model yacht sail eyelets

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Home >> Build your Model >> Small Hardware >> Eyelets

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Brass Eyelets

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• Masting, rigging and sails

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Sail cringle holes with eyelet

By modeller_masa January 31, 2021 in Masting, rigging and sails

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Modeller_masa.

I have question I thought about cringle holes of sail.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sail_components

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hals_(Großsegel).jpg  

I would like to use a rivet or eyelet to protect sail when it is under tension stress. These are rivets or eyelets I'm looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/Ochoos-1000Pcs-Tubular-Double-sided-Circuit/dp/B07MXPSYFR

A common eyelets is down to 0.90mm inner diameter and 2.50mm outer diameter, but...

The smallest eyelet I can purchase is 0.40mm inner diameter and 0.60mm outer diameter. 

I would say that this is not bad for small scale ships such as 1/24 modern boat. Will it work with 1/50 or higher scale ships? I'm in doubt. A hot needle may be enough to protect if I choose suitable sail fabric...

• EricWilliamMarshall

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How about these "cringles"...

• modeller_masa , mtaylor and EricWilliamMarshall

https://www.naftotopos.gr/index.php/el/

There are no bad or good model makers. There are only less or  more  experienced.

Tsernikoperama  -   Trechandiri Brachera   -  Bombarda Sabatiera   - Tserniki vessel rigged as Penna  -   NE Aegean Sea Tserniki  - Tserniki of Mykonos Island  - Tserniki of Mytilene Island  - Trechandiri-schooner rigging

12 minutes ago, Thanasis said: How about these "cringles".

I'll research about it soon! Thanks, Thanasis.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/273600722266

I got the data chart from ebay seller. The 0.4 x 0.6 PCB rivet has 0.9mm head diameter. If a ship model's scale is 1:64, it is 57.6mm or 2 1/4 inch cringle which is fairly feasible size. If there is 0.2 x 0.3 rivet, it may be the best size for any case. In addition, I may be able to tin the copper rivet to black color for realistic expression.

The price of tiny rivets is pretty high. (1000 pcs with punching tool is 150 Euros.) I'll keep it on my bucket list.

I don't think fabric, with the exception of silk-screen fabric and silk-span (in European understanding), is suitable for models below say 1/50 scale. In any case, on smaller-scale models eyelets can be simulated by piercing a small hole with a needle, applying a drop of white glue on both sides and then opening up the hole again. For metal cringles the PVA can be tinted grey and then you turn a sharp pencil in the hole to give the cringle a metallic sheen. For the sewn one, you tint the PVA beige or beige-grey to match the ropework you are using.

You can also make small hollow rivets yourself from thin-walled brass tube. However, you need a punch and a die, that you would have to turn up on a lathe yourself to suit the brass tube.

• EricWilliamMarshall , mtaylor , Thanasis and 1 other

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

Thanks for great tips, wefalck! I'll use 1mm rivets I ordered for other decoration parts.

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Welcome to the 2024 nylet website: everything for the model yachtsman. world-wide mail order service since 1958., welcome to the 2024 nylet website. nylet 92 years . the oldest established international master sailmakers, since 1932. everything for the model yachtsman. creating the very finest sails. tradition - craftsmanship - innovation. established 1932. 92 years since our firm's founding ethos "fine products, quality first". nylet racing sails are used the world over. makers of model sails to the national maritime museum cornwall. sails made by special commission for collectors & museums. every sail suit carefully made to your special order either in synthetic sailcloth, or for the vintage or classic yacht we make fine sails in cotton. large range of yacht fittings, wires, screws, tools etc. our fast world-wide mail order service (since 1958) is open for business. scroll down for more, or go to top toolbar to click on other pages. thank you for visiting our website, we hope you will find our product listings useful. iom sail rig kits, plus other class rig kits. replacement kit sails such as fairwind, seawind, victoria, etc. sails made for 200 different designs (see the "150 sails" list) and which include the classic - vic smeed's starlet and star baby, also wild duck (plan sold by sarik hobbies) and the recent eventide. prompt despatch from stock of large range of mast & deck fittings, aluminium tubing (incl stiffer 7075), wires & cordage, screws, tools, booklets & other quality products for model yachts, see price list (over 500 items). nylet racing sails with our "wind catching" shape - all sails cut specially to order and designed to enable your yacht to respond to varying *wind conditions, sails you can be proud of to compliment your model racing or cruising yacht. the very finest cotton sails manufactured for sailing yachts and display models. sails with wind catching shape and that extra sparkle. cross-reference listings of fittings in section e of our price list with the online "fittings & photos" page. full size sailmakers and contractors to the admiralty 1932-1966. 1772. silk mercers established in high holborn, london - 8 generations - 252 years of working with fine cloths. model & miniature makers spanning 4 centuries and 12 generations, with an example of our early 18th century work held in the british museum, london. slide & click on any of the 7 links below, or click any link on top bar. this is just one of 35 pages on our website., product & price list.

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View more photos of nylet sails, download our order form here., welcome - accueil, bienvenido, velkommen, welkom, tervetuloa, willkommen, benvenuto, velkommen, bem-vindo., nylet ~ master sailmakers ~ "quality first". 2 generations, 108 years of experience. 92 years of model sailmaking (including 35 years full size sailmaking). at nylet we don't just 'make' sails, we create sails, we breathe life into the sailcloth in order that they might be shaped by the wind. using technological advances in materials coupled with innovation, expertise and tradition over 92 years to bring you the very finest model sails. all sails are made specially to your order; please phone us and/or email sail plan, drawing for a quotation. see price list for 'standard' racing sails, iom sails and replacement kit sails (plus three sail pages with full info)., everything for the model racing yachtsman since 1932. world-wide mail order service since 1958. prompt despatch on fittings and stock items. quality mast & deck fittings, sails of all types, screws & nuts etc. accessories, aluminium tubing, iom rig bags and more. fast world-wide mail order service. please click on our price list before enquiring (500 items). over 200 sail designs available. makers of model sails to the national maritime museum cornwall., a warm welcome to our customers and new visitors to our website. if you have logged on recently then please refresh your browser to enable updated pages to be displayed correctly. this website contains approx 35 pages including help/info/tips files. clickable links also on top bar. we are working to bring you nylet products via our long established prompt world-wide mail order service. full details on our dedicated mail order page. we wish all our customers good health and happy sailing., about us; also making your order..

We hope you will find our services and products useful in your model yachting hobby. Our mail order service commenced in 1958 and we have been despatching our products world-wide since then.

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Nylet are the longest established professional model sailmakers in the world, manufacturing full size sails from 1932 to 1965, and also model yacht sails in cotton from the early 1930's onward. 108 years of experience - 2 generations. We have been exporting our products world-wide since 1958 and offer a comprehensive model sailmaking service including yacht sails made in white Dacron, also racing scrim, and IOM sail rig kits, plus replacement kit sails, also Dacron Heritage sewn sails in 1950's/60's style. For some 35 plus years we have again manufactured finely finished Premium 'vintage' style cotton sails. We offer a large range of rig & deck fittings, wires & cordage, a huge selection of screws, nuts etc, sail numerals, accessories and hardware for modern racing yachts. Also sail winches, and much, much more. For products and prices click on (top bar) "all pages" and select from the drop down list. Please also see customers comments on the various pages. News - Range of sail winches for most yachts, see dedicated winch page; for prices refer to our products & price list in section M (prices start at around £100). Just a note about our sails. As it says on the "sail" pages Nylet sails are finished and are complete with batten stiffeners (where necessary) and all eyelets etc etc. A few customers ask if they are complete - seems some Chinese "kit" sails are not fully finished (I use the word "sails" loosely here!). We are Master Sailmakers and have been for 92 years , so you are purchasing the best. Please read our 3 sail pages for fuller details.

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Today - Racing sails in scrim and film, Dacron sails & Heritage sewn Dacron sails. Nylet Finest 'Premium' cotton sails, fittings etc. 2016 - Frank Parsons marked his 50th year of model sailmaking. 1966 - Coloured Terylene racing sails. 1932 - Commencement of full size and model sailmaking. 1834 - Founding of the family firm, J.Parsons (canvas goods manufacturers). 1772 - My 4th gt grandfather, Michael, a Silk Mercer in High Holborn, London, working with fine cloths. 1738 - My 5th gt grandfather, Michael Compigné, Goldsmith, London, a specialist miniature maker for private customers, items made in gold & silver. 1620 - My 8th, 7th & 6th gt grandfathers, Clockmakers in Normany, London, and Winchester. From 1620 to 2022, over 400 years of the finest craftsmanship. 400 Plus Years of Tradition

Sails made by Special Commission for Collectors & Museums. Nylet IOM racing sails finely manufactured in racing scrim, white Dacron and satin film. Also replacement kit sails; Classic Varnished Terylene sails, also "Heritage" 1960's style sewn white Dacron sails made exclusively by Nylet. Also Premium 'Vintage' style cotton sails. Any size sails, of any type, made to your drawings or templates. Just a note, sail suits are often wrongly referred to as "sets". In nautical parlance sails are a "suit" whether that be 2, 3 or 4 sails (or more) for a yacht or a working boat, or a ship of the line such as HMS Victory where a dozen or more sails may be involved. All our sails are priced as a suit.

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SOME Testimonials

Thank you for the BB3 booklet - a mine of information.

Thank you for such excellent service again, quality goods sent at lightning speed. A credit to how things should be done.

I had various recommendations of who to get sails from but the other day I saw a yacht with your sails and it just shone out, the shape looked beautiful, so I decided there and then to contact you.

Thanks Frank, sails arrived, what a work of art! They are incredible!

The fittings arrived in record time and I am really grateful to you for such a superb service.

I was pleased to receive my new IOM sails today, they are very good indeed just what I wanted, possibly the best I have ever had, good workmanship.

Many thanks for the superb Seawind sails that arrived this morning. I really appreciate the speed of processing of the order, and the precision of the finished sails.

Sails received with thanks. Great quality and great fit!

The M-class sails arrived and absolutely fantastic, really pleased and more than happy to recommend your workmanship.

The Voyager sails arrived in perfect condition and look beautiful. Thank you very much for the nice work!

Just to let you know that the new IOM sails work very well, thank you. I had 2x1st, 2x2nds,2x3rds, and 1 fourth. So I came first overall after 7 races.

I live on the coast of NSW in Australia. Some time ago I bought Spirit No.2751 (the one featured on your site). I am currently racing the boat here in Australia in several IOM fleets. The elliptical rudder works perfectly and the boat is at full potential now, points higher than the TS2 and the Topiko. Neither are faster off the wind.... Thanks for a great boat, I have never felt another IOM that glides to windward like the Spirit 3. All your efforts are appreciated here.

I just wanted to say a really big thank you for the lovely suit of Dacron Heritage (sewn) sails you have made for my vintage 4 foot model J Class sloop. I have put the sails on the spars and they look superb! They are beautifully made as I expected them to be, but in all fairness it is actually better than I had even hoped for.

Sails have arrived safely and look fantastic. Very many thanks.

Many thanks, order arrived today, superb service as always.

Just a note to thank you for phoning me with the expected delivery of the Dragon sails. They came the same day! I have to say that they look stunning and beautifully made with lovely details.

Safely received! Thanks for the great service.

Hope you are doing well, again, thank you for the (cotton) sails. They turned out beautifully.

I immediately rigged my 36"-class and was happy about the perfect fit of the (cotton) sails. They are wonderful and I am happy. Thank you very much!

Sails arrived this morning, as promised; they are a work of art - the real thing! Whatever else people say about the barge, they will say "who made her sails?"

Sails have arrived safely. But what a superb job, my old girl will be the best dressed yacht at any of our VMYG meetings. Wonderful work of the very highest standard as always from you, I cannot thank you enough.

I've never won anything before with my One metre (IOM) yacht but with your sails newly fitted I won the series of races. An excellent job, marvellous, thank you.

Hi. Sails arrived today, very impressed. Thank you.

I received my sails today....PERFECT...arrives safely. Perfect fit and I look forward to sailing with the new sails!!!!!! THANKS,

Received the sails, many thanks - as usual, quality better than expected!

Hi Frank, The One Metre sails are looking great.

Hi Frank thanks for another great (sail) job.

Thank you for your most attentive service, my best regards.

Dear Frank, the sails arrived safely on time, as promised. Superb quality and workmanship, as ever.

more comments from satisfied customers

Just a quick email to let you know the J class sails arrived in perfect condition and look amazing. I will of course send you some pictures when the boat is finished.

Hi Frank. The sails arrived today - they look great. I very much look forward to getting them rigged and tried out. I've already taken trophies with the sails you made for my 10 rater so hoping for more of the same.

The (Seawind) sails have arrived, the only thing I can say is - WOW. What a difference compared with the standard sails.

Absolutely magnificent (cotton) sails!

Congratulations for your sails! They look perfect and the belly looks fine and regular. Many thanks for the high quality of your work.

Many thanks for the most efficient service.

Sails received with thanks. You are a true craftsman.

Looking forwards to receiving the (Mascotte) sails, your workmanship always gives me pleasure.

Many thanks for the first class service you always give, items arrived this morning so that's my bank holiday weekend sorted!

Sails arrived this morning, superb as usual, thanks again.

Beautiful suit of sails arrived safe this morning, thank you.

Hello Frank, the sails arrived yesterday and are super thanks. I attach a photo of them fitted to my yacht.

Thanks for the BEAUTIFUL (cotton) SAILS which arrived today. What fantastic work. Amazing. Well worth the wait! I've fitted the sails to the spars. Fantastic. My goodness you are a skilled and talented man. I saw the shape you had made before fitting and understood why you did so, but only when rigged did it all make sense. Amazing. And those tiny brass eyelets... I took the yacht to my sister this morning. What a thing of beauty, was the unanimous cry. Forgot to get a picture for you in all the excitement... watch this space. I am so grateful to you, and will be coming back for more!

Thanks for your great service and friendly advice.

Order arrived this morning (next day), all OK, excellent service.

Just arrived, perfect delivery! Thank you Frank, and have a nice Weekend!

Many thanks for the prompt reply (directing me to the price list). Lots of goodies there!

The items arrived in the post today, all Ok. Thank you for the quick and excellent service, its nice to know that small orders like mine are given the same service as larger orders.

Hi Frank, (cotton) sails have arrived, they are perfect, you did a lovely job, will send you a pic when on the boat.

Just received my glorious suit! Magnificent! The tablings..... marvellous!!!... the stitching lines, the overall shape, every detail, all very beautiful indeed! I can't tell you how delighted I am. You must understand, the wind has always held a magical place in my heart and the thin membrane with which we apply our feeble human attempts to have it do our way over an equally mysterious sea..... alchemy indeed. I hold this suit in my hands and it all comes alive again. You sir, are a Wizard of Dacron. Thank you for your brilliant work, I raise a glass to you Sir,

Really thanks again for your great products and service!

The sails arrived safely yesterday and look amazing. I am very pleased with the result and they will make the yacht look smarter than she has ever done.

Hello Frank. Thank you for all your help, the sails, mast and fittings are all first class and Starlet is sailing beautifully.

Amazing. I wish all British businesses ran on your lines!

Hi Frank, sails (Nottingham J) arived safely this morning, very pleased, they are very well made and look beautiful. Merry Christmas.

Thanks Frank, wonderful service.

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I have rearranged the information into separate web pages.  The one page was getting too large was slow to load and difficult then to navigate.  Hopefully by dividing the information into separate areas navigation will be easier.

There are many resources which offer all sorts of assistance to the beginner model sail maker.  I have used as many as I could find including the following and would like to share some of my findings.  I'm sure some will find fault with my ideas and I am only too happy to receive feedback.  E-mail me on [email protected]

Lester Gilbert's one metre site

Larry Robinson's book on 'How To' make sails advertised in Radio Yacht Supplies Australia ; Radio Sailing Shop

While not specifically for models this program the ' SailCut CAD ' program allows plotting of panels etc for sails.  Its discussions and examples are very useful.  This is a free download but does require some computer knowledge to set up

An excellent article by Paul Bogataj on " How do sails work " - essential reading!

In all of this literature there appears to be two common themes

1. To achieve a truly efficient sail it must be constructed with separate panels with built in shape or curvature.

2. Some means has to be used to hold the edges of the panels to the correct shape while joining them.

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• Bluenose Canadian Schooner

Making Sails for Model Ships

December 3, 2017

On my Model Shipways Bluenose build , I debated whether or not to make the sails.  Many (most?) ship models do not include full sails.  The Model Shipways kit was designed with sails, and includes the sail cloth as part of the kit.  The inclusion of sails was actually one of the factors that led me to select this kit for my second build.

With the booms and gaffs rigged and installed, I would basically be finished with the build if I omit the sails.  The remaining rigging is all attached to sails, so I’d leave it off if I didn’t include sails.  However, the sails really do add something to the model, especially for a schooner like this.

So, I decided to make sails.  I’ve never made sails before, so this will be a learning experience.  Here’s how I ended up doing it…

Choosing How Sails are Displayed

An important decision to make before you start is how you’ll be displaying sails.  There are three different ways you can go:

• For Display

(I made those last two names up).

Furled sails are sails that are lowered.  Many modelers choose to do furled sails on their ships.  The advantage is that the sails don’t cover everything up and make a model look like a bunch of cloth.  When doing furled sails, you typically don’t make the full sail, instead making smaller version.  The sail is put in place, but is bunched up and tied to the appropriate boom or gaff.

Realistic sails try to show the sails rigged and set as they would be while the ship is actually at sea.  Ships adjusted their sails depending on the situation.  In most cases, some sails would be raised while others would be lowered.  Some sails might be set off to one side.  Realistic sails would try to show the ship in some kind of ‘real’ sailing state.

Making sails simply ‘for display’ is what I’m doing.  I’m making all the sails, and installing them all in their raised state.  I’m not going to set any sails off to the sides – everything is just going to be installed straight and even.  You’d probably never see a ship at sea actually set like this, but I think it works well for a model.

When to Make Sails

From what I can tell, the general practice is to make the sails  before rigging and installing the booms and gaffs.  Several of the sails need to be laced onto the booms and gaffs, and that is nearly impossible to do directly on the ship.

The standard process seems to be:

• Build the booms and gaffs.
• Make the sails based on the plans.
• Attach sails to the booms and gaffs as appropriate.
• Install and rig the booms and gaffs.
• Add the additional rigging for each sail.

I’m not confident that all my booms and gaffs are 100% accurately sized, and I suspect that the dimensions of my sails might need to be adjusted to fit my particular ship.  So, I intentionally put off making sails until I had installed all the booms and gaffs.

Once I had everything installed on the ship, I could make templates for the sails that take into account both the plans and the size/shape of my actual build.

Of course, this means that I had a bunch of rigging for the booms and gaffs that would need to be un-done so the booms and gaffs could be removed.  That was fine with me, because I had avoided the use of glue when securing the rigging.  Everything was either tied off (easy to un-tie), or attached with a hook or shackle (easy to remove).

So, my process is:

• Build the booms and gaffs .
• Install and rig the booms and gaffs .
• Make the sails based on the actual layout of my ship.
• De-rig the booms and gaffs, and remove them from the ship.
• Re-install the booms and gaffs, and their rigging.

For me, this approach (while more work) has several advantages:

• Initially, I’m able to focus on getting the booms and gaffs properly installed and rigged, without the sails getting in the way.
• I can start with sail templates based on the plans, and adjust as necessary to fit the exact size/shape of my ship.
• Once sails are ready to install, I can quickly get them rigged without spending any time on the other rigging for the booms and gaffs, since those runs are already done and just need to be re-tied/attached.

Paper Templates

Making the actual sails starts with making paper templates.  Some of the sails were too big to use normal paper, so I picked up a roll of white craft paper.

For each sail, I took a piece of paper and laid it over the plans.  I marked the corners of the sail, then used a ruler to draw lines between the marks, giving me the outline of the sail.  Some sails have curves that I had to hand-draw.

Once the shape was laid out on the paper, I cut the paper to shape.

A paper template for the jib sail.

Next I positioned the paper template on the actual ship in the correct spot.  I took note of anything that didn’t fit just right, and adjusted the template as necessary.  Some sails needed to be made slightly smaller, while some had to be made slightly larger.

To help me visualize the sail, I also marked where the hems on the edges will go, along with any other key elements of the sail.  For the edge hems, I’ll be folding the fabric over and sewing it.  I’ll be shooting for a 1/16″ hem, so I used that size for the markings on the template.

The actual sails on the ship were made from strips of cloth, not one big piece.  To simulate this, I’ll just be sewing lines onto the cloth.  For some of the sails, I went ahead and marked these lines on the template since they need to be oriented correctly according to the plans.

The main and fore sails also have  reef bands , which run horizontally along the lower portion of the sail.  These were marked as well.

Preparing the Sail Cloth

Once I was satisfied with the template, I got out the sail cloth.  Model Shipways includes sail cloth with the kit.  This cloth is a medium weight cotton cloth in an off-white color.  The kit includes enough to make all the sails, assuming you get everything right on the first try.  I knew that wasn’t going to work, so I ordered two more packages of sail cloth from them.  It was relatively inexpensive – about $7 for each package of cloth.

Sails on a ship were rarely bright white.  I’ve seen that many modelers will dye their sail cloth to get a desired shade.  There are many tricks for this, like dipping the material in coffee.  I felt that the off-white color of the Model Shipways cloth was fine, so I didn’t dye my cloth.

If you’re wanting to use other sail cloth, look for something lightweight.  Almost all fabric is going to be too thick and out of scale, so just do the best you can.  I actually used some fabric from a local hobby store for a few ‘test runs’, and learned a few things.  Look for fabric with a tight knit, so the fabric doesn’t start to come apart as you cut it.  Also look for something without too much stretch, as stretchy fabric can distort the shape of the sails as you sew them.

Ideally, you want to wash, dry, and iron the sail cloth before you start.  Most fabric will shrink a little during this process, so you want this out of the way before you start cutting things to size.  Doing this will also release any wrinkles in the fabric.  (I was too excited to get started, and didn’t do this.)

Once you’ve got your fabric ready and your template sized, you’re ready to cut some fabric.

I used a fabric marker to do all the markings on the fabric.  I picked this up at a local hobby store in the sewing section for a couple dollars.  This marker uses special ink that disappears as it evaporates.  This means I can draw all over the fabric, and within a few hours the ink is gone.  I found this to give much better results than using a pencil and trying to erase markings.

The paper template is used to mark up the fabric being used for the sail.

A note on marking fabric…since I’m going to be folding over the edges of the sail to create hems, one side of the sail is going to look better than the other.  Often, you pick a ‘display side’ of the ship, and put ugly stuff (like the worse sail side) so it isn’t visible from the display side.  I found that with the way I was marking, folding, and sewing the cloth, I wanted the markings on the display side.  Making sure I marked the display side ensured that I as I worked I ended up with all the ugly stuff on the back.

First the outline of the sail is marked on the fabric.  Be sure to leave extra space on all sides outside of the sail.

A second outline is made 1/16″  outside of the first outline.  This is the hem that I want to end up with on the finished sail.

A third outline is made 1/2″  outside of the second outline.  This one doesn’t have to be perfect…this is just a guide for cutting the fabric.

You can also mark the reef lines and strips at this point if desired.  I typically didn’t mark the strips, since I was able to position those accurately using my sewing machine.

The fabric is trimmed, leaving excess material around the edges.

Once everything is marked, I cut the fabric along the outer-most outline.  I used a rotary cutter (like a pizza cutter), which gave much better results than scissors.

To make sails you have to do a lot of sewing.  I have no experience sewing.  Doing all this by hand with a needle and thread was not practical, so I bought a cheap little ‘hobby’ sewing machine.  That machine was junk, and broke within the first 20 minutes.  Since I’m hoping to keep this hobby going for a few decades, I decided to go ahead and invest in a real sewing machine.

At my local hobby store, the staff helped me select a good quality machine.  I got it for under $200.  The advantages of a real machine include:

• It won’t jam.
• Variable speeds.
• Selectable stitch length and width (critical for trying to get the stitching remotely close to ‘scale’).
• Many different computer-controlled stitch types, so you can do more than just a simple straight stitch.  This would end up making the reef bands much better.

It took me a few hours to get the hang of using the machine, but my skill level increased quickly.  While I certainly couldn’t sew a shirt or a pair of pants, by the second or third sail I was flying along like a pro.

Since you’ll be sewing, you’ll need thread.  There are three main considerations with the thread.

First is the color.  This is a matter of personal preference.  I’ve seen some models where the stitching on the sails was very high-contrast (dark brown thread on white cloth).  I’ve also seen some where the thread was the same color as the cloth.  I felt like the stitching shouldn’t stand out  too much , and I wanted to rely on the texture of the thread to define the lines rather than the color.  So, I went with a ‘natural’ color thread that ended up being really close to the color of the cloth.

The second consideration is the thread material.  A hobby store will likely have hundreds of different kinds of thread.  There are synthetic materials and natural materials.  I went with a cotton thread.  Why?  No really good reason except that all my rigging lines are cotton and the sail cloth is cotton, so it seemed like a good idea.

The final consideration is quantity.  I have no idea how to predict the amount of thread that will be needed (there may be some ‘trick’ to it that the pros know).  Initially I bought one spool of the thread.  That only made two sails.  When I went back to by more, they were out of that exact thread, so I had to order more online.  That caused a week delay in making sails.  Obviously you wan the thread to be the same on all the sails, so buy a lot of  the same thread up front.  Thread is cheap, and it is better to have some leftover than to run out.

Sewing the Edges

On to sewing.

The first step is to sew the hems on the edges.  I start with the longest edge first, then do the opposite edge, continuing on until all edges are sewn.  The cloth is folded over at the first outline (the line that defines the actual edge of the sail) and pinned into place.  The 1/16″ line that indicates the edge of the hem should be inside the sail.  Since the cloth was cut 1/2″ past that line (on that third outline), there is some extra material here that makes pinning easier.  I’ll cut that off later.

The edges are folded over to create a hem and pinned in place.

The hem is sewn on the edge.

The cloth then goes into the machine and gets stitched up.  I used the machine’s reverse feature to double-stitch the first couple stitches to secure the thread, then just ran a straight stitch down the edge, staying between the edge of the sail and the 1/16″ hem marking.  I used a small stitch length so things weren’t  too out of scale.

My machine lets me set the position of the needle, allowing me to get really close to the edge.

Once the stitch was complete, the extra thread was clipped off.  I used a pair of sharp scissors to carefully cut off the extra cloth along the 1/16″ hem line.

A completed edge hem, about 1/16″ wide.

This was repeated for each edge.

Two edges meet in a corner.

Adding ‘Strips’

To simulate the strips of material, some modelers simply draw lines on the cloth.  I decided to run a stitch for each strip instead.  It is more work, but it goes pretty fast

The ‘strips’ of sail sail cloth are simulated with stitches.  Each sail has a unique strip layout shown on the plans.

The width of the strips is indicated on the plans, as well as the layout of the strips.  It turned out that the width of the strips matched with space between the needle on my sewing machine and the edge of the ‘foot’.  So I didn’t need to mark the strips on the fabric – I just positioned the fabric under the foot and ran the material through the machine.

Reef Bands and Points

The large lower sails (main sail and fore sail) have  reef bands .  These are horizontal bands across the sails.  My sewing machine has a setting that creates a stitch that looks like a ladder (or railroad tracks?).  I adjusted the stitch length and width to get the desired size, then ran this stitch across the sail to create the reef bands.

I ran this right  over the strip lines.  This is easier than doing the reef bands first and trying to start/stop the strip lines at the bands, and you can’t really tell the difference.

Reef bands were sewn in using a different stitch pattern on my machine.

At each point where a strip line crosses the reef band, there is a short rope that goes through the sail.  These ropes were used to secure the sail when it was lowered and bundled up.  I cut a bunch of 1″ long pieces of 0.008″ tan rigging line and punched them through at the appropriate spots.  I used a small bit of fabric glue on each side to keep these ropes flat against the sail instead of sticking out.

Corner Attachment Points

The sails typically have rigging lines attached to the corners of the sails.  This means you need something in each corner to attach a rigging line to.  From my research, it looks like most sails had a rope that ran around the outside edge of the sail, and that rope would form an eye at the sail corners to create the attachment points.

I decided not to add this rope.  I wasn’t confident I could make it look good, and I thought the tan line would stand out too much.

So, I simply sewed brass rings (made from wire) into each corner.  This was done manually with a needle and thread.

Anchor points in the corners were made from brass wire and sewn in.

Finishing Up

Once everything is sewn and I’m happy with the results, there are a few final steps.

I do a final pass to trim anything that looks bad (edges of hems, loose threads, etc.).

After all my disappearing fabric markings have evaporated and disappeared, I iron the sail to flatten it out and remove any remaining wrinkles.

Finally, I use some fabric glue along any exposed fabric edges (like the hems) to keep them from fraying.  I also use a little fabric glue on the ends of stitches to ensure they don’t come loose.

Then the sail is ready to install!

A few completed sails on the ship.

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No32 Sail Eyelet Starter Kit (20mm)

£ 69.06 Incl. VAT £ 57.55 Excl. VAT

Quality British made 20mm eyelets & fitting tools.

Description

• Reviews (2)

Kits comprise of a hole cutter, fitting tool and 50 solid brass eyelets*. Both eyelets and tools are made from quality materials and are designed to grip your material without compromise.

No 32 Sail Eyelets have an approximately 20mm diameter hole.

Typical uses include:

• Sail repair
• Leather work
• Arts & crafts
• Plus many more

*An eyelet consists of two parts: the eyelet “front” and a “washer” the material is tightly griped in a sandwich between them when fitted by the tool.

We make our eyelets from high quality solid brass NOT brass plated steel, therefore they don’t rust. They’re made to the original BS3102 standard and so are produced from suitably thick enough brass not to distort when put under strain and to not feel “flimsy” or lightweight.

2 reviews for No32 Sail Eyelet Starter Kit (20mm)

Harley – 11th January 2024

A really good quality product. The eyelets are very robust feeling, and the company was very responsive to my questions.

Many eyelets I’ve used crease and split, but so far these have set perfectly every time.

Jonathan (verified owner) – 27th November 2022

Really good quality. A bit pricey but it is metal and it is expensive material nowadays… I needed the eyelet to consolidate a passby in a foam cardboard. Really good result without damaging the foam cardboard itself which I was worried about at the beginning.

If it is your first time assemble eyelets, please allow 2 eyelets for tests. It is really easy to assemble. I was expecting far more complicated and hard. Not at all the case. You only need a hammer at home on top of the eyelet kit itself.

Sadly I needed only 5 eyelets and it was sold only in full kit of 50 eyelets + the two metal parts to bring the eyelet together. Would be great to be able to rent the two metal parts and being able to buy at unit in order to reduce the product losses going to the bin and the headache to find an appropriate bin collector as it cannot be binned on normal bin at home. After contacting the company they told me I could send back the unused items and they will ensure correct disposal (which means they will be able to reuse for a new order and keep the £ change ). So I have kept the unused sets and will prefer to give to art school instead.

Ps: it come really well packed and really fast.

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No30 Sail Eyelet Starter Kit (16mm)

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000 Grommet (5mm) Starter Kit

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Hanolex Ltd, 246 Whitworth Road, Rochdale, Greater Manchester, OL12 0JL.

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Eyelets - small - 100/pack

Product code: 078

Eyelets - small - 100/pack. Sail eyelets, nickel plated brass, 1.5 mm ID, 2.0 mm OD, 3.5 mm flange OD, 3.3 mm overall length, 3.0 mm under flange, 100/pack.

Clench using eyelet punch, ref. 090 . Look in the tools section.

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Washers - small - 100/pack

Product code: 079

Washers - small- 100/pack, nickel plated brass, 2.2 mm ID, 4.8 mm OD. Use with sail eyelet ref. 078-030 . Use one per eyelet. 100/pack

Eyelets - medium - 100/pack

Product code: 080

Eyelets - medium - 100/pack. Sail eyelets, nickel plated brass, 3.2 mm ID, 3.8 mm OD, 5.5 mm flange OD, 3.3 mm long, 100/pack.

Clench using eyelet punch, ref. 091 . Look under tools.

Washers - medium - 100/pack

Product code: 081

Tamping tool - for medium washers

Product code: 081-TOOL

Punch - for small eyelets.

Product code: 090

Punch - for small sail eyelets, ref. 078-030.

Use with eyelets, ref. 078-030 , and washers, ref. 079 .

Punch - for medium eyelets

Product code: 091

Making Model Yacht Sails - Larry Robinson's method of building in shape

Product code: BK-38

Tapered battens - 65 - 10 sets/pack

Product code: BSET-65

Tapered battens - IOM, thin - 10 sets/pack

Product code: BSET-THIN-IOM

Deck patch material - 0.1 m^2

Product code: DP-MAT-0.1

140 g/metre², black self adhesive Dacron, for cutting your own marks, 315 x 315 mm, 0.1 m2.

Deck patch material - 0.5 m^2

Product code: DP-MAT-0.5

140 g/metre2, self adhesive Dacron, also suitable for sail reinforcement, 1370 x 375 mm, 0.5m2.

OTHER SIZES to suit your cutter are possible - contact the SAILSetc office for prices.

Set of deck patches for SAILSetc boat

Product code: DP-SET-65

Mylar film - 35 micron - 320 mm x 10 metre roll

Product code: FILM-035

Mylar film - 35 micron - 320 mm x 10 metre roll, translucent. 52 grams per square metre. Suitable for sails on 65 Class, Footy and similar. Suggested use: No 1 suit and No 2 headsails. Use 50 micron for No 2 mainsails and lower sails.

Mylar film - 50 micron - 500 mm x 10 metre roll

Product code: FILM-050

Mylar film - 50 micron - 500 mm x 10 metre roll, translucent. 72 grams per square metre. Suitable for No 1 sails on IOM, M, 10R and similar.

Mylar film - 75 micron - 625 mm x 10 metre roll

Product code: FILM-075

Mylar film - 75 micron - 625 mm x 10 metre roll, translucent. 108 grams per square metre. Suitable for No 2 and lower sails on IOM, M, 10R and similar.

Headboards - M, 6M & 10R class - 10/pack

Product code: HB-10

Hook and loop - self adhesive twin Velcro - 25 mm

Product code: HL-25

Discs - 20 mm Ø self adhesive discs x 50

Product code: S-DISC

Discs - 20 mm Ø, sets of 50 self adhesive white Dacron discs.

Sail reinforcement/repair material, for repairs and reinforcement of sails especially over the end of battens, at the luff where eyelets will be added, and at the tack and head of foresails/mainsails over the ends of the luff tape.

Sail reinforcement - self adhesive discs & strips

Product code: S-REIN

Self adhesive discs & strips - sail reinforcement/repair material in a handy sheet. For repairs and reinforcement of sails - and also useful to keep in your tool box for use on hull and rigging.

Deck patch material tape - 25 mm wide. Self adhesive.

Product code: TDP-25

Choose from dark blue, blue, white, yellow, pink, orange, red.

Mylar tape - 50 metre rolls - various widths

Product code: TM

Mylar tape - 50 metre rolls - various widths. Ultra-thin, transparent, self adhesive, 50 micron, for sail edge and seam reinforcement. 50 metre roll.

Use 2 and 4 mm wide for leech tapes of sails for very small, medium and large boats. Use 10 and 12 mm wide for luff tapes for small and medium boats. Use 12 and 20 mm wide for adding reinforcement to panel seams.

Luff tape - 18 mm wide

Product code: TP-18

Luff tape - 18 mm wide. Icarex Polyester headsail luff tape, 18 mm wide. Choice of lengths and colours.

Apply using double sided tape ref. TS-06 .

Luff tape - 18, 30 or 40 mm - white

Product code: TP-WHITE

Luff tape - 18, 30 or 40 mm. Polyester headsail luff tape, 18, 30 or 40 mm wide. White only. For coloured tapes please see ref. TP-20 .

The wider tapes are useful for forming the luff of pocket luff mainsails.

Apply using doubled sided tape ref. TS-06 .

Double sided tape - 6 mm x 100 metre roll

Product code: TS-06

Double sided tape - 6 mm x 100 metre roll. Double sided self adhesive tape for sail seams and luff tapes. Per 100 metre/roll.

This super thin double sided tape is only 50 microns thick including both thicknesses of adhesive. This makes it the best product for use with the thicknesses of sail film that are used on rc yachts. Double sided tapes available from sail maker suppliers and from other sources are typically twice or more times thicker.

Double sided tape - 10 mm x 100 metre roll

Product code: TS-10

Double sided tape - 10 mm x 100 metre roll. Double sided self adhesive tape for sail seams and luff tapes.

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