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The adventures of Infinity: Sailing to Antarctica on a 120ft handmade ketch

Yachting World

  • December 4, 2019

An 8,300-mile trip deep into the Southern Ocean proved to be 60 days of pure adventure for Andy Jamieson

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All photos: Ayack Wanderer

“When I say ‘Jump!’ y’all say ‘How high?’. If y’all don’t want to say ‘How high?’ you can pack your bags,” demanded the owner of the superyacht I was aboard.

The captain and I looked at each other and, without exchanging a word, answered in unison that we would be packing our bags. Just like that, my plans of spending the winter drenched in sun and rum in the Caribbean were over. It’s not easy working for billionaires.

But word spreads fast and just a few days later another voyage came my way. My friend Clemens Oestreich, a long-haired, chain-smoking, philosophic German hippie phoned and wanted to know if I could join his expedition to Antarctica on his 120ft, handmade ferrocement ketch, Infinity . The next day I was on a flight to Auckland.

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Who wouldn’t want to join Clemens’ crew? After all, humour is important to maintain spirits on a long, difficult passage

Five years previously, whilst failing to concentrate on revising for my university finals, I’d stumbled across a listing on findacrew.net

Infinity was looking for crew for an exploratory diving and surfing expedition in Micronesia, so I spent the next few months visiting barely chartered atolls, meeting tribal communities, sailing in some of the least spoiled waters on the planet and diving on World War II wrecks.

The good memories flooded back on that long flight to Auckland. Then I started to get nervous. Infinity is pretty rough around the edges. I had spent the previous few years sailing on superyachts with unlimited budgets.

Article continues below…

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Sailing Antarctica: Record-breaking voyage around the southern continent

Many believe number seven to be lucky. The seventh day of February proved to be just that. It’s seven weeks…

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Infinity was moored in Auckland’s Viaduct Harbour and it was soon obvious there’d be a lot of work to do. Not only was Infinity not designed for ice, but she’d barely been out of the tropics in her almost 40 years. Clemens assured me she was in good shape but admitted there were a few projects remaining.

Looking around I quickly realised something was amiss. The engine room was minus a fairly critical component: the engine. I was confused by this – Clemens had told me they had a new engine. It transpired there was a new engine, of course, it just wasn’t installed. Sometimes details are important.

We worked around the clock. A rudimentary heating system and insulation was installed. A lorry load of pasta arrived, enough to last three months for our motley crew of 16.

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Infinity , a 120ft ketch, is home built from ferrocement and is set up for adventure cruising

Next was the fuel truck and lastly, we installed our new to us, but not exactly new, engine. With everything in as satisfactory a state as it was going to get, and crew visas expiring in a matter of hours, it was time to leave. Carb-loaded, under a bright starry sky, we slipped our lines late one January evening.

Any vessel venturing into the deep south must be self-sufficient. One of the biggest dangers on any ocean crossing is crew health. Ideally, we’d have taken a doctor but our budget didn’t stretch that far so we settled for Pascale, a volunteer French vet.

He wasn’t worried. Not only did he have experience in all manner of operations, births and even euthanasia, but he’d worked on a variety of creatures from hamsters to monkeys. Humans are just another animal, he explained. I took solace in not being pregnant and hoped his euthanasia skills wouldn’t be tested.

As the days went by we got increasingly further south. The days got longer, the temperature dropped and the frequency of gales increased. We still went for the odd swim but no one could stay in for long. We experienced snowstorms and made a snowman.

Southern Ocean challenges

By the time we were in the ‘Screaming Sixties’ they were living up to their name. We experienced our first severe gale in which we hove-to, reducing the stress on both yacht and crew. One of the challenges of the Southern Ocean is sailing in light winds after storms have passed but with large, often confused, seas remaining.

During one of these lulls, we were struggling to sail and just discussing taking down the sails to motor when the mainsail violently backfilled and exploded. Within seconds we had the main down. The stitching had failed from luff to leech between two panels. We were now roughly 2,000 miles from safety with no main.

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Fixing a blown mainsail took around 100 hours of work

Thankfully, Infinity is ketch rigged, and the route was mainly downwind in high winds meaning a reduced sailplan wasn’t catastrophic. Fixing the main became an all-consuming project with two people often working around the clock.

One person would be inside the sail and another on the outside pushing the needle back and forth. The repair involved completing three rows of double stitching. All in, we estimated it took about 100 tedious hours to complete.

A few days later, whilst asleep, I heard cries of “Iceberg off port bow!” Within seconds, the whole crew had assembled in a collective state of awe. No-one in the crew had sailed in icy waters before so our first iceberg was quite a novelty. We sailed close to it and looped around it, everyone had their photo taken with it. Titanic sprung to mind.

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Infinity navigates through densely packed ice floes at night

From more than 60 days in the Southern Ocean’s grasp, I can count on one hand the amount of times the sun shone. But we were blessed with wall-to-wall sunshine on the day of our arrival in Antarctica, 32 days after we slipped our lines in Auckland.

Sailing into Cape Adare, 71° S, snow-capped mountains towered overhead, icebergs could be seen in all directions and we even had an escort of about 30 orca. This was what we had come for.

Before we could drop anchor, we first had to meander our way through a minefield of ice. Trying to focus isn’t easy when penguins are drifting by on ‘bergy bits.

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Sharing an Antarctic anchorage with the locals

Remembering advice from a high latitude guide, we aimed for the inside of a large grounded iceberg (in shallow water, other ‘bergs will hopefully get grounded instead of hitting you).

The anchor, however, still wasn’t ready to be dropped, it was firmly frozen in place and it took some gentle persuasion with a sledgehammer and hot water before we finally got the hook down.

After dealing with the inconvenience of frozen fuel lines on the outboard, our landing party was underway. Landing was easier said than done. Strewn along the beach were countless car-sized blocks of ice. The ice was moving with each wave, threatening to enclose any gap and crush our glassfibre tender.

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At anchor in Antarctica

Having successfully run the gauntlet of the moving ice, we landed in penguin territory. Being on land after more than a month at sea was remarkable, but to be surrounded by thousands of penguins took things to the next level.

One thing no photo can convey, however, is the stench. Technically, Antarctica is a desert, penguins aren’t too fussed with toilet habits and, with no rain, the place stinks.

Returning to Infinity we grimaced our way through yet another dinner from a can while downloading the latest GRIB file. A deep low was tracking our way so after just two memorable shore excursions we headed deeper into the Ross Sea in an attempt to get below the worst of the storm and take refuge in a bay.

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Expedition leader Clemens Oestreich and some of the Infinity crew

But to our horror, we discovered that the bay we were aiming for had already iced over for the year. With no other choice, we’d have to ride out the storm at sea.

Infinity was hastily made storm ready as best we could, in anticipation of strong and prolonged winds in heavily iced waters. For once, the forecast was accurate: the wind increased until it was blowing 70 knots and gusting off the anemometer.

Sea spray was freezing mid-air and pummelling anyone unfortunate enough to be in its path. No matter your clothing, the wind-chill froze you to the bone. Accordingly, we rotated through short watches of around 30 minutes.

Ferocious weather

The plan was simple, go straight downwind, keep perpendicular to the waves and don’t hit any ice. We dove deeper south, to 72° 18’S – we think further south than any other sailing vessel that year (2014).

Sail trim was easy as we were running bare poles whilst surfing breaking waves big enough to roll us. Setting a drogue wasn’t possible as it would have limited our capabilities to avoid any stealthy ice.

Messing up was not an option, getting rolled or striking ice meant certain death for all aboard. Even with immersion suits , survival would be limited to hours, if not minutes, in these waters.

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Big seas: exactly what you’d expect to find in the spectacular but fearsome Southern Ocean

The violent motion, extreme cold and rotating through short stints on the helm meant sleep evaded me for over three days, and I wasn’t the exception.

We all dug deep into our reserves but, fuelled by adrenaline and fear, we survived. When the wind finally dropped, we were able to take stock of the situation. We could now walk unhindered, be outside without being lashed to the helm, cook, sleep and function like regular human beings.

It was still blowing about 40 knots – but that was calm compared to what we’d just endured and relatively normal for the Southern Ocean. Up to her first spreaders, Infinity was plastered with a thick coating of ice. Smashing the ice off was both necessary from a stability and functional perspective, and also highly therapeutic for the crew.

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Living with ice at the helm

Days later, I felt comparatively refreshed but Clemens kept telling me I looked exhausted and needed more rest. Unbeknown to me, he ordered no-one to wake me for my next watch and covered it himself. I slept for 17 hours.

Following dinner, I thanked Clemens for his concern, did my watch and went for another uninterrupted 12 hours of deep sleep.

Having survived hurricane force winds, torn most of our sails, and already been at sea for over a month, we were now tackling a 4,500 mile Southern Ocean passage to Patagonia. The final leg dragged. The main event was behind us, the cold was relentless, the sun barely shone and each day was a repeat of the previous.

Lightening the mood

Like the sky, the mood was often grey, so keeping spirits buoyant became important. Movie nights, games, any extra effort on the food front, fancy dress parties and a sea shanty writing competition all helped break the monotony.

Storm sailing became the norm, more sails were torn, more sail repairs were carried out. Ice was spotted every day until we were two days away from Chile.

All this time, we were also busy trying to resolve many mechanical problems. Somehow, during the depths of the storm, we had syphoned seawater into our diesel. Despite our best attempts at polishing the fuel, stripping down the entire system and rebuilding everything from injectors to pumps, we never quite got on top of it.

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The engine often needed nursing to keep going

If the engine could just hold out for the final hurdle of the rock-strewn Chilean fjords, without seizing too badly, then we would be OK. At least engine maintenance got me out of sail repair duty.

After what felt like an eternity, Chile was finally spotted. Davey Jones blessed us with another rare sunny day whilst we navigated the fjords of Patagonia. Birds soared overhead, we could smell land and trees, we could see glacier-covered mountains, and even passed a lighthouse whose cheery keeper hailed us on the radio.

We’d gone from sensory deprivation to sensory overload and were high on life. The bars of Puerto Natales did very good business that night.

sailing-antarctica-infinity-crew-credit-Ayack-Wanderer

With hindsight, it seems almost unfathomable that we did the trip: an 8,300-mile Southern Ocean passage. I hadn’t given the prospect of a foray to Antarctica serious thought but simply jumped at the opportunity. I don’t regret the trip but definitely underestimated the gravity of such a voyage and wouldn’t repeat it.

Sea gypsies

Among our team was Nico Edwards, from California. Nico is the worst sufferer of seasickness I have ever encountered. Despite his perpetual mal de mer, his camera batteries constantly failing and the fact that he had never made a movie before, he managed to make a multi award-winning movie of our voyage. Sea Gypsies; The Far Side of The World is available on DVD, iTunes and Vimeo, see seagypsiesmovie.com for more information.

The Infinity story

At 120ft, Infinity is believed to be the world’s largest ferrocement yacht. Conceived with expeditions in mind and launched in 1977 she was never quite finished and ended up being used as collateral in a failed business deal. Clemens Oestreich acquired her in the 1990s and has called her home ever since, bringing up five children aboard.

Equipped with a large solar array, she can function off-grid for extended periods. But she’s not luxurious. All winches are manual and none of the sails furl. Air conditioning means opening hatches and the art collection is whatever Clemens’s children (who live aboard when Infinity is not sailing to high latitudes) have created.

sailing-antarctica-infinity-andy-jamieson

About the author

Andy Jamieson describes himself as a lifelong adventurer whose other passions include skiing, diving and climbing. He is a professional captain and currently running a luxury yacht in the Caribbean.

First published in the February 2018 edition of Yachting World.

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About Luxury Sailing Yacht INFINITY: Luxury sailing boat INFINITY is a divine little sailing yacht offering plenty of style, luxury as well as performance when under sail.  During winter months clients are likely to be able to view the yacht during the annual super yacht charter show in Antigua. The show takes place at the beginning of December each year and the boat is likely to be moored at one of the well known local ports such as the Nelson's Dockyard Marina in English Harbour, the Falmouth Harbour Marina or the Antigua Yacht Club Marina both located in Falmouth Harbour. Accommodation: Luxury Sailing Yacht INFINITY can accommodate 8 guests in 4 luxuriously appointed staterooms. The guests will two double and one convertible double/twin cabin on board with the fourth twin cabin offering two single berths. All guest cabins are exquisitely finished and fully loaded with modern facilities such as individually controlled air conditioning, iPod docking station, and en-suite bathrooms. The prices: INFINITY charters from 43.000 US$’s / week Luxury classic charter yacht INFINITY is fully air conditioned throughout. This is a non-smoking vessel. INFINITY´s experienced super yacht charter crew of up to 4 including the captain Régis Monnier, have a separate head and shower and may share companionway with the guests. Guests may not be allowed to bring pets on-board.

Super Yacht TENDER: Private charter yacht INFINITY has a 4m tender with a 60hp outboard Super Yacht itineraries: Luxury sailing catamaran INFINITY is usually cruising around the East Caribbean during winter months and the West Mediterranean in the summer. Her favourite sailing grounds cover the lovely Leeward Islands although charters around the Windward or even transatlantic voyages are not excluded. When in Europe, her crew spends most of the time cruising between St Tropez and Monaco or Monaco and Portofino. Sailing around Bodrum and Istanbul in Turkey is also welcomed.

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Specifications, accommodation, water sports.

Luxury charter yacht INFINITY has an excellent selection of watersport toys on board:

This includes: - One 13.5’ / 4m tender with 60hp outboard - Jet ski / Wave runner - Inflatable toys, tube - Kayak - Windsurf for adults - Water skis for adults - Wakeboard - Sun awning - Board games & Beach games - Stand up paddle board (SUP) - Snorkelling equipment - Fishing equipment - Professional Diving rendez-vous arrangements only - The guests are welcome to bring their own additional equipment such as sea-bobs and other items can be arranged if required. - A massage therapist can also be arranged on request.

Entertainment

Luxury sailing yacht INFINITY has a great selection of entertainment facilities on board.

This includes: - SAT TV - State of the art audio/visual systems - Extensive DVD/CD library Communication: - Marine VHF & Cell Phone - SATCOM - Wi-Fi Internet access, Email - Navtex – Weather Fax RECEIVER - GSM/Fax

You may also be interested to check out one of the following boats:

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We are wild and free

We are a multifaceted group of individuals cruising the world on our 36 meter Ketch, Infinity. Our quest is finding closeness, freedom and adventure while making a positive contribution to our planet.

Our commune is  an ever-changing constellation of characters joining Infinity for extensive journeys to all continents.

Captain Clemens’ family is at the helm since 2004 and Sage and their children Rhian, Chloe and Rafael live aboard.

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Next, Mexico and South Pacific

We are currently in the Gulf of California, Mexico, preparing for our next journey across the South Pacific. Learn more about our journey and track us below.

We are currently in the Gulf of California, Mexico, preparing for our next journey across the South Pacific crossing. Learn more about our journey and track us below.

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Our ship, Infinity

Infinity is a 36 meter Ketch built from Ferro-cement in California in 1977. She is fully equipped to undertake extensive expeditions with groups of 22 people.

Infinity Expedition

Its been a long journey

Clemens aquired Infinity in California 2004.  The nearly twenty years since have been an untamed series of maritime adventures:

  • Infinity was gutted and repaired, new install of engine, systems and interior
  • Pacific Ocean and Southeast Asia explored, above and underwater
  • Infinity facilitates research and environmental activism
  • Three of Clemens’s children grew up, three new ones where born
  • Antarctica visited twice, the Ross Sea and the Antarctic Peninsular
  • Americas circumnavigated,  West to East through  the Northwest Passage 
  • Masts fell over, masts got resurrected
  • Several films and TV series’ made and aired
  • Infinity, XL canvas for world class art by Carlito Dalceggio.

Beyond that, Infinity has become home away from home for an ever growing group of beautiful souls. We love you!

Life on Infinity

Together, we try to build a sustainable model of communal living that produces joy, growth and fulfilment, while contributing to a healthy planet.

The intimate environment on board and the demands of keeping people, projects, ship and journey in flow are a big challenge and life aboard requires a high level of self-motivation and resilience to chaos.

We work with touch, Yoga and non-violent communication to maintain a healthy attitude in gratitude. We still have much to learn.

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Life on Earth

To survive and thrive at sea, we depend on each other and on our ship the Infinity, with all her extensive equipment each serving essential functions.

To survive and thrive in the universe the same applies. We humans depend on each other and on our (space) ship the Earth with all her extensive equipment, life.

To survive and thrive at sea, we depend on each other and our ship the Infinity, with all her extensive equipment each serving essential functions.

To survive and thrive in the universe the same applies. We humans depend on each other and our (space) ship the Earth with all her extensive equipment, life.

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#Crew Not Passengers

We dedicate our expedition to mother Earth. Clemens co-founded several projects to help heal our broken relationship with nature that we support with Infinity.

Crew Not Passengers

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Infiniti 52.

The Infiniti 52 is the first racing yacht to be designed, engineered and built to take full advantage of Doyle Sails’ Cableless technology. Built around a highly efficient transverse DSS foil, the Infiniti 52 provides proven performance without the risk and cost of more complex class-driven foil solutions. The DSS foil provides the Infiniti 52 significant righting moment allowing the Infiniti 52 to be sailed with a smaller crew, sometimes half the number of a comparable yacht, increasing competitive efficiencies.

The 52ft yacht has been proven to be an ideal size, performing successfully at both inshore racing and coastal/offshore racing. It is large enough to sail comfortably for an overnight, but light enough to exhilarate and excite.

The Infiniti 52 has been designed and engineered to deliver next level offshore racing performance. An ergonomic deck, complete with Harken air winches and deck gear is complemented by a refined interior, making oceanic and offshore racing an experience to be enjoyed rather than endured. With a strong emphasis on watertight and reliable systems, comfortably sized bunks for off watch hours, and impeccable ergonomics, the Infiniti sets a new offshore standard in the 52 foot range.

The Infiniti 52 provides owners with a highly competitive and comfortable yacht that can raced without a full professional crew of 13-15.

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infiniti 105 sailing yacht

Infiniti Yachts and McConaghy Boats introduce 32m sailing yacht Infiniti 105

Infiniti Yachts and McConaghy Boats have teamed up to introduce a new, 32-metre sailing model called the Infiniti 105. The first five hulls will be available for sale with Northrop & Johnson 's Sean McCarter, with delivery on the first scheduled for 2025.

According to the shipyard, the Infiniti 105 will have "greater performance and comfort than any comparable yacht" and "reduced heeling and pitching", thanks to its Dynamic Stability Systems (DSS) foil.

The yacht will be constructed to DNV class in pre-preg carbon fibre, with a combination of foam and Nomex cores cured under vacuum to ensure a lightweight, stiff structure.

There are two bow options available: a reverse bow for a "race-orientated and progressive feel" and a traditional, vertical bow. There is also room for customisation in the layout (including arrangements suited to cruising or competing) and a customised sail plan if required. The default sail plan includes a self-tacking headsail and captive-controlled mainsheet to ensure "that sailing does not require an army of crew".

Accommodation is for up to six guests across three cabins, including an owner's cabin positioned forward. Design is by naval architect Hugh Welbourn (a pioneer of DSS) with interior by Design Unlimited . Renderings reveal a contemporary, monochromatic design proposal, with the main saloon positioned below the glass superstructure for a "dramatic influx" of natural light.

The Infiniti 105 also comes with the option of a hydraulic lifting keel, improving performance and allowing access into shallower anchorages and ports. The draught range is between 5.6 to 3.6 metres, although this could be increased for a "more performance-orientated evolution".

This follows the reveal of McConaghy Boats' flagship multihull, the MC115.

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Welcome to a New Level of Luxury

Every detail of the Infinity and Ovation Yachts was custom-built for luxury to make your cruise along the waterways of Lake St. Clair and the Detroit River absolutely unforgettable.

Drink in stunning skyline views, and sink into the comfort of plush and modern ambience. Share moments under open skies with perfectly crafted cocktails. Take in captivating performances from the area’s most talented entertainers while enjoying a fresh and delicious strolling dinner. Excursions range from three to four hours, and include chef-inspired cuisine, exciting activities, lush amenities, and five-star service. Get ready to revel in the experience that can only be delivered aboard Infinity and Ovation Yacht Charters.

Explore Infinity

Our 117-feet bi-level yacht sails with up to 130 pampered guests.

Designed for leisure and luxurious cruising, our Infinity Yacht is outfitted with a state-of-the-art galley and an extended bow deck for intimate conversation. The Admiral’s Salon features beautiful bamboo floors, a refined lounge and bar, and a sleek, spacious, open-air sundeck for enjoying the view.

Discover Ovation

Our 138-foot, tri-level yacht plays host to up to 300 guests.

Ovation Yacht’s main deck is a magnificent full-length dining salon complete with a gourmet galley kitchen. The mid-deck is outfitted with a full-service bar, cocktail lounge, private suite and outdoor aft deck. Ovation’s top deck features an open-air sundeck, dance floor, second full-service bar and pilothouse.

Docking Locations

While Infinity and Ovation Yacht Charters' home dock is Jefferson Beach Marina in St. Clair Shores, you can also board our luxury yachts at three convenient Downtown Detroit port locations. Each port of call offers ample, secure parking. Request information, or call a Charter Specialist at 586-778-9060 for more details about professional valet service and local accommodations for out-of-town guests.

Jefferson Beach Marina

24400 Jefferson Ave. St. Clair Shores, MI 48081

Cobo Center

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GM Renaissance Center Detroit, MI 48226

Detroit Port Authority

130 E. Atwater St. Detroit, MI 48226

Charter a New Course

See a new side of the city—accessible only from the decks of the Infinity or Ovation Yachts. We offer two routes for your excursion, allowing you and your guests to take in breathtaking views of renowned landmarks along the Detroit and Windsor shores.

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Meet Our Crew

Infinity and Ovation Yacht Charters is proud to have an incredibly dedicated and talented crew with more than 75 years of combined experience. Hailing from different backgrounds yet all drawn to the water, the team brings a myriad of skills and passions to help our guests create memories that last a lifetime.

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LADY 8 YACHT CHARTER

29.01m  /  95'2   cnb   2008 / 2023.

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Lap up the natural splendor of your surroundings in the utmost comfort onboard sail yacht Lady 8

The 28.96m/95' sail yacht 'Lady 8' by shipyard CNB offers flexible accommodation for up to 8 guests in 4 cabins and features interior styling by Dutch designer Vripack.

For serious sailors looking to add some luxury to their vacation, sailing yacht Lady 8 has plenty of appeal. With luxurious living spaces, both inside and out, as well as the opportunity for some fabulous sailing whilst on charter, she's sure to please even the most discerning seafarer.

Guest Accommodation

Built in 2008, Lady 8 offers guest accommodation for up to 8 guests in 4 suites comprising a master suite, two double cabins and one twin cabin. There are 5 beds in total, including 1 queen, 2 doubles and 2 singles. She is also capable of carrying up to 3 crew onboard to ensure a relaxed luxury yacht charter experience.

Onboard Comfort & Entertainment

Lady 8 benefits from some excellent features to improve your charter including Wi-Fi connectivity, allowing you to stay connected at all times, should you wish. Guests will experience complete comfort while chartering thanks to air conditioning.

Performance & Range

Lady 8 is built with a aluminium hull and aluminium superstructure. Powered by 1 x Cummins engines, she comfortably cruises at 9 knots, reaches a maximum speed of 11 knots with a range of up to 2,000 nautical miles from her 5,500 litre fuel tanks.

Book your next the Caribbean luxury yacht charter aboard Lady 8 this winter. She is already accepting bookings this summer for cruising in the Mediterranean.

This luxury sail yacht for charter is in prime condition to host your next holiday of a lifetime.

TESTIMONIALS

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Lady 8 Photos

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Amenities & Entertainment

For your relaxation and entertainment Lady 8 has the following facilities, for more details please speak to your yacht charter broker.

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'Lady 8' Charter Rates & Destinations

Mediterranean Summer Cruising Region

Summer Season

May - September

€42,000 p/week + expenses Approx $45,500

High Season

Cruising Regions

Mediterranean Italy

HOT SPOTS:   Amalfi Coast

Caribbean Winter Cruising Region

Winter Season

October - April

€46,000 p/week + expenses Approx $50,000

€48,000 p/week + expenses Approx $52,500

Caribbean Antigua, Saint Martin, St Barts

Charter Lady 8

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Payne: Sailing the screen-tastic Lincoln Nautilus land yacht

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Palm Springs — Welcome to the 2024 Lincoln Nautilus. Call it the Lincoln Not-like-any-cabin-you’ve-seen-before.

A handsome, high-definition 48-inch screen wraps the front cabin from A-pillar to A-pillar. Like the twin screen sitting on your office desktop, its expanded space allows you to run multiple applications. Which means you can keep your eyes on the road while scanning information including speed, navigation map, Sirius XM channels, range and more.

Cruising hands-free in Blue Cruise down Interstate 10, I rested my hands on my knees and settled back in the comfy leather thrones. Ahhh, a comfortable day at the office.

With its emphasis on quiet luxury (current slogan: “Power of Sanctuary”), Lincoln has been about comfortable cabins rather than carving corners. Let Bimmer, Alfa and Caddy fly around Nürburgring setting lap records, Lincoln wants to fly you First Class. Now, with its Lincoln Digital Experience, the brand has created a high-tech environment to rival other transformative interiors from Tesla Model S, Mercedes EQS and Cadillac Lyriq.

I first saw a pillar-to-pillar design on the Byton M-Byte, a Chinese electric vehicle, at the 2018 Los Angeles Auto Show. It was a showstopper. Byton promised its 48-inch jumbotron would come to market in 2020. Didn’t happen.

With Nautilus, this is Lincoln’s chance to shine. At a dealer in North Miami Beach recently, I heard audible gasps from customers as they opened the Nautilus doors. I haven’t seen butts jump into seats so fast since the Model S screen wowed at the 2010 Detroit Auto Show.

Tesla opened boutique stores at high-end malls (think Somerset) across the country so casual shoppers could try on their interiors as easily as fitting pants at J.McLaughlin. Lincoln, which has dabbled in the boutique store market, should do the same.

The 48-inch display works as well in practice as it looks. Like a TV screen paired with remote control, the touchless jumbotron is controlled via a console-mounted 11-inch tablet. Lincoln’s native navi system is run by Google — like Android Auto — and either can be used in the panoramic display’s center.

“Hey, Google, navigate to Idyllwild,” I barked, and the route populated the command tablet and megascreen. I gripped the wheel and eased into Palm Springs traffic for my trip to the San Jacinto Mountains.

The simple steering wheel (Tesla simple and square like a Corvette C8) is slick. It’s squared-off so as not to obstruct the megascreen. Like a head-up display, instrument and navigation information is always in your line of sight. The wheel’s simple interface is anchored by twin touchpads (Tesla uses scroll wheels): volume on the right, adaptive cruise control to the left. It shames over-engineered, button-infested wheels like Mercedes.

My instinct was to glance at the closer console pad for directions, but, with time, my eyes focused on the big screen. Its right half contains three more “pages,” which I filled with radio, trip information and clock. Want to change the selection to include tire pressure? Simply drag ‘n’ drop the icon on the command screen and — bingo! — it's mirrored on the megascreen. A muscular Qualcomm chip makes for smartphone-fast touch speeds, a key to Tesla’s early popularity.

Also like Tesla, the Lincoln system is so cool you forgive Nautilus its dissonate notes.

Lincoln’s engine lineup is weak compared to competitors like Genesis and Mercedes (more on that later). Blue Cruise drive assist is sketchy — turning off multiple times during my interstate test. And there’s a wonky Drive Mode button on the console that doesn’t actually control the modes — it just gives you access to them in the command screen. It’s an awkward process not unlike Tesla’s two-button chore to open the glovebox. Happily, most Lincoln drivers will rarely use SPORT mode. Nautilus is no BMW M4.

Like the Bimmer, however, Nautilus is gas-powered. Lincoln teased a Star Concept EV two years ago, but has resisted the Sirens’ call to full-electrification like other small premium brands. Instead of tearing up its playbook, Lincoln’s refining it.

Nautilus’s state-of-the-art interior is executed atop a familiar gas-powered drivetrain lineup. Customers (Nautilus is part of an SUV family including Corsair, Aviator and Navigator) prize the “utility” in sports utility vehicle for summer trips up north or out west.

For all of Tesla’s innovation, the Silicon Valley brand copied Lincoln’s electronic button transmission for its 2024 Model 3 Highland. Tesla’s shifter buttons, naturally, are in the screen, whereas Lincoln offers hard buttons on the console. I played them like piano keys, shifting the DRIVE button with my middle finger and the REVERSE button with my forefinger as I backed in and out of a parking space.

Once on the road, my hybrid turbo-4 cylinder purred along — a distant heartbeat from the hush-quiet cabin wrapped in acoustic glass and insulation. Despite the premium ride, the engine is Nautilus’s weak link.

The base 2.0-liter sounds like the Ford Escape egg-beater it’s shared with, and the hybrid lacks the visceral authority of a Detroit machine. Genesis, Acura, BMW — even Mazda’s premium CX-70/CX-90 — offer six-cylinder mills. Lincoln follows Lexus to hybrid fours, and it’s worth the $1,500 upcharge over the base engine. Coupled with a smooth CVT transmission, the battery provides good low-rev torque-fill to offset turbo lag.

Also worth the extra cents are the seven cabin scents on offer.

The electronic scent cartridges — standard Mystic Forest, Ozonic Azure, Violet Cashmere and additional Cloud Balsam, Serene Seashore, Twilight Embers and Sunlight Retreat — are loaded, three at a time, into a hidden chamber beneath the armrest. I hesitated at dispensing them, fearing my cabin would be doused in incense.

But the odors were mild and pleasant and complemented my refreshing interstate drive.

Passengers will enjoy the ride, too, as Nautilus offers best-in-class rear legroom (43.1 inches) and a giant panoramic roof so they can enjoy the treetops/sky/stars overhead. The hybrid’s 600-mile range will get you to Mackinaw City and back without ever having to stop at a gas station. Or, ahem, sit at an electric charger.

This rolling yacht is wrapped in a bold Lincoln exterior, including soft-squeeze, Packard-like door handles along the shoulder line. Mirroring the brand’s signature horizontal rear taillight, the front LED lamp now wraps ‘round the front. Lincoln also is hell on wheels (remember the turbine wheels on the Navigator?) and offers head-turning 22s that come with the Jet Package.

Big as it is, Nautilus sweats the little things.

Start with the door handles, then note the no-cap gas filler and double-pull hood tab under the dash so you don’t have to fish around the engine bay for the hood latch.

Buy it and you’ll be that guy giving neighbors interior tours.

Next week: 2024 Ford Ranger

2024 Lincoln Nautilus

Vehicle type: Gas-powered, all-wheel drive, five-passenger luxury SUV

Price: $52,210, including $1,595 destination charge (as tested)

Powerplant: 2.0-liter, turbocharged inline 4-cylinder; hybrid-electric drivetrain with 2.0-liter, turbocharged inline 4-cylinder

Transmission: Eight-speed transmission (2.0L); CVT (hybrid)

Weight: 4,517 pounds (hybrid, as tested)

Power: 250 horsepower, 280 pound-feet torque (2.0L); 295 horsepower, 310 pound-feet torque (hybrid)

Performance: 0-60 mph, NA; towing, 1,750 pounds

Fuel economy: EPA est. 21 city/29 highway/24 combined (2.0L); 30 city/31 highway/30 combined (2.0L);

Report card

Highs: Inspired interior tech, roomy, detailed design

Lows: Uninspired 4-cylinder engine lineup; Blue Cruise a work-in-progress

Overall: 4 stars

Henry Payne is auto critic for The Detroit News. Find him at [email protected] or @HenryEPayne

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8 Yacht Clubs and Marinas in the Philippines to Moor Your Boat In

Yacht Clubs and Marinas

FoodfindsAsia.com | 8 Yacht Clubs and Marinas in the Philippines to Moor Your Boat In | Filipinos’ history as a maritime people date back to prehistoric times. In fact, the Philippines’ basic sociopolitical unit today, the barangay, traces its etymological origins to the balangay , the ancient outrigger boats that were used by precolonial Filipino communities to explore and conquer islands this side of the Pacific. As a people belonging to a seafaring culture, it’s no wonder that modern Filipinos are taking a retrospective look at their glorious past as Austronesian mariners and are developing a renewed love for the ocean and marinas as present-day yachtsmen.

Today, Philippine marinas look to accommodate more and more yachts and other pleasure watercrafts as the years go by. In 2017, an ASEAN Briefing op-ed piece named the Philippines as a country with high potential in yacht industry growth. The natural beauty of the Philippine islands and its fantastic bays, combined with a growing interest in leisurely sea travel, can explain the spike in yachting activities throughout the country.

Are you part of the demographic that’s become enamored of the yachting lifestyle? Do you want to know where in the country you can berth your watercraft? Leading sailboat and motorboat authority Europa Yachts is happy to enter the conversation, and recommends the following locations for discovering the Philippines through yachting. Here is a short list of clubs and marinas in the country, organized by island region.  

Manila Yacht Club and Marina, Manila, Metro Manila

Established in 1927, the Manila Yacht Club and Marina is one of the oldest yacht clubs in all of Asia, and is nestled in the scenic Manila Bay. It is also near other well-known landmarks in the city, such as the Cultural Center of the Philippines (CCP), the headquarters of the Philippine Navy, and the US Embassy. Facilities in the marina include a launching ramp and a fueling center, and the club itself is host to a restaurant and gorgeous function rooms. The Manila Yacht Club only welcomes visitors who arrive by boat, and it charges an initial security deposit of USD 750 upon arrival. Club membership is mandatory for medium and long-term mooring of boats.

Subic Bay Yacht Club, Zambales

The Subic Bay Yacht Club, which was founded in 1998, upholds itself as the country’s premier yacht club. It operates in the deepest bay in the country, and can host vessels well beyond 50 meters in length. Already benefitting from the innate beauty of the Zambales mountains surrounding it, the club hosts a number of other attractions, including its luxury accommodations, swimming pools, and its own movie theater, bowling alley, and nightclub. Those who venture outside of the club’s premises can also shop for well-priced imported goods at the Subic Freeport Zone, engage in water sports , or sign up for diving excursions.

Punta Fuego Yacht Club, Batangas

Peaceful Punta Fuego is a mecca for those who love the sport of sailing. As per its official website, the Punta Fuego Yacht Club aims to serve “a dynamic and vibrant community of boat enthusiasts and yacht owners.” This it does by playing host to a diverse population of watercrafts, from large catamarans and mono-hull yachts to small boats. Non-members of the club may use the berths for up to 3 weeks, and can refuel at the marina’s fueling station. The yacht club offers other amenities such as locker rooms, shower rooms, Internet facilities, a chart room, and a restaurant called Barracuda Bar, which serves delicious fares. Outside of the yachting crowd, Punta Fuego Yacht Club also caters to those wishing to celebrate weddings, conferences, and corporate events in their opulent quarters.

Puerto Galera Yacht Club, Oriental Mindoro

Further south, yachtsmen may moor at the Puerto Galera Yacht Club in Oriental Mindoro, an island location that’s home to tourist attractions like the Sabang Wreck dive site, lively beachfront resorts, and the Malasimbo Music Festival. Puerto Galera Yacht Club has been in operation for almost thirty years and lends services such as refueling provisions and yacht repairs from its marina. Boat owners also enjoy optimal convenience if mooring here, as they can also shop for spare parts in the nearby Batangas port.

Busuanga Yacht Club, Puerta del Sol Bay Marina, Palawan

Beautiful Palawan is a bucket-list destination for many, especially those who dream of cruising its crystalline waters. Accommodating the yachting community in this island province is the Busuanga Yacht Club, which promises secure mooring amidst breathtaking white-sand beaches. Here, each vessel will benefit from a typhoon-safe harbor, easy refueling, and direct access to transportation hubs like the New Busuanga Airport. Adjoining this marina is the Puerta del Sol Bay Resort, which offers luxurious accommodations to visitors. When not atop the deck of a boat, travelers can also explore the lagoons and freshwater lakes of Coron, go shipwreck diving, or relax in the hot springs of Maquinit.

Iloilo Sailing Club, Arevelo, Iloilo City, Iloilo

Iloilo Province is home to some of the country’s most beautiful old-world architecture, a flourishing ecotourism industry, and delectably fresh seafood cuisine. What will round off an unforgettable visit to Iloilo, however, is an excursion to the Iloilo Sailing Club on a leisure watercraft. The club accepts visitors and encourages membership in the case of medium and long-stay mooring. It also hosts a number of amenities and activities, including a dinghy storage, a beach bar and restaurant, and classes for those who want to learn about sailing. In recent months, the Iloilo Sailing Club has also been a convenient meet-up point for big maritime events, such as the Iloilo-Guimaras Paraw Regatta and the Seafarers’ Job Fair.

Cebu Yacht Club, Mactan Island, Cebu

The historic Mactan Island in Cebu was the site of Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan’s arrival in the Philippines. Now known as a commercial hub that hosts a prolific furniture and musical instruments industries, Mactan is also the location of the Cebu Yacht Club, an institution that is beloved by the locals. Aside from being an ideal spot to restock on much-needed fuel and supplies, the Cebu Yacht Club is also a trusted club to commission for boat repairs. There’s a good vibe in this club for everybody, as it sports both luxury accommodations and a waterfront strip of restaurants that laid-back diners can frequent. MINDANAO

Holiday Oceanview Marina, Samal Island, Davao del Norte

The Holiday Oceanview Marina is a major attraction of Samal Island in Davao del Norte Province, one that welcomes Filipino and foreign yachtsmen alike to moor within its premises. The space is quite roomy, in fact, with 56 berths that can fit vessels up to 15 meters in length. The club also has a boat ramp that can accommodate boats up to 18 meters in length. The well-guarded and weather-safe marina is a gateway to some of Mindanao’s finest attractions, such as the Pearl Farm, Hagimit Falls, and Giant Clam Sanctuary.  

There’s no better way to discover the Philippines from end to end than getting onboard a seaworthy vessel and going on a long cruise, with stops in some of the most beautiful places in the country. Find a safe harbor in any of these major clubs and marinas, and participate in the renaissance of sailing in the Philippines.

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