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Best Rolex 2023: how to choose the perfect Rolex to suit your lifestyle

No matter what you do on your weekends, the Geneva watchmaker has you covered

To the casual observer, it is easy to think a Rolex is a Rolex, is a Rolex. Catch a rush-hour Tube on certain London Underground lines and you’ll see near-identical Rolex on the wrists of the suited and booted. 

But dig a little deeper into the Geneva firm’s range, and you’ll discover a broad portfolio of timepieces. We can’t possibly say there is a Rolex for every budget, because you’re never going to get much change from seven or eight thousand, but there’s much more to the brand than classy wristwear to show off in meetings or at dinner.

• T3's guide to the best watches for men
• The best watches under £1000
• 5 best watches to invest in right now

As well as the classics, Rolex offers a ‘professional’ range, which includes timepieces developed for specific careers and hobbies, like yachting, diving, driving and flying.

Here then, is the T3 guide to the best Rolex to suit your lifestyle.

For the traveller: Rolex GMT Master II

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Launched in the mid-1950s and originally designed for airline pilots, the GMT-Master - as its name might well suggest - is a GMT watch. This means that, as well as the regular hour, minute and second hands, it has another hand for telling the time at GMT - that is, Greenwich Meantime, as observed by the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. 

This extra hand rotates around a 24-hour bezel. That way, you can always tell what time it is in your current location, and GMT/UTC - handy when travelling for business or pleasure.

That 24-hour bezel, by the way, is made from extremely hard ceramic, and its blue and red finish gives the GMT Master the nickname of the ‘Pepsi Rolex’. At 40mm, the GMT-Master II is a surprisingly compact timepiece for its design.

• Buy the Rolex GMT Master II at Chronext

For the diver: Rolex Submariner

The Submariner may look similar to the GMT-Master at first glance, but this is an altogether tougher timepiece, capable of being submerged up to 300 metres (1,000 feet). This is a significant improvement on the original Submariner, which was the first watch to be water resistant to a depth of 100 metres when it launched back in 1953.

Being a true diving watch, the Submariner meets the ISO 6425 standard, which means it is not only water resistant to great depths, but is also unfazed by salty seawater, condensation, magnetism, and rapid changes in pressure and temperature.

The watch features a unidirectional, 60-minute rotating bezel to help divers accurately and safely measure how long they have been underwater. The bezel is made from Cerachrom, the same Rolex-developed, corrosion-resistant, ceramic material as on the GMT-Master.

The Submariner has a 41mm diameter case, with a screw-down winding crown, magnified date complication at three o’clock, and an automatic 3235 calibre movement with approximately 70 hours of power reserve.

• Buy the Rolex Submariner at Chronext

For the racing driver: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

Watch just five minutes of the Daytona or Le Mans 24-hour motor races on television, and you’ll no doubt see an advert for the Rolex Daytona. Widely considered the motorsport timepiece, the Cosmograph Daytona has been with us since 1963 and has appeared on the wrists of some of the world’s most successful drivers.

Being a wristwatch intended for motorsport and time-keeping, the Rolex Daytona features a second hand which displays an accurate reading to one-eighth of a second, plus two dials showing elapsed time in hours and minutes.

Additionally, the 40mm non-rotating bezel can be used as a tachymeter, indicating the units per hour of any moving object you care to time. Say you want to work out the average speed of a land-speed record car as it passes through the measured mile (as we are sure all T3 readers do of a weekend). Click the button at two o’clock to start the second hand, then again to stop the hand once the car passes the mile marker; the number pointed at on the bezel is the car’s average speed in miles per hour.

The Rolex Daytona is water resistant to 100 metres and has a long power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

• Buy the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona at Chronext

For the adventurer: Rolex Explorer

The Rolex Explorer is the brand’s most understated steel sports watch, but, for that reason, it's one of our favourites. The Explorer has a rich history, which begins with a Perpetual Oyster that Sir Edmund Hillary's pioneering ascent to Mount Everest in 1953. To commemorate his (and the watch's) achievement, Rolex released the Oyster Perpetual Explorer that same year.

Today, Rolex offers two Explorer models, a 39mm Explorer, and 42mm Explorer II (pictured above). They may looks completely different, but both are designed for extreme environments.

The Explorer's design remains very true to the original, with a black dial, large, legible numerals, and a durable Oyster case.

The Explorer II is an evolution of the original model, growing a few millimeters in diameter and adding a GMT-function, so the wearer can keep track of multiple timezones.

• Buy the Rolex Explorer at Chronext

For the pilot: Rolex Air-King

If flying is your pastime of choice, then the Air-King is the Rolex for you. The watch offers a simple and classically attractive look, with a compact 40mm case, Oyster bracelet and domed bezel. 

To the casual observer, the Air-King looks similar in design to classic Rolex like the Datejust and Day-Date, but there are enough nods to aviation to make it stand out from the corporate-gift and graduation-present crowd.

The watch, which harks back to Rolex’s connection with aviation of the 1930s, features a distinctive black bezel with oversize hour numerals at three, six and nine, separated by smaller minute numerals used for navigational time reading.

The Air-King’s 3131 calibre self-winding mechanical movement has a power reserve of approximately 48 hours, and water resistance is 100 metres.

• Buy the Rolex Air-King at Chronext

For the sailor: Rolex Yacht-Master II

For a Rolex, there’s an awful lot going on here. Described by the Swiss company as a watch appealing to experienced sailors, the Yacht-Master II features a programmable countdown timer with mechanical memory and on-the-fly synchronisation.

What this means, is that skippers can programme the watch to automatically start a countdown of a certain duration, from between one and 10 minutes. That way, they can precisely time and follow the official starting procedure of a boat race. The minutes count down using a fourth hand which sweeps down from a maximum of 10 minutes at seven o’clock, to zero at five o’clock.

Where a watch’s bezel is not normally mechanically linked to its internal mechanism, the Yacht-Master II’s is. This means the wearer can rotate the bezel to set the countdown timer, counting down to the start time of the race.

The Yacht-Master II is a large timepiece (for a Rolex) at 44mm and offers up to 100 metres of water resistance, while the power reserve of its self-winding movement is approximately 72 hours.

• Buy the Rolex Yacht-Master II at Chronext

For the horological connoisseur: Rolex Cellini Moonphase

A member of Rolex’s classic watch collection, the Cellini Moonphase is for those who take their watches seriously, but want a classic look which strays away from shouting about your flying, racing or yachting escapades. Instead, this 18ct rose gold timepiece offers a simple white dial sat inside a subtle 39mm case.

But beneath this simplicity is a brilliantly complex 3295 calibre movement with a moonphase complication which Rolex claims will remain astrologically accurate for 122 years before it requires adjustment.

Appropriately, the full moon present on the face of the Cellini is made from a real piece of meteorite, which moves gradually around the complication as each day of the month passes by. This watch can’t calculate the average speed of your flying mile, or help you keep tabs on your oxygen tanks 1,000 feet below, but it makes up for a lack of features with a hearty dose of elegance and horological sophistication.

• Buy the Rolex Cellini Moonphase at Chronext

For the CEO: Rolex Day-Date

Nothing says you’ve made it more than an all-gold Rolex Day-Date on a matching ‘president’ bracelet. Yes, it’s a bit flashy and perhaps even ostentatious in the wrong company - and we know we knocked corporate Rolex earlier in this article - but it somehow retains more class than other watches in its price bracket.

Even in a less look-at-me spec, the Day-Date is a classically good-looking watch which will never go out of fashion, and will look right at home when poking out from underneath your shirt cuff during that important meeting.

Back in 1956, the Day-Date was a world-first, boasting the ability to show both the day and date (see what they did there?). The day written in full across the 12 o’clock position is a striking but functional complication which for many buyers will feel altogether more useful than a moonphase complication.

Wear a Day-Date, and you’re in some rather high-calibre company. Previous owners include US Presidents Reagan, Nixon, Roosevelt, Ford and Kennedy, along with Roger Federer, Jay-Z, Ellen DeGeneres and Victoria Beckham.

The current model measures a compact 36mm, is water resistant to 100 metres, and has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. 

• Buy the Rolex Day-Date at Chronext

For everyday: Rolex Datejust

The idea of an everyday Rolex perhaps feels like an oxymoron, but we reckon the Datejust fits the bill perfectly. Arguably the quintessential Rolex, the Datejust is the model you are most likely to see out and about. It is highly customisable, with Rolex offering different case sizes and materials, a choice of straps and bezels, and a range of face colours, materials and decoration (by which we mean diamonds, of course).

Case sizes range from 28mm to 41mm, while materials include steel, white gold, yellow gold, or a mixture; dial colours include white, silver, gold, blue, black and pink, and there’s a choice of two bracelet designs and two bezels. All this means the Datejust can be configured to look as at home with your weekend wear, as your business attire, wedding suit, or Sunday best.

First launched in 1945 as the Oyster, the Datejust (which got its current name in 1985) has changed very little over the years. However, in 1955 the mechanism was updated so the date would change instantaneously at midnight instead of slowly changing over several hours beforehand. That year also saw the addition of the famous Cyclops magnification lens over the date complication, which has since become a hallmark of Rolex watch design.

Today’s Datejust is water resistant to 100 metres, features a 3235 calibre, self-winding automatic movement, and has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.

• Buy the Rolex Datejust at Chronext

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Alistair is a freelance automotive and technology journalist. He has bylines on esteemed sites such as the BBC, Forbes, TechRadar, and of best of all, T3, where he covers topics ranging from classic cars and men's lifestyle, to smart home technology, phones, electric cars, autonomy, Swiss watches, and much more besides. He is an experienced journalist, writing news, features, interviews and product reviews. If that didn't make him busy enough, he is also the co-host of the AutoChat podcast.

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Rolex Side-by-Side: GMT Master II vs. Submariner

Rolex has pioneered the development of tool watches since its early years, specifically within the fields of diving and flying. When intercontinental travel became more accessible and widespread, Rolex created the GMT Master for pilots flying through multiple time zones. A year prior, Rolex had engineered the Submariner during the worldwide popularization of sea exploration and diving.

The original GMT Master and Submariner debuted in the early 1950s. Since then, both models have become icons and staples of the Rolex brand. They serve as both functional tool watches and fashionable watches for everyday wear. However, in the 1980s, Rolex made a significant update to the GMT Master, and the GMT Master II was born. Here, we have a side-by-side comparison between the Rolex GMT Master II and the Submariner.

List of Key Differences between the Rolex GMT Master II vs. Submariner

• Bezel Design: The GMT Master II features a 24-hour scale, and the Submariner features a 60-minute scale.
• Hands: The GMT Master II features a fourth GMT hand to display the additional time zone, and the Submariner is a traditional three-hand watch.
• The Movement: The GMT Master II Ref. 116710 features a Caliber 3186 movement, and the Submariner Ref. 116610 features a Caliber 3135 movement.
• Depth Rating: The GMT Master II features a depth rating of 100 meters, and the Submariner features a depth rating of 300 meters.

Bracelet: The GMT Master II features Rolex’s standard Oyster bracelet , and the Submariner features Rolex’s Glidelock extension system.

Key Features of the Rolex Submariner

Rolex released the first Submariner models in 1953 with the Reference 6204, and soon after, Reference 6205. It was a less-sporty dive watch , which quickly set it apart from its other counterparts. It still maintained the dive watch’s key features, like 100 meters of water resistance, luminous markers, and unidirectional rotating bezel. However, Rolex designed it with a dressier aesthetic that could more seamlessly transition from sea to land.

Part of the charm of the Submariner is in its design, which has only seen minor updates since its inception. In the early 1960s, the Reference 5512 introduced two new key features of the Rolex Submariner: an oversized crown and crown guards. Both of these key features of the Rolex Submariner continue to come standard on the model. In the late 1960s, the Reference 1680 helped to solidify the Submariner as both a dress watch and tool watch. It incorporated the addition of two more key features of the Rolex Submariner: a date function and cyclops magnifier.

Key Features of the Rolex GMT Master II

Rolex launched the original GMT Master around the same time as the Submariner. However, the GMT Master II didn’t debut until 1983 with the Reference 16760. There are several key features of the Rolex GMT Master II that set it apart. It showcases a 24-hour hand that allows the wearer to read three different time zones. It also contains a brand new movement with an independent quickset hour hand that adjusts to the local time without disrupting the second hand, minute hand, or 24-hour GMT hand. Finally, the GMT Master II is equipped with an extra thick case and large crown guards. These give the model its affectionate nickname, the “ Fat Lady .”

Over the years, Rolex has continued to modify the design of the GMT Master II with additional key features. They released the slimmer Reference 16710 just five years after the original model. Then, in 2007, the GMT Master II received a complete redesign with the Reference 116710. Its key features include a Triplock crown, anti-reflective cyclops lens, and green 24-hour hand. It also has a maxi dial, ceramic bezel, new bracelet and movement, and Rolex engraving on the inner bezel ring.

Deep Dive Into Key Differences Between the Rolex Submariner and GMT Master II

Now, let’s look at a side-by-side comparison of the Submariner and GMT Master II. Historically, these two models have been quite different watches. However, as the Submariner has received a few modern updates and the GMT Master II has evolved, they’ve become more and more similar. For example, two of the latest models, the Submariner Reference 116610 and the GMT Master II Reference 116710, share more common features than ever before.

Both models feature a 40mm “super case.” This “super case” has thicker lugs and crown guards. In addition, both models have a Triplock winding crown. This feature has been standard on Submariner models for years, but it’s a new addition to the GMT Master II. Finally, both models showcase a 904L Oystersteel construction with 48-hour power reserves.

Despite the similarities, there are still a few key differences when you look at a side-by-side comparison of the Submariner and GMT Master II. Each watch has a unique bezel design. The Submariner features a dive watch bezel with 60-minute scale for use as a dive timer. Alternatively, the GMT Master II features a 24-hour scale for use in conjunction with the GMT hand. The next key difference is the watch hands. The Submariner is a standard three-hand watch displaying hours, minutes, and seconds. Instead, the GMT Master II has a fourth, 24-hour GMT hand to display the additional time zone.

The most significant difference between the two models is the movement. The Submariner Ref. 116610 houses the brand’s venerable Caliber 3135 movement. The 3135 has been a mainstay of the brand since 1988. It’s a standard three-hand, automatic movement. On the other hand, the GMT Master II Ref. 116710 is fitted with the brand’s Caliber 3186 movement. The last two key differences between the Submariner and the GMT Master II are more subtle. Modern iterations of the Submariner feature a higher depth rating of up to 300 meters as opposed to the GMT Master II’s standard 100 meters. Lastly, while both models feature Rolex’s iconic Oyster bracelet, the Submariner’s comes equipped with the brand’s Glidelock extension system. This is particularly handy for divers who need to slip the watch over a wetsuit.

How to Choose Between the Rolex Submariner vs. GMT Master II?

Since their inception, the Submariner and GMT Master II have appealed to two distinct groups of wearers. However, the design of the more recent GMT Master II models more closely mirrors the longstanding design of the Submariner. Now, the two models are more aesthetically similar than ever before. If you look at a side-by-side comparison of the GMT Master II and Submariner, it comes down to functional differences.

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Rolex Submariner vs. Rolex GMT-Master II: Comparative Review

Table of Contents

There’s a seemingly endless GMT vs. Submariner debate among watch enthusiasts. It’s no surprise since these high-quality tool watches are two of Rolex’s standout models. Both have impressive features; the Submariner is primarily for professional drivers, while the GMT Master II is best suited for travelers. 

Considering both these prestigious Rolex models have impressive offerings, choosing between the two can be overwhelming. They have outstanding features, great investment returns, and classic aesthetics. 

But what makes them far too different from each other? Which of them should you buy? Pitting the Rolex Submariner against the Rolex GMT-Master II would be the best way to find out. Learn which Rolex watch suits you through this detailed comparative review. 

Comparison Table: 116610 Sub Date vs. 126710 GMT

The Rolex Submariner and GMT-Master II collections have various models for luxury watch buyers. Among all the models, two watches that are popularly talked about are the Rolex 116610LV Submariner Date and the Rolex GMT-Master II 126710BLNR .

These particular models are noted for their stunning appearance, and for most, they look similar in their features. Of course, the truth is that they come from different Rolex lines. 

The table below will highlight their unique features for you:

Several differences and similarities emerge when comparing the two popular Rolex models.

First and foremost, both watches are strikingly similar, with their cases measuring 40mm in diameter. However, their functionalities differ, as the Submariner is specifically designed for scuba divers. At the same time, GMT-Master II caters to world travelers.

The Submariner 116610LV features a unidirectional rotating bezel, essential for tracking dive times. In contrast, the GMT-Master II 126710BLNR sports a bi directional bezel, allowing users to track two time zones concurrently.

Regarding water resistance, the relatively large sports watch , which is the Submariner, has a 300m depth rating instead of the GMT-Master II’s 100m rating, making the former better suited for professional divers.

Rolex GMT-Master II

The Rolex GMT-Master II is best known for its bi-colored bezel. However, there’s more to it than its widely recognized aesthetics. 

Learn more about why many people are invested in this pure tool watch collection:

Brief History

1954: Introduction of the Rolex GMT-Master (Reference 6542). It was created in collaboration with Pan American Airways to aid pilots in tracking two time zones. It also featured a Bakelite bezel.

1959: The GMT-Master 1675 is introduced, replacing the 6542. This model would see various changes over its long production span, including crown guards and dial modifications.

1983: Introduction of the GMT-Master II (Reference 16760), commonly known as the “Fat Lady” or “Sophia Loren” due to its thicker case. This new model allows the hour hand to be set independently from the GMT hand.

1989: The GMT-Master II 16710 is introduced with the slimmer Caliber 3185 movement (later updated to 3186 ). This model offers various bezel options, including “Pepsi” (blue/red), “Coke” (red/black), and all-black.

2005: The Cerachrom (ceramic) bezel is introduced in GMT watches, making the bezel more scratch-resistant and fade-resistant.

2007: The GMT-Master II with a green 24-hour hand and black ceramic bezel ( Reference 116710LN ) is introduced.

2013: The “Pepsi” bezel makes a comeback, but now in ceramic and exclusively on a white gold model (Reference 116719BLRO).

2018: Rolex releases the GMT-Master II 126710BLRO in stainless steel with a “Pepsi” ceramic bezel, now paired with a Jubilee bracelet. This model is powered by the new Caliber 3285 movement .

2019: Rolex introduces a blue and black “Batman” ceramic bezel variant ( Reference 126710BLNR ) with a Jubilee bracelet.

Design and Aesthetics

Initially for airline pilots in the mid-20th century, the Rolex GMT-Master II’s design elements reflect a deep understanding of the globe-trotter’s needs and the luxurious appeal Rolex is renowned for. 

Over the decades, while its core function has remained consistent, its design and aesthetics have been thoughtfully refined, creating a timepiece that’s both timeless and timely.

• Bi-directional, allowing easy adjustment for a second time zone.
• The iconic “Pepsi” (blue/red), “Coke” (red/black), “Batman” (blue/black), and “ Root Beer ” (brown/black) color combinations are standout design signatures.
• Made of Cerachrom (ceramic) in modern models, offering better scratch and fade resistance.
• The additional GMT hand, often in a contrasting color, stands out, enabling dual time-zone tracking.
• Luminous markers ensure legibility in varying lighting conditions.
• Date window at the watch’s 3 o’clock position with Rolex’s signature “ cyclops ” lens for magnification.

Case & Bracelet:

• Crafted predominantly from Oystersteel, known for its corrosion resistance and sheen.
• The integration of the Triplock winding crown ensures water resistance and durability.
• Contemporary models often come with a Jubilee bracelet, adding a touch of elegance. In contrast, previous models mostly featured the Oyster bracelet.

Color & Material Variations:

• While stainless steel models are popular, Rolex also offers variations in Rolesor (a combination of gold and steel), Everose gold, and white gold, catering to diverse tastes.
• Dials, too, have seen variations in colors and patterns, further diversifying aesthetic choices.

Movement and Precision

The heart of any timepiece is its movement. Let’s take a close look at the Rolex the GMT movement and precision:

Caliber 3085:

• Allowed for the independent setting of the hour hand from the GMT hand.

Caliber 3185/3186:

• Powered the GMT-Master II models like the 16710.
• Introduced refinements and improvements over the 3085, with the 3186 featuring the Parachrom hairspring for greater shock resistance.

Caliber 3285:

• Boasts a power reserve of around 70 hours, significantly improving from previous movements.
• Uses the Chronergy escapement , which increases the movement’s efficiency.
• Features a Parachrom hairspring, offering better resistance to shocks and temperature variations.
• Rolex movements, including those in the GMT-Master II, are COSC certified , ensuring top-notch accuracy.
• The company’s Superlative Chronometer certification promises even stricter standards, with precision of -2/+2 seconds daily.

In-House Manufacturing:

• Rolex is known for its in-house production, ensuring that every movement component, from hairsprings to gears, meets the brand’s stringent quality standards.

Rolex’s meticulous selection and expert utilization of premium materials make the GMT-Master II a pinnacle in luxury watches.

• Oystersteel
• Cerachrom Bezel
• Sapphire Crystal
• Triplock Winding Crown

Price Range

The GMT-Master II isn’t just a Rolex. With it being highly excellent in its function and mechanism, this watch is one of the most coveted timepieces and may sell anywhere between S$15,807 and S$189,544 in a private sales market, according to Watch Charts. 

However, since the price depends on economic and market conditions, these figures may fluctuate at any given time. 

Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Submariner , introduced in 1953, is one of the most iconic dive watches and has undergone various refinements over the decades. Here’s a concise timeline highlighting its evolution:

1953: Introduction of the Rolex Submariner ( Reference 6204 ). Rolex’s first diver’s watch, water-resistant to 100 meters (330 feet).

1954: Introduction of reference 6205 , with subtle changes from the original.

Introduction of Reference 6200, with a larger case and a distinctive “Big Crown.”

1959: Reference 5512 launched with crown guards, giving the Submariner its distinctive modern shape.

1967: Introduction of the Date function in reference 1680, marking the beginning of the “ Sub Date ” models.

1987: The Submariner gets a sapphire crystal and a new movement in reference 16610.

2003: To mark the Submariner’s 50th anniversary, Rolex introduces the Reference 16610LV with a green bezel, soon nicknamed the “Kermit.”

2010: Introduction of the “Submariner Date” 116610LN with a black bezel and the “Submariner Date” 116610LV with a green bezel, commonly known as the “Hulk.”

2017: A new movement, the Caliber 3235 , is used for the date models, while the no-date model gets the Caliber 3230 .

The Rolex Submariner isn’t just a dive watch ; it’s a legend in horological circles. Since its introduction in 1953, it has set the gold standard for diving watches in terms of functionality, durability, and elegance. 

• Traditionally 40mm in size, updated to 41mm in 2020.
• Oystersteel construction ensures corrosion resistance, strength, and a lustrous finish.
• Unidirectional rotatable bezel, essential for divers to safely monitor diving times.
• Earlier models had aluminum bezel inserts; contemporary versions boast the scratch-resistant Cerachrom (ceramic) insert.
• Characteristic minute graduations for the first 15 minutes are crucial for dive timings.
• Highly legible hour markers filled with luminescent material, ensuring readability in the darkest underwater conditions.
• Classic color options include black and blue, with distinct sunburst finishes on some variants.
• The “Mercedes” hour hand a defining feature of the Submariner.
• Sapphire crystal, known for its scratch resistance, protects the dial.
• The “cyclops” lens over the date, a Rolex hallmark, magnifies the date for easy reading.
• Oyster bracelet, designed for durability and comfort. Features the Glidelock system in modern models, allowing for fine adjustments without needing tools.
• Triplock winding crown, ensuring this Rolex professional watch remains waterproof to depths of up to 300m (1,000 feet).

Inside the Rolex Submariner, you’ll find exceptional movements that offer remarkable precision and reliability. Dive deep into its movement and precision:

Caliber 1030:

• Recognized for its durability and accuracy.

Caliber 3135:

• Introduced in the late 1980s and used for several decades.
• Known for its robustness, it became Rolex’s main movement for the Submariner Date models.

Caliber 3235:

• Benefits from Rolex’s Chronergy escapement, increasing efficiency and precision.
• Boasts a power reserve of around 70 hours, a significant enhancement from the previous movements.

Precision & Certification:

• All modern Rolex movements, including those in the Submariner, are certified by COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute), guaranteeing their precision.
• Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer certification goes beyond COSC standards, ensuring an accuracy of -2/+2 seconds daily.

In-House Production:

• Rolex prides itself on in-house manufacturing, ensuring every component of its movements meets the brand’s rigorous standards.

Rolex doesn’t just choose materials for their aesthetic appeal; they are chosen for their resilience, functionality, and longevity assurance. Find out what the Rolex Submariner is mainly composed of:

The Rolex Submariner’s price range varies depending on the specific model, materials used, and market demand. However, Watch Charts states that watches from the Submariner collection have prices ranging from S$12,322 to S$54,421 as of this writing. 

At any moment, these watch values may change. 

Frequently Asked Questions

1. is the rolex gmt-master ii thinner than submariner.

The Rolex GMT-Master II and Submariner share a similar design, but there are differences in their dimensions. The GMT-Master II is indeed slightly thinner than the Submariner. The GMT-Master II measures approximately 12mm in thickness, while the Submariner has a 12.3 to 12.7mm thickness. 

This minor difference in thickness may not be noticeable at first glance but could contribute to the overall comfort on the wrist for some wearers; hence, always refer to a reliable wrist guide so you can determine which of the two models feels more comfortable on the wrist. 

2. Is the Rolex GMT-Master II More Expensive than the Rolex Submariner?

The general price difference between the Rolex GMT-Master II and the Rolex Submariner can vary depending on the model, materials used, and whether it’s a new or pre-owned piece. 

The Rolex GMT-Master II tends to be slightly more expensive than the Submariner. When comparing both models ‘ prices, it is essential to consider factors such as materials, features, and market demand. However, prices can fluctuate, so checking the current market value is always a good idea.

3. Is the Rolex Gmt Same as the Submariner?

While the Rolex GMT and Submariner share some similarities in design and appearance, they are different watches with distinct functions and features. The main difference between the two lies in their functionality:

• Rolex GMT-Master II : Designed for global travelers, the GMT-Master II features a secondary GMT hand and a 24-hour rotating bezel that allow wearers to track multiple time zones simultaneously.
• Rolex Submariner : Originally built for scuba divers, the Submariner has a unidirectional rotating bezel calibrated for 60 minutes and a higher depth rating of 300 meters compared to the GMT-Master II’s 100 meters.

Additionally, the Submariner features a Glidelock extension system on its bracelet. In contrast, the GMT-Master II has a standard Oyster bracelet.

The Rolex GMT Master II and Submariner are two iconic watches that cater to different audience needs. The GMT Master II features a 24-hour bezel scale and distinctive fourth hand, allowing tracking an additional time zone. On the other hand, the Submariner is built with scuba divers in mind, showcasing a 60-minute bezel scale and a traditional three-hand watch design.

Carefully consider these differences and pit them against your style and preferences so you can devise a well-thought-out decision in choosing between the Rolex GMT-Master II and Submariner.

Key Takeaways

• Functionality : The GMT Master II displays multiple time zones. On the other hand, the Submariner is a diver’s watch with a unidirectional bezel featuring a 60-minute scale.
• Bezel Material : The GMT Master II has two-tones, such as the black and blue or red and blue bezel. On the contrary, the Submariner bezel comes either in black or green.
• Water Resistance : The Submariner is rated to withstand water pressure up to 300 meters, while the GMT Master II can handle up to 100 meters.

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There is big news, and there is Rolex big news, and in some ways, ne'er the twain shall meet. At Baselworld this year, Rolex debuted a first for the company: the very first, ever, Rolex delivered on a rubber strap. Now, for most companies this would have little effect on watch enthusiasts other than to evoke (very) tepid interest at best, and boredom at worst – but this is not an ordinary rubber strap, this is an official, designed-and-tested-and-thoroughly-obsessed-over-by-Rolex rubber strap. And thereby hangs a tale.

The Yachtmaster, as we have mentioned in some of our previous coverage , occupies a somewhat particular place in Rolex’s lineup of sports watches; it shares water-resistance and a turning bezel with the Submariner (the latter is water resistant to 300 m while the Yachtmaster standard model is water resistant to 100 m). It is certainly not a tool watch; the Yachtmaster is offered in either platinum and steel, or gold and steel (that’s Rolesium and Rolesor, lest we forget) and is either quietly or unequivocally luxurious depending on what size and metal you go for (Rolex makes the Yachtmaster in both 35 mm and 40 mm sizes). 

The Yachtmaster’s history goes back to the first introduction of the watch in 1992, although the name, interestingly enough, appears on the dial of a prototype Yachtmaster Chronograph from the late 1960s (a watch so legendary I am actually forced to use the word; one of three known is in the collection of Mr. John Goldberger; we covered it – and a host of other remarkable ultra-rare watches from his collection – in a very memorable episode of Talking Watches ).

The term “Yachtmaster” is also, incidentally, used for a certificate of competency in yachting which is issued by the Royal Yachting Association, although we’re unaware of any specific association between the RYA and the Yachtmaster watch.

Now, this newest version of the Yachtmaster does take a few pages from the existing Yachtmaster playbook: 100-meter water resistance, a bidirectional turning bezel, and a dial and hands that echo the Submariner. There are also a couple of features that may make vintage Sub enthusiasts wonder if Rolex mightn’t have an exceedingly subtle sense of humor; the gilt coronet and “Rolex,” and the red lettering, both features which according to HODINKEE founder Ben Clymer would have, had they appeared on a Rolex dive watch, made it instantly the single most popular watch in the modern Rolex inventory. The case is rose gold – Rolex famously makes their own, called Everose, in their own foundry, with a bit of platinum mixed in to prevent discoloration – and the bezel, rather than being some other precious metal (as is the case in the “standard” Yachtmasters) is in black Cerachrom – a very technical-looking matte black that contrasts sharply with the gold case. Somehow, between the rose gold, the Cerachrom bezel, and the new Oysterflex bracelet this manages to be the most luxurious and at the same time most technical Yachtmaster yet (leaving aside the Yachtmaster II, which we recently reviewed right here , but that is a watch that marches to the beat of a different drummer entirely).

The two different versions of the Everose Yachtmaster (40 mm and 37 mm) sport different movements; the larger uses the caliber 3135 and the smaller, the newer 2236, which sports the “Syloxi” silicon balance spring (first used by Rolex in 2014).

The Oysterflex bracelet is, in a nutshell, quite a piece of work. One of the most endearing traits of Rolex as a company is that it tends to demonstrate what we can only describe as a laudable degree of corporate obsessive-compulsive disorder when it comes to research and development, and it does so, often, without making any sort of fanfare about it at all. In this case we do know a little bit about the Oysterflex, however – it is basically designed to have the hypoallergenic and comfort properties of a rubber strap and the durability and shape-retention properties of a bracelet. 

At the core of the Oysterflex bracelet are metal inserts made of titanium and nickel, which are used to affix the bracelet to the clasp and watch case; over those is a sheathing of “high-performance black elastomer.” “Elastomer” is a portmanteau word, formed from “elastic” and “polymer” and is a general term for natural and synthetic rubbers. In addition to the materials complexity of the Oysterflex bracelet, it is also shaped in a rather unusual fashion – there are ridges molded into the the wristward face of the bracelet, which are intended to allow the bracelet when worn to better approximate the natural curvature of the wrist.

They might look a bit odd but in practice, the design works out quite wonderfully; this is easily the most downright comfortable and organic-feeling rubber strap I have ever worn, and like the entire watch manages to be both extremely technical in feel, and very luxurious at the same time; I doubt whether any company has ever taken so much trouble over the design of a strap (for all that Rolex prefers the term “bracelet” in describing the Oysterflex, habit dies hard and you’ll probably find yourself calling it a strap, just as we did). On the wrist, the two stabilizing ridges do exactly what they are supposed to: keep the watch from shifting, as heavier watches on rubber straps are wont to do, without requiring you to have the strap uncomfortably tight. The Everose Oysterlock clasp does a superb job mechanically and also looks fabulous into the bargain; the quality of finish on the clasp and case may not seem terribly elaborate at first, but it is as technically flawless as anything I have ever seen at any price, on any watch.

What we have here, in other words, is a very Rolex interpretation of luxury. Yes, this is a gold watch, and a gold Rolex, and wearing a gold Rolex always carries with it, shall we say, certain semiotic complexities. However there is also another side to the watch, and to the Rolex approach to luxury in general: the taking of such pains to produce technical perfection that technical perfection becomes a luxury in itself.

The Everose Rolex Yachtmaster, in Rolex Everose, with Everose Oysterclasp and Oysterflex bracelet, as shown, $22,000 in 37 mm, and $24,950 in 40 mm. For more info, check out Rolex.com.

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Which one would you pick

Yachtmaster 1 blue.

• Total voters 37

Poll: Yachtmaster 1 VS GMT II

• Add to quote

I got the GMT...I like that YM, platinum bezel.....that blue...it is a beautiful watch.  

I love the blue, but there is something about that bezel that doesn't deliver what the other SUB/GMT/SD etc do. Feel me? Dilemma.  

lol...looks like a bezel used on many $20.00 watches. But it is platinum, not a cheap steel bezel.  

Hmmmm....I just voted for the GMT, but I'm already having second thoughts. That is a beautiful blue dial....  

This was a bit of a clash of titans but the GMT won out - just.  

My girlfriend just got the platinum dialed 35mm Yachtmaster, and I was blown away by how nice the platinum bezel looks in person, especially in natural sunlight. I was never a fan of the YM at all, but that polished/bead blasted platinum on the bezel just looks spectacular, and has a shimmering effect in the light that white gold or SS simply do not have. I recently checked out the mens 40mm in blue, pictured above, and that watch is awesome, one of my favorite blue dials I've seen. For a watch that was never on my radar, that blue YM may be my next piece, that gets my vote!  

Yachtmaster. The GMT looks very similar to the sub. The yachtmaster stands apart from the crowd.  

I have always had problems connecting with the YM bezel as others have mentioned so I'd go for GMT2. although I really like the YM2 even though it's a bit busy.  

The 116710 Ceramic GMT. That was too easy!  

I voted GMT but ONLY a BLNR. Otherwise that blue YM looks great!  

I can't vote in my phone, but feel they are both beautiful watches, you really can't go wrong, but gun to my head I guess I would say YM  

GMT! All the way - blue dials are too polarizing imo and I like the white dial yachtmaster better anyway  

When I saw that YM in person I was very impressed with the dial, so it gets my vote. I don't really care about the platinum bezel (just looks like steel to me), but the dial is worth the extra cost in my opinion.  

I would vote for the GMT due to the fact that a platinum bezel will scratch like a DJ from the early 90's Wiggy Wiggy . Further, the fact that it has both frosted and polished parts would probably accentuate every little scuff. Also, I am biased.  

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GMT, because I like the GMT function, and I prefer the black bezel  

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Undecided between a Rolex Yacht-Master or Submariner? Here is our guide:

Yacht-Master vs Submariner

Both the Yacht-Master and the Submariner are inextricably linked to Rolex’s rich heritage in developing expert waterproofing technology. Over the last few years Rolex has focussed significantly on its Yacht-Master collection. Since 2015 they have created the Everose version and equipped models with the new Oysterflex bracelet. Likewise, the Submariner has received several modifications since it first launched in 1953, namely its improvement in water resistance. Let’s take a look at how the Yacht-Master and the Submariner fair up to one another in this comparison article which looks into the materials, functions, and performance of each watch.

Presenting the Yacht-Master:

The Yacht-Master is a luxury sports watch that launched in 1992 in an 18k yellow gold case. Since then, ladies’ models have accompanied these rugged timekeeping tools as well as several innovative features like the mid-size man’s model and the Rolesium case, crafted from a mix of Rolex’s 904-L grade stainless steel and 905 platinum. The blend of metals further enhances the model’s luxurious aesthetic, enabling the elements on the dial and bezel to stand out with exquisite luster and luminosity.

Yacht Master

Reference: 268621

Case/Dial: 37mm Oystersteel and 18 ct Everose gold , Black 10 bar (100 metres / 330 feet)

Movement: Rolex 2236, Self-winding

Functions: Date, Calendar, Stop seconds , 55h power reserve

Strap: Oystersteel and 18 ct Everose gold

Style: Elegant

Presenting the Submariner:

The Submariner was introduced in 1953. The diver’s watch was an extension of the brand’s success in creating the world’s first waterproof and dustproof watch – the Oyster. It used the same structure as the Oyster case and was equipped with 100-meter water resistance, setting the benchmark for all diver’s watches to follow. Over the last 2 decades, the Submariner has tripled in price and remains a highly desirable model to own from the brand’s prestigious catalog.

Reference: 116613LB

Case/Dial: 40mm Oystersteel and yellow gold , Blue 300 metres / 1,000 feet

Movement: Rolex 3135, Self-winding

Functions: Date, Calendar. Stop-seconds for precise time setting. , 48h power reserve

Strap: Oystersteel and yellow gold

Case and Bracelet:

The Submariner watch is a 40mm model, enabling it to sit comfortably on the arm without overpowering the wrist. It’s a great timepiece for pairing with sporty or casual attire. The case is crafted from stainless steel, featuring a monobloc middle case, a screw-down case back and a screw-down crown. The crown is integrated with the Triplock triple waterproofness system developed by Rolex. It features three sealed zones to offer the best water damage protection over the watch’s movement. The top of the watch is completed with anti-reflective sapphire crystal glass and the watch’s unidirectional rotating bezel is crafted from Cerachrom ceramic, which prevents the surface of the colored bezel from scratching and fading. The unidirectional rotating bezel has 60-minute graduations coated in platinum. Available in green, blue and black, these bezels match their respective dial colors. The case of the Submariner is also available in 18k white gold, 18k yellow gold, steel or a bi-color steel & 18k yellow gold option. The Rolex Yacht-Master is available in a 37mm, 40mm, and a 42m case size. The 37mm version features a steel case with Everose bezel and bracelet links, the 40mm variations are available in a Rolesium (steel and platinum case) and an 18k Everose case with black bezel. The 42mm version is crafted from white gold with a black bezel. There are black dials and dark rhodium dials to choose from within this collection – each one equipped with a cyclops date at 3 o’clock. The 37mm and 40mm Everose watches have a matching rose gold second hand, and like the Submariner, the dial is protected by a sapphire glass lens. The Yacht-Master’s bezel is bidirectional with 60-minute graduations that are raised and polished to stand out clearly. The Yacht-Master is 100-meter water-resistant compared to the Submariner’s 300-meter water-resistant case.

The Submarine is powered by the calibers 3135 and 3130. Both offer a 48-hour power reserve and perform at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The Caliber 3135 has received modifications since it was first developed. It is now COSC-certified and features a Paramagnetic Parachrom hairspring for enhanced mechanical efficiency.

Some Rolex Yacht-Masters are powered by the in-house Caliber 3235, which provides a longer 70-hour power reserve compared to the Submariner. It beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour. Others are powered by the Caliber 2236 with a Syloxi hairspring in silicon and high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers. It provides a 55-hour power reserve.

Both the Submariner and Yacht-Master watches feature Superlative Chronometer tested movements, meaning that they have undergone a set of stringent tests to prove their robustness, reliability, and strength under extreme conditions.

Bracelet and Clasp:

The Submariner and Yacht-Master differ in terms of their bracelets. The Yacht-Master 40mm Everose and 42mm white gold options are completed on an Oysterflex bracelet with features flexible metal blades protected underneath a high-performance elastomer. To secure around the wrist, the band features an Oysterlock safety clasp and Glidelock extension facility, enabling you to attach the bracelet over the top of heavy outdoor gear. The other Yacht-Master watches come on an Oyster bracelet with Glidelock system. The Submariner is completed on the Oyster bracelet (in options of steel, 18k yellow gold, 18k white gold or bi-color options), with a folding Oysterlock safety clasp and Glidelock extension clasp for expanding in small increments.

The Rolex Yacht-Master watch is more expensive than the Submariner, retailing at around $12,000 as opposed to the Submariner’s $8000 price tag. On the preowned market, however, both watches sell for a similar price point since the Submariner holds its value better compared to the Yacht-Master.

Still Undecided:

The Yacht-Master, despite being available in luxurious Everose and platinum versions, has a sportier aesthetic compared to the rugged look of the Submariner, especially since some models are completed on the Oysterflex bracelet as opposed to a 3-piece Oyster bracelet. It also features a clear dial surrounded by a bidirectional rotating bezel with highly legible markers. The Submariner, on the other hand, is more suitable for diving since it features a unidirectional rotating bezel that will enable you to keep track of remaining dive time and better water resistance. It offers a short power reserve, however, and goes without the addition of the sportier Oysterflex bracelet.

Comparision Table

Ref.124060 vs ref.126622, find out more:.

Check the official site  here  for more information.

Submariner 126610ln

Reference: 126610ln

Case/Dial: 41mm Steel , Black 300

Movement: 3235, Self-winding

Functions: Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Instantaneous date with rapid setting. Stop-seconds for precise time setting , 70h power reserve

Strap: Steel

Style: Diver

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New Rolex Watches for 2023: Everything You Need to Know

Major releases and bold moves take the watch world by surprise.

By Zen Love

If you thought Rolex was conservative, think again. With this year’s releases, unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva , the brand resoundingly rebuffed its reserved reputation. It introduced major new products that broke with the codes we’ve come to expect from the brand — thrusting into 2023 with new materials, movements and colorways. Catch up on the most important announcements below.

This story covers watches that Rolex either launched or discontinued in 2023. For a full breakdown of the all the Rolex watches still in production, read our other guide , updated for 2023.

The Yacht-Master 42 is the titanium Rolex we were waiting for

The new Yacht-Master 42 is a big deal: it’s not the first serially produced Rolex watch in full titanium but it’s the first one meant for the masses — that is, that’s sized to be wearable as an everyday watch rather than affordable or necessarily easy to actually buy.

Monochromatic like a Submariner and on a full titanium bracelet, it also makes the Yacht-Master collection feel more like the true, purpose-built sport watches for which Rolex is most loved. Now that the brand has broken the seal on titanium, other favorites could be in the pipeline, too.

The Perpetual 1908 is a completely new line (replacing the Cellini)

The Cellini is dead; long live the Cellini. Seemingly in its place is a new, much simpler collection called Perpetual 1908. That’s right, an entirely new Rolex collection — and yet, it’s clearly replacing the Cellini with a very similar case and bezel.

Its dial is simple with a seconds subdial at 9 o’clock recalling some the brand’s earliest models, and its movement is completely new — and visible through a display caseback, another departure for the brand. It has an observatory or Breguet-style hour hand, a 39mm case and only comes in precious metals with a couple different dial options. This is now easily Rolex’s dressiest watch.

The Daytona got redesigned details and a new movement

The Daytona is one of the most hyped watches in the world, and it turns 60 this year. Something special to mark the occasion was expected, and that turned out to be some subtle but substantive tweaks. The new generation has a completely new movement, the first time the brand has updated the Daytona’s movement since it went in-house in 2000.

At first glance, it looks the same as the outgoing generation, but on closer inspection you’ll see some differences. The case is still 40mm but has updated details, and the dial has a “new graphic balance.” Like the new 1908 watch, the platinum version features a display caseback. And, yes, there are also new steel versions with black and white dials.

The Explorer now also comes in a 40mm version

First it was 36mm, then it was 39mm, then it was 36mm again — and now it’s 40mm. The 36mm version introduced only two years ago isn’t going away, but the new watch is simply adding more options.

Based on Rolex’s teaser video , we thought we might be getting an entirely new case design or might even come in titanium, but this really is the familiar Explorer in Oystersteel in a slightly bigger case. We’re okay with that.

The new GMT Master II introduces a completely new bezel color combo

The GMT Master II now comes with a new bezel combo of black and gray. This kind of thing might be Rolex’s big release in a typical year, but the brand has really gone all out for 2023.

The new GMT Master II references only come in two-tone (“Rolesor,” or a steel-and-gold combo) and full yellow gold. Many GMT Master II watches get nicknames based on their bicolor bezels; for this one, we humbly suggest “Dark Knight.”

The Sky-Dweller got a movement upgrade

The Sky-Dweller got some new variants and a movement upgrade with the Calibre 9002 (featuring minor updates from the 9001). That’s it; nothing major for this line, but we do like the way it looks with a green dial in Rolesor Oystersteel and white gold, as shown above.

Wild Dials on Day-Dates and Oyster Perpetuals

Rolex often includes a few exotic dials in the mix of its releases. This time the brand got a bit artistic with some of very colorful executions in the Oyster Perpetual and Day-Date families with dials executed in lacquer. The colorful circles on the dial, which Rolex calls “bubbles,” can be found on versions of the Oyster Perpetual in 31mm, 36mm and 41mm models. The Day-Date got a similar treatment but with puzzle pieces instead of bubbles and goes a step further in playfulness incorporating emojis into the date display (like hearts) and positive words (“Happy,” “Eternity,” “Gratitude,” “Peace,” “Faith,” “Love” and “Hope”) instead of the day of the week.

Cellini, Yacht-Master II and Milgauss are discontinued

Rolex giveth and Rolex taketh away. You don’t need to shed a tear for these long neglected and somewhat overshadowed collections. They’re gone for now, but that just leaves room for the possibility that they’ll return in the future with the likes of new generations. Well, that seems like a possibility for the Milgauss, anyway; the Cellini seems to have its replacement in the 1908, as mentioned above. As for the Yacht-Master II… who knows? A watch being discontinued can even lead to a boost in interest for it, after all.

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The Rolex Submariner v.s. The Rolex GMT: a Comparison

When it comes to luxury watches, few brands are as well-known and respected as Rolex. The brand has been producing high-quality timepieces for over a century, and it's no surprise that many of its watches have become iconic. Two of the most popular models from Rolex are the Submariner and the GMT-Master. Both watches are highly sought-after by collectors and enthusiasts alike, but they have some distinct differences. In this article, we'll take a closer look at these two watches, and help you decide which one might be the best fit for you. The Rolex Submariner is a classic dive watch that was first introduced in 1953. It's known for its durability, functionality, and timeless design. The Submariner features a 40mm case and a unidirectional bezel that allows divers to track their dive time. The watch is water-resistant up to 300 meters, and it's powered by Rolex's in-house caliber 3130 movement. The Submariner is available in a variety of different materials, including stainless steel, yellow gold, and white gold. The Rolex GMT-Master, on the other hand, is a watch that was specifically designed for pilots. The GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) in the name refers to the watch's ability to display two different time zones at once. The watch features a 24-hour hand that can be set independently of the main hour hand, allowing the wearer to easily read the time in two different time zones. The GMT-Master also features a 40mm case and a bi-directional bezel with a 24-hour scale. It's powered by Rolex's in-house caliber 3186 movement and it's water-resistant up to 100 meters. When it comes to design, the Submariner and the GMT-Master have some similarities. Both watches feature a colored dial with luminescent hands and markers, and both have a classic, timeless look. However, the GMT-Master also features a red and blue "Pepsi" bezel, which gives the watch a more distinct look. Another key difference between the two watches is the materials they are available in. The Submariner is available in stainless steel, yellow gold, and white gold, while the GMT-Master is typically only available in stainless steel and yellow gold. When it comes to functionality, the Submariner is designed for diving and the GMT-Master is designed for travel. The Submariner's unidirectional bezel is perfect for tracking dive time, while the GMT-Master's bi-directional bezel and 24-hour hand make it easy to read two different time zones at once. In conclusion, the Rolex Submariner and the GMT-Master are both iconic watches that are highly sought-after by collectors and enthusiasts alike. The Submariner is a classic dive watch that is known for its durability, functionality, and timeless design. The GMT-Master, on the other hand, is a watch that was specifically designed for pilots, and it's known for its ability to display two different time zones at once. If you're looking for a watch that's perfect for diving, the Submariner is an excellent choice. If you're looking for a watch that's perfect for travel, the GMT-Master is a great option. At Wrist Aficionados, we are excited to offer a wide range of Rolex watches at our locations in New York, Miami, and Beverly Hills.

New York Location 19 E 62nd St. New York New York, NY 10065 (212) 422-2600 Open Monday through Friday 10 AM - 6 PM

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Beverly Hills Location Waldorf Astoria Hotel 9850 Wilshire Blvd Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (310) 294-6305 Open Seven Days a Week 10 AM - 8 PM

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Rolex Yacht-Master VS Yacht-Master II.

A detailed comparison on these two luxurious Rolex sport watches.

The Yachtmaster II and Yachtmaster 40mm are both great sports watches especially with professional sailors and yacht racers. They both are classy and sporty at the same time. But what are the key differences and what makes these two watches special in their own way? Have a look below at a detailed description of the differences.

Rolex Yacht-Master VS Yacht-Master II

Let's take a look at one of the latest and most spoken about Rolex Yachtmaster watches, the 116655. This watch is a special watch for many reasons. Namely, this is a historical landmark for Rolex since it is the first Rolex watch to ever use a rubber strap. Most people wouldn't bat an eye at the idea of a Rolex with a rubber strap so why the fuss? This is not any typical rubber strap. Rolex has been raving about this new rubber Oysterflex bracelet which is not only very comfortable to wear, it is also hypoallergenic.

The research and development team at Rolex has engineered a bracelet that is as easy to wear as a rubber bracelet but also holds its shape like a metal bracelet. They do this by using nickel-and-titanium inserts inside the band. They also instituted a patented shape on the inside of the bracelet which has a cushioning system built-in to it which allows the bracelet to take the natural shape of a wrist making the Oysterflex possible the most comfortable rubber watch band. An Oysterlock safety clasp keeps the watch from opening and looks stunning in 18ct Everose gold. Everose gold is a patented 18kt pink gold alloy that is unique to Rolex watches and has been used with all their pink gold oyster cases since 2005.

You'll also find a black matte Cerachrom dial which is a hardened ceramic material that is a tough and highly scratch resistant material that has anticorrosive properties and is impervious to discoloration from exposure to Ultra Violet rays. Perfect for spending your days relaxing on the deck of a luxury yacht.

The dial on the Rolex Yacht-Master 116655 with its cyclops date magnifier could be passed as that of a Submariner if it weren't for all the Everose gold used. You can find this material used on the rims of the index hour markers, the Rolex logo, and luminous filled hands. You won't find rose gold on the dial of any watch in the Submariner series (yet?). The combination of black and Everose gold is a real eye-grabber giving this the look of a really luxurious watch.

What's running inside this stunning watch? The Yacht-Master 40mm runs off an automatic Rolex perpetual movement, the Rolex caliber 3135. This 31 jewel movement beats at 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of about 50 hours.

Rolex Yachtmaster II

At a glance, this watch is an impressive piece of eye-candy with a polished case and two-tone rose gold and stainless steel bracelet. The design used vibrant colors from the blue Cerachrom bezel to the rose gold pushers and patented Triplock crown. The white dial is equally full of harmonic colors with blue steel hour, minute and subdial seconds hands and rose gold and red chronograph hands. A rose gold rimmed sub-dial and applied rose gold rimmed index hour markers tie it all together.

A unique feature of the Yachtmaster II is the regatta chronograph and features the world's first mechanical programmable countdown with a memory. You can accurately sync the watch with the starting sequence of a yacht race.

Unlike most bezels which don't operate as a component of the movement, the easy-to-use and bi-directional Ring Command bezel on the Yachtmaster II operates in conjunction with the regatta chronograph as an integral component of the movement. This bezel is the method in which you can synchronize the countdown timer to the start times of a race. Each time you press the button you can adjust the timer by one-minute increments for up to a 10-minute countdown timer. When you adjust the rotating bezel back to its default middle position, it resets the chronograph back to its main function.

This COSC certified Swiss chronometer is the self-winding caliber 4161 automatic movement beats at 28,800 vph and is completely manufactured by Rolex. This movement features the Rolex antimagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. After receiving a COSC certified chronometer certification, the movement the goes through a thorough in-house chronometric testing once installed into a watch case. Once the watch achieves a precision of -2/+2 seconds per day in the case, it gets a Rolex Superlative Chronometer designation. Even with all these mechanical features, the 31 jewel caliber 4161 movement holds its power for 72 hours.

Rolex Yacht-Master VS Yacht-Master II - Side By Side Comparison

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What’s the Difference Between the Rolex GMT-Master and the GMT-Master II?

In this Rolex buying guide, we answer the age-old question, what is the difference between the GMT Master and GMT Master II?  There’s no denying that there are plenty of similarities between both models.  They both have dual-time capabilities with a 24-hour bezel and an extra hand on the dial.  If you weren’t a very experienced collector, it might be hard to tell the difference without holding the actual watches in your hands or paying close attention to the finer details.  However, there are many differences between the GMT Master and GMT Master II, both in form and function.  Let’s take a detailed look at one of the most iconic models, the Rolex GMT-Master Watch .

Manufacturing Periods & Reference Numbers: GMT-Master vs. GMT-Master II

To simplify the matter, let’s first look at the production years of each watch.  Unsurprisingly, the Rolex GMT-Master came first, with its official release in 1955. As many of you probably already know, the Rolex GMT-Master was built as a tool watch for Pan Am pilots to keep track of two time zones simultaneously as they traveled greater distances across the globe.

To do this, Rolex furnished the GMT-Master with a pair of center hour and minute hands to indicate the local time along with an extra 24-hour hand to display a second time zone by pointing to the 24-hour-marked rotating bezel.

Rolex manufactured four generations of the GMT-Master watch with the following reference numbers and production periods:

• GMT-Master ref. 6542: 1954-1959
• GMT-Master ref. 1675/x: 1959-1980
• GMT-Master ref. 1675x: 1981-1988
• GMT-Master ref. 16700: 1988-1999

On the other hand, Rolex unveiled the GMT-Master II collection in 1982. Although the GMT-Master II would eventually completely replace the GMT-Master collection, there was some overlap in manufacturing among the two collections in the 1980s and 1990s because ref. 16700 offered a more affordable price than the newly-minted GMT Master II and was still widely sought-after.

There are also four generations of the GMT-Master II to date:

• GMT-Master II ref. 16760: 1982 – 1988
• GMT-Master II ref. 16710: 1989-2007
• GMT-Master II ref. 11671x: 2007 – present
• GMT-Master II ref. 12671x: 2018 – present

Key Features of the GMT-Master:

Key features of the gmt master ii, functionality: gmt-master vs. gmt-master ii.

At first glance, the GMT-Master and the GMT-Master II may look like the same watch, but if you look under the hood, you’ll soon see that the biggest difference between the two models is the type of functionality the movements inside the watches offer.

As we previously mentioned, the GMT-Master allows wearers to read two time zones simultaneously. Conversely, the GMT-Master II permits the reading of three separate time zones. Rolex made this possible by making the 24-hour hand independent from the center hour and minute hands.

Therefore, the center hands indicate local time, the 24-hour hand can move freely around the dial to point to the 24-hour bezel for a second time zone, and turning the rotating bezel in either direction can tell the time in a third time zone.

Design and Materials: GMT-Master vs. GMT-Master II

Depending on the specific reference and production period, there are stainless steel, two-tone yellow gold and stainless steel, and full yellow gold versions of the GMT-Master. Furthermore, depending on the watch’s case material, there are a few different bezels to choose from, including (on very early models) Bakelite blue and red bezels, aluminum blue and red bezels, aluminum black bezels, aluminum brown and beige bezels, aluminum brown bezels, and aluminum blue bezels (very rare). Both Oyster and Jubilee bracelets are found on GMT-Master watches.

To confuse the matter even more, the luminous material used on the dial will also vary depending on the year produced.  Radium was used in very early editions of the first GMT Master ref. 6542.  However, Rolex soon replaced it with Tritium after discovering just how dangerous Radium lume was. Luminova replaced Tritium around the late 1990s.

Alternatively, Rolex has offered the GMT-Master II watch in many more material options: stainless steel, Yellow Rolesor pairing yellow gold with stainless steel, Everose Rolesor pairing Everose gold with stainless steel, solid white gold, solid yellow gold, and solid Everose gold. What’s more, bezel options are more varied too. Early in the GMT-Master II history, bezels were crafted in aluminum, available in red and blue, black and red, brown, and just black.

However, starting in 2007, Rolex began fitting the GMT-Master II watches with Cerachrom ceramic bezels. Today, there are red and blue, black and blue, black and brown, and black ceramic bezels available within the GMT-Master II collection.  Current production models only feature the two-tone bezel variations.  The all-black ceramic bezel option was recently discontinued alongside ref. 116710.  Only time will tell if it makes a comeback.

Plus, Rolex has also made ultra-luxurious versions of the GMT-Master II watches with gem-set Serti dials and bezels using precious stones such as diamonds, sapphires, and rubies. Depending on the specific reference number, GMT-Master II watches come with either an Oyster bracelet or a Jubilee bracelet.  Lastly, the GMT Master II has employed nearly every luminescent material used by Rolex during its production run, including Tritium, Luminova, Superluminova, and, finally, Chromalight.  Chromalight is the latest and greatest lume offered by Rolex, praised by the brand for its stark white appearance in the light and bright blue glow in the dark.

Rolex Nicknames

Many of the GMT Master and GMT Master II watches received a nickname from the general public for their color scheme, including Coke (red/black), Pepsi (red/blue), Root Beer GMT Master (brown/beige), Root Beer GMT Master II (brown/black), Blueberry (all blue), and Batman (black/blue).  Other charming nicknames include the Pussy Galore ref. 6542 named after its association with the James Bond character and the Sophia Loren/Fat Lady, a name it earned after the thicker case.

The Transition From GMT-Master To GMT-Master II

At the turn of this century, Rolex focused exclusively on making the GMT-Master II collection and discontinued production of the GMT-Master models. And Rolex continues to enhance their famed pilot watch line with new models, materials, and calibers as we continue to see year after year.  It’s clear that this is one Rolex watch that will continue to soar for decades to come.

Key Takeaways: GMT Master vs. GMT Master II

For the sake of brevity, this overview will only include 5-digit GMT Master models and newer and serves to highlight the main differences between the two collections.  Scroll up for a more detailed listing of the key features of the GMT Master and GMT Master II.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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What’s the Difference? The Rolex Explorer II Vs. The Rolex GMT-Master II

Until relatively recently, a Rolex watch with a GMT complication represented the brand at its most complex. The relentless pursuers of perfect three-hand simplicity have traditionally steered away from additional functions, with a dual time zone or a chronograph’s stopwatch seemingly as far as they were willing to push it.

Lately, things have started to change over in Geneva. Consider the Yacht-Master II’s outrageously impressive regatta timer and the Sky-Dweller’s annual calendar (alongside its own unorthodox GMT feature). But for years, if you wanted a Rolex that could tell you the time both here and there, you had two choices, the Rolex GMT-Master or the Rolex Explorer II .

Travel Companions

However, while both watches have always had the all-important fourth hand needed to track a second time zone, the Explorer II was not a true GMT watch for the first few years of its life.

The two ranges have shared a movement throughout their respective runs, right up until the most modern iteration.

At the start of the GMT-Master’s life back in 1953, the 24-hour hand was linked to the 12-hour hand, without the ability to be set independently. The regular hour hand simply went round the dial twice a day, whereas the GMT hand was geared to only do it once.

It got over these shortcomings by bringing the bezel into play. Engraved with all 24 hours, the wearer simply rotated the surround until the extra hour hand pointed to the right time for the second zone they wanted to track. To give a bit of extra help, they split the bezel into two colors, representing night and day.

The Explorer II, launched in 1971, used the same caliber as the GMT of that era, the Cal. 1575. But its static bezel meant it was basically little more than an AM/PM indicator.

Right Tools for the Job

The reason for the difference in functionality was the two vastly dissimilar markets the watches were being targeted at. The GMT-Master was originally built in conjunction with a team from Pan American Airways as an aid to both pilots and passengers in combatting the effects of jetlag.

The increasingly popular transatlantic routes the airline was running had succeeded in making the world that little bit smaller. However, crossing several time zones was playing havoc with globetrotter’s internal body clocks. Studies had shown that being aware of both local and home time went some way in overcoming many of the psychological symptoms. As a result, the GMT-Master quickly became a practical tool. Also, with its unusual bi-color bezel, an aesthetically distinctive success story.

The Dark Horse in Rolex’s Stable

The Explorer II, on the other hand, had a far more specific remit. As the name suggests, Rolex aimed it at those who ventured out, or down, into the unknown. Spelunkers, or cave divers, can spend days underground mapping subterranean caverns. As a result, losing track of whether it is day or night is pretty much guaranteed. Arctic adventurers face similar problems. At the poles, the sun barely rises in the winter, and in the summer it never sets. This lead to a great deal of disorientation. The bright orange 24-hour hand on the Explorer II, along with its extra rugged stainless steel construction and luminescent markings every 2 ½ minutes, was designed to help deal with the effects.

Yet, because of its somewhat limited demographic and its lack of functionality compared with the GMT-Master, the Explorer II was, and has always been, the also-ran; the dark horse in the Rolex stable.

The Fat Lady Sings

The next step, for both watches, was obvious, but it was a long time coming. It wasn’t until 1983, some 30 years after the range made its debut, that the first GMT-Master II arrived. Although the original series was still running, this new ‘sequel’ was driven by a next generation caliber that finally uncoupled the two hour hands. Now both could be positioned however the wearer wanted. It even meant that a third time zone could be displayed by reading it off the bezel.

The extra components required to run the complication gave the Cal. 3085 a bit of extra bulk, leading to the watch that housed it needing a correspondingly bigger case. The generously proportioned ref. 16760 immediately became known as the ‘Fat Lady’. It also announced a previously unseen color scheme. The red and blue of the original model’s ‘Pepsi’ bezel had changed to black and red, not surprisingly dubbed ‘Coke’ soon after.

With the final piece in the puzzle completed, the GMT-Master II continued its upwards trajectory. Rolex retired the Fat Lady in 1988, making way for the slimmer-hipped ref. 16710. As a result, the series carries on gently evolving ever since with increasingly advanced movements and cutting-edge materials.

The GMT-Master Range

Today, it remains one of the most quintessentially ‘Rolex’ watches in the lineup. It is a piece that is unmistakable in any of its many guises. Alongside the Coke and Pepsi examples, the vintage brown and gold ‘Root Beer’ and the contemporary blue and black ‘Batman’ top many collectors’ wish lists. This is in addition to the incognito solid black bezels. And, the range has appeared in both white and yellow gold and Rolex’s own Rolesor.

This year’s Baselworld also premiered a stunning Everose gold model. This proved that a piece with an already impressive pedigree is in no danger of slowing down.

Now into its seventh decade, the GMT-Master II remains the world’s favorite travel companion.

The Explorer II had to wait a couple of extra years before it was fitted with the Fat Lady’s Cal. 3085, which turned it, at last, into a genuine dual time zone watch.

The initial reference, the ref. 1655, had long been the conspicuous underperformer in the catalog, with even a link to Steve McQueen, completely unsubstantiated though it was, failing to do for this particular watch what Paul Newman did for the Daytona.

Nevertheless, in 1985, Rolex brought out the ref. 16550 with independently adjustable hour hands.

For the first time, the Explorer II could now be used as a real GMT. Unfortunately, the world already had one; it was called the GMT-Master—and the clue was very much in the name.

The Freccione

Although the two watches were practically identical; same case, same movement, just with different dials and bezels, one was stuck with an image problem and the other wasn’t. A colorful model aimed at the impossibly glamorous world of international luxury travel was always going to out-sexy the stubbornly utilitarian one intended for people who spent most of their lives blundering around in the dark.

Rolex didn’t help themselves with the ref. 16550 either. By using the thin arrow-tipped 24-hour hand straight from the GMT-Master, they removed the most distinctive element from the Explorer II, and a favorite among its small group of fans—the orange ‘Freccione’.

Still, this new reference did introduce a white dial alternative to the original black, but again, more problems loomed. A defect in the paint used for the white, or Polar, dials caused them to turn to a soft creamy color after exposure to the sun, while the black dials cracked under the same conditions.

True to vintage Rolex collecting rules, examples of both these types of flaws now have a premium price over fault-free models.

Out of the Shadows

Much like the first GMT-Master II, the ref. 16550 was a transitional reference, only in production for a short while before the brand replaced it with the long-running ref. 16570. Its 22-year lifespan took the Explorer II up to its 40 th birthday and the biggest overhaul of its makeup so far.

2011 saw the introduction of the ref. 216570, with a 42mm case that makes it the fourth biggest in the Rolex range. As well as giving the watch a welcome boost in wrist presence, it also served to finally set it apart from its dual time cousin.

Underlying the brand’s efforts to carve out a unique space for the Explorer in the lineup, Rolex granted the watch a movement of its own for the first time, the Cal. 3187. In addition, it follows the current nostalgia drive that Rolex has been on with their other updated favorites. They reintroduced the original Freccione (‘arrow’ in Italian) 24-hour hand.

A Tale of Two Time Zones

The GMT-Master II and the Explorer II are fascinating watches. For most of their production runs, they have been physically almost identical. However, they also have massively different levels of appeal.

Just the addition of a rotating, two-tone bezel has seen one become a brand emblem. It is recognizable to anyone whether they have an interest in horology or not. The other, however, is the cult outsider, a tool watch in the real sense of the word.

But, although the GMT continues to don precious metal suits and roll out new color schemes, while the Explorer has stuck to its no-nonsense brushed steel, they both represent the very essence of Rolex—tough, practical and efficiently beautiful.

Whether you’re a watch collector or simply a casual enthusiast, checkout our selection of used Rolex watches  for these models and more.

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Oyster Perpetual

Yacht-Master

Marine character, the yacht-master and yacht-master ii models embody the brand’s nautical spirit..

Inspired by the rich heritage that has bound Rolex to the world of yachting since the 1950s, the Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II models embody the brand’s nautical spirit. The Yacht-Master brilliantly blends function and seafaring style. Presented in 2007, the Yacht-Master II is a regatta chronograph built for yachting competitions.

The emblematic watch of the sailing world, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 is now available in RLX titanium.

The Yacht-Master range celebrates the ties between Rolex and the world of sailing.

The watch of the open seas

The Yacht-Master is easily recognizable for its bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel. This characteristic and functional bezel – which enables the wearer to read time intervals, for example, the sailing time between two buoys – plays a full part in creating the unique visual identity of the watch.

Innovative regatta chronograph

The Yacht-Master II is a unique regatta chronograph dedicated to both yachting enthusiasts and experienced sailors. It features a countdown function with a mechanical memory programmable from 1 to 10 minutes which can be synchronized on the fly – a function that responds to the need for precise timing during the crucial starting sequence of a regatta.