windrose 22 sailboat review

Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. Sign in to save them permanently, access them on any device, and receive relevant alerts.

• Sailboat Guide

Windrose 22

Windrose 22 is a 21 ′ 7 ″ / 6.6 m monohull sailboat designed by W. Shad Turner and built by Laguna Yachts between 1977 and 1987.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Similar to LAGUNA 22 and BALBOA 22. A fixed keel version was also available. Thanks to Donnie Redmond for providing photo.

Embed this page on your own website by copying and pasting this code.

Discover Related Sailboats

• About Sailboat Guide

©2024 Sea Time Tech, LLC

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

Windrose 22

The windrose 22 is a 21.58ft fractional sloop designed by shad turner and built in fiberglass by laguna yachts between 1977 and 1987..

The Windrose 22 is a light sailboat which is a high performer. It is stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat.

Windrose 22 for sale elsewhere on the web:

Main features

Login or register to personnalize this screen.

You will be able to pin external links of your choice.

See how Sailboatlab works in video

We help you build your own hydraulic steering system - Lecomble & Schmitt

Accommodations

Builder data, modal title.

The content of your modal.

Personalize your sailboat data sheet

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• About The Boat
• Boat Review Forum
• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Windrose by Laguna Yachts, info?

• Add to quote

I have found a 25'' Windrose that has not been used for many years and could probably pick it up very cheap. Does anyone have experience or info on this boat?  

Iused to sail on a windrose in southern cal. seemed like a stable vessel tho we were only weekend racing on the central valley lakes we even won a few races. if the price is right i don''t think you could go wrong there is always a market for entry level boats and who knows you could start a trend. good luck and fair winds  

We have a Windrise 25'' we have owned for 4 years and it is a very nice boat. We have set ours up more like a cruiser than a daysailor. Because we spend three weeks every Fall Gunkholing around Puget Sound, for two people it is very comfortable. Norm  

I just bought a 25 Windrose out of a hedge row. Sat 12 years. Dirty is the biggest issue. has a broken forestay. Anybody got the spec or could measure their's for me. I have to make one but the broken piece is missing. Also needs a rudder (missing) if anyone has a line on that... Thx  

Windrose 22 I have a Windrose 22 (1977) and like it. It sails well in wind up to 20 kts but needs a reef in anything stronger. I only use it as a day sailer since comfort facilities consist of a port-a-potty. John  

thanks for the info.  

• ?            
• 174.2K members

Top Contributors this Month

This site was created to aggregate information about the early line of Windrose sailboats made by Laguna Yachts, beginning in the 1970s. Below are scans of a 1978 brochure.

• Most Popular Categories
• Boat Covers
• Boat Propellers
• Bimini Tops
• Boat Motors & Parts
• Boat Motors
• Boat Seats & Pontoon Furniture
• All Categories »
• Boats for Sale
• Boating Forums

1979 Laguna Windrose 22 MK II

Parts, accessories & upgrades to consider:, would these parts and accessories improve your boating and experience, related links.

• Insure my Laguna Boat
• Sell my Laguna Boat
• Boat loan quotes

Parts & Accessories

• Anchoring & Docking
• Cabin & Galley
• Boat Hardware
• Boat Seats & Furniture
• Boat Windshields
• Controls & Steering
• Covers & Tops
• Fishing Equipment
• Fuel Tanks & Systems
• Inflatable Boats
• Life Jackets
• Maintenance & Boat Repair
• Manuals & Books
• Marine Electrical
• Marine Electronics
• Marine Engine Parts
• Nautical Gifts
• Plumbing & Pumps
• Trailers & Parts
• Trolling Motors
• Videos, CDs & Software
• Watersports

STAY CONNECTED

Sign up for our Newsletter to Receive the Latest Deals, News and More.

OUR COMPANY

Explore iboats, connect with us.

Catalina 25 Tall Rig Sailboat Review

The Catalina 25 is the Popup Camper of Sailboats

I sailed a Catalina 25 in the San Diego bay for a few hours and I liked this little sailboat.  She was fairly agile in the bay and although it did not have a Knotmeter gauge, she moves fairly swiftly for a 25 ft sailboat .

The Catalina 25 was built by Catalina Yachts from 1978 to 1994. Now out of production, it was the most popular sailboat in this size range ever built in the US, with a total of 5866 built.

This small recreational keelboat is built predominantly of fiberglass with wood trimming. Designed as a masthead sloop rig with a transom-hung rudder and came in two keel variants, fixed fin keel or optional centerboard.

The centerboard version has a draft of 5.00 ft with the centerboard extended and 2.00 ft with it retracted into the stub keel, making it ideal for transportation on a trailer. There was also a tall rig version, which I sailed, with a mast about 2.00 ft higher than the standard version.

Designed as a day sailor, the internal accommodations came in two versions, one with a “traditional” double bench sofa and the other a “dinette” table arrangement. A few had a forward “V” berth and a double berth under the cockpit.

The Catalina 25 needs to be fitted with a small outboard motor, 7 hp minimum, for docking and maneuvering, although I have seen the Catalina 25 with a 4 hp outboard before.

All in all, this little sailboat is great for a few people to get away for the weekend.

Catalina 25 Sailboat Specifications

Hull Type: Fin w/transom hung rudder Rig Type: Masthead Sloop LOA: 25.00′ / 7.62m Beam: 8.00′ / 2.44m Swing Keel Draft: (max.) 5.0′ (min.) 2.0′ Wing Keel Draft: 2.83’/.86m

Ships Captain The Dread Pirate Dave

David is the Editor in Chief of Postcards From the Edge. I was born on a cold November morning on the showy plains of Colorado. Like my father, before me, I am an American Nomad.

Related posts

2021 America’s Cup AC75 Class Sailboat

Laguna Windrose 22 MK1 Sailboat

Sea Witch 36 Sailboat Review

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

So many questions - 24ft Laguna Windrose

• Thread starter Nunyadamn
• Start date Nov 3, 2020
• Forums for All Owners
• Trailer Sailors

Hello - this is my first post. I just purchased a 1974 24ft Laguna Windrose and now I need to learn how to sail. So, to back up a little, I have had 5 power boats and a waverunner in the last 20 years. 3 very fast 18ft flatbottom speed boats, a 27ft large freeboard openbow and a 21ft wakesurfing boat I ordered new. I only tell you this because I am not completely new to the water, but I am completely new to sailing. I got the sailing bug after watching all of the popular sailing channels on YouTube and now my 10yr plan is to sail off into the sunset when I retire. I need to get started. I live in Arizona, so from where I live there are really only 2 close options - Lake Pleasant and Lake Roosevelt. My plan was to take some ASA sailing classes, then buy a cheap boat to learn on over the next 5 years, then buy a 35-45ft true blue water boat and set sail. We have always had the plan to travel around the country with our 35ft travel trailer after I retire, and we have had a few boats, so it just seems like a better plan to buy a sailboat and travel around the Bahama's/Mediterranean. Sorry, that is all a little off topic on why I wanted to post today. I need help. Since Covid screwed my learning plan up (I have been reading the ASA books while I wait to get hands on training), I have moved on to step 2 - buying a cheap boat to learn on. There are only a few sailboats within 200 miles of me - all around $3000-15000 - and I was looking at a couple for ~$3-5000. Then one night, this boat popped up for $1500. Came with a working (more later) 1990 Johnson Sail Master 9.9, a small battery powered trolling motor for backup, main sheet, jib sheet and storm sheet. The trailer has a lot of rust, but nothing that looks like it is going to fail, just ugly. The boat is in good shape, other than a few small dings and stress small stress cracks around some of the railing mounts. The people who owned it took good care of it from what I can tell. The bottom needs to be repainted, not because anything is wrong, they just used a brush instead of a roller and it looks bad. So, I have a few issues. One, it has a broken block for the boom traveler hardware. It's just a block with a shackle, but the wheel is plastic, old, and broken into pieces. I am having trouble figuring out what size replacement that I need. They gave me all of the lines, but I don't know what size they are and/or what size block I need to fit the lines. The lines for this is smaller than 1/2 inch diameter, but I don't know what size the line actually is. I know this is a fundamental that I need to learn, how to size lines, so if someone has a website with good information or videos I can watch, please point me to them. Finding sailboat information on the internet isn't as easy as I thought it would be. Second problem is raising the mast. I watched the people I bought the boat from lower the mast, but when I got home and my wife and I tried to raise it back up, it became obvious we needed some additional help. The people that I bought it from used a pulley system mounted to the front stay turnbuckle and the part it attaches to on the boat to lower the mast. I tried to use that to raise the mast, and it was nearly impossible to pull hard enough to move the mast off the ladder I had it resting on in the back of the boat. I ran a line from the pulley system to one of the winches and that helped, except the mast wanted to sway side to side so I have to hold that while my wife winched. It worked, but there has to be a better way. I started researching gin poles and that seems to be something that either came with your boat or it didn't and I can't find them for sale. Now I have started to piece together the parts to make my own out of wood - crank winch 2 way, pulley, a few eye bolts, some ratchet straps, wood, etc. I think I can make it work, but I wish the boat came with something. Another problem I have with raising the mast is moving it back from it's trailering position on the boat to the location needed to raise it. When trailering, it sits on the front and back rail stanchions and is bungee corded down. I have to move it back about 9 feet and so far have used a 12ft ladder to set it onto in front of my house. I have seen people online that have a roller of some kind that is mounted to the transom and allows them to push the mast back on the roller. Again, my boat doesn't have anything like this so I have started making it. My plan is to use chain link gate hangers to mount to a piece of wood and then hang on the rudder mounts. Then I will need to mount a roller up top for the mast to sit in. I think I have seen these online, but they were ~$200 - seems high for a roller, a pole and a couple of hangers/mounts. If anyone has a better idea or place to buy this stuff, I would really appreciate the links. The outboard runs, but would not flow water out of the motor when I bought it from the people. I am hoping it's just a really bad impeller. I am waiting on a stand to show up so I can take it apart to replace it. In the meantime, I have a second problem with the outboard, the tiller throttle is extremely hard to turn. I am sure the throttle cable that runs down the arm is rusted - I disconnected it from the engine linkage and it is really hard to turn. I was able to free it a little, but it needs to be replaced. The problem is I can't get the frozen on throttle handle off. There are two pieces I have to push at the same time, then pull the handle off, but it is extremely stuck on there. I tried WD40 all over it where I could get it in behind the handle, but no luck yet. I thought the slow speed limit control adjuster might be stopping the throttle from spinning, but when I removed the adjuster and a spring shot off into a corner and I can't find it. Then I broke it when trying to pull the handle off. So now I need to buy the throttle adjuster, the cable and I have the impeller replacement. Anyone have any ideas on how to get this throttle handle off? Have I missed something that needs to come off before it will pull off? Just to recap my questions: 1. What size block do I need? 2. Is there a better mast raising system? 3. How do I replace this stubborn throttle cable? I am sure to have more questions as I get started. Hopefully only 5-10 years worth. Bare with me while I learn the new terminology and ask trivial questions going forward. Thanks for any help you can provide.  

1) Regardng line sizes, Sailrite is an excellent company with a good website, check this out: https://www.sailrite.com/PDF/Rope%20Selection%20Recommendations.pdf 3) I don't know how to replace the throttle cable but you need to stop using WD40 and get some PB Blaster when trying to loosen stuck things. WD40 is good for some things, but not penetrating corrosion - the name comes from the 40th iteration when trying to develop a Water Displacement solution.  

dmax said: 1) Regardng line sizes, Sailrite is an excellent company with a good website, check this out: https://www.sailrite.com/PDF/Rope%20Selection%20Recommendations.pdf 3) I don't know how to replace the throttle cable but you need to stop using WD40 and get some PB Blaster when trying to loosen stuck things. WD40 is good for some things, but not penetrating corrosion - the name comes from the 40th iteration when trying to develop a Water Displacement solution. Click to expand

Daveinet said: To catch my mast, I had a section of 3 inch PVC pipe that would shove into the rudder mount. I mounted a bow roller to the end for the mast to sit on. This worked for the most part, but it really needed guides to keep it on the roller, as it would tend to steer off as you pushed it back. For mast raising, I had an old section of a broken boom that I cut the end, so it would sit on the mast step. To stabilise the mast while raising, I put two U-bolts up through my cabin, where I could clip the baby stays onto. The gin pole was also cleated to the same u-bolts. The mast would move a little side to side, but not bad enough to stress anything. To raise it, I used the main sheet. The nice thing about that is, I can cleat it at any point and untangle lines that inevitably get caught when raising it. I can easily do this by my self with a 28 ft mast. View attachment 186853 View attachment 186854 I will also mention, the PVC pipe I used to rest the mast on was also used for transport. This was one less thing I had to do to after arriving at the ramp. From the time I parked the car, I could have my mast up within 10 minutes. Click to expand

Stu Jackson

Nunyadamn said: I see that you have the tilting base for your mast. My boat has just a bolt that goes through two side pieces of metal. I don't know what it technically is called, Click to expand

SailingLoto

I have a 26 Laguna. I bolt my mast to the step, block the mast up at the stern rail with 2 2x4's in an X so it is over center of the step axis. wrap a ratchet strap around the mast 12 ft or so up and tie off a line to it. connect your shrouds. hook main sheet to bow pulpit and to line ratchet strapped to mast with sheet fully extended. have a buddy boost the mast up as you tighten/pull the main sheet. you can also extend the mainsheet line and boost the mast on your shoulder and pull the sheet, but help is nice. keep pulling sheet until mast is up and rear stay is tight. connect forestay. No gin pole or magic widget. I am 5'10 155lbs and I can do it myself when necessary.  

Nunyadamn said: I see that you have the tilting base for your mast. My boat has just a bolt that goes through two side pieces of metal. I don't know what it technically is called, but I have thought of replacing what I currently have with one like yours. I think the tilting mast base will help keep the mast more straight while I raise/lower it. Click to expand

As far as the PVC goes, do you have a better picture. I can't quite make out what you have. I have 2 small gudgeon mounts on the back for my rudder. Click to expand

Daveinet said: I'm not sure I would trust the pivot bolt to keep the mast straight. A small amount of crosswind, when trying to raise the mast would probably rip it out of the bottom of the mast. You really need to have either baby stays or make some temporary short side stays (guy-wires) to stabilize the mast. You can always rivet small loops to the sides of your mast to clip the stays to. Make sure the loop is large enough for a carabiner to clip your guy-wire to. You want this to be fast and easy. Since these only stabilize the mast while raising, they don't need to be super strong. I don't have a good photo of the bow roller in the top. I just used two stainless brackets to screw it to the end of the pipe. My photo shows that the rudder mount has a loop where I could shove the PVC pipe down into, to stabilize it. If I did not have that option, I would probably just cut a vertical slot in the pipe so it is U-shaped around the tiller and have it go down over the length of the upper portion of the rudder. Use a ratcheting strap to keep it from falling off the rudder. View attachment 186874 Click to expand

Stu Jackson said: Hi and congratulations on your first step of many. What it is called is a TABERNACLE. For my background, I've owned sailboats since 1983. A Catalina 22 (5 years), a Catalina 25 (13 years) and this Catalina 34 since 1998. The Catalina 25 is very similar to your boat, and the C25 Association has a very good website: Association Forum - Catalina 25 Specific Forum They have the same challenges you do on mast raising, and if you noodle around there, or even join (for free!) you can ask, they are a very helpful group. The concept with owners associations is simple: they help you avoid reinventing the wheel. Also, BOOKS can be very helpful. Pat Royce's excellent SAILING ILLUSTRATED has many pages devoted to trailer sailors, and IIRC includes your very boat in some illustrations. Learning to sail? Two: 1) Sailing for Dummies - actually a great book; 2) the very best sail trim information EVER assembled in one place: Don Guillette's Sail Trim Guide , available right here on this very website, look under books. I've been reading sail trim stuff for 45 years and this is the very best investment you could ever make in learning how sails work and how you make them work for you. Don't bother looking elsewhere beyond these three books for sailing; Royce's covers more than just sail trim, stuff you need to know. Really. I raised and lowered my mast on the C22, never did on the C25. A C25 owner in Florida did a YouTube on singlehanded mast raising and lowering because he had low bridges to get out from his dock behind his house. You should be able to find it. IIRC, the "trick" in raising the mast is to make sure the shrouds are clear and to do it FAST. It WILL wobble if you try to do it slow with a block & tackle. Do more investigation. The best deal on blocks is Garhauer, although you could find others in West Marine if they are on sale, but Garhauer's quality can't be beat for a great price. See if you can find a West Marine catalog, the thick paper version. It will be a great learning tool, because you can read about what gear is actually available on the marketplace, and get pricing. I literally "grew up" reading those catalogs instead of the newspapers with my morning coffee!!! Good luck to you, sounds like a great start. Click to expand

Project_Mayhem

• I assume your gin pole is tilting to the side that has the ratchet/buckle on it. You could start out with the gin pole tilted in the opposite direction to compensate, add a second ratchet strap with the ratchet on the other side or you could make one strap with a ratchet at each end. Dual ratchets allow you to balance things out as the ratchets pull the pole to one side or another
• If you have a hard time getting the mast on top of the ladder, extend one of the horizontal "steps" or "rungs" past the verticle 2x4's. This would give you a resting place to allow you to step onto a higher part of the boat
• Put some carpet samples or scraps on the ladder where it touches the mast. This makes it easier to slide the mast back and forth when attaching it to the tabernacle
• I'll often use a line or strap attached to the cabin top handrails as a safety when I'm attaching the mast to the tabernacle. It's pretty loose but it's enough to catch it if I let go of the mast. My mast teeters on my stern rail during this process

Harken-catalog_2020-EN

Project_Mayhem said: Nice mast stepping system. A few things that might make some improvements I assume your gin pole is tilting to the side that has the ratchet/buckle on it. You could start out with the gin pole tilted in the opposite direction to compensate, add a second ratchet strap with the ratchet on the other side or you could make one strap with a ratchet at each end. Dual ratchets allow you to balance things out as the ratchets pull the pole to one side or another If you have a hard time getting the mast on top of the ladder, extend one of the horizontal "steps" or "rungs" past the verticle 2x4's. This would give you a resting place to allow you to step onto a higher part of the boat Put some carpet samples or scraps on the ladder where it touches the mast. This makes it easier to slide the mast back and forth when attaching it to the tabernacle I'll often use a line or strap attached to the cabin top handrails as a safety when I'm attaching the mast to the tabernacle. It's pretty loose but it's enough to catch it if I let go of the mast. My mast teeters on my stern rail during this process Click to expand

Hunter216 said: This Harken catalog might prove useful to browse through. Harken-catalog_2020-EN flipbook.brandbits.com Click to expand

Nunyadamn said: That is a great catalog. I did find the pulley I was looking for. The boat is only 24ft but the previous owner is using 1/2 line for everything. I kept ordering what the boat probably started out with (smaller) and now I have the correct pulley's. Thanks! Click to expand

Coming Soon – Ronstan Sailboat Hardware News

Hunter216 said: Harken makes nice gear. I like Ronstan as well, typically higher load rating, <$ but a little less refined. Coming Soon – Ronstan Sailboat Hardware News www.ronstan.com Click to expand

Nunyadamn said: My gin pole is actually really straight to the mast, it is actually tilting forward a little once I start to turn the wench. No problem getting the mast on the holder/ladder, it is actually fairly easy to do that part. I have a large roller on the top so I can slide the mast towards the rear. Thanks for the post. Click to expand

Project_Mayhem said: It sounds like it'll be a pretty nice system when it's finished The 1/2" line was probably added by a previous owner for easier line handling. Smaller lines are harder on the hands. It's much easier to grip a screwdriver by the handle than the shaft due to its size Click to expand

Amazon.com: 8121, Aluminum Structural Tube 1.5" x 3" x 0.125" x 48" Long : Industrial & Scientific

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…