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"We will rebuild. We will return."

Hope Rising-Lahaina

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Official Lahaina Yacht Club HOPE RISING campaign

All proceeds go to rebuilding the Lahaina Yacht Club

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Aloha & Welcome aboard the Hope Rising Lahaina Yacht Club Project.

All profits  will support the club and the rebuilding of the clubhouse.

We will rebuild. We will return. Until the day we can welcome you home again, please stand with us by participating in our Hope Rising campaign.

Founded in 1965, the Lahaina Yacht Club has been a haven for generations of kama’aina, members, guests, and visitors from clubs around the world. Sailors, fisherman, ocean enthusiasts, and even landlubbers were immediately met with aloha and advised to make themselves at home.

Walking through the saloon doors felt like a journey through history in real-time. The present has destroyed our clubhouse, sailboats, and ocean vessels. However, our future is bright. The members & guests are the heart & soul of our club.

The Lahaina Yacht Club extends to you Mahalo Nui Loa for your kokua and your business.

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An Ode to Lahaina

  • By Neil Rabinowitz
  • September 6, 2023

Lahaina Harbor

I came to Lahaina from the south. After 13 days on an unleashed reach out of French Polynesia , I clung to the mast top, my legs wrapped in a death grip. We swung west into Alenuihaha Channel, known to Hawaiians as the river of laughing waters. The sun blazed and the trades howled as 20-foot rollers raced up our stern and frothed over the rails. Flying our heaviest chute was risky, as the channel boiled with towering whitecaps, but the Beach Boys blared from the deck speakers, and Maui loomed ahead in all its verdant glory. Cobalt-blue waves cascaded on the approaching lava rocks of Kaupo. Hana stood lush to the east, with the Big Island’s Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea silhouetted to the south.

I hadn’t been back to America in years, and I now charged full-tilt—unvanquished from the south seas under a swollen spinnaker, drunk on Brian Wilson.

It was gnarly up the mast. The horizon was a sweep of white water wrapped along the Maui shore, with roller after roller that threatened to bury us in the troughs. We broached, like a dog shaking a rat on a rope, and I slammed hard onto the deck with the bosun’s chair tangled around my legs. Our keel broke the surface as we buried the spreaders and spun out of control. All of us hung white-knuckled until the boat shuddered violently and tried to stand. We were a seasoned crew, baked brown and stringy by the sun. We hadn’t dropped the chute in 2,000 miles since leaving Tahiti. The closer Maui inched, the more we felt invincible. Landfall does that. After days at sea, every south sea island is an intoxicating rebirth of the senses, a virginal stirring of the heart. Lahaina was all of that. We had the boat tidied by the time we slipped past Kaho’olawe, into the lee of west Maui and the tranquil, humpback-strewn waters between Lahaina and Lanai.

humpback whale breaching

Among cruisers around beach fires back in the South Pacific, Lahaina’s reputation was as a dusty, one-horse whaling town. I was on the beach in Huahine, set to hitch a berth to New Zealand, when “Hurricane Annie” Musselman, a striking female sailor fresh ashore after a 20-day sail from Maui, convinced me of the fun awaiting me in Hawaii, where I could then catch a boat to New Zealand next season.

In Hawaii, an endless arrival of passagemakers and wannabe sailors from the mainland made Lahaina their first stop. Those flying over never felt the same passion for the place; landfall was the only way to fathom the prize of Lahaina. From the sailor’s eye after days on the open ocean, Lahaina offered seduction like no other, bathed in the late-afternoon sunset sweetened by the fragrance of tuberose and mango that wafted miles offshore.

It wasn’t the thought of endless lilikoi cocktails, or the fantasy of tropically toned women exuberant with song and dance, their hair pinned with red hibiscus flowers and with plumeria leis around their necks. Beyond the fertile earth, fresh fruits, waterfalls, perfect surf, and harbor life of ocean sailors was the stunning Hawaiian backdrop and a celebratory welcome for sailors fresh from the sea, dues paid. Welcome to the land of earthly delights.

Lahaina women dancing

Lahaina’s harbor, first seen as mast tops peering over a small breakwall, was packed with working and provisioning yachts. At the entrance lay a weary 19th-century whaling ship, long in the rigging, and over its shoulder was an old missionary plantation home and museum adorned with whaling artifacts and reminders of the invasion of the Hawaiian Kingdom centuries ago.

The waterfront public library next door was the best place to watch the sunset through the palms, and next to that loomed the colonial, columned veranda of the Pioneer Inn, with its red roof, green sides, creaking wainscoting, whirring ceiling fans, open-air everything, and swinging saloon doors with a carved figurehead standing guard. The sound of a honky-tonk piano player pounding the ivories and wailing rousing tunes drifted from the saloon and across the anchorage, serenading us. Just beyond reach of the saloon was the canopy of an enormous banyan tree spreading a hundred yards in every direction. A missionary gift, it had been planted in 1873 by the widow of King Kamehameha. Lahaina, the capital of the Kingdom of Hawaii, which Kamehameha violently united, became the whaling capital of the world and commanded respect.

Banyan Tree

Even with its tin-pan serenades drifting across the water and its promises of revelry ashore, Lahaina was a sacred destination for those crossing the Pacific. Its backdrop was a riotous splash of color—a transformative sight after weeks at sea. Lush green cane fields rose up the slopes behind town, waving in the trade winds like a frozen sea. Red earthen foothills, ascending steep slopes to the majestic cloud-shrouded tops of the West Maui Mountains. Lahaina’s low-slung waterfront foreground bustled with green, shanty-style houses and humble shops all the way to the sugar cane mill, where every so often the sweet bouquet of molasses would blanket the town. Most harbor regulars nursed dreams of sailing to the South Pacific and were stopping just long enough to find a berth on a yacht heading south. Bikini-clad gals hawked sailing charters while gruff, unshaven sport-fishermen pitched billfish hunts. Sunset-cocktail-excursion captains, in bright-white uniforms with golden epaulets, recruited passengers. Sport divers in wetsuits hauling scuba tanks joined in the shouts amid the beer-drinking revelries of black coral hunters, stewed in their constant highs from too many daily 300-foot dives.  

Lahaina waterfront

Lording over it all, doling out privileges and access like a pirate king, was the leather-skinned, gray-bearded harbormaster. The rest of the town was second fiddle to the workings of that tiny harbor, the heartbeat of the town. Inebriated or not, the harbormaster could make or break sailing futures in this part of the Pacific. Flippant declarations boomed from the breakwall as he stalked the docks, banishing boats from the harbor, relegating them to endless hobbyhorsing at anchor, scheduling impossible departure times, and controlling the pace of work and supplies to replenish desperate sailors amid bribes, favors, and hard-luck tales.

A steady stream of entrepreneurs, street hustlers, harbor alcoholics, and starry-eyed youthful adventurers were always coming and going, convinced that they were at a pitstop en route to the South Pacific. Seemingly every waiter and waitress had dreams of being discovered, landing a berth on a boat heading south.

For many other locals, content with their hospitality and construction jobs, Lahaina was just home. Several hundred one-story houses of all shapes and tropical colors led from the water’s edge to the hillsides by the mill, sprawling neighborly toward the Kaanapali beaches to the north and the Olowalu beaches to the south.

Lahaina waterfront restaurant

Kaanapali, with its stretch of high-rise beachfront resorts, kept a good distance, about 4 miles from the hum of Lahaina, so their pampered guests could join the tourist hordes swarming town and then return to the civilized world of luxury Hawaiian resorts.

By contrast, many of Lahaina’s simply constructed neighborhood homes had basic tin roofs and green plywood sides, and were smart with a humble pride of ownership. Most houses had flourishing window boxes, and were peppered with hibiscus and plumeria hedges under the shade of towering mango and avocado trees with sweet gardenias, all thriving with minimal care. There was no need for heat or air conditioning, or even screens, in these homes. The streets were alive with locals and young folk making ends meet in town. Dogs barked, kids played, barbecues were everywhere, and bicycles were fine for getting around.

Silhouette of a little girl standing with hands in the air against scenic sunset, Lahaina bay, Maui, Hawaii

Kids wearing flip-flops and swimsuits skateboarded by the park or pedaled banana-seat bikes through town to the harbor break with surfboards under their arms. Pickups were the vehicle of choice, practical work vehicles suited to racing though cane fields. They’d cruise through town, tunes blasting with surfboards piled high, heading to the beach. Older locals surrounded by their broods of kids and grandkids hosted hula dances and strummed ukuleles beneath the banyan tree, or at the beach or grassy town parks, picnicking to beat the heat.

Lahaina was a tropical mecca of American pizzazz, where mainlanders swapped tales of the South Pacific. With the romance of the south seas under my belt, I was in no hurry to go back to sea, so I ran sailboat charters from here on a handful of yachts from 40 to 65 feet long that swept tourists off the beach for a heart-stopping sprint out to the Pailolo Channel wind line. We got a charge exciting the passengers, shifting without warning from a gentle, drink-sipping 7-knot drift to a rollicking, heeled-over, mai-tai-be-damned 15-knot dash into the teeth of the trades. If the passengers did not seem like they could handle the wind line’s excitement, we sailed calmly to Lanai’s Manele Bay, stopping halfway for a swim with the whales.

Charter boat at sunset in Hawaii

The real charter yachts were too big and too busy to handle the daily traffic in and out of Lahaina Harbor, so we sat on moorings off the resort hotels. There was Johnny Weismueller’s 60-foot 1929 schooner, Allure ; Barry Hilton’s Alden 57, Teragram ; the 54-foot aluminum ketch Minset ; the Hermaphrodite schooner Rendezvous ; and a handful of performance catamarans, which had the best layouts to accommodate hordes of tourist passengers, complete with midship bars, and could be rammed right onto the sand for loading and offloading. And the charter fleet wasn’t the only thing humming with intensity and tourists: Lahaina’s Front Street, the town’s waterfront artery, was the place to be. You could grab a drink at the Blue Max—a tiny, second-deck bar overlooking the seawall—and discover Elton John playing a surprise session on the piano. Jim Messina might drop in to perform at Kula’s Silversword Inn; Taj Mahal could be seen playing the congas to an empty beach at sunset; and Stephen Stills and David Crosby were regularly jamming aboard their boats at anchor. I recall Peter Fonda’s 73-foot sloop, Tatoosh , returning from the Marquesas, where I had recently shared trails with its crew while hiking the Nuku Hiva jungle. There were celebrities everywhere on Maui, a place where they could enjoy themselves without facing fandom.

Lahaina waterfront

One weekend, we filed aboard the square-rigged Rendezvous with friends and sailed to Oahu to hear the Eagles play Diamond Head crater. Days later, we rounded up our festival-weary crew for a quiet sail back to Maui. Getting around the islands was as easy as going down to the harbor and sticking out your thumb. One friend stood at the harbor entrance and hitched a ride on a sport-fishing boat heading to Oahu. He planted himself in the fighting chair and opened his paperback, ready for a nice read. Next thing he knew, the crew had hooked into something. They grabbed his book, strapped him in, and handed over a live rod. He spent the next four hours landing a 750-pound marlin for the first-ever fish thrill of his life.

Most of the Maui charter boats dragged lines just in case. They often landed ono, mahi, ahi and billfish. Once ashore, they would sprint to the best seafood restaurant in town and pocket a few hundred extra dollars for the crew. I recall a wedding sailing charter aboard Minset around Molokai’s Mokuhooniki Rock that double-hooked two big ono. After the wedding party fought and landed both fish, they returned to the dock bloodied, drunk and still smiling, with rave reviews.

The break at the harbor entrance was sweet enough to lure sunrise surfers from upcountry, a 30-minute drive from the volcanic slopes of Haleakala. As thick as tourists were in town, Lahaina’s waterfront shops had to cater to them. Along with its bounty of missionary folklore and whaling nostalgia, open-air bars, dive shops and salad bars, Lahaina sold trinkets, T-shirts, ice cream, Hawaiian-style jewelry, and the sort of faster food that tourists craving the hotel pool could quickly sample.

Person surfing in an ocean curl

Around it all were the locals, living a life in the seams of tourist traffic, enjoying a shady beachfront tuft of palms and greenery, sitting with relatives on the sand, eating fish packets and coconut rice on the seawall. The proprietary goods that they depended on were relegated to tired one-story shopping centers on the periphery of town. The tourists came and went; it wasn’t difficult for residents to still feel a sense of steadfastness to Lahaina town. They tolerated the young people who moved in to take their hotel and tourism jobs. Compared with the relentless tide of visitors who abandoned their sensibilities when they became tourists, sailors often arrived with purpose and were commonly the most welcome of outsiders.

The famed Lahaina Yacht Club, host of the Victoria to Maui race and open to all visiting yachtsmen, was as unpretentious as there ever was a yacht club. It hosted none of the functions that typical yacht clubs host; it had no docks, no sweeping nautical lobby. Accessed through an insignificant Front Street doorway, the private club was disguised so well along retail row that visitors rarely found it on their first attempt. Inside, the dark, narrow hallway was decorated with photographs of classic sailboats finishing the Transpac and Victoria-Maui races, and framed letters from appreciative yachtsmen. A basic waterfront bar hung over the water with an intimate collection of tables. Dangling from the ceiling were burgees from visiting yachts from all around the world; upstairs, the loft had a few tables and backgammon boards. I participated in a couple of the Victoria-Maui races, as well as the dockside parties afterward. The bright-eyed patrons greeted us at all hours like heroes returning from the sea, offering flowered leis for each sailor, champagne, and lots of fresh fruit and pupus.

It’s an ecstatic moment for racing sailors, but cruising sailors wear their hearts on their sleeves and their first landfall is like a first kiss that can never be repeated. It’s a taste of wonder and redemption, almost salvation from any miscues of the passage, and a gratitude for an ocean’s drop of grace. In racing, the motivation is victory, the mission is speed, and glory the reward. While that’s a thrill worth seeking, in cruising, the promise of landfall is all heart.

Coast of Maui with visible coral reef, sailing boats and green mountain on the background. Area of Olowalu, Hawaii

The aching loss for this breathtaking Pacific landfall is that it will never be the same in Lahaina. The sailors will still come, but the landscape and the romantic legacy of a town that was an authentic kingdom’s home, a whaling mecca, a missionary post, and a working blend of tourism and local ohana is gone. What now remains of this legendary alluring paradise is but a barren gray stretch of ashen slabs and ghosts.

The town will be rebuilt and redefined by developers, legal setbacks and the buying power of realtors, but the soul of this Pacific pit stop and the prevailing Hawaiian spirit is at risk. The magic of this mythical landfall will never be quite the same.

Neil Rabinowitz is a longtime and frequent contributor to Cruising World as both a photographer and a writer. His work has appeared in Men’s Journal , Sports Illustrated , National Geographic , Outside , and The New York Times to name a few, and just about every marine publication. He has completed numerous ocean passages on both racing and cruising yachts and often finds inspiration recalling the romance of his first south seas landfall. He lives on a sunny farm on Bainbridge Island in the Pacific Northwest. 

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Hope Rising Lahaina

"We will rebuild. We will return.

Until the day we can welcome you home again, please stand with us in our Hope Rising campaign." - Dave Schubert "Commodore"

About Hope Rising Lahaina

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Photo: CNN News

Aloha and welcome aboard the Hope Rising Lahaina Yacht Club Project. All profits will support the club and the rebuilding of the clubhouse.

Founded in 1965, the Lahaina Yacht Club has been a haven for generations of kama’aina, members, guests, and visitors from clubs around the world. Sailors, fisherman, ocean enthusiasts, and even landlubbers were immediately met with aloha and advised to make themselves at home.

Walking through the saloon doors felt like a journey through history in real-time. The present has destroyed our clubhouse, sailboats, and ocean vessels. However, our future is bright. The members & guests are the heart & soul of our club.

We will rebuild. We will return. Until the day we can welcome you home again, please stand with us by participating in our Hope Rising campaign.

The Lahaina Yacht Club extends to you Mahalo Nui Loa for your kokua and your business.

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Lahaina Yacht Club

Newest Maui Article: Road to Hana

Membership Restaurant at Lahaina Yacht Club

Lahaina Yacht Club is an ocean-side restaurant in the middle of Lahaina.  It’s at:

835 Front Street Lahaina, HI 96761 808-661-0191

About Lahaina Yacht Club

In order to eat at Lahaina Yacht Club (LYC), you must be a member of this club or a member of another yacht club with reciprocity. Membership here costs $500 initiation plus $500 per year dues, and you need to be sponsored by two club members. The only way around those fees is to eat here as a guest of a member, which is the way I got in.  You don’t have to own a boat to be a member.  And there are other benefits for membership besides being able to dine here, such as involvement in yacht races, sailing programs, and the camaraderie of other members.

This restaurant is next door to very similar restaurants with the same oceanfront views along this part of Front Street in Lahaina.  Those others are Kimo’s , Koa’s, and Lahaina Fish Co .  None of those require any membership, so you can eat there without the need to join the Lahaina Yacht Club.

LYC is open for lunch, dinner, and happy hour.  They have prime rib night on Tuesdays and lobster night on Thursdays. The regular lunch menu includes several choices of appetizers, salads, sandwiches, burgers, and entree plates. The dinner menu is longer, with the addition of many full-size meat and seafood entrees, plus several side dishes. At happy hour (3 to 5 PM) there are a few appetizers and snacks, and a different entree for each day of the week.

See below for the Lahaina Yacht Club menu list and food photos.

For reviews, menus, photos of other restaurants on this side of Maui see West Maui restaurants .

Lahaina Yacht Club menu (subject to change)  $$ Moderate

Lunch appetizers.

BBQ Pork Quesadilla Crispy Calamari Fresh Island Ceviche Double Lovin’ Bruschetta Coconut Crusted Shrimp Panko Ahi Roll Habanero Fire Wings Stuffed Mushrooms

Lunch Salads or Wraps

LYC Chinese Caesar Red White & Bleu Southwestern Chopped House

Lunch Sandwiches

Ahi BLT Cilantro Chicken Sandwich BBQ Pork Grilled Mahi Mahi French Dip Reuben Club House Turkey & Bacon

Mushroom & Swiss Volcano Southwestern Plain

Specialties

Fresh Hawaiian Catch Hawaiian Ribs Lemon Caper Mahi Fish & Chips Teriyaki Chicken Fish Tacos

Dinner Appetizers

Dinner salads, dinner meat entrees.

Filet Mignon Sirloin Steak Chicken Marsala Coconut Chicken Baby Back Ribs Beef Stroganoff Burger or Mahi Sandwich

Dinner Seafood Entrees

Honey Lime Ahi Crab Stuffed Mahi Bacon Grilled Scallops Fresh Hawaiian Catch Shrimp Scampi Seafood Brochette

Dinner Sides

Twice Baked Potato Mashed Potato Coconut Ginger Rice Mushroom Risotto Vegetable Du Jour French Fries

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Lahaina Yacht Club

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Published on September 7th, 2023 | by Editor

An Ode to Lahaina

Published on September 7th, 2023 by Editor -->

It was August 8 when fires fanned out across Maui, and a day later when it became known that Lahaina Town, home of Lahaina Yacht Club, had been destroyed. In this report by Neil Rabinowitz for Cruising World, he reflects on the magnitude of this loss:

I came to Lahaina from the south. After 13 days on an unleashed reach out of French Polynesia, I clung to the mast top, my legs wrapped in a death grip. We swung west into Alenuihaha Channel, known to Hawaiians as the river of laughing waters. The sun blazed and the trades howled as 20-foot rollers raced up our stern and frothed over the rails.

Flying our heaviest chute was risky, as the channel boiled with towering whitecaps, but the Beach Boys blared from the deck speakers, and Maui loomed ahead in all its verdant glory. Cobalt-blue waves cascaded on the approaching lava rocks of Kaupo. Hana stood lush to the east, with the Big Island’s Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea silhouetted to the south.

I hadn’t been back to America in years, and I now charged full-tilt—unvanquished from the south seas under a swollen spinnaker, drunk on Brian Wilson. – Full report

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Editor’s note : Lahaina Yacht Club is currently without a clubhouse, but they intend to carry on their activities while seeking to secure a temporary facility and planning for their rebuild. To make a donation, click here .

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Tags: Cruising World , Lahaina fire , Lahaina Yacht Club , Neil Rabinowitz

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The Resilience of Lahaina Yacht Club: Building from the Ashes

Key points:

  • The feature article reflects on the loss of Lahaina Yacht Club due to the Maui fires
  • Describes the author's journey to Lahaina and the beauty of the surrounding area
  • Highlights the efforts of Lahaina Yacht Club to rebuild and seek temporary facilities

An Ode to Lahaina reflects on the devastating loss suffered by Lahaina Town and the Lahaina Yacht Club in the recent wildfires that ravaged Maui. Author Neil Rabinowitz shares his personal experience sailing into Lahaina and admiring its beauty before the tragedy struck. Despite the destruction, the club remains determined to rebuild and continues its activities in the short term while seeking a temporary facility. Readers are encouraged to make donations to support the recovery efforts. The article is published on Cruising World.

The summary of the linked article was generated with the assistance of artificial intelligence technology from OpenAI

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An Ode to Lahaina

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The soul of Russia in a fur hat

By Nora Fitzgerald

  • Nov. 27, 2004

MOSCOW — In Russia, bigger is always better and hats are no exception.In this monumental place, a fur hat is the one accessory that is most emblematic of the sweeping epic that is Russia.

Many foreigners who are anti-fur when they arrive leave with a spectacular piece of animal on their head.

The problem for hat shoppersis not so much that they can get taken— most can afford a little price gouging from a hard-working babushka. The problem isunderstanding the meaning of hats.

Women who are old enough can rememberthat there were very few ways for women to create a distinct look in Soviet times. One way was the fur hat, and women saved and scrimped to have hats custom made of muskrat, mink or arctic fox.

When two Russians argued, foreign diplomats knew ahead of time who would win an argument — the one with the bigger hat. And when a student had a chance to go abroad to Hungary or Czechoslovakia during the Communist period and needed a bit more cash, she had a good cry and sold her custom-made fur hat, one that sometimes never left the shelf but was taken out for guests to admire and promptly put back.

Some say the Russian fur trade never recovered from the introduction of heating on the Trans-Siberian Railway — imagine nine days to Vladisvostok without heat — but it’s not true.

But Russia, along with China, is still the largest consumer of mink, fox and other furs, according to trade associations. What Russians have now that they didn’t have before is choice.

Take the Russian Fur Company in Moscow, a 73-year-old firm with a boutique on the factory grounds.

"Twenty years ago, the Russian Fur Company was a monopoly fur factory," said Valeria Poryvkina, general director. "In 1987, we produced five million fur hats and four million fur collars."

Today the company, which is located at Ulitsa Dokukina 10, is smaller, but it has found a new niche as the provider of fur coats to the middle class. "Eighty thousand people walk in here every year," said Poryvkina. "And they are not wealthy."

The director recalls the days when fur hats were the symbol of a woman’s prestige. "A family could be having hard times, and they could be living from one paycheckto another. The woman in the family still had to have a golden ring, and an oversized mink hat," Poryvkina said. "Russians still have a special attitude toward furs because of the cold and the tradition, and today it can manifest itself in extravagant forms."

One can choose from more than 400 types of hats at the Russian Fur Company, from soft, sapphire mink berets to an exact retro replica of the actress Barbara Brylska’s over-the-eyes fox hatin the Russian film classic "The Irony of Fate."

More exclusive fur hats can be found in the fur boutiques of a few of Russia’s more acclaimed designers. The Moscow and St. Petersburg fashion scenes are nascent but developing quickly, and fur is, of course, a favorite material.

For exclusive, one-of-a-kind couture-culture hats in Moscow, visit the boutique of Irina Tantsurina on Ulitsa Bolshaya Nikitskaya 24/1, or the boutique called "Russkiye Mekhoviye Traditsii," or Russian Fur Traditions, at Orlikov Pereulok 5.

The price of the hats varies with the fur. Rabbit hats are still the most popular Russian hat, especially in the provinces, according to Poryvkina, and they are priced at less than $30. But the fashionistas of Moscow eschew the rabbit, more often coveting the mink and the fox, which carry price tags of at least several hundred dollars.

There are many furriers in town, but foreigners often go to the famous Izmailovo Market, locatednear the Izmailovo metro station, to find their first fur hats. It is a uniqueexperience, a fairy-tale bazaar where one can barter — bring a Russian speaker —and buy cheap matryoshka dolls, hand-knit cashmere shawls, carpets, Uzbek pottery and hand-painted furniture from Dagestan.

Longtime vendors at the entrance show foreigners how to comb the mink hats to see if the fur is well attached to the skin.More dubious sellers walk around with hats in their bags and undercut their competitors. The disadvantage to the market is that customers often never know where the fur comes from or if it is well treated. Unlike the stores, there are no returns if the skin cracks or the fur molts.

It is the place to buy your first but not your most sophisticated hat.Fur stores are more likely to be able to tell you where and how your hat was made.

Buying a fur hat can be daunting. Many foreigners still buy a rabbit hat at Red Square and there is nothing wrong with that, but do remember that rabbit will rarely impress a Russian and it will molt when the hat becomes wet. (Furriers advise not to wear any kind of fur hat in the rain, but wet snow should not be a problem.)

The rabbit hats, which can be purchased for less than $30 at Ismailovo, work best for men and for ertswhile vegetarians, because rabbit is at least farther down the fur chain.It is important to note that while most hats have ear flaps, you won't see a Russian man in Moscow with the ear flaps down until the thermometer is far below freezing.

For those foreigners who want to go all the way with fur, Russia is the place to experiment.

Custom-made fur hats, collars and coats are common and there is no such thing as political correctness.Fur is function as well as fashion and this becomes more the case the deeper into the country you travel. The anti-fur movement simply has no clout here.

Nora FitzGerald is a freelance journalist based in Moscow.

[Not to be reproduced without the permission of the author.]

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Restaurant-Yacht Chaika

Ratings and reviews, location and contact.

Pleasantly surprised, service is good so is the food. Great selection of Fusion food, a mixture of Italian, Japanese, European, Asian etc. A pleasantly nice dining experience, highly recommended, a must try!

Thank you for your feedback and invite you to have lunch or dinner again aboard the ship in an atmosphere of high standards of yacht hospitality.

everything was perfect - the food, the service, the desserts were the best, nice atmosphere and the location - magical

Best food, best view in Moscow. absolutely faultless from arrival to finish. Best risotto i had for many years absolutely perfectly cooked. The view on Ukrainian hotel and the white house by night is amazing

Had to wait for the food for 1.5 hours and then another 20 minutes for the check. Finally called for the manager and he offered... a 10% discount as a compensation. Simply pathetic! The food is mediocre at best. Not bad per se, but one... would expect something better considering the prices. There are many places to eat in area that are much better. Avoid this one at all costs. More

Hello, Alexander Your comment is extremely important for us, thank you a lot for it. We are terribly sorry for your time that you`ve spent waiting your order and we have already taken actions to improve quality of our service and it would be realy... More

Food is very expensive,very pretentious, doesn't worth that money. Portions are very small. We ordered ravioli and there were 4! Four raviolis! For almost 15 euros. Then we asked to bring us dessert menu but nothing, they didn't even bothered, so we payed and left... without dessert. Very poor service for that price. More

This is a very good restaurant. The food is really good, maybe the best in Moscow. The service is also good. The view from the restaurant is great. The prices are very high.

I often visit this restaurant and must say it’s one of the best in Moscow in terms of quality and service. Staff really try hard to make sure that you are happy and satisfied. Customer service is a huge problem in Moscow but Chaika sets... a great example for others in the industry! Food is delicious and the menu has lots of options for everyone! Atmosphere is great and view is beautiful on the embankment. Special thanks to German & Oleg! More

Thank you for your feedback! Again aboard the yacht restaurant "Chaika" in accordance with the high standards of yacht hospitality.

Highly recommended, great location in the city center of Moscow with a superb atmosphere. Too many menu choices, though all delicious!

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Thx a lot for your review! We are looking forward to see you in our restaurants.

Visited this lovely restaurant with a friend of mine. It was relaxingly warm August evening - so the place on the river seemed like a good idea. We came quite early and the restaurant was not full. The hostesses kindly offered several places to sit... and we chose to sit on the sofas. We had some wine, which was good. We struggled a bit when deciding about the food as few options (scallops) were not available. Fish on ice on display did not look very fresh. To be honest it was an unusually hot August and it is probably understandable that some see food options were not available. However, we did manage to order something and sat waiting and looking onto the river. My long-legged friend struggled sitting at the low sofa and the manager noticed that, offering as a very good, proper table beside the open window. It was nice touch and I was very pleased by their polite observations and immediate reaction to solve the problem. Food was quite good and presentation was perfect. Perhaps I can something about the food, but 1 visit is not enough to criticize or make a definitive opinion. Overall, quality place, which of course, does not come cheap. I would recommend this restaurant without hesitation. More

Good afternoon! Thank you for your detailed feedback! We are looking forward to seeing you again, we are sure that you will be delighted with our dishes!

I've been here several times during two business trip in Moscow. The overall quality for both service and food is absolutely top-notch, plus the location is very unique.

Hello! Thank you for your feedback! We are looking forward to visiting again!

Located on a boat at Krasnopresenskaya River Bank this 5 Star Restaurant transforms into a party location due to multiple groups hosting events. Impressive wine selection, Asian and European kitchen...

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Thx a lot! We are waiting for you!

It is a nice place to gather specially at the lounge The service and staff very good I like the river view The food is almost like all restaurants in Russia they serve different cuisine. Staring Russian appetizer till Asian dishes Presentation and taste amazing... I consider it overpriced little bit More

Good location. Nice views. Good choice of food and drinks. European and Asian menu. Nice service. Pricey enough.

Had a large group dinner here. Food was above average and service quite good. The real attraction is the view of Moscow from the river on a nice night. Great place for a larger group dinner. More

Hello, John We are really pleased by reading that you and your friends were satisfied by our service, client`s experience is the highest value for us. We will be happy to see you again, come and enjoy some new dishes from our chef and nice... More

The luxurious atmosphere of this place, the view and the location make it quite outstanding. We had dinner here with friends and the dishes were amazing, accompanied by a chilled bottle of Chablis, it really made me feel as if it was a part of... the classic Russian movie. More

RESTAURANT-YACHT CHAIKA, Moscow - Presnensky - Menu, Prices & Restaurant Reviews - Tripadvisor

  • Service: 4.5
  • Atmosphere: 4.5

IMAGES

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  17. An Ode to Lahaina >> Scuttlebutt Sailing News: Providing sailing news

    An Ode to Lahaina. It was August 8 when fires fanned out across Maui, and a day later when it became known that Lahaina Town, home of Lahaina Yacht Club, had been destroyed. In this report by Neil ...

  18. The Resilience of Lahaina Yacht Club: Building from the Ashes

    An Ode to Lahaina reflects on the devastating loss suffered by Lahaina Town and the Lahaina Yacht Club in the recent wildfires that ravaged Maui. Author Neil Rabinowitz shares his personal experience sailing into Lahaina and admiring its beauty before the tragedy struck. Despite the destruction, the club remains determined to rebuild and ...

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