sailboat companionway steps

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Tartan 30: An Affordable Classic

Ericson 34-2 Finds Sweet Spot

How to Sell Your Boat

Cal 2-46: A Venerable Lapworth Design Brought Up to Date

Solar Panels: Go Rigid If You have the Space…

Leaping Into Lithium

The Importance of Sea State in Weather Planning

Do-it-yourself Electrical System Survey and Inspection

When Should We Retire Dyneema Stays and Running Rigging?

Rethinking MOB Prevention

Top-notch Wind Indicators

The Everlasting Multihull Trampoline

What Your Boat and the Baltimore Super Container Ship May Have…

Check Your Shorepower System for Hidden Dangers

DIY survey of boat solar and wind turbine systems

What’s Involved in Setting Up a Lithium Battery System?

Waste Not is the Rule. But How Do We Get There?

The Scraper-only Approach to Bottom Paint Removal

How to Handle the Head

The Day Sailor’s First-Aid Kit

Choosing and Securing Seat Cushions

Cockpit Drains on Race Boats

Re-sealing the Seams on Waterproof Fabrics

Safer Sailing: Add Leg Loops to Your Harness

Waxing and Polishing Your Boat

Reducing Engine Room Noise

Tricks and Tips to Forming Do-it-yourself Rigging Terminals

Marine Toilet Maintenance Tips

Learning to Live with Plastic Boat Bits

• Sailboat Reviews

Tall-step Syndrome

... and other insults to the aging sailor..

Boat shows present a wonderful opportunity to not only explore boats well beyond your price range, but also to observe how designers answer the many compromises that each boat design requires. Some designs succeed, and some don’t-and often the weak spot is a simple failure to understand the customer.

At last falls U.S. Sailboat Show in Annapolis, Md., PS contributor Drew Frye was sitting in the cockpit of a lovely 50-foot catamaran with eight other mature sailors-all serious lookers whose legs were also throbbing from a long day of walking the miles of exhibit tents and touring many boats. These were sailors who had worked long years to accumulate the scratch to write a check for the $500,000-$1,000,000 that such a boat would cost. All were over 50 years old, most considerably older.

As Fryes eyes wandered around the boat, he saw many potential problems for him and his wife, and nearly all of them were steps. As spacious as this boat was, all of the steps were 16 to 19 inches high-more than double the seven-inch rise in an average stair step. These high steps would be particularly troublesome for his wife, who has a knee replacement and an arthritic ankle. And for the crowd of mostly older visitors who came aboard the catamaran, these steps were clearly difficult to navigate-even at the dock. One can only imagine the sort of obstacle they would present at sea.

Curious, Frye asked for a show of hands among the sailors gathered. How many of you have had either a joint replacement, or have a spouse or parent with a joint replacement or serious joint surgery? Six of the eight hands shot up, and the others said they anticipated surgery in the future.

Frye turned to the catamaran sales people-athletic 30-somethings-and asked, If this is your real demographic-its a long road to save this much money-then why isn’t the boat designed with our knees in mind? Keep in mind, most of us are not buying a boat for today, but for where our bodies will be in five to 10 years.

The salesmen responded with open mouths and no useful answers. The rest of the day, Frye posed the same question to salesmen and designers throughout the boat show, and got variations on the same answer: The reality of boat design requires cramming as much into the available space as possible, and thus a certain athleticism may be required of the crew. Frye accepted that reasoning with regards to pure performance boats-his former boat, a Stiletto 27, had some big steps (even those he modified to suit his familys needs). However, while this kind of compromise is fine for flat-out racers, it makes little sense for a cruising boat. Some designers have listened, and they create step sizes that are reasonable. But they remain the minority.

So what can we do? Between his wifes knee replacement and his own joint problems (he shattered his knee in college), Frye has had to make modifications to several of his boats, most recently a PDQ 32 catamaran. After looking at his own succesful solutions and making an informal survey of the ergonomics aboard boats at the most recent boat shows, he compiled the following report.

Adapting Existing Boats

Before running out to buy a new boat-most older sailors are happy with the boat they have-we should look at little modifications that can make big differences aboard the boats we have. Here are some modifications Frye and others have used to improve onboard ergonomics.

Runt steps: Many helm stations aboard big cats and some monohulls seem to be designed for 7-foot-tall sailors. Men of average height, women, and young sailors generally find their feet swinging comically in the air when they sit at the helm of one of these boats. This gives no leverage for working the wheel unless they sit on the very edge of the bench.

On catamarans, a runt box is a simple solution. The low-profile stool sits at the helm; it has rounded corners that cannot flip, slide, or snag ropes; and it has storage space for cockpit clutter in the hollow. It can be used permanently, or temporarily to check fit until a permanent step can be designed and installed. One of the boats Frye looked at, the very comfortable Antares 44 catamaran, comes with a runt box at the helm that can be customized to the height of the boat owner.

A well-made runt box can also be of assistance when you are getting in and out of the cockpit on a big catamaran. This is often a matter of stepping up onto the seats, and then up onto the deck, two 16- to 18-inch steps in a row. This can be double-trouble for damaged knees and for anyone carrying a heavy load. Fold-down steps can also work for this problem.

Another place where a portable step comes in handy is down below. Because of the way hulls curve, bunks are often set up high to take full advantage of the boats beam. In the case of his own boat, Frye found a custom-fitted sea chest to be a perfect solution, providing just the right step height, a convenient place to store shoes, and a nautical touch.

Hand loops and handholds: Sometimes steps cannot be made shorter, and an extra handrail would get in the way. For these places on board his boat, Frye has crafted some simple grab loops made from 1-inch webbing. He has found these to be better than grabrails because they are high and grip the wrist. They also provide considerable security when descending the stairs in an active seaway. They take no space, cost almost nothing to install, and can easily be stowed, although you could leave them rigged all the time. Frye used sail ties to create his loops during the boats first trip seven years ago. They have remained in use, unchanged, and since then, he has added a few more.

Stainless handholds are often too small in diameter for optimum grip. Wrapped tightly with line, they are more comfortable and secure. Fancy coach whipping is not required, but it does need to be applied very tightly. To make it really tight, don a pair of grippy sailing or gardening gloves, and give the wrapping a couple of hard twists.

Mast steps and companionway ladders: Frye is an enthusiastic climber; he spends summers on rock and winters on vertical ice. Yet, he finds the setups for mast steps and companionway ladders to be a challenge-and has since he was much younger. The norm for these installations seems to be around 15 inches between steps. Frye knew that rock-climbing etriers (tiny webbing ladders used when climbing big walls) are based on 10-inch steps. Why are sailors expected to climb steps so much higher than those designed for super-fit rock climbers?

According to the U.S. Occupational and Safety Health Administration (OSHA), ladder rungs should be 12 inches apart. Clearly when installing mast steps, you want to minimize weight aloft and reduce windage, but you also need to be realistic with the spacing. Companionway steps are also a common challenge. The companionway ladders on many of the boats Frye looked at were no better than his own, which has steps placed 15 inches apart.

Swim ladders also should have reasonable spacing, with at least four steps below the water. The steps should be proper, flat, deep steps (at least 2 inches deep) rather than tubes and railing extensions. A fit sailor can board with a lesser ladder, but when tired or boarding in bumpy conditions, a proper swim ladder will always be appreciated.

Lifeline gates: Stepping over a lifeline to take lines ashore can be treacherous, and stepping over them to board is just silly. Although it is less expensive to keep the lifeline circuit intact, adding additional gates fore, aft, or midships can make a big difference when boarding. One issue to be aware of is that if the stanchions at gates are not braced, you run the risk of creating too much slack in the lifeline when the gate is open. Boarding crew might reach out for the slack lifeline, only to feel it give under their weight. Frye, who added a gate near the bow for taking lines ashore, found that even though he could not brace the gate stanchion, he could lash the upper lifeline down to the stanchion with whipping twine to help keep the stays taught.

When checking out a new boat, your eye is drawn to a graceful sheer, efficient running rigging, and beautiful interiors, but often, not much thought is given to moving around easily. As you move around the boat, imagine yourself dead tired and sore, the decks wet and heaving. What features really matter?

Boarding: Have you noticed that many boats provide boarding platforms at the boat show, even though there will be none in the real world? Wouldnt you find that strange if you were buying a car or a house? Some boats offer easy boarding from a floating dock though opening transoms, but will you want to open the transom every time you board guests? Will you back in that close to the dock? Will stern lines cross right where the transom door will drop?

Then there is the matter of tides at fixed docks. Can you step, not climb, aboard as the boat moves through a 5-foot range? Yes, you can carry portable boarding steps (see Search for Safe Boarding Boost, this issue) on board, but they have to be stored and are not always the most stable climbing platforms-and perhaps none of the crew is spry enough to be in charge of placement and retrieval.

A boarding plank? These have to be well designed and can be difficult to stow (see The Art of the Passarelle, this issue).

Sugar-scoop transoms help if the sides are low, but often, high sides are sculpted for aesthetic reasons; unfortunately, this adds nothing to function and often ruins the easy side-access that sugar-scoop transoms can afford at any state of tide.

Weve also seen perfectly accessible transoms ruined by a fixed railing in the wrong place. Some boats mold steps into the topsides, but most are too shallow to be used by a man with his arms full.

Fryes solution? He bought a boat with sugar-scoop transoms that are easily accessed from the side, so one of the steps is always at the correct height at any state of tide. He devised a small tackle to pull the boat tight to the dock (it is only in place during active boarding). If the dock is slippery, he places either a high-grip mat or a towel, which sometimes grabs the dock better, on the edge of the dock.

Companionway steps: This is an area of common disagreement. People with knee problems often prefer shallower, angled companionway steps, more like a steep staircase, while others believe a steeper ladder is better in a seaway. Additionally, ladders can present a problem when loading supplies on a big boat. The ladders are not safe to descend facing outward, so, on a big boat where the cockpit is not within easy reach of someone standing on the cabin sole, supplies must be passed through the companionway to a partner. Stairs and ladders each have their pros and cons; the important thing is to consider which best meets your and your crews needs, especially while underway in rough conditions, or while loading supplies.

On deck: Can you move everywhere, above and below decks, without letting go of a handhold? Is the handhold a secure, round shape three-quarters to 1-inches in diameter? Will it be slippery when wet? Stainless is more secure when wrapped with leather or line. Be realistic about your hand strength. Is there a good place to run jacklines on deck, free of deck control lines? Are dedicated anchors provided, or can they be easily added? Shouldnt jacklines be incorporated in the basic boat design, like seat belts?

Dinghy boarding: Unless every stop will be at a marina, the mobility-

challenged sailor will find themselves isolated on the boat while the group runs off to play unless there is easy dinghy boarding. Most boats provide no safe facility for the less agile sailor to board a dinghy. Can you imagine a car or home manufacturer expecting you to use a portable ladder every time you entered or exited?

A portable, folding ladder will serve in a pinch, but ideally, a cruising boat should have a fixed swim ladder and solid boarding steps. For those with more significant mobility issues, a proper boarding platform is the best solution. There should be a way to tightly secure the dinghy to the platform and a solid handhold between the dinghy and the platform. Davits and the tackle hanging from them can serve well.

Swim ladders: Swim ladders should always have at least four steps with full treads. Three steps just don’t work for old knees, and tubing is tough on the feet. There should also be handgrips as they come up.

Are these major design challenges? We don’t think so. Some designers get it, and build very accessible boats. Others live in an alternate reality, expecting the buyers to bend to what they are presented, blinded by appearance and overlooking function. Perhaps, if we speak up, more builders will listen.

1. A fixed, high railing on this center-cockpit boat provides security and easy handholds at sea. Notice the cut-away step to get into the high cockpit. The railing can help ease this transition when leaving the cockpit to go forward or aft. 2. Rigid louvers built around saloon windows on this catamaran serve two purposes: They cut down on heat below, and they double as easy steps to get up to the mast, which unfortunately does not have enough flat area for a proper standing workstation. 3. A fixed, centerline dining table and overhead handholds make this boat’s main saloon safe to traverse, even in a seaway. 4. The more open “dance floor” on this cruiser gives crew few places to brace themselves or hold on when moving forward or aft.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

re: Tall-step Syndrome … and other insults to the aging sailor.

would have been interesting to learn the height of the author…. soooo many boats are in fact designed for the short to ultra short , if I hear one more NavArch or broker describe 6’3″ is Cathedral headroom I’ll throttle them. I am 6’5″. The author looks like a typical short man with issues.

Bet you’re fun at parties.

Ergonomics are a complicated issue, with problems for the particularly large or small only being a part. As the article implies, design for the intended users vs. for marketability at the boat show dock.

I can’t help pointing out some oddities in the pictures accompanying the articles. In the set of four under the heading, “50-foot Catamaran Details,” the first and third are clearly a monohull. And, as a former owner of own, I’m pretty sure the second picture is a 42-foot Manta Catamaran. The louvers described as doubling up as steps actually were not engineered to be used as steps. In fact, based on my recollection, I’m pretty sure that the fuzzy rectangle visible in the picture on the left top of the uppermost louver is a sign which reads, “DO NOT STEP HERE.”

Another ergonomic quirk of the Manta was that the companionway door sill was something like 6-8 inches above the cockpit floor but an unexpected 12-14 inch drop on the other side to the salon floor. Just enough to throw you off. Courtesy of the location of the fuel tank.

LEAVE A REPLY Cancel reply

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

Safety At Sea For You & Your Family – The Joe...

What’s The Best Vinyl Window Cleaner for Your Boat?

40-Footer Boat Tours – With Some Big Surprises! | Boat Tour

Electrical Do’s and Don’ts

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Replacing a rotten companionway step

• March 24, 2023

James Wood gets to grips with epoxy when repairing a rotten step support on Maximus's companionway

The newly built companionway step was a like-for-like replacement. Credit: James Wood Credit: James Wood

Our PBO Project Boat Maximus was built 43 years ago, and beautifully built at that.

But, when you come to own a boat that is the same age as you, you accept that not everything is in as good a condition as it once was!

The Maxi 84 had been ashore for nearly two-years at Dell Quay, Chichester, during the Covid pandemic.

In that time, a number of leaks had developed. The companionway hatch cover was ill-fitting and rainwater had found its way in.

The rotten companionway step. Credit: James Wood

My wife, Ali, and I emptied buckets of dirty water out of the lockers, and also discovered that the wood in the companionway steps had rotted.

We got a quote from a woodworker but the timing didn’t work, and we were in a hurry to launch on the next spring tide .

Unfortunately, once we were at Chichester Marina, and had three kids (not to mention several adults) climbing up and down the companionway steps, the structure supporting the top companionway step collapsed altogether!

Preparing the area to fix the companionway step

The existing woodwork had obviously done a good job for a long time, so I resolved to replace like-for-like.

We removed the top step and took it home to replace the plywood facings that had rotted. We also removed the wooden fittings that had failed, and measured up for replacing them.

We covered the companionway and engine with a tarpaulin while the repair was taking place.

The materials and tools are all set out. Credit: James Wood

Access to the companionway was restricted, so any repair would have to be completed using glue. This was also what the original boatbuilder had used.

I managed to narrow the choice down to either a polyurethane wood glue, or a structural epoxy resin and hardener system.

As an amateur DIYer, I was leaning towards using polyurethane glue, it being for use indoors, and straightforward to apply.

I’d never used epoxy before, and I have to admit I was slightly daunted.

However, when we consulted Laurie Brebner of Marine & Industrial, he told us epoxy was the right glue for the job.

A beginner’s guide to epoxy

Before returning to Maximus in Chichester, I did as much preparation as I could.

I bought a sheet of 12mm marine ply from the local timber yard – then realised I actually needed a 15mm sheet so duly returned it.

With the right wood secured, it was quick and easy to cut out the correct sized sheets for the areas I was replacing in the companionway.

The mixing container and plastic spatula. Credit: James Wood

We also got in touch with David Johnson at Wessex Resins, who kindly supplied us with West System 105 epoxy resin and 205 hardener.

He also offered to come down and demonstrate but the September fuel crisis (where pumps ran dry) put an end to that visit.

Fortunately, West System has excellent video tutorials on the topic for people getting started.

The contact surfaces sanded and degreased. Credit: James Wood

First I cleaned the area I was going to be working on, before giving it – and the replacement plywood – a light sanding.

This is to maximise the adhesion of the epoxy system. West System epoxy works best with their pre-calibrated pumps, which deliver the resin and hardener in the correct proportions.

I had installed these, and primed both the resin and hardener pumps during my dry run the day before.

The epoxy has a short working life once mixed with the hardener (about 20 minutes, depending on the working temperature) so it’s important to be organised before you start work!

Applying the epoxy system

Using a plastic mixing tub and spatula, I mixed a couple of pumps of the resin and hardener, before priming all the contact areas by applying a thin coat of the mixed epoxy with a 1in brush.

The next stage was the one I was most concerned about; adding a third component into the mix, the filler.

The filler is used to thicken the epoxy resin mix when creating a bond between two surfaces.

Preparing filler to thicken the mix. This is approximately 1:1 with epoxy. Credit: James Wood

We were using wood, and wouldn’t have any visibility of the contact area, so gap filling would be impossible without creating a thicker mix than the 105 and 205 system creates in isolation.

The idea is that once the two bits of wood were lightly clamped together, the thickened epoxy will be squeezed into any gaps or irregularities, to create a more consistent join and a stronger bond.

Continues below…

Boat wood: a complete guide for yacht owners

Boatbuilder and finisher Lyndon March explains which types of wood work best for different repairs and modifications on board

How to service a marine diesel engine in 12 simple steps

It was time to service the marine diesel engine on our Maxi 84 cruiser. Knowing how to diagnose and fix…

Boat rewire tips: How we completely rewired the PBO Project Boat

Our marine surveyor Ben Sutcliffe-Davies switched on the instruments of our Maxi 84, Maximus, and I held my breath. Nothing.…

New electronics on the PBO Project Boat

The day was approaching for Maximus’s shakedown cruise, a two-day voyage from Chichester to her new home at Cobbs Quay…

This time, I used three pumps of both the resin and the hardener, mixed them for two minutes, then added roughly the same amount of West System 403 microfibre adhesive filler.

I was nervous about this step in the process because the thickened epoxy is harder to work with, and coupled with the short working life before curing,

I only had one chance to get it right! I used a plastic spatula to apply the thickened mix to the contact areas of the replacement wooden part that I had created the previous day.

Positioning the replacement support and applying tension with a strap. Credit: James Wood

Once I was happy with the coverage, I moved the part into place and clamped it lightly using a car roofbar tensioner strap.

I had intended to use a couple of G clamps, but I didn’t have any to hand, so the tensioner would have to do.

Fortunately, it served its purpose and excess epoxy mix was visibly squeezed from the joint.

Excess epoxy was removed from the surface of the new companionway step with a spatula…Credit: James Wood

As this was a load bearing part, I wanted to create as strong a bond as possible, so I used the excess epoxy to create a bead at the join between the replacement wood and the existing companionway structure.

Reversing the West System spatula, I ran the rounded, bevelled end along the bead to squeeze it into a more concentrated joint, and supposedly a neater joint… though in my case the joint wasn’t all that neat!

Putting it to test

The guidance from West System was to let the new joint cure for 24 hours before use.

I live a couple of hours from Chichester, so I wasn’t able to return until a week later, but when I did it was with a burly test team!

… and was then used to create a beaded joint for extra strength. Credit: James Wood

I’m pleased to say the top companionway step took my 14-stone frame without any problems, and was happy to also deal with the visit of our electricians and others to the boat.

At the end of a day of comings and goings, I was happy to declare my first trial of West System epoxy a success.

Epoxy system care

There was a significant amount of the epoxy left after completing my job, so I looked into how to best store it.

We were hoping to sail Maximus back to Poole in the coming weeks, so it was unlikely I’d need it any time soon.

The companionway step is now ready to support Gilbert Park and other crew on the delivery voyage to Poole. Credit: James Wood

West System recommends removing the pump system if storing unused for three months or more, so I did that, pumping any unused product out.

I then sealed the cans with the original lids. The epoxy system was easy to use and effective. I’ll use it without hesitation next time.

■ Thanks to Wessex Resins, wessexresins.co.u k

Enjoyed reading Replacing a rotten companionway step?

A subscription to Practical Boat Owner magazine costs around 40% less than the cover price .

Print and digital editions are available through Magazines Direct – where you can also find the latest deals .

PBO is packed with information to help you get the most from boat ownership – whether sail or power.

• Take your DIY skills to the next level with trusted advice on boat maintenance and repairs
• Impartial in-depth gear reviews
• Practical cruising tips for making the most of your time afloat

Follow us on Facebook , Instagram and Twitter

• Social Wall
• Getting Started
• Terms & Conditions
• Privacy Policy
• Contact+Form
• Opt-out from Email Notifications
• Profile Image/Avatar
• Profile Account Information
• Privacy Settings: General
• Privacy Settings of Friends Photos Videos Groups
• Privacy Settings of Emails/Notifications
• Delete Account
• My Friends List
• My Friend-Requests Pending
• Friend Requests Pending My Approval
• My Sailing Events
• My Groups/Teams List
• My Groups/Teams Pending Invites
• My Groups/Teams Updates
• About My Ads
• My Private Messages Inbox
• My Private Messages Sent
• View Notifications

Login to your account

Password reset.

• Add as Friend
• Sailing Photos
• Sailing Videos Gallery
• Send Private Message
• Followers 10
• Following 6

Deck fittings and companionway steps; Building a cruising sailboat - SV...

• Page Videos
• Event Videos
• Group Videos
• View All Sailing Videos

Description

• BOAT OF THE YEAR
• Newsletters
• Sailboat Reviews
• Boating Safety
• Sailing Totem
• Charter Resources
• Destinations
• Galley Recipes
• Living Aboard
• Sails and Rigging
• Maintenance
• Best Marine Electronics & Technology

Building a New Sailboat Companionway Door

• By Roger Hughes
• Updated: September 25, 2019

For some time I had planned to repair and modify Britannia’s front door, or to use the more-correct nautical term, companionway. The hatch housing leaked, al- lowing rainwater to seep into the plywood sliding top and causing it to delaminate. My wife and I were also heartily fed up with the two heavy washboards used to close the opening. When in place, the two teak boards completely blocked all light through the entrance.

First the hatch-housing leaks needed sealing, then the hatch itself needed to be repaired. I also had an idea about how to be rid of the horrible washboards and improve the actual companionway access.

Sealing the cracks in the large teak housing was easy enough. I sanded off all the old varnish, filled the cracks, and then rolled on four coats of Cetol Marine Natural Teak from Interlux paints. The Natural Teak is a brownish color, and I think it enhances the deep color of teak. More important, by not sanding be- tween coats, it created an excellent nonslip surface in an area where I frequently stand when working at the mast.

The large sliding hatch had been built as a permanent structure. By that, I mean it could not be taken out with- out one side of the slider guides first being removed. It came as no surprise to find the guides weren’t just fastened with self-tapping screws like 90 percent of the rest of the boat, but rather they were bolted through the fiberglass deck with 1⁄4-inch bolts, whose nuts were encapsulated in the fiberglass underside.

Down below, I had to re- move part of my new saloon ceiling panels to be able to chisel the resin off around the nuts before I could hold them with vice grips to unscrew them.

To make matters more challenging, the hatch frame was built to where I couldn’t reach all the fasteners, so I had to cut the guide in half with my oscillating saw before I was able to lift the hatch completely out. Who was it who said, “Working on boats, one job leads to another”? Oh yes, it was me!

I lugged the deceptively heavy hatch to my garage workshop, where I dismantled it by drilling out all the wood- en plugs and withdrawing the long stainless self-tapping screws holding the four sides to the top.

The top was made of 1/2-inch marine plywood with another 1/4-inch teak-faced plywood sheet glued on top. The layer of teak had rotted and was beyond repair, but the 1/2-inch- thick base was still good, except for some delamination around the edges. I wanted to reuse it to save having to curve a new sheet into the same shape. Using screwdrivers as levers, I pried open the damaged edge laminations, one edge at a time, then squirted wood glue into the seams. I then clamped the panel in my woodworking bench vice and left it overnight.

The next question was what to replace the rotten wooden top with?

Having dismantled the hatch, I made short work of the flaking varnish on the sol- id teak sides and stringers with my belt sander.

I then took all the parts back to the boat because I wanted to see if it was possible to make the hatch slide farther into the housing, to give more companionway headroom. I also wanted to sand and varnish the companionway surround, which was now much easier to get to with the hatch removed.

By trial and error, I found I could cut 2 inches off the back of the hatch so it would slide that much farther into the housing, and provide more headroom when descending or ascending the ladder. The hatch was then carted back to my workshop for modification, reassembly and final finishing.

At Lowe’s I bought a sheet of fiberglass paneling made by Crane Composites (cranecomposites.com). It’s a little more than 1/8-inch thick but very strong and completely water- proof and mold-proof. One side is dimpled and the other smooth, so I used the smooth side uppermost to match the surrounding deck. This would waterproof the top and prob- ably be stronger than the original plywood. I glued the fiberglass sheet to the plywood using Loctite Power Grab adhesive, a type of waterproof glue suitable for fiberglass and wood. After the glue set, I trimmed the new top flush with the edges of the renovated underpanel.

Luckily, the underside of the original 1⁄2-inch plywood panel that I was able to reuse had a teak-veneered face, so I care- fully sanded this before reassembling the hatch.

I reattached the hatch trim pieces with waterproof wood-working glue and fastened them using the same stainless screws I’d taken out. The original assembly appeared not to have been glued, which I think allowed water to eventually seep into the end grain of the plywood. With its fiberglass top and glued sides, that won’t happen again.

Completing the job required quite a bit of finishing off by hand. I sanded the side trim flush with the new top, and then glued 28 teak plugs into the screw holes and sanded them flush. As an added touch, I ran a molded edge along both sides of the top using my hand router.

After masking the top panel, I applied a coat of Cetol NaturalTeak to the sides.Then I turned the hatch over and rolled Cetol on the teak underside. I then applied three coats of Cetol gloss all over, rubbing down between coats with 250-grit sandpaper. This produced a beautiful glossy finish that further enhanced the appearance in the saloon when the hatch was closed.

The finished hatch sat in my workshop for a week while the Cetol hardened, and I sanded and varnished the remainder of the teak surrounds framing the companionway.

When everything was thoroughly dry, I simply lifted the hatch back into the left-side guide and refitted the right guide—but this time I used 1⁄4-inch stainless self-tapping screws to fasten it to the deck, bedding it with 3M 5200 adhesive caulk. This will be more than adequate, since the guides carry no load, just acting as guides for the hatch. I filled the screw holes with 1⁄2-inch teak plugs, and the hatch was finished.

Next up: Make new weather doors.

Originally the companionway had two large sol- id-teak washboards, which stacked one on top of the other in slots. As I said, they were heavy and cumbersome, and my wife could hardly handle them. Then, when they were out, there was nowhere to store them in the cockpit.

The washboard concept is part of a traditional design, which hypothesizes that if a giant wave floods the cockpit, the boards would stop water from entering the saloon. That, of course, presupposes the boards would actually be in place. In practice, they are nearly always removed when we’re aboard because they completely prevent access to and from the cockpit. For a short-handed crew, I consider semipermanently closing off the companionway in this way to be actually dangerous, because it effectively prevents quick access, both in and out. Also, the prospect of a total cockpit flooding is remote, especially on a center-cock-pit boat like Britannia , with its high freeboard and coamings that are 7 feet above the waterline.

I used the 3⁄4-inch solid-teak boards to make two doors, which I hung with piano hinges on either side of the companionway. One side locks with a sliding bolt into the bottom sill, and the other with a heavy deadbolt into the solid beam of the sliding hatch. We can now easily close one door, or both, as we wish. To complete the job, I bought two oval glass panels of light- houses from amazon.com, and recessed them into each door, adding a touch of elegance when daylight filters through.

In addition to now having a waterproof companionway hatch, the refurbished entrance presents a very classy appearance. It’s our new “front door”.

Roger Hughes is a dedicated do-it-yourselfer and a frequent Hands-On Sailor contributor.

Supplies and Costs:

• Cetol Natural Teak: Johnstown Distributors, $30
• Fiberglass panel: Lowe’s, $39.20
• Adhesive: Lowe’s, $7.99
• Piano hinges for doors: Lowe’s, $15
• Oval glass inserts for doors: amazon.com , $85
• Total: $177.19
• More: hatches , How To
• More How To

How to Protect Your Spars from Corrosion

Sailing totem refit series: the forward head makeover, fatty goodlander: dealing with chafe while cruising, how to rig everything in your favor, route planning in the face of climate change.

• Digital Edition
• Customer Service
• Privacy Policy
• Email Newsletters
• Cruising World
• Sailing World
• Salt Water Sportsman
• Sport Fishing
• Wakeboarding

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• About The Boat
• Gear & Maintenance
• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Non skid on companionway steps?

• Add to quote

The nasty plastic non-skid that had been stuck to the companionway steps has started to come off, so I took it off completely. Noticed that what Bristol seem to have done, is leave the leading edge of the steps in raw teak, unvarnished. The rest is varnished. What's your preferred approach to making them non-slippery?  

My boat came with varnished teak steps with grooves cut in. After my wife slipped on them and fell down into the cabin injuring her back, I put 3M non-slip tread on them. Two years and its holding up nicely. An replacing it when it starts to look shabby will be easy and inexpensive.  

I use stick on non-skid material from the hardware store, cut to fit. Made to be used for homes outside steps.  

JimsCAL, Is that the adhesive tape you are referring to, or something else?  

MarkSF said: JimsCAL, Is that the adhesive tape you are referring to, or something else? Click to expand...

I used similar stick-on material (for bathtubs as I remember) that I cut in strips to fit between the grooves on the steps of my Bristol. After attaching I put a coat of varnish over everything so that they appear a light tan color and blend in well. Been working great for several years.  

How bout some silica sand mixed with varnish good and grippy.  

Rustoleum has a good nonslip additive in their marine line it mixes evenly and resists settling in the pot. Thinkitmight work very well with a satin urethane varnish...  

I use the 3M white non-stick sold on a roll at West. I found an equivalent in brown on-line.  

I use the black version.  

WRe: Non skid on companionway steps? Our non skid is in the mold - never comes off  

Is the non skid tape hard on bare feet?  

Nope.  

Non-skid versus bare feet or flesh: The better the non-skid, the more flesh it will take off. The 3M tape (Treadmaster?) works nicely and any janitorial supply or hardware store should carry it, or a similar product. There's also fine grained sand sold as non-skid additive to basement and floor paint, if you'd rather paint or varnish. Any of these "sand" type non-skids should be fine on bare feet.  

• ?            
• 174K members

Top Contributors this Month

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

Companionway step

• Thread starter Joe11688
• Start date May 10, 2007
• Oday Owner Forums
• Ask An Oday Owner

Since I've owned my O'Day 222, I've done a lot of modifications to it. Some of them were stolen from someone else, but I'm proud to say that this detachable companionway step is one of my own "Brain children". I used cheap pine to make a mock up version of the step before I made the final version with Teak. I don't remember exactly how I constructed it, but the first thing I did was remove the step from the fiberglass mounts. Then, I needed to do something to make the step fit into the mount, somehow. So, I cut out two small "D" shaped blocks of wood to fit into the mounts. A definite shape of block allows the step to fit one way only. I finally cut out these blocks of wood from 1 3/4" thick Teak, and the rough dimensions are, 3" X 1 1/2" Next, I used the blocks to trace a pattern on the fiberglass mounts. Then I cut the fiberglass out to receive the blocks. That step takes a lot of guts because there's no turning back. I probably marked the center of the step and block prior to attaching the blocks to the step. I reached in through the Starboard Settee and held the block up against the bottom of the step inside the mount, checked the alignment of the step and block, and drill my first hole through the top of the step into the block. Then, I did the same thing to the other side of the step. After I knew that everything was going to fit, I drilled and countersunk two more holes on each side of the step for wood screws. What really makes this step very stable is the two pieces of wood that I attached to the Fiberglass mounts under the step. For this step, I used a bevel to get my angles. I took a couple of pieces of small plywood and used these inside of each mount to attach these pieces of wood to the mount with wood screws. I bought some Stainless Steel adjustable hold-downs to make this step nice and stable and tight to the mounts. I added pieces of 1 3/4 inch thick Teak to the step and kind of winged it as I went along, and to my surprise, it came out better than I expected. The two pieces of Teak that run perpendicular to the under side of the step measures 8" X 1 3/4". The pieces of wood attached to the mounts measure about; 4 5 1/16" X 5 1/4" x 1 1/8" thick. The other two that are screwed to those for the Stainless Steel hold-down measures about; 5 1/4 x 2 1/2" x 3/4" thick Teak. The countersinks that I made were 3/8, and I finally got around to buying the 3/8 inch bungs to fit in them. This is a modification worth doing if you ever had to get a 48 quart cooler in behind that step. Now,--all I do is remove the step, and drop my 50 quart cooler right in from the front. No more moving the Starboard settee mattresses and sliding it in from the side. "Easy, is always better." that's what I always say! The Teak that I used for this project, was bought used at a marine consignment store. It was cheaper to buy it that way. That's why I had all these odd thicknesses of Teak on hand, but you could use any type of wood that you wish.  In building this companionway step, you may have to wing it a little bit like I did, in trying to construct it. Try to make the support boards that are attached to the mounts under the step, as wide as the bottom of the fiberglass mounts, to insure a stable step. I'm not sure what I used to cut out the fiberglass. I may have used a Dremel Tool with a cutting wheel, or a Saber Saw, but whatever works for you is what to use. I've submitted this project to the Knowledge base on this site for anyone who is interested in tackling this project. Good luck with it!Joe  

Attachments

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…