pearson coaster 30 sailboat review

PRICE: A used P-30 can be found for between $5,000 and $19,000, depending on the year of construction, overall condition and amount of upgrades. DESIGN QUALITY: The boat's scimitar-shaped rudder and soft bushings have their detractors, but overall the P-30 stays in the winner's circle, especially its encapsulated hull that has no keel bolts and little maintenance. CONSTRUCTION QUALITY: Born in the days when fiberglass boats were typically overbuilt, the P-30 is no exception. The hull is solid, the deck hardware and standing rigging super strong. USER-FRIENDLINESS: The P-30 has a simple sailplan and easy onboard systems. It requires early reefing. It is easy to handle in a light breeze and a comfortable racer-cruiser despite the annoyance of a long tiller handle. The engine is accessible by lifting the companionway steps, but the oil dipstick is located on the back side and difficult to reach. The boat has a head but no shower. SAFETY: Like most racer-cruisers, it's a compromise design and should be reefed early and often. Upgrades such as a vang or traveler can help tame the relatively long boom. TYPICAL CONDITION: Used P-30s run the gamut from pristine to project boat, but the vast majority offer a solid hull, sound deck and reliable standing rigging. REFITTING: Of all needed improvements, most later owners seem to target the Atomic 4 for replacement by a diesel. This is likely the most expensive undertaking for a refit, followed by attention to the rudder post and to the compression post where the mast steps onto the keel. The latter is mostly labor since a new compression post can be easily fashioned. Since no sewage discharge laws were in effect when the P-30 was made, the head must be updated with a Y-valve and a waste holding tank in most waters. Many owners added a boom vang and a traveler to make sailing in big winds a bit easier. SUPPORT: An active group of P-30 owners can be found online at the Pearson Sailing Association of the Chesapeake Bay at the website www.cbpsa.org. Additional information on the P-30 is available at www.sailboatdata.com and on blogs posted by specific P-30 owners. AVAILABILITY: Plenty of P-30s are available on both the East and West coasts of the U.S., in Florida, Texas, the Great Lakes and Canada. INVESTMENT AND RESALE: Depending the degree of upkeep and overall condition, the P-30 can be a sound investment. Most owners do not consider the P-30 a bluewater boat so its value is limited to coastal cruising.

Also in Used Boat Notebook

• Hunter Passage 42
• Pearson Rhodes 41
• Santa Cruz 52
• Allied Princess 36
• Kelly-Peterson 46

Also from David Liscio

• Chasing a dream
• The wide, wide world of multihulls
• Flares are expired. Now what?
• Saved from the scrap heap
• Pedal to the Medal

COASTER 30 (PEARSON) Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of COASTER 30 (PEARSON). Built by Pearson Yachts and designed by William Shaw, the boat was first built in 1966. It has a hull type of Fin Keel and LOA is 9.14. Its sail area/displacement ratio 15.07. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Universal, runs on Gas.

COASTER 30 (PEARSON) has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about COASTER 30 (PEARSON) and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the coaster 30 (pearson).

COASTER 30 (PEARSON) was designed by William Shaw.

Who builds COASTER 30 (PEARSON)?

COASTER 30 (PEARSON) is built by Pearson Yachts.

When was COASTER 30 (PEARSON) first built?

COASTER 30 (PEARSON) was first built in 1966.

How long is COASTER 30 (PEARSON)?

COASTER 30 (PEARSON) is 7.09 m in length.

What is mast height on COASTER 30 (PEARSON)?

COASTER 30 (PEARSON) has a mast height of 9.45 m.

Member Boats at HarborMoor

Review of Coaster 30

Basic specs..

The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all.

The boat equipped with a masthead rig. The advantage of a masthead rig is its simplicity and the fact that a given sail area - compared with a fractional rig - can be carried lower and thus with less heeling moment.

The Coaster 30 is equipped with a long keel. A full keel provide a better directional stability than a similar boat with a fin keel; on the other hand, better directional stability means also that the boat is more difficult to handle in a harbour with less space.

The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.40 - 1.50 meter (4.59 - 4.89 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

The boat is typically equipped with a Universal Atomic 4 gasoline engine at 30 hp (22 kW). Calculated max speed is about 6.4 knots.

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Coaster 30 is 1.76, indicating that this boat could - if evaluated by this formula alone - be accepted to participate in ocean races.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.5 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Coaster 30 is about 134 kg/cm, alternatively 755 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 134 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 755 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is a Ballast Ratio?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 15m 2 (161 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Coaster 30 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

Pearson Yachts Portal

The Pearson 30 : 1971–1980

We combined an advanced underwater configuration and powerful rig with graceful lines and spacious below-decks comfort to make the Pearson 30 a cruising man's racing boat... or vice versa

Fast and Beautiful

When we introduced the Pearson 30, she was thought of as a boat with the ability to "go both ways." We combined an advanced underwater configuration and powerful rig with graceful lines and spacious below-decks comfort to make the P30 a cruising man's racing boat... or vice versa.

Comments from cruising skippers like, "Really comfortable" and "Makes me feel like a better sailor," combined with the ability to perform on the race course - attest to the versatility of this honest boat. Further, the Pearson 30 is tangible evidence of Bill Shaw's contention that a fast boat can be beautiful.

Step aboard and study the clean, uncluttered lines and wide walkways. From the helm the visibility is excellent. Her 7'6" cockpit provides room for the whole family with cockpit stowage provided in a lazarette aft and a roomy sail locker to starboard. Her non-skid deck surfaces and that solid feeling underfoot are typical Pearson quality fiberglass construction.

Step below and see why so many racing skippers' wives find cruising a real pleasure aboard this versatile boat. Immediately to starboard at the bottom of the companionway is an "L" shaped galley with sink, icebox, optional 2-burner alcohol stove with stowage lockers and drawers below and above. To port, extending aft under the cockpit is a quarterberth with stowage under.

The main cabin offers room and accessibility while underway and comfortable accommodations while at anchor. The port berth which converts to a double serves to seat three at the bulkhead mounted table. Opposite, the starboard berth can seat three more with the bulkhead table leaf up.

Stowage is provided under both port and starboard berths and above in lockers and shelves. Large fixed ports let in plenty of light and, despite her low profile, there's 6'1" headroom below.

Forward is a large athwartships toilet room, a large hanging locker to port, and vanity unit with wash basin to starboard.

The forepeak has a huge double berth designed for comfort. Two fixed ports provide light, and overhead, the hatch makes for easy headsail changes. There's additional stowage below the berths and above on ample shelves.

Your choice of decorator fabrics is available to add that personal touch.

A compromise boat? Ask a crusing or racing family who owns one. And more importantly, check out the resale value of the Pearson 30 (if you can find a used one!).

Cast off and Come Sail With Us... then decide for yourself.

Pearson Yachts Inc. 1975

Pearson 30 On The Web

Pearson 30 Used Boat Review - SpinSheet Magazine

Pearson 30 Specifications - SailboatData.com

Pearson-Info P30 - dan.pfeiffer.net

Pearson 30 Resources

Pearson 30 Owners Guide - view

Pearson 30 Brochure - view

Pearson 30 Brochure

Click to enlarge

The Pearson 30 is a 29.79ft masthead sloop designed by William Shaw and built in fiberglass by Pearson Yachts between 1971 and 1981.

1000 units have been built..

The Pearson 30 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally small. There is a very short water supply range.

Pearson 30 for sale elsewhere on the web:

Main features

Login or register to personnalize this screen.

You will be able to pin external links of your choice.

See how Sailboatlab works in video

We help you build your own hydraulic steering system - Lecomble & Schmitt

Accommodations

Builder data

Other photos

Modal Title

The content of your modal.

Personalize your sailboat data sheet

Paste a link here:

Give it a title:

And eventually a link to an image for the thumbnail:

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe
• Thread starter fred1diver
• Start date Nov 20, 2021
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

hey everyone, I know I would rather have a blue water boat but until I get enough money to find my dream boat, I would still like to upgrade my Grampian 26 to something a bit bigger, I found a Pearson 30 that seems to be in good shape at a good price, but I would like to hear what people who have sailed on one think about it. thank you in advance  

I've always liked the Pearson 30's. They do tend to have the Atomic 4 gasoline engine that I don't care for, well, that engine is fine, I just don't like gasoline on my sailboat. But that's just personal preference. The Pearson 30's I've sailed on seemed to sail quite well. They are a bit narrow on the interior compared to some other boats of that same vintage, but overall, nice boat. dj  

Hi, i have some time on the p30. Sweet sailing boat. Nice feel from the tiller. Well balanced. Small inside (compared to many other 30’ boats) barry  

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

The Pearson made boats are great sailboats. Granted they are from an earlier design standard. Narrow boat beam 9.5ft. Why the seem small compared to more modern designs. with a capsize rating of 1.88 they are an ocean going boat. Still they are considered coastal cruisers.  

fred1diver said: hey everyone, I know I would rather have a blue water boat but until I get enough money to find my dream boat, I would still like to upgrade my Grampian 26 to something a bit bigger, I found a Pearson 30 that seems to be in good shape at a good price, but I would like to hear what people who have sailed on one think about it. thank you in advance Click to expand

Practical Sailor has a good write-up about the Pearson 30. Friends had one and enjoyed it a lot. Quite the capable cruiser, though it seems only half as wide as a Catalina. Sails beautifully and is quite quick in light air. They seem to hold up well and are not too complicated to fix if need be.  

David in Sandusky

The Pearson 30 design is good for blue water cruising. Certainly, equipment and mods would be needed to make it ready. I would go see the boat for sale. If you like the looks and interior and a survey is OK, this would be a good boat to start with. And may well carry you to your blue water dreams.  

Just make sure it's a Pearson 30, not a Pearson Flyer which is also 30'. The Flyer is a great boat for racing but not at all a cruiser. I raced on a Flyer for a few years on Lake Ontario, lots of fun but a handful in a breeze.  

Make sure that IF this one of the Pearson's with rubber gasket under each stanchion base, that someone has re-bedded all of them properly. Coring was probably replaced in the process. (It was a production decision with very unpleasant consequences. ) Where possible, like maybe aft under the side deck, make sure that the hull/deck joint is solid. Helps a lot to find places where you can view the hull at the top. As stated, good design with a decent rep for sailing. Just be sure you tap and meter the decks.  

We used to have a very nicely maintained one at the club and no one could beat it around the buoys.  

Don’t worry about atomic 4, or gas. Had old (1964) 28’ Triton Pearson with gas Atomic 4 for many years. Very reliable workhorse! (Yes, a gas engine can ignite. You can get hit by lightning or have fatal car wreck driving anywhere…)  

thank you everyone, I'm supposed to go see it this coming Saturday  

fullbore said: (Yes, a gas engine can ignite. You can get hit by lightning or have fatal car wreck driving anywhere…) Click to expand

dLj said: don't like the sound of gasoline engines, Click to expand

DArcy said: The A4 runs pretty smooth and is quieter than a comparable diesel. It doesn't have the same sound and feel of trying to shake itself to bits like a small diesel. The smell I could do without. Click to expand

@dLj do you have insulation in the saloon floor? My diesel is under the floor as well but makes itself well known at cruising RPMs. I've been thinking about adding some soundproofing on the underside of the floors.  

DArcy said: @dLj do you have insulation in the saloon floor? My diesel is under the floor as well but makes itself well known at cruising RPMs. I've been thinking about adding some soundproofing on the underside of the floors. Click to expand

Regarding diesel engine noise and vibration... On any used sailboat over 15 or 20 years old, be sure that the engine mounts have been replaced within the last decade, and that the drive train has been properly aligned. There are thousands of older sailboats out there where no (zero) preventative maintenance has ever been done on this stuff. A succession of owners will have adopted the approach of "out of sight, out of mind". Also, if the original builder installed foil-face acoustic foam around the engine, it's likely all fallen down or disintegrated from oil vapors and heat. Most of those old engines will run forever, or until replacement parts become too scarce, but they DO need maintenance of everything around and under them....  

jssailem said: The Pearson made boats are great sailboats. Granted they are from an earlier design standard. Narrow boat beam 9.5ft. Why the seem small compared to more modern designs. with a capsize rating of 1.88 they are an ocean going boat. Still they are considered coastal cruisers. Click to expand

hello everybody, just went to see the boat today, it's in good condition for a 1972, the cushions need to be redone, good thing I do that as a sideline, still debating on it, the guy showed me the last survey just need to wait for a nice day to check the decks. I wish lines would be led aft, but it might be a project for the future, last time I sailed on a boat where halyards were at the mast was during my sailing class lol. what can you all tell me about pressurized alcool stoves, I know most people try to avoid them but it's built in the galley, so replacing would be a challenge. funny thing, well funny to me, the boat has both interior and exterior speakers, but no radio, I'm not sure but a speaker near the compass might not be the best placement lol.  

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

Log in or Sign up

You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser .

Pearson Coaster and Wanderer

Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by Erik S Frampton , Jul 24, 2017 .

• pearson coaster
• pearson wanderer
• weather helm
• william shaw designs

Erik S Frampton New Member

Dear Sailors and Designers, I am strongly considering purchase of either a Wanderer or a Coaster. I spent a whole day in moderate wind on the coaster yesterday. Rigging and Sails were both acceptable and not noticeably spent. My only real problem with her was the weather helm. I found that even on the broadest reach, even on a downwind, that she wanted to point to windward. Quite badly! It made standing to windward of the tiller an uncomfortable effort. I would have felt it quite cautionary on a cruise over distance. Standing to leeward of the tiller allowed the body weight to hold position and control the helm more easily. The Wanderer is 300lbs heavier ballast, but both feature the accused and in some circles accursed barn-door style rudder, and suggest expensive re-design to avoid a "heavy helm" where there is too much pressure on the rudder under way. I did not experience this as much as the tendency for her to steer so eagerly to windward. If the weather helm is well known here, or a problem for this style of Bill Shaw design, then I might re-consider. If anyone knows of cost saving designs or estimates for a new rudder, I would certainly consider it. There is a thread on this site, but it dates from 2003,,,so I'm hesitant to continue there. All comments and suggestions welcome. I'f I purchase the shoal draft Wanderer, I will likely only know its handling after purchase, as it is on the hard. Best regards, Erik S Frampton  

tom28571 Senior Member

The Wanderer is the shallow draft version and as such needs more rudder area than the depth allows without having a barn door style. The Coaster has a much deeper keel and does not have a barn door style rudder. Most all full or 3/4 length keel sailboats of that era tended to develop lots of weather helm because of the short couple between keel and rudder. My old Alberg 30 used to nearly pull my arm out of its socket on a spinnaker reach. That was one reason that designers went to an aft rudder on a skeg or on the transom. That is, to lengthen the steering couple. It is also why some had wheels installed. If the centerboard is dropped part way on a Wanderer it will offer more aft area to partly relieve the weather helm and improve steering. I suspect that there is no quick fix and both boats are rugged and good sailboats in spite of some flaws. Builders had not yet figured out how to make them cheaper and many may not even be subject to blisters or cracked jelcoat. I used to think about adding a flap on the rudder to act as a force multiplier, much like many wind vane self steering rigs.  

PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

Tom has it right and I've made several steer better with a few different modifications. The first is raking the rig forward as much as practical. Neither boat has a traditional barn door rudder, though the Wanderer does have a fairly truncated keel hung, with a prop cutout, which isn't particularly effective. These keel hung styles were never known for good abilities. They were used to offer good protection, sitting behind the keel. I've also put a spade on a Coaster, cutting back the main fin about 18" and supporting the shaft on a strut. I've debated a "Brewer" bite, though can't justify this amount of effort. Given the value and general age of these puppies, maybe a longer tiller is the way to go.  

Excellent confirmation and advice! Thanks. I confirmed with the seller of the Wanderer that he thought the steering was overpowered in a stiff one, but that he thought he was just a little weak. I am not a total novice, but will be on a steep learning curve with either vessel. The Wanderer seems to suffer more than the Coaster, but I really do like the shoal for specific anchorages in my area where normally sailboats cannot go. Even the Coaster was not safely docked near low tide on the Hudson, just a few yards away from a towering 100 foot motor yacht, with 5" of clearance and 3 foot swells from passing boats. Sorry for not noticing the shape difference on the two spec drawings, you're right, the Coaster is angled aft to reduce surface area near the waterline. I was particularly concerned that the "barn door" tries to draw the boat down into the water, fighting not just the water flow across the rudder, but also the buoyancy of the vessel. The owner also assured me that the auto helm for his tiller has no problem keeping course, even when it was stiff for his strength and comfort level. (They are an older couple, but handled a Triton and then the Wanderer for two decades) I will ask the yard to rake the mast decently forward before launch, as I've also read this to be a lessening factor. The Coaster did have quite a tiller handle, damn near reaching the hatch bench. Could easily sit under a small dodger and still pilot just fine. Standing to leeward at the front of the cockpit sole was the most comfortable position. I did notice on my viewing of the Wanderer that the tiller handle was quite short compared to other boats of the same relative vintage and length. I would sooner replace that than any rudder. If you were me, and the condition of each vessel basically averaged out with plusses and minuses, would you trade the slightly better handling of the Coaster (implied above) over the shoal draft of the Wanderer? Or would you consider the handling of each rather a toss-up? Also, I was not too impressed with how well the Coaster was able to point, ESPECIALLY compared to a Pearson 30 (fin keel and spade) which I have sailed in various weather recently. The P30 was much more quickly overpowered, however, where as the Coaster really stiffened up with the wind, looking for more. Finally, what opinion would either of you offer as to the overall handling, seaworthiness, and sailing ability of the two? Can I get an Amen, a blessing or two? Sincerely, erik  

It's not a fair comparison to attempt to match up a canoe body hull form (Pearson 30) to a CCA era boats you're interested in. The Pearson 30 has a spade rudder and well defined fin, while the others are built down hulls with lots of wetted surface, keel hung rudders of marginal effectiveness. There's over a decade of thinking difference between the designs, so naturally the Pearson 30 is superior in most regards. This said, you'd probably prefer to be in the Coaster if it got good and nasty out, in terms of comfort. The yard wouldn't be who I'd let rake the mast. This is something you should do, so you can sneak up on the best tune for the sail plan. It's not especially difficult and you'll know when to stop, or in reality, when to go back because you've gone too far. The yard has no idea how much forward rake to apply to give you any chance at success. Again, I can't really tell you much, mostly because the questions you're asking are owner specific and/or preferences. I live in extreme shoal waters, so the Wanderer would have to be the choice, but you don't have this concern and have a choice. Full keel boats just aren't going to point as well as, a divided appendage, canoe body with a more modern rig. It's like comparing a late 1950's Porsche with a early 1970's Porsche. They're both rear engine, air cooled sports cars that have similar lines, but that's about all they have in common. If I was looking for a boat in this size range, I would be looking for a more modern design. One that wasn't designed nearly a half century prior, so the handling attributes and other "quirks" would be more what you're use to.  

Thank you so much! I was hoping that the Wanderer, with 300lbs more ballast than the Coaster would make up the difference in seaworthiness. The Long Island Sound can indeed get pretty nasty, but shelter is only 30 minutes in either direction in most cases. My cruising aspirations and familiarity with charts and waters does put the Wanderer in the lead ahead of the 4 1/2' needed to float the Coaster, and I have a sneaky suspicion that the Wanderer will do better in light air, with less drag from the truncated keel and with the board raised up. Sorry about the false comparisons of oranges to apples. I was much more interested in the subtler comparison of the Coaster and Wanderer. I've considered the P30 plenty, but do want the relative stability and keel in the older designs. Thank you so much! Best forum I've ever joined on any topic in 25 years of internet!  

I have sailed a Pearson 34 regularly for several years. Even though it has a separate keel/CB and the rudder is well aft, just inside the transom, it also has a tendency toward excessive helm in higher wind. No real effort because it has a wheel but wake coming off the rudder gets noisy and can stall in a hard gust. One solution for all such boats that are not racing is to reduce sail. Centerboard boats have a great attraction in areas like mine where the water is thin and if thin water is a concern, the Wanderer gets higher marks for that. These are older boats although well built and inexpensive. Things like sails, standing rigging condition and engine mechanicals should get some priority in choosing between them as these can get expensive. For price and a decent cruiser, either is a good value and worth some owner sweat to make it a nicer boat.. Newer designs do offer more interior open space but often at the loss of storage.  

I'm a big fan of the old CCA's, particularly as cruisers and their inherently larger storage areas. The ability to carry stores and spares on a cruiser is awful important. The initial stability of the P-30 will be higher than the older boats, though I'd have to check their AVS for ultimate figures. As Tom mentioned, it's more the way the boat is equipped and it's general condition with these older designs. Having to wholesale redo standing rigs, sails, engines, etc. can easily make a seemingly good deal, a not so good one.  

Excellent!! Here's the basic breakdown... The Coaster is more vintage...with few updates. An added hatch over the salon is good for airflow. A wooden anchor pulpit was installed with two rollers for the chain, but it was damaged in a docking event along with the pulpit railing, and the deck fastening there needs complete replacement. Screws were ripped out and fiberglass damaged. The Coaster also features the purchase upgrade of the mahogany laminate plywood interior and cabin sole. This is still beautiful and restorable where moisture has resulted in curling or lifting near the blukhead and mast compression post inside the head at the V-berth. Sink and head both work, but either bulbs, fuses, wiring, or all of the above prevent all running and cabin lights from working except for the single spreader light. A half-rebuild and tuneup was done on the original Atomic 4, with good success in my opinion. Idles and runs fine. Original gas tank. Depth finder works, but not knot meter. Bottom was painted, but not sanded and texture looks a little rough. Stanchion leaks are minor, but they leak! Shore power connection only leads to a power outlet....but is modern and could be hooked up to everything. A small solar panel on the transom keeps the batteries charged. 3,000 negotiable includes mooring in Manhattan (no small deal) and possible dingy with 5 hp mercury. The Wanderer has a fantastic bottom, anti-fowling bottom paint and not a single blemish. Pulpit and windlass are great. 7 sails compliment her inventory. Interior is same layout, with starboard galley, but is the lesser laminate and fiberglass sole (looks identical to the P-30) is less cozy. Sinks and fresh water do not function. Newer diesel engine came fully re-built 7 years ago. Fresh water cooled. Autohelm tiller, better electronics, and full inventory of lights including deck lights attached to spreaders. Additional modern winches in cockpit. Propane stove and tank at stern. The Wanderer has less of a topside, as the current owner tried painting it himself last season, and it is already peeling. Cockpit sole is very soft, nearly trampoline-like...but includes underneath it two additional battery wells. Smaller diesel tank is now is port side lazarette. Roller furling in front with a 150. 3 sails in excellent condition including spinnaker and two poles, 4 additional sails. Good running and standing rigging. 5,000 owner financed at no interest, no dingy, 3 day sail away. He will hold the insurance until the note is paid off in December, but I can move the boat in mid-August. I think the Wanderer is the smarter purchase over time, but the Coaster is right here and quite pretty inside, sold by a friend and quite inexpensive. Insurance might possibly cover the pulpit damage. This is a lot to read....thanks for any additional consideration. Your help has already been more than expected. Best regards, Erik Frampton  

Let's see if I can't narrow it down a bit, the Wanderer needs structural repairs and considerable cosmetic repair and costs more. Both need general maintenance and upkeep (rebedding hardware, etc.), plus some additional upgrades. Price point savings on the Coaster, may cover some if not all of the damage repairs, though the desirable mooring is a good selling point. For most folks, structural repairs (rotten cockpit supports) should be avoided, as this is major surgery and could easily be more than the cost of the boat. A pulpit and other cosmetic stuff can be done by you. Try to ignore the bells and whistles and focus on what each brings to the table and its value to the yacht. Diesel is more desirable than gas, replacing a pulpit, compaired to a cutting open the cockpit should be a no brainer.  

• Advertisement:

Rumars Senior Member

Electronics have no value once installed. Sails have value, as has the diesel but only if in good shape. If the cockpit on the Wanderer is the same as the Coasters (wich I believe is true) you are in for major work. That is a one piece unit with the deck, and balsa cored like it. There are no inside suports whatsoever (hence the trampoline feel, it is suspended). Repairing it means cutting it out, recore and reinstall. I would advise the Coaster for following reasons: 1. Mooring. Do I need to say more? Just research what one costs and how much you have to wait for one. 2. No mooving apendages. Sooner or later a centerboard will need attention. The non working electrics can be safely ignored. A boat of this vintage will usually have a mess of wiring wich needs to be updated anyway. See it as an oportunity to convert to LED and USB standard. Easy to do yourself and the boat can be sailed in the meantime if you start with the running lights and bilge pump. The leaking stanchions and damaged pulpit and roller are minor things, you would have to do the same work of removing and rebedding them on the Wanderer in order to do a decent paint job on the deck. Just do it right with epoxy plugs since it's a balsa cored deck. The Atomic 4 still has a strong comunity going and parts are available. Upgrade to electronic ignition and have a good bilge blower. Dual circuit cooling is available. Diesel only makes sense if you motor a lot or if it's already in the boat. I see no reason to convert. Things to watch out for and recomended upgrades in no particular order (if they are not already in place): 1. Chainplates. That's why the veneer lifted in the head. Probably the same on the other side in the hanging locker, only more difficult to see. So inspect all of them and reseal and replace if suspect. It's not that complicated. 2. Beam over the main bulkhead. Likes to delaminate since the mast sits on top of it and togheter with the door jambs it represents the mast compression structure. 3. Sink and cockpit drainage tubes. Pearson originally only fiberglassed in some tubes without any seacocks. The cockpit drainage is marginal and the sink will drive you crazy. In any kind of seaway it makes a church organ sound due to the changing water level in the tube that will make you doubt your sanity and have you believe you are hallucinating. Same for the cockpit only less noticeable because of the wind. The tubes themselfs are not bad, but some form of valve needs to go on top of them. Cockpit drainage should be updated (read made really big) if you want to go offshore. 4. Sea water tap for the sink. The watertank under the V-berth is small by todays standards. Use an electric pump for seawater and a manual one for fresh water. The good thing is the tank is monel (gas tank also) so no problems there. 5. Hull - deck joint. Can be fiberglassed from the inside with a bit of contorsionism. 6. Boom. Originals can still be found with the old wooden roller reefing boom (and hopefully the cranks for reefing and outhaul). Either you like it and learn to use it or you convert to modern slab reefing. 7. Fold out support for chartplotter and other instruments. Best place for it since with the long tiller you normally sit right at the edge of the bridgedeck and can reach it just fine. The cabin sides are inclined and make wonderfull backrests when anchored, I would not put any instruments there (I do know it looks weird not having them there). 8. Gaskets for the cokpit lockers. 9. Lexan washboard for heavy weather and light at anchor.  

1973 Pearson Portsmouth 43

Project Log - New Keel, Who Dis? (Pearson 26 to Electric Cruiser)

Concept of an unmanned battery-powered coaster - REALLY?

• No, create an account now.
• Yes, my password is:
• Forgot your password?

Visit our Popular Forums

• Monohull Sailboats
• Multihull Sailboats
• Powered Boats
• General Sailing
• Antares Yachts
• Fountaine Pajot
• Lagoon Catamarans

Cruising Business

• Boat Classifieds
• General Classifieds
• Crew Positions
• Commercial Posts
• Vendor Spotlight

Life Aboard a Boat

• Provisioning: Food & Drink
• Families, Kids, & Pets Afloat
• Recreation, Entertainment, & Fun
• Boat Ownership & Making a Living
• Liveaboard's Forum

Seamanship, Navigation & Boat Handling

• Seamanship & Boat Handling
• Training, Licensing, & Certification
• Health, Safety, & Related Gear
• Rules of the Road, Regulations, & Red Tape

Engineering & Systems

• Const. / Maint. / Refit
• Product / Service Reviews
• Electronics: Comms / AV
• Electrical: Batts / Gen / Solar
• Lithium Power Systems
• Engines & Propulsion
• Propellers & Drive Systems
• Plumbing / Fixtures
• Deck Hdw: Rigging / Sails
• Aux. Equipment & Dinghy
• Anchoring & Mooring

Photo Categories

• Member Galleries
• Life Onboard
• Sailing in the Wind
• Power Boats
• Cruising Destinations
• Maint. & Boat Building
• Marine Life
• Scuba Diving & Divers
• General Photos

Recent Photos

Listing Categories

• African Cats
• view more »
• Crew Wanted
• Crew Available
• Enhance Your Account
• Meet the Mods
• Meet the Advisors
• Signup for The Daily Cruiser Email

> > Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. 23-06-2011, 14:54   30'' wich seems to be in great condition and the plan is to sail it all the way to , , also there is a inboard atomic 4 is supposed to be working but i wonder if this is a good ? or should i probably try to fit a ford or chevrolet , excuseme if this is a stupid question i just dont know anything about sail or sailing all arround so i feel a lot safer with a good working gas lol so is it a good ? i will spend a little extra in , rada rada and the basic tech to be safe too i was also wondering if there is anybody in or near with a that would like to teach me the basic , i can cover all the expenses 23-06-2011, 16:12   Boat: Pearson 422 . Whether it is suitable to sail to would also require that the is properly prepared and since it is a bit old, , and other essential checked out and repaired or replaced as necessary. The Atomic 4 is a pretty good engine for boats but it is gasoline. Gas is safer in cars but in boats the fumes can collect in the and a spark could cause an explosion. You have to be very, very careful with gas on a boat. Not sure which Ford or Chevy engine you're talking about but if you want to do anything with the engine put in a small . is a good option. 23-06-2011, 18:47   Boat: O'Day 28 24-06-2011, 08:01   Boat: Custom 41' Steel Pilothouse Cutter a blower. 2) It is not suitable for more than coastal not due to , but to range: Few boats with the tankage in a 30 footer likely carry enough gasoline to motor more than 100 NM. That reason is why is preferred: range and runtime. Diesel gives you more miles per gallon. Diesel engines are happiest when turned on, set to a medium-fast and left alone for hours, i.e. motoring or motor-sailing point-to-point in calms or very light air. That said, you have the same issues of range if you : can you install enough diesel tankage to motor the several hundred miles it is desirable to keep for emergencies on a skinny '70s boat like a ? 3) I agree with the Beta diesel drop-in. I bought one myself (not the drop-in model, just a largish Beta). I still keep an Atomic 4 in good condition in my 33 footer, however, because a gas engine for short haul, "head to wind" sailing typical of inshore/coastal recreational sailing. 4) I do not agree that a is a suitable ocean-going boat, as it is considerably influenced by the IOR design notions, making it a touch and a bumpy ride; its and hatches are not ocean-rated; its is too "weekender", and its tankage is utterly inadequate for ocean passages greater than about one week. It's similar in "ideas" as my '73 Viking 33, another skinny, pinched stern flyer that would be a wet misery on the open ocean...you would arrive, but with bruises, cuts, strains, half-starved, parched, half-drowned and with every port leaking. The 30 on is like taking a Chevy Vega across the Sahara. Yeah, it could happen, but who the hell would endure it? On the other hand, it's very "middle middle", if now quite aged, a design suitable for coastal enjoyment and short hauls within 20 miles of the coast. If you got it for free, it would make a good couples passagemaker after you put about 40 grand into it. As it's at most a ten grand boat, that makes no sense. 24-06-2011, 08:07   Boat: 1976 FORMOSA yankee clipper 41 ideals and numbers, might wanna go . a pearson 30 or pearson of any kind is a good sturdy boat, will NOT take 40k to upgrade it-- shop wisely. folks with WORKING atomic 4 love them. lol make sure bilge blowers are good and work well. otherwise---- no sweat. if ye buy the boat, send pix of the areas you are cruising/sailing and let those of us here know how much you truly did have to put into hr to make her good..lol she is ALREADY GOOD. BTW-- there was a 27 CIRCUMNAVIGATED IN EARLY 1990S--LOL--IF THEY CAN DO THAT IN THAT, YOU CAN DO ANYTHING YOU WANT IN A PEARSON 24-06-2011, 09:20   ALOT ABOUT BOATS , I HAVE TIME AND SOME IN MY HANDS TO BUY AND LEARN HOW TO SAIL AND I SEE THE OLDER BOATS ARE VERY TODAY ANYWAYS IM GONNA KEEP LOOKING, I REALLY LIKED THIS PEARSON , IT IS BEAUTIFUL 2ND OWNER BOAT LOOKS LIKE A 1990, A LOT BETTER THEN MY PIECE OF CRAP ASTRO VAN 1995. TGZZZ I SEE YOU ALSO OWN A PEARSON BOAT LOL DUDE HOW ABOUT THAT DOES YOUR BOAT PEARSON MAKE GOOD COFFES? AND NO IM NOT THE SAME THE WORLD IS FULL OF FOOLS STARTING W/ YOU MAN, YOU ANSWER DIDNT HELP BUT LOOKS LIKE THE PEARSON'S ARE GOOD TO MAKE COOFE OK MAN GOOD LUCK THEN, DOES YOUR MODEL MAKE GOOD CAPUCHINOS? WHAT WILL BE A GOOD OLDER OCEN BOAT? ANY PARTICULAR BRAND / MODEL? THANKS A LOT PEOPPLE 24-06-2011, 09:31   Boat: Sea Sprite 34 and or upgrades. FWIW, Saw an older 37 around VA, MD for 8400 a couple of days ago 31-03-2012, 10:49   ? Are you going to be responsible for others beside yourself? Can you manage emergencies like broken bones, dehydration, etc.? Can you through-hull fittings that begin to leak while underway? Will you be filing a sail plan? Emergeny plan? Atomic-4 gas engine is repairable if you have some experience; but, usually at dockside, not underway. What about shaft and prop ? How much thought have you given to 50 winds, 30 foot waves, blown-out , and broken including the ? I owned and sailed a Pearson 30 on Lake Champlaine and the Cheasepeake for 14 years. Plenty of rough sailing. Mild compared to ocean storms. It's a wet boat in bad . With a good crew and more experience you be OK. Enphasis added. Good luck. Let us know the rest of the story. Regards, Bill Russell 31-03-2012, 10:58   Boat: Ed Monk designed 34' Sloop Second Wind . I would not want to go cruising with 36 year old rigging in any boat. The list goes on and on from there. Here is the Jack Horner review 01-04-2012, 06:43   Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt) 01-04-2012, 17:00   Boat: Lancer 30, Little Jumps 02-04-2012, 11:23   Boat: Leopard Catamaran . Unfortunately I've never found a good solution to this except to make your first boat as small simple inexpensive boat, and plan that while it may meet your short term needs, it probably, (unless you get very lucky), wont meet your eventual cruising needs the first few boats. As you learn more, you'll understand better what you need, and what is comfortable for you, your tollorance for bouncing, and rolling, and ability to handle lines under tension, and,...finally pocketbook. The only downside is if like me, you put too much into your first boat ,and due to general market crash, have trouble unloading it when you are ready to move up. 11-07-2015, 05:39   Boat: Looking for my next boat! . I have the recommended upgrades mentioned in the posts above. The A4 has been replaced with a reliable 2002 diesel. All new standing and running rigging. New sails. Chart plotter, , , flat panel tv, etc. I feel comfortable taking her out in any kind of or sea conditions. However, I'm on , not the ocean. I have to agree, the are not ocean worthy, especially the opening port in the . But that could be replaced. It has good, simple layout. But IMHO, it just does not have the space and room for enough comfort for long ocean crossings. A coastal cruiser, sure. Island hopping in the , definitely. But if I were to south, I would want the Pearson 35...a much bigger boat. And finally, there are plenty of old boats out there. I'm partial to the very pretty boats. But their are rusting out with age...and thats the end for them. The Pearson 30 has an encapsulated ...no to . That alone makes the Pearson 30 a better choice compared to other similarly old (and cheap) boats.             Thread Tools Rate This Thread : Posting Rules post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post sepeteus Monohull Sailboats 112 26-04-2013 05:22 Sabbatical II Marine Electronics 106 08-07-2012 00:43 xoxxx Flotsam & Sailing Miscellany 329 07-06-2012 04:22 Safari38LH Marine Electronics 12 04-04-2012 16:02 CharleyAnna General Sailing Forum 37 01-04-2012 12:39 No Threads to Display. - - - - - - - Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time. New Sailboats Sailboats 21-30ft Sailboats 31-35ft Sailboats 36-40ft Sailboats Over 40ft Sailboats Under 21feet used_sailboats Apps and Computer Programs Communications Fishfinders Handheld Electronics Plotters MFDS Rradar Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments Anchoring Mooring Running Rigging Sails Canvas Standing Rigging Diesel Engines Off Grid Energy Cleaning Waxing DIY Projects Repair, Tools & Materials Spare Parts Tools & Gadgets Cabin Comfort Ventilation Footwear Apparel Foul Weather Gear Mailport & PS Advisor Inside Practical Sailor Blog Activate My Web Access Reset Password Customer Service Free Newsletter Beneteau 311, Catalina 310 and Hunter 326 Used Boat Comparison Maine Cat 41 Used Boat Review Cheoy Lee Clipper 36 & 42 Used Boat Review Aluminum Cruisers: The Basics for First-Time Buyers Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors Thinking Through a Solar Power Installation How Does the Gulf Stream Influence our Weather? Stopping Mainsheet Twist Working with High-Tech Ropes Getting a Clue for the Blown-Out Clew Monel Seizing Wire is Worth the Extra Cost Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair Ensuring Safe Shorepower Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box The Rain Catcher’s Guide Mastering Precision Drilling: How to Use Drill Guides Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye Windlass Replacement on an Island Packet 40 Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor Those Extras you Don’t Need But Love to Have UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype? Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing How to Select Crew for a Passage or Delivery Preparing A Boat to Sail Solo On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working… On Watch: America’s Cup On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing Dear Readers Chafe Protection for Dock Lines Sailboat Reviews This 1970’s-era racer cruiser was available in standard full-cabin and One Design expanded cockpit versions. In their time, both were competitive in club racing. Today, the Pearson 26 is a good family boat at an affordable price. When Bill Shaw in 1970 drew the lines for the Pearson 26, Pearson Yachts had been in business for 14 years, but had undergone several management changes. It had a broad product line but, in Shaw’s words, “needed a shot in the arm.” Following introduction of the Pearson 26, sales occurred so quickly that the company was forced to start a second production line. History Pearson yachts was formed in 1956 by the Pearson cousins, Clinton and Everett, and Fred Heald. The trio set up shop in rented space in the basement of a textile plant in Bristol, Rhode Island, where they built six different dinghies designed for club racing. They introduced the Carl Alberg-designed Pearson Triton at the New York Boat Show in 1959; 17 Tritons were sold and more orders poured in. The company found itself in the center ring of the boatbuilding circus. The company operated so successfully during the merger mania of the 60’s that it was purchased by Grumman Industries. However, like most entrepreneurial types, it didn’t take long for the two Pearsons to chafe at the corporate yoke; Clint was the first to depart in 1964, to form a company that eventually became Bristol Yachts. Everett departed in 1966 and later joined Neil Tillotson in a joint venture that resulted in the formation of Tillotson-Pearson Industries, the firm that today manufactures everything from J-Boats to blades for wind generators and hot tubs, using the SCRIMP resin infusion process. After cutting his teeth at Sparkman & Stephens, Bill Shaw arrived in 1966 to assume the duties of chief in-house designer, and later as general manager. Among the business tenets he brought to the company was the S & S philosophy that conservative construction techniques prevent failures. “We calculated loads and designed rigs with a safety factor of three; attachments were designed with a safety factor of four. It might sound like overkill, but we never knew the exact loads a boat would experience,” he recalled. During his tenure, the company developed a product line that included a dozen boats ranging in size from 23′ to 53′. At one time, it had nine production lines running in Rhode Island, Texas and Florida, and was selling 300-400 boats a year that generated $22-$25 million in sales. Shaw remained with Pearson Yachts through the time Gordon Clayton bought the company from Grumman and until it closed its doors in 1990. Design Shaw’s first boats at Pearson were the 30-foot Coaster and Wanderer, which were introduced in 1966. He followed with five other boats before introducing the Pearson 26. Most of his designs reflected the industry trend away from the CCA rule; Shaw’s boats typically had longer waterlines and were beamier than their predecessors, with more spacious accommodations for families. They also displayed a turn of speed. “The Alberg design and Tritons had run their course,” Shaw said of the genesis of the P 26. “We needed something new.” The Renegade, a 27-footer he had introduced in 1996, had what was then a revolutionary underbody—separation of the rudder from the keel. The Renegade had a spade rudde, and what was then considered a fin keel, though in today’s vernacular it could be described as having a large cruising fin or a cutaway forefoot. “So I designed the underbody of the 26,” he said, “with the same type of rudder, but a swept back keel,” that is entirely different than the Renegade. The keel of the P 26 fits today’s profile of a fin; both fore and trailing edges are swept aft and hang from the hull free of other appendages. “The other design target was price,” he said. As a consequence, the first P 26 was introduced with a sticker price of $5,200, $1,000 less than its prime competitor, the Columbia 26. Dealers and consumers liked the new boat; 100 were sold immediately and the company was soon running two production lines for the P 26 alone. “It was a lifesaver,” Shaw admitted. When viewed from the bow or stern, or seen in photos taken from a helicopter, the boat presents a pleasing profile. She has a relatively fine entry, generous but not ungainly beam, and a moderately narrow stern. Viewed from abeam, however, the high cabintop, which has two levels, is distracting, despite a pleasing shear line and moderate bow overhang. Aesthetics aside, though the high cabintop produces a rather generous 5′ 8″ of headroom below, many owners complain that it impairs visibility forward when seated. Though a valid complaint, in our experience we’ve found that a tiller extension and sitting on the cockpit coaming does much to alleviate that problem. The Pearson 26 One Design (OD), which has an identical hull and underbody, has a much more conventional and pleasing profile. Except for the difference in windage, the boats are nearly twins; the significant difference is that at 8′ 11″ the cockpit of the 26 OD is 2′ longer then the P 26, with a corresponding reduction in space belowdecks and less headroom. The 26 OD is also 200 lbs. lighter. Compared to most Pearson models, the P 26 has a rather high aspect ratio mainsail that sails well with a 150% genoa in 16-18 knots of breeze, without reefing the main. It carries 321 sq. ft. of sail under a 100% working jib, with a mast that is 31′ 6″ above the deck, and a 10′-long boom that is high enough above the cockpit to clear the heads of most crew when changing course. The D/L ratio is a rather moderate 228, and the SA/D ratio is 17.1, which places it in the performance category when compared to most boats of the same vintage. Many owners told PS that the P 26 holds its own in fleets of 30-foot boats. Construction Like every boat produced by Pearson during the 1970’s, construction of the P 26 was fairly straightforward. Solid fiberglass hulls were laid up by hand using alternating layers of mat and roving. Decks were cored with end-grain balsa. Interiors in the P 26 were “reinforced fiberglass interior units” (a pan) that included V-berth, settees, compartments for the hanging locker and head, and countertops port and starboard below the companionway. Shaw pointed out that interior cabinetry and shelving was designed to fit into pre-molded areas with high tolerances so as to avoid extensive carpentry. “The shelves on the hull in the forward compartment don’t run all the way to the bow, or aft to the bulkhead. All the carpenters had to do for proper installation was fit screws into predrilled holes,” he said. Stainless steel chainplates were secured with four stainless steel bolts to fiberglass sections molded into the interior of the hull. The main bulkhead was made of plywood with a wood grain facing that was tabbed to the hull using alternating layers of mat and roving that overlapped each seam by 3″. Shaw pointed out that “the outer three inches of the bulkhead were milled until bare wood was exposed so we would have a good bond.” He is unaware of any failures. The hull-deck joint is criticized because of leaks on many boats, which Shaw attributes to two conditions. “The joint was an inward flange on hull and deck, which we bonded with glass and then covered with a vinyl rail. However, the failure was not in our construction method but in the adhesives available at that time. We used silicone in the joint and it eventually failed.” A second contributor was the pool used to test boats before they were shipped. Under normal circumstances, boats were dropped into a 50′ x 80′ pond, an inspector was placed belowdecks, and overhead sprinklers doused boats while the inspector searched for leaks. “When the temperature in the shed fell below 15 degrees,” he said. “the water crystals would freeze so we had no indication of leaks until the boats were delivered to warmer climates.” Many owners comment on the failure of the rudder bearing, which Shaw attributes primarily to the effect of long-term use or silt. “Nylon bearings were placed at both ends of the rudder tube. Under continuous heavy use, or in areas where there is silt in the water, they will eventually fail and require replacement,” he said. Owners say they need frequent replacement. The P 26 has an external iron keel fitted into a recess in the hull where it is secured by four keel bolts. A comment among owners is that cracks caused by movement of the keel will appear at the junction of hull and keel. A cosmetic blemish, the crack is not indicative of a structural weakness, though inspection of keel bolts on any aging vessel should be done at regular intervals. Another common complaint is that the iron keel was not properly prepped and is susceptible to rust. The anodized aluminum mast on both models is stepped on the deck and supported by an athwartships beam located forward of the cabin bulkhead. Because it is in close proximity to the hatch over the V-berth, it should be inspected annually. Water may invade the area and cause delamination of it. Also check both ends of the compression post. The boat has adequate light for a 26-footer. Both models have two large, fixed ports in the main salon, and two smaller fixed ports in the forward sleeping compartment. Reading lights were installed in the main cabin and forward. Interior One of Shaw’s goals in the design of the boat was to create four berths large enough for average sized adults, and he succeeded with the P 26. The V-berth forward is enclosed by solid sliding doors, measures 6′ 5″ on the centerline, and is adequate for two adults or three children. In the main cabin, a 7′ settee to starboard converts to a berth; the dinette table, which is marginally large enough as a dining table for a couple and two children, converts to a 6′ berth. The enclosed water closet is located between the two cabins; a hanging locker is opposite the head. The galley has a sink located aft to port and a pressurized alcohol stove, which would be among the first items we would replace on any boat. Alcohol, once touted as the safest stove fuel, has a light blue flame that is difficult to see. And attempts to put out alcohol fires with water usually result in just pushing the flame around, rather than extinguishing it. These problems, however, are most common with pressurized stoves. The Origo non-pressurized stoves, often seen as retrofits, are much easier to fill and safer to operate. A small ice chest is located below the companionway step. The 26 OD has smaller accommodations and fewer creature comforts unless they were added as options. It has the same V-berth forward. A portable toilet was optional. Little privacy is afforded by curtains enclosing the head and forward berth. Because the cockpit is 2′ longer than the P 26, the cabin is proportionately shorter, so the average 6-footer sleeping on berths amidships will be cramped. If an optional two-burner stove and sink were installed to port on the bulkhead, the port berth will be of little use except as a seating area. Storage in both models is below the V-berth and settees. Shelves run along both sides of the hull in the bow and main cabin. A small cavity in the bow serves as a storage area for an anchor rode. A 22-gallon water tank is located beneath the V-berth in the P 26. Overall, the combination of the boat’s 8′ 8-1/2″ beam and 5′ 8″ headroom combine to create a reasonably comfortable 26-footer. Deck Layout The deck layout on both models is uncomplicated and clean. The self-bailing cockpit of the P 26 comfortably seats four adults; the OD is large enough for six. Because the tiller extends forward of the standard Lewmar #7 jib winches, most crews will trim sails from a position aft of the helmsman. Molded fiberglass lips running athwartships atop the coachroof and on the deck just forward of the cockpit deflect water overboard, a nice touch that’s uncommon on boats of this vintage. To accommodate the jib sheet leads, a short section of T-track is located outboard on the toerail. The mainsheet is an end-boom arrangement that terminates at the stern, so it is also easily controlled by the jib trimmer. The boat is easy to doublehand, even when flying a spinnaker. Main and jib halyards are 7 x 19 wire with Dacron tails led to cleats on the mast. Because of the stepped cabintop, it will be difficult to lead halyards aft to sheet stoppers; considering the short distance to the mast, we consider that a minor shortcoming. Though this is a small boat, we’d still opt for roller furling. Lazarettes on both sides of the cockpit provide storage for sails and gear. Auxiliary For auxiliary power, Pearson recommended an outboard in the 6- to 10-hp. range. Most owners surveyed have 8- or 10-hp. motors, and claim speeds of 5-6 knots. Because of the height of the transom, a long-shaft outboard will be most efficient and quiet. Cavitation is a risk with a short-shaft motor. On the 26 OD, the port lazarette is designated for a fuel tank; a 5-gallon fuel tank fits securely beneath the starboard seat on the P 26. Performance We sailed the P 26 in the blustery northwesterlies that predominate on San Francisco Bay during summer months, and in the same conditions in the Pacific Ocean outside the Golden Gate. We found her performance equal to or better than that of similarly sized boats. She’ll hold her own against the Cal 27s, Catalina 27s and Ericson 27s of the same generation. She sails well to weather, tacks through 90° of apparent wind, and is stable downwind, though we were unable to test her flying a spinnaker. The P 26 is also relatively dry when pounding to weather in the short, 2- to 4-foot chop encountered on the bay, and handles ocean swells without hobbyhorsing. As a safety precaution, we sailed with hatchboards in place when sailing downwind in the ocean. Conclusion Though nearly 30 years old, Shaw’s design of this daysailer/cruiser still has tremendous appeal, especially compared to the cost of new boats of the same size. She affords couples with children adequate space in the cockpit and below decks to sail or overnight in relative comfort. She is still competitive in racing fleets, though the 26 OD will have more appeal to racers, despite the tradeoffs in creature comforts. She’s well built, but will require maintenance of the hull-deck joint and the rudder bearings. Also check the keel bolts, and the iron keel for signs of corrosion. Aesthetically, owner criticism of the high crown of her cabin is legitimate, but it’s a visual impediment easily overcome by the addition of a tiller extension. The boat rides easily at anchor, and with the forward hatch propped open it is well ventilated. Because 1,777 traditional 26s were built, compared to 262 ODs, the former will be easier to find on the used market. Most ODs were placed in racing fleets along the East Coast. Potential buyers should be able to find a well-maintained P 26 for $6,000-$8,000—an excellent value. RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR Great article! The Austin Yacht Club on Lake Travis, Texas has a growing fleet of Pearson 26s and 26ODs. We now have nineteen boats and race regularly with ten boats on the line. These are the last of the 70s “Racer/Cruisers” and are very family friendly. You can cruise overnight with the family on Saturday and race on Sunday. They were so well built. We had one made in 1971 racing and cruising. As the P 26 cockpit is clearly hard white fiberglass, sitting on a square, throw life cushion is desirable. If healing at all, this allows fine visibility over the cabin top. If sailing flat or motoring, I simply stack two cushions and enjoy the view. No problem and a comfortable sit. My hull is 1972, #176? I will have to look it up. Very helpful article. I relied on this and other similar articles before purchasing mine. I have a 26 OD, Hull No. 1. It’s tender but stable once you hit about 20 degrees of heel. I haven’t sailed it in winds over 35mph, but even at that speed, it felt safe. In the choppy (2-5′) Delaware Bay, it stays dry. The original alcohol stove probably needs replacing, but having used similar ones with the Boy Scouts, I’m content for now. I’m 6’3″, which makes the shorter cabin top a painful inside experience. I don’t see the point in making it shorter than the regular P26, because you still have to kneel or stand to see over the top. But I fit in the quarter berths on each side (one is about 6’5″ and the other 7′ plus) and I fit and share the v-berth with my girlfriend and dog. A hammock fits nicely between the mast and forestay. GREAT INFO. I just purchased a 1976, hull # 1281. She appears to begin very good condition for that age but needs a pressure clean. Your review has given me EXCELLANT knowledge and advice. LEAVE A REPLY Cancel reply Log in to leave a comment Latest Videos The Boat From True Spirit – Sparkman & Stephens Top 5 Boat Hacks – Boat Maintenance Tips and Tricks Pearson 30 Sailboat Review How To Change Your Sailboat Engine Mounts Latest sailboat review. Privacy Policy Do Not Sell My Personal Information Online Account Activation Privacy Manager Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. Sign in to save them permanently, access them on any device, and receive relevant alerts. Sailboat Guide 1969 30' Pearson Coaster Description Seller's Description Located in Hampton Virginia, right on the Chesapeake Bay, this classic sailing vessel is currently being sailed weekly and has many recent upgrades. It is a very seaworthy and comfortable boat that can be singlehanded or take a full boat of passengers for a comfortable day on the water. All running rigging is in good order and updated in July 2020 and jib has a Harken roller furler. Two new 105AH house batteries, and new LED navigation lights. Atomic 4 gasoline engine is fresh water cooled and has been overhauled with new electronic ignition, coil, distributor, plugs and wires (July 2020). 20 gallon Monel aluminum gas tank polished and fuel pump serviced and a new Carburetor and custom designed 3 blade propeller was installed in Sept 2020. New blower motor and the dripless PSS shaft seal was serviced and reseated recently. New ICOM M330G VHF radio with DSC and GPS. New SPXFlow Johnson marine head and new electric water pump and faucet in galley sink (July 2020). There is ample galley storage, a deep icebox and a marine fridge with both AC and 12v power. Dodger, Bimini and Sail Cover all recently repaired and new zippers installed. Bottom scraped most recently last month and bottom paint is in serviceable shape. Two unopened gallons of Interlux Micron for the next haul out. Rig and Sails Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations. The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more. Classic hull speed formula: Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL Sail Area / Displacement Ratio A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more. SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3 SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay). D : Displacement in pounds. Ballast / Displacement Ratio A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize. Ballast / Displacement * 100 Displacement / Length Ratio A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more. D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³ D: Displacement of the boat in pounds. LWL: Waterline length in feet Comfort Ratio This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more. Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 ) D: Displacement of the boat in pounds LOA: Length overall in feet Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet Capsize Screening Formula This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more. CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64) Also available with a yawl rig. A daysailer version called the GYPSY 30 was advertised but it is unknown if any were actually built. This listing is presented by SailboatListings.com . Visit their website for more information or to contact the seller. View on SailboatListings.com Embed this page on your own website by copying and pasting this code. About Sailboat Guide ©2024 Sea Time Tech, LLC This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. Forum Listing Marketplace Advanced Search About The Boat Boat Builders Row SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more! 30' Pearson Coaster for sale Add to quote I have a 30' Pearson Sailboat for sale. It was built in 1967 Bristol, Rhode Island. Hull #9. Still have the original hull and deck plan drawings. Has a rebuilt atomic 4 inboard with moyer ignition, water pump and electrical fuel pump. New batteries in March 2010. Has a high output alternator too, which was rebuilt in 2010. The model is a pearson "coaster" it draws 4'7 and has a modified full keel with internal lead ballast. I've owned it for 4 years and its been hauled and bottom painted every winter. Its an old boat but the hull is solid fiberglass. super thick, no core, no rot. The boat has never had a blister in its life. Interior is nice. The boat is ready to be cruised. I spend about a month per year on the boat, cruising the bay and to Morehead City, Wrightsville... Freshwater tank is in good shape but the plumbing needs work. Sails are in good shape, so is the rigging and running lines. Comes with a spinnaker which I have never used, but seems to be in good shape. 130% Genoa with Harken Roller Furling. Deck could use new paint but is solid and does not have any soft spots. The paint is flaking off in some spots. The non-skid is holding up though. Hull was re-painted by a yard when I bought it, and looks good. Comes with some cruising extras like a 35lb CQR anchor. And a working 1990's raytheon radar, which is not installed. It does work though, I had it on the boat for awhile but took it off because the old radar set looked kinda goofy. Willing to deliver. Located on the Chesapeake Bay. email [email protected] if interested! Thanks   Asking price? Photos? Thanks.   ?             175.9K members Top Contributors this Month 464 IMAGES Pearson Coaster 30 COASTER 30 (PEARSON): Reviews, Specifications, Built, Engine Coaster 30 pearson 1967 Pearson Coaster 30 1967 Pearson Coaster 30 1969 30' Pearson Coaster COMMENTS Pearson 30 The Pearson 30 has a well-proportioned masthead rig. The mainsail comprises 44% of the working sail area, more than is found on many modern "racercruisers," but a reasonable proportion for a true multi-purpose boat. Base price in 1971 was $11,750. By November 1979, base price had jumped to $28,300. COASTER 30 (PEARSON) It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5 Pearson 30 Coaster = Vs. = Vanguard / Alberg The Coaster was designed to the MORC Rating rule of the day, which produced reasonably wholesome boats in terms of moderately longer water lines than was the trend for that era and more efficient underbodies and higher ballast ratios than was typical for the more popular CCA rating rule derived designs such as the Alberg 30 or Pearson Vanguard. Pearson 30 Introduced in the wake of two successful Pearson racer-cruiser classics-the Triton and the Alberg 35-the P-30 was designed to accelerate in light winds for exhilarating around-the-buoys racing and to get cruisers comfortably to their destination at just over 6 knots. Built to last, the P-30 holds wide appeal among both coastal cruisers and racers. COASTER 30 (PEARSON) Detailed Review If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of COASTER 30 (PEARSON). Built by Pearson Yachts and designed by William Shaw, the boat was first built in 1966. It has a hull type of Fin Keel and LOA is 9.14. Its sail area/displacement ratio 15.07. Still searching-What about the Pearson coaster 30 Re: Still searching-What about the Pearson coaster 30. you need to sail em before ye think about ruling boats out.. each marque has a different bunch of characteristics not written in reviews. clipper marine looked good in reviews, until uscg labelled them most unsafe boat in any body of water ..... it is fun to look for boats when it is done ... Pearson Coaster 30 Pearson Coaster 30 is a 29′ 11″ / 9.1 m monohull sailboat designed by William Shaw and built by Pearson Yachts between 1966 and 1970. ... The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more. Formula. D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³ D: Displacement of the boat in pounds ... Pearson 30 Used Boat Review Generally the Pearson 30 is constructed to good boat building standards and holds up well when properly cared for. The only consistently reoccurring problem noted with a majority of Pearson 30s is sloppy rudders that result from Pearson's use of Delrin bushings in a fiberglass rudder post tube. Worn bushings are easily replaced without ... Review of Coaster 30 Review of Coaster 30. Basic specs. The Coaster 30 is a sailboat designed by the American maritime architect William H. Shaw in the mid sixties. The Coaster 30 is built by the American yard Pearson Yachts. Here we would have liked to show you nice photos of the Coaster 30. Pearson 30 Further, the Pearson 30 is tangible evidence of Bill Shaw's contention that a fast boat can be beautiful. Step aboard and study the clean, uncluttered lines and wide walkways. From the helm the visibility is excellent. Her 7'6" cockpit provides room for the whole family with cockpit stowage provided in a lazarette aft and a roomy sail locker to ... Pearson 30 The Pearson 30 is a 29.79ft masthead sloop designed by William Shaw and built in fiberglass by Pearson Yachts between 1971 and 1981. 1000 units have been built. The Pearson 30 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. Pearson vs Newport vs Ericson vs Catalina 30 The Pearson is going to sail the best. The Newport is in between. The Newport interior will be the nicest (teak and holly sole, real teak cabinets, leaded glass lockers, etc. A little additional info. I used to own a Newport 28. The Newport 30 is very close. I have sailed on a number of Catalina 30's. Pearson 30 1,549. Hunter 27_75-84 Sandusky Harbor Marina, Ohio. Nov 21, 2021. #7. The Pearson 30 design is good for blue water cruising. Certainly, equipment and mods would be needed to make it ready. I would go see the boat for sale. If you like the looks and interior and a survey is OK, this would be a good boat to start with. Pearson 30 vs Cal 29 (more info in the comments) : r/sailing I am not familiar with the Cal 29 but I currently Owen a Pearson 30 and can give some feedback on that boat. It's a fantastic boat for many reasons, but it is a coaster racer/cruiser and I absolutely would not take it offshore. While the encapsulated keel is a huge benefit, the rudder is vulnerable and unprotected. Pearson Coaster and Wanderer A small solar panel on the transom keeps the batteries charged. 3,000 negotiable includes mooring in Manhattan (no small deal) and possible dingy with 5 hp mercury. The Wanderer has a fantastic bottom, anti-fowling bottom paint and not a single blemish. Pulpit and windlass are great. 7 sails compliment her inventory. PEARSON 30 It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5 Pearson 30 Pearson 30 is a 29′ 9″ / 9.1 m monohull sailboat designed by William Shaw and built by Pearson Yachts between 1971 and 1981. ... Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay). D: ... Pearson 30 Coaster = Vs. = Vanguard / Alberg The Coaster was designed to the MORC Rating rule of the day, which produced reasonably wholesome boats in terms of moderately longer water lines than was the trend for that era and more efficient underbodies and higher ballast ratios than was typical for the more popular CCA rating rule derived designs such as the Alberg 30 or Pearson Vanguard ... Is a Pearson P-30 a Good Safe Boat for Open Ocean ? Pearson's in general are well made boats.Whether it is suitable to sail to Argentina would also require that the boat is properly prepared and since it is a bit old, rigging, sails and other essential parts checked out and repaired or replaced as necessary. The Atomic 4 is a pretty good engine for boats but it is gasoline. Gas is safer in cars but in boats the fumes can collect in the bilge ... Pearson 30? Good buys! Any others The P30 is an excellent 'sailing' boat, much better sailing characteristics than a Cat30 or T30. However for long distance cruising and island hopping you may find the P30 hull a bit too 'floppy'. A P30 hull can be stiffened by the addition of internal 'stringers' that parallel the boats center line. Pearson 26 Shaw's first boats at Pearson were the 30-foot Coaster and Wanderer, which were introduced in 1966. ... Like every boat produced by Pearson during the 1970's, construction of the P 26 was fairly straightforward. ... Latest Sailboat Review. Sailboat Reviews. Beneteau 311, Catalina 310 and Hunter 326 Used Boat Comparison. August 7, 2024. 1969 30' Pearson Coaster This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat's hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat's motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more. Formula. Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33) D: Displacement of the boat in pounds; LWL: Waterline length in feet; LOA: Length ... 30' Pearson Coaster for sale 30' Pearson Coaster for sale. I have a 30' Pearson Sailboat for sale. It was built in 1967 Bristol, Rhode Island. Hull #9. Still have the original hull and deck plan drawings. Has a rebuilt atomic 4 inboard with moyer ignition, water pump and electrical fuel pump. New batteries in March 2010. Has a high output alternator too, which was rebuilt ... catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran