spray hood sailboat

Our sprayhoods are well known for having excellent fit, rigidity and style. By manipulating the shape of the cover panels during manufacture, we create tension to ensure the hood is a whole rigid structure. Additional reinforcement where needed, expert patterning, the latest CAD technology and high quality manufacturing standards all combine to produce the best fitting product on the market.

Upgrades and Additional Options

Osea window upgrade.

This laminated window material offers exceptional clarity and gives clear vision throughout. For those who always leave their sprayhood up and in place, it offers the same great protection of the elements as our standard window material, but with greater clarity.

NB. It is not suitable for those who wish to sail with the hood collapsed, as it should be handled with extreme care.

Tenara Thread

• UV and weather-resistant
• Unaffected by sunlight UV(ultraviolet) radiation
• Unaffected by weather including water or saltwater
• Will not rot or decay

Click HERE for a downloadable version of this page.

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• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

The Super-compact Sailboat Dodger

Sailing in general, but especially offshore, can sometimes be a wet experience particularly on a low-freeboard boat like Far Reach, our highly modified Cape Dory 36. So, some kind of protection in the cockpit is helpful to staying dry when the weather turns dirty or the spray starts flying.

The most common solution for protection is to install a full-width dodger which is essentially a wind and spray shield spanning the width of the cockpit. Hard dodgers are sometimes permanently built into the boat and made of wood, fiberglass, or sometimes aluminum. But most often they are fabric stretched over stainless-steel or aluminum tubes.

While the canvas can be removed and the frames folded down, most often they are left up. It is also common to add additional protection including overhead canvas (sometimes with solar panels on still more overhead framing) and all-weather side curtains that can be zipped on or off as the conditions dictate. These elaborate and expensive enclosures provide extensive protection for those in the cockpit (see “ Solving the Dodger Dilemma ,” Practical Sailor, November 2022).

I have always enjoyed the graceful lines of traditional sailboats whether they’re an 1898 pilot cutter, early S&S design such as Dorade or Stormy Weather, or designs influenced by the Cruising Club of America, such as Carl Alberg’s Cape Dory line. Thus, I was easily drawn to the gentle spoon bow, traditional transom and graceful sheer of my own boat, a Cape Dory 36. And while I made many changes to Far Reach during our extensive rebuild (a taller rig, longer bowsprit, raised bulwarks, and stout boom gallows), I wanted to retain her classic lines (see PS November 2022–March 2023).

WHY A PRAM-HOOD?

Very early in the rebuild I decided I did not want a full-width dodger. While I wanted protection over the companionway, especially when the top hatch is slid open, there were several reasons I decided against it. The first is while I saw a few boats with beautifully integrated dodgers (hard and soft) that fit artistically into the overall design of the boat, often they looked like an afterthought focused primarily on the utilitarian function of blocking wind and rain with little regard to the overall aesthetic beauty of sailboat design. To be fair, it is exceedingly difficult to design something as large as a dodger that is both effective and barely noticeable at the same time.

The second reason is that most of the dodgers I saw were quite large and I reasoned they would add significant windage to the front facing profile of the boat. While Far Reach is not a race boat, windage adds drag that can slow down a boat going to windward. Windage can also cause a boat to dance around at anchor and cause it to drag.

I sailed Far Reach essentially engine-free for five years and during that time I had little recourse if the anchor dragged. I could either quickly get a second anchor down or buoy and slip the anchor and sail out of danger. So, keeping windage down was a consideration from the beginning. Many boats out cruising today are not just encumbered by dodger-induced windage but also extensive canvas enclosures, solar arches, wind generators, davits, large inflatables, and additional fuel and water cans strapped along the side decks.

All these accouterments and conveniences add windage to the boat as well make access to the deck more difficult. They can interfere with winches and fairleads, forcing compromises. I wanted to avoid as much of that as possible.

The third consideration is that dodgers and their accessory canvas enclosures can obstruct the crew’s vision of the sails and hinder vision outside the boat, making it harder to see tell-tail signs of wind angles, approaching gusts, nearby boat traffic, and other hazards. Having sailed on a wide variety of boats, small and large, I dislike feeling cocooned in the cockpit and separated from the physical environment, which I relish as part of my sailing experience.

And lastly, large elaborate dodgers, while offering a lot of protection, can be quite expensive. A price of $4,000 to $5,000 is not unreasonable for a quality dodger, not including additional foul-weather enclosures for a boat the size of Far Reach. I have a friend who spent well over $10,000 on a dodger—stainless-steel frame, canvas, and additional foul-weather enclosures.

As I thought about what kind of dodger to choose for Far Reach, I kept returning to pictures I had seen of a simple DIY pram-hood (sometimes called a spray-hood) that Lin Pardey and her late husband Larry used on their famous 29’6” Lyle Hess designed wooden cutter Taleisin.

As I began to research pram-hoods I began to notice there were some beautiful boats using them. Along with Taleisin, another well known and highly successful blue water sailboat using a pram-hood, is the beautiful wooden S&S 40’ sloop Sunstone. She was sailed for more than 30 years all over the world by Tom and Vicky Jackson. I noticed many Swans had pram-hoods over the amidships crew companionway hatch. My friend Kaj Jacobson also built a lovely pram-hood for his gorgeous self-built Hess 34, Astrid ( www.knjwoodworking.blogspot.com ).

DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

After careful consideration it was clear we should give the pram hood a try. Pram-hoods typically provide protection strictly for the companionway, their width determined by the size of hatch opening (our pram hood is 30-inches wide). The height is determined by the ergonomics necessary to access the companionway as well as aesthetic considerations. The fabric, stretched over bows (usually two), extends forward over the companionway as well as to the sides.

The pram-hood might be angled aft a bit providing limited protection from side spray or rain being driven into the cockpit from the side or aft. The greatest protection a pram-hood provides is generally from rain or spray coming from forward and abeam, although it provides sun protection to the interior of the boat as well.

Our first pram hood was effective and affordable. We built it based on the Pardey’s design. To get the design right, I corresponded with the Pardeys and they were helpful answering all my questions. The materials included semi-flexible 1-inch diameter black irrigation tubing, brackets made from scrap silicon bronze, ¼-inch thick ultra-high molecular weight strips we purchased from McMaster Carr, some ¼-inch shock cord, and vinyl fabric called Stamoid. It was easy to build and quite effective. Total cost was about $200.

The key was a clever but simple bi-fold hinge system. The hood was low profile. As you entered the companionway, you simply pushed the single bow forward to fold it down a bit, and let it go so the hoop sprang back up over your head.

It was easy to install and remove, and could be stored flat. It was effective keeping the rain and spray out of the companionway. The concave shape on the front side, due to use of a single bow, meant there was not much room under it and the visibility while under the hood was limited since there was no window.

I liked its low profile. Most times you did not notice it was there, so it did not detract from the boat’s clean lines. We sailed with this pram-hood for about five years and 7,000 miles including some rough winter passages to the Virgin Islands from the US East Coast. My experience with this simple system convinced me the continued use of a pram-hood was the way to go.

A MODIFIED PRAM HOOD

In 2020-2021, despite some reluctance on my part, we decided to enter the 20th Century and finally installed a small inboard engine in Far Reach. During that time, I began thinking about modifying the original pram-hood to provide a little more room inside the enclosure and also add a window for improved visibility. I found, especially singlehanding, I spent a lot of time sitting on the bridge deck, legs inside the boat, protected behind the spray hood.

I examined ways to modify our existing hood by adding a second bow. I took it to a trusted canvas shop and they thought it would be difficult to make the kinds of mods I wanted and still make it foldable. Because I liked the pram-hood concept and was generally pleased with our hood, despite its few limitations, I began thinking about a slightly larger more robust foldable design with windows but still easily removable.

I started the design process by making some sketches of various bows and shapes. Next, I drew out different size hoods on a profile drawing of the boat to see how they looked aesthetically.

I wanted the new hood to be bigger than the original but small enough that it did not draw attention to itself. I wanted the observer’s eye to still be drawn to the boat and not the pram-hood.

One of the limitations we face on Far Reach is the distance between the aft face of the mast and the forward edge of the companionway is 8’6” but our Fatty Knees hard dinghy is 9’ long. Thus, the hard dinghy stowed inverted on chocks between the mast and companionway overlaps the hatch opening a small amount. The overlap necessitated the pram-hood be designed so as to avoid contact with the transom of the dinghy. The hood must pass under the transom yet provide complete rain and spray protection over the companionway.

To make fabrication of the hood easier and to better understand my design requirements, the next step was to make an accurate wood mock-up of our companionway opening. After building the mock-up and carefully confirming the measurements, I used the design drawing to fabricate a simple PVC tube pram-hood frame. I used scraps of plywood to make crude hinges so the hood could fold forward.

I played with the mock frame and made some adjustments till I thought it looked right and worked properly. I then took it to our canvas shop and discussed the design with them. They thought it wouldn’t be too difficult to accommodate the overhanging dinghy transom. They also said if the mock-up was accurate there would be no need to make visits to the boat which would save some money.

They believed they could incorporate a batten as a kind of spreader bar to keep the hood under the transom of the dinghy. They could not, however, bend the SS tubes to the tight radius I wanted for the frame. I was going to have to find a fabricator with the tools and skills to bend the frames to the radius that I wanted.

I visited with a SS fabricator who previously had done an excellent job welding a SS bracket on my stove. We discussed the design in detail. I left the mock-up with him along with a detailed drawing. A week later I had a beautifully built 316 SS pram-hood frame. I returned to the canvas shop with the wood mock-up and the SS frame bolted in place. In about a week, the canvas shop had built a cover using white, heavy duty Stamoid fabric which I requested because it is completely water proof, durable, and would blend in with the boat. As discussed, they made the cover with five windows all with snap covers to protect the windows from sun damage.

The new design was easy to secure to the companionway with a single hinge on each side of the hatch rails. I also incorporated the bronze inserts I had previously used to secure the original pram-hood fabric to the sea-hood, which houses the hatch when it is slid forward. I installed a small 30-inch wide PVC bolt-rope sleeve called a Costa track to the aft end of the sea-hood (the hatch slides forward under the sea-hood). The forward end of the fabric slides into the Costa track so that it is locked into place.

I also installed bronze pad eyes on the rear face of the cabin top to secure ¼-inch double-braid line to keep the frame in position but which can be untied to allow it to fold forward. Shock cord could also be used in place of the double braid. The pram-hood fabric and frame can be removed quickly and easily. When removed, the frame folds compactly and is easy to store in the boat.

The hood was easy to install. It fit perfectly. The windows let an exceptional amount of light into the boat via the companionway. The new slightly larger hood permits me to stand on the companionway ladder, with the hatch slid forward, well protected under the pram-hood. I have great visibility except straight forward due to the inverted dinghy but that’s to be expected. At anchor, with the dinghy in the water the visibility forward is superb.

ACCESSORY AWNINGS

Just like sailors who have a full dodger, we incorporated additional canvas to augment the spray/rain protection provided by the pram-hood. The first is a 6’x6’ square grey Sunbrella canvas with grommets around the perimeter. We tie off this awning over the cockpit when sailing to provide sun protection. We can use it sailing upwind or downwind.

The sailing awning takes less than three minutes to erect. There are no battens. We tie the front end to the boom gallows frame and the aft end to the back stay. The sides are tied off with short lanyards to the lifeline with rolling hitches. We can move it to one side or the other as well as position it forward or aft depending on the location of the sun to provide the best shade for the cockpit.

The second awning is a larger piece of blue Sunbrella and matches the color of our sail cover. It’s a trapezoidal shape and is about 9-feet long and 8-feet wide at the front end and about 6-feet wide on the aft end. It completely covers the cockpit. At anchor, installing the larger awning requires that I disconnect the mainsheet block and tackle which I place over the boom gallows along with the coiled mainsheet. When we’re motoring or sailing downwind, the mainsheet is not in the way and we can employ the large or small sun awning without difficulty. Even though it is larger than the 6×6 awning it is faster to put up and take down (about one minute) because we incorporated plastic snaps that hook to the life line.

This sun awning extends forward of the pram hood so we can keep the companionway open in anything but a driving rain blowing from the sides. In addition to protection from the sun and rain we use both these awnings to collect rain water.

We also carry a couple sections of heavy mesh fabric called Cool-A-Roo. Gayle sewed a hem into these mesh rectangles and I installed grommets around the perimeter. We can tie these into our sun awning if we want just that little extra shade for a low angle sunbeam that always seems to find a way past the larger awnings.

DISADVANTAGES

There is no doubt a full-width dodger with or without the additional semi-permanent enclosures would provide more protection than a pram-hood alone. Although we have great protection under the pram-hood, on deck in dirty weather we wear foul weather gear appropriate to the conditions. Our ability to use the additional awnings when sailing is limited to more benign conditions.

The pram-hood style dodger is lower profile. It does not detract from the lines of the boat. The pram-hood has less windage at anchor and while sailing and permits better visibility of the sails, wind, water, and surrounding boat traffic and other hazards like buoys and pilings. A pram-hood does not block the breeze in the cockpit, which is important in warm weather or in the tropics. The pram-hood is easier to remove and stow below deck. A pram-hood, even a high quality one like our current hood, is far less expensive than a full width dodger with enclosures.

Since we installed the new pram-hood I have sailed the boat about 4,000 offshore miles and spent six months living aboard sailing in the Virgin Islands. It has exceeded my expectations. For all the reasons described in this article it is a great alternative to the full dodger many sailors might otherwise view as the only option available.

SUNBRELLA, www.maldenmills.com

MCMASTER CARR, www.mcmaster.com

STAMOID, www.sergeferrari.com

Two canvas awnings are an important part of how we gain the additional protection from the sun and rain that a small pram-hood would not otherwise provide. But unlike more permanent solutions, these awnings deploy easily, fold flat, and take up little space when stowed. My wife Gayle made ours at home, and I installed the grommets. This keep-it-simple approach gives us protection that can quickly be struck for maximum visibility, which is our first priority.

The “at sea” awning is a 6-by-6 foot grey Sunbrella. The “at anchor” awning is a larger trapezoidal piece of blue Sunbrella about 9-feet long. The forward edge is about eight feet, the stern edge is about and 6-feet long.

1. Measuring about 6-by-6 feet, the “at sea” cockpit canvas can be carried in moderate winds.

2. Making sure the helmsperson is well protected from the sun during a long passage is a priority.

3. The smaller sea-going shade can be moved around the cockpit according the sun location.

4. The trapezoidal blue cover most of the cockpit as well as the companionway. When the sun is low, heavy mesh at the sides can create additional shade.

When making a substantial investment in canvas accessories like a Bimini top or dodger, it’s easy to “go with the flow,” and accept designs that are patterned to fit contemporary cruisers that make up the larger share of the market. But owners of older “classic plastics” like the Carl Alberg designed Cape Dory 36 might want to take the time to sketch out various options first.

One of the most distinguishing characteristics of many Cruising Club of America-era boats is their low profile. While adding a relatively tall dodger that extends across the cabin top can be a practical (and expensive) addition, drawing a proportional profile view of the boat can help you decide if this is a look you can live with.

1. A tape measure, protractor, ruler, pencil and graph paper can help you pin down support measurements, panel dimensions, and window sizes that you can use to make the dodger yourself, or to guide a professional toward a perfect fit.

2. A profile sketch of the author’s Cape Dory 36, Far Reach, shows how the new pram-hood would appear in a profile view of the boat. A series of sketches of the revised, second generation dodger was used to guide the final fabrication.

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How to make your own sprayhood or bimini as a DIY project

• March 30, 2020

Ann Berry describes how an industrial sewing machine could save you thousands of pounds if your canvaswork is worn out and you want to make your own sprayhood or bimini.

Sun, sea and general weathering had degraded the stitching, attachment points and external canvas work on Aderyn Glas , our Moody Eclipse 33. It was time to replace it all: sprayhood, bimini and bridging piece (that joins the sprayhood and bimini together for use in port) but the cost would run into thousands!

My domestic sewing machine would not have the power or ability to handle the weight and layers of fabric required for items such as a sprayhood or bimini. An industrial machine would be required – they’re much larger, heavier and robust than domestic machines. They have a separate external motor and a metal foot treadle and are set into their own large sewing table, so do take up a lot of room. I store mine in the garage and wheel it into the house when sewing.

The industrial sewing machine has a very large throat compared to a domestic one. This is the space from the sewing needle to the upright control column, allowing for much larger volumes of material, which are also supported by the large table.

The machine I chose was a Highlead: a heavy-duty top and bottom feed lockstitch with a walking foot. A walking foot has teeth on the underside which synchronise with the teeth on the machine gripping both top and bottom layers when sewing. It feeds them evenly through the machine, and is important, for example, with sprayhoods when zips, webbing, Velcro and various edging materials are being sandwiched on or between the canvas layers.

Price was a major factor for me as industrial machines can cost thousands of pounds, even second-hand. Mine cost £500 and was manufactured in 2005 so I felt that I could do the work and even recoup some cost by selling it later if required. Some popular brands are Typical, Brother, Pfaff, Juki and Singer. Machines can be researched through ebay but your local industrial sewing machine company would be a better bet as servicing and backup would be part of the package.

The main items I needed to replace on Aderyn Glas were the dodgers, sprayhood, bimini and bridging piece (this stretches between the sprayhood and bimini to from a solid canopy over the cockpit when in port or anchored, so is fully detachable).

Cost: Sewing machine = £500. Materials for sprayhood and bimini = £534 See also Ann Berry’s article on making a boom tent cockpit cover . How much material do you need? New bimini created by Ann. The width of most canvas and other fabrics is between 140cm and 150cm. When taking measurements I estimate in metres, and cut along the length of the fabric. For example if the sprayhood is 3.5m wide across the cockpit then I would need a 3.5m length of fabric to cover the cockpit width, and as many pieces of cloth as necessary for the cockpit length. A sprayhood is typically made of several different sections: the roof, the front section with the windows, and two side panels usually with webbing straps. In a wide cockpit the width of the roof section will take up most of the width of the canvas so I would not be able to get the window section out of one piece. I’d need an additional 3.5m of fabric. I measured the canvas zip channels and Velcro channels inside the old sprayhood, which attach it to the stainless steel frame and then the side sections. On squared paper I checked that they could be cut from the spare width material left from the window or roof section. If so, 7m of canvas was required for my sprayhood; if not, I would calculate the extra length required. When I’d worked out the length and widths of all the major pieces and their component parts I added an extra metre or so to allow for any errors in measuring. Extra fabric can always be used on smaller projects around the boat, and as coloured canvas is dyed, another batch might not be the same. Edging material, Velcro, plastic lining and webbing are measured directly along their lengths and the total length added up from each major piece being made. Zips are measured exactly, as they only come in specific lengths and will need to be shortened to fit if they are too long. I always replace any plastic fittings associated with the canvas work. If the canvas stitching has degraded then they will have too.

What else can you make with an industrial sewing machine?

Investing in a machine has been very worthwhile, and though I could resell it to recoup most of the costs, I think I’ll keep it in the short term. I’m having great fun, the boat is benefiting and I’m enjoying my purchase.

The industrial sewing machine has many advantages over my lighter domestic machine. The ability to sew heavier, treated canvas, leather and a wider range of upholstery fabrics opens up a greater range of projects. Here’s what else I’ve made:

• A canvas cover for the forepeak of Aderyn Glas . We store the dinghy under here over the winter. A simple project like that is a good way to become familiar with the industrial machine.
• New dodgers
• A cover for the solar panels
• Covers for the tail of the sail and gooseneck
• Padded seat backs for the cockpit (I plan to make new cockpit seats too)
• A variety of canvas bags, pockets, winch covers and other things I did not even know the boat needed until I let my mind wander while enjoying the sunshine in the cockpit!
• My husband, David, made a cover for our wooden garden seat last autumn out of the spare canvas I’d acquired.

Equipment and experience you will need before you start

To make a new sprayhood you’ll need to have had some sewing practice, experience of measuring, estimating fabric quantities and handling different materials, as they move and slip against one another.

YouTube has many tutorials, and though not necessarily marine-based, they’re still helpful.

There are lots of local sewing courses available, mainly for lightweight dress, household items and quilting, but these are the basic skills you’ll need for any sewing and are fully transferable. If you think you can do it, research it all, ask people for help, take a big breath and go for it!

If you don’t want to invest in an industrial machine, why not start with a domestic machine and take on some projects with lighter-weight fabrics. I’ve successfully made curtains, external shade and window covers, fender socks, a windscoop, re-covered the saloon cushions, and even a dinghy cover (many of these projects have been published in PBO over the years).

Materials you’ll need Double-sided tape Edging material 2m of rope channel Pack of chinagraph pencils (I got through three of them!) Length of stainless steel tubing (to check fit of tubes in sprayhood) 6m of lining plastic 14m grey canvas (covers bimini, sprayhood, bridging piece and dodgers) 2m clear plastic 10 x plastic zips: 4 x 90cm, 2 x 180cm, 2 x 45cm and 2 x 20cm Velcro: 10m x 2.5cm, loop and hook separate lengths. Metal and plastic fittings: 8 x lift-the-dot fasteners, 4 x canvas to canvas press studs, 2 x webbing strap tensioners. Polyester cotton: 1 x large spool 5,000m (plenty left for other projects) Zips, edging tapes, Velcro, thread and some of the other sundries you’ll need to make a sprayhood Suppliers Josh Brown of Severn Sails is a sailmaker and canvas work professional. I gave him a list and he sourced most of my materials. He also gave me some useful pointers and guidance before I started my projects. You can also source these yourself online via kayospruce.com . Fixtures and fittings can be bought from chandleries. Time to make I only work a few hours a day when I am sewing so I would say it took me about 16 hours (four days) for the bimini from start to finish and 20 hours (five days) for the sprayhood. I do spend a lot of time measuring and checking what I am doing at every stage so work quite slowly.

Recreating the bimini – step by step

Accurate measurement is essential. To ensure that every part of the bimini would match up I drew in permanent ink on the old canvas to identify where each element fitted but transferred marks to the new canvas with a white chinagraph pencil which would rub off later.

I used the individual pieces of the bimini, once deconstructed, to draw around and copy the image directly onto the new canvas. I took care to flatten out or straighten out each individual piece. Curved pieces when flattened out take up a greater length.

The bimini has three zipped channels, one central Velcro channel and a Velcro back flap to go around the back stay. This design also has a zip inserted along the whole front face to link to my bridging piece.

When you transfer dimensions from old to new material it’s best to work from a datum. In my case I established a centre line on each piece and worked from there.

1. Place the original bimini right side down onto the new canvas and draw around it. With a white chinagraph pencil, mark the centreline, and the position of the Velcro and zip channels and the backstay opening.

2. Remove each zip and Velcro channel from the old bimini after marking their original positions. You can then measure and compare between original and new before you sew the new ones in place. Take the detached pieces (eg, the zip, seen above) and sketch the position of the individual elements (such as the zip open and closed ends). Draw around these individual pieces on the new canvas.

3. Amazingly, all eight elements at the bottom of this photo are needed to make the rear starboard zip channel and back flap of the bimini (the original three pieces at the top). Once sewn back together (see steps below) you’ll need to repeat the process for the other two roof zip channels, and the port side flap and zip channel.

4. Edge each piece of canvas with matching grey fabric tape which will protect and neaten the raw edges of the fabric/canvas. Then use double-sided sticky tape to hold the zip in place when sewing it in. This stops adjacent layers slipping during sewing with the machine.

5. A finished zip channel. Complete all the zip channels in the same manner. Use a piece of stainless tubing (the same diameter as your bimini frame) to check the newly cut zip and Velcro sections will have sufficient width to wrap or enclose the tubes.

6. The bimini’s central Velcro channel has Velcro stitched onto the reverse and right sides to allow the canvas to curl around and encase the stainless steel frame. Draw around the canvas strips, cut them to length then stitch the Velcro in place. Here I used quilting clips to hold the Velcro while sewing.

Making the bimini backstay slot

The rear of the bimini has a hole to allow the backstay to pass through it. The canvas in this section has to be cut and Velcro is used to close the gap.

7. Measure the original and cut new pieces to form the Velcro closure.

8. Mark the centre opening on the new canvas for the backstay flap and around the hole. Cut the opening and sew a Velcro flap on to each side – hooks on the lower surface and loops on the upper.

9. Edge the backstay opening and all of the outer edges of the bimini with grey tape for neatness and strength.

How to shorten zips

Choose zips with plastic teeth, as metal will rust in a marine environment. Use the original zip to measure the exact length required, including the end tapes. For the sprayhood, if you’re making new channels, measure the length of gap in which to insert the new zip. This will be from the base of the zip to the top. Mark the final length with a pen, and where to cut.

1. These stainless steel zipper top stops are used to create the end of travel of the zip slider when done up.

2. Use pliers to squeeze the metal clips closed between the teeth on both sides of the zip.

3. Cut away the excess length of zip, above the mark (on both sides), being sure to leave a bit extra to form new tape ends for attachment to the canvas.

4. Use small pieces of plastic material to cover and reinforce the unused exposed teeth of the zip. For additional strength, over-sew the zip end two or three times and double-stitch all zips along their length.

How to make a sprayhood

My sprayhood is a three-dimensional structure fitting over a demountable stainless steel frame. Before disassembly I took lots of photographs to show how the different sections are attached, and labelled each one. The four main component parts are the roof, front window section and two side panels.

The rear section had a continuous canvas tube, with scalloped handhold gaps, into which one of the stainless bars is threaded when the sprayhood is erected each season. I wanted to replace this with zipped channels so the stainless frame did not need to be dismantled to take the sprayhood off – but at the same time I wanted to retain the handholds.

1. The original sprayhood showing the port side panel, with webbing straps, joined onto the roof and window panels, prior to deconstruction. You can see the UV damage to the torn zip.

2. Lay the old roof, right sides together, onto the new canvas and draw around the entire shape. Transfer all channels, zips and handhold positions to the new canvas, allowing for a 5mm seam. Repeat for the front window panel and the two side panels.

3. To make the new zip channels I drew around the originals on the rear of the new sprayhood roof. I cut off the flaps to form the patterns for the separate zip channels, then cut along the centre length of each flap to form a pattern for the new zip opening.

4. These are the component parts that form the central zip channel and there’s a similar set for each of the two smaller curved channels.

5. The two smaller side zip channels, ready to sew back onto the new roof section.

6. The rear of the roof section with the bridging piece zips inserted and the central zip channel attached. The handhold gaps have also been edged.

Fitting the windows

Fitting the plastic window panel into the canvas is tricky, as both materials are slippery and the window can easily become distorted when stitching.

To overcome this, place the old, intact window panel over the new plastic sheet and draw around the outer edge before cutting it out.

Now lay the new plastic window directly onto the underside, or wrong side, of the new, uncut canvas panel. Use double-sided tape to hold it in place while you sew them together.

Only carefully cut out the canvas aperture once the plastic is in place.

1. Sew the new window onto the reverse side of the panel. It’ll help with the next step to first cut a small guide hole in the centre of each window panel.

2. Having marked the window aperture (allowing for a seam), the small hole now gives access to cut around the canvas to reveal the window underneath.

3. Cut small nicks in the canvas around all the curves in the windows then fold the material back underneath to form a neat edge. Hold the fabric flat against the plastic.

4. Sew around the whole of the window sections, from the front, to firmly attach the plastic into the window cut outs. I used quilting clips to hold the backfolded edge in place while machining.

5. I lined the front lower edges of the sprayhood with plastic material to prevent wear to the canvas from rubbing on the coachroof, then attached the new webbing strips (not forgetting to incorporate the clips before sewing).

6. Here are the four sections of the sprayhood prior to being joined back into one three dimensional structure.

7. Sew the sections, right sides together, with a single seam, and then over-sew a second layer of stitching on the right (or outside) of the canvas for additional strength.

8. The final sewing task is to secure the prefabricated bolt rope tape into the base and sides of the front window panel. The bolt rope slides into a permanent plastic fitting on the coachroof and holds the sprayhood down at the front of the cockpit.

9. Reassemble the sprayhood on the boat before making a hole for the mainsheet. A laser pointer from the pulley block to the winch accurately positions it.

Sprayhood – bimini bridge

To cover the gap between the sprayhood and bimini when we are not sailing we have a bridging piece, which is attached with zips.

My detachable bridging piece joins to the sprayhood by the three front zips (the gaps are where the sprayhood handhold are) and then to the bimini by the one long rear zip

Originally published in PBO Aug19

SAILING YACHT SPRAYHOOD

The C&J Marine Sprayhood is modern, versatile and above all, innovative. Not only is it the perfect stand-alone product, but it also provides the foundations for further adaptations of C&J Marine top-of-the-range covers that will transform the Sprayhood into a first-class multi-functional system.

Providing a robust and sturdy structure to the C&J Marine Sprayhood is the framework; manufactured from a strong, marine-grade, high-quality stainless steel. This framework provides exceptional stability along with the very distinctive C&J Marine profile. Complimenting the already incomparably designed cover and framework, the attachment and tensioning methods utilised are strong, yet controllable. This enables swift and effortless assembly and stowage of the C&J Sprayhood.

The materials used in the construction of the C&J Marine Sprayhood ensure optimum use, durability and appearance. As well as a product that can be easily maintained and valeted. The highly-advanced materials, in conjunction with modern digital manufacturing techniques, enable C&J Marine to continue to remain leaders in their sector, providing a product of a consistently-superior quality.

CUSTOMISE YOUR SPRAYHOOD

The C&J Marine Sprayhood has been developed over 30 years to be a versatile product, while maintaining the quality of the components throughout. Our customers can have a variety of different needs, ranging from lake and coastal, fair weather day trips, to round the world blue water adventures. Our products can be designed and customised from a range of optional extras to best suit your needs and plans with your vessel. Our knowledgeable and friendly staff are always on hand to discuss what is available for your product, ensuring you are made aware of every possibility, therefore if you would like to hear more information on any of our customising options and how they could benefit you, please get in touch.

EXTRA WINDOWS

The option of inserting extra windows, manufactured from strong clear PVC, into the side panels and sidescreens of C&J Sprayhood will improve the all-round vision, as well as adding more light into the companionway area.

ROLL-AWAY CENTRE WINDOW

For sailing in warmer climates or for those hot summer days, the cleverly designed C&J Marine roll-away, zipped centre window is ideal. This allows a cool flow of air to be channeled into the cockpit area instead of being diverted over the top of the Sprayhood and away from the cockpit.

FAUX LEATHER FINGER STRIP

The Faux Leather Finger Strip is an alternative option which can be used when the C&J Marine Sprayhood Grab Handle cannot be installed. The finger strip is attached to the rear of the Sprayhood cover and is designed to also protect the Sprayhood from wear and chafing.

WINDOW COVERS

To enable protection of the Sprayhood windows, as well as blocking out any unwanted light, C&J Marine high-quality window covers are the solution.

Keeping the windows covered will prolong the life of the PVC material. When the Sprayhood is used in conjunction with the C&J Marine Cockpit Enclosure , privacy can also be achieved, ideal for those who live aboard or cruise extensively.

These covers are manufactured from the same material as the Sprayhood and will attach to the outside of the canopy using secure high quality fasteners.

GRAB HANDLES

Safety is an important factor for us all when sailing. Stepping down into the cockpit when the decks are wet can inevitably end in disaster if we don’t have something to grab onto. Naturally your C&J Sprayhood will be an easy target to steady yourself, but, if possible, we recommend you don’t grab the fabric cover.

For most Sprayhoods, we can weld an extra grab handlebar onto the rear hoop of your Sprayhood. This will usually extend the coverage aft by 75-100mm, closely following the profile of your existing frame.

Alternatively, or, in addition to the rear grab handle we can add forward bar side handles. Two individual handles can be welded to the forward-facing front bar of your Sprayhood, as a convenient hand hold when travelling from and to the cockpit or mast.

If you already have a C&J Sprayhood and you are keen for us to add a welded bar, we can. It is important to note, we don’t just need your frame returning to us, we will also need your cover. We will need to modify your Sprayhood canvas cover, creating allowances for the new welded joins on the backbar of your frame. The cost to retrospectively add a welded grab handle to an existing C&J Sprayhood is slightly more, due to the additional modification work required. It is always worth planning this in from new if you can.

‘SEW-ON’ NYLON HANDLES

A cost-effective solution for our customers unable to send their frame back for modification. By returning your Sprayhood canvas cover only, we can retrospectively add these UV stable nylon handles anywhere on your cover, which you feel would benefit an additional hand hold. Although not recommended as a safety device these are simple, yet brilliant!

FABRICS AND THREAD

PU Acrylic Canvas

Sunbrella Plus

Weathermax 80.

Breathable Polyester

Thread Options

Bonded Polyester vs Gore Tenara

Take a look at some of our work...

MAKE AN ENQUIRY

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We would like to keep you up to date on our latest news, seasonal offers and new innovative products. All we need is for you to let us know the most appropriate email address to contact you on and for you to detail what information is of interest to you.

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IMPORTANT NOTICE: Please be aware that there will be road works commencing on the 14th of March on Clay Lane near the level crossing. These are expected to finish on the 28th of March Business as usual at C&J Marine Ltd, access via north entrance Dismiss

SAIL MAKING SINCE 1830

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Almost 200 years of experience

Own harbor in Lemmer

Our people sail themselves: recreational and competition

Sprayhood for your sailboat, motorboat or sloop

A sprayhood (also called spray hood called) is indispensable for sailing trips with overcoming water, rain or wind. A sprayhood offers multiple possibilities because it also protects you from bright sunlight. Are you looking for a sprayhood for your sailboat, motorboat or sloop? Then you have come to the right place! In our sail workshop we have made thousands of spray hoods. So we like to think along with you and hear all your wishes.

Please let us know what function your sprayhood should have? Will you use the sprayhood against the sun, wind or rain, for example? Then advise then: 

• How many windows you need
• The mounting options
• The color and material 

What is a sprayhood or tube hood?

A sprayhood is a canvas canopy that stands on your boat like a tent through a tubular frame. The frame provides protection from weather and wind. Because it blocks rain, water, wind and sun, you can sail extra comfortably. 

Would you like to buy the right sprayhood for your sloop, sailboat or motorboat? Then quickly read on how we can help you further. 

Buying a sprayhood

The price of a sprayhood depends on a number of factors. Consider:

• Number of windows
• Addition of zippers and fasteners

We look at the possibilities of your boat as if it were our own. We keep sprayhood prices in mind. If a lot of customization is involved, we'll tell you right away. That way you can decide if specific needs are worth it. 

Fabric and Cloth for your sprayhood

The color and type of cloth for your sprayhood greatly affects the appearance of the hood and your boat. In addition, the lifespan is also determined by this. It is therefore important to use good quality fabrics. Zeilmakerij De Vries Maritiem works closely with several fabric suppliers and we only use the very best fabrics. We work together with: 

• Weatthermax
• Sauleda Masacril
• Sattler Yachtmaster  

Sprayhood maintenance

"How long does a sprayhood last?" We hear this question often. The lifespan varies. This is due to both the materials used and exposure to the elements. Those who maintain their sprayhood properly increase its lifespan. Therefore, we recommend cleaning the sprayhood regularly with mild materials. 

Sprayhood options and purchase 

When you order a sprayhood, the first thing we discuss is how you want to use the sprayhood. Do you sail intensively? Is your boat often in full sun? Do you sail fresh or salt water more often? The answers to these questions determine which material is best for your boat's sprayhood.

Then we will hear your wishes and ideas about the design. Where do you want windows, openings and bimini's? You can think of all kinds of options. Our expert sailmakers make it all come true in our sailmaking shop. For inspiration, we share some common desires. 

Sprayhood with aft tent or cockpit tent

Depending on the size of the boat, we apply a tubular frame of 22 to 35 mm stainless steel. The hood can be expanded with a connecting rear tent or cockpit tent, which is zipped to the tubular hood. This extension is also called a tarpaulin. This extension increases the covered living space in your boat. 

Sprayhood with skylight for good visibility

It would be a shame if your sprayhood is all finished and installed, and you miss a window for good visibility. After all, some things you don't notice until it's in use. That's why we think with you even before production. For example, we ask if you want to see important instruments while sailing, or the top of the mast. Then we can make a roof window in the ceiling of the sprayhood. 

Sprayhood with extra grip for holding

Are you looking for a sprayhood with firm hold? Then you can choose a sprayhood with roll handle, also called gripper bar. This sturdy handle is used when getting in or out of the cockpit. Because we have developed a unique double fitting, the roll bar or gripper bar is extra strong and durable. You can also choose to cover your stainless steel gripper bar with genuine leather. It provides a luxurious look and a pleasant grip. 

Sprayhood cleaning: tips for the best results

You can extend the life of your sprayhood and keep your boat looking nice. We explain step by step how to clean your sprayhood properly. First, use a microfiber cloth to clean the windows. Use a solution of water and a small splash of vinegar. Ingredients you probably have in your home. Important: Do not use miracle sponges for windows! The sponges seem effective, but they remove an important coating from the windows. After every sailing trip on salt water, rinse the sprayhood with water. UV is harmful to cloth and windows. Make sure the sprayhood is covered by a winter tent or sun canopy whenever possible. 

Do you have little time? Then we will clean the sprayhood for you - quickly, effectively and professionally. Your sprayhood will look like new again. If sprayhood cleaning is not of much use because your equipment is in poor condition we will of course tell you. 

Satisfied customers

We are proud to be the house supplier for some wonderful leading brands and clubs when it comes to sprayhoods. We supply beautiful spray hoods to Hanse Yachts, Bavaria, Dehler Netherlands, Association for Touring Sailors and the Midget Club, among others. Is your company or association also interested in purchasing our sprayhoods in larger quantities at a favorable rate? Then please contact us.

Please leave your details and we will start working for you with no obligation. What can you expect? We will send you a quote via e-mail and, if desired, we will make an appointment to call you.

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Sprayhood and special solutions

We can ensure quality from bow to stern with a tailor-made solution. Get a sprayhood for your sailboat.

Get a non-binding offer here

​Sprayhood for your sailboat

At Kalechesmeden, we have extensive experience in making coatings and canopies for boats, and we can also make sprayhoods, which are a type of canopy primarily used for sailing boats.

We can make sprayhoods in many different sizes and the quality is of the highest. So, do you have a sailboat that needs a new sprayhood? Then, we can help you!

In addition, we can supply you with new frames for your sprayhood if you need them. We offer frames in galvanized aluminium or stainless steel.

However, we will, in most cases, recommend aluminium tubes, as these are lighter than the stainless steel type. At the same time, stainless steel tubes can mirror the sun, thereby creating "brand marks" in the window material.

Beautiful sprayhood in high quality

We value quality and design really highly. That is why we make every effort to ensure that our sprayhood is of the very best quality, and fits perfectly with your sailing boat.

It is important that a sprayhood is of high quality and made of strong material because it must handle heavy wind loads, as well as the weather, when it is in front of the boat and the screen is covered.

Even though the sprayhood is not intended as a shelter for you to can sit and relax under, we are also able to make a cockpit which can be connected to the sprayhood, so you can use more areas on your boat.

In addition to design and quality, we also see it as a natural part of our work that you, as a customer, must be fully satisfied. Therefore, we deliver sprayhoods only at competitive prices, we always comply with our agreement and we deliver the work on the agreed date.

Get a great deal

Do you have a sailboat which needs a new sprayhood? Then we are absolutely the right people to contact.

You can contact us on phone (+45) 49 20 11 44 or send us an e-mail through our offer form: you will find our offer form by clicking here . Tell us your boat's dimensions and we can offer you a great deal on a sprayhood. Find some inspiration for your new sprayhood by clicking here .

​Covers and canopies for boats​

​We offer canopies and other covers for all boats, with unique fit and elegant design. If you are missing a cover for your boat, we measure it up, so that the boat can be protected throughout the winter. We deliver quality work at competitive prices and always comply with agreed terms and delivery times.​​

Information for customers with trailer boats

​We have a large hall in Elsinore where you can leave you trailer boat if you would like us to create a new canopy for your boat. That makes it easy to get a new cover, canopy, cushions and more, even in bad weather. If this might interest you, please don't hesitate to contact us by phone: (+45) 49 20 11 44 .

”Thanks for sprayhood & canopy for Scampièn - it fits perfectly"​

​Gunner Riising, Scampi​

”Kalechesmeden have made a great job - good Danish work at its best”​

​Bjarne Johansen, Aquador 32C​

FIND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR SAILBOAT HERE

Find inspiration here

We have a large hall in Elsinore where you can leave you trailer boat if you would like us to create a new canopy for your boat. That makes it easy to get a new cover, canopy, cushions and more, even in bad weather. If this might interest you, please don't hesitate to contact us by phone: (+45)4920 1144 .

Sign up for our SMS reminder

we help you remember your canopy in the fall

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Information

Kalechesmeden

Nordhavnsvej 7, ​3000 Elsinore

VAT.no.: 12498187​

Telephone :​ ​ (+45) 49 20 11 44

E-m​ail: ​[email protected]​

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Hardtop Dodgers – The Next Big Thing in Sailing

The Canvas Works crew are professional marine fabricators as well as sailors with significant time on the water. Sailing experience allows us to understand how best to construct a quality dodger and how it will perform in demanding conditions.

What is a Dodger You Might Ask?

If you are a baseball fan, you might stumble upon this post. Unfortunately, you will not learn anything about the baseball team, but don’t be afraid to stick around and learn about the other type of dodger, the sailboat dodger and more specifically, the high performance hardtop dodger .

A Traditional Canvas Dodger vs A Bimini Top – Need Some Clarity?

A bimini top is an open-front canvas top stretched over a metal frame, or bows for the cockpit or deck of a powerboat or sailboat. Most bimini tops can be collapsed or retracted when not in use and returned to their full extension if shade or shelter is needed. Unlike sailboat dodgers, biminis are found on all different types of sports boats, performance powerboats, pontoon boats and sailboats. Biminis provide shade and protect the helmsman from UV rays but they do not provide full protection from the elements.

A bimini can have 2, 3 or 4 bows as the supporting structure. This structure can provide the framework for a boat enclosure on any type of boat. In this blog, we will explore the high performance hardtop dodgers, an excellent alternative to the traditional canvas dodger.

Introducing the Hardtop Dodger

If you are considering a new dodger, look no further. Here, we will explore the main differences between the soft canvas dodger and the hardtop dodger to help you make the best decision for your boat and lifestyle. Both options have their benefits:

Benefits of the Hardtop Dodger

Hardtop dodgers are a perfect choice for functionality, longevity, and overall coverage. Our hardtop’s are designed, engineered, and built for low maintenance, a high strength to weight ratio while maintaining a nice ascetic.

Below are some reasons why you may want to consider a hardtop dodger over a soft, canvas dodger.

The Structure of a Hardtop Dodger

Hardtop Dodger : Our frames and supporting structure are fabricated in 1.25” OD 316 stainless steel tubing. The larger diameter is robust and can withstand higher loads.

Canvas Dodger : Typical construction is with 1” OD tubing. This is a fine size to support the canvas top.

The Surface of a Hardtop Dodger

Hardtop Dodger : The actual hardtop is fabricated with a ¾” foam or balsa core , x-mat fiberglass , epoxy resin and high quality gel coat . It is a 3 inch cambered 90” x 54” x 1” top with a rain lip. Because of these features, The hardtop is very strong, robust and provides a durable surface allowing you to mount solar panels, lighting, sound systems, hand rails and ancillary hardware.

Canvas Dodger : Typically made from durable marine Sunbrella or PVC coated fabric. Canvas dodgers, even when stretched perfectly across their structure, can not accept as much weight as a hardtop.

Side panels and enclosing your Dodger

Both the hardtop and softtop dodgers use canvas constructed side panels. The Hardtop panels tend to be a bit bigger based on the overall size of Hardtops. Panels can be fabricated in either Sunbrella acrylic canvas or PVC Canvas such as Stamoid or Herculite. Window materials vary from polycarbonate, acrylics to clear vinyls. Brands, coatings and thickness vary and can affect both longevity and budget.

Maintenance on a Hardtop Dodger

Hardtop Dodger : The fiberglass hardtop can be easily wiped clean, eliminating possible mold, algae and organic growth. Cleaning the hard top is as straightforward as cleaning the balance of the fiberglass on your boat.

Canvas Dodger : The canvas top is made from fabric, it is susceptible to algae and organic growth and sun damage over it’s life. They must be regularly cleaned in order to minimize degradation of the fabric from the elements.. Often the process of dismantling a dodger to clean the fabric can be a challenging task.

The Abrasion on a Hardtop Dodger

Hardtop Dodger : Because the hardtop surface is precisely molded and rigid, there is no need for a chafe pad to protect from the mainsail canvas rubbing on the top.

Canvas Dodger : Depending on the position of your boom, canvas dodgers often need reinforcement along the top edges to prevent wear and tear where the boom may hit the dodger.

Mounted Handrails on a Hardtop Dodger

Canvas Dodger : While handrails do provide additional support and structure for a canvas dodger, side handles limit the collapsibility of the dodger, can be less sturdy, and are difficult to install or reinstall after maintenance or repairs.

Can My Sailboat Accommodate a Hardtop Dodger?

• Size and type of sailboat
• Width of cockpit and combing
• Depth or coverage of cockpit
• Height profile desired by helmsman
• Overall design and ascetic features

The Canvas Works Hardtop Dodger

Now that you know a little more about the differences between the traditional dodger and a hardtop dodger, you can make an informed decision about which type of dodger is best for you. Whether you find a fabricator in your area or you go with The Canvas Works’ hardtop, here is some additional information to inform your decision. Our fabrication team has the capability to create your dodger from start to finish on site, or we can fabricate just the hardtop to be shipped to you for installation.

How is the Canvas Works Hardtop Dodger Enclosed?

Stanchions and Support Structure : 1-1/4” 316 stainless steel stanchions and supports provide the foundation of the structure. Two sets of handrails on the outer edge of the dodger are mounted opposing one another. The lower set becomes the strut and stanchion attachment point, while the upper rail is a grab handrail.

Windows and Window Frames : Fitted 40 mil Makrolon polycarbonate is semi-rigid, incredibly optically clear and has an industry leading warranty. Covers for the windows are included with each dodger. Serge Ferrari Stamoid Top or Sunbrella Marine fabric window frames add an attractive, finished look and years of service to any dodger panels.

Hardware : Keder welt and track for forward windows which creates even tension along the leading edge of the windows and provides excellent spray and weather resistance. All hardware is top quality hardware, including snaps, lift-a-dot or twist lock fasteners as required by the installation. Whenever possible it is preferable to use a PVC track, welt and zipper attachment system in-lieu of fasteners.

What is the take away from this blog?

While the initial cost of a hardtop dodger is more than a canvas soft top dodger, the difference will be better long term investment for the long life of the hardtop. The Canvas Works designed and engineered our hardtop to serve a variety of boats. With the installation of The Canvas Works hardtop, you will have all of the following to look forward to.

• A dependable structure for peace of mind when cruising
• A strong, robust and durable surface to mount solar panels or hardware
• A low maintenance support structure to withstand harsh weather conditions
• A smooth, cleanable surface that won’t tear, mold or stretch
• A sleek rigid enclosure that provides ultimate protection from the elements

Should you have questions, we welcome the opportunity to hear from you. Give us a call so we can walk you through your next dodger project 413.331.6527 or Inquire Online .

• Call 415.331.6527
• Email [email protected]
• Location The Canvas Works 41c Liberty Ship Way Sausalito, CA 94965

Our standard sprayhoods are made from marine grade acrylic, with 2 windows and provisions for 2 frames with push through sleeves.

Additional windows: £35

Zip sleeve: £15 per meter

Drop down zip window: £60

Frames made from 316 stainless steel, 19mm x 1 mm thick tube bent to suit boat on site: £120+VAt + deck fittings if required per hoop.

Spray hood shown below is a far larger and more complex hood with 3 bars, zip sleeves, side windows, handle bar sleeves, halyards cut outs and lots of hull fittings.

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Sprayhood Gallery

Explore Tecsew’s extensive Sprayhood Gallery to discover a world of bespoke craftsmanship. featuring OEM designs supplied to top UK yacht dealerships and custom solutions crafted for private clients worldwide.

Utilising advanced 3D CAD technology, CNC cutting, and precise Laser scanning that, we deliver Sprayhoods that set the standard for fit, performance, and aesthetic appeal. Experience the difference that precision design and a commitment to quality can make for your yacht.

Tecsew’s proprietary technology, combined with precise boat model scanning, enhances the design and performance of their Sprayhoods, ensuring a superior fit and functionality.

Tecsew has been at the forefront of Sprayhood design since 1984. Their commitment to innovation is evident in the wide distribution of their Sprayhoods, reaching as far as Australia and across continents from Europe to South America.

Highlighting their dedication to quality and precision, Tecsew provides detailed product photography for easy self-fitting and is recognised as a preferred supplier by UK yacht dealerships. Their versatility in Sprayhood manufacturing includes custom designs and adaptations for existing setups, ensuring every yacht owner’s needs are met with expertise.

Versatile UK Sprayhood Makers

We also show designs for replacements for certain production boats – what we call recovers – where the existing frame and fittings are utilised. These boats will have more than one design, but we can usually supply measurements to check we have the correct design on file.

View details of our full range of products and services relating to Sprayhoods and talk through specifications with us, and also discover our dedicated Sprayhood Customisation and Extras page to learn more about our ability to tailor to your every notion.

Contact our enthusiastic, friendly team of boating experts on 02392 556548 to discuss Sprayhood designs and your specific needs today or visit our contact page or use the form at the bottom of this page to submit an enquiry.

Allures 45.9 Sprayhood with multiple extras, ref 9696

Aphrodite 33 Sprayhood

Arcona 370, “Arc en Ceil”, New design 3 bar Sprayhood, ref 6669

Arcona 430 Sprayhood recover for factory fit original, CIDER WITH ROSIE, ref 8794

Astus 22.5 Sprayhood, ref 1244

Bavaria Vision 46, 2013 Sprayhood

Bavaria 30 Sprayhood

Bavaria 30 Sprayhood recover for CJ original, ref 7479

Bavaria 32, 2002 model, replacement Sprayhood canvas for CJ original, WINDSONG, ref 7515

Bavaria 34 Sprayhood

Bavaria 36 Later design Sprayhood, ref 0483

Bavaria 37 Cruiser Sprayhood

Bavaria 37 Cruiser Sprayhood, 2006 model ref 0022

Bavaria 37 Holiday Sprayhood

Bavaria 38 Cruiser Sprayhood recover for CJ original, ref 8462

Bavaria 39 Cruiser Sprayhood, TESSA JANE, ref 8279

Bavaria 42 Cruiser Sprayhood

Bavaria 44 Sprayhood recover, Juba

Bavaria 44 Sprayhood shown with optional Window Blind fitted, ref 0920

Bavaria 46 Cruiser 2005 model, Sprayhood, ref 5529

Bavaria 50 Cruiser Sprayhood recover for CJ original, ref 4952

Bavaria 50 Cruiser, New Tecsew design larger Sprayhood, ref 7957

Bavaria C38 Sprayhood, ref 0655

Bavaria C42 Sprayhood, ref 0064-0032

Bavaria C50 Sprayhood, ref 0538

Bavaria Cruiser 32, 2013 Sprayhood

Bavaria Cruiser 33, 2013 Sprayhood

Bavaria Cruiser 34, 2016 Sprayhood, ref 7052

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40 facts about elektrostal.

Written by Lanette Mayes

Modified & Updated: 02 Mar 2024

Reviewed by Jessica Corbett

Elektrostal is a vibrant city located in the Moscow Oblast region of Russia. With a rich history, stunning architecture, and a thriving community, Elektrostal is a city that has much to offer. Whether you are a history buff, nature enthusiast, or simply curious about different cultures, Elektrostal is sure to captivate you.

This article will provide you with 40 fascinating facts about Elektrostal, giving you a better understanding of why this city is worth exploring. From its origins as an industrial hub to its modern-day charm, we will delve into the various aspects that make Elektrostal a unique and must-visit destination.

So, join us as we uncover the hidden treasures of Elektrostal and discover what makes this city a true gem in the heart of Russia.

Key Takeaways:

• Elektrostal, known as the “Motor City of Russia,” is a vibrant and growing city with a rich industrial history, offering diverse cultural experiences and a strong commitment to environmental sustainability.
• With its convenient location near Moscow, Elektrostal provides a picturesque landscape, vibrant nightlife, and a range of recreational activities, making it an ideal destination for residents and visitors alike.

Known as the “Motor City of Russia.”

Elektrostal, a city located in the Moscow Oblast region of Russia, earned the nickname “Motor City” due to its significant involvement in the automotive industry.

Home to the Elektrostal Metallurgical Plant.

Elektrostal is renowned for its metallurgical plant, which has been producing high-quality steel and alloys since its establishment in 1916.

Boasts a rich industrial heritage.

Elektrostal has a long history of industrial development, contributing to the growth and progress of the region.

Founded in 1916.

The city of Elektrostal was founded in 1916 as a result of the construction of the Elektrostal Metallurgical Plant.

Located approximately 50 kilometers east of Moscow.

Elektrostal is situated in close proximity to the Russian capital, making it easily accessible for both residents and visitors.

Known for its vibrant cultural scene.

Elektrostal is home to several cultural institutions, including museums, theaters, and art galleries that showcase the city’s rich artistic heritage.

A popular destination for nature lovers.

Surrounded by picturesque landscapes and forests, Elektrostal offers ample opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking, camping, and birdwatching.

Hosts the annual Elektrostal City Day celebrations.

Every year, Elektrostal organizes festive events and activities to celebrate its founding, bringing together residents and visitors in a spirit of unity and joy.

Has a population of approximately 160,000 people.

Elektrostal is home to a diverse and vibrant community of around 160,000 residents, contributing to its dynamic atmosphere.

Boasts excellent education facilities.

The city is known for its well-established educational institutions, providing quality education to students of all ages.

A center for scientific research and innovation.

Elektrostal serves as an important hub for scientific research, particularly in the fields of metallurgy, materials science, and engineering.

Surrounded by picturesque lakes.

The city is blessed with numerous beautiful lakes, offering scenic views and recreational opportunities for locals and visitors alike.

Well-connected transportation system.

Elektrostal benefits from an efficient transportation network, including highways, railways, and public transportation options, ensuring convenient travel within and beyond the city.

Famous for its traditional Russian cuisine.

Food enthusiasts can indulge in authentic Russian dishes at numerous restaurants and cafes scattered throughout Elektrostal.

Home to notable architectural landmarks.

Elektrostal boasts impressive architecture, including the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord and the Elektrostal Palace of Culture.

Offers a wide range of recreational facilities.

Residents and visitors can enjoy various recreational activities, such as sports complexes, swimming pools, and fitness centers, enhancing the overall quality of life.

Provides a high standard of healthcare.

Elektrostal is equipped with modern medical facilities, ensuring residents have access to quality healthcare services.

Home to the Elektrostal History Museum.

The Elektrostal History Museum showcases the city’s fascinating past through exhibitions and displays.

A hub for sports enthusiasts.

Elektrostal is passionate about sports, with numerous stadiums, arenas, and sports clubs offering opportunities for athletes and spectators.

Celebrates diverse cultural festivals.

Throughout the year, Elektrostal hosts a variety of cultural festivals, celebrating different ethnicities, traditions, and art forms.

Electric power played a significant role in its early development.

Elektrostal owes its name and initial growth to the establishment of electric power stations and the utilization of electricity in the industrial sector.

Boasts a thriving economy.

The city’s strong industrial base, coupled with its strategic location near Moscow, has contributed to Elektrostal’s prosperous economic status.

Houses the Elektrostal Drama Theater.

The Elektrostal Drama Theater is a cultural centerpiece, attracting theater enthusiasts from far and wide.

Popular destination for winter sports.

Elektrostal’s proximity to ski resorts and winter sport facilities makes it a favorite destination for skiing, snowboarding, and other winter activities.

Promotes environmental sustainability.

Elektrostal prioritizes environmental protection and sustainability, implementing initiatives to reduce pollution and preserve natural resources.

Home to renowned educational institutions.

Elektrostal is known for its prestigious schools and universities, offering a wide range of academic programs to students.

Committed to cultural preservation.

The city values its cultural heritage and takes active steps to preserve and promote traditional customs, crafts, and arts.

Hosts an annual International Film Festival.

The Elektrostal International Film Festival attracts filmmakers and cinema enthusiasts from around the world, showcasing a diverse range of films.

Encourages entrepreneurship and innovation.

Elektrostal supports aspiring entrepreneurs and fosters a culture of innovation, providing opportunities for startups and business development.

Offers a range of housing options.

Elektrostal provides diverse housing options, including apartments, houses, and residential complexes, catering to different lifestyles and budgets.

Home to notable sports teams.

Elektrostal is proud of its sports legacy, with several successful sports teams competing at regional and national levels.

Boasts a vibrant nightlife scene.

Residents and visitors can enjoy a lively nightlife in Elektrostal, with numerous bars, clubs, and entertainment venues.

Promotes cultural exchange and international relations.

Elektrostal actively engages in international partnerships, cultural exchanges, and diplomatic collaborations to foster global connections.

Surrounded by beautiful nature reserves.

Nearby nature reserves, such as the Barybino Forest and Luchinskoye Lake, offer opportunities for nature enthusiasts to explore and appreciate the region’s biodiversity.

Commemorates historical events.

The city pays tribute to significant historical events through memorials, monuments, and exhibitions, ensuring the preservation of collective memory.

Promotes sports and youth development.

Elektrostal invests in sports infrastructure and programs to encourage youth participation, health, and physical fitness.

Hosts annual cultural and artistic festivals.

Throughout the year, Elektrostal celebrates its cultural diversity through festivals dedicated to music, dance, art, and theater.

Provides a picturesque landscape for photography enthusiasts.

The city’s scenic beauty, architectural landmarks, and natural surroundings make it a paradise for photographers.

Connects to Moscow via a direct train line.

The convenient train connection between Elektrostal and Moscow makes commuting between the two cities effortless.

A city with a bright future.

Elektrostal continues to grow and develop, aiming to become a model city in terms of infrastructure, sustainability, and quality of life for its residents.

In conclusion, Elektrostal is a fascinating city with a rich history and a vibrant present. From its origins as a center of steel production to its modern-day status as a hub for education and industry, Elektrostal has plenty to offer both residents and visitors. With its beautiful parks, cultural attractions, and proximity to Moscow, there is no shortage of things to see and do in this dynamic city. Whether you’re interested in exploring its historical landmarks, enjoying outdoor activities, or immersing yourself in the local culture, Elektrostal has something for everyone. So, next time you find yourself in the Moscow region, don’t miss the opportunity to discover the hidden gems of Elektrostal.

Q: What is the population of Elektrostal?

A: As of the latest data, the population of Elektrostal is approximately XXXX.

Q: How far is Elektrostal from Moscow?

A: Elektrostal is located approximately XX kilometers away from Moscow.

Q: Are there any famous landmarks in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal is home to several notable landmarks, including XXXX and XXXX.

Q: What industries are prominent in Elektrostal?

A: Elektrostal is known for its steel production industry and is also a center for engineering and manufacturing.

Q: Are there any universities or educational institutions in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal is home to XXXX University and several other educational institutions.

Q: What are some popular outdoor activities in Elektrostal?

A: Elektrostal offers several outdoor activities, such as hiking, cycling, and picnicking in its beautiful parks.

Q: Is Elektrostal well-connected in terms of transportation?

A: Yes, Elektrostal has good transportation links, including trains and buses, making it easily accessible from nearby cities.

Q: Are there any annual events or festivals in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal hosts various events and festivals throughout the year, including XXXX and XXXX.

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Electrostal History and Art Museum

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