cl 16 sailboat for sale ontario

Cl16 sailboat

• 16 sailboat
• Wayfarer sailboat

"cl 16" in Boats & Watercraft in Ontario

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CL 16 Sailboat for Sale

16 foot sailboat in great shape! Comes complete with excellent road worthy trailer, 3 sails, 3.5 hp outboard, new summer cover, winter cover, all rigging.

6' Wide Double Dolly

Mississauga

Dolly will fit Albacores, CL-16, 420,470 and Wayfarers sailboats , Zodiacs inflatables up to 12 feet -Double tubular keel support with large plastic keel rest ( NO SCRATCHING HULL). -Anodized Tubular ...

CL16, sirocco15, sails, rudder, mast, boom, cushions, etc.

Kawartha Lakes

main sail is in good condition, $290 (sirocco) jib, also good, no rips or patches $190 (sirocco) cl 16 seats, teak, 4 sections $180 cl 16 rear seats, $75/pair seats, Sirocco, $75/pair cushions with ...

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Home > Find Your Sail > Search by Make and Model > Cl > CL 16

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Let's connect, cl 16 sailboat.

CL 16 was introduced in 1967-68, and it is a Canadian-designed 16’ sloop sailboat. It was designed by Henry Croce and Ken Lofthouse in Mahone Bay, NS. CL 16 is considered to have a similar design to the Wayfarer dinghy but with a few changes and upgrades. In 1968 its production was transferred to Toronto from Mahone Bay.

About the CL 16

CL 16 is a boat with an open cockpit, and it has a double hull design. CL 16 has a retractable centerboard. The sail plan includes a Marconi rig and the main jib and symmetrical spinnaker.

CL 16 has L.O.A of 16’0”4.88m and weight 395 Lbs 179 kg with mainsail 95 sq ft 8.82 sq.m. Other equipment found in CL 16 include white or off-white hull, multi-stripe mahogany side benches and thwarts as well as hiking straps.

The CL 16 comes with an impressive pivoting fiberglass rudder blade with an aluminum head, tiller, and golf-grip extension and a pivoting fiberglass centerboard.

Request a CL 16 Quote

Looking to buy a new headsail or mainsail for your CL 16? Request a free quote from Precision Sails for a new custom sail. Our team will work with you to design the perfect sail for you.

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• Sailboat Guide

CL 16 is a 16 ′ 0 ″ / 4.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Ian Proctor/Graham Dodd / George Blanchard and built by C&L Boatworks starting in 1967.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Based on the Ian Proctor designed WAYFARER. CL = Croce & Lighthouse.

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CL 16 questions

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I am looking into buying a CL 16. I don't know much about this boat other than it is a fiberglass version of a Wayfarer. The boat is a 1982 model. Is there any specific problems I should look for in a used CL 16? Also does anyone have any advice if this boat is even one I should be looking at. I just moved to Florida and from the midwest and have some specific criteria in mind. 1) I want the boat to be performance orientated but also with a high degree of stability for a sailing dinghy. And yes I know an increase in one decreases the other. And I know that dinghy's are inherently unstable compared to a keel boat. 2) I want it to be easily trailered and rigged by one person. 3) I want it to be able to accommodate 2 or 3 people for afternoon day sails. 4) Can handle a small motor to get from the launch ramp to where I want to sail. If the CL 16 isn't the boat for me does anyone have any suggestions on what I should be looking for? My budget is around $2000 +/- so whatever I find will probably be off of craigslist in the Fort Meyer's area. My previous 2 boats were a Santana 20 (which is for sale in Missouri if anyone is looking for one) and a sunfish. Both of those boats had sailing aspects that I really enjoyed and I figured a 16 foot sailing dinghy be the ideal combination of what I enjoyed rom both of those boats. Right now I don't have any need for a small cabin on a boat although some day I will probably upgrade to something with overnighting potential.  

CL16 should work for you but I think there are better boats out there IMO. CL16 has a lot of sail area which means it can be hard to handle for 1 person when wind picks up. It's construction/design can also be a problem as it can easily get flooded if you bury the rail in a gusty condition. I would check craigslist for boats available in your area.  

You don't say if you want to race or not bit since you are moving to the area look into what kind of local one class racing there is. Often they use a boat because they are suited to the local conditions. Plus one class racing can be fun if you decide to do it.  

Right now I don't plan on racing. Although someday I might change over to a class race boat. I guess a race boat would be the opposite of what I would want. Or at least I don't want 20 different lines to worry about. Just a simple daysailor is what I am looking for.  

I sailed a Wayfarer for a while, it was a mk iii, which is the version they based the CL16 on. Also fibreglass. Some thoughts in no particular order : It is easy to rig and launch single handed, although a little time consuming. It is specifically designed so that the mast can be easily lowered for all those bridges over English waterways. It is extremely stable for a centreboard dinghy, in fact it might be the most seaworthy one in existence, but not as stable as a keelboat of course. I believe that sailing one safely requires one to anticipate, and practice for recovery from, a capsize. Most capsizes stem from use of large genoas in strong winds. For SF Bay I had a 100 percent jib which worked well. The worst capsizes involve turtling and getting the mast stuck in the bottom. This can be avoided by having some floatation at the top of the mast. A lot of people install some flotation, in my case in the form of inflated beach balls, in the forward locker. The other poster is right about the volume of water inside. I had a bucket, attached by a line, in the aft locker. They work great with an outboard. I had a 3.5 Tohatsu. Day sailing with 3 is pleasant. Forget about planing though! With one or two sailors and a decent wind, they will get on plane and 8 to 10 kts is possible.  

MarkSF said: I sailed a Wayfarer for a while, it was a mk iii, which is the version they based the CL16 on. Also fibreglass. Some thoughts in no particular order : It is easy to rig and launch single handed, although a little time consuming. It is specifically designed so that the mast can be easily lowered for all those bridges over English waterways. It is extremely stable for a centreboard dinghy, in fact it might be the most seaworthy one in existence, but not as stable as a keelboat of course. I believe that sailing one safely requires one to anticipate, and practice for recovery from, a capsize. Most capsizes stem from use of large genoas in strong winds. For SF Bay I had a 100 percent jib which worked well. The worst capsizes involve turtling and getting the mast stuck in the bottom. This can be avoided by having some floatation at the top of the mast. A lot of people install some flotation, in my case in the form of inflated beach balls, in the forward locker. The other poster is right about the volume of water inside. I had a bucket, attached by a line, in the aft locker. They work great with an outboard. I had a 3.5 Tohatsu. Day sailing with 3 is pleasant. Forget about planing though! With one or two sailors and a decent wind, they will get on plane and 8 to 10 kts is possible. Click to expand...

PS, as far as inspection goes, the most common issue is distortion of the hull, caused by improper trailering. The weight of the boat should sit on its keel on the rollers, and then be lightly supported by the chines. Straps should be loose enough to still allow the boat to rock a little. Look down the underneath of the boat and look for ripples in the hull.  

Well, I never managed to launch mine without at least 2 conversations with curious onlookers. The same when retrieving. So usually about an hour from arriving to boat in the water, ready to go. Maybe could be done in half an hour.  

That's not bad. A lot of people talk about getting there boat launched in 15 minutes but I think might be exaggerating a little bit. Or don't consider some of the things they do as part of the launch process.  

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