on wood yet. I can paint an entire 25-footer with a gallon can, with plenty to spare to add to another painting job. What’s even better is that I never have to make it thinner.

I was even pleasantly surprised one time when the brand included a package that came with a roller frame, stir sticks, paint cover, and roller cover. I’m not sure if I just missed a promo, but I definitely appreciate brands that make these kinds of efforts.

Once the paint has thinned out, I just reapply and do a sandblast first if there are stubborn buildups, which is rarely the case based on my two-year experience with it. It’s by no means a perfect product, but for all its perks combined and the budget-friendly cost, it more than deserves a spot on this list.

• Does a spectacular job of preventing barnacle growth
• Comes with tools required for painting sometimes
• Doesn’t require thinning
• Decent coverage

This hidden gem deserves a spot here for its long-lasting, rich finish, ease of application, and overall protective capability. Most Pettit bottom paint reviews say the same for a reason.

I prefer to use bottom paints like this on my Jeanneau cabin cruiser, which I like to take for my longest cruises. Mostly, it’s because of the sheer longevity of this paint. The longest I’ve made it with a single hard coating is two and a half years on solely freshwater with a combination of dry and wet storage.

It’s quite versatile, too, in that I get the same results on my aluminum jon boats and vessels with fiberglass hulls. Also, it’s not a pain to apply. I use a short-haired roller, and the paint just goes on smoothly with the proper thinning. I stick to the recommended brushing thinner every time.

The corrosion protection is good, but I do have to make sure to apply a barrier coat (and hard modified epoxy if the conditions call for it) with every fresh painting or repainting job. I’ve been using this paint for the better part of a decade, so I can safely say that it’s far from being lackluster in that regard. Overall, it’s tough to criticize a solid hard paint, especially if it’s designed as a bottom paint for trailer boats, which anticipates marine conditions.

• Long-lasting multi season protection
• Works well in freshwater lakes and rivers
• Versatile in terms of hull material
• Smooth application
• Decent corrosion protection
• Limited in terms of suitable water conditions

I’d recommend this ablative bottom paint for boats to anyone looking for a product that best demonstrates the strengths of this kind of bottom paint. That it also manages to stay on for a long time and provide superb protection only convinces me to give it close to a perfect rating.

Now, you’re probably thinking, aren’t ablative paints supposed to be washed off along with the gunk after every season? Well, what’s good about this boat bottom paint is that it kind of gives you the option to decide. There’s no better way to describe it than just being what a hard ablative paint is all about.

For one, TotalBoat chose a high copper concentration of 25%, so they’re definitely aiming for protection. The first season I applied this paint, I didn’t have to do a repaint at all, and there was no cracking and flaking. All I had to do was clean it with a high-pressure washer, and the paint actually stayed on!

After the next season, though, I began to notice more growth, which I thought was just normal since I’ve been taking my fiberglass boats to multiple fishing locales, some being saltwater. The buildup didn’t progress that much, though, since I noticed that the paint was also beginning to wear off on the keel area. I reckon that was the ablation doing its job.

Overall, it took more than a year for me to have to do a repaint, which is a plus in my book. I’m not sure whether the change in water conditions (I’m inclined to believe so) affected its longevity. Take note that I applied two coats on a fiberglass boat hull, with sanding, and with no primer – and it dried fast for a water based boat paint.

• Two-way protection
• Proven to last long
• Dries fairly quickly despite being water-based
• Proven to work without a primer
• Comes in only one color

Ease of Application

Does the paint require thinning? Is it easy to roll or spray on? Do you have to wait a long time for it to dry? It’s important to answer these questions so you won’t end up wasting your effort and money on most kinds of bottom paints.

Paint Color

Don’t forget about the possibility of the color being eclipsed by the resultant marine organisms’ growth. White bottom paint is more likely to be overshadowed, but an obvious advantage is that it won’t be hard to spot potential buildups even if they’re just starting.

Don’t overlook paints that are abrasion-resistant. I can name a handful from the products I reviewed above that don’t quickly crack and get scratched after a few seasons. Usually, a primer or barrier coats aid in keeping the paint in place, but only to a certain degree.

Naturally, you want to be able to properly paint the bottom of your vessel without taking two gallons or more just to get the results you want. Of course, this should always be relative to the quality of the paint.

The Different Types of Boat Bottom Paint

In general, you can find bottom paint that is either categorized as antifouling or not. Antifouling paint, in turn, can be subcategorized as either hard paint or ablative paint. Here’s an overview of each one.

• Standard Marine Paint

Some marine paints work just as well as bottom paints, especially if they offer optimal corrosion and rust protection. They may not be able to keep marine organisms’ infestation at bay, but if you know that the water conditions you regularly subject your vessel to don’t really need protection from them, then hard paints will do.

I especially recommend them for smaller vessels like jon boats. They’re aluminum-safe and can last for a long time. Another bonus is that they have numerous colorful and attractive finishes.

• Hard Antifouling

These are recommended for boats that cruise and sail for lengthy distances. Normally, they protect the hull with copper biocide, while staying on as long as possible, to the point that you don’t have to worry about buildups for 1 to 3 years.

One other advantage is that even if you pressure wash your hull, the paint will still stay on and still provide protection, especially if the copper content is noticeably high. This quality makes them a more cost-saving option.

• Ablative Antifouling

Any self-cleaning types of antifouling paints fall under this category. Ablation literally means removal, so that’s how they technically impart protection. Plenty of ablative paints will only last for a single season and need to be pressure washed to completely remove buildups. Afterward, you’ll obviously need to do a full repaint.

That being said, there are ablative paints with more longevity and with biocide included in their formulations. I tend to think of them as ‘hybrid’ paints that provide double protective capabilities. They’re not that many, though.

• Thin Antifouling

Named as such because they go on thin, thin antifouling paint is typically recommended mostly for freshwater storage and, sometimes, even some saltwater conditions with minimal fouling. This kind of paint is mostly designed for owners who want a speedy solution to marine organisms that plague your hull since it spares you from hours of sanding and can be applied, removed, and reapplied relatively quickly.

Benefits and Drawback of Bottom Paint

Almost any boat owner wants to keep his or her vessel in tip-top shape. The hull and bottom, as it happens, are typically the first ones to suffer the invasive nature of marine life. The fact that antifouling bottom paint can bring about a positive, protective effect when it comes to that issue readily highlights the strongest advantage of applying bottom paint.

The same can be said for paint that provides corrosion, rust, and abrasion protection. We also can’t deny that they lend the boat an aesthetic appeal.

That being said, they’re not without disadvantages. Besides the white boat bottom paint issue I mentioned above, some boat bottom paint colors may fade off over time or adversely react to weather, artificial, or marine conditions and make your vessel look unsightly. Also, some bottom paint products are undeniably expensive, which explains why bottom painting and cleaning services are equally costly.

Look no further than the water conditions (what marine growth is common and whether it’s saltwater or freshwater) and the material of the hull and bottom that requires painting. If you’re working on aluminum hulls, and you know you won’t really have to put up with a lot of marine growth, then a good anti-corrosion paint will do.

Likewise, bottom paint for wooden boats will readily benefit from ablative antifouling paint. It has to be primed first every time, though, and this video explains why and how to do it:

On the whole, I recommend most of the antifouling paints, hard or ablative, I’ve featured here because of their versatile applications.

This largely depends on the type you use. As I said before, ablative paints will sometimes last only a single season or a month, but others can manage 6 months up to 1 year. The longest-lasting bottom paint, which can last up to 3 years, is almost always hard, regardless of whether it’s antifouling or not. Almost any boat bottom paint comparison in other guides and forums will say the same.

I apply two coats on average, but if I find the paint to be sufficiently thick in one coat, with the barrier coat factored in, then I settle for that. Take note that some paints may require three or even four coats to ensure optimal durability. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations when figuring out how much bottom paint to use.

Unless the manufacturer explicitly states otherwise, I make it a point to clean the surface that I will be applying the paint on. Make sure it’s free of possible contaminants. Afterward, I sand it with 100-grit sandpaper, especially if the brand suggests it.

This is still being debated, but based on my experience and plenty of other sailors, bottom paint’s ability to reduce the boat’s speed is minimal, to the point of being negligible.

Since bottom paint has numerous variables to be considered, the best boat bottom paint is ultimately the one that specifically delivers everything you need. It should provide a direct solution for both your vessel and the water that it will be sailing on. Obviously, it doesn’t hurt for it to be budget-friendly and easy to use while doing so.

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How to Prep and Bottom Paint Your Boat

A step-by-step process for sanding, prepping and bottom painting your boat [video].

Bottom paint (also known as antifouling paint) helps protect your boat from barnacles, weeds and other aquatic organisms from attaching to the underwater portion of your boat’s hull. If you leave your boat in the water all season, you need bottom paint.

One of the final spring preparation jobs before launching your boat for the boating season is typically painting the bottom.

As I prepared my sailboat Bay Poet for launch this spring, I started with a winter hull inspection in the yard. That is when I determined what projects need to be completed before launch. This year, I took the opportunity to  install a new shower sump and then I  replaced the sacrificial zincs on the prop shaft (an annual task for me).

Then it was time for final preparations before launch. This includes washing and waxing the hull, followed by preparing the bottom for painting and then, of course, painting.

Here is the step-by-step process that I took this year to prep and paint the bottom of my boat.

Preparing to Paint the Bottom

Determine the Scope of the Work

During that walk-around inspection to which I referred, you may have identified some dings and defects in your fiberglass. If you did find any, you will need to have those repaired or do that yourself.

Those sorts of repairs are beyond the scope of this article. If any deep repairs are necessary…and that would be any damage that might compromise the integrity of the fiberglass, they will need to be addressed and absolutely so if the core is exposed.

It is important to get any such repairs made BEFORE you proceed to sand the bottom in preparation to paint. This way any fiberglass repairs or patches can be faired before your paint. The repair may also need a barrier paint applied before you apply the bottom paint.

Understand that the purpose for sanding is not to remove all of the existing bottom paint, if any. It is to create a surface which will allow better bonding with the new layer of paint. In other words, you want the surface to be painted to have some “tooth”.

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Preparing to sand.

A note of caution here: Bottom paints are generally toxic. That is the purpose for them – to inhibit the attachment and growth of organisms, both plant and animal. It will do this by sloughing off microscopic layers while underway. However, the paint itself will often contain a biocide. That biocide is generally non-specific and somewhat toxic for humans as well.

Before attempting to sand your boat’s bottom, check with your marina for their guidelines. You will likely be required to use a ground cover to catch any falling paint particles and dust. You may also have to connect your electrical sander to a dust collection system, generally a shop vac with a HEPA filter installed. Under no conditions should you allow any of the sanding dust to wind up in the water.

Allow for a full day or more. The more helpers you have, the faster it will go. But don’t rush because that will lead to a poor surface preparation or injury. Do not assume that you will be able to sand and paint all in one day.

Before sanding, you may need to use a stiff brush or scrubbing pad to wash away any remaining dirt or organic material. Be very careful with barnacles as they can be very sharp and cause injury. Sometimes you can pop them off with a paint scraper. Other times, you might have to sand them off.

As with woodworking, you want to start the sander before putting it on the hull and then keep it moving so it does not remove too much material in one spot. If you paint your prop shaft and propeller, don’t forget to sand them as well but you are likely to have to do those by hand.

Sanding is generally tedious and some of the positions in which you find yourself will be uncomfortable. I guarantee that you will “feel your work” the next day or two after you are done!

When you are all done with that, dispose of any collected dust and debris in an approved manner. This is a matter of local environmental regulations and just plain common sense. You may also want to throw away your coveralls as they will be very dusty.

Bottom Painting

Tools and Protective Clothing

For the best quality job, you will want to purchase good quality brushes and rollers. At the same time, it will probably not be worth the effort to clean your rollers and brushes at the end of the job. I choose to just throw those away along with the pour spout, rags, and disposable gloves. I do keep the roller handles, extension rods, and plastic painting tarps.

I also wear Tyvek coveralls but not the same ones I might have used during sanding. I will reuse my painting my coveralls until they become too damaged for use. I also wear safety glasses. If you have to get paint off your prescription glasses, it can damage the lenses and coatings. So for the tools that you can reuse, it is worth buying good quality. For items that will be used only once, buy good quality but not top of the line.

Painting Day

I have seen marina staff paint a boat and immediately launch it. I am not sure about that but while you might be able to paint in damp weather, you probably won’t want to do so for your personal comfort, if nothing else.

Next I spread a plastic drop cloth and keep moving it to keep it underneath the area on which I am working.

(NOTE: some marinas will put down a ground cover for you when your boat is hauled out. Of course, there is a cost but that is a decision you may be able to make.)

My preference is to start from the rear since all of the more complicated structures like the rudder and the through-hull box from which the prop shaft exits are in the back.

Work from the wet edges. For all the crevices and corners that your roller can’t quite reach, go back afterward with a smaller roller or a 2 to 3-inch brush. I do not worry about the complete underside of the bulb keel but I will do the underside of wings and under the front of the bulb.

Do NOT attempt to move jack stands on your own when you paint. Coordinate with your marina to have their staff move the stands or alternatively, the marina may paint the areas under the jack stand pads when they launch the boat.

Cleaning Up

I have used my left over paint 2 years later with no problems. It had not even skinned over. This may be a little bit of a challenge next time because the type of paint I have used the last 6 years has been discontinued. I will need to find a compatible replacement both in terms of bonding to the current paint and mixing with the half gallon of my left overs.

All the rollers, brushes, disposable gloves, and even the pour spout should go into a heavy duty plastic bag that gets tied closed securely and then put into the appropriate waste container. Check with your marina for information on proper disposal.

Check out Spring Prep Gear  for bottom paint options

Watch this recap video highlighting how I painted the bottom of my sailboat, Bay Poet .

Painting prep and painting can be physically tedious but your bottom needs fresh paint for best performance. If you do the job right, your bottom paint could last more than one season, especially on sailboats. The ablation that occurs is likely to be more pronounced on power boats owing to the higher speeds at which they travel through the water. In any case, inspect, prep, and repaint as necessary.

Likewise, check your sacrificial zincs yearly. You will probably have to replace them at least once a year.

A little bit of maintenance will allow you to enjoy your boat for a long time!

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I like your advice to do a walk-around inspection to identify any dins or defects in the boat’s fiberglass to get them repaired. When adding a top or bottom coating to your boat, it would probably help to hire a professional. A professional could ensure that it’s inspected and prepped properly so that it’s ready for the coating, which can then be applied correctly so you have the best results.

I have found the cost of have the marina prep and paint my 41-foot sloop to be somewhat cost prohibitive. The quoted cost is about $6000. I feel very comfortable prepping my bottom myself. I did my research and spoke with the marina service manager before starting. I have had to patch my rudder a couple of times but the bottom paint holds up at least 2 years.

It might not be a bad idea to inspect the boat with a professional in case one misses an important detail. However, from both a cost consideration and to become more familiar with my boat, I always prefer to do as much of the work myself as possible.

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