pearson coaster 30 sailboat review

COASTER 30 (PEARSON) Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of COASTER 30 (PEARSON). Built by Pearson Yachts and designed by William Shaw, the boat was first built in 1966. It has a hull type of Fin Keel and LOA is 9.14. Its sail area/displacement ratio 15.07. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Universal, runs on Gas.

COASTER 30 (PEARSON) has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about COASTER 30 (PEARSON) and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the coaster 30 (pearson).

COASTER 30 (PEARSON) was designed by William Shaw.

Who builds COASTER 30 (PEARSON)?

COASTER 30 (PEARSON) is built by Pearson Yachts.

When was COASTER 30 (PEARSON) first built?

COASTER 30 (PEARSON) was first built in 1966.

How long is COASTER 30 (PEARSON)?

COASTER 30 (PEARSON) is 7.09 m in length.

What is mast height on COASTER 30 (PEARSON)?

COASTER 30 (PEARSON) has a mast height of 9.45 m.

Member Boats at HarborMoor

PRICE: A used P-30 can be found for between $5,000 and $19,000, depending on the year of construction, overall condition and amount of upgrades. DESIGN QUALITY: The boat's scimitar-shaped rudder and soft bushings have their detractors, but overall the P-30 stays in the winner's circle, especially its encapsulated hull that has no keel bolts and little maintenance. CONSTRUCTION QUALITY: Born in the days when fiberglass boats were typically overbuilt, the P-30 is no exception. The hull is solid, the deck hardware and standing rigging super strong. USER-FRIENDLINESS: The P-30 has a simple sailplan and easy onboard systems. It requires early reefing. It is easy to handle in a light breeze and a comfortable racer-cruiser despite the annoyance of a long tiller handle. The engine is accessible by lifting the companionway steps, but the oil dipstick is located on the back side and difficult to reach. The boat has a head but no shower. SAFETY: Like most racer-cruisers, it's a compromise design and should be reefed early and often. Upgrades such as a vang or traveler can help tame the relatively long boom. TYPICAL CONDITION: Used P-30s run the gamut from pristine to project boat, but the vast majority offer a solid hull, sound deck and reliable standing rigging. REFITTING: Of all needed improvements, most later owners seem to target the Atomic 4 for replacement by a diesel. This is likely the most expensive undertaking for a refit, followed by attention to the rudder post and to the compression post where the mast steps onto the keel. The latter is mostly labor since a new compression post can be easily fashioned. Since no sewage discharge laws were in effect when the P-30 was made, the head must be updated with a Y-valve and a waste holding tank in most waters. Many owners added a boom vang and a traveler to make sailing in big winds a bit easier. SUPPORT: An active group of P-30 owners can be found online at the Pearson Sailing Association of the Chesapeake Bay at the website www.cbpsa.org. Additional information on the P-30 is available at www.sailboatdata.com and on blogs posted by specific P-30 owners. AVAILABILITY: Plenty of P-30s are available on both the East and West coasts of the U.S., in Florida, Texas, the Great Lakes and Canada. INVESTMENT AND RESALE: Depending the degree of upkeep and overall condition, the P-30 can be a sound investment. Most owners do not consider the P-30 a bluewater boat so its value is limited to coastal cruising.

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Coaster 30 pearson

The coaster 30 pearson is a 30.0ft masthead sloop designed by william shaw and built in fiberglass by pearson yachts between 1966 and 1970..

The Coaster 30 pearson is a heavy sailboat which is slightly under powered. It is stable / stiff and has an excellent righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally small. There is a very short water supply range.

Coaster 30 pearson for sale elsewhere on the web:

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Pearson Coaster and Wanderer

Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by Erik S Frampton , Jul 24, 2017 .

• pearson coaster
• pearson wanderer
• weather helm
• william shaw designs

Erik S Frampton New Member

Dear Sailors and Designers, I am strongly considering purchase of either a Wanderer or a Coaster. I spent a whole day in moderate wind on the coaster yesterday. Rigging and Sails were both acceptable and not noticeably spent. My only real problem with her was the weather helm. I found that even on the broadest reach, even on a downwind, that she wanted to point to windward. Quite badly! It made standing to windward of the tiller an uncomfortable effort. I would have felt it quite cautionary on a cruise over distance. Standing to leeward of the tiller allowed the body weight to hold position and control the helm more easily. The Wanderer is 300lbs heavier ballast, but both feature the accused and in some circles accursed barn-door style rudder, and suggest expensive re-design to avoid a "heavy helm" where there is too much pressure on the rudder under way. I did not experience this as much as the tendency for her to steer so eagerly to windward. If the weather helm is well known here, or a problem for this style of Bill Shaw design, then I might re-consider. If anyone knows of cost saving designs or estimates for a new rudder, I would certainly consider it. There is a thread on this site, but it dates from 2003,,,so I'm hesitant to continue there. All comments and suggestions welcome. I'f I purchase the shoal draft Wanderer, I will likely only know its handling after purchase, as it is on the hard. Best regards, Erik S Frampton  

tom28571 Senior Member

The Wanderer is the shallow draft version and as such needs more rudder area than the depth allows without having a barn door style. The Coaster has a much deeper keel and does not have a barn door style rudder. Most all full or 3/4 length keel sailboats of that era tended to develop lots of weather helm because of the short couple between keel and rudder. My old Alberg 30 used to nearly pull my arm out of its socket on a spinnaker reach. That was one reason that designers went to an aft rudder on a skeg or on the transom. That is, to lengthen the steering couple. It is also why some had wheels installed. If the centerboard is dropped part way on a Wanderer it will offer more aft area to partly relieve the weather helm and improve steering. I suspect that there is no quick fix and both boats are rugged and good sailboats in spite of some flaws. Builders had not yet figured out how to make them cheaper and many may not even be subject to blisters or cracked jelcoat. I used to think about adding a flap on the rudder to act as a force multiplier, much like many wind vane self steering rigs.  

PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

Tom has it right and I've made several steer better with a few different modifications. The first is raking the rig forward as much as practical. Neither boat has a traditional barn door rudder, though the Wanderer does have a fairly truncated keel hung, with a prop cutout, which isn't particularly effective. These keel hung styles were never known for good abilities. They were used to offer good protection, sitting behind the keel. I've also put a spade on a Coaster, cutting back the main fin about 18" and supporting the shaft on a strut. I've debated a "Brewer" bite, though can't justify this amount of effort. Given the value and general age of these puppies, maybe a longer tiller is the way to go.  

Excellent confirmation and advice! Thanks. I confirmed with the seller of the Wanderer that he thought the steering was overpowered in a stiff one, but that he thought he was just a little weak. I am not a total novice, but will be on a steep learning curve with either vessel. The Wanderer seems to suffer more than the Coaster, but I really do like the shoal for specific anchorages in my area where normally sailboats cannot go. Even the Coaster was not safely docked near low tide on the Hudson, just a few yards away from a towering 100 foot motor yacht, with 5" of clearance and 3 foot swells from passing boats. Sorry for not noticing the shape difference on the two spec drawings, you're right, the Coaster is angled aft to reduce surface area near the waterline. I was particularly concerned that the "barn door" tries to draw the boat down into the water, fighting not just the water flow across the rudder, but also the buoyancy of the vessel. The owner also assured me that the auto helm for his tiller has no problem keeping course, even when it was stiff for his strength and comfort level. (They are an older couple, but handled a Triton and then the Wanderer for two decades) I will ask the yard to rake the mast decently forward before launch, as I've also read this to be a lessening factor. The Coaster did have quite a tiller handle, damn near reaching the hatch bench. Could easily sit under a small dodger and still pilot just fine. Standing to leeward at the front of the cockpit sole was the most comfortable position. I did notice on my viewing of the Wanderer that the tiller handle was quite short compared to other boats of the same relative vintage and length. I would sooner replace that than any rudder. If you were me, and the condition of each vessel basically averaged out with plusses and minuses, would you trade the slightly better handling of the Coaster (implied above) over the shoal draft of the Wanderer? Or would you consider the handling of each rather a toss-up? Also, I was not too impressed with how well the Coaster was able to point, ESPECIALLY compared to a Pearson 30 (fin keel and spade) which I have sailed in various weather recently. The P30 was much more quickly overpowered, however, where as the Coaster really stiffened up with the wind, looking for more. Finally, what opinion would either of you offer as to the overall handling, seaworthiness, and sailing ability of the two? Can I get an Amen, a blessing or two? Sincerely, erik  

It's not a fair comparison to attempt to match up a canoe body hull form (Pearson 30) to a CCA era boats you're interested in. The Pearson 30 has a spade rudder and well defined fin, while the others are built down hulls with lots of wetted surface, keel hung rudders of marginal effectiveness. There's over a decade of thinking difference between the designs, so naturally the Pearson 30 is superior in most regards. This said, you'd probably prefer to be in the Coaster if it got good and nasty out, in terms of comfort. The yard wouldn't be who I'd let rake the mast. This is something you should do, so you can sneak up on the best tune for the sail plan. It's not especially difficult and you'll know when to stop, or in reality, when to go back because you've gone too far. The yard has no idea how much forward rake to apply to give you any chance at success. Again, I can't really tell you much, mostly because the questions you're asking are owner specific and/or preferences. I live in extreme shoal waters, so the Wanderer would have to be the choice, but you don't have this concern and have a choice. Full keel boats just aren't going to point as well as, a divided appendage, canoe body with a more modern rig. It's like comparing a late 1950's Porsche with a early 1970's Porsche. They're both rear engine, air cooled sports cars that have similar lines, but that's about all they have in common. If I was looking for a boat in this size range, I would be looking for a more modern design. One that wasn't designed nearly a half century prior, so the handling attributes and other "quirks" would be more what you're use to.  

Thank you so much! I was hoping that the Wanderer, with 300lbs more ballast than the Coaster would make up the difference in seaworthiness. The Long Island Sound can indeed get pretty nasty, but shelter is only 30 minutes in either direction in most cases. My cruising aspirations and familiarity with charts and waters does put the Wanderer in the lead ahead of the 4 1/2' needed to float the Coaster, and I have a sneaky suspicion that the Wanderer will do better in light air, with less drag from the truncated keel and with the board raised up. Sorry about the false comparisons of oranges to apples. I was much more interested in the subtler comparison of the Coaster and Wanderer. I've considered the P30 plenty, but do want the relative stability and keel in the older designs. Thank you so much! Best forum I've ever joined on any topic in 25 years of internet!  

I have sailed a Pearson 34 regularly for several years. Even though it has a separate keel/CB and the rudder is well aft, just inside the transom, it also has a tendency toward excessive helm in higher wind. No real effort because it has a wheel but wake coming off the rudder gets noisy and can stall in a hard gust. One solution for all such boats that are not racing is to reduce sail. Centerboard boats have a great attraction in areas like mine where the water is thin and if thin water is a concern, the Wanderer gets higher marks for that. These are older boats although well built and inexpensive. Things like sails, standing rigging condition and engine mechanicals should get some priority in choosing between them as these can get expensive. For price and a decent cruiser, either is a good value and worth some owner sweat to make it a nicer boat.. Newer designs do offer more interior open space but often at the loss of storage.  

I'm a big fan of the old CCA's, particularly as cruisers and their inherently larger storage areas. The ability to carry stores and spares on a cruiser is awful important. The initial stability of the P-30 will be higher than the older boats, though I'd have to check their AVS for ultimate figures. As Tom mentioned, it's more the way the boat is equipped and it's general condition with these older designs. Having to wholesale redo standing rigs, sails, engines, etc. can easily make a seemingly good deal, a not so good one.  

Excellent!! Here's the basic breakdown... The Coaster is more vintage...with few updates. An added hatch over the salon is good for airflow. A wooden anchor pulpit was installed with two rollers for the chain, but it was damaged in a docking event along with the pulpit railing, and the deck fastening there needs complete replacement. Screws were ripped out and fiberglass damaged. The Coaster also features the purchase upgrade of the mahogany laminate plywood interior and cabin sole. This is still beautiful and restorable where moisture has resulted in curling or lifting near the blukhead and mast compression post inside the head at the V-berth. Sink and head both work, but either bulbs, fuses, wiring, or all of the above prevent all running and cabin lights from working except for the single spreader light. A half-rebuild and tuneup was done on the original Atomic 4, with good success in my opinion. Idles and runs fine. Original gas tank. Depth finder works, but not knot meter. Bottom was painted, but not sanded and texture looks a little rough. Stanchion leaks are minor, but they leak! Shore power connection only leads to a power outlet....but is modern and could be hooked up to everything. A small solar panel on the transom keeps the batteries charged. 3,000 negotiable includes mooring in Manhattan (no small deal) and possible dingy with 5 hp mercury. The Wanderer has a fantastic bottom, anti-fowling bottom paint and not a single blemish. Pulpit and windlass are great. 7 sails compliment her inventory. Interior is same layout, with starboard galley, but is the lesser laminate and fiberglass sole (looks identical to the P-30) is less cozy. Sinks and fresh water do not function. Newer diesel engine came fully re-built 7 years ago. Fresh water cooled. Autohelm tiller, better electronics, and full inventory of lights including deck lights attached to spreaders. Additional modern winches in cockpit. Propane stove and tank at stern. The Wanderer has less of a topside, as the current owner tried painting it himself last season, and it is already peeling. Cockpit sole is very soft, nearly trampoline-like...but includes underneath it two additional battery wells. Smaller diesel tank is now is port side lazarette. Roller furling in front with a 150. 3 sails in excellent condition including spinnaker and two poles, 4 additional sails. Good running and standing rigging. 5,000 owner financed at no interest, no dingy, 3 day sail away. He will hold the insurance until the note is paid off in December, but I can move the boat in mid-August. I think the Wanderer is the smarter purchase over time, but the Coaster is right here and quite pretty inside, sold by a friend and quite inexpensive. Insurance might possibly cover the pulpit damage. This is a lot to read....thanks for any additional consideration. Your help has already been more than expected. Best regards, Erik Frampton  

Let's see if I can't narrow it down a bit, the Wanderer needs structural repairs and considerable cosmetic repair and costs more. Both need general maintenance and upkeep (rebedding hardware, etc.), plus some additional upgrades. Price point savings on the Coaster, may cover some if not all of the damage repairs, though the desirable mooring is a good selling point. For most folks, structural repairs (rotten cockpit supports) should be avoided, as this is major surgery and could easily be more than the cost of the boat. A pulpit and other cosmetic stuff can be done by you. Try to ignore the bells and whistles and focus on what each brings to the table and its value to the yacht. Diesel is more desirable than gas, replacing a pulpit, compaired to a cutting open the cockpit should be a no brainer.  

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Rumars Senior Member

Electronics have no value once installed. Sails have value, as has the diesel but only if in good shape. If the cockpit on the Wanderer is the same as the Coasters (wich I believe is true) you are in for major work. That is a one piece unit with the deck, and balsa cored like it. There are no inside suports whatsoever (hence the trampoline feel, it is suspended). Repairing it means cutting it out, recore and reinstall. I would advise the Coaster for following reasons: 1. Mooring. Do I need to say more? Just research what one costs and how much you have to wait for one. 2. No mooving apendages. Sooner or later a centerboard will need attention. The non working electrics can be safely ignored. A boat of this vintage will usually have a mess of wiring wich needs to be updated anyway. See it as an oportunity to convert to LED and USB standard. Easy to do yourself and the boat can be sailed in the meantime if you start with the running lights and bilge pump. The leaking stanchions and damaged pulpit and roller are minor things, you would have to do the same work of removing and rebedding them on the Wanderer in order to do a decent paint job on the deck. Just do it right with epoxy plugs since it's a balsa cored deck. The Atomic 4 still has a strong comunity going and parts are available. Upgrade to electronic ignition and have a good bilge blower. Dual circuit cooling is available. Diesel only makes sense if you motor a lot or if it's already in the boat. I see no reason to convert. Things to watch out for and recomended upgrades in no particular order (if they are not already in place): 1. Chainplates. That's why the veneer lifted in the head. Probably the same on the other side in the hanging locker, only more difficult to see. So inspect all of them and reseal and replace if suspect. It's not that complicated. 2. Beam over the main bulkhead. Likes to delaminate since the mast sits on top of it and togheter with the door jambs it represents the mast compression structure. 3. Sink and cockpit drainage tubes. Pearson originally only fiberglassed in some tubes without any seacocks. The cockpit drainage is marginal and the sink will drive you crazy. In any kind of seaway it makes a church organ sound due to the changing water level in the tube that will make you doubt your sanity and have you believe you are hallucinating. Same for the cockpit only less noticeable because of the wind. The tubes themselfs are not bad, but some form of valve needs to go on top of them. Cockpit drainage should be updated (read made really big) if you want to go offshore. 4. Sea water tap for the sink. The watertank under the V-berth is small by todays standards. Use an electric pump for seawater and a manual one for fresh water. The good thing is the tank is monel (gas tank also) so no problems there. 5. Hull - deck joint. Can be fiberglassed from the inside with a bit of contorsionism. 6. Boom. Originals can still be found with the old wooden roller reefing boom (and hopefully the cranks for reefing and outhaul). Either you like it and learn to use it or you convert to modern slab reefing. 7. Fold out support for chartplotter and other instruments. Best place for it since with the long tiller you normally sit right at the edge of the bridgedeck and can reach it just fine. The cabin sides are inclined and make wonderfull backrests when anchored, I would not put any instruments there (I do know it looks weird not having them there). 8. Gaskets for the cokpit lockers. 9. Lexan washboard for heavy weather and light at anchor.  

1973 Pearson Portsmouth 43

Project Log - New Keel, Who Dis? (Pearson 26 to Electric Cruiser)

Concept of an unmanned battery-powered coaster - REALLY?

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hey everyone, I know I would rather have a blue water boat but until I get enough money to find my dream boat, I would still like to upgrade my Grampian 26 to something a bit bigger, I found a Pearson 30 that seems to be in good shape at a good price, but I would like to hear what people who have sailed on one think about it. thank you in advance  

I've always liked the Pearson 30's. They do tend to have the Atomic 4 gasoline engine that I don't care for, well, that engine is fine, I just don't like gasoline on my sailboat. But that's just personal preference. The Pearson 30's I've sailed on seemed to sail quite well. They are a bit narrow on the interior compared to some other boats of that same vintage, but overall, nice boat. dj  

Hi, i have some time on the p30. Sweet sailing boat. Nice feel from the tiller. Well balanced. Small inside (compared to many other 30’ boats) barry  

The Pearson made boats are great sailboats. Granted they are from an earlier design standard. Narrow boat beam 9.5ft. Why the seem small compared to more modern designs. with a capsize rating of 1.88 they are an ocean going boat. Still they are considered coastal cruisers.  

fred1diver said: hey everyone, I know I would rather have a blue water boat but until I get enough money to find my dream boat, I would still like to upgrade my Grampian 26 to something a bit bigger, I found a Pearson 30 that seems to be in good shape at a good price, but I would like to hear what people who have sailed on one think about it. thank you in advance Click to expand

Practical Sailor has a good write-up about the Pearson 30. Friends had one and enjoyed it a lot. Quite the capable cruiser, though it seems only half as wide as a Catalina. Sails beautifully and is quite quick in light air. They seem to hold up well and are not too complicated to fix if need be.  

David in Sandusky

The Pearson 30 design is good for blue water cruising. Certainly, equipment and mods would be needed to make it ready. I would go see the boat for sale. If you like the looks and interior and a survey is OK, this would be a good boat to start with. And may well carry you to your blue water dreams.  

Just make sure it's a Pearson 30, not a Pearson Flyer which is also 30'. The Flyer is a great boat for racing but not at all a cruiser. I raced on a Flyer for a few years on Lake Ontario, lots of fun but a handful in a breeze.  

Make sure that IF this one of the Pearson's with rubber gasket under each stanchion base, that someone has re-bedded all of them properly. Coring was probably replaced in the process. (It was a production decision with very unpleasant consequences. ) Where possible, like maybe aft under the side deck, make sure that the hull/deck joint is solid. Helps a lot to find places where you can view the hull at the top. As stated, good design with a decent rep for sailing. Just be sure you tap and meter the decks.  

We used to have a very nicely maintained one at the club and no one could beat it around the buoys.  

Don’t worry about atomic 4, or gas. Had old (1964) 28’ Triton Pearson with gas Atomic 4 for many years. Very reliable workhorse! (Yes, a gas engine can ignite. You can get hit by lightning or have fatal car wreck driving anywhere…)  

thank you everyone, I'm supposed to go see it this coming Saturday  

fullbore said: (Yes, a gas engine can ignite. You can get hit by lightning or have fatal car wreck driving anywhere…) Click to expand

dLj said: don't like the sound of gasoline engines, Click to expand

DArcy said: The A4 runs pretty smooth and is quieter than a comparable diesel. It doesn't have the same sound and feel of trying to shake itself to bits like a small diesel. The smell I could do without. Click to expand

@dLj do you have insulation in the saloon floor? My diesel is under the floor as well but makes itself well known at cruising RPMs. I've been thinking about adding some soundproofing on the underside of the floors.  

DArcy said: @dLj do you have insulation in the saloon floor? My diesel is under the floor as well but makes itself well known at cruising RPMs. I've been thinking about adding some soundproofing on the underside of the floors. Click to expand

Regarding diesel engine noise and vibration... On any used sailboat over 15 or 20 years old, be sure that the engine mounts have been replaced within the last decade, and that the drive train has been properly aligned. There are thousands of older sailboats out there where no (zero) preventative maintenance has ever been done on this stuff. A succession of owners will have adopted the approach of "out of sight, out of mind". Also, if the original builder installed foil-face acoustic foam around the engine, it's likely all fallen down or disintegrated from oil vapors and heat. Most of those old engines will run forever, or until replacement parts become too scarce, but they DO need maintenance of everything around and under them....  

jssailem said: The Pearson made boats are great sailboats. Granted they are from an earlier design standard. Narrow boat beam 9.5ft. Why the seem small compared to more modern designs. with a capsize rating of 1.88 they are an ocean going boat. Still they are considered coastal cruisers. Click to expand

hello everybody, just went to see the boat today, it's in good condition for a 1972, the cushions need to be redone, good thing I do that as a sideline, still debating on it, the guy showed me the last survey just need to wait for a nice day to check the decks. I wish lines would be led aft, but it might be a project for the future, last time I sailed on a boat where halyards were at the mast was during my sailing class lol. what can you all tell me about pressurized alcool stoves, I know most people try to avoid them but it's built in the galley, so replacing would be a challenge. funny thing, well funny to me, the boat has both interior and exterior speakers, but no radio, I'm not sure but a speaker near the compass might not be the best placement lol.  

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conquistatadore

Seabreeze_97.

Actually Jeff, I was referring to your statement of ownership, taking it to the next level. Do I have to sink a boat to know that THAT sucks? I have no knowledge of your family sailing history. What's particularly weird now is how I'm being called one-sided by the O.P. Whatever.  

Mr; Seebreeze; Just wondering, have you owned a Pearson? Curious about your point of view of the vessel...if you did!  

conquistatadore said: yes, its around 13000 lbs, full keel, and was built 40 years ago ! Not too many boats in that era (even newer full keel ones) were built to be FAST by today's std. Click to expand...

mr; Cool; I like the Cal boats and Islanders alot. Columbia is good too, just not my style! Almost bought a nice Cal 34, but it was out of town and sold before i got to it. I'd love to get a nice Cal.! How are the Cal 29? see alot of them for sale. is it similar to 30?  

+1 el Conquistadore! You typed: "It seems people can get very harsh about boats here that they dont like and it gets ugly..." This always seems to happen to MacGregor 26 owners but when the hairs get split finely enough someone always feels put down. Jeff_H's dispassionate analysis of this or that boat design standard has more then once raised the dander of the owner of an 'X' or 'Y' brand/model boat that was lower ranked then an 'A', 'B' or 'C'. When we bought our Tartan 27' (1967) 7 years ago I had only done some minor research on the subject and did not even know that sailnet.com existed much less Jeff_H. In other words, I stumbled upon this little old boat and wanted it despite the advice of some friends saying it was too old and would need sooo much work. Instead, I bought the boat since it was in good condition (for it's age), entirely functional, appealed to me, was in my price range and appeared to be a high quality product in it's day (from my limited research 7 years ago). When we race our T27 now I am certain that the owners of such boats as the Melges 24 among others really enjoy forcing us into foul air and extra tacks for no reason other then 'they can'. One day we may 'inadvertantly' t-bone one of their fast scows and have to rescue them from the water! We also race against a Pearson 30' that always does well in our division. I have never sailed on a Pearson of any length but I have always admired them. There is a 26' Pearson that looks for all the world like my T27 with its full keel and dog house but minus the center board we have. Kind of like a not too distant cousin from the same era. The Pearson boats have a solid reputation, are well made and had I stumbled upon one that appealed to me that was in my price range I would have bought a Pearson instead. I have a friend who bought a MacGregor 26 'S' model water ballast sailboat. While it is hardly up to the build quality of my sturdy old Tartan it is not the motorboat/sailboat crossbreed that can do 20 knots with a 50 HP engine (the 'X' and 'M' models - no offense intended to owners of these models). His Mac can only take a 9.9 HP and it sails nicely and faster then my old Tartan if a bit tender in a blow over 20k. In fact there are many threads where people bash the MacGregor 26 as a lightweight half breed but I suspect that none of those posters ever set foot on one or even are aware that not all Mac 26's are the same boats they pretend to dislike. It is really all about what floats your boat; whether it is a Lateen rigged Haitian work boat that can carry a heavy duty dump truck or a Melges 24 that is a menace! Every boat is a compromise as are most things in life that one must live with no matter what the 'hot rod' across the dock or street thinks about your ride. Pearsons are good boats - coming from someone who is not an architect or has any credentials in the boat building world. Heck, the Allied Seawind ketch I was on was a nice boat that I was on and would be happy to call my own too. For now I'll stick with what I've got no matter what anyone else thinks or says about it.  

I only have a minute here but I think that it is a huge mistake to say, "My thinking is just so, that any boat can be a great boat if you spend the time to make it one and know its weaknesses and strength." Given your goals this is a huge mistake, the kind that can get you killed out there. I road raced bikes back in the 60's and 70's. Like bikes, boats are designed for a particular purpose, and if used for that purpose work perfectly acceptably buit could be a killer if pushed beyond its capabilities. Back when I raced, guys would buy some street bike and put gummy tires on them and try to go racing. While these bikes were only merely slow on the straightaways, when it came to the high load turns their suspensions were so unpredicable that they would suddenly lose several feet of track often wiping out themselves or adjacent riders. Now then a really good rider might survive that unpredictable behavior, but in the hands of a normal driver, the result was road rash. Similarly, the street brakes of the era would overheat and suddenly leave the driver without brakes and haybales coming their way. Also like bikes, over time our understanding of what makes for safe and reasonable risk has shifted. Not that long before I started racing biked, they did not wear leathers or full face helmits, they used drum brakes, exhaust systems were unshielded, without spark arresters and ran next to your calf or thigh. No one would consider it safe race on a bike like that today. When you talk about doing serious offshore sailing in something like an alberg 35, you can think of it as racing at Daytona with a 1960's era road bike in blue jeans and piss-pot helmet. I'm sure that there are some excellent riders who could pull that off safely, or some moron whose loss no one would mourn, but for the rest of us mortals, its kinda like playing russian roulette with a gun that you picked up and did not even check to see how many bullets are in the cylinder. You are new to this sport, and as I read your words this lack of experience comes across loud and clear. That is perfectly alright, we all had to start somewhere. My concern is the sense that this is all acedemic. Its not. In any dangerous endeavor a reasonable person takes a while to learn and develop well reasoned opinions. Before you jump to conclusions, I strongly suggest that you slow down, do a bunch of sailing on a wide variety of boats, read everything you can, including up to date material, and then hopefully, you can come to a decision that makes sense to you, which may lead you in some totally new directions or may lead you back to the boats that you currently seem drawn to but at least at that point you would understand the risks. Lastly, I want to comment on where you say, "Jeff has his academic reasons". I may express my opinions in an academic manner, but I have lived with and sailed on these kinds of boats in a wide range of conditions and my comments are based these experiences. And just like bikes, when someone tells you can't use 1960's era drum brakes in a 100 mile road race, or someone tells you an Alberg 35 is a miserable boat in heavy going, perhaps beyond boarderline dangerous, especially when loaded to go cruising based on slugging it out in conditions that would not even be all that bad in a better design, you might want to pay attention whether it sounds merely academic or not. Respectfully, Jeff  

conquistatadore said: How are the Cal 29? see alot of them for sale. is it similar to 30? Click to expand...

conquistatadore said: based on what i have seen, Cal boats seem nice. I like Islanders too. (it looks like you own one). I looked at a 30 also Click to expand...

The boats designed by Carl Alberg have proven themselves time and again. An A35 lay ahull in the same storm that killed, what was it, 14 sailors in the Fastnet Race in '79. They had the "newest" IOR designs, many of which were and are difficult or impossible even to get to heave-to, forcing them to run with a storm down the faces of breaking waves--a REALLY BAD idea. Modern boat designs with fin keels, retractable keels, multi-hull, etc. are certainly faster and more convenient than a classic full displacement hull but to equate the safety of this proven design to an old broken bike is ridiculous. Many of your most popular modern boats are built as cheaply as possible with thin glass, keels that fall off, spade rudders that catch every piece of debris in the water, and many mechanical contraptions to break down... but they have pretty galleys and impressive equipment for sitting at docks. All the technical parameters such as capsize ratios and comfort ratings show the Alberg (and other)type full keel designs to be among the safest.  

I own a coaster. Hull 9. Its a very solid boat. Lots of original equipment still on it. I have the last 30 years worth of receipts and the original sail and deck plan. Its also been surveyed thoroughly in the two years I've owned it. With the exception of the rudder, which I have had the yard repair, I've never had to do any serious work on it. The deck is original and very stout. The chainplates and rigging are in great shape and my atomic 4 is still running like a top. I have yet to do any serious offshore work with the boat, but I have extensively sailed it around the chesapeake. I like the boat's design. Its a very classic and solid feeling sailboat. Very easy to handle the sails and strong and fast when the wind picks up. With a good paint and varnish job she will really turn heads. Compared to my pop's 2003 beneteau 423 the pearson is a much better sailor. Also the beneteau has a tendency to pound and shudder. The pearson rarely pounds and when it does it never has the shudder. And as the previous poster suggested it will easily heave to. The heaviest weather I've had the boat in was 35kts sustained out in the chesapeake. I had experienced crew with me; reefed and made appropriate sail choices; and the boat handled admirably. The 6 or 7 foot sea in the bay was especially nasty but the hull tracked very well and it was easy to hold a course. Take my opinion with a grain of salt because I'm no expert; but its my understanding that a well maintained coaster with a few offshore improvements like a companionway and larger cockpit drains would be a relatively safe ride as long as the skipper handles her well and makes good choices. I would never consider something Luke an Atlantic crossing , but a shorter offshore trip with good planning; good weather forecast and a prepared and competent crew should be no problem for the coaster Fyi my boats previous owners have sailed it all over the place.. mostly down to the virgin islands and vicinity..  

Jeff_H said: All right, If I have to... I know the Wanderer, Coaster, Vanguard and Alberg 30 quite well. My family owned a Vanguard back in the 1960's and have sailed and worked on them at various points since. When we considered buying the Vanguard, we visited the Pearson plant and looked at how Coasters and Wanderers were being built, did a sail trail, and I have sailed on and been aboard these boats quite a few times since including racing a Coaster back in the 70's. I also know the Alberg 30 quite well, have sailed on them quite a bit and helped maintain one in exchange for being able to use the boat. Of the bunch, I like the Coaster best in terms of sailing ability and motion comfort. The Coaster was designed to the MORC Rating rule of the day, which produced reasonably wholesome boats in terms of moderately longer water lines than was the trend for that era and more efficient underbodies and higher ballast ratios than was typical for the more popular CCA rating rule derived designs such as the Alberg 30 or Pearson Vanguard. In the case of the Coaster the hull shape was also an improvement over either the Vanguard and Alberg, offering a slightly finer entry, more powerful sections and a cleaner run. This was noticable in a short chop, light air, or in windy reaching conditions. In terms of build quality, all three were built fairly similarly. All three were pretty crudely built. The glass work on all three, while moderately thick, was laid up with resins, glass and laminating techniques that were inferior to the current techniques. These techniques have resulted in hulls which began life not as strong as they may appear and have lost strength over time. Adding to this these boats were built with minimal internal framing and the lack of internal framing further reduces thier robustness. Beyond the hull, there are other construction issues that relate to the period during which these boats were built. Some of these items are easily recitified, and may have been addressed by previous owners. For example, in that era, tinned wiring was pretty rare, and connections were often soldered. Even when these boats were new, the electrical systems were often a pain in the butt to maintain. Obviously with time, these early wiring systems would need replacement if they are to remain reliable. There are other issues as well. Depending on the year and option, all three boats were built with formica faced plywood bulkheads (I should note that I have sailed on both Alberg 30's and a Coaster which had naturally finished mahogany plywood builkheads that I can only surmise must have been an option, I don't know what was the relative proportion of A-30's and Coasters with formica vs natural ply). Formica faced plywood was a nice option in terms of being easy to keep clean and low initial maintenance, but a poor choice over time, the bulkheads can rot out behind the formica, nearly undetected until there is a structural failure. I looked at a Vanguard that had much of its bulkheads floating free of the hull where the plywood had held moisture against the rotting plywood behind. The nice thing about varnished mahogany plywood is that it can be observed for deterioration and issues addressed before they become more serious. The Coaster was a later design than the other two and so employed more molded liner and interior components than the other two. This is good in many ways but it does make access a bit harder. In terms of your proposed use, none of these three boats are especially good offshore cruisers. They were all intended as inshore racer cruisers. While I know that all of these boats have been taken offshore, in my mind they would all be a poor choice. I would say that of the three the Coaster would probably be my choice as an all around better design. Respectfully, Jeff Click to expand...

I would have no problem recommending a Coaster that has surveyed in good condition for coastal use. They are reasonably good boats for that purpose. Assuming that the boat has been maintained in terms of rigging, and chainplate replacement, and that the wooden structural components have not rotted out behind the Formica, I would expect these boats to do fine in the kinds of conditions normally experienced by the typical coastal cruiser. While not as easy to handle in a blow as many more modern design, they are none the less reasonably seaworthy designs. If all you are doing is coastal cruising, you would not be expected to spend days at a time riding out gale force winds or being thrown from wave tops into the trough (as you might offshore) and so assuming the original structure is intact you should not have to beef things up. If it hasn't been done by prior owners, I would consider sounding out the decks for delamination and adding backing plates on the winches and major cleats. The original mast supports were reasonably robust on the Pearsons. If the original mast support structure is intact and does not show signs of movement or deterioration, it is probably perfectly fine for coastal use. The battery question comes down to several factors that you do not mention. If these are traditional lead/acid batteries you will need to be able to service them, and they should be in a vented compartment where the gases produced by charging cannot be ignited by sparks from the electrical system. The efficiency and durability of these batteries are also impaired by heat. Sealed batteries obviously do not have the same maintenance or explosion issue. Jeff  

Dear Jeff, Thank you for all responding--this is invaluable as we investigate the boat further. Many thanks again, Rad  

oaklandsailor

Dear fellows: I cannot get into chewing on any of the technical bones that several of you seem confident of. I am neither a marine engineer nor naval architect or even a lifetime world cruiser. I've read the entire thread, which is full of food for thought. But I do have a comment: If there's a boat you like and you can find owners who actively cruise and enjoy theirs and who prosper by their ownership, you can have reasonable hopes of doing the same. For example, I have immersed myself in the internet obsessively for the last ten days or so due to my interest in an Alberg 35 that I am considering. A poster above stated that "when someone tells you an Alberg 35 is a miserable boat in heavy going, perhaps beyond boarderline dangerous, especially when loaded to go cruising based on slugging it out in conditions that would not even be all that bad in a better design, you might want to pay attention whether it sounds merely academic or not". This opinion sounds perfectly authoritative, almost intimidatingly so, but I intend to take it with a grain of salt. Maybe two of them. Earlier today, yes, this very day, and I am not making this up, I spoke with a sailor who has spent 15 years on his 1961 A35 single handing in and out of the SF Bay, cruising the boat from SF to Florida and back again with his wife, sailing home from Mexico trapped for several days in heavy weather with nowhere to put in. Sick and eager to be somewhere else, yes, but not fearful nor in any perceived peril at any time. His report, undramatic though it was, never mentioned their feeling unsafe or wishing he'd been in a Swan 43 or similar. Earlier in the week I traded emails with husband/wife cruisers about their experience sailing their A35 to/in the S. Pacific, who stated they are happy with their A35 sloop and felt confident and safe in all the weather they've encountered. Friends, I am not speaking of master mariners or retired shipwrights but middle aged men and woman who've bought the best boat they could afford and then pushed off. Perhaps the reports are out there but I didn't come across any that mentioned lost or capsized A35's. Again, they may exist but I have not seen them. Last is this online review authored by a sailor known as PortMaine, which I culled from the internet yesterday saying: "This is a great cruising boat. Fast and sea kind. Sailed from New England to Australia via Panama. The boat performs very well in heavy weather and handled 50 knot winds and 10 foot seas crossing to Gulf Stream to Bermuda and 35 knot winds and 12 foot following seas leaving Easter Island in the Pacific. Needs a large headsail to perform well in light winds, but her narrow beam lets her slice through the water. We beat many 50 - 60 foot vessels across long passages. You can't beat this boat for a combination of off-shore speed and comfort at all points of sail. The raised transom makes cruising the trade winds and following seas very comfortable....." and "The hull is as solid as steel and over 1" thick below the waterline. We bounced off several rocks and reefs and never had any damage (even one grounding at 5+ knots ~ I won't bother to explain...). This is a vessel that you can feel safe and secure in...." and "Best performance with a large head sail push out on the spinnaker pole. We rattled off several 160 - 180 NM noon runs...." and he or she ends the review of their boat by saying "I would take another Alberg to sea in a heartbeat. The 35' was a good size for our 3 adult crew. Beautiful lines and even better performance" This is not the first glowing report on the A35 I've read. Call me crazy, but cruising a boat that is repeatedly honored as a sound voyager seems like a very good bet. I have yet to see this boat trashed, maligned or dismissed anywhere on the internet except in this thread. And so, very respectfully, I ask: WHAT THE EFF! Thank you. OS  

Abso-fragging-lutely!  

I am the proud owner of a Bristol 32, and say 'Right-On' to OaklandSailor !!!!  

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The Pearson 30 : 1971–1980

We combined an advanced underwater configuration and powerful rig with graceful lines and spacious below-decks comfort to make the Pearson 30 a cruising man's racing boat... or vice versa

Fast and Beautiful

When we introduced the Pearson 30, she was thought of as a boat with the ability to "go both ways." We combined an advanced underwater configuration and powerful rig with graceful lines and spacious below-decks comfort to make the P30 a cruising man's racing boat... or vice versa.

Comments from cruising skippers like, "Really comfortable" and "Makes me feel like a better sailor," combined with the ability to perform on the race course - attest to the versatility of this honest boat. Further, the Pearson 30 is tangible evidence of Bill Shaw's contention that a fast boat can be beautiful.

Step aboard and study the clean, uncluttered lines and wide walkways. From the helm the visibility is excellent. Her 7'6" cockpit provides room for the whole family with cockpit stowage provided in a lazarette aft and a roomy sail locker to starboard. Her non-skid deck surfaces and that solid feeling underfoot are typical Pearson quality fiberglass construction.

Step below and see why so many racing skippers' wives find cruising a real pleasure aboard this versatile boat. Immediately to starboard at the bottom of the companionway is an "L" shaped galley with sink, icebox, optional 2-burner alcohol stove with stowage lockers and drawers below and above. To port, extending aft under the cockpit is a quarterberth with stowage under.

The main cabin offers room and accessibility while underway and comfortable accommodations while at anchor. The port berth which converts to a double serves to seat three at the bulkhead mounted table. Opposite, the starboard berth can seat three more with the bulkhead table leaf up.

Stowage is provided under both port and starboard berths and above in lockers and shelves. Large fixed ports let in plenty of light and, despite her low profile, there's 6'1" headroom below.

Forward is a large athwartships toilet room, a large hanging locker to port, and vanity unit with wash basin to starboard.

The forepeak has a huge double berth designed for comfort. Two fixed ports provide light, and overhead, the hatch makes for easy headsail changes. There's additional stowage below the berths and above on ample shelves.

Your choice of decorator fabrics is available to add that personal touch.

A compromise boat? Ask a crusing or racing family who owns one. And more importantly, check out the resale value of the Pearson 30 (if you can find a used one!).

Cast off and Come Sail With Us... then decide for yourself.

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• Sailboat Reviews

This 1970’s-era racer cruiser was available in standard full-cabin and One Design expanded cockpit versions. In their time, both were competitive in club racing. Today, the Pearson 26 is a good family boat at an affordable price.

When Bill Shaw in 1970 drew the lines for the Pearson 26, Pearson Yachts had been in business for 14 years, but had undergone several management changes. It had a broad product line but, in Shaw’s words, “needed a shot in the arm.” Following introduction of the Pearson 26, sales occurred so quickly that the company was forced to start a second production line.

History Pearson yachts was formed in 1956 by the Pearson cousins, Clinton and Everett, and Fred Heald. The trio set up shop in rented space in the basement of a textile plant in Bristol, Rhode Island, where they built six different dinghies designed for club racing. They introduced the Carl Alberg-designed Pearson Triton at the New York Boat Show in 1959; 17 Tritons were sold and more orders poured in. The company found itself in the center ring of the boatbuilding circus.

The company operated so successfully during the merger mania of the 60’s that it was purchased by Grumman Industries. However, like most entrepreneurial types, it didn’t take long for the two Pearsons to chafe at the corporate yoke; Clint was the first to depart in 1964, to form a company that eventually became Bristol Yachts. Everett departed in 1966 and later joined Neil Tillotson in a joint venture that resulted in the formation of Tillotson-Pearson Industries, the firm that today manufactures everything from J-Boats to blades for wind generators and hot tubs, using the SCRIMP resin infusion process.

After cutting his teeth at Sparkman & Stephens, Bill Shaw arrived in 1966 to assume the duties of chief in-house designer, and later as general manager. Among the business tenets he brought to the company was the S & S philosophy that conservative construction techniques prevent failures.

“We calculated loads and designed rigs with a safety factor of three; attachments were designed with a safety factor of four. It might sound like overkill, but we never knew the exact loads a boat would experience,” he recalled.

During his tenure, the company developed a product line that included a dozen boats ranging in size from 23′ to 53′. At one time, it had nine production lines running in Rhode Island, Texas and Florida, and was selling 300-400 boats a year that generated $22-$25 million in sales.

Shaw remained with Pearson Yachts through the time Gordon Clayton bought the company from Grumman and until it closed its doors in 1990.

Design Shaw’s first boats at Pearson were the 30-foot Coaster and Wanderer, which were introduced in 1966. He followed with five other boats before introducing the Pearson 26. Most of his designs reflected the industry trend away from the CCA rule; Shaw’s boats typically had longer waterlines and were beamier than their predecessors, with more spacious accommodations for families. They also displayed a turn of speed.

“The Alberg design and Tritons had run their course,” Shaw said of the genesis of the P 26. “We needed something new.”

The Renegade, a 27-footer he had introduced in 1996, had what was then a revolutionary underbody—separation of the rudder from the keel. The Renegade had a spade rudde, and what was then considered a fin keel, though in today’s vernacular it could be described as having a large cruising fin or a cutaway forefoot.

“So I designed the underbody of the 26,” he said, “with the same type of rudder, but a swept back keel,” that is entirely different than the Renegade. The keel of the P 26 fits today’s profile of a fin; both fore and trailing edges are swept aft and hang from the hull free of other appendages.

“The other design target was price,” he said. As a consequence, the first P 26 was introduced with a sticker price of $5,200, $1,000 less than its prime competitor, the Columbia 26. Dealers and consumers liked the new boat; 100 were sold immediately and the company was soon running two production lines for the P 26 alone.

“It was a lifesaver,” Shaw admitted.

When viewed from the bow or stern, or seen in photos taken from a helicopter, the boat presents a pleasing profile. She has a relatively fine entry, generous but not ungainly beam, and a moderately narrow stern.

Viewed from abeam, however, the high cabintop, which has two levels, is distracting, despite a pleasing shear line and moderate bow overhang. Aesthetics aside, though the high cabintop produces a rather generous 5′ 8″ of headroom below, many owners complain that it impairs visibility forward when seated. Though a valid complaint, in our experience we’ve found that a tiller extension and sitting on the cockpit coaming does much to alleviate that problem.

The Pearson 26 One Design (OD), which has an identical hull and underbody, has a much more conventional and pleasing profile. Except for the difference in windage, the boats are nearly twins; the significant difference is that at 8′ 11″ the cockpit of the 26 OD is 2′ longer then the P 26, with a corresponding reduction in space belowdecks and less headroom. The 26 OD is also 200 lbs. lighter.

Compared to most Pearson models, the P 26 has a rather high aspect ratio mainsail that sails well with a 150% genoa in 16-18 knots of breeze, without reefing the main. It carries 321 sq. ft. of sail under a 100% working jib, with a mast that is 31′ 6″ above the deck, and a 10′-long boom that is high enough above the cockpit to clear the heads of most crew when changing course. The D/L ratio is a rather moderate 228, and the SA/D ratio is 17.1, which places it in the performance category when compared to most boats of the same vintage. Many owners told PS that the P 26 holds its own in fleets of 30-foot boats.

Construction Like every boat produced by Pearson during the 1970’s, construction of the P 26 was fairly straightforward.

Solid fiberglass hulls were laid up by hand using alternating layers of mat and roving. Decks were cored with end-grain balsa. Interiors in the P 26 were “reinforced fiberglass interior units” (a pan) that included V-berth, settees, compartments for the hanging locker and head, and countertops port and starboard below the companionway.

Shaw pointed out that interior cabinetry and shelving was designed to fit into pre-molded areas with high tolerances so as to avoid extensive carpentry.

“The shelves on the hull in the forward compartment don’t run all the way to the bow, or aft to the bulkhead. All the carpenters had to do for proper installation was fit screws into predrilled holes,” he said.

Stainless steel chainplates were secured with four stainless steel bolts to fiberglass sections molded into the interior of the hull. The main bulkhead was made of plywood with a wood grain facing that was tabbed to the hull using alternating layers of mat and roving that overlapped each seam by 3″.

Shaw pointed out that “the outer three inches of the bulkhead were milled until bare wood was exposed so we would have a good bond.” He is unaware of any failures.

The hull-deck joint is criticized because of leaks on many boats, which Shaw attributes to two conditions.

“The joint was an inward flange on hull and deck, which we bonded with glass and then covered with a vinyl rail. However, the failure was not in our construction method but in the adhesives available at that time. We used silicone in the joint and it eventually failed.”

A second contributor was the pool used to test boats before they were shipped. Under normal circumstances, boats were dropped into a 50′ x 80′ pond, an inspector was placed belowdecks, and overhead sprinklers doused boats while the inspector searched for leaks.

“When the temperature in the shed fell below 15 degrees,” he said. “the water crystals would freeze so we had no indication of leaks until the boats were delivered to warmer climates.”

Many owners comment on the failure of the rudder bearing, which Shaw attributes primarily to the effect of long-term use or silt.

“Nylon bearings were placed at both ends of the rudder tube. Under continuous heavy use, or in areas where there is silt in the water, they will eventually fail and require replacement,” he said. Owners say they need frequent replacement.

The P 26 has an external iron keel fitted into a recess in the hull where it is secured by four keel bolts. A comment among owners is that cracks caused by movement of the keel will appear at the junction of hull and keel. A cosmetic blemish, the crack is not indicative of a structural weakness, though inspection of keel bolts on any aging vessel should be done at regular intervals. Another common complaint is that the iron keel was not properly prepped and is susceptible to rust.

The anodized aluminum mast on both models is stepped on the deck and supported by an athwartships beam located forward of the cabin bulkhead. Because it is in close proximity to the hatch over the V-berth, it should be inspected annually. Water may invade the area and cause delamination of it. Also check both ends of the compression post.

The boat has adequate light for a 26-footer. Both models have two large, fixed ports in the main salon, and two smaller fixed ports in the forward sleeping compartment. Reading lights were installed in the main cabin and forward.

Interior One of Shaw’s goals in the design of the boat was to create four berths large enough for average sized adults, and he succeeded with the P 26. The V-berth forward is enclosed by solid sliding doors, measures 6′ 5″ on the centerline, and is adequate for two adults or three children. In the main cabin, a 7′ settee to starboard converts to a berth; the dinette table, which is marginally large enough as a dining table for a couple and two children, converts to a 6′ berth.

The enclosed water closet is located between the two cabins; a hanging locker is opposite the head.

The galley has a sink located aft to port and a pressurized alcohol stove, which would be among the first items we would replace on any boat. Alcohol, once touted as the safest stove fuel, has a light blue flame that is difficult to see. And attempts to put out alcohol fires with water usually result in just pushing the flame around, rather than extinguishing it. These problems, however, are most common with pressurized stoves. The Origo non-pressurized stoves, often seen as retrofits, are much easier to fill and safer to operate.

A small ice chest is located below the companionway step.

The 26 OD has smaller accommodations and fewer creature comforts unless they were added as options. It has the same V-berth forward. A portable toilet was optional. Little privacy is afforded by curtains enclosing the head and forward berth.

Because the cockpit is 2′ longer than the P 26, the cabin is proportionately shorter, so the average 6-footer sleeping on berths amidships will be cramped.

If an optional two-burner stove and sink were installed to port on the bulkhead, the port berth will be of little use except as a seating area.

Storage in both models is below the V-berth and settees. Shelves run along both sides of the hull in the bow and main cabin. A small cavity in the bow serves as a storage area for an anchor rode. A 22-gallon water tank is located beneath the V-berth in the P 26.

Overall, the combination of the boat’s 8′ 8-1/2″ beam and 5′ 8″ headroom combine to create a reasonably comfortable 26-footer.

Deck Layout The deck layout on both models is uncomplicated and clean.

The self-bailing cockpit of the P 26 comfortably seats four adults; the OD is large enough for six. Because the tiller extends forward of the standard Lewmar #7 jib winches, most crews will trim sails from a position aft of the helmsman. Molded fiberglass lips running athwartships atop the coachroof and on the deck just forward of the cockpit deflect water overboard, a nice touch that’s uncommon on boats of this vintage.

To accommodate the jib sheet leads, a short section of T-track is located outboard on the toerail.

The mainsheet is an end-boom arrangement that terminates at the stern, so it is also easily controlled by the jib trimmer. The boat is easy to doublehand, even when flying a spinnaker.

Main and jib halyards are 7 x 19 wire with Dacron tails led to cleats on the mast. Because of the stepped cabintop, it will be difficult to lead halyards aft to sheet stoppers; considering the short distance to the mast, we consider that a minor shortcoming. Though this is a small boat, we’d still opt for roller furling.

Lazarettes on both sides of the cockpit provide storage for sails and gear.

Auxiliary For auxiliary power, Pearson recommended an outboard in the 6- to 10-hp. range. Most owners surveyed have 8- or 10-hp. motors, and claim speeds of 5-6 knots. Because of the height of the transom, a long-shaft outboard will be most efficient and quiet. Cavitation is a risk with a short-shaft motor.

On the 26 OD, the port lazarette is designated for a fuel tank; a 5-gallon fuel tank fits securely beneath the starboard seat on the P 26.

Performance We sailed the P 26 in the blustery northwesterlies that predominate on San Francisco Bay during summer months, and in the same conditions in the Pacific Ocean outside the Golden Gate. We found her performance equal to or better than that of similarly sized boats. She’ll hold her own against the Cal 27s, Catalina 27s and Ericson 27s of the same generation.

She sails well to weather, tacks through 90° of apparent wind, and is stable downwind, though we were unable to test her flying a spinnaker.

The P 26 is also relatively dry when pounding to weather in the short, 2- to 4-foot chop encountered on the bay, and handles ocean swells without hobbyhorsing. As a safety precaution, we sailed with hatchboards in place when sailing downwind in the ocean.

Conclusion Though nearly 30 years old, Shaw’s design of this daysailer/cruiser still has tremendous appeal, especially compared to the cost of new boats of the same size. She affords couples with children adequate space in the cockpit and below decks to sail or overnight in relative comfort. She is still competitive in racing fleets, though the 26 OD will have more appeal to racers, despite the tradeoffs in creature comforts.

She’s well built, but will require maintenance of the hull-deck joint and the rudder bearings. Also check the keel bolts, and the iron keel for signs of corrosion.

Aesthetically, owner criticism of the high crown of her cabin is legitimate, but it’s a visual impediment easily overcome by the addition of a tiller extension.

The boat rides easily at anchor, and with the forward hatch propped open it is well ventilated.

Because 1,777 traditional 26s were built, compared to 262 ODs, the former will be easier to find on the used market. Most ODs were placed in racing fleets along the East Coast.

Potential buyers should be able to find a well-maintained P 26 for $6,000-$8,000—an excellent value.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Great article! The Austin Yacht Club on Lake Travis, Texas has a growing fleet of Pearson 26s and 26ODs. We now have nineteen boats and race regularly with ten boats on the line. These are the last of the 70s “Racer/Cruisers” and are very family friendly. You can cruise overnight with the family on Saturday and race on Sunday. They were so well built. We had one made in 1971 racing and cruising.

As the P 26 cockpit is clearly hard white fiberglass, sitting on a square, throw life cushion is desirable. If healing at all, this allows fine visibility over the cabin top. If sailing flat or motoring, I simply stack two cushions and enjoy the view. No problem and a comfortable sit. My hull is 1972, #176? I will have to look it up.

Very helpful article. I relied on this and other similar articles before purchasing mine. I have a 26 OD, Hull No. 1. It’s tender but stable once you hit about 20 degrees of heel. I haven’t sailed it in winds over 35mph, but even at that speed, it felt safe. In the choppy (2-5′) Delaware Bay, it stays dry. The original alcohol stove probably needs replacing, but having used similar ones with the Boy Scouts, I’m content for now. I’m 6’3″, which makes the shorter cabin top a painful inside experience. I don’t see the point in making it shorter than the regular P26, because you still have to kneel or stand to see over the top. But I fit in the quarter berths on each side (one is about 6’5″ and the other 7′ plus) and I fit and share the v-berth with my girlfriend and dog. A hammock fits nicely between the mast and forestay.

GREAT INFO. I just purchased a 1976, hull # 1281. She appears to begin very good condition for that age but needs a pressure clean. Your review has given me EXCELLANT knowledge and advice.

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• Sailboat Guide

Pearson 30 is a 29 ′ 9 ″ / 9.1 m monohull sailboat designed by William Shaw and built by Pearson Yachts between 1971 and 1981.

• 2 / 34 Chicago, IL, US 1972 Pearson 30 $7,500 USD View
• 3 / 34 Deltaville, VA, US 1976 Pearson 30 $15,000 USD View
• 4 / 34 Bayfield, WI, US 1975 Pearson 30 $8,000 USD View
• 5 / 34 Chicago, IL, US 1972 Pearson 30 $7,500 USD View
• 6 / 34 Deltaville, VA, US 1976 Pearson 30 $15,000 USD View
• 7 / 34 Bayfield, WI, US 1975 Pearson 30 $8,000 USD View
• 8 / 34 Chicago, IL, US 1972 Pearson 30 $7,500 USD View
• 9 / 34 Deltaville, VA, US 1976 Pearson 30 $15,000 USD View
• 10 / 34 Bayfield, WI, US 1975 Pearson 30 $8,000 USD View
• 11 / 34 Chicago, IL, US 1972 Pearson 30 $7,500 USD View
• 12 / 34 Deltaville, VA, US 1976 Pearson 30 $15,000 USD View
• 13 / 34 Bayfield, WI, US 1975 Pearson 30 $8,000 USD View
• 14 / 34 Chicago, IL, US 1972 Pearson 30 $7,500 USD View
• 15 / 34 Deltaville, VA, US 1976 Pearson 30 $15,000 USD View
• 16 / 34 Bayfield, WI, US 1975 Pearson 30 $8,000 USD View
• 17 / 34 Chicago, IL, US 1972 Pearson 30 $7,500 USD View
• 18 / 34 Deltaville, VA, US 1976 Pearson 30 $15,000 USD View
• 19 / 34 Bayfield, WI, US 1975 Pearson 30 $8,000 USD View
• 20 / 34 Deltaville, VA, US 1976 Pearson 30 $15,000 USD View
• 21 / 34 Bayfield, WI, US 1975 Pearson 30 $8,000 USD View
• 22 / 34 Chicago, IL, US 1972 Pearson 30 $7,500 USD View
• 23 / 34 Deltaville, VA, US 1976 Pearson 30 $15,000 USD View
• 24 / 34 Bayfield, WI, US 1975 Pearson 30 $8,000 USD View
• 25 / 34 Chicago, IL, US 1972 Pearson 30 $7,500 USD View
• 26 / 34 Chicago, IL, US 1972 Pearson 30 $7,500 USD View
• 27 / 34 Deltaville, VA, US 1976 Pearson 30 $15,000 USD View
• 28 / 34 Deltaville, VA, US 1976 Pearson 30 $15,000 USD View
• 29 / 34 Bayfield, WI, US 1975 Pearson 30 $8,000 USD View
• 30 / 34 Deltaville, VA, US 1976 Pearson 30 $15,000 USD View
• 31 / 34 Deltaville, VA, US 1976 Pearson 30 $15,000 USD View
• 32 / 34 Deltaville, VA, US 1976 Pearson 30 $15,000 USD View
• 33 / 34 Deltaville, VA, US 1976 Pearson 30 $15,000 USD View
• 34 / 34 Deltaville, VA, US 1976 Pearson 30 $15,000 USD View

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

In production for nearly 10 years, with more than 1000 built, this was one of Pearson’s most successful models. The designer, Bill Shaw, owned a Pearson 30 for a number of years. Early models had Palmer inboards.

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