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Products for your S2 6.9

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S2 7.9 Sailboat Sails and Parts

Image: Karen Banks.

S2 7.9 after complete deck restoration, new standing and running rigging and new sails.

Unbridled Sailing has been active in the 7.9 fleet for years. The boats are a great mix of portability, interior space, and sailing performance. For this reason the over 30 year old design is still popular with sailors of all levels. The Tiara factory in Holand, MI pumped out 545 of these boats in 2 runs. Since thier numbers are limited, owners are always finding old hulls and rebuilding them. Unbridled Sailing recently completed a complete restoration of #497. The deck was soft and everything needed to be replaced from sitting outside in NJ winters for 10 years. The story of that project can be found here.

MXL Mainsail Black Technora or Gold Kevlar $

We reccomend a flicker with this main, as it is built to class max.

(2 full battens, 2 tapered partial battens, roll bag, Numbers, Insignia)

MXL Genoa Black Technora or Gold Kevlar with numbers and deck bag $

MXL Jib (black or gold) with 3 horizontal battens, deck bag. $

Backstay setup complete

Epoxy powedercoated backstay flicker (Stiff and coated for long life)

All prices include shipping to anywhere in the continental US.

If there are other parts you need, Unbridled Sailing is a Harken and Lewmar Dealer, and we know the S2 7.9in and out.

© 2008 - 2015 Unbridled Sailing

Photos © Marc Crutcher

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S2 10.3 - replacement parts for entryway

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Hello: I recently purchased a 1984 S2 10.3 and the tracks for the sliding "roof" should be replaced. The TX sun has made the plastic brittle and the track is cracked in several places. Does anyone have an idea where I could purchase replacement tracks? Are they standard parts used by S2/ Tiara and available through their suppliers? I plan to contact Tiara as well for leads but any help would be appreciated.  

You cannot but these tracks from S2. They are made from Starboard plastic and what you do is buy a suitable piece and using a table saw or similar, shape to the desired size. Here is a link to one source, I have to do the same thing this fall. http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/king_starboard.htm#King Starboard Colors & Sizes Gary  

Tiara has extrusion available for sliding hatch Gary: Here's the message I received from Scott at Tiara Parts/ Service. They have plenty of the materials available. On 9/11/07 3:08 PM, " Parts " <[email protected]> wrote: Good Afternoon: You are in luck, I still have some of the extrusion 542019 in stock. It's sold by the foot at $8.76 per foot, you'll have to cut to exact fit at the boat. Let me know if you would like to order (we accept MC, Visa, Amex, and Discover, and need the card's exp date and CVV code to process). And also - how many feet you need. Best Regards, Scott Bytwerk Supervisor, Tiara Yachts Parts Dept 725 E 40th St Holland MI 49423 USA phone 616-394-7492 fax 616-394-4627  

Thank you I will check into that. Not sure if there is a 10.3 web site but there is a 9.1 that you can get some usefull information from. Just google S2 9.1. Gary  

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• Sailboat Reviews

The biggest of the S2 series was offered in two layouts. The center-cockpit version is a bit ungainly looking, but offers a lot below, and like her sister is well-built. Both versions have held their value.

Leon Slikkers is a boatbuilding legend. Chris Scott, who has worked with him for over three decades, knows the story well:

“Leon grew up on a farm in Michigan. I doubt he ever saw the ocean. What stood out then, as it does now, was his craftsmanship and ingenuity. For instance, he made his own tractor from used car parts. After the war he left the farm and went to work for Chris Craft [in Holland, Michigan]. He had a good job running the shop that made hard tops, but , even with a mortage and a young family to feed, he decided to go out on his own. ‘I can build a better boat.’

“He began in his garage, building 15- and 17-foot runabouts. From there he grew Slickcraft until AMF came and bought it  in the early ’70s. The sale included a non-competition agreement for five years.

“Slikkers couldn’t sit on his money, though, so in 1973 he started S2 to build sailboats. Building on the niche that he’d established in powerboats, his original aim was a series of ‘well-detailed, nicely built, high-quality trailerables.'”

Along with the differences between sail and power, Slikkers ran into the problems of pushing premium products in a price-competitive arena. “And those early boats weren’t wonderful,” Scott says. “The joke was that S2 stood for “slowly sideways. They weren’t very salty looking, either.”

Slikkers, however, was a quick study. By the late ’70s the company had developed a full series of cruising auxiliaries. The new boats continued the Slikkers attention to detail and solid craftsmanship. Sailing performance and styling were improved, and the second wave of S2 sailboats helped people forget the ugly ducklings.

The Slikkers story continued. The “third wave” was a successful foray into high-performance boats, with the Graham & Schlagater-designed Grand Slam series—7.9 meter, 9.3, and 10.1. (The 7.9 was twice MORC National champion.) Then, in the early ’80s, Slikkers read the shrinking sailboat market and returned to building powerboats—this time the Tiara series. He retooled twice for limited orders from established sailboat classes (a fleet of 7.9s was wiped out in a hurricane, for instance) but abandoned sailboats for good in 1986.

Tiara (along with its companion line, Pursuit) still thrives. From Holland the company has grown to encompass plants in Florida and North Carolina. Leon’s sons, David and Bob, are at the helm, but Leon continues to maintain an office in the Holland plant and is “more active than you can imagine,” says Scott. Along the way he managed to acquire the assets of his original Slickcraft company at a fraction of the price that he was originally paid for it.

Introduced in 1977, the S2 11.0 reflects the maverick disposition of her makers, the quest for a better mousetrap, and the market savvy of a successful entrepreneur. She was built in both aft and center cockpit versions (roughly 160 of each type were sold). She has weathered the intervening quarter century well. The owners we queried were universally upbeat about her durability and sailing ease.

Design Often credited to the “S2 Design Team,” the 11.0 was actually designed by Arthur Edmunds. A veteran of the sailboat projects initiated by Chris Craft in the late ’60s (Commanche, Apache, et al), Edmunds was called upon by Slikkers to draft the lines for his cruisers. Largest of the bunch, the 11-meter was to combine modern sailing performance, an attractive layout, contemporary styling, and meticulous construction. Says Scott, “Leon left Arthur’s lines alone below the water, but the ‘team’ concept came from the fact that he had tremendous influence on everything else.”

Perhaps the best way to describe the 11.0’s sailing characteristics is “straight down the middle.” In an era when IOR bulges and bumps were visible even on cruising boats, Edmunds opted instead, in almost all cases, for “the mean.” Her 11′ 11″ beam is substantial, but it’s regular and fairs nicely into waterlines that give her a symmetrical “footprint” or waterplane, meaning that as she heels, her shape in the water is only minimally distorted. This is one of the sources of her light, mannerly helm.

She has the sailplan proportions of her day—masthead rig, small main, overlarge foretriangle. Modern cruisers have come to appreciate larger, controllable mainsails and smaller, more easily handled headsails, but that’s not a combination you’ll easily find in boats of her vintage.

It’s hard to recall that there was a day when all sailing controls weren’t led to the cockpit, but the 11-meter was a pioneer in that regard.

The boat has a longish fin keel that strikes a balance between the deeper, thinner foils of today and the full-length keels they’ve evolved from. In order to encapsulate the considerable (6,000-pound) ballast, however, Edmunds was forced to make the keel very thick in section. In addition to adding to parasitic drag the thick keel produces less lift than might a modern NACA-inspired or suitably engineered foil. This all tends to decree middle-of-the-pack performance, especially upwind.

Her rudder is lower in aspect ratio than those that have followed, and it is supported by a vestigal skeg. Both of these factors reduce turning efficiency, but cruisers get some compensating confidence from the protection afforded by the skeg.

Contemporary cruising boats tend to have longer waterlines and stems that are more nearly plumb than the 11-meter. There’s good reason that boats have evolved toward longer waterlines, narrower entries, and flatter waterplanes—they go faster. But yesterday’s cruisers, even yesterday’s “modern” boats like the S2, offer some compensations. Certainly the foredeck on the 11.0 is kept relatively dry by her marked overhang forward. Certainly her look is more balanced and graceful due to her overhangs fore and aft. Her reverse transom works nicely with the rising line of her overhanging counter to form one of the aesthetic achievements of the boat.

In profile we can’t help but wince a bit at her oversized windows. While they certainly make the interior brighter and more habitable, they involve three jumbo-sized cutouts in the cabin trunk—big enough to pose a risk, in our view, in breaking seas. The rest of her styling elements—the marriage between a relatively straight sheerline and a slightly forward-leaning housetop, the stem and stern angles—all work together well.

When Slikkers introduced the 11- meter, the most popular auxiliary in the world over 30 feet was Morgan’s Out Island 41, which at that time was  closing in on 500 sold. Morgan attempted to capitalize on this acceptance with a smaller boat, a 36-footer built around the same open feel, the same center cockpit convenience and aft cabin privacy that made the 41 so popular. Despite being built on the hull of a racing design and being able to sail circles around its larger Out Island cousin, the Out Island 36 didn’t come close to matching the 41’s popularity. Neither did the Out Island 33.

Is a 36-footer too small to be a good aft-cabin cruiser? Not if you’re willing to separate appearance from effectiveness. The center cockpit version of the 11.0 has a very workable layout. Passage fore and aft can be accomplished either through a passageway (with galley ranged outboard) to port or a double-doored head (to starboard). The galley is close to the companionway and in the pitching center of the boat—good for ventilation, communication, and comfort. The saloon is pinched a bit by being shoved forward, but it works. We think it would work even better if the space devoted to a navigator’s electronic center had been minimized to achieve a bit more elbow room.)

Take a look at the two versions in profile, however, and you might have second thoughts. While the aft cockpit 11.0 has a comforting familiarity, the aesthetic adjustments called for to accommodate to the tall and bulging center cockpit boat are major. And, perched way atop the thing at the wheel, how protected, comfortable, and at ease will you feel? We sailed the aft cockpit model, so this is just speculation. Suffice it to say that, in return for the privacy of well-separated cabins and the convenience of sailing the boat from the middle, there are some prices to be paid.

Construction The mid-sized sampling of owners who weighed in on the 11.0 made her durability and sound construction their central theme. Said one owner of  a center cockpit boat,  “On the trip from San Diego to Hawaii we had several days of 12- to 18-foot seas and winds up to 55 knots. The boat handled everything with no problems. We felt very safe.”

Most rate the boat’s strength, quality, and equipment as well above average. “A lot of that,” says Scott, “is the integral keel. Molding the whole boat instead of bolting the keel onto it makes it much stronger.”

The hull is solid fiberglass. The deck is cored with end-grain balsa in the way of the walkways. During the production run of the 11-meter, blisters popped their ugly heads onto the marine scene. Says Scott, “We did a lot of research right away. We had been using vinylster resin from the start. What we wound up doing was replacing the exterior layer of cloth with chopped matt to eliminate the problems caused, we felt, by the binder in the cloth. Up to that point we’d always thought the chopper gun was a quick and dirty tool that we’d never use. We were among the first in the industry to come up with a five-year anti-blister warranty in 1984.” 

Just a single owner in our sample reported blistering. His, he said, “are widely spaced and have shown no change since 1983.”

S2’s hull-deck joint is simple, well-engineered, and has held up well: The hull molding has an inward-turning flange, onto which the deck molding is dropped. The joint is bedded in a flexible sealant, and through- bolted on six-inch centers by bolts passing vertically through the entire height of the slotted aluminum toerail. The joint is also through-bolted across the stem. Deck leaks seem not to be a problem.

The chainplates, however, have been a source of aggravation to several owners. One claims that they must be rebedded every season in order to keep them watertight.

Slikkers designed and made the hatches for the 11.0, rather than buying them from a vendor. From molding the surrounding lip into the deck tooling, to shaping the Lexan, to sizing and making the gasket, developing the sealant, and cutting the teak non-skid strips that guard it, the entire operation was done in-house. “Gelcoat was the premium available,” says Scott. “Our factory was one of the first to be climate-controlled. We pioneered the practice of building the boats in the molds so that they’d have maximum support.”

The 11-meter boats were sold with a variety of engines, including Universal, Volvo, and Yanmar. We saw no engine complaints, with the exception of one Volvo MD 17C (with saildrive) that had problems with overheating until a separate through-hull was installed for raw water intake.

S2s were priced above the market average, but lots of sailors were willing to pay for what they delivered. Praise is not unanimous, however.  Though no one has reported structural problems, one sailor sees the wooden mast step and relative “lack of structural support for the keel-stepped mast” as a potential problem. The recessed grab rail atop the cabin house is also, we noticed, the sort of “finger breaker” design that is neither accessible nor hefty enough to be a useful handhold in a time of genuine need.

Performance The 11.0 displaces 15,000 pounds. That means that she doesn’t get thrown around by the waves. It also means that it takes a lot to get her going. You can make the case that weight and momentum are advantages in a seaway, but our experience, and the evolution of modern cruising design, suggests that the less weight for a given sail power, the more efficient (and certainly the more sprightly) the sailboat. The trend over the quarter century since the 11.0 was designed has been toward lighter and lighter cruisers, and there are few sailors today who feel that adding pounds adds to sailing performance.

The 11.0’s sail area/displacement ratio of 17.2 is moderate, but it’s up against a displacement/length ratio of nearly 300. She has more wetted surface (by something approaching 25 percent) than a typical modern cruiser might. She is, in short, no speed demon. The lighter the breeze and the closer into it the course, the more she tends to suffer for the design trends of her era.

Due to her stability, predictable handling, and ease of maneuvering, though, she can be fun and forgiving to sail. She’s quite stiff, despite the fact that she derives relatively little form stability from her slack-bilged hull. Her T-shaped cockpit, an innovation in its day, limits the size of the wheel (36-inch) so that steering from the rail isn’t comfortable or efficient. The cockpit is not as deep nor the coamings as high as we would like to see on a boat that ventures offshore. The cockpit locker, on the other hand, is big enough to afford access to the port side of the engine, as well as space for generator, watermaker, and plenty of stowage. Furthermore, it’s compartmentalized intelligently.

Accommodations From its oversized (6′ 5″ x 6′ 4″) forward berth to its generous (6′ 5″ x 3′ 9″) quarter berth aft, the S2’s interior is more than a little accommodating. Throw in places to sleep for three more and she truly fulfills the “boat with beds” ideal that was the controlling interior principle in the ’70s and ’80s. But she’s more than a bunkhouse. Her galley, wrapped around a “serve-through counter,” was ahead of its time in terms of function, elbow room, clever use of space, and integration with the rest of the interior.

Using the quarterberth as a seat for the nav table is an acceptable accommodation in a boat this small. A surprisingly large hanging locker, well-finished drawers, and a jumbo head with shower are among the other details that have make the boat livable.

Whether the center-cockpit version “succeeds” in your eyes depends upon the priority you put on sociability belowdecks. The necessary functions—cooking, sleeping, and head-going—receive more space and attention in the twin-cabin set-up. The saloon is nudged forward and made “cozier” in the process—not necessarily a bad thing.

Having separate cabins is a boon for couples that cruise together. If that’s what’s on your mind, the 11.0 offers a boat that’s sized and priced to make double-cabin sailing a reality. One owner, who is 6′ 5″, reports that “I not only have room to stand up and lie down, but in weeks at a time of cruising I’ve never gotten that ‘closed in’ feeling.”

Conclusions Most owners rated the 11-meter’s original equipment as good to adequate. One said, however, “make sure that primary and halyard winches are big enough. My boat had Lewmars that were very undersized. I’ve moved to #43 (primary) and #42 (halyard) respectively.” Another wrote, “The original refrigeration wasn’t adequate for living aboard. We replaced it with Adler Barbour 20 years ago and it’s still going strong.”

Superior gelcoat quality is part of the S2 reputation. Most owners are pleased with the way theirs have held up over the years. While the boats were never built with an epoxy or any other form of barrier coat, the research that Slikkers and company did in the ’80s, and the use of vinylester resin, seems to have yielded hulls that have resisted blistering well.

The boats that Slikkers built, both aft and center cockpit,  are cruisable in the extreme when it comes to accommodation and capability. The more you demand from them in terms of sailing sizzle, the more their slips show, but considering the high level of construction in the hull, deck, and cabinetry, the generally good standard equipment list, and the thoughtful design details throughout, it’s easy enough to see why these boats have held their value over the years. According to the BUC Used Boat Price Guide, a 1981 model S2 11.0 (in both center- and aft-cockpit versions) has a retail value range today between $48,000 and $52,000 (Northeast and Mid-Atlantic region).

There’s a good deal of information on S2 boats on the Web. In particular check the pages at www.angelfire.com/mi/loosecruise/S2/index.html .

Contact – Tiara Yachts, 725 E. 40th St., Holland MI, 49423; 616/392-7163; www.tiarayachts.com .

Also With This Article Click here to view “Owner’s Comments.”

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

I bought an S2 11.0A (36′ aft cockpit) a couple of years ago. I had been looking at a Hunter Cherubini 37′ cutter rigged boat that was said to be the heartist boats built in it’s time, and seemingly blue-water capable. That deal didn’t happen, but a year later I found my 36′ S2 and in researching the vessels specifications, I saw that it wasn’t exactly a blue-water boat, but it definitely fit the mold of a coastal cruiser. 75 galons of water, 50 gallons of fuel, 36hp engine, vestigal skeg rudder and encased lead keel. The quality of construction was noted in most online articles I read; and just as most people said, I wouldn’t find any blistering of the fiberglass on this four-decades old boat, however, up until this past season, I was actually considering painting the hull, the tan gelcoat was chalky and I had always wanted a dark blue hull anyway, but that was before I spent a couple of days polising the gelcoat. The color and shine was restored to that of a much younger boat, doing that and stripping the paint off the teak toerails and oiling them, has gotten me several complments from other boaters. The S2 is shaping up to be the type of boat I’ve always admired, a vessel with classic lines, nice overhangs, moderate freeboard, a heart-shaped transom, with golden-orange teak and stainless steel glistening in the sun. But while some of those items are cosmetic, and while I haven’t been in many wicked conditions yet with this boat, I’ve been in a couple that have proven to me that those old-style overhangs, along with the overall hull shape, is a great design in large swells when winds are high and when you are plowing through oncoming wave-sets that are as close together as possible without breaking over each other. And while the interior isn’t designed with an “open plan” like a modern boat, you do have confidence in rough conditions that you’re not going to be allowed to get very far if the boat makes an unexpected movement when you’ve braced yourself in the galley while making something for the crew. What is also notable is the quality of the interior woodwork. My wife spent a couple of hours treating all the interior teak with lemon oil, which gave the woodwork a fresh luster without feeling oily or tacky. The boat is exceptionaly dry, maybe owing to the care by the single owner the boat had had for nearly 40 years, before us. But I would guess that even through multiple owners, as long as one of them didn’t go “redesigning” the interior, or exterior for that matter, any S2 would still be a boat that is functional and updateable. If you like a more classic looking boat with teak insead of aluminum, formica, or plastic, then this is a boat that was at the top of it’s class for the price at the time, and in my opinion, has aged well as far as design and looks.

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S2 7.3 - Sailboat Data, Parts & Rigging

Sailboat data, rig dimensions and recommended sail areas for S2 7.3 sailboat. Tech info about rigging, halyards, sheets, mainsail covers and more.

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• Sailboat Guide

S2 7.9 is a 25 ′ 11 ″ / 7.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Graham & Schlageter and built by S2 Yachts starting in 1981.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

A few (17) were delivered with a fixed keel and masthead rig. (See S2 7.9FK for specs.) Inboard power available as an option… BMW 7.5 hp diesel.

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